(Part 3) Best products from r/woodworking

This is just my experience (~2yrs woodworking) but it might help you. You hear opinions often of people way more advanced and while they can be very accurate, they also are much more sensitive to the finer details that aren't as important right now for us.

I went with the Stanley 4 for my 1st and if I could do it again I would go probably go Stanley Jack instead. They're both super comfortably priced (the jack spiked for the holidays but it'll drop in a week or two, use this to check the price. Those are more than high enough quality for our skills. It's hard to justify the price of a premium plane (LN/V) when starting out.

YES they are nice and incredible quality and will last generations, but it's fun to learn on something you aren't afraid to mess up but that also has some quality to it (yes, it will take some tune up, but it's really fun to learn, scour youtube). I know people will rag on the modern Stanleys, but I absolutely love mine. I'll be going Veritas/LN when the time is right.

Finding an old one to refurbish can be overwhelming especially when starting out. There's a ton all over the place and it's hard to know what to look for and what is the right condition it should be in etc —if anyone wants to chime in here; please do.

That's it from me, good luck!

I'm no pro, but here's my suggstion.

Marking and measuring are important. Get a knife of some sort. This marking knife is cheap and well regarded. Get a combination square (lot available at all sorts of price points). For a longer straight edge, you can use extruded aluminum or angle aluminum which is cheap, lightweight, and straight enough. Then learn to create a knife edge and a handsaw (either western push style, or japanese pull style) and you can cut wood accurately to size.

You're planes will then get you to flatten and surface your boards (you can use the aluminum as winding sticks). Lots of resources available for rehabbing planes. Then the next step is joints. For this, chisels and a comfortable mallet are great (and a rabbet plane if you can find/afford one). To make life easier, a coping saw and a drill (electric or brace and bit) can clear out waste for you. It makes life easier. But the key here is keeping your planes and chisels sharp. I don't know of a budget way to do this. I've got a few Ezelap diamond stones (coarse, fine and extra fine) that I use, but there are other methods as well (sandpaper on glass, waterstones, oil stones, tormeks). But sharpening is critical to handtool woodworking happiness. You might want a sharpening guide as well. The cheap ones work great (I'm not sure why these are so expensive. I think I paid $8 for mine). Then build one of these and you're all set for sharpening. Finally, you need stuff to stick together, so glue and glue applicators are worth looking into. I also use my cabinet scrapers quite a bit, but that's just me. They're cheap so I think everyone should have one.

After that, you can spend all sorts of money on other stuff as you progress. But most anything square can be built with this setup.

I recommend going slow with hand tools. Buy them one or two at a time, and then learn to use, sharpen, and care for those before buying more. This will help you get the best stuff for you while spending as little as possible. Let your projects guide your tool purchases.

Amazon isn't a great place to buy hand tools. Most people shop at either Lee Valley, Lie-Nielsen, or eBay for planes, chisels, saws, rasps, etc. That said, there's a surprising amount of stuff you'll need that's not the tools themselves. Personally, I wouldn't want to saddle myself with an inferior tool just to use a gift certificate.

Anyways. Stuff you SHOULD buy on amazon:

Hand Tools

• A card scraper. Do your research--they're tricky to sharpen, but they're miraculous things. I like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Bahco-5-Inch-474-125-0-80-Cabinet-Scraper/dp/B0001P0PHW/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1407859293&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=bahco+card+scraper
  
• Baby's first hand saw: http://www.amazon.com/Tajima-Japan-JPR-SET-Rapid-Blades/dp/B0008KLNSA/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1407859464&sr=1-3&keywords=dozuki
  
  Clamps
  
  
• Amazon is a decent place to buy clamps unless you're into the HD/Lowe's arbitrage thing. There's good advice on what clamps you need here: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/the-big-squeeze/
  
  Measuring/Marking
  
  
• A solid combination square like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Starrett-11H-12-4R-Combination-Square-Wrinkle/dp/B0002CSBNO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407857853&sr=8-2&keywords=starret
  
• An inexpensive marking knife: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002X201/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Your first festool: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UKRNG2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• I have some crown marking gauges from Amazon, but the jury's still out. I think I'm going to end up deciding that they're junk. They are cheap and will get you going, though.
  
  Sharpening Gear
  
  
• You can easily spend way more than $300 on a sharpening setup. Do your research. Most of the stuff you'll need can be found at Amazon.
  
• A good starting point sharpening stone: http://www.amazon.com/King-47506-1000-Combination-Waterstone/dp/B001DT1X9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407858723&sr=8-1&keywords=king+stone
  
• Training Wheels: http://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-800-1800-Honing-Guide/dp/B000CFNCKS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407858827&sr=8-1&keywords=honing+guide
  
  Consumables
  
  
• Wood glue--TiteBond II is what "everyone" uses. TiteBond III is more waterproof and gives you a longer open time
  
• Sandpaper
  
• Mineral spirits
  
• Finishing supplies
  
  Safety Gear
  
  
• The best splinter removal tweezers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EMYHA8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Band aids: http://www.amazon.com/Band-Aid-Brand-Adhesive-Bandages-Comfort/dp/B0047ITQ42/ref=sr_1_5?s=hpc&srs=2582875011&ie=UTF8&qid=1407859147&sr=1-5&keywords=band+aid+sheer+strips
  
• Safety Glasses, Hearing protection (if you plan to use power tools), Respirator (if you plan to make dust), etc.
  
• Broom, dustpan, brush.
  

I've bought several things from Amazon for the shop, and they're just the sorts of things that /u/abnormal_human suggests; Woodcraft also sells through Amazon, so you can get some decent hand tools that way, but that's not really "amazon" per se. For a recent birthday my wife went a little nuts on my Amazon wishlist and I received two waterstones, a lapping plate, and this shoulder plane - very extravagant gifts.

Amazon is also a pretty good place to shop for some woodworking machinery if you want to buy new and especially if you happen to have Amazon prime; free delivery on a drill press or a band saw can be kind of a big deal. Those are on my "dream shop" wish list...not going to happen any time soon, but if I can't dream on the Internet...where can I?

Another neat thing that I didn't know about until recently is camelcamelcamel which is an amazon price tracker. Companies adjust their retail price on amazon all the time, and you can set thresholds at which you would like to be notified. For example, here is the price history for the drill press I linked above. Helps to see if it's a good time to buy, or if you should maybe wait.

Have fun!

This guys list is pretty much what I was going to say.

So for some recommendations:

I've restored an antique 1930s No 5. Bought it for 45, and it is best for those on a budget. Any pre WWII Stanley just needs some light restoration work and a reworking of the blade and it will do 20x better than a harbor freight plane and roughly same as modern Stanley sweethearts at 1/3 the cost. It may not be as good as woodriver or lie Nielsen, but it's a 1/4 or 1/6 the cost respectively.

Paul sellers recommends Aldi Chisels, I got Narex instead for an additional $20. I love them, and will only upgrade out of them once I get enough money to go for some veritas or lie Nielsen. I got a set of 4 with imperial measurements for $60ish. I'd put any extra money into sharpening systems than upgrading them.

I bought David Barron dovetail guides and the Japanese pull saws he reccomends. Gyokucho 372 Razor Saw Dotsuki Takebiki Saw. Look at Amazon for the narex chisels I reccomend and the 'people who bought this also bought' section and you'll find it easily. While there you can find some leather for stropping and the green compound you need with it. Also while looking at these, you'll see a reccomendations for the Stanley disposable knife and the replacement blades. This is what Paul sellers recommends, and it works well. Stays ridiculously sharp, and can be rehoned with little effort and the blade cheaply replaced once it becomes to much work top get the thing sharp. Cutting layout lines is much more precise and helps prevent tearout. I bought narex marking knife and love it. I don't mind trying to hone it every so often. Ditto the scratch awl.

