(Part 3) Best products from r/vandwellers

Most of our vanventures have been in snow, winter and mountains. We have also spent a lot of time in urban areas where stealth is key.

For insulation, we went with 3m Thinsulate. It is good stuff, easy to install, and safe (health wise, i.e. breathing in the material if you were to do fiberglass).

We did use reflectix to stick in the windows (also covered with black out curtain, and a layer of Thinsulate behind, as windows will have the most heat loss/gain). Reflectix is like a white car, it reflects away the rays!

From what it sounds like you're planning on, I would do insulation. It'll help with temperature changes (especially for the pup), and noise. 20 degrees isn't too shabby, but that metal box can turn into a fridge. And sleep will make all the difference when traveling. Noise too - mountains can have nice noise, but what if you're in the city, or on the side of the road mid-travel, or only place to park is in a crowded campground? Insulation helps with the noise.

Other noteworthy items for us...

• This bed
  
  We have a custom size bed, and just cut a 3 inch foam topper which we used for a bit, but we didn't realize just how much we were missing out on until my bad back plus turning on my hips in the wood all night led us to make this purchase. It is literally a cloud and I never want to leave bed. It's foam that we just cut down to size too.
  
  
• A journal
  
  We write our favorite parts, and keep track of everywhere we take the van. From an hour from home to other states, we write down some special moments to look back on. The joys of having the van are for those new moments in new places!
  
  
• Battery powered string lights
  
  They are pretty dope for mellow evenings without the bright, real ceilings lights on.
  
  
• Wifi repeater
  
  My partner made one himself, and it is freakin awesome getting HD Netflix on a cold winter night in the parking lot at a ski resort.
  
  
• French press
  
  Because coffee.
  
  
• Electric water heater
  
  Depending on your battery/inverter capabilities, this should do the trick. We didn't need this, but it sure is nice to have this low-wattage electric water heater when we don't want to boil water outside. Camp stove = need propane (what if you run out!), have to go outside (cold? uncomfortable AND delays the water boiling! in a populated area? less stealthy to boil water on the sidewalk, don't want to look like the creeper in the van parked in front of someone's house) and usually small (water can do so many things (ramen, coffee, tea, oatmeal, etc.) so why limit to one cup at a time?) So it's really nice to have a large, fast way of heating water while being able to stay inside.
  
  
• Black out curtains
  
  Usually more energy efficient and way easier to sleep with some darkness
  
  
• Large box
  
  It's become our "junk drawer" and sits on our counter - just holds all our little doodads that we use more often.
  
  
• A fan
  
  Fresh air, cools you down, and makes sure you're getting enough oxygen in there. (We got it as a way to make sure we don't have carbon monoxide poisoning from a propane-fueled heater too!) Not hard to install either!
  
  
• Solar panels
  
  The other day, the van battery died (just got old) and so we just waited for the sun to come out so we can charge it back up!
  
  That's all I can think of right now!
  Hope that helps :)

I actually just finished going through all of this.

1. I would recommend going solar. Powering your house batteries from your alternator works, but it puts extra stress on your alternator which means you'll have more repair bills down the road.
   
   1b) I have 2 vent fans installed in my roof, and it does wonders on a hot night. Set one to blow in, and the other to blow out, and you'll get some great airflow. Humidity is another story though. Even with the two fans humidity can be rough, but at least its something.
   
   
2. As for battery usage for the fans, the ones I linked you to use about 60w, so you are going to want to make sure to buy enough deep cycle batteries to last you however long you sleep. Two 60w fans running for 8 hours is going to be about 960w. I have 4 35 amp-hour deep cycle solar batteries, which give me a total of 1620 watts to play with, so I can run my fans all night, and still have 660w left over to play with in the morning. BUT, seeing as you are looking to also have a fridge, that is going to mean more batteries depending on the kind of fridge you are thinking of using. A fridge like THIS would only use about as much as your vent fans, and would save you money on batteries. Here is a calculator that helped me out when I was trying to figure out my battery bank.
   
   
3. Charging your house batteries off of your alternator only takes about 15 minutes or less for a full charge. Solar might take a few hours, but its less stress on your van in general.
   
