(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best aquarium filter accessories

u/ShySquids - Continued comment:

For your next adventure into betta-keeping, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND this tank: https://www.petsmart.com/fish/starter-kits/top-fin-essentials-aquarium-starter-kit-5262256.html 5.5g tank

My bettas love theirs! https://i.imgur.com/6M2Qu58.mp4 <-- Here's my pink-red combtail boi Raiku, wiggling super excitedly in his 5.5g tank :)

OR better yet: https://www.petsmart.com/fish/starter-kits/top-fin-essentials-aquarium-starter-kit-5262353.html (comes with bonus 50w adjustable heater too, so one less thing to buy)

Just be sure to mod the included filter like this: https://i.imgur.com/QYNiVEV.mp4

With these (or similar, but aquarium-specific) materials:

- https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-SPEC-Biomax-2-1-ounces/dp/B0049RNW96?th=1&psc=1

- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R38MMXG/

- https://www.amazon.com/Marineland-PA0100-Bonded-Filter-312-Square-Inch/dp/B0002565PW/

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OR better yet:

Here's my favorite sponge filter setup which I use in my own 5.5g tanks (they're rated for up to 20g and are nice compact sponge filters, so do not take away much space from your tank).

https://www.amazon.com/Powkoo-Double-Biochemical-Aquarium-Gallons/dp/B01M3VALFU/ My bettas (and I) LOVE LOVE LOVE THIS!!!

AND from Petsmart - I HIGHLY recommend the TopFin Quartz BioBalls ceramic filter media, the rounded pearl shape makes them fit a lot more into a small space such as the dual-media chambers in the sponge filter I highly recommended above. It looks like this in store: https://i.imgur.com/Xz50k5F.jpg (I think it's not yet listed on their website because the stuff is still a new release).

https://www.amazon.com/U-picks-Aquarium-Gallon-Quietest-Accessories/dp/B07RRNDMXJ/ Nice air pump with all accessories to set it up - quiet mini air pump, check valve, and airline tubing.

See it all in action: https://i.imgur.com/KAyjMaj.mp4 (not my tank but my friends when she was fishless cycling hers, and the sponge filter is nicely visible. Mine is hidden behind bunch of silk plants :< lol)

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND the above sponge-filter setup as it provides excellent filtration + is very gentle on the betta. (IF & when you get this filter + all the stuff to run it, let me know and I can walk you through the setup of it in full details at that time).

Your 3g tank, while it certainly wasn't the worst, is still well below the minimum tank size we recommend for betta here, which is 5 gallons. As I explained before, a smaller tank requires far more maintenance than a larger tank, and is also far less stable in the nitrogen cycle which can result in issues with water quality.

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I hope you'll start your next betta tank adventure with either the 5.5g or the 10g kit (or larger lol) and FISHLESS cycle. The Nitrogen Cycle and the Fishless Cycle - getting your aquarium ready for fish - INJAF

Must-Have items for your Fishless Cycling process + Additional Info:

https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI/ <--- ABSOLUTELY MUST HAVE, VERY IMPORTANT, liquid water parameters test kit. Three main things to check every-other-day: Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. Not cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, 0 Nitrate. Cycling in progress will read some ammonia and/or some nitrite, but little or no nitrate. Fully Cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, and 5-10 ppm of Nitrate, then when nitrate reaches 15-20 ppm in a cycled tank a water change is necessary to reduce said nitrates.

https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116012300-Stability-500ml/dp/B0002APIIW <-- Beneficial Bacteria blend, add 2x-3x the recommended amount of this directly into the filter, filter media, & tank water, especially after a water change. Add the bene-bacteria on a DAILY basis, for up to a week or longer if you like. Don't worry about "overdosing" on Bene-bacteria, the more the better when trying to kickstart a nitrogen cycle.

https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116043304-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O/ <--Best water conditioner, also temporarily binds ammonia into less harmful form.

Optional but might be good to consider getting: Dr. Tim's Ammonia (for fishless cycling)

In addition to what the previous poster said about cycling the tank before you get your axolotl(s), I recommend a canister filter for a 20g tank.
I use this one: Penn Plax Cascade 500 GPH Canister Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJIQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_z1TDybRH4D83H
It comes with a spray bar to help with aeration without disturbing your axolotl(s). I used a small hanging filter at first but it did not do the trick. Every time I chemically tested the water it was far from the correct conditions. The information for replacement filter media is either included or easy to find.

I also can't recommend this enough:
25 Foot - Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_P3TDyb818ZDDW
It attaches to a sink faucet (you will need a tool to remove the aerator on the faucet) and will both drain and fill your aquarium and save you a ton of time. It disturbs the water way less than lugging containers back and forth. My axolotls don't care about it at all, sometimes they would stay right in front of the tube as it was pouring water. They make different lengths, so measure the distance between your tank and sink before you purchase it. You'll want a little slack, of course.

Get a bottle of dechlorinator for when you do water changes. A digital aquarium thermometer is crucial for making sure the tank stays below 68°F. Having a separate container and a net is helpful in case you need to take the axolotl(s) out for salt baths, tank maintenance, or fridging.

Live plants are good for the tank's ecosystem but having some additional fake plants gives the tank a nice look. Make sure your live plants are either the floating kind or you have them secured because axolotls snuffle and bobble around and have a tendency to pull up your plants. If you feed them frozen bloodworms (as adults) it's helpful to have a clear turkey baster so that you can suck up the worms and feed them easily and make sure that the baster is always clean. Make sure you have something to clean up their poo, like a designated spoon or something.

I had sand for a while but it's a little hard to keep clean, so I removed all my sand recently and my axolotls seem to like it better. I replaced all their decor recently (because they're spoiled, lol) and one of mine really likes all of the new hides and the other really likes all of the new places to climb. They really like laying on top of their plants for some reason? So get sturdy plants I guess.

If your local temperature is hot and humid, you'll probably want to invest in (or build) some kind of chiller because evaporative cooling with fans won't work in high humidity. If it's hot but mostly dry, you might be able to get away with fans and an insulator (like this guy did: https://youtu.be/zp6QhXArIEY). I built one slightly better by using two layers of foam core instead of cardboard, and cut the sides of the four panels so they sort of puzzle-pieced together, making it easier to check on them.

I apologize for the lots of scattered info but I hope it helps!

I would highly suggest you stay away from the integrated kit approach and buy components. As someone currently trying to overcome an Eclipse system, the burdens far outweigh the benefit of integrations and ease. There's more than enough on getting adequate components here, and I would be happy to help you out with the decision, as would others.

Seeing as how you (thankfully) seem to like to take your time and do this right, I offer you some suggestions:

• Whatever tank you want. They're not going to have the greatest selection at Petsmart, but if you find something you like, get it. There's other places online that will ship the tank, but this is probably your best bet to get locally. Though the LFS isn't stocked very well, they might have a number of respectable tanks. Make this decision count-- you will be stuck with it for a long long time, and the ability for your tank to grow with your tools/abilities is crucial.
  
