(Part 2) Best products from r/smarthome

I solved this exact problem recently. Sadly my solution wasn't cheap, but it works really nicely (better than I expected tbh).

My needs:

• Ceiling light with dimmer
  
• Fan, adjustable
  
• Switch on wall to control dimmer, fan speeds and lights on/off
  
• Alexa integration
  
• Zero delay between using the wall switch and the fan reacting
  
  
  
  I couldn't find anything that used zeewave / zigbee, so I set up a parallel Insteon system. It was expensive, but it's way better than I had hoped. It's all immediate, the buttons have a nicer feel, aesthetics are nice etc. Hardware required was:
  
  
• https://www.insteon.com/ceiling-fan-controller (~$80)
  
• https://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2245-222-hub.html (~$80)
  
• https://www.smarthome.com/2334-232-alt (~$80)
  
• Nicer keypad buttons - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007S0CAMQ ($10)
  
  Discounts can be found on all of those, perhaps ebay etc, ymmv.
  
  ​
  
  If you go this route then here's some tips that I wish someone told me:
  
  
• The insteon keypad scene buttons default to being in toggle mode - you need to change this to always on (or always off, doesn't actually matter)
  
• The hot wire in the wall is connected to the keypad *and* the wire up to the fan controller (i.e. not in serial). The load of the keypad is just capped off. This means that the fan controller and the switch are always on. If you end up here please DM me to clarify if that doesn't make sense.
  
  ​
  
  I'd love to hear your solution once you figure it out - hopefully you can beat me on price.

It actually depends on what brand and model you get. As he mentioned, the essentials are lights, speakers and blind controls. Although my own version would be: Automated house lights, appliances you use (Coffeemaker, humidifier, smart oil diffuser, heater, fan, AC) which is a huge plus and maybe whole house speakers but if you don't have many speakers like Sonos or don't care for speakers you can also go for security for your house. I'm not sure you can get very good lights or so for that price range and have a hub or smart switch to go along with it so I'll recommend you things I own and find that are within your price range.

Smart plugs $30 for 4 plugs on Amazon they are very small and impressive and work with Google and Alexa along with IFTTT. Want cheaper? Try the same ones but it's one for $8 Here.

Or two sets of smart lights Here for $24. It also works with Google and Alex along with IFTTT. Most smart plugs will be used here. You can make many of your appliances "smart" with a simple plug. I, in fact, was watching this video right now about smart home gadgets by Rick Buck on YouTube. Very very informational about smart home appliances and definitely tells you a lot about smart plugs and how to use them

You should never entrust your outdoor security to a device that's network accessible. You can easily with no monthly costs, but just don't.

If you want an outdoor lock that is quick & easy and better than your standard keylock, go with these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NJJ1N0

I've been using two of them for years. Just recently bought an indoor version as well.

The Ring Doorbell (which is one of the best imo) requires a subscription for recording. You can use it for free for live view only. If you want to use it for security, you will need the subscription at ~30$/year. The Ring will still show you who's at the door for free via a phone push if you answer it before they leave.

What I did was the light an intense fire in the fireplace and to place something where the TV would be for a while and to test if it would get warm. In my case, it did not get warm, so i knew i was good to go. It helps that there is a 6 inches space between the fireplace and the TV (since it hangs from the ceiling).

I am using a 75'' TV and it is very sturdy. one could hide the electric plug behind the mount, but i didn't have enough space inside the wall to do that. Also, I wanted a code compliant solution, so that is why I didn't do anything weird with the electric cable.

I used this mount:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FIUPKC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this HDMI cables:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WINWLAY/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't know if you can tell by the picture, but the fireplace has two sides (it is in the middle of the living room, which is quite nice, but it means it doesn't have any outside walls, so passing the wires through the ceiling was the only option that would look nice.

It was quite a bit of work to get the wires through, since the beans were not aligned to my benefit, so we had to have many holes on the ceiling and patch that. The results are very good though and I am glad we did it.

You can consider the following aspects: I recommend the Meross brand, because I have been using their products, I hope to help you:

1. smart wall switch: they can make the home lights or ceiling fan smart
   
2. smart bulbs: smart bulbs with adjustable color and color temperature, they will make your room full of changes and surprises.
   
3. smart plug:can be used for some small appliances
   
4. smart socket:this is a must-have for home
   
5. smart converter switch If your hands-on ability is relatively strong, then the smart converter switch is a cheaper option, you can install a switch for the appliance and make them smart
   
   ​

Virtually all smart switches require a neutral (typically a white wire). Some dimmers only require 3 connections (live, load, and ground).