Basically took around the Amazon other bought recommendations and you'll find a bunch of fairly cheap quality things to get you up and running.

YouTube is a great place to learn just about anything.

Agree wholeheartedly with u/Joyrenee22. Woodworking for Mere Mortals is a must.

Also check out King's Fine Woodworking. He and his daughters have some great videos including a free woodworking course that just started. I don't know how many videos there are yet but the first few have been about shop tools, what they do, how to use them, tips/tricks, etc.

A few more good channels: Crafted Workshop, Jon Peters, The Wood Whisperer, Jays Custom Creations, and April Wilkerson. There are a ton more but I can't think of anymore off the top of my head.

Don't underestimate books for learning woodworking. My wife got me a few last Christmas that I've really enjoyed.

Woodworking Basics - Peter Korn

Good Clean Fun - Nick Offerman (bonus, this book is full of light hearted humor)

Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking. This is technically three books and a DVD. They're thick and dense (content wise) so this may not be the funnest to run through. Some of the illustrations in the book aren't that great either.

Good luck!

I have recently purchased my first home with my fiancée, and like all of you, have an enormous list of projects we'd like to do. I am fairly handy and am prepared to tackle any project (with supervision on electrical). All that being said, I have always used other people's tools when working on projects, so I don't have many of my own. I have a budget and would like to purchase all of my tools on Black Friday/Cyber Monday to get the best bang for my buck. I'd like your advice on which tools are the best for my budget.

We are planning on renovating the master bed, bath, and closet, kitchen, mudroom, and the laundry room. I also plan on making a kitchen table, coffee table, cabinets, dresser, etc. The first project is the laundry room and mudroom, which will require tile, built-ins, cabinets, and replacing washer/dryer. I have a tool budget of $5k-7.5k (ideally staying on the lower end) and would like your thoughts on my equipment list.

If you've used any of this below, what did you think? Are there any cheaper or better alternatives I should consider?

• Table Saw w/ fence JET ProShop II 725004K $1,500 http://www.jettools.com/us/en/p/the-jps-10-1-75-hp-115v-30-proshop-tablesaw-with-steel-wings/725004K
  
• Mitre Saw Dewalt 15 Amp 12" $500 https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-15-Amp-12-in-Double-Bevel-Sliding-Compound-Miter-Saw-DWS780/202922350
  
• Drill Press Dad's old press $0
  
• Router Bosch MRF23EVS $220 https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-MRF23EVS-Electronic-Fixed-Base-Trigger/dp/B002LASDGK
  
• Plung Router Bosch MRC23EVSK 2.3 HP (Is this a good Plunge router?) $280https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Combination-Fixed-Base-Variable-MRC23EVSK/dp/B002LASDGA
  
• Router Table Bosch RA1181 $200 https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Benchtop-Router-Table-RA1181/dp/B000H12DQ6
  
• Modular Table base Should I build this? $200
  
• 8 large clamps Jet Parallel Clamps (Does Jet make quality clamps?) $600https://www.amazon.com/Jet-70411-Parallel-Clamp-Cabinet/dp/B000F79022
  
• Planer Dewalt DW735 $500 https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW735-13-Inch-Thickness-Planer/dp/B0000CCXU8
  
• Joiner Delta Power Tools 37-071 6 Inch MIDI-Bench Jointer $450 https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Power-37-071-MIDI-Bench-Jointer/dp/B00IYJCFIY
  
• Vacuum Jet 1HP $400 https://www.woodcraft.com/products/jet-650-cfm-dust-collector-with-bag-filters-1-hp-model-dc-650?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIupH4jIn83QIVReDICh2P9QS4EAQYASABEgIgYPD_BwE
  
• Band saw Model Jet JWB-10 $450 https://www.woodcraft.com/products/jet-10-open-stand-bandsaw-model-jwb-10
  
• Finish Nailer Dewalt DCN650D1 (Already have 20V Dewalt Drill) $300https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20-Volt-Max-16-Gauge-Cordless-Angled-Finish-Nailer-Kit-DCN660D1/206528533
  
• Framing Nailer Dewalt DCN692B (Already have 20V Dewalt Drill) $400https://www.nailgundepot.com/dewalt-dcn692b-lithium-ion-battery-cordless-framing-nailer-details.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIo6Ddtor83QIVw4CfCh1EIg2zEAQYASABEgK-pvD_BwE
  
• Paint Sprayer Graco Magnum 257025 $240 https://www.amazon.com/Graco-257025-Project-Painter-Sprayer/dp/B004Z2090U
  
  Last question: does anyone know where I can find plastic sawhorses that allow me to put a 2x4 across the top, but also allow the legs rotate for easy storage? My dad had these growing up and I cant find them anywhere. I have found all plastic ones, but I'd like to have the wood so I can saw through it and replace it as needed.
  
  Thank you for your help! I look forward to keeping you updated with our projects.

If you go hand tools, you can start with Rennaissance Woodworker’s minimum tool list. You can go with a lot of vintage tools to save money, but for fun I priced out all new tools of good quality. Many tools were recommended here. I've added a workbench and some reference books and videos too.

MINIMUM TOOL LIST

$169 Jack Plane Woodriver
$125 Hand Saw backless saw ~26″ in length
$28, $30, $35 - 1/4, 3/8, and 1″ chisels Ashley Isles MK2
$79 Back Saw Veritas Crosscut Carcasse
$12 Coping Saw Olson
$18 Marking Gauge Beech Marking Guage
$12 Square IRWIN Combination
$149 Some kind of sharpening set up (stones, sandpaper, whatever) Norton Waterstone Woodworker Package

$592 Subtotal

NICE TO HAVE

$13 Honing guide Eclipse style
$13 Marking knife Veritas
$22 Mallet Thor
$15 Book to learn from Essential Woodworker Book

$63 Subtotal

WORKBENCH

$27 Workbench plans Naked Woodworker
$123 Materials for Naked Woodworker, costs from Mike Siemsen
$35 Holdfasts Gramercy

$185 Subtotal

GRAND TOTAL

$840

You can't rent a pocket hole jig, but they run about $20 for the cheapest one. You'll also need to get a locking clamp situation, and you can get some ideas on clamps here. The one Kreg hocks is most ideal, and it runs around $30.

I don't know if Home Depot rents circular saws, but you can check. Considering that their rental tools are always beat to crap, you may be better off getting the cheapest Ryobi they offer, which is about $40.

I know this flies in the face of this subreddit, but if your goal is to have something like that stand for pretty cheap, I'd just buy the stand you posted or get something similar you like from Ikea. There's an entry level cost to building anything. I know, it sucks. You can fit this whole design onto a half sheet of MDF, the sides and top just won't be as thick, and it will run you around $19. But I'd still get a full sheet so you can make that circular saw jig. I'll tell you, though, that making a piece of stable furniture out of MDF is going to be a task in and of itself since it's basically a big sheet of compressed and glued sawdust.

You're better off doing it with plywood and screws, and there's a cost to be had with the screws and whatever paint you use.

Hopefully that helps! Maybe! Possibly!

Used is always a good option. But it's a crapshoot. I'm not going to go into detail on vintage stuff - But if you want to pay about 20 bucks, expect a lot of work and maybe not the best plane. If you want to spend 50 to 70 dollars, you can get a really good one.

