(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best aquarium test kits

I'm sorry you're getting a terrible reaction here. It seems like you had good intentions and tried to deal with the situation you were handed the best you could.

That said, there are steps you can take to improve the life of your next fish, and seeking answers in a betta forum is a good thing to do. It shows that you want to do the right thing and want to learn.

Yes, a bowl as big as you can handle is a good thing. If you can get at least a 2.5 gallon, that would help a lot. It doesn't sound like the friend who gave you the fish was very responsible at all, especially if they made fun of you for (doing the right thing) and getting a bigger bowl than they had.

For conditioning water, try Seachem Prime. It's the water conditioner I've used and been happy with for almost two years for my 10 gallon. It likely addresses more issues than just the betta conditioner, including a slime coat, ammonia, chlorine/chloramine, and nitrates/nitrites. It's also great because I only have to use 5-6 drops per gallon, so it ends up really cheap in the long run.

Did your betta have a heater? Bettas need heaters because they are tropical fish. Most tiny bowls and flower vases don't have a heater, and that's part of why they're so bad. Think of how lizards and snakes like to bask under heat lamps and on warm, sunny rocks. If your betta was slowing down and not moving, that's a sign of being too cold.

A filter should keep the water clear, and I suggest not doing 100% water changes. Little, frequent changes are much easier for a betta to handle, especially if the tank is not cycled (by cycled, I mean a tank that has established colonies of bacteria to break down waste). Small tanks usually can't maintain a cycle, so those small, frequent water changes are important.

How did you clean the decorations? I don't recommend cleaning those because there and in the gravel are where your good bacteria live that help break down waste. A small tank might not be able to maintain a full cycle, but you don't want to keep rinsing away whatever bacteria you do get.

Water testing kits like this and this would be a good way to monitor your tank. They help you know when your water is good for your betta, and having test results help with diagnosing a problem, especially if you ask in a sub like this one.

Do you have any live plants in your tank? A moss ball is really, really easy to care for and works well in a betta tank. It just sits there on the gravel, improving water quality, making your fish happy, and looking neat.

Good luck with your next betta! Learning over time what works and doesn't work is a part of being a betta keeper.

I guess you could say it's a meme, it's original intent is to comedically understate something. It's like the equivalent of saying "Nice weather we're having, eh?" in the middle of a rainstorm. It's like shorthand for saying "That seems like a good card/play." when they already know that it was an excellent card/play. When used correctly you would hear this most often when someone gets unexpectedly blown out.
For example, let's say both you and your opponent have lethal attackers, but your opponent gets to attack first and thus would win. They swing with everything and you cast [[Settle the Wreckage]]. They look through their hand, look at their board, sigh, and say "Yeah, seems good!"
There will be times when you hear people say this when it seems like the situation doesn't call for it, like when you play a turn 1 creature. In this case they may be using the meme in a meta sense; a turn 1 creature is literally just "good," and by using this phrase they're making fun of how the phrase is usually used ironically to indicate something much better than good. Another example would be playing a land on turn 1 and passing, saying seems good is a joke at that point.
Alternatively they may be a whiny crybaby and actually think that if their opponent plays a turn 1 creature then the game is practically over and they might as well concede. If you're not sure you should pick up some of these to help you determine which situation you're in.

actually dont change the pads often at all. i wait till they actually start to fall apart. this helps to develop a good bacteria eco system. i recommend geeting a aquarium siphon. its atool that will make water changing a large tank way easier. so you can just suck out the water and vacuum up debris in the tank.
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11123493
If you wanna get different fish get tropicals. way more options i think. platies, tetras, angelfish, danios, plecos. get a heater and a thermometer.

make sure and get a good test kit to monitor ammonia levels. liquid kits are more accurate. but i recommend that you get test strips if you are inexperienced and practice with the liquid. This way if you have not mastered the liquid testing you can use the strips to alert you to any problems. http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Products-Ammonia-Strips-Freshwater/dp/B0002Z7UTM

i would also get some actual substrate (gravel) and some live plants helps keep water clean and improves the look and healthy of fish and water quality.

as far as crystal clear water. yes as water quality improves it will be more clear. it also has to do with the lights and backgrounds in a lot of our tanks too ;)

This is a great tank! From what I can see he has vibrant colors and healthy fins. If Caboose is 10 months old; his current living conditions are maintained, he will live to the full potential of his life span which is 4 to 5 years. Make sure he has enough space at the top of the tank to surface and "breathe", which is important to prevent infections in his labyrinth organ (an organ evolved for absorbing CO2 and oxygen from the air.)

