Reddit mentions: The best airplane model kits

Mischief Managed!


The First

Since I don't drink, my experience with wine is limited, but as a mother I have quite a lot of experience with small creatures who like to whine. We all know the only way to keep these little creatures (otherwise known as children) from excessive whining is to keep them distracted and entertained.


The Second

How is it that muggles can keep their homes clean without magic or house elves? I can't even think about the hard work it must take to keep a tidy home without magic, using nothing but a basic broom! And did you know they only use brooms for cleaning? Imagine! If I couldn't lift off the ground on my broom, I don't know what I'd do! How would I travel?! Surely those large metal boxes they put up in the sky can't be safe! How do they stay in the air without magic?! I just don't know how I'd live if I were a muggle.


The Third

Of all the things that people have put on their heads throughout history, only the hat lived on as the one piece of attire universally accepted to protect the tops of heads. There was a short period of time between 1622 and 1624 in which wizards commonly wore ornamental bonsai trees atop their heads, but this fad inevitably led to a large increase in bee stings during the spring and summer months when bees became interested pollinating the head wear. And so, as most fads do, the bonsai look faded out of popularity. Only the hat as remained an actively appropriate way to address the need to cover the top of one's head. There have been many famous hats throughout time, including the bowling bowler that was often seen resting atop the head of the wizard known as Maginny McMulnery, when it was not bowling perfect games. Another was the incredibly well-known Lost Diadem of Ravenclaw, though many argue that the diadem is not qualified as a hat, but rather an item of jewelry. Others argue that it's stylistic qualities make no difference, as it's use is what is important, though most of those who argue are tuned out by others who don't much care about the semantics regarding long-lost treasures that will never be found again. The most famous of all hats, however, is inarguably the Hogwarts Sorting Hat which has sorted students into their Houses at Hogwarts school of Witchcraft and Wizardry since it's inception.


The Fourth

If you are in need of any book, there is only one place you need look. The Hogwarts Library will always have what you need.... Unless you are looking for information about horcruxes, in which case you should stop asking questions and get back to your studies.


The Fifth

When traveling, it is important to pack smartly. How many things can you fit in your trunk, and will there be room for everything you'll need? Sometimes, it is simply impossible to bring every item on your list in just one trunk, but two or three trunks is just too much to carry when passing through muggle areas where magic use is restricted. That's why some witches and wizards decide to use an Undetectable Extension charm. This charm allows your trunk or bag to extend within, so that you can fit a nearly infinite amount of items in a finite space. This charm leaves items bigger on the inside, allowing for a much easier and hassle-free travel experience.


The Bonus

Any superhero knows that a cape is not a complete disguise. Well, any hero besides superman. If you're going to wear a cape, you've also got to have a mask. It's probably best if the mask has eye holes, though...


Edit!!! Oh, I forgot to say why I will NEED these items! The first is self-explanatory, I'll need to keep the whining to a minimum in order to focus on the work I'm assigned, especially if I take potions. You know Snape is going to assign at least a dozen parchments worth of writing every week. The second is what I'll need to use in order to get across the Atlantic to attend Hogwarts! No matter how much I prefer traveling by broom, I can't risk such a long flight alone. The third is something all students will need, because without the sorting hat it would be impossible to be sorted into our houses! The fourth is, of course, incredibly important. I'm sure I'll be frequenting the Hogwarts Library throughout my time there. The fifth will be the very first thing I use, because without my trunk being bigger on the inside they'll never even let me onto the plane! I'd have way too many bags and trunks without that charm. And of course, as for the bonus, I'll need that mask in order to sleep, because my dorm mates are quite rowdy and I expect them to be using magic well into the evening most nights. Along with the eye mask, I'll also be packing several pairs of ear plugs!

Bandai is (IMO) the top of the Japanese heap, model-wise - well-engineered, complex but not fiddly. Their Eva offerings are OK, but where they really shine is the Gundam stuff. Currently, they're available as 1/144 HG (no inner frames, decent articulation and detail), 1/144 RG (inner frames and high detail) 1/100 Re/100 (no inner frames, decent external detail, 'niche' MS) 1/100 MG (current ones have internal frames and high detail; older ones, not so much), 1/60 PG (big scale, high detail inside and out), and some 1/144, 1/100 and other 'No Grade' (older, low-articulation, low color separation kits), and some non-Gundam stuff like VOTOMS (we'll get there in a bit). Like everything else, newer kits will have better parts layouts than older kits. You can check Dalong.net, for visual reviews, parts counts, scale comparisons, and so forth.