NEW

Gamble/Good - Stanley Sweetheart No4. This is the absolute lowest barrier of entry for a brand new plane. Do not buy any of the cheaper brand new Stanley - or anything cheaper that looks like them (Grizzly, shopfox, silverline, footprint, etc). They are a waste of money. I don't have this plane. But I do have the new SW 62 low angle jack. I really like it a lot. I'm considering getting this because it's so cheap.

Better - Woodriver No4. This is a good plane. It will be ready to go out of the box. Just a light hone needed on the iron. Also consider the 4 1/2 for 20 bucks more.

Best (traditional) The Lie Nielsen No4. If you want a bailey/bedrock pattern plane, it doesn't get any better than this - unless you live in Europe and won't get murdered on shipping for a Clifton.

Best (non tradtional) Veritas No4 Smoothing plane. Uses a different style of adjuster and you can open and close the mouth. This is an extremely well made and capable plane.

Best (Bevel up) Veritas low angle smoothing plane. I used standard Stanley style planes for years. However I am now officially a bevel up convert. I went with the larger, the smaller No3 sized, and if the UPS tracking info is correct, the really large will be here tomorrow. All of my other bench planes except the Stanley SW 62 low angle jack will either find new homes, or serve as backups.

I will say that he's going to be limited with that workspace, but he can get by with some basic stuff. I also have extremely limited space. I have an outdoor shop space, but since it's not insulated and has no power, I'm very limited in what I can do.

However, here's a good list of things to get.

1. Corded circular saw. I highly recommend this makita saw, it's a good value.
   
2. Metal-body combination square
   
3. Basic chisels
   
4. Workbench with clamps
   
5. Pull-cut dovetail saw -- can also be used for most short-depth cutting work. I use it to cut (or clean up) tenons as well
   
6. Glue. Lots of glue. I like Titebond II for not particular reason.
   
7. As many clamps as your remaining budget can afford. These irwin ones are always popular, work well, and are cheap enough.
   
   Keep in mind that father's day is coming up soon, and tools like these are popular things to be put on sale. Keep your eyes open :)
   
   

Stay away from pallets please, cough up some money and some time (if you go to a box store) getting some okay dimensional lumber for projects.

If you decide to go the hand tool route, I've got all sorts of info and what not, I'd share. (Im a historical furniture maker's apprentice, I like to think I've got some decent knowledge) I've included a list here if thats the route you go.

Used this list for a couple posts, its about $200ish in all to get you started. This list uses chisels in lieu of say a router plane for dados and doesn't have an option for grooves but that's later down the road. I've got a big enthusiast list as well if you'd be interested.

> Crosscut/Ripsaw: Irwin Double Sided Pullsaw https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Tools-Double-Edge-9-5-Inch-213103/dp/B0001GLEZ8
> Joinery Saw - I think this is the one Japanese saw I own? works okay https://www.amazon.com/Z-saw-Dozuki-Z-Saw/dp/B001DSY7G6/ref=pd_sbs_469_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001DSY7G6&pd_rd_r=RBVEGF6TKKCZHVCH7WSH&pd_rd_w=16INj&pd_rd_wg=gFI50&psc=1&refRID=RBVEGF6TKKCZHVCH7WSH
> Chisels https://www.amazon.com/Narex-Republic-Woodworking-Chisels-863010/dp/B00GPC74ZQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302108&sr=1-1&keywords=narex+chisels
> Marking Gauge https://www.amazon.com/Crown-135-Marking-Gauge-Beech/dp/B00EC9AOZQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZBYMV8TF850C6M5JDGDG
> Bevel Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XC2NYKS?psc=1
> Mallet - I'd personally make one or buy a used one (of heavier wood, good grain and quality construction.) Amazon has some though. https://www.amazon.com/Narex-gram-Beech-Carving-Mallet/dp/B00L7BQL54/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302341&sr=1-11&keywords=mallet
> Combination square -does the work of several sizes of squares for the price of one - https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Combination-Square-Metal-Body-1794469/dp/B005XUHIBG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302407&sr=1-2&keywords=square
> A No 4 or 5 sized plane - I buy old Stanley's/Bailey's because they're great, and usually cheap for bench planes - Flea Market/Antique stores/ebay -$20 ish --- Amazon also sells new (I give no guarantee on quality however) - https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-404-Adjustable-2-Inch-Cutter/dp/B000FK3WI2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302507&sr=1-1&keywords=stanley+plane
> "Workbench" - temporary thing to hold pieces while you make dovetails - https://www.amazon.com/WM125-Workmate-350-Pound-Capacity-Portable/dp/B000077CQ0/ref=pd_cart_vw_2_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CA9X21QD5D7QAXKMGE6S
> Woodscrew clamp, used to clamp peice to workbench while chiseling waste - https://www.amazon.com/ATE-Pro-USA-30143-Handscrew/dp/B0006A4A5U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499303583&sr=8-1&keywords=wood+screw+clamp
>
> Other than clamps, glue, mortice gauge, etc, this is good enough to get you started making carcass (dovetailed) pieces of furniture, like a shoe cubby or bookshelf.
>
> Thats around $200 for getting you started. Add a mortise chisel and mortise gauge and you can start mortise and tenon work. Invest in pipe clamps when you reach a glue up point.

I would consider using a cabinet scraper (just sand a little after you remove the bulk of the finish) and a scratch stock. This will be AGES faster than sanding or stripping and a lot easier to clean up. It may take a while to get the profile perfect on the scratch stock, but it will save you hours of nasty chemicals or lots of dust and gummed-up sandpaper. Chances are, even if you do end up changing the profile of the handrail slightly in your efforts to remove the finish with a scraper, no one will know or care.

If you do decide to sand, a toothpick or sharpened dowel with sandpaper wrapped around it tightly might help you get into the grooves.

As for the gaps...You can do a total repair by cutting the sides clean with a dovetail saw and then gluing in a shim, which you would then sand to match the profile. Or you could go the lazy route and fix it with a filler paste; I would recommend mixing up some sawdust and glue, rather than using a store-bought product (they tend to be chalky and don"t last long).

Good luck and let us know how it turns out!

I've only done them for 2 or 3 pieces so far, but you can do a good shaker with cope and stick style. This video from saw stop does a decent job of summarizing things, but do additional googleing to get all the details.

https://youtu.be/d-fCL-ZAVWs

Also, get a ftg rip blade for cutting the groove, any bevel will make it impossible to get a good tight fit. Here is the one I use with good success (then you have a real rip blade too!) I'd totally recommend the thin kerf if you have a 1.5hp or less saw.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000225UH/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468094452&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Freud+thin+kerf+ftg+rip

I would agree with the previous replies - good value router bits will be inherently good quality. Poor router bits will be a nightmare to work with and not last nearly as long as the higher quality ones.

My personal favorite is Whiteside and if you're looking for a set you might start with this. I've also heard good things about Freud and CMT. If you're on a tight budget you may consider something like Woodriver or Grizzly.

As others have said, you probably want to buy bits as you need them instead of a full set you may or may not use. I'm not sure what specific bits you're looking for in terms of radius etc - you'll have to see if it's more cost effective to purchase individually or as a starter set.

One final comment - I would strongly recommend getting 1/2" shank bits instead of 1/4" shank bits if possible. They'll last longer and provide smoother cuts through improved heat capacity and reduced vibration.