   ​
   
   If you are worried about solar being too expensive, it really isnt. You can get a full 100 watt solar panel kit for $118. That give you all the wiring, a panel, and a charge controller all at once. Then all you need are batteries, which you can get a set of 4 for $250. You don't need those specifically, but just make sure whatever batteries you get, you make sure they are DEEP CYCLE batteries, and not starter batteries.
   
   ​
   
   Hope this helps! If you have any other questions, feel free to ask, and I'll be glad to help. Anything to help another vandweller so they don't have to go through all the hell I did trying to figure it all out myself. lol
   
   ​
   
   ​

Here's a list and example found on amazon for all the major parts. I'll also include a wiring diagram at the end.

Solar Panel $169.99 - 100W Flexible & Thin

Solar Cable $18.99 - 20ft with male and female heads (cut in half for + & -)

[Charge Controller]
(https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019QSX0CG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) $34.99 - 30A gives you room to add more panels

Battery $160 - 100Ah AGM will provide enough power depending on fridge but requires no maintenance

Fuse Panel $35 - 6 circuits with negative and cover

12V Sockets $6 - Get some of these for plugging in appliances and phones. You can buy 12V adapters for almost any electronic besides most kitchen appliances.

Pick up some 10 gauge stranded wire from your local hardware store (home depot) to wire the battery and fuse panel to the charge controller. You shouldn't need much since you want the battery as close as possible to the controller. You can buy smaller wire (16 or 18 guage) for wiring outlets/appliances to the fuse panel. 50ft of that should be fine unless you want multiple outlets on the other side of the van.

You'll also need some ATC blade fuses for your fuse panel. You can buy these at a local auto parts store pretty cheap. 15 amps should be enough than anything you'll be pulling.

To connect the wire ends to the battery and fuse panel you will need these wire terminals for the corresponding wire guages you are using. Along with these female terminals to connect to the 12V sockets. All of these can be found at your local auto parts store for cheap sometimes all together in a kit.

You'll also want a pair of wire strippers/crimper for wiring.

This is the best wiring diagram I can find. Most are so overcomplicated. This diagram does not show the fuse panel but you can see the empty slots on the far right of the charge controller where you insert the wiring for that, it's called the "load." This diagram also shows an inverter which is something I didn't go into because you will only need that if you HAVE to run a 110V appliance. I know you mentioned a kettle but maybe you could just install a gas stove in your van and use that to heat water? That's what we use :) Installing the inverter should be pretty straight forward though if you need it but remember you will waste energy going from 12v to 110v so 12v is more efficient.

Hope this can help you (and maybe others) in some way. I plan on making a more in depth version of this guide in the near future along with a video but finding the time has been difficult! Let me know any more questions you have :D

I actually just bought their dual zone fridge for my new van..

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008VX01P2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It was expensive and more than I wanted to spend, but I plan to keep it a long time.. It is "VERY" quiet and seems very well made. I haven't used it in the van yet as I don't have my solar hooked up but I'm pretty sure I could make my money back selling ice cream sandwiches in the summer.. lol

The best part is get it on the Amazon Store card and you have a year to pay it off with zero interest.. This is what I'm doing.

A shovel and some time in the woods, and maybe a solar shower if you're in a warm climate.

Sure you could buy a Dometic 2.6 gallon chemical toilet, they're 12 inches tall, but well you'd probably have to live a little too close to it in a Prius. But reportedly they don't really smell (as they're chemical toilets - the chemical controls odor). https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-301097206-Portable-Toilet-Gallon/dp/B00194F0CE

A Prius isn't really a great living solution. Sure, it's nice as cars go with all that battery, but it's still tiny, so not going to be easy to get much creature comforts going.

Is the flooring already secured onto the metal? You reeeaaaallllyyyy need to put down a moisture barrier. Rust and mold are the van killers, and it’s way too easy for moisture to get trapped behind the paneling. Either way definitely get a dehumidifier. At the very minimum, one under the sink next to your water tanks and one by the bed area. These Are awesome, reuseable (for like. 10 years.) and good for small spaces.
Best of luck to you, safe travels!

So... as a soylent consumer (I replace 1-2 meals per day with it), I would like to warn you about the awesome fiber and poop that it has. Not a big issue if you are camping at a place with a toilet... not so idea during a rain storm in a parking lot.