  
• Just pony up the money and get an Eheim Classic. For a 20G, you'll probably want to get this one. If you're getting anything larger than a desktop tank (and, BTW, that's a pretty good one), you'll need a real filter. This may seem excessive, but the dainty POS filters that come in kits ALWAYS wind up biting you in the ass. There are people here that are still using the same Eheim Classic that they purchased 15 years ago. It's a standard for a reason-- it's effective and reliable. Pay for it once and you'll never have to buy another unless you really move up in size. If you really don't want to go that expensive, the best bet is to stick with an Aquaclear filter. For the price, these things do a bang-up job!
  
  
• Just don't skimp on a heater. This will do you well, and it's not too expensive. You don't want your fish either roasting to death or accidentally freezing in the middle of winter. Hagen is a good brand to go to here.
  
  
• LED lights these days are great, and have hit a point where the ROI is seen far earlier than previously, and I'm talking about a year. When you get fluorescent tube fixtures, you use more power and have to replace the lights at least every year, and some replace them every 6mo. It depends on how much light you need, but again, I feel you need to recognize that you will grow with this tank, and buying a lighting system now that is cheaper but unable to grow plants will wind up costing you way more in the long run than just getting an LED fixture for 60% more that will last you years and require very little money after the initial purchase. For a first-time tank, I'd suggest a Marineland Singlebright if you really never envision yourself growing plants (which is half the fun in a tank these days), or a Marineland Doublebright if you'd like to grow plants and want an easy, cheaper option now. Know that those two fixtures are the lower end of the LED lighting bars, and you would do well with something like an Ecoxotic Stunner, where you can start with a fixture or two and then add on to the circuit later when you want more light for more plants. Also note the size of all of these fixtures have to be in line with the size of your tank-- there's no universal size.
  
  
• Note, also, that if your LFS sucks in the stock department, and Petco irks you as much as a lot of people here, there's many places where you can order fish and plants online. I haven't heard any horror stories with the big guys, so maybe check them out. Unfortunately, my LFS's are great, so I've never had to resort to these means. I've heard good things about aquabid, and really, you should join plantedtank.net and see what you can find either locally or on the buy/sell/trade forum. Also, joining a local aquatic org can open you up to a ton of CHEAP possibilities.
  
  Good luck. There's lot to research and plan, as well as to spend on, but getting a good setup is so rewarding and relaxing, that it pays back in spades.

So here's the proprietary pre-cut pads, course and fine I'd recommend the 6+2 option. If you're getting those I'd put the two blue coarse pads in the bottom of the lowest tray and put two fine on top of it (it should hold 4, but from research not all those pads are cut to the same specifications).

If you are handy with a pair of scissors or have a foam knife, you can always try cutting your own from sheets of foam. You search for the PPI (pores per inch) and get a few sheets of different PPI aquarium foam, the lower the number, the coarser the mechanical filtration. You could do 10ppi 20 ppi 30 ppi, or just 20 and 30. It's up to you really. Remeber if cutting foam by hand it's best to be a little too big than a little too small to prevent bypass.

In your next filter I'd put 1-2 more of the white pads, then you can either put a chemical media there or extra biological media. There are lots of options, I'll give you the names of them and instead of linking them, I'll include their general purpose in the aquarium.

Activated Charcoal - Used to adsorb organic molecules and medications. Works best for meds and to remove tannins. Quickly becomes deactivated so it's best when used as needed--don't just leave it in the filter.

Seachem Purigen - A rechargeable resin that absorbs organic molecules which lowers the ammonia production and therefore the bioload of the tank. It has very small beads, so you definitely want to get a fine mesh bag (e.g. Seachem's The Bag) if you're going to use it. I have it in every tank I keep. Some people have issues recharging it, just follow the manufacturers directions and you should be fine. Not as good at Tannins or medicine removing as Charcoal

Phos-Ban (or other phosphate absorbing resins) - Absorb extra phosphates and also silicates from your water column. Helps to fight algae. Works best when placed in a reactor, however, you will see some benefit even in a bag...and like all other chemical media you'll want a bag.

Ammo-Lock (or any ammonia adsorbing media like zeolite etc) - I keep some of this around in case I have an emergency cycle. Absorbs ammonia so can help to protect your fish if poop hits the proverbial fan.

For Biologic Media, you can just pick one of these:

Seachem Matrix

Eheim SubstratPro

I'm surprised actually how close they are in price right now, the Eheim is usually 40% more expensive. At those prices I'd probably lean towards the eheim.

There are lots of other brands, and with a tank your size a full liter of any of them would be more than enough. Remember, bio media doesn't mean you'll have an increase in the number of beneficial bacteria, just that they'll spread out more and become more effective.

Hope that helps.

Wow, thanks for taking the time to provide an in depth answer!

Im currently looking at this Fluval Spec V; though I cant tell if its version 1 or 2 (im thinking its the newer model, since Amazon lets you know if there is a newer version available).

In regards to plants, I have a leaf hammock and a plastic log, and I will be adding more (silk), but wont be ordering from amazon; im also looking to add driftwood and some live plants.

As far as live plants go, I think I understood that its better to cycle without them, as they could alter the process as they feed on ¿nitrate?. So I would add them later on. What do you think?

Id rather go with Seachem Stability, just because of the ease of measurring.

Ive since added Fluval Spec Carbon Filter replacement and Fluval Spec Bio Max.

Read on several websites that the current could be too strong for a betta, and the sponge cover seemed like an easy fix.

For substrate, I will most likely get gravel.; would love to have sand (too hard to care for as a begginer?) or ADA Africana (weight/cost).

Will check at my LFS for quality substrate, but have low expectations.

As for stock, I would like to add shrimp (ghost and/or RCS) but once my tank is established and settled. In reality, I would love to have Khukli Loaches (3) but general consensus is that a 5g is way too small.

Ill be looking into other bottom feeders (fish), but it doesnt seem I will be able to add them to a 5g.

Hows your setup, what do you have?

Correct, you don't remove/discard any part of the filter media except carbon once a month if you're using it. When you do your water changes, take the media out and swish it in your dirty tank water to clean off any goop and detritus, maybe squeeze it a bit so it doesn't drip, and put it back. In this filter I think you could fit a small bag of ceramic media and a piece of sponge if you're not using the cartridges designed for it. I usually buy the stuff made for AquaClear filters but you may need to buy a filter media bag (little mesh bags with a draw string, designed so you can customize what you put in your filter; I have found AquaClear brand at Petsmart before but you can find on Amazon and different aquatic retailers) because even the media sets for AquaClear 20's may be too large (if it were too large like I think, you could cut open the bag with ceramic media and dump into one of those mesh bags; I suspect about 3/4 of the amount for an AC20 would probably be about right for this filter). A sponge for an AquaClear could be cut down to size. If you can't find AquaClear stuff you can also look for Fluval branded stuff, it's the same thing.