Edit: If you're willing to do some reading, check out this article. It's a torture test of the most popular brands and discusses their performance in several different woods and cutting scenarios.

Per Bob Flexner's book,

Warping like this is caused by compression shrinkage. When the wood fibers get wet, especially only on one side, they are limited in their ability to swell laterally, so they well longitudinally. This deforms the fibers, making them longer than they were. They then dry in that long, thin shape, and when they try to return to their original configuration while drying, they are now thinner than they were because of the deformation. This causes them to shrink tighter than they were, pulling the sides of the board into a cup.

The solution to this is counterintuitive but effective. Since you can't fix the wood fibers that have already deformed, you have to deform the other side to match it. Clamp the sides so the wood can't expand in that direction, then soak the bowed (not cupped) side with water and let it dry. You may need to do this several times, but now the fibers on the opposite side will deform, shrink, and pull the board back flat.

It looks like you may need to remove the finish from the top to pull this off, unfortunately, but it's likely the only way to approach a fix without removing wood from the piece. Good Luck!

Buy quality tools. I suggest staying away from craftsman as they don't hold up and are basically junk. Keep an eye on Craigslist. I picked up a $1000 jet table saw with an exacta fence and a built in router table for $100. For your table saw I suggest investing in 2 good blades and a dato set. All 3 should run you less than $200. I like Freud blades. As for routers most are going to recomend one with a 1/2 collet but I would hold off on that at first and pick up a multi speed palm router. I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PR20EVSK-1-Horsepower-Fixed-Base-Variable-Speed/dp/B000ANQHTA I absolutely love it and I know they hold up to heavy use. You can make a table for it with a peice of 1/4 Baltic birch of mdf core ply. As for a sander a 5in random orbit is a good starter sander and they can be affordable. Chisels are easy to come by, keep an eye out at garage sales- you can allways sharpen old ones and typically they are better quality than the crap sold at the big box stores anyway.

I am a finish carpenter and cabinet builder, my little business builds train tables and can be found here: http://www.modelrailroadbenchwork.com

I don't think you need to spend that much. This is the #4 I got: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002B56CUO?pc_redir=1409749742&robot_redir=1

It's great. Kind of the spiritual successor to the old Stanley sweetheart planes. $120 including shipping. Not peanuts, but nowhere near the $300+ lee valley/lie nielsen would charge you for a #4.

I've used that plane a lot for about a year and a half now. I'm not incredibly experienced, but I get great results with it. I've also bought 3 or 4 used planes in that time, and this is definitely still my favorite for working.

I love this kind with these filters.

3M makes a whole line of these respirators. I'm pretty sure the one linked here is the kind I got. It has a very soft, flexible silicone grommet that seals very effectively against my face and is incredibly comfortable. It vents your breath downward, so you don't fog up your glasses (a big concern with me). And the P100 filters with "nuisance level" organic protection reduce fumes from varnishes, solvents, etc., to the point where I literally cannot smell them.

Oh, and the whole get-up is really affordable, too.

I do a combination of hand and random orbit sanding when I need to sand. I try to get surfaces as smooth as I can with a smoothing plane and card scrapers so I don't have to sand much, but sometimes it's unavoidable.

As for bar clamps, I got this set from Amazon for $120 a couple years ago. I've supplemented those with others from Harbor Freight.
http://smile.amazon.com/Denali-30-Piece-Bar-Clamp-Assortment/dp/B000NDMO94/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1419722120&sr=1-2-catcorr

As for decent lumber, check your local Craigslist or equivalent for sawmills and lumberyards in your area. Don't buy from the BORG or Rockler/Woodcraft as they'll assrape you without lube. I've had good luck with auctions and yard sales too.

On the two occasions I've used stain, I used General Finishes oil based. Seemed to work well. I try to use woods that are the color I want to begin with. The most I usually do is use something like linseed or tung oil that darkens the wood a bit.

I have this Bosch trim router, and I have been pleased with it.

It is pretty light weight, and I like the way the design of the base allows you to easily handle it with just one hand. Bit changes are easy, and height adjustment is smooth and convenient.

I haven't had a need to adjust the speed, so I think if I were to do it over, I might have considered getting the one without the adjustable speed.

I use it primarily for round over and chamfer, but I also use it for skinny dados (like for a drawer bottom).

One thing to remember is that these pony routers only accept quarter inch bits, so if you have been collecting quality half inch bits, you will need to re-buy any that you intend to run in these machines.

It doesn't come with any dust collection ability, but there are a variety of add-ons you can buy if that is important to you.

The router is one of those things that initially I was not interested in. But I was working on a project and realized a router would be the best way to proceed. So I got one and started playing with it. And now I am in love with it.

> dangerous

Sure, at first it seems so, but I got a pair of these push blocks and now I feel a lot safer. In general, I love the push blocks; they even make me feel a bit safer around the table saw. Now that is a power tool that scares!

> time consuming to set up

This is one area where the INCRA router set up really shines! Started off with a cheap Benchtop Router Table and it took forever to set up a new cut. And god forbid I should need to go back and re-do a cut. One of the first things I noticed with the new router set up is how quickly I can go from planned cut to the next one. I feel so much more freedom to change router bits and experiment with different ways to get the effect I'm after. Really can just dial in distances to within 0.0004". And return to the same dimension days later.

Definitely buy tools based on the project(s) you have to do, but I think a good start would include:

Hand planer (Vintage Stanley Bailey is ideal)

A few chisels (Narex are a good option if you're on a budget)

Combination Square

Marking Knife (Stanley makes one that Paul Sellers recommends: Amazon)

Marking/Mortising Gauge(s): I think Crown is the only company making reliable ones with pins vs. the more common cutting disc.

Saw: I got this to start, its sharp as all heck, and has a crosscut and rip edge Japanese Ryoba

Any contractor saw would be excellent. You should look for saws with the motor hanging out the back, they're better than the direct drives. Everyone here loves the delta -I cant remember the number- or the Rigid, but I've got a mid 90s craftsman with new freud blades and it cuts very smoothly. I tuned it up following youtube's guides and then every time i adjust the fence have to square it up for 2 minutes cause I havent had time to build a biesemeyer fence yet. I got these two saw blades 24 tooth FTB and 60 tooth ATB

Build yourself a crosscut sled for 10$ worth of wood and I used it for rabbets and Miter-ing. This table saw is a pretty decent deal. Bet he'd take 300 for it

Dont be afraid of used things, youtube will tell you how to make it pretty decent.

Desks and shelves are totally fine to start with! Just draw up your plans and get started, you'll start finding out what you need to know. For example, on both, you'll have to learn how to flatten and square your lumber on the jointer and planer, or using hand planes, and for a desk, you'll need to edge glue some lumber together to form a panel. Just jump in & start asking questions, you'll get a lot more out of having a specific problem that needs solving and therefore having a specific question to ask than all of this vague "where should I start" kind of stuff. You start by starting. That being said, I got a lot out of these books when I started:

https://www.amazon.com/Woodworking-Basics-Essentials-Craftsmanship-Integrated/dp/156158620X

https://www.amazon.com/Tage-Teaches-Woodworking-Step-Step/dp/1561588261

https://www.amazon.com/Practical-Solutions-Strategies-Essentials-Woodworking/dp/1561583448

This third one I linked was especially helpful. I liked it because it discusses things in terms of general considerations, like here are the various ways you can attach a tabletop to a base and allow for wood movement, here are the space considerations in designing a table so everyone has enough elbow room, and therefore gets in you the mindset of thinking things through and drawing your own plans.