Another option is to carry some canned goods given that weight isn't as much of an issue. Canned soups and the like have a similar price to calorie and for most people will taste a lot better. If you want to splurge, a tub of mountain house freeze dried food would be lighter and taste pretty good. And on the cheap side, rice and beans is simple and filling.

For stove, depending on which type of canisters you want to deal with, there are some cheap stove options such as 1 and 2

Have you seen this?

Sterling BB1230-12 Volt, 30 Amps - Pro Batt Ultra Battery to Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071DMV7PF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Xg9RCb3FA8T5T

Its able to charge LFP AGM etc, theres only 2 reviews and one is probably from the company, but it seems like a great solution. The issue is that its not readily set up for direct solar hookup and you need an extra MPPT charge controller for that.

If you're not planning on using the alternator to charge the battery, I doubt that 60w alone is enough to run a fridge. I have a 115w panel that I use to run a small dometic fridge and it works well if it's sunny. I could probably get away with less, but I doubt half as much, which is what you have. On the other hand, if you're only going to run it for a weekend, get the largest AGM battery you can fit in the space you have and recharge it when you get home.

Get an MPPT charge controller because you want to maximize the output from those small panels.

Here are the fridge and charge controller I have and am happy with.

Insulation question. Did a quick search and didn't find too much on what I wanted to know.

We did most of our insulation with polyiso and a little bit of reflectix to cover gaps. I doubt the reflectix will do much, but it's better than bare metal.

A friend recommended denim to stuff in the nooks and crannies, so I went ahead with that, but now I'm having some concerns about if it will mold. I've heard denim is mold-resistant, but not impervious to mold. We have a roof fan and are getting window vents to keep air flowing. I also have some passive dehumidifiers.

We aren't living in the van, just using it for (mostly) weekend trips, but maybe a one- to two-month stint here and there. We didn't install a heater, but have a Mr. Heater Portable Buddy. I know those cause quite a bit of condensation.

TLDR: should I rip out all the denim I stuffed in the nooks and crannies? I do not want to do fiberglass, and wool is a little hard to get here, AFAIK.

P.S. How do you guys do the flair? I've got a 2019 Promaster WIP.

I honestly enjoyed the mattress as much as my bed at home. It's this one off Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01INZBCJG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JSGUzb0GYEEBC

Just had to open it up and let it air out a day or two to fully expand and you're good to go.

You probably want at least 100ah and 200w solar would be better for a safety buffer. I would of gone 200ah if I could, that’s the advice people gave me when I asked too. I will probably add another battery and do alternator charging also.

I just added solar to my van and will be on the road full time in a week. My setup is 200w solar, 100ah battery, with Dometic cc-40us. I wanted to use a 900 watt Ninja blender so got a 1500 watt/3000 watt peak inverter. The blender pulls about 350watts when running.

KRIËGER KR1500 1500 Watt 12V Dual Power Inverter with Installation kit.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DNL05GW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_B3zmvxTNNm4Os

This is what I got for plugging in my cooler. Three inputs and built in fuse!

Automotive DC Power Outlet Extension [Heavy Duty] [12V-24V] [15 Amp] [In-Line Fuse] [Hardwire] Car Triple Socket Cigarette Lighter Plug Switch Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PXAMYTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_mFHJ6D9jxSpu2


I just had a Goal Zero yeti400 for the first 4 months in my van. I now will keep charging it while driving but also bought an all power 100watt flexible solar panel I keep unmounted and can hang anywhere in a 35ft radius of my van. It’s pretty amazing how much difference tilting the panel makes to incoming watts and just how weak the winter sun in also.

Everything will need to be grounded or it will not operate. The easiest way to do this is to use a fusebox as you mentioned. The number of items you'll want to power should determine the number of terminals you'll need. Connect your Anderson Powerpole terminals to their corresponding spots on the Blue Sea Systems fuse box (12 terminals with negative because you can always not use some, but you can't add any on the 6 terminal model).

https://www.amazon.com/Goal-Zero-Terminal-Connector-Cable/dp/B00URTHQTC/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1496442293&sr=1-1&keywords=yeti+1250+terminal+ring

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496442487&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+sea+fuse+box+12