You can also use filter floss that gets tossed every week to few weeks (as it gets dirty) to catch detritus as it comes into the filter; I use the plain poly-fil like is used for pillow stuffing, found in craft stores (make sure it has no flame-retardant chemicals if you go this route); I have used both the stuffing kind and the pad kind used in quilts, I find the pad kind a bit easier because I can cut to size and fold it up if needed. It probably wouldn't be as effective in this filter since it draws from the bottom, compared to a hang-on-back style where the water pours in from the top. It's definitely not required, but some people like it. I use it on my saltwater tanks a lot. Hopefully that all makes sense!

Before ammonia is added, you'll see 0's all the way across the board for ammonia/nitrites/nitrates (it takes a few days for flakes to break down to produce ammonia and they can be a bit messy; some people also use those mesh filter media bags or even a clean pantyhose to hold a plain grocery store cocktail shrimp or big pinch of fish food to start the cycle so that when it breaks down it doesn't make a mess). A bacterial supplement can help the cycle go faster but it's not strictly necessary; many people cycled tanks before those were developed! Pure ammonia is definitely the cleanest method of cycling a tank and one I had great success with last time I used it (for a saltwater tank but the nitrogen cycle works just the same).

And yeah, we don't have anything high end close to me, it's an hour plus drive to anything besides a little bitty Petsmart lol.

If you choose to continue using the cartridges but have the ceramic rings in there as well, then you shouldn't need to worry about swapping in a new cartridge when the old one is falling apart because there will be enough beneficial bacteria on the ceramic rings that you won't ruin the cycle.

If you don't plan to keep the ceramic rings then the best option is a small secondary filter, one driven by an air pump is a great option like [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000634IYU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498418773&sr=8-3&keywords=small+world+filter) or [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HHQ712/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498418909&sr=8-1&keywords=tetra+whisper+internal+power+filter+3i). This way you can alternate which filter you are cleaning.

And yes, always clean your filter media (whether it's a cartridge, sponge/foam, filter fiber, polishing pad, or the ceramic rings) in aquarium water. Best way to do that is remove some water for a water change and before you dump it rinse out the filter media in that container.

TBH I’ve been doing aquascaping for several years. This is the first time I’ve managed to successfully get the carpet and hair grass.

Here are a few pointers and pitfalls:

Pointer:
Use a soft, nutrient dense substrate. I use aquasolum black humate (a Seachem product).
Pitfall: Avoid using course gravel like Flourite. It’s too think and heavy which prevents the roots of a carpeting plant like hair grass from being able to spread runners and creating new growth sprouts. This was the single biggest reason all my other carpeting attempts failed. Black sand would work as well. Whatever it is, it needs to be soft enough for roots to be able to spread easily.

Pointer: Use quality lights. I use 2 x Kessill Tuna Sun lights. Those are crazy expensive and may be over your budget. I’m sure there are cheaper options.
Pitfall: Don’t use cheap lights which fail to produce adequate FULL SPECTRUM lighting.

Pointer: Use a filter that moves a lot of water like a canister filter. I use a Fluval 207.
Pointer: Use quality filtration media. The absolute best of the best is this Aquarium Filter Pad - Premium... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AHIOM8A?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Coupled with this

Polishing Filter Pad 100 Micron -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014G7WTRY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Pointer: Use CO2 injection. I use DIY CO2 and it works fantastically well. I use this
Estink DIY CO2 Generator Aquarium Plant System Kit D201 Tube Valve Guage Bottle Cap for Aquarium Moss Plant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCXOPKP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jHTPDbPFZBQHC
With this
ISTA Intense Flow CO2 Bubble Counter suction cup hanging - aquarium Solenoid diffuser https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RZZROHA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dKTPDbN38ASP5
With this
JARDLI Pollen Glass CO2 Diffuser with Bubble Counter for Aquarium Planted Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N36MAO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1HTPDbHP2BECM
With this
Milliard Citric Acid 5 Pound - 100% Pure Food Grade NON-GMO Project VERIFIED (5 Pound) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EYFKNL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uITPDbXA0Q9JE
With this
Arm & Hammer Baking Soda Unscented Box, Boxed 1 Lb. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YCILXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BJTPDb4VRBT2Z

Pointer: Use filtered water preferably from a reverse osmosis water dispenser. I own 4 x 5 gallon jugs which I fill up to use for any and all water changes.

Pointer: keep your water immaculately clean. Like 2 water changes per week which includes cleaning your filter media.

Pointer: don’t let any algae start to build up. I use a toothbrush to brush off algae growth from rocks and plant leaves.

Hope this helps. Happy to answer any other questions!

oh no prob lol! I use aquaclear biomax but there are a lot of other products just like this you can use, like bioballs, ceramic things, even lava rocks! If it's porous (or has a lot of surface area) it'll make a good bio media. You can also use an all natural sponge for super good fine particle and bio filtration!

Have you got the kit now? Most of these kits come with less than ideal filters. Ideally I would say buy a better filter, but you can very cheaply improve the one you have.

Most probably it comes with some kind of pouch that the manufacturer will tell you to replace every month. Throw that away, and get some sponge (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D2BHWLV/) and ceramic rings (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NRVLIU/). Cut the sponge to shape and put the ceramic rings above, ideally in a mesh bag to make cleaning easier, but not required. When you clean the filter, just rinse out the sponge in tank water and that is pretty much it.

The sponge and ceramic rings will make a nice place in your filter for the bacteria to live. If you replace the pouches every month, you are removing most of your bacteria.

This is the sponge filter I currently have - SPonge

This is what I was looking to get (not at all sure) - FIlter

I forgot the exact name of the catfish but I believe they are Panda Catfish - or look very similar. This is 1 https://imgur.com/OkgmIJj the other one look exactly the same but about half again as big.

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I hve 2 air pumps. 1 came with the 3 gallon tank set up I got on Amazon - see Here (just realized its a 3 gallon not a 5)

And then I purchased an air pump - Pump

And maybe I got the name wrong for the glofish, the pet store I could swore said neon tetra on the tank but I have those and definitely not that - https://imgur.com/8xNmjPi .EDIT- You can see them better in the OP picture if you click on it. Reason I ask is because my Betta was going after them the first day and they seemed SUPER chill. I haven't seen them try to nip at anything so far. Although its been 3 days. Also the catfish was in the tank w them so I figured they would get a long.

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OK so the guy in the petstore told me i can have up to 20 fish in the 10 gallon. It's a private store not petco or petsmart/petland etc. Is that not the case then? I don't want to crowd my tank I was just planning on getting 2 more colors of the "Glofish" and that was probably going to be it.

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Thanks!!

I'm using this I have only had it for about a week (my other one was leaking a tetra brand) but i like it much more because it's smaller than my other, and doesn't seem to cause very much disturbance to the surface; other than right around the filter area.