Not exact, but I have these and think they're the shit.
DEWALT DPG82-11 Concealer Clear Anti-Fog Dual Mold Safety Goggle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A12J3GI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_N.NWzbK11BJQV

Oh I handled my clamp problem like a boss.

http://www.amazon.com/Denali-30-Piece-Bar-Clamp-Assortment/dp/B000NDMO94/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377891164&sr=8-1&keywords=denali+clamps

30 clamps for 120 bucks, and they are actually really nice. Hold my work very firmly. I don't think they would be all that good if I was doing stuff like table tops that were super long but for even my bench, they are working great. I'll add more to my collection after I rig up a holding spot for the clamps I have now!

I agree with most of what has been suggested here. A microjig Gripper, a better saw blade, the one that comes with the saw is crap. A dado set. He can make push sticks, I like the ones I made better than the store bought. You could also get him a gift card to a hardwood store or HD/Lowes so he can buy lumber or anything else he needs.

• Micro Jig Gripper
  
• Dado Stack
  
• incra v27
  
• Digital level/Angle finder for making sure your blade is at 90 or 45 degrees
  
  

You can make a huge variety of joints with just a few tools. This is close to what my toolset looked like when I cut my first dovetails.

Note: None of these are affiliate links. I don't get paid if you buy these.

$28 Dozuki "Z" saw
I prefer western style saws (like the Veritas saw /u/jbaird recommended), but you will be able to cut very nice joints with this:
https://www.amazon.com/Z-saw-07029-Dozuki-Z-Saw/dp/B001DSY7G6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495827959&sr=8-2&keywords=japanese+saw+dovetail

$14 Empire combination square
https://www.amazon.com/Empire-Level-E280-Professional-Combination/dp/B000EU0ZB0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495828208&sr=8-4&keywords=combination+square

$10 pocket knife for laying down lines:
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-10-049-Pocket-Knife-Rotating/dp/B00002X201/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495828775&sr=8-2&keywords=stanley+knife

$24 marking gauge:
https://www.amazon.com/Crown-152M-Miniature-Rosewood-Mortice/dp/B001V9KOSM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495828829&sr=8-1&keywords=rosewood+gauge

$35 chisel:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SG70L4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


You could also get:

$49 DMT coarse sharpening stone. Only sharpening stone you need. Get a strop eventually.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001WP1L0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$5 Stanley Coping saw. Will help you remove dovetail waste.
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-15-106-8-Inch-Length-4-Inch/dp/B00009OYG2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495829310&sr=8-1&keywords=coping+saw

Provided you're gonna buy lumber that's already prepped, you should be good to go with the above. I'd suggest building things rather than 'practicing joinery'. You'll get plenty of joinery practice along the way :)

I'm in the market for a new pair of goggles. I have a decent pair of Dewalt goggles (my only Dewalt "tool") but they are open on the bottom, like sunglasses. When I work with my jigsaw for a few hours I end up with sawdust eye-boogers. I keep finding alternative goggles like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A12J3GI/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_nGz0DbVG39M3K

But the reviews overwhelmingly talk about rapid fogging. Does anyone have a better goggle to recommend?

For an inexpensive and easy to install solution, check these out: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HBT3BVM/

A 6-pack for ~$50 is pretty darn cheap. They put out a good bit of light and will really light up a basement workshop very well.

I have the 5100 and bought the dado insert off amazon. It looks like yours uses a different model, but this looks right for yours.
I use the Freud 8 in stack and your saw looks like it also takes 8 in diameter. That set is great.

to expand on this.

you'll want to buy a cheap powered router, a straight bit, a couple of clamps and HEARING and EYE PROTECTION.
i can't stress those last two enough.

once you've done that,

1. you'll want to install a wide-ish straight bit into your router.
   
   
2. mark off the area you want to route (make the marks on the waste side, where you're cutting away, or the other side, but be consistent).
   
3. set the router so the bit won't cut, but you can see it in the flat shoe on the bottom. you want to line the edge of the bit to your line, then mark where the edge of the router is.
   
4. you want to clamp your metal brackets to that line as a straight edge and guide.
   
5. don your eye and ear protection. it's going to get loud.
   
6. take a ruler or use the built in guides to set the bit to the depth you want (1/8")
   
7. double check your clamps are tight and the edge guide is straight. measure both sides of it, don't eyeball.
   
8. place the router on the work with the bit hanging off the edge. then turn it on while steadying it with your hands.
   
9. cut along the guide and any remaining bits from the edge until you have a nice level area for your bracket.
   
   i recommend practicing on a bit of extra wood. get the idea down and then do it on your final piece.

I'm not an expert, but if it were me, the first thing I would try is using a card scraper.

They are cheap no matter what (whether you make one or buy one), you can buy them in all kinds of different shapes from places like woodcraft or online.

I've also used putty knives (like the kind you use for dry wall) to make card scrapers. I can't personally tell a difference in the effectiveness doing it this way vs buying them (and at this point I've done it both ways).

here is an example of a set you can buy on amazon... https://www.amazon.com/Crown-376-Cabinet-Scraper-Gooseneck/dp/B001C06BLE

the curvy one would probably make the most sense for the fine work here.

basically you sharpen them with a file and a screw driver (make sure it's hard metal going all the way up the shaft like an old craftsman screwdriver or the like, also it should be round and not some weird hexagonal shape.

there are lots of videos on how to sharpen a card scraper, so you should watch them, but basically you file the edge flat across, then use the screwdriver (which should be made of harder steel than the scraper which is why this works), to turn a hook onto the edge of the steel.

I respectfully call Bullpucky on that.

"Almost any finishing product – stain, filler, glaze, finish – can be applied successfully over any other finishing product, except wax (including residue wax from paint strippers), as long as that product is dry." - Bob Flexner.

This article is good. His BOOK is even better.

I would highly recommend a Kreg Jig. This little thing is super useful for making quality furniture. If you dont want to get that I would recommend clamps. You always need clamps.

I have this saw. It’s not bad. One cool thing about it is that this Bosch router table top fits perfectly between the rails as a wing. You have to remove the stretcher and tap a few holes in the router table edge, though:

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Benchtop-Router-Table-RA1181/dp/B000H12DQ6

I have one mounted in mine. It works great.

The one I have was ~60 when I got it, but it's 79 right now. Its got variable speed, but that doesn't matter to everyone. I've seen people go for dewalt, makita, bosch, and ridgid random orbit sanders most often.

On the topic of sanding/dust, does he have a shop vac or any form of dust collection? I linked the one I have below that I got from home depot for $99, but there are smaller ones you can get. It's less sexy of a gift but it's something that's important to have.

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-ROS20VSK-120-Volt-Variable-Random/dp/B0018Z8D64/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448994791&sr=8-1&keywords=Bosch+ROS20VSK

http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-WD1450-14-Gallon-6-Horsepower-Vacuum/dp/B001MBADFI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1448994876&sr=8-2&keywords=rigid+shop+vac

I don't think you need much more out of a pocket hole jig than that. Unless you're a production shop that is making a ton of cabinet face frames, I think a pocket hole jig should be unintrusive, flexible, and convenient.

Actually, I think this one is better because you get much more flexibility in how you can use it. It's easier to make holes at weird angles to the edge, and to fit into tight spaces.

There's a few books you can get to start things out. If you go through them and it doesn't diminish your passion but increases it, they'll set you on course to get started on your own. They also are worth reading if you've already begun.