Use a disconnect switch below and a ring connector cable to make sure you don't draw any power when not intended. It will go between your positive leads.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011EYWMDS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-47453-4-Gauge-Battery-Assembly/dp/B00JGJGCV2/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1496442659&sr=8-9&keywords=4+awg+cable

For the wiring to indidual 12v sources I use copper-clad aluminum because I'm cheap and use 12 gauge (non-awg because it's cheaper and only slightly smaller in gauge diameter) and it hasn't given me any problems because for the price I go a bit bigger than I might need.

https://www.amazon.com/PRIMARY-POWER-GROUND-100FT-ROLLS/dp/B00OU0IIFU/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496442827&sr=1-6&keywords=12+gauge+wire

For the fridge though you may want to go to 10 gauge.

https://www.amazon.com/GAUGE-GROUND-PRIMARY-STRANDED-COPPER/dp/B01C7O8166/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496442902&sr=1-6&keywords=10+gauge+wire.

Look at the 12v chart below and make sure you're within the range for the length of wire you want to run which I can't imagine you wont be since everything you're describing is super low amp.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/57/22/80/57228076ef240ed796b328a7d6387eac.jpg

Then to connect the equipment to power you can either solder the wires together or use these below to crimp them (crimping video below that). You're wire stripping pliers should have a crimping portion on them already. if not buy the ones in the 4th link.

https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-Insulated-Terminals-Electrical-Connectors/dp/B01D8HIQ2K/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496443951&sr=1-4&keywords=12-10+gauge+wire+connectors

https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Electrical-Insulated-Terminals-Connectors/dp/B01E7SY49I/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496444024&sr=1-11&keywords=12-10+gauge+wire+connectors

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Svja8zEcKNQ&t=9s

https://www.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Multi-Tool-Stripper-Crimper-2078309/dp/B000JNNWQ2/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1496443370&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=wire+stripping+pliers+irwin

You'll then use the terminal rings from the link above (pretty sure that's the correct size ring) to connect the end of those wires to the fuse box on the negative and positive sides. Fuse based on the amps you'll be drawing. Since I think someone somewhere will complain that this is expensive and there are cheaper ways to do it, I set you up on the "new everything" route since I don't think you'll have any of these things and if you're getting a goal zero I don't think price is a limiting factor. Unless you already have a lot of experience with wiring this is the basic version with everything you'll need pre-made as much as possible.

Silicone won't last up there, but can be a temporary fix. Keep in mind you will have to remove it and clean the area quite well when you do the permanent fix. Dicor Self Leveling Lap Sealant is what you need. I provided the link so you could see the label. Camping World will carry it for sure, if you have one near you. I am not sure if Lowe's or Home Depot carry it. This is THE solution you need.

Always loved that body style. Definitely a head turner. I used Dicor self-leveling Lap Sealant on my Transits Maxair fan, good stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-501LSW-1-Self-Leveling-Sealant-10-3-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B000BRF7QE/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=lap+sealant&qid=1568246948&sr=8-4

I am a fan of giving something small and useful. Most dwellers find that space is at a premium and many gifts do not take this into account.

Consider a gas card and/or a detailed map of the continent in which they will be traveling.

In the USA, one of the best maps is the “Truckers’ Atlas”.

From their website:
With its laminated pages and spiral binding, the Deluxe Motor Carriers’ Road Atlas can stand up to all of the wear-and-tear from the road. Save time and money with this easy-to-use atlas.

• Durable, laminated pages stand up to stains and liquids, and won’t show signs of normal wear-and-tear
  
• Tough spiral binding allows the book to lay open easily
  
• Detailed coverage of state and national designated routes
  
• Updated restricted routes, low clearance, and weigh station locations
  
• 22-page mileage directory including more than 40,000 truck-route-specific, city-to-city mileage
  
• Road construction and conditions hotlines
  
• Updated coverage of hazardous materials regulations
  
• Easy-to-use chart of state and provincial permit agency phone numbers and websites

Murphy bed!!! or this!

Composting toilet! Grab a bucket of sawdust to go with it.

Deflatable tub or portable Japanese soaking tub for shower!
If you need it... HOT shower!

Hand sink!

Camping stove that can be used indoors.

Water filter system for drinking and cooking.

Water storage!

For short term! ....just figure out how to secure it all! Fun! Fun!