It was kind of hard to get the second (extra) set of suction cups on the back; because i didn't want to use the little hook for the back (that is what i was having problems with on my last filter) but once i got them in and got it stuck on it was SECURE :) in fact i had to slide it around to make adjustments because i couldn't get it back off >.< It is also very quiet and like i said much smaller and less of an eyesore than my previous! :)


TL;DR
I'd recommend this filter :)

EDIT
forgot some info :) i have a 3 gallon betta tank with an apple snail in there with him. these pics have the old filter in them, but i can get pics of the new one if you would like.

In a 55 gallon its best to go with 3 species at 1m/4f ratios. If you're a novice you should go with the beginner Mbunas (yellow labs, rusties, etc). Definitely do your research first and hopefully you have knowledgeable staff at your LFS to help you with your purchases. Pound for pound Mbuna are the most aggressive cichlids and its an absolute must to keep them in groups. For, a fully stocked 55 gallon Mbuna tank, I would recommend an Aquaclear 110 and a medium sized canister filter (Penn-Plax Cascade is a good economical choice http://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Cascade-Canister-Filter/dp/B0002DJ9NY ) ...and rocks, lots and lots of rocks.

Good luck!

Absolutely love them! Got a 4 pack from Amazon for like $14, each rated for 10 gallons, and they've been pretty great so far! It's also nice that they have two sponges each so I can easily set up a cycled emergency tank by taking a sponge from either of these tanks and adding it a clean new sponge to a third filter. :)

Hopefully I'll stop freaking out once I get past my first water change, but here we are.

First, does Kade look OK?
When he was hovering at the side of the tank, that black bit at the side of his gills moved like algae. But could he just have coloration in that spot? (It does look like he's getting some dark spots on his body as well.) I can't tell if his fins look better/worse/the same from when I brought him home, either. 😬

I'm making a few tank changes and I figure water change would be the best time to do them, but I don't want to stress him out too much. I'll have a new filter to install (filter, air pump, ceramic media , two kinds of padded media) and some of my plants definitely need pruning (and anchoring). And, of course, gravel vacuum.

Should I take him out into a temporary container while I do all this? Or will he be okay to stay in?

I mean, this is a pretty good deal imo. I don't think you should be dismissing and downvoting this post without doing the proper research. FYI did the math:

17lbs Seiryu rock - $32

Nano 511 Externa Canister Filter - $69

Jardli Glass Lily Pipe inflow and outflow - $49.90

JBJ Rimless 10 gallon - $159.99 cheapest I could find, it's 189.99 at petco

Glass lid - can't find one for 10g so I'd assume custom made $5+

GH & KH Test Kit & API Master Kit-$8.59 + $22.54 = $31.03

Tropica Aquarium Soil 3L - $49.60

5 Gallon Bucket w/ lid - probably like $3-5

Seachem Purigen - 2 packet is $19.49

Cleaning magnet - $5-20

Spider Wood - Depends like $10-25+

Siphon - depends probably $5-10

Test Strips - $5.22

• The bonuses he's providing like the aquascaping tools - probably $10+?
  
  By the way, these are all conservative numbers. The total comes to around $484.31, which is if everything is brand new. Even if some of the products are used, the cost is 52% off the conservative value of all the items in this package. So for the quality of the items here, I don't think it's a bad price at all. Now the question is, which items are new and which items are used?

I like air driven stuff for QT. Those little plastic box filter things are dead cheap and versatile (I stuff them with media from the big tank for an insta-cycle or zeolite chips if I'm doing an antibiotic treatment. Toss some carbon in there to get rid of meds after you're done). Sponge filters are nice too (best option for fry); although they're not as flexible. You can also use the various bits and pieces to pull double duty as emergency gear for the main tank (ie I can use the pump to run airstones if I need extra aeration on the quick (heat treatments, bacterial blooms, etc), the airlines work well for drip acclimation (get a little clamp or valve to allow you to adjust the flow) and the box filter plus a 10 dollar battery powered pump can keep your filter media alive and filtering (to an extent) during an extended power outage.

For air pumps, the el cheapo petsmart brand (Top Fin) is actually not complete garbage (they're not overly well made; but they work and they're surprisingly quiet... which is not to say they're actually quiet; but for a backup air pump I kinda like them. I have a bunch that get pulled out for various things). For regular use I tend to go with the nicer ones though (I have an eheim; which is pretty good. I also have a Tetra whisper 300 on the big tank that is also not bad).

Heaters I usually go with the Fluval M's. Not the cheapest ones out there; but one of the more reliable ones I've used. I've had enough heaters crap out on me to want to avoid the experience if possible.

Avoid the kits. They're a bit overpriced for what you get (to my mind); and they're not really targeted at QT tanks.

You can buy these types of things at a pet store (support your LFS - local fish store if you have one) but I generally get mine online. The polyester fill you speak of will also work perfectly fine, just be sure to rinse it well in dechlorinated water before use. Generally you just want to kind of mash it in to fill the space while not causing a flow problem - it isn't really an exact science.

Filter Floss Pad: http://www.amazon.com/Marineland-PA0100-Bonded-Filter-312-Square-Inch/dp/B0002565PW/

Bio-Media: http://www.amazon.com/Matrix-500-mL-17-oz/dp/B004PBD4J4/

I would stack things as follows:

[Filter intake flow]

[Filter floss (polyester fill or pad)]

[Bio-Media]

[Existing sponge]

[Filter output]

EDIT: I'll also second the recommendation of the aquaclear packs. They work well. Link here: www.amazon.com/Aqua-Clear-A1372-Aquaclear-50-Gallon/dp/B000A7BCG4/

/r/PlantedTank is a great resource.

And as long as the bowl is big enough to allow for enough substrate, you can dose fertilizers, CO2, and have lights just like a tank, there's really not much difference.

My go-to heater is the Hydor Theo, this is the heater I'm currently using in all my tanks including my bowl; I love it because it's pretty compact plus it is adjustable, so you can turn it higher or lower to suit whatever fish you're keeping or turn the heat up to treat certain illnesses.

For filters, basically the only thing that's probably out of the question are HOB filters since they can't fit on the rounded edge of the bowl, otherwise any small filter will do. A lot of people use sponge filters, which are great for a small tank. I currently use this corner filter which I hook up to an air pump and filled with my own filter media (ceramic media, Seachem Purigen, and filter floss).

For lighting, on my bowl I just have a clamp light with these 6500K 1600 Lumens CFL bulbs screwed in, which are the same bulbs I use for growing my terrestrial plants. Clamp the lamp to a shelf or some other surface near the bowl, not the bowl itself.