• The Soul of a Tree - A Woodworker's Reflections by George Nakashima
  
  
• Good Clean Fun - Misadventures in Sawdust at the Offerman Woodshop by Nick Offerman
  
  
• The Art of Japanese Joinery by Kiyose Seike
  
  
• Illustrated Cabinetmaking - How to Design and Construct Furniture that Works by Bill Hylton
  
  
• Hand Tools - Their Ways and Workings by Aldren A. Watson
  
  
• The Real Wood Bible - The Complete Illustrated Guide to Choosing and Using 100 Decorative Woods by Nick Gibbs
  
  
• Woodworking - The Right Technique by Bob Moran
  
  
• Woodworking 101 - Skill Building Projects that Teach the Basics by Aimé Fraser, Matthew Teague, and Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk
  
  Source here for this list of books with additional ones (that I haven't personally seen or read).
  
  Edit:
  Apologies if these are in the sidebar. I'm on mobile and can't view it.

I bought these from a suggestion here and they have been great so far. They are not great quality but it is a lot of clamps for a good price and they are better than the HF ones (I own a few of those as well)

Very nice. What are you using to flatten them? I've been looking at those, but the cost of the DMT DiaFlat that gets recommended around here is super prohibitive.

i recently went through this and did a lot of research and comparison. Comes down to either the Dewalt mentioned below or the Bosch ROS20.
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-ROS20VSK-120-Volt-Variable-Random/dp/B0018Z8D64/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373305781&sr=8-1&keywords=bosch+orbital+sander
i ended up going with the bosch, only because it was on a great sale. Both are tops for sanding finish, but Bosch excels a little in dust collection.

As far as the dado is concerned, I grabbed one of these with great success. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-SBOX8-Cutter-4-Inch-grooves/dp/B000ASGV1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426348245&sr=8-1&keywords=Freud+SBOX8

this bosch table will work as a table saw wing if you remove the base. There is also the bench dog promax to consider. good luck in your search - we all expect to hear about whichever you choose :)

For me, it's been as much of a challenge as any joinery so far. I used this book extensively. Great step-by-step instructions using hand tools or power tools or both!

These are great. No fogging in a hot shop. I wear prescription glasses under them and a dust mask. First pair I've had that I don't have trouble fogging up. DEWALT DPG82-11 Concealer Clear Anti-Fog Dual Mold Safety Goggle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A12J3GI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ATixxbPZ9KRKN

awesome! i heard about this. Good to hear that it does work.

Looks like amazon has one for $83

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SBOX8-Cutter-4-Inch-grooves/dp/B000ASGV1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426348245&sr=8-1&keywords=Freud+SBOX8

welcome! if you want a regular set, i have this one and i'm very happy with the quality and performance of them.

This is the one I bought. I use the P100 filters that twist on as well.

Unrelated to woodworking but I have a great dane. In February or March he had surgery and was on some medicine that left him with upset bowels. He didn't make it outside and left a huge mess on my main floor tile...twice. The only way I was able to clean it all up was by wearing this amazing thing. I didn't smell any of it.

For the cost of a blade just to save an extra ~0.025 inches or whatever or wood you can just buy a LOT more board feet of lumber instead. Or resaw on a bandsaw.

I think the blade that dewalt comes with is technically close to thin kerf (3/32 ~= 0.095 I think I have the same blade that came with my Dewalt..24 tooth 0.095 kerf).

A normal kerf is 1/8 or 0.125, to go even thinner you are talking like 1/32 of an inch less per cut I don't think you'll find a 1/16 blade for a TS and if you do it will cost a lot.

A 56.00 Freud thin kerf blade is also basically the same as what's in your saw https://www.amazon.ca/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-Ripping-Perma-Shield/dp/B0000225UH/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526935425&sr=8-3&keywords=freud+thin+kerf

So just save your money on a new blade and buy more lumber

Sure, http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-RA1181-Benchtop-Router-Table/dp/B000H12DQ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426809525&sr=8-1&keywords=ra1811

I am not entirely sure what is going on with amazon. They appear to be doing 50% Bosch accessories at the moment. However, that includes a good range of things. It appears there are some good deals out there...

Looks like no one has replied yet. I do not have what you seek unfortunately, but the one reference I have in invaluable: https://www.amazon.com/Illustrated-Cabinetmaking-Construct-Publishing-Subassemblies/dp/1565233697

It does not contain actual plans or guides, but a hundred furniture examples and how they were assembled.

Hopefully someone else will have a better reference for you.

Fyi the first one is variable speed. You can see the speed dial in the 2nd picture and here’s the Amazon link for the same model.

I have this one and with limited experience I'd say it's a good buy. The variable speed is quite helpful.

amazon has a 6 pack of 48 inch led shop lights for 40 bucks. best investment ever

​

891 reviews 4.5 stars I got a perfect set. put 4 in the shop. one over my kitchen sink and one in the laundry room.

​

yes the connecting wires are a little short . but it comes with 6 power cords and switches..

​

https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-Integrated-Fixture-Utility-electric/dp/B01HBT3BVM/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_lp_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5W1BPBMPEGBEQ9304H79

​

​

I researched a lot of them based on reviews. I think overall for price and how happy people are with the product, this stood out to me: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-ROS20VSK-120-Volt-Variable-Random/dp/B0018Z8D64/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333586647&sr=8-1

It's even back down to a very good price. I bought one, which was my first Bosch tool(I'm brand agnostic), and it really exudes quality. Comes with a case, vacuum adapter, and has variable speeds for $60 shipped. Hard to beat that.

Point well taken. I'm in a somewhat similar situation.

Since I'm enrolled in another supervised shop class, I will have a place (once a week) to work on real benches. My plan was to work on cheap wood and get some basic joints down, then tackle the bench project in Basic Woodworking. This is a small bench with mortise and tenon, wedged mortise and tenon, and dovetail joints. If that comes out alright I think I'll feel comfortable to move ahead with making my own bench.

I had some issues with my 4512 also bogging down. I bought a Freud 24 tooth thin rip blade and it works great. I haven't had any problems since. The thinner the kerf the easier it is for the saw to cut.

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-24-Tooth-PermaShield/dp/B0000225UH

I have a beard and I really enjoy this 3M mask. Picked up a couple 2097 p100 Filters. What's nice is I can swap out the filters depending on what I'm doing.

Either paper on a flat surface (like glass) - or a diamond lapping plate: http://www.amazon.com/DMT-Diamond-Machining-Technology-DIAFLAT/dp/B005FUHTDG
I flatten my stones with the diamond lapping plate and it works well!

I think this is pretty close to what you're looking for.

Illustrated Cabinetmaking:

It's very well received and maybe will even inspire you to make some sawdust of your own...

it looks like this https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Combination-Square-Metal-Body-1794469/dp/B005XUHIBG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481037968&sr=8-1&keywords=compound+square

but I think it was my grandfathers prob 30+ years old so I assume its good. I can look into getting a digital one though.

I am beginner woodworking and have only used the Bosch ROS20VSK. So my opinion might be a little "naive" per se. As far as ROS goes, it's great on dust collection and generate only moderate humming noises. It's also not too hard on your hands. Here's a link to it on amazon review: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-ROS20VSK-120-Volt-Variable-Random/dp/B0018Z8D64

My advice is to use a table saw to get the joints straight and square. You can use either a normal saw blade with some practice (and possible hand tool fine tuning at the end), a dado stack, or a dedicated box joint set.