In HG, most of the kits from Char's Counterattack, Unicorn, Build Fighters/Try and Iron Blooded Orphans on are excellent kits, with prices running from £6 up to £35

In RG, (IMO) the best kit, in terms of detail, design, and durability is the RG Gundam Mk II AEUG, priced at a very reasonable £15.

MG run from £16.75 up (Ball is love; Ball is life) up to the mind-blowing, £95 Sazabi ver.Ka. Yes, it's pricey, but it's one of the best-engineered models you'll ever build. 37 runners of multicolored, snap-fit glory.

PGs are well out of your price range, all well over the £100 mark.

Outside the Gundamverse, Bandai also does 1/20 VOTOMS; but slightly over your cap at £65 They also do Macross kits (the current series is Delta; kits are just now being released), but their transforming requirements make them a little explodey. They also do Yamato and other spacecraft; I don't have a lot of experience with them.

Past Bandai, Kotobukiya does some excellent Armored Core (among other properties) kits; they are a little finickier fit wise, and a little pricier, coming in at around £45 and up. They work best for experienced modelers who aren't afraid of complex painting jobs. Hasegawa does non-transforming Valkyries; they will need glue and paint to look good. Hasegawa also does the love-to-get-grubby, need-glue-and-paint-and-patience Maschinen Krieger line.

Beyond that, you start getting into smaller makers, and resin kits, and imports direct from Asia, and probably out of your area of interest.

Since you asked for C&C:

1. Seams. Very visible seams along the entire length of the fuselage, and the wing roots. Seams along the leading edge of the wings as well.
   
   
2. Decals: From a distance, they look reasonably good, but realistically, in the future, use a gloss coat and decal setting solution like Micro Sol, followed by a flat coat once the decals have set. Some of the decals upon close inspection are silvered, i.e. the clear film of the decal is visible. Ideally, it should not be and simply appear painted on. Those clear film outlines shouldn't be visible. It looks like what you did was apply the decals directly onto the flat paint, which is why that's the case. They also don't look like they're sticking properly, or you're applying gloss (or is that decal film?) only where the decal is being applied, creating localized areas of glossy paint/surface that doesn't look like it belongs on the rest of the model.
   
   
3. Paint is a bit thick on the chin turret, it has visible texture. But I imagine you brush paint, so that's more likely to occur. Thin your paints a bit more next time and be mindful of that, but it doesn't look bad.
   
   
4. There are various splotches on the model (or are those fingerprints from a dusty model that's been handled?), along the tail, and left wing. If they are splotches, try to avoid those next time.
   
   
5. Mask your markings using tape, e.g the triangular "K" on the tail fin. Yes, including the lettering. It takes five or six minutes to draw and cut a mask out of something like a post-it note to use as a stencil, and looks way better. Or since you're brush painting, draw it directly onto the model and just carefully fill in the lines.
   
   
6. Canopy frames are detached from the body of the plane, but I suspect that's because that area has relatively difficult fit.
   
   
7. Canopy frame masking: the turret above the cockpit's frames are messily painted.
   
   
8. Bleeding paint: you can see where the olive green/drab has bled into the lighter gray below, see e.g. the area near the nose cone, just below the pinup drawing.
   
   
9. Looking back at your previous models, I think you need to read up on doing decal work. Plenty of tutorials on youtube.
   
   
10. Use a much smaller brush to freehand your markings. In some cases, I'd say you'd need an 5/0 to 20/0 brush (available at art stores) For example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R9SB3UM/ref=asc_df_B00R9SB3UM5278077/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B00R9SB3UM&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198071540295&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13272101989228897543&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004075&hvtargid=pla-324041884931. I use rounds and liners most frequently, but whatever.
    
    
11. I would skip adding more weathering for now or stuff like that. Focus on getting a perfect, clean build first. Also, I'd recommend something other than Revell USA for your next kit. Consider: https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Models-North-American-Mustang/dp/B000LFWIV8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511368443&sr=8-1&keywords=Tamiya+p-51D, or Airfix's Spitfire PR.XIX: https://www.amazon.com/Airfix-Supermarine-Spitfire-Airplane-Building/dp/B00BBCO9OE/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1511368490&sr=8-12&keywords=airfix+spitfire
    
    Both have relatively simple paint schemes, and both assemble well.
    
    Not bad overall, but many areas where improvements can be had. Hope that helps! And anyway, have fun.
    

Talk to him first. Find out what F-16 model is his favorite. If he likes a certain model of F-15 then get him that one.
By getting him "that model" I mean get the dude a model air kit from amazon or something.