Hey all

Thanks to this sub and after a ton of research here and elsewhere, I finally got my first planted/aquascaped tank set up. This is an update to my hardscape post HERE

You’ll notice that I got a different rimless tank. I wasn’t happy with the number of stocking options a 5g tank was going to limit me to, so I found a slightly larger (and $$$) option. Also, now I’ve got an extra tank laying >:) I’m super stoked with how it turned out but I might setup CO2 in the future to get it to really pop. I’ll put specs for the tank below since I always find that helpful from other posters. Almost everything was bought through Amazon (since North America sucks for aquascaping materials):

Tank: Landen 10.7 Gallon Rimless

Light: Fluval Planted 3.0 Nano LED (Petsmart purchase)

Filter: Penn Plax Cascade 500

Lily Pipes: JARDLI Glass Lily Pipe

Heater: Tetra Submersible Heater 50W

Substrate: Fluval Stratum (Petco purchase)

Inert Substrate: Carib Sea ACS05839 Super Natural

Some kind of rock from my LFS, spider wood

Ferts:
Seachem Excel: .75ml every morning before the lights come on / Seachem Flourish: .75 ml twice a week

8 hours of light/day

Plants (sorry, I don’t know Latin names, and I’m lazy):
Java Fern, Anubias (of varying kinds), Java Moss, Christmas Moss, Dwarf Hair Grass, Micro Chain Sword, Crypts, Subulata (?) (the tall grassy one in the back right)

Livestock:
1 Dwarf Gourami, 5 Ember Tetras, 1 Otocinclus, 2 Ghost Shrimp (if they haven’t gotten eaten yet)

Thanks for the great suggestion!

It looks like the provided sponge/filter media is pretty subpar, so I wouldn't buy it without extra biomedia like an Aquaclear 20 sponge ($5 for the 3-pack or $1.50 if you buy a few things on Amazon at the same time) or a couple Fluval U1 foam pads ($1.50/each), or Aquaclear Biomax ($3). So, minus points for that added complexity/extra cost, but bonus points for low flow, adjustable intake, and included intake sponge!

I'll add it to the spreadsheet, I think I'll make a collection of suggested alternatives for each category. Thanks again!

Nope, you can definitely add even more plants! Bettas love heavily planted tanks as it mimics their natural environment. You may need to add some fertilizer, like flourish/excel or root tabs depending on the needs of the plants you have.
You will want a filter, probably a small sponge filter, so that you can build up some healthy bacteria to cycle your tank. I used this in my 2 gallon starter tank: Jardin Aquarium Fish Tank Mini Biochemical Sponge Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008FLWR0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HkRCCbVP1FZ3P
I also agree that you can cut back on the gravel so that there is more swim space. I try to use as little gravel as possible as it makes cleaning the tank easier.

The Fluval Spec 5gal and Fluval Flex 9gal are great looking all-in-one's and have nice large filter areas where you can add extra media and hide the heater. Build quality is good, lights are good enough to grow plants well and they are virtually silent. I own both of these tanks and I keep shrimp in the Spec 5. You will need to slightly modify the filter intake to prevent shrimp from getting into the filter area, I just cover the intake by gluing a square of black foam over it, it's barely noticeable and it works.

Purigen comes in two different types: Packed and loose. It helps with the clarity of the water and helps your water quality so it's a favorite among enthusiasts.

If you buy the loose, you'll have to make your own bag or buy a pre-made bag. A lot of people will do this so that they can have back-up bags ready for when they are recharging their Purigen(s). Personally, I have two packed bags since I run only one tank and it's pretty small.

You clean or "recharge" the Purigen when it becomes dark brown or black. You soak it in a mixture of 1:1 water and regular bleach for 24hrs, then soak it in water with 4tbsp of dechlorinator, and then there is a buffering step but I skip it.

In my 6.5 tank it took about 2 years for my Purigen to become a dark-ish brown.

In my small canister I have a couple of filter medias and the Purigen. Don't need anything else too fancy. YMMV as I don't know what kind of tank you are setting up :)

I use this. It works very well, and it's at the very least a name brand. You can add in a DI can if you need to for not very much money, if you don't get 0 ppm. I get 0 ppm every time, and we have 400 ppm source water from the tap. If you want to test, this is only $20, and it's great. Best shit you can get, without regard to the price. For home use, it's awesome.

The 50 gallon version makes it fast enough.

After reading up, max size 6 the Siamese is 6"! and 2" for the Otos... Probably going to get an Oto in there after the Siamese gets bigger. Although it seems like the Siamese does a better job of cleaning up, they are super active compared to the Otos I have at home.

Does that Aqueon take up much room in your Jar? I was looking at some other filters Sponge Filter and Lee's Triple Flow. Do you have any knowledge on these ones? I'm really hesitant to take up any more space in this jar.

I went for a simple look with 2 different plants. ( since I'm still learning )

• Eleocharis sp. 'Mini'
  
• Staurogyne Repens
  
  Light: Twinstar 360E https://buceplant.com/collections/aquarium-accessories/products/twinstar-led?variant=30249562445
  
  
  Tank: Ultum 5N https://buceplant.com/collections/uns-ultracleartanks/products/ultum-clear-rimless-tanks-by-ultum-nature-systems?variant=22809481665
  
  
  Co2 Regulator: GLA mini ss paintball http://greenleafaquariums.com/products/gla-mini-ss-paintball-co2-regulator.html
  
  
  Bubble Counter: GLA atomic bubble counter http://greenleafaquariums.com/co2-bubble-counters/atomic-bubble-counter.html
  
  
  Diffuser: GLA atomic diffuser http://greenleafaquariums.com/products/atomic-co2-diffuser-50mm-with-built-in-check-valve.html
  
  
  Drop checker: Cal Aqua pearl drop checker http://greenleafaquariums.com/products/cal-aqua-pearl-drop-checker.html
  
  
  Inflow: Cal Aqua influx X1 http://greenleafaquariums.com/products/cal-aqua-labs-influx-x1-13mm.html
  
  
  Outflow: Cal Aqua efflux F1 http://greenleafaquariums.com/products/cal-aqua-labs-efflux-f1-13mm.html
  
  
  Filter: Eheim 2211 https://www.amazon.com/Classic-External-Canister-Filter-Gallons/dp/B002DZNM4G
  
  
  Heater: Archaea mini aquarium heater 25w https://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/heaters/products/copy-of-archaea-mini-aquarium-heater-25w-ultra-slim
  
  
  Algae Inhibitor: Twinstar M3 https://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/water-testing-treatment/products/chemicals-product

It's not alot of water, maybe 30 to 40 gallons max? , perhaps find a cheap cannister filter online.

That's likely most hassle free for indoors.

https://www.amazon.com/Cascade-CCF3UL-Canister-Filter-Aquariums/dp/B0002DJ9NY

Look at some of those, there has to be a cheap and cheerful option available out there. First figure out how much water the planter will hold and buy a filter with pump that will turn the water 2 to 3 times an hour if you plan to add fish.

If not that maybe build an l-shaped bog style filter in a planter to fit in the corner behind it.