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I like the idea of more plants, if I may give some suggestions? Floating plants in my experience are very good for Betta fish and really most fish in general! It allows me to 'filter' out the light so it isn't shining directly into the tank which may become too intense and stress fish out. Salvinia or 'water moss' is a personal favorite, I also like duckweed, and water lettuce. However you have to be careful because plants like these, especially duckweed, will grow really fast and has to be trimmed a lot.

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Useful links to you I have on hand;

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Cheap API testing kits

Expensive API testing kit (I highly recommend this one)

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https://www.aquariumcoop.com/

https://www.thegreenmachineonline.com/

https://www.fishkeepingworld.com/

https://www.liveaquaria.com/

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If you want to make it all much easier, just get the ten gallon tank and then get him to squeeze his filter sponge into your filter. If you do that and wait a few weeks you should be ready to rock. You could even add the fish right away if you can commit to testing the water every day. You only need two things for testing the water.

5-in-1 strips

And ammonia strips

And one thing to fix it.

Basically, the squeeze from your friends tank will give you the bacteria you need. Putting a fish in will give those bacteria something to eat (fish poop breaking down) until the bacteria colony is fully established. pH isn't a real issue with bettas as long as it stays roughly the same.

You just have to use both test strips every day, if anything spikes (nitrites will spike right before you are done) then change the water 30% and replace it with new water treated with that dechlorinator. A couple weeks in, all of the sudden you won't be getting any ammonia, you will have no nitrites, and you will have just a little nitrate meaning you are done. From then on just test and replace a gallon of water per week (always using dechlorinator).

The heater is the easiest thing! Most are set up to automatically sit at 78 degrees which is perfect for a betta. They like still water so if you can, grab an internal filter like the Whisper 10i. It moves the water less.

I'm fairly new at this, so if anything up there is inaccurate someone please chime in!

The plants starting with the back are Pearlweed. The carpet is Dwarf baby tears

Sure!

It's a 10G tank. I wish I would have known about rimeless tanks before I got into planted tanks.

Also first I regret not doing a dry start method with my dwarf baby tears (I didn't know about it when I started)

10 gallon tank.

Substrate: Fluval Stratum

Lighting: Finnex Planted + 24/7 (lights are on a timer for 7 hours a day)

Co2: 20lb co2 tank, GLA GRO-1 regulator, co2 tubing and a 30mm Atomic diffuser from GLA. (Co2 is on 30 min before lights, and 30 min before lights turn off)

Ferts: Seachem flourish and excel (I dose whenever I remember, maybe once or twice a week haha)

Drop checker: generic drop checker from Amazon (this one Aquatech CO2 Glass Drop Checker W/ 4DKH FLUID https://www.amazon.com/Aquatech-Glass-Drop-Checker-FLUID/dp/B01AVY7K20)

Filtration: National Geographic CF30 (with a sponge on the intake so the shrimp aren't sucked in) I also have it torqued down in flow, at full power it would blow away the shrimp, or at the very least make me uncomfortable in the flow rate being too high.

Temp: generic 10G heater and a generic thermometer (heater is barley used since my temp is usually between 65°-80°F)

When it does get too hot (for me, over 76°F) I have a Jebo quad aquarium fan which will cool the tank to 69°F if i leave the fan on.

The plants were bought from either my lfs or online. Other than all this, time was the major factor. This tank took me 8 months to get to this point. From complete beginner to planted tanks to this high tech tank and my 36G low tech (https://imgur.com/7qjQ7ag) I feel comfortable in doing a iwagumi next and expand my skills! Lmk if you need any help!!

Update: I really need some advice. The fin rot seems to be slowly getting worse/not really getting better, and my 5.5 gallon tank is still nowhere near cycled (the ammonia just spiked, and I purchased a master test kit so I can test for other levels.)


I've been doing water changes of about 50% every other day now. Is this enough or too much? There are some short clear bits that appear to be fin regrowth at the end of her fins and tail, but above the regrowth there are still portions that look like they're receding. I've been adding in Prime whenever I do a water change.


How much salt can/should I be dosing the tank with weekly?