It looks like this guy, $120 before shipping:

Stanley 12-136 No. 4 Smoothing Bench Plane https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002B56CUO/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_HS.xub020YHD7

A vintage Stanley no 4 from the 50s or 60s (sometimes earlier) will run you $40-60, will need more tuning than a new plane, but is really fantastic. Couldn't say how it compares to this new Stanley.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Facepiece-Respirator-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B00AR63G12

try this one it's better

with these for dust
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00328IAO0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687702&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00AR63G12&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=05RTG7C32WSA7VDPJ52J

I have glasses and yes it does make a difference because glasses fog up and it's always a pain.

keep in mind once you open your cartridges filters they are really only good for about 30 days.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/565206O/3m-cartridge-and-filter-replacement-faqs.pdf?fn=CartChangeFAQ.pdf

LeatheL has spot on advice, but don't forget if you ever plan on using a sled set-up you may find you don't have enough depth from a 6" set.

For what it's worth, I have been using a Freud 8" set since 2002, the teeth are all in great shape, I clean them when I have been cutting exotic woods like Jatoba or blackwood, or when they start to get a gummy build up. My 2 hp contractor saw has a hard time taking full passes set at 3/4" width, My 5hp cabinet saw has no problem taking full depth cuts at max width, but it leaves burn marks, so I always take a couple of passes.

This is the set I have had for 12+ years, if I upgrade it will be to the Freud SuperStack 8"
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223O9/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687742&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00004RK0P&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1E6H0FQEW8YNTCZQ1BJ4

also, check out Understanding Wood Finishes by Bob Flexner amazon link

It's basically an encyclopedia on best practices for finishing and goes through specific techniques for a LOT of different kinds of wood.

Card scrappers are good for getting glue off. They even work well in corners.

I also have the polished Freud SD208 and have been very happy.

I have this and am quite happy with it http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-136-Smoothing-Bench-Plane/dp/B002B56CUO .

Spend a few bucks on a pocket hole jig. You want to avoid screwing into end grain on most places. A basic jig will be about $20 and will work just fine.

A square clamp is also handy, but not necessary.

Sand the pieces before assembly will save you some trouble of sanding in the corners.

Wood glue will add a lot of strength, spread it evenly, screw the pieces together. Then use a rag with a little white vinegar to wipe off any glue that presses out before it dries.


Kreg MKJKIT Mini Kreg Jig Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00065WPP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xvrIAbVMZ9N52

Can-Do Clamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LJNJNU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6xrIAbVATMDX4

Ok you seem like the right person to ask...

What's the difference between this $120 Stanley number 4, and this $32 Stanley number 4, and this $15 Stanley number 4

Obviously the first one has wooden handles, where the other two are plastic. But is that the only difference? They appear to have different mechanisms securing the iron. Does that really matter, or is it all cosmetic?

Sorry this is probably a stupid question for most people here.

Routers have a pretty wide price range. People generally like Bosch for these kind of detail and precision things, sanders, routers, etc.

Bosch 1-handed 1hp for $99

Bosch big mama 2.25hp for $207

Have you read this guy's evaluations?

New Woodworker Routers



If it were me, I'd buy new only things you intend to keep for a lifetime, and buy an appropriately powerful and versatile tool. For instance, a compound mitre/chop saw can be had from DeWalt with MOST of the features except sliding to cut really wide boards for about 200 bucks, and it would take you awhile to outgrow it. Same with router. If you can afford this big honkin' Bosch and it does what you want, consider acquiring it for your 'lifetime' stable.

If you need a tool for a specific project but aren't sure of its general applicability, you should look on craigslist, particularly at estate sales, or consider Harbor Freight.

Thank you! When I ended up going to order everything, I got that mask and a few sets of http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00328IAO0, and it works great! I hate hate HATE any sort of mask or anything covering my face, not even a blanket when it's cold, and I don't even notice the mask when I'm busy doing something. Straps are comfy too, I was hoping it wouldn't be a giant band behind the head like my paintball goggles, it ended up being... The best way I can describe it to people is a combination of one of those little Jewish hats, and the strap people put on glasses that goes behind the neck.

I could suggest a few tools, but this one might be an even better tool for him especially if he's just getting into it.

Check this out http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00065WPP2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419211383&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=41E7C63NTJL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40 . its not a super fine woodworking tool, but its simple and will allow you to join boards cleanly.

Maybe a curved cabinet scraper?

https://www.amazon.com/Crown-376-Cabinet-Scraper-Gooseneck/dp/B001C06BLE

A sharp, fine file and burnisher will keep / make a nice sharp rolled edge on them.

For woodworking, the two big power tools you need are a router and a tablesaw. You can duplicate other functions of tools with those two. I would suggest high quality on both.

For a sander, the Festool seems interesting, but I can't imagine spending that much on a sander. Instead, I went with this Bosch which if you take the bag off, has a tube connection that fits a standard shop vac. Much cheaper on all fronts, does the job just as well.

Someone mentioned you wanted to build a deck, and that is one of the few places I think a miter saw is really warranted. In a woodworking shop setting, you could simply use a crosscut sled for the tablesaw, but for more construction style work, a miter saw would be invaluable.

So, I don't know if they'll become available again but I bought these for something like $50:

http://www.amazon.com/Denali-30-Piece-Bar-Clamp-Assortment/dp/B000NDMO94/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1418708154&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=denali+30+piece+bar+clamp

and I actually find myself using them more than I do my quick clamps.

This is what I have and I've always gotten good results.

*the dewalt has the same number of teef. durrrrr

I got the DMT lapping plate, only for much cheaper than Amazon. I think I paid like 95$ for it.

Is this the sort of thing you mean? Just clamp it in place and screw it together?

The picture looks like it has an allen key too, what is the purpose of it?

Understanding Wood Finishing by Box Flexner has a whole section on French Polishing, well worth a read.

I've liked the rip cuts I get from my Freud thin kerf rip blades.

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LM75R010-10-Inch-8-Inch-Arbor/dp/B001V5J4QY/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421010296&sr=1-2&keywords=freud+thin+rip+blade

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-24-Tooth-PermaShield/dp/B0000225UH/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421010296&sr=1-1&keywords=freud+thin+rip+blade

The thin blade eats less wood and for underpowered saws like mine works well.
I prefer the FTG blade because it's a little more aggressive and doesn't leave the tiny triangle of wood in the corners if you use it for a non through cut. Not an issue for re saws though.

"Illustrated Cabinet Making", Bill Hylton

Show all common woodworking joints, and how all types of furniture is put together. It does not tell you how to make each joint. It's up to you to put these patterns to good use.

http://www.amazon.com/Illustrated-Cabinetmaking-Design-Construct-Furniture/dp/1565233697

Everyone's got to finish their projects, and I've found this book to be such a good resource:

https://www.amazon.com/UNDERSTANDING-WOOD-FINISHING-BOB-FLEXNER/dp/B000H6EJ4U

A #4 or #4.5 bench plane would be good, not necessarily that particular one. A generic block plane would do in a pinch, again not necessarily that particular one, just one like that. They can be had for relatively cheap.

I guess Bosch makes a nice smaller one, anyone have any experience with this router?
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PR20EVSK-1-Horsepower-Fixed-Base-Variable-Speed/dp/B000ANQHTA

Try:
https://generalfinishes.com/

If you want to really have an idea of what you're doing when finishing, I recommend Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner

The contractor comes with their rather shitty 40t, full kerf combo blade. Its not a great blade, and its full kerf. Lots of full kerf blades will perform better, let alone a thin kerf. Its also a relatively loud blade compared to many on the market.