$80 for a great canister filter. EHEIM Classic 2211 External Canister Filter with Media for up to 40 US Gallons https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002DZNM4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Fm0IzbTFVRD78

Haven't used aquaclear but since I got my canister filter I have bought 4 more and never considered getting a hang on back again. The splashing if the water level isn't perfect really annoys me. The only benefit I see in a hob is ease of maintenance but a canister filter can go much longer between maintenance.

i use ceramic rings (link) and filter floss (link). cheap, lasts forever and works super well :)

Well regardless of what it is out of the suggestions (I personally think it's a tetra), a cheap starter home would be a 10g tank. The tank should be $10-$20 locally, not worth buying online due to shipping cost.

Get a heater, which can be had for cheap on Amazon if you have a temporary solution for a couple days, same goes for an air-powered sponge filter.

A 20 gallon tank is a great investment, you could keep this guy plus others of his species long-term in a 20 gallon. The 10 gallon may be cheaper and easier to buy, depending on your circumstances, which is why I mentioned it. For example most Walmarts have 10 gallon tanks but not always larger.

If you're not familiar, read up on "aquarium cycling" in the sidebar of this forum. Basically, you can learn to test for toxins in the water that will harm fish and change/add clean water when needed. And eventually, the tank will develop friendly bacteria that digest these waste products for you, reducing necessary water changes. If you aren't familiar with these concepts, it would be helpful for your existing goldfish too.

Okay, so it doesn’t sound like you’re vacuuming the gravel. Detritus will build up down there and turn into nitrates. Those nitrates are being used up by the algae before you can test for it. Get yourself a gravel siphon, and vacuum about half the gravel (you don’t want to make really big changes to water conditions quickly). Wait a week. Vacuum the other half. Keep up weekly water changes. If your a little less patient, you can add a sponge filter like this: https://www.amazon.com/Jardin-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter/dp/B008FLWR0M but it isn’t necessary.

In a small tank like yours, I would NOT use algae killing products because it’ll add a bunch of organic matter to your tank and cause a nitrate/ammonia spike and possible loss of oxygen from decomposition. Let your water changes slowly export out the algae, and the waste that is fueling its growth. Nothing good in aquaria happens quickly.

If you are vacuuming the gravel, then my second thought would be what is in your sponge?? Is it a kitchen sponge? Use a glass scraper instead of a sponge, and siphon out the material.

After that... I would start suspecting things like your water. Some tap water may have contaminated that fuel algae growth. So you might have to get a good carbon block filter for your tap water (or run it through a brita filter) before you put it in your tank.

Fluvial stratum for the substrate and black diamond blasting sand for the middle. Can’t say much about my substrate yet, but it hasn’t made the water murky or tannic. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JMA9S52/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The glass pipes are called Lilly pipes and they’re really snazzy. I’m happy with the purchase https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FJI2U7S?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

Check this: (But make sure your tubings match)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000256CGY/ref=asc_df_B000256CGY5160406/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B000256CGY&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167116240456&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=180843223943553038&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004338&hvtargid=pla-305618825890



Personally I like the Ehiem Skimmer (or any brand) for the added flow in the tank. But if the canister is providing enough flow then the passive skimmers are good.

I can recommend some surface skimmers for the sump, I am using the Eheim Skim 350 on a reef tank and it works great. I have added filter floss on top of the normal sponge filter. It has a slider to control the flow of the pump also controlling how fast it'll skim the surface.

Another option can be the Fluval Surface Skimmer which is dirt cheap and can be added to any filter intake/pump.

I would choose the Eheim one and add it to a timed plug so it runs for 15 minutes a day or something like that. It does wonders.

I recommend this filter. My girls love hiding on top/behind it, and the flow is adjustable so it's not too strong for them. Keeps water really clear. I also had to get these to replace the top fin filter
I use two for my 10 Gallon.
Penn Plax Small World Filter Unit and Replacement Cartridge for Small Tanks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000634IYU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_diU9YLo5YhDas

I've been thinking of improving the performance of my filter, which is an Aquaclear 50. I bought this on Amazon with the idea that I'd use those to filter out all the physical particles before they hit the sponge media. Then I wanted to replace the biological media with a higher quality product, and I thought this looked good.

Does anyone have opinions on whether this is a solid idea? Also what order should it be? I read somewhere that the biological media shouldn't be exposed to air, so should I put order them 1. filters 2. Biological 3. Sponge filter. Obviously I'm going to stagger out the replacement so I don't lose all my bacteria.

I added another pipe from the overflow to the sump like a month ago and that really help the flow
for the filter pad, i used 3 layer of this
whenever the overflow clog up (about a week or so) i just rinse out the filter pads and it would be good for another week. In hindsight, with fish, I probably just need to rinse it out every 3 days or so
Thanks for the advice

Thanks for the reply, I appreciate the info. I ended up purchasing this tank with a 50W heater. I'll look into dosing liquid CO2 and will definitely get a turkey baster

I have owned 2 SunSun 70x filters over the last few years. While they work great at first eventually they both developed leaks around the top. Both times the leaks started right after a filter cleaning, which I only did maybe every 3-4 months. I spent a lot of time trying to diagnose the leaks but never got anywhere. I wouldn't recommend them unless you're OK with it happening eventually.

After my second one started leaking after a filter cleaning I purchased this one as a replacement. It has been going solid so far and seems to be a higher quality design.

So, so each of those sleeves is something different. Chemical, biological and mechanical filtration. I'll go over each quickly (apologies, this is more than you asked :P)

1. Mechanical. This is normally a sponge/mesh or something similar. It catches things like leaves, bits of food, etc.
   
   
2. Chemical. This is Activated Charcoal. It's an agent that binds to just about anything and is used to remove any impurities from the water. Most aquarists do not use charcoal past the cycling phase of their tank. The reason is because it's not necessary (see below) and because because it binds with EVERYTHING, it will actually remove some good stuff from your tank along with the bad. If you keep replacing it, your tank will be crystal clear, but you have to keep up with it and it's not "stable" in the sense that biological filtering is.
   
   
3. Biological. This is the bacteria that lives in your tank. This is "the cycle" that processes the nitrogen cycle in your tank. This is what is necessary to preserve.
   
   So what I've done with most of my tanks is take those pre-fab things out and just put these in the main compartment. The whole point is just to have a base for the bacteria to grow on so they can do the job of filtering your tank. This is all I run in my tanks, from my 20 up to my 165.
   
   Now, you can do what you've been doing, that's fine and that'll work. But this way is cheaper and more effective, imo. If you DO go this route, you need to get those things get established before you swap them out. Get a media sock and just let them sit on the bottom of your tank for a month or so. Then, you can take out those sleeves and just drop as many of the ceramic things in as will fit.
   
   If you go this route, when you clean the filter, take the rings out and set them aside. Rinse out the main body and put the rings back. If they are REALLY dirty, you can rinse them too, but they don't tend to accumulate much.

Yea it's really just filter media with a ton of surface area. Going to just toss it on the bottom and place racks over them. . I'm using some of this eheim.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002JEL0O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480656060&sr=8-1&keywords=eheim+substrat&pi=SY200_QL40

Wanted to use
http://www.cermedia.com/marinepure.php which has 240ft of surface area per 1 1/2 in ball. 5 gallons is supposed to have the same surface area as 2 football fields lol.