I've got similar electrical needs to you, currently move between inverness and the central belt and have 290w on the roof. There have a couple times where it's been dreary for a few days and the batteries have rundown near to 50%, so in those events I've limited my usage and gone for a wee drive the next day. Hasn't happened too often though.

If you're driving every day you might be fine without solar but I would look in to a proper battery charger like one of these (https://www.amazon.com/Sterling-BB1230-12-Volt-30-Amps/dp/B071DMV7PF/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1535726827&sr=8-1&keywords=sterling+bb1230). I only mention it because my 'smart' relay only pushes 14.6v in to the batteries which isn't enough for an equalize charge and they'd end up dieing prematurely if it was the only charging source.

I'll plug this fridge too as it's awesome and uses very little power.

I'll copy paste something I wrote elsewhere just now. What do you think?

====

My plan is to use a shower pump like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Ivation-Portable-Outdoor-Battery-Powered/dp/B00IFHFJXI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Ivation+shower+head&qid=1567661650&s=gateway&sr=8-3#
Then boil some water on the stove, and mix it with room temp water and put enough in the floor of this to cover the pump:
https://www.amazon.com/Happy-Life-Portable-Plastic-Bathtub/dp/B008XSXQIO/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=Portable+deep+tub&qid=1567661792&s=gateway&sr=8-6

... set up underneath the roof fan, with some velcro holding up a hula hoop holding up the shower curtain tucked inside the tub. Get a thing to stand on so my feet aren't soaking, attach the shower head to the hula hoop, put a cloth bag over the pump as a rudimentary filter... Voila, recirculating, hot shower, for as long as I want, for just a few gallons of water.

Bonus, the shower water can be used to wash your clothes if you separate it from your regular gray water.

Well know its appreciated.

​

I have been looking at panels while I was working today and it looks like this may be the way to go for me - https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocrystalline-Negative-Controller-Connectors/dp/B06WGW485F/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=Renogy%2Bsolar&qid=1564175593&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&th=1

​

If I were to go with that I would just need a battery and inverter right? And would you possibly have any suggestions for a battery and inverter I should go with?

I got the Krieger 1100 watt inverter from Amazon. Looks like they only have 1500 watt version now. The 1100 was only $20 cheaper I think. I thought It was a good deal because it came with the cables and fuses. And if you read some reviews, there are plenty of people running TVs and laptops with it.

I like that it had a small LCD screen showing how many watts you're drawing and how many volts on the battery.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DNL05GW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ILDszbQ8TZCV0

I have done a lot of research on this, and in my view, the [Dometic CF-018DC] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030G7Y64/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20), which costs less than $500 new, is the best DC fridge/freezer on the market.

Doesn't take up a lot of space, runs cold and holds up to 23 12 oz cans of soda.

Hope this is helpful!

I know I need fuses but I don't know how big, and I know the battery is small but its what I can afford right now I'll get a bigger one later. If someone could just tell me what else I need and draw me a schematic, that would be a big help.

BESTEK 400W Power Inverter DC 12V to AC 110V Car Adapter with 5A 4 USB Charging Ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UFERZKO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_W1gqnxKEimW27

35AH 12V DC DEEPCYCLE SLA SOLAR ENERGY STORAGE BATTERY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D5YG3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_RYM9yc9uIJBdu

Renogy 100 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Starter Kit with 20A Rover MPPT Charge Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WGW485F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_EuTJwlC55xZgQ

Use an airbnb place, cook for week, clean up. Pack my van. Roll

The fridge I use, love it

https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CF-018DC-Portable-Refrigerator-Personal/dp/B0030G7Y64/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1474840297&sr=8-12&keywords=Dometic

Something like this was the best option I found

Get a small propane cooker. They're cheap and heat water quickly, also good for cooking... whatever. Just be sure to crack a window or use it outside. Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-2000004124-PefectFlow-1-Burner-Stove/dp/B0009PUR5E/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1398189942&sr=8-7&keywords=propane

Butane Propane dual burner:

https://www.amazon.com/GS-3900P-Portable-Convenient-Carrying-Powerful/dp/B01N1RO9WG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542457344&sr=8-3&keywords=butane+propane+stove

https://www.amazon.com/GS-3400P-Portable-Backpacking-Emergency-Preparedness/dp/B01HQRD8EO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542457344&sr=8-4&keywords=butane+propane+stove

​

I got later one. Super practical, I can take it outside to cook. Mostly use Butane. You can buy 12 bottles on amazon.