Smart bulbs are the easiest solution, but the most expensive (and annoying) in the long term (if the switch is off you can't control the light from other devices)

For using smart switches running an additional wire from the switch box to the neutral bus in the breaker box is an option but is usually the most labor intensive option. For other options you need to identify how the switches were wired. There are 3 common ways:

1. Best case: there are 2 sets of wires in the switch box, and 1 set of wires in the load box. This requires no new wiring you can simply install the smart switch
   
2. This are 2 black wires in the switch box (and possibly ground wire(s)), and 1 set of wires in the load box. In this case the builder likely cut the black wire and ran it into the box and the neutral is uncut behind the switch box. In this case you can remove the box cut the remaining wires and run all the wires into the box.
   
3. There is 1 full set of wires (black, white, and ground) in the switch box and 2 sets of wires in the load box, there are 2 options here, 1. rerun the wires between the switch and load boxes with 3 conductor wire (black, red, white, and ground) black as live, red as load, white as neutral, or 2. use a micro switch like: https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC18103-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B008VWAPU4/ in the load box.
   
   Hopefully that helps.

You want this: Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AgVADbSZ5ATQG

Then get a 240v 2 phase plug and a socket. Wire the smart switch up to the two. So you have plug - switch - socket.

Then you plug your air compressor to this new thing you just made and the new thing to the wall.

You will need a hub to control it.

Bonus you also get current and electricity usage for free :)

> Do you realize how expensive and complicated a system like that would be?

Like $10 at cost and not very complicated?

> How would it recharge while the water is running?

The water would power a hydroelectric generator that would recharge the battery.

> Do you think they have mini hydroelectric plants that can fit in a showerhead?

Yes. They literally do.

> lol

https://www.amazon.com/Hyquadio-Hydro-Powered-Bluetooth-Speaker-Waterproof/dp/B07P9LH1XL

lol

TP-Link’s kasa line seems rock solid in my apartment— many switches and plugs etc. HS105 is a simple smart plug (no energy monitoring) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B8W2KHZ/

Anyway there are reasons why you may not want all wifi devices. When I recently did a house, I went for Lutron Caesta for many reasons, which is hub based.

BTW— I think SmartThings is great, but really doesn’t sound like what you need... it would complicate your setup needlessly.

Lastly, an Echo Plus or equiv. has a ZigBee hub inside, otherwise, you may be hard pressed to support your current smart plug.

Already good comments here, but TBF the best remote things are outlets and wall switches. That way if/when you hit a switch to turn something off the 'old' way it will still respond if you want it on.

Also, you need a hub. Smartthings or Wink.
The rest are worthless (Hue hub and all the other hubs). IMO Philips Hue is lame. If you want colored bulbs go get Sylvania lightify (cheaper, less crap in your house since it doesn't need its own hub).

Ideal starter setup would be an echo dot $50, a hub $100, two wall switches ($30ea) (for unswitched outlets) and a couple wall paddle switches ($30ea). That much hardware would set you back about $270, but would add a fair bit of fun and convenience.

I got 3 gang plates with 1 or 2 smart switches each. I'm sure there are 4 gangs out there as well.

3 gang, 2 smart switches: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075MQ7LPN (previously I bought the leviton, but it was too cheap and it cracked)

3 gang, 1 smart switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015APNOC/

Hope that gives you a starting point to search from.

You still need to do your due diligence and ensure you know which wire is doing what. Never, ever assume you know what wire's what, especially if you're doing work in an older home.

If you're still interested in the DIY portion, please consider picking up a cheap textbook like this for $6, which is a good starting point for your electrical basics: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1590708954/

When you say a "bank of lights" do you mean an AC circuit? Or is this entirely a DC circuit?

I ask because, looking at the specs, the HS220 is for AC, 100-120 volts. This switch should be fine for a whole house full of LED lights, as long as they are on the same AC circuit. I have 5 different dimmable AC light circuits in my house. I use Lutron for my dimmer switches, but the results should be the same.


If your bank of lights is DC.. then you're going to need a transformer and a dedicated DC LED switch like https://www.amazon.com/Slide-Dimmer-Switch-Wall-Plate/dp/B00FAAPHQW


NOTE:

Often times circuits of LED lights don't generate enough load to kick in the resistance of "LED Dimmable" switches.
This can result in the behavior you are describing. But the solution is actually to put more lights in the circuit, not less. Or switch one of the lights out for an incandescent.