For pumps I'm using cheapo one of Amazon that is insanely strong and then a jebao to actually get some variation in current

Umm... not quite sure on the large plants name but the other is just a marimo moss ball... i have a a cheap desk lamp from ikea with a 4w LED bulb in it, but the tank does get natural sunlight as it is at the window. Good luck with your setup. Also the filter is a Marina i25.

Edit: wrong name of moss ball...

Link to exact filter.

The filter has bubbles going through it towards the top. I had a beta in the tank and read that this filter provides minimal current.

Good points. If I want plants, do I have to have a special light?

can you remove the tag= part of the amazon link? It's an amazon affiliate tag, and we don't want random people benefiting from links shared on our sub.

edit: a "clean" link, (like this: http://www.amazon.com/3IN1-BIO-SPONGE-Biochemical-Sponge-QUACLEAR/dp/B00VPL0V0W/) is always safe

Naruto mostly, maybe the Switch cover (don't have one but it's a planned future purchase)

I'm thinking that $25~ would be fair for a pre-seeded corner sponge filter (looks like this one), a Marina internal power filter plus four new cartridge refills, and a heater

Yeah it's pretty cheap and works well. With the resin cartridge which is optional, tds of my city water goes from 750 to 0.

Aquatic Life DI Color Changing Mixed Bed Resin Cartridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DSP57BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2gnSBb9EY4J02

You do have media in those baskets and not just sponges?

In the bottom basket you should have some type of ceramic rings or whatnot for coarse filtration. The coarse sponge goes on top of that, Then in the top two baskets you should have biological filtration media, such as Eheim Substrat Pro. On top of that put your fine floss pads. Don't bother with the carbon. Also do water changes because eco-complete and flormax have a lot of fine dust in them.

Haha, I'm so glad it helped. I took a look at that after I wrote it last night, and I was like "man, apparently I have opinions about sponge filters." Don't know if you've bought that four pack yet, but I found a cheaper one for you. There's a couple that are Prime too, if you look.

Don't forget to get some air control valves so you can control the amount of fizziness.

I really should make my user flair "needlessly verbose" or something. 😅

wow so maybe I could post the link, yeah? smh at myself

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRIQW7K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I have a 2.5 g with cherry shrimp and a filter. To be completely honest, it’s been tough. The water parameters can be kind of unpredictable and it takes a lot of work. I’ve had a lot of shrimp deaths because i accidentally put in too much food one time, or because I had a shrimp die and didn’t see their body among the plants and couldn’t remove it in time, resulting in an ammonia spike. This isn’t to deter you from your jarrarium!! Just keep in mind that it’ll be much easier on you to get a bigger tank for the shrimp.

I use a filter similar to this one.

Good luck!

Well, if you want more than just a betta, go with the s15. I'll link you to everything I bought. S15 is two bucks cheaper with prime. I have prime, if you don't then just choose another seller. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0032G8TQQ?cache=06ba174150f5f99c861821c037a5d14d&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1408422793&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1 Here's foam for mechanical: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002AQK4S?cache=06ba174150f5f99c861821c037a5d14d&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1408422856&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2 Here's bio media: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000A7BCG4?cache=06ba174150f5f99c861821c037a5d14d&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1408422856&sr=8-7#ref=mp_s_a_1_7 And then use a knife or a scissor and cut off all the foam of the three cartridges that come with it. Use that as filter floss, and layer it. I used the white balls that are inside the cartridges, as they promote bacteria growth. I added all of those from the cartridges, then the cloth from the cartridge, so it didn't float away, and then I added charcoal (skip this, if you want, I just wanted the tank to be clear while cycling, I'm gonna take it out soon) then the rest of the floss. All that is where the water comes into. Then I added bio max in the first compartment, then in the last two, the foam for the aqua clear. The motor is underwater, and I can't hear a thing! Like you have to strain your ears trying to listen, and its a barely audible him. My bio wheel, was clunky and was loud. Bearable loud, but loud non the less. And just put the last sponge of the three on the outtake, so current will be dispersed. Buy a heater too, and then the tank.

O wow don’t even think about this style of pump.

How many watt is that motor is strong enough?

I saw what I think is the same one in amazon and some ppl mentioned is weak about 5watts.

I also found this one way more $$

Penn Plax Cascade 500 GPH Canister Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJIQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zDy8Cb8B215N4

Not sure how many watts it the cascade.

Or you say that SunSun is all I need?

Reverse osmosis filter. It won't be "distilled", it is a different process, but the result is the same: pure water.

I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DOG64FM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1463320260&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=Reverse+osmosis+buddy&dpPl=1&dpID=41CF6VoMfQL&ref=plSrch

That filter alone will get you down to <10 ppm. If you want a true 0ppm add this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DSP57BQ/ref=pd_aw_fbt_199_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0WBK1VWBQ66162AS1ET3

It isn't quick, it will take at least 12 hours to fill your barrel, but it works well.

I just finished up a fruit beer a couple weeks ago. To filter out the particles I used an aquarium micron bag and clamped it onto the end of the hose with one of these. All in all, it worked out pretty well.

That filter is listed as up to 55 gallons. So if you're putting it on a 60 gallon its a bit underpowered.

Looks like even the 55 gallon one only has two media baskets which seems pretty low for a filter for a tank that large. For a similar price you can get a filter rated higher, with higher flow, and more media baskets HERE

The Marineland magniflow in a 55 gallon capacity is also a similar price.

​

As for priming. Do you mean cycling or just getting water into it?

With that size I would look at maybe two things:

A cube aquarium with a sponge filter could look really nice.
https://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Masters-Invertebrates-Tropical-AM11443/dp/B01N2NOFO5

For an all in one system, both Fluval Flex tanks will fit, even though I don't like the bow front look.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Flex-57-Gallon-Aquarium/dp/B01MRIQW7K?th=1

Im not sure but maybe something like this or this or even this?

I will second the Penn Plax recommendation. Great balance between cost, performance, and reliability. If you really want a cheap canister though grab a sunsun. They work well enough, but are lesser quality which may cost more in the long run.

Cascade 500

Sunsun

Things you need:
API Master Test Kit, Prime and Stability. EVERY DAY you have to change 20-25% of your water, add Prime and then add your Stability (Shake it up) right into your filter. Maybe it's your filter? What kind are you using? If you add a bio sheet sponge, it will cycle faster as the bacteria actually will grow 1000X faster in that than a carbon cartridge. Here are the sponges http://www.amazon.com/3IN1-BIO-SPONGE-Biochemical-Sponge-QUACLEAR/dp/B00VPL0V0W/ref=asc_df_B00VPL0V0W/?
Keep your water at 80 degrees...If you use gravel, that also helps as a space for BB t grow as well. I cycled all my tank in about 7-10 days doing this.