One bottle gets me about one-two weeks of use.

​

> Are you suggesting that I NOT get something like this or this to hook up to the Walmart disposable 1lb ones?

The Coleman is great, easy to use. Propane only. Do you know how much you'll use the 2nd burner? I love to cook, yet rarely use more than one burner while camping. But I'm camping, not full time. I never though about going the next decade of my life without a second burner. Maybe this is the stove for you?

The second stove is exactly what I was going to recommend. They have added the hose and the stand to use propane, but if you buy the "screwgate" "china town" butane canisters they will work too. And the 4 for $5 canisters are the cheapest disposable fuel you can buy. better pix here

I use a backpacking stove, myself. But instead of paying $5 for one can of special backpacking fuel, I use the china town butane. This is an option if you see backpacking in your future.

>Are those canisters even recyclable?

Depends on who you ask, but probably no. If you can punch a hole in them and flatten them they should be acceptable. Find out on your county's government website.

> Do I need a heater?

Lurking, I see L.A. Craigslist in your history. I'm in 40 degree weather right now on the other coast. Sorry, I have no idea.

If you were going to do the "surf to ski bum nomadic lifestyle" I'd say yes. I was in a van in CA a decade ago and was OK in Yosemite in May, but wanted a little heat by the time I hit Yellowstone. Snow at Devils Tower. I had no pets at the time. Sorry, outside my expertise.

I have a folding mattress.

This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01INZBCJG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it works great! granted, I don't need anything super cush, and I almost never fold it, but I like it. i'll probably get a topper at some point for it. I wouldn't pay $200 I don't think. they aren't that cozy.

It adds up fast so start small and build up if you find it is necessary. Many people get by fine with just one battery and a 100w panel - the key is to not use electricity for heat or motors and recharge as much as you can from the van's alternator whenever you're rolling. Also if you're starting from scratch, try to get 12v DC appliances (fridge, TV, etc) since power is lost in converting DC to AC.

Speaking of fridges and your healthy budget, spend the $800+ for one with a Danfoss compressor since they will sip power and work like a champ for years. The cheaper ones will not impress you.

I use a marine 2-bank 20a charger like this.

I like having it charge both banks of batteries when I've got the van parked for longer periods. As you can see, there are quite a few configurations depending on how many banks you want to charge and how many amps.

You can get inverter/charger combos but if you have an inverter that works for you I recommend just keeping them separate. Things can get much more complicated as soon as you combine them.

I went with one of these.

Highly recommended by other dwellers and This blog has a great review on it.

Found some interesting power solutions..I think this power bank has more juice than a house battery.


Extra large battery capacity portable power bank. Keeps your phone charged for 2 days straight lol, and cheap!

And if you must install a house battery....



Bring Your Van Camper To Life: How To Add Batteries And A Solenoid To Your Stealth RV

The cheapest and easiest thing would be to buy a 4000 watt generator..

You've made it clear you don't want to run a generator. You'll want at least 120-200 amp hours in batteries. Pulling 30a, on one battery from 100% to 40% will kill that battery real quick. Having two will spread the load and extend the lifetime of the batteries. Wire a 10 amp battery charger that you plug an extension cord into every night.

Have a 4000 watt inverter, pure sine not modified, otherwise you will use 120-150 amps in battery power, just to get 60 amps into the scooters (massive efficiency loss). Have that hooked up to your two deep cycle batteries. Run a power strip and plug in all your scooter chargers. Then when your home plug in the shore power to recharge your batteries.

OR BUY A GENERATOR

You can get a manual opening version that is much lower profile and let's you control how open you want it to be.

But as mentioned in other comments the limitation is that you can't use it in the rain and it's pretty unstable on the lid if open while driving.