Here is an overview of that issue: https://insights.regencylighting.com/can-you-stop-led-flickering-with-a-dummy-load-or-load-resistor

You probably won't find a 2 gang switch so I would get one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1-Decora-Combination-Wallplate-Standard/dp/B000U3DZ7W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526928533&sr=8-1&keywords=2+gang+wall+plate+1+blank+1+gfci+black

If you are just planning on doing a couple small smart things in your house like switches, you probably don't need a hub and can run it all through Google Home or Alexa. If you want to automate everything possible then yes, you will want a hub. I suggest laying out a game plan of everything you want to do to make sure everything will work together in the end.

This is interesting, and good information to know, but now I have some follow up questions.

• Do you have a link to the pull chain with with the outlets? Also how hard is it to re-wire one? I've re-weird like 30+ outlets and switches.
  
  
  
• According to law the dumb switch light bulb has to stay dumb? But if I have the (smart) LED light plugged into the new fixture, it can be smart?
  
  
  
• So you made the outlet smart with something like THIS?
  
  
  
  
• Another question, I have a 3 way switch that controls the light bulb on my stairs leading into the basement and a setup that you just talked about (pull chain with fluorescent light). Can I switch out one of the 3 way switches with a Smart 3 way switch? Pull the pull chain to "off" and just let the new smart switch control the Stairs light, and the fluorescent light?
  
  
  
• One more thing, what LED shop lights did you go with?

Another possible solution is use the smart doorbell to communicate with the person and tell them the code that they can enter to let themselves in. With the Schlage (and probably most others) you can set up multiple codes as well as remove and add new ones with little effort.

BTW, nest just announced a smartdoor bell too.



* Disclaimer, I also have two of the Schlages and love them.

Ok. Maybe smarter to make the switch smart rather than the light bulbs. Do you have a separate switch on the wall that turns the light on/off today? Or is it one switch for both fan and light? I'll assume you do have a separate switch:

TP-Link dimmer if you don't have a controller.
GE Dimmer if you do.

If you don't have a separate switch, I have a different idea.

Yeah, your thinking of it wrong. Just get a switch like a Kasa dimmer wall switch. That will give you voice control for on/off and dimmer to different percentage amounts. I use both, but in diff places in the house. They aren’t the cheapest, but sure works great when your wife wants the two dinning room chandeliers each with 8 candle bulbs to be able to dim.

On sale for $34.99 now.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-HS220-Dimmer-Switch-1-Pack/dp/B079775ZZQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=kasa+dimmer+switch&qid=1568226846&s=gateway&sprefix=kasa+dimmer+&sr=8-3

I've got the exact same switch.... Having done the same research as you, the simple answer is, there isn't a device that will duplicate that.

The closest solution I have come up with is to put 2 of these in the ceiling fan https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Wave-Micro-Dimmer-2nd/dp/B00IRI1CEK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482251383&sr=8-1&keywords=z+wave+micro+switch. One to control the light and one to control the fan. Unfortunatly, you will lose control of the switch (other than on/off) at the physical switch itself. You would be able to both the light and fan on/off, but not just the light or the fan, you would need to use a smart device to do that.

It is definitely possible - you need to use a 3-way or 4-way switch.

You can DIY with an ESP8266 + mains relay. This video gives an example of how to do it and explains how the circuit works as well- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=42qmD6RPiF0

If you want a commercial product search for "3 way wifi switch" or similar on Google and find things like this (not an endorsement, just the first result) - https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Wi-Fi-Light-Switch-TP-Link/dp/B07724HNTX

It can, but you'd need something like this. I use one of these for my zwave devices, and I'll eventually put my zigbee bulbs on it as well. For any wifi devices, you should just be able to integrate over the local network. To get an idea of what's supported, check out their components page.

I’ve needed the same thing since I work from home and always thought one of those ‘ON AIR’ lights like this would be so cool: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0132AX0AQ/

You could mount it on the wall above the door and find a way to run the cable down the doorframe with some adhesive cable ties to hide the cord. Plug it in if you have an outlet near the door, otherwise run it under the door and power it in your office, then use a cheap Alexa-enabled smart plug to toggle it on/off with voice.

I recommend these smart plugs as I use them in my office: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072ZX8RTZ/

I would focus more on the smart switch aspect and less on the monitoring aspect. You could get an energy monitor that is capable of observing total consumption of your home. Look at Sense or Aeotec, they both have products for that. I think they can both slowly begin to identify individual devices, their consumption, and alert you when they're on or if they've been on for longer than a predefined amount of time.