F-16

F-15

Look it might sound dumb, but people who really love aircraft will put these things together if they have flown or worked on them in a maintenance capacity. You could buy him one of these, and he would be impressed. But if you could find out what model and make of jet he liked, and put it together yourself, and then give it to him, you'd be an all-star forever.

If you have a model shop near your town, talk to the nerds who run it and let them know you have never put one of these together. Trust me, these guys are more than willing to help out with advice. On the other hand, if he was a pilot get the man a beer tap joystick.

Welcome, hope this /r/ will help you get started off well.

Dr_Von_Spaceman covered the basic tools well enough, so here's a couple of suggestions (from an aircraft guy) for kits that would be good to begin with. Hobby Lobby typically carries Tamiya kits and both the 1/48 scale A6M2 Zero and 1/48 F4U-1D Corsair are extremely well designed and relatively inexpensive (don't go to HL without a coupon!!) . The Zero would be especially good for a first kit as it isn't very complicated, goes together almost flawlessly, has a basic paintjob, and still has a few small challenges to keep it interesting.

One thing I'll add to the supplies list would be a chunk of modeling clay (the stainless clay is good). This stuff is incredibly useful for myriad modeling tasks. You can use it to hold parts on sprues or toothpicks while painting or assembling. Make a small indentation in a lump of clay and put a few drops of superglue in it, then dip a toothpick or cut sewing needle in for application. It also makes a good, quick mask for certain painting situations. Just get the clay, you'll keep finding uses.

Okay, thanks. What else would I need.. THe knife and the primer for now? Thats it? You dont know how much i appreciate this. ALso is this a good model? Im looking for something hard to put together, but also includes paints and is in my price range. This is the best ive got. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055ANWKA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1Y0OWTP8E47U9&psc=1




Also are there any other vehicles that include the paints that arent a plane? Just asking because my son and I both love a lot more vehicles than we love planes

If you're feeling like your libido is out of control then I urge you to stop jerking off. Just take cold showers and stop watching porn. If you need to jack it use a device so you don't hurt your hand. Stimulating yourself in the same exact motion can lead to problems performing during sex so you want to make sure that when you are masturbating that you are replicating what it feelings like to be inside a man's ass. A flesh jack is probably a good tool for you.

It sounds like you need reprogram yourself so that you don't see other people as just means for you to get off. You're describing something that sexual compulsives often describe. A way to combat that is to start to think of people at home with their families. Think of them as getting older and all the hopes and fears of their lives. Really try not just to look at them as body parts but as people with more to them than you could ever truly know. When you're able to value other people you'll start to respect yourself more too.

There is a lot more to you than sex. You need to start exploring that. Get a hobby. I think building model planes would be good for you.

Here are some links to get you started:

http://www.reddit.com/r/aviation/

http://modelairplaneinternational.com/

I think this one is pretty cool.

http://www.revell.com/

This is the 1/32 HK Models B-17 which is considered high quality and very large.

The Revell or Monogram 1/48 B-17 are a bit sparse in detail and are relatively old.

The Airfix 1/72 B-17 is the most recent release in this scale and considered quite good. Academy, Revell, and Hasegawa also have B-17s in this scale but are older, with Hasegawa being the oldest.

This is just one of many bomber types available. Your very broad question almost asks us for what you may want, but you don’t provide any guidance like scale, or detail, or accuracy. Each of those with a statement like, “detail is more important than accuracy and both are more important then scale” is helpful. But also state which bomber such as Lancaster, B-17, He-111, G4M, et cetera.

Tamiya's WWII prop planes are some of the best beginner kits out there, from my experience, especially their P-51D. It is only two sprues, so there aren't a lot of parts, but still a good bit of detail. They also fit just about perfectly.

Armor kits can be fiddily. Road wheels can be a pain in the ass and most armor have some kind of tiny hand rails and things like that

This is the kit I mentioned

Pretty easy to order online these days. Amazon has some good ones starting from an inexpensive but impressive P51 Mustang to the B-17 Flying Fortress. Revell and Monogram always have consistent quality molded parts but the off brands always had the varieties of odd German planes.

Canadians: This isn't really a sale item, but worth mentioning. Amazon.ca has the 1/48 Airfix spitfire/Bf109E combo for $35 with free Prime shipping (if that's a thing you have). The two models that are in that kit retail for $35 each, plus you get paint and glue. So this is a steal. You can grab one here:

https://www.amazon.ca/Airfix-Plastic-Models-Kits-Messerschmitt/dp/B00IJZIECE/

It’s part of the Airfix 1/72 double pack. Came with glue, paint and two models. The other one was a Zero.

Here’s a link in amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055ANWKA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_CnCiyxqpNKcYC