Personally I would go with the white Maxxair fan because I don't think it is all that noticeable. Plenty of white work vans have stuff on the top. If you really want stealth, get a used ladder rack and stick a ladder on there to help hide the fan and disguise yourself :)

I use and recommend this battery pack from Chafon. If that's not enough by itself, you can use it to charge smaller battery packs like this one or this one while it is charging itself from the solar panel.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009PUR5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WA1yCb1ZM4RDA

If you're looking for a simple cooking solution, that is what I do all of my cooking on when car dwelling. I scored an off brand one for less than $20 at Fred Meyer, so they're out there for cheaper than Amazon.

Although with a van, I would probably splurge for a 2 burner setup. I car dwell for weeks at a time, so space savings is a big deal for my setup.

Uh, what? I have an ARB 50 quart fridge and that thing was not anywhere close to $150, in fact it's closer to $1000. I got it wholesale from a friend who was a retailer and it still cost close to $700.

https://www.amazon.com/ARB-10800472-Fridge-Freezer-Quart/dp/B002Q1INDM

this doesn't even include the electrical upgrades needed to run it for more than a few hours

thanks for posting! link without tracking: https://www.amazon.com/AFI-2720A-Board-Battery-Charger/dp/B079SZFFL2

The various 12 volt (compressor) refrige/freezer boxes are very nice to have. such as whynter; http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VX01P2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=32EK5L0XBKZE1&coliid=I2O47YYD6MLQLX

Get yourself a decent crimping tool. An assortment of terminals is a good start, too.

https://www.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Multi-Tool-Stripper-Crimper-2078309/dp/B000JNNWQ2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1469334380&sr=8-4&keywords=crimping+tool

When you make a crimp, test it mechanically by pulling the wire. It should not move.

ARB, Dometic, etc sell rock solid coolers that use very little electricity. Cheaper to buy a very expensive ARB than upgrading the hell out of your full electrical system.

Current solar panel kits are cheap, running a basic second battery or even having a third on a marine switch, is pretty easy. Adding upgraded alternator, dc to ac converter, wiring etc.... just get a solid DC cooler, and not the cheap ones.

ARB 10800472 Fridge Freezer- 50 Quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Q1INDM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rYtLzbKHWVYT7

I guess I am comparing a pelican cooler to an ARB, which really isn't a particularly fair comparison.

PS: $200 for a Pelican is a hella good deal.

https://amzn.to/2wIDRNd is the exact one. We previously used something like this: https://amzn.to/2NLuZgW . BIG upgrade with the new one.

These are kinda cool.cant attest to how well they work.
https://www.amazon.com/Eva-dry-333-Renewable-Dehumidifier-2-PACK/dp/B00LVN7BM0/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?adgrpid=72493982379&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI79jYj7XQ5QIVypyzCh2wIQz1EAAYASAAEgJVIvD_BwE&hvadid=356251716195&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9004809&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=1445874224055327036&hvtargid=kwd-300738523671&hydadcr=12188_9467458&keywords=dehumidifier+plug&qid=1572865654&sr=8-4

http://www.amazon.com/Whynter-FM-62DZ-Portable-Refrigerator-62-Quart/dp/B008VX01P2

There are higher end ones like engel but they're pricy.

You could. This maxair fan uses a little less than 5 amps on high according to the questions section so you're going to have high drain (relatively short run time) but it's possible.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VAWQYY or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BRF7QE depending on which you need.

Whynter FM-62DZ 62 Quart Dual Zone Portable Fridge/Freezers One Size Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VX01P2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gZZPCbRSKPP93

Check out this one.

He posted a link on his blog to amazon.

I bought a 50000 mAh (185wh) battery pack on Amazon. Ppl will say that it's not actually 50000 mAh blah blah blah, but I'm able to charge my laptop 3 times with it. Then I just bring it to work and charge it the next day.

https://www.amazon.com/MAXOAK-50000mAh-Portable-External-Notebook-Most/dp/B00YP823NA

problem solved: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008XSXQIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IsA6BbZNY7MWR

Here is the link for the MaxFan. https://amzn.com/B0050EEO94

It's very quiet on the lower settings, it had a digital speed control.

Butyl underneath then dicor around the edges is the traditional approach.

If you use painter's tape as a border (maybe .75" away from the edges) you can remove the tape before the sealant sets and avoid the melted wedding cake effect.

Why not use dicor lap sealent?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BRF7QE/

This is what I used on my maxxfan, been through plenty of storms during the last 6 months. No leak from the fan.