There's a broader range of products that are simple z-wave devices and don't focus on energy monitoring. However, 20 Amp zwave deives are a bit hard to find. Aeotec has one for up to 220v and 40amps, which may work.

Go Control has a similar product for 20 Amp 120 circuits.

>Do you think they have mini hydroelectric plants that can fit in a showerhead? lol

Yes.

https://www.amazon.com/Hyquadio-Hydro-Powered-Bluetooth-Speaker-Waterproof/dp/B07P9LH1XL

I went with a Linear HUSBZB-1. One of the top reviews there even has some helpful instructions for setting it up with Home Assistant. The controller itself seems to work fine. Unfortunately, I'm having trouble getting the brightness control of my GE dimmers working correctly. On/off and fan controls work perfectly, so I'm guessing the problem is in Home Assistant or OpenZWave. So, YMMV depending on what you use it for.

Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Lamp Dimmer Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Lamp Dimmer

It's fairly simple


Combine this https://www.home-assistant.io (if your running on a pi you probably want hass.io) with one of these and your pretty much done.

Not as a plug.

There are relay-based solutions such as:

• http://www.smarthomeusa.com/remote-controlled-heavy-duty-switch-60-amp-240vac-relay/ with a regular 120V smart plug
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496340386&sr=8-1 with a Z-Wave controller

According to the description on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-HS220-Dimmer-Switch-1-Pack/dp/B079775ZZQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1543021969&sr=8-2&keywords=TP-Link+HS220

The TP-Link HS220 does not work in a 3 way. You need to get a 3 way capable switch.

The Lutron Caseta PD-3PCL-WH meets your requirements. Works with HomeKit, Alexa and Google Assistant, and requires a Lutron smart hub.

https://smile.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-3PCL-WH-Assistant/dp/B00KHSXB60/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1540571565&sr=8-8&keywords=lutron+caseta

They also make 'double' versions of these to control two switches. I wish i'd understood more before converting the house over to GE/Jasco.

https://www.amazon.com/Vision-Z-Wave-Micro-Switch-relay/dp/B00R883YKU

Dimmer versions:

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Wave-Micro-Dimmer-2nd/dp/B00IRI1CEK/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1486063509&sr=1-3&keywords=zwave+in+wall

second 2 gang option: https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-DSC-17103/dp/B01DDQS07W/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01DDQS07W&pd_rd_r=YFHWK6KFSSQT2MNBSMT7&pd_rd_w=ahlIA&pd_rd_wg=Oo1Qn&psc=1&refRID=YFHWK6KFSSQT2MNBSMT7

Mini Smart Plug Outlet Works with Amazon Alexa Google Assistant IFTTT, No Hub Required, ETL and FCC Listed Wifi Enabled Remote Control Smart Socket by Gosund https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072ZX8RTZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zIIQBbBQTSF51

What I’ve been using for about 2 months and have not had one single connection issue. I’m very impressed. Also the cheapest one I’ve purchased. Doesn’t work with HomeKit but even being an Apple fanboy I’m not impressed by anything HomeKit related. I switch to Alexa and haven’t looked back.

Look for z wave micro switches. They wire in and fit behind the switch. Or you can enlarge the hole and retrofit a 2 gang remodel box.

Either option is similar in work and wire expertise. For the box you will just need a little slack in the wires or to use wire nuts and extend them, also you will need to cut a larger hole in the drywall. If you can handle wiring a light switch diy, then either option is doable.

The other option is smart bulbs. Hue bulbs can be controlled by a smartthings hub directly.

They sell a zigbee/zwave usb stick.

The comments say:

> Using RPi gen1, Home Assistant, and OpenZWaveControlPanel:
>
> 1) Fresh, headless raspbian
>
> 2) Home assistant all in 1 installer
>
> 3) /etc/udev/rules.d/99-usb-serial.rules:
>
> SUBSYSTEM=="tty", ATTRS{interface}=="HubZ Z-Wave Com Port", SYMLINK+="zwave"
>
> SUBSYSTEM=="tty", ATTRS{interface}=="HubZ ZigBee Com Port", SYMLINK+="zigbee"
>
> 4) /home/homeassistant/.homeassistant/configuration.yaml:
>
> zwave:
>
> usb_path: /dev/zwave
>
> zigbee:
>
> device: /dev/zigbee

Here you go!

Are you running a hub? You could use a normal bulb and go this route: http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC18103-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B008VWAPU4

How about an led with a bluetooth speaker?