Yes carbon will remove plant fertilizer. I got this filter media a few weeks ago and added it to all 5 of my tanks. I used an old filter and cut it the same size the new stuff the same size. I haven't changed them yet and my tanks are honestly clearer than ever.

>https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-SPEC-Biomax-2-1-ounces/dp/B0049RNW96/

Petsmart carries the biomax 20 (Aquaclear brand as well as Fluval) which is small enough that I've managed to shove it into my 5.5gal HOB filter along with the filter floss and a sponge with relative ease.

https://smile.amazon.com/Aquaneat-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-XY-2831/dp/B06XZZ2BXY/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=sponge+filter&qid=1567390654&s=gateway&sr=8-5

I use these filters and this pump

https://smile.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Easy-Aquariums-Non-UL/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=17VOB87VMMJW7&keywords=tetra+whisper+air+pump&qid=1567390717&s=gateway&sprefix=tetra+whisper+%2Caps%2C211&sr=8-1

I also recommend using a check valve

https://smile.amazon.com/Patelai-Pieces-Valves-Device-Aquarium/dp/B07H33NN41/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=check+valve+airline+tubing&qid=1567390757&s=gateway&sr=8-6

1. Not cycled, I'm doing a fish in cycle that's about 2 weeks in. I'm using Seachem Stability to accelerate the process.
   
2. Nitrates: 0, Nitritates: 0, pH: 7.5, GH: 40
   
3. I do about 50%-70% water changes every 2-3 days, and vaccum the substrate every time. I have a bunch of small rocks as substrate.
   
4. Nothing
   
5. I'm using this filter with this sponge and this biomax
   
   Thanks.

I have an open top on a 55, its actually eggcrate because I am afraid of fish jumping out. Evaporation is not a problem at all. Id say I lose a quarter inch a week maybe. The best part about an open top is when its a little low I just top it off with a pitcher, I just dump it right through the eggcrate. However, I did have a problem with dust collecting on the film on the top, even with a spraybar. I bought this skimmer attachment and now everything is crystal clear LINK

It's not a full replacement, it attaches to the main intake tube. You would remove the extension and replace it with the tube from the skimmer. The box to my Aquaclear 50 says Fluval on it so I would assume they're compatible. You can get free shipping on Amazon if you have Prime.

I recommend a sponge filter for a shrimp tank, so no babies get sucked in to the filter. Though if you want an HOB filter or canister you can always put some sponge over the intake.

Amazon has good options for sponge filters, I got this a few weeks ago and put one in each of my tanks. I plan on removing my HOB to go 100% sponge filter after a month or so. They also sell some that have biomedia attached to the sponges.

For some low-med light plants, the ones I have doing well in my tank (no co2, no ferts) are java fern and moss, vallisneria, dwarf sagittaria, anacharis, and hornwort

These are pretty nice, I use them on my tank.

I use the sponge part + the bio ball things. I currently do not have carbon in my filter as I am adding CO2. If you have those bio ball media things from your old filter throw some of them in the new mesh. So yes you can run your filter without carbon in it, in fact I think most people don't run with carbon. here are the bio balls i am talking about.

You could also cut off some of the sponge from your old one or something (not sure about this never done it or read up about it)

Carbon can remove much than tanins from the water - not always a bad thing but not always good either. As for how quickly it works, in my experience it is fairly quickly often with 24 hours.

But if you just want to remove the tea color from the water perhaps think about using Purigen and be sure to get this bag if you buy a bottle of it.

I can't answer questions on sand maintenance, since I dont have sand in any of my tanks yet. However, I normally get all of my substrates (and the vast majority of everything else) through Amazon.

This is one of the highest rated sands I've seen/heard of. I'm using their gravel in a tank I'm currently cycling, and I would recommend it, so I don't see why their sand would be any different.

It normally takes a day or two longer to ship substrate than normal, even with prime, but the three or four times I've ordered substrate, it's usually ended well.

Edit: Also, only slightly related, I'm not sure how big your tank is, or what your stocking levels are, or your budget, but if you're looking for an affordable canister, the Penn-Plax Cascade 1000 is rated for tanks up to 100 gal, and it's only $70. I have their 500 (up to 30 gallons) for a 20 gallon tank, and it's incredible.

What kind of filter do you recommend? I bought the Marina i25 for my little guy, and he's in a 5 gallon tank, but it really seems like it's flowing too hard, and it seems like if I leave him unattended, it'll suck him into the bottom. There doesn't appear to be any sort of flow control.

I had the same problem with my tank after my live plants had been going a while and I added a Surface Skimmer and it's now crystal clear. They are well worth it. http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A240-Hagen-Surface-Skimmer/dp/B000256CGY/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1409790073&sr=1-2&keywords=aquarium+surface+skimmer

Filter http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008986EQO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421121421&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=31fg9kdaJ9L&ref=plSrch

1st level http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B50UPE0

Put this on top of the other floss http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002HBLUE

2nd level http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002Z7VAK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421121104&sr=8-1

3rd level http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000R31KH2

With http://www.amazon.comgp/aw/d/B0006JLVUI inside of http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002X6F7AW put on top of the other media

4th level 2 packs of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NRVLIU

Here is my layout, if I were to redo it I would have made the last 3 eheim pro. For the media I would have used the floss it came with at the bottom just rip it vertically, then foam, then the fine floss.

Overall I rate it 4.5 out of 5, sometimes it is hard to prime.

Not a bother at all! If you are talking about the left side, it’s called a lily pipe. I bought them on amazon.

JARDLI 13mm Plant Aquarium Glass Lily Pipe Inflow and Lily Pipe Outflow for 12/16mm Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FJI2U7S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-qvKDbJJGG95D

I say just get a canister, they're pretty simple and do a better job in my experience. I've been using mine for 6 months and no problems

Cascade CCF3UL Canister Filter, 100 Gallon, 265gph https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJ9NY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bJYpybKQSQWYH

Filter
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008986EQO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421121421&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=31fg9kdaJ9L&ref=plSrch

1st level
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B50UPE0

Put this on top of the other floss
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002HBLUE

2nd level
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002Z7VAK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421121104&sr=8-1

3rd level
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000R31KH2

With http://www.amazon.comgp/aw/d/B0006JLVUI inside of http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002X6F7AW put on top of the other media

4th level
2 packs of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NRVLIU

Take a look at the [Penn Plax Cascade 1000](http://www.Cascade.com/ CCF3UL Canister Filter, 100 Gallon, 265gph https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJ9NY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MDgSCb7X1B8MF). I have two of them and they've served me well for over a year.

You might consider changing to a canister filter. It will remove tons more waste. Amazon has some cheap ones that are actually very good.
Lots of people with turtles in the comments on this one
Cascade CCF3UL Canister Filter, 100 Gallon, 265gph https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJ9NY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kZGQCbZADV6E8

Can also use polyester fiberfill or quilt batting and make/cut your own filters.