If you haven't bought blades already and are still researching, I use a Freud 24t thin kerf rip blade and 50t combo blade and I've been very happy with them.

The rip blade can easily handle ripping 45mm redgum (12kN on the janka scale) without bogging down.

You can use this set for the 7480 and 745. It's been sitting in my wish list waiting for a project where I need it.

Freud 8" x 20T Box Joint Cutter Set (SBOX8)

https://www.amazon.com/UNDERSTANDING-WOOD-FINISHING-BOB-FLEXNER/dp/B000H6EJ4U

Read this. It will help tremendously

I like it! Good use of the small space. I'm stealing a couple ideas from you.

Also, how the eff did I not realize that there are router table inserts for my table saw?

I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-RA1181-Benchtop-Router-Table/dp/B000H12DQ6

Is there benefit to having the one built into the table saw? Apart from having one less piece of equipment to worry about?

This may fit your table saw. It fits a dewalt dw745 https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Joint-Cutter-Joints-SBOX8/dp/B000ASGV1E

The lights I'm looking at are 2200 lumen each. I will try to fit 16 bulbs total. These are the ones.

https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-Integrated-Fixture-Utility-Electric/dp/B01HBT3BVM/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542908042&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=led+light+fixture&dpPl=1&dpID=41CSVksDnPL&ref=plSrch

I got the 5,000 lumen LED fixture from Harbor Freight for $20 and its stellar! Though I did find what looks to be the identical light in a 6 pack on Amazon for $45. I'll be ordering that for my next shop!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01HBT3BVM/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A1V31LM9AH9FRH&psc=1

Ok, here are some plans for you: Modular shelving plans
If you have any questions, let me know.

These require the use of a pocket hole jig. If you don't have one, get one. This one is the most basic kit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtkBZHLJyD0

Here's a way to use the router to flatten a piece. I adapted this to smaller use by finding to boards I knew to be flat and making the sled ride on top of them.

If you still have some ridges after this, or just generally needs some smoothing, get a card scraper ( i got these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C06BLE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to knock them down and then follow up with some sanding up to 220 grit.

If you do attempt this on your machine, you will want a thin-kerf rip blade, 20-30 teeth. The thin kerf will reduce the load on your machine.

Heres a decent Freud one for under 40 bucks from Amazon.

Any woodworking store will carry them, probably not Home Depot or Lowe's. Amazon has them at https://www.amazon.com/Crown-376-Cabinet-Scraper-Gooseneck/dp/B001C06BLE, I think I got mine from Busy Bee in Canada.

I use a similar respirator as you do.

These filters are on when sanding and when using shellac

I add this when using other chemicals


Ear protection. very comfortable to wear all the time. Still able to hear conversations and music.


Eye protection. I got tired of scratching the plastic lenses on the cheapies, and also wanted something to keep the dust out

Lastly, you'll need to think about measuring and marking. Your work is only as good as the accuracy you can maintain. You'll need:

-Combination square

-Marking knife - I use the one recommended by Paul Sellers https://www.amazon.ca/STANLEY-10-049-Pocket-Knife-Rotating/dp/B00002X201?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duc12-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00002X201#

-Marking gauge/mortice guage

-Bevel guage - not essential, but nice to have

yes, I use it a lot and it works fine. It's a dado that will do 1/4" and 3/8", but 3/4" is too risky. The comments specify people using it for the 745: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ASGV1E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this book on a recommendation from a blog that I read.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/156158620X/ref=oh_details_o00_s02_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the same saw and I use the Freud SD208

I am looking at this Freud set. How is it? Link

A marking knife always comes in handy: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-10-049-Pocket-Knife-Rotating/dp/B00002X201

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Benchtop-Router-Table-RA1181/dp/B000H12DQ6

Link to it not going through twitter and removed the ref ID

https://www.amazon.com/UNDERSTANDING-WOOD-FINISHING-BOB-FLEXNER/dp/B000H6EJ4U

What is your opinion of this?

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002B56CUO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1BEI1HAXXJGD1&coliid=I1D9M5TYC79WE9

I think this is the plane you're looking for: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FK3WI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_g-QZzbFV29TNF

There's also this one if you're willing to pay a bit more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002B56CUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_9.QZzb1P8J296

I had your exact problem with my Dewalt DWE7480 (just a bit newer version of your saw).

[This] (https://www.amazon.ca/Freud-SBOX8-Cutter-4-Inch-Grooves/dp/B000ASGV1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524245560&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+box+joint+cutter+set) is what you're looking for.

It's obviously not as ideal as a full dado stack, but gets the job done. I used it for cutting tenons on 8/4 stock and it leaves a nice clean/straight cut.

Never mind my suggestion, it'll probably ruin your veneer.

Depending on the finish needed, you might want to switch to using a blade with less teeth - something made more for ripping.
A smaller blade, with just as many teeth won't be any cheaper to resharpen.
I just got the following blade (Freud LU87R010 10-Inch 24-Tooth - http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-24-Tooth-PermaShield/dp/B0000225UH/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1381425527&sr=1-1&keywords=freud+lu87), so I can't commend on its longevity, but it seems more suited to your needs.
Should be at least half as expensive to resharpen.

I have the same saw and I bought this for it -- https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Ripping-Blade-LU87R010/dp/B0000225UH/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506016279&sr=8-1&keywords=thin+kerf+saw+blades+10-inch

I like the thin kerf as you don't have to worry about it bogging down if you cut anything thick, and I do mostly rip cuts. I've ripped and cross cut plywood with a thin maple veneer and haven't had any issues with tear out either.

Start with this book: [Woodworking Basics - Mastering the Essentials of Craftsmanship] (http://www.amazon.com/Woodworking-Basics-Essentials-Craftsmanship-Integrated/dp/156158620X/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398568760&sr=8-2&keywords=beginner%27s+woodworking) and read it cover to cover. Learning about the properties of wood is a good start. It will prevent common mistakes such as using the wood in a weak (cross grain) direction for structural components.

Once you've made a few tables and bookshelves, make some of the joints in this book: [Handbook of Joinery] (http://www.amazon.com/Handbook-Joinery-Woodworking-Pierre-Home-Douglas/dp/080949941X/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1398568624&sr=8-13&keywords=time+life+books+woodworking)

What are you going to use the #4 plane for? Planing without a solid workbench and vise/hold downs is a chore. Perhaps a block plane or even sandpaper would be enough to get you started?

Square - get the Irwin combo, it's accurate enough for casual use. https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Combination-Square-Metal-Body-1794469/dp/B005XUHIBG

That stone is too coarse for woodworking tools. Either use sandpaper like others have suggested, or get the King 1000/6000 https://www.amazon.com/King-Sided-Sharpening-Stone-Base/dp/B001DT1X9O

I would argue that the chisels, while crappy, will make good sharpening practice. Or get the $5 Harbor Freight ones and sharpen them every 5 minutes - at least you'll become a sharpening expert fast.

You'll probably mess up (from what I've heard, everyone does), so just plan on trying again right away :)

I decided I wanted to learn, and I figured trying it was the only way to get there. It was a little intimidating at first, but I just accepted that I would make mistakes, and took it slow. For these, I followed the steps in [this book] (http://amzn.com/156158620X) and a Paul Sellers video.

I messed up by following the book literally, and only made the dovetails 5/8" deep, but the finished poplar I used was 3/4". So, I just buried my frustration, extended the lines, and cut/chiseled another 1/8".