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Reddit mentions of Master Airbrush Brand - Airbrush Cleaning KIT #1 Spray GUN & Airbrush Clean Set, Everything You Need to Keep You New Binks, Devilbiss, Sata, Iwata, Master, Badger, Paasche & Other Spray Equipment in Top Condition.

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We found 2 Reddit mentions of Master Airbrush Brand - Airbrush Cleaning KIT #1 Spray GUN & Airbrush Clean Set, Everything You Need to Keep You New Binks, Devilbiss, Sata, Iwata, Master, Badger, Paasche & Other Spray Equipment in Top Condition.. Here are the top ones.

Master Airbrush Brand - Airbrush Cleaning KIT #1 Spray GUN & Airbrush Clean Set, Everything You Need to Keep You New Binks, Devilbiss, Sata, Iwata, Master, Badger, Paasche & Other Spray Equipment in Top Condition.
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25 piece professional airbrush and spray gun cleaning kit will keep your spraying equipment clean and efficient, so they provide you peak spraying performanceIncludes all brushes and components needed for cleaning every spray gun and airbrush part13 Micro Needle Sizes, 5 Piece Mini-Brush Set, Mini End Brush with Holder, Double Side Dental Pick2 Tube Cleaning Brushes, 1 Double Sided Combination Brush, 1 Large General Purpose Brush16 Ounce Polyethylene Bottom Fluid Feed Cleaning Bottle
Specs:
Height8.8 Inches
Length5.7 Inches
Weight1 Pounds
Width2.9 Inches

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Found 2 comments on Master Airbrush Brand - Airbrush Cleaning KIT #1 Spray GUN & Airbrush Clean Set, Everything You Need to Keep You New Binks, Devilbiss, Sata, Iwata, Master, Badger, Paasche & Other Spray Equipment in Top Condition.:

u/Gungyver ยท 1 pointr/Gunpla

hmm, may have to look into picking one up. tought i would offer some tips about airbrush matinence incase you have not used one before: first make sure you Pick up a airbrush cleaning kit. I use this one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CHU7WO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but there are other styles you can get like a cleaning pot. However, I have not used one before so i do not know how well they work.

youer going to want to take apart your airbrush for a therow cleaning after you have finished, two HG/ and standered 1/100 kits or a full IBO 1/100 or MG kit. (I have around 150 page clips for drying and i used up a of them Just on the frame of the kimaris, and i still had to pin a few of the piece). I between coats and colors you just need to run some water and cleaner threw your brush.

Wiping out the gravity feed cup with a paper towel or t-shirt material like rag will save you a lot of time in cleaning out some time. you will want to put your finger on the nozzle and run some air threw it to clean off the needle. i tend to run cleaner threw the brush after using water just to make sure its completely clean, then run some water threw it again to remove any traces of the cleaner.

Also you will wana clean the nozzle out with a qtip every 15-30 pieces to prevent it from being clog by dried paint. this is especially important when your spraying a top coat.

you will also want to check out what size nozzle your airbrush is, generaly most airbrush paints are ok to use on anything with a .5mm or larger nozzle, but thining it out by adding a ratio of 1 to 1 of thinner to paint.

also make sure you use the apropriet thinner for the type of paint your using. as thinner/drying agent for water base paint will not mix witha lacquer based paint. I learned that the hard way and lost about half a bottle of the Mr metallic DX bloody red. its about 5 bucks for a 18 ml bottle, but well worth the price as its IMHO the best metallic paints out there.

Paints: depending on what you want to do you can get and thinn out tamiya, Mr hobby paints. but if you want to mix your own colors make sure you get self curing paints and not ones that need heat to be cured. cause even on the lowest heat setting or with a blow dryer will deform the polystyrene that the armor of older kits and every kit made after 2014 like the G-reco or IBO. i have used a few brands but highly recommend Createx Colors Wicked Color's or Testors AZTEK paints. however Testors AZTEK pigments will separate in about 12-24 hours so you will have to shake them up again before each use.

Also if your mixing your own pigments I highly recamend using a small digital scale and a notebook or word document to record how much of each color you use. Because if you run out of paint half way threw a kit, you can never quite get the same color if you mix it by eye.

For storage of thinned paint or unused paint, the cheapest way to go is to just buy some labware bottles off amazon.com i particulerly like these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I3OYKZQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 however i also have 1 Oz bottles for inital mixing of pigments and thinning out paint as the extra room makes it easier. you will definetly want the larger bottles when Im mixing pigment for MG and IBO 1/100 kits. for storing leftover paint for latter use or your not mixing pigment, any colored bottle will work, but you defiantly want a clear bottle when mixing pigment just to judge the color. Because I find that when im making a new color I like to mix them up before making the final recording so i can deside if it looks right and or if it need say a bit more green, or a touch of white to make it a bit lighter, ect.

Also its fun to think up a crazy name for a color you just made. for example i call my latest blue Zigon 7.

If your mixing two different brands of paint together make sure you record the brand name and color for later use, as no two companies use the same base colors. even if the colors are made by the same company different labels still use different shades.

Hope this helps you avoid some future problems when your trouble shooting your new airbrush, and have fun. =) (Sorry for any grammar/spelling errors I really do not feel like going back and checking every thing since I wrought a lot here.)

u/Clint_beastw00d ยท 1 pointr/minipainting

Ohio area. I almost need like a heavy duty pipe cleaner.

So after just a google search of "Airbrush cleaning kit" found something like this