I was reading online that some people do fish-in cycles with TSS and treat the water with prime to stop the fish from feeling the effects. It sounds like a bad idea since Beatrice has fin rot, but I'm getting really concerned and I really want her fin rot to start healing, especially by now. All of your help is greatly appreciated!

First-timer in over his head here. Could use an assist with setup. The ultimate goal is setting up something my (soon-to-be) 2 year old daughter will enjoy watching.

Planning on purchasing:

Tank & Stand: Aqueon 45G tank ensemble - $250

Light: LED - Included with tank

Filter: MarineLand Penguin 200 Power Wheel - $21

Heater: Orlushy Submersible Aquarium Heater 150W - $18

Python: Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System - $40, 24 inch adapter - $10, [hook] (https://smile.amazon.com/Python-Spill-Aquarium-Gravel-24-Inch/dp/B004PBHX4G/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2/146-3053739-1242457?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004PBHX4G&pd_rd_r=42a7c2bc-877d-414d-b0c9-2960fa629e40&pd_rd_w=q7tkK&pd_rd_wg=fjx36&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW&psc=1&refRID=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW) - $20, and this adapter for my non-threaded faucet - $12

Conditioner: [API Water Conditioner] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $7

Bacteria: [API Quick Start] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $4

Test Kits: [API 5-in-1 Test Strips] (https://smile.amazon.com/5-IN-1-AQ-Test-Strips-100CT/dp/B077YS7Y4Y/ref=sr_1_3?crid=VPPBFJ1NJSMG&keywords=api%2Btest%2Bkit&qid=1567987538&s=gateway&sprefix=api%2Btest%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-3&th=1) - $26

That takes me up to $408. That leaves me about $100-150 in the budget my wife gave me to get decorations and the fish themselves. (It was supposed to be $500, but we always go slightly over budget)

Any recommendations on large and colorful fish that could attract and keep a toddler's attention? Preferably peaceful.

Any other recommended tweaks to the build? I haven't purchased anything yet, so I'm willing to completely scrap this and start over if somebody has a better idea of how to use the money.

As I'm sure you already know, Plant growth and health is limited by 3 factors on a sliding scale. Light, nutrients, and co2. If any of them are not present it inhibits the plant's ability to uptake the other two. I struggled for a very long time in my 20 gallon until I CONSISTENTLY provided all 3.

• At first it was the lighting. I couldn't get algae under control so I cut my light schedule then slowly tried to ramp it back up. It fucked up everything in my tank and black beard algae went ham on everything. The final solution I came to and the one that has been working excellently now is a schedule of - On from 7am-1pm, off til 5pm, On from 5pm to 9pm. The "siesta" in the middle allows for a build-up of CO2 (Walstad Method) and also severely inhibits bad algae growth (I need some algae as I have ottos, snails, and amano shrimp). First, I would suggest my lighting schedule and see how it works for you. If you aren't using timers they are absolutely essential to healthy plant growth. (Keep in mind we are using the exact same light, Planted+).
  
  
• Nutrients...I can't stress enough how important consistent, long-term fertilization is. I have some low-grow repens in my tank. When I first planted them they barely did anything. Once i dialed in my CO2 injection, and was consistently EI dosing for a few weeks they absolutely exploded. Something then happened in my family and I neglected the fertilization schedule for just about 1 week...and eeeeevery, single, part of it completely died off and melted away aside from the central stem. Instead of pulling them, I figured, "what the hell" and just started fertilizing again and within 3 weeks they were absolutely gorgeous and taking over my tank again. If you get a 1lb bag each of Potassium Nitrate, Monosodium Phosphate, and a Trace product called CSM+B, they will run about $30.00 total and last you for YEARS. Dosing is beyond easy as long as you have a scale ($8 on Amazon). Here is the calculator I use: http://www.aquariumcalculators.com/aquarium-plant-food/estimative-index/
  
  
• Seeing that you are in Alaska it seems like CO2 is going to be the most difficult aspect to integrate into your system. If you have access to a sporting goods store that refills CO2 canisters for Paintball then you can do what I am doing. All you would need (These are literally the items I bought from Amazon):
  
  
  • CO2 canister: link
    
    
  • Adapter to run canister to a silinoid regulator: link
    
    
  • Silinoid regulator so you can turn the co2 on and off with your light timer: link
    
    
  • We havent talked about filters but if you happen to be running a canister filter you can inject the CO2 inline with a reactor like this on your outflow: link
    
    
  • And in case you aren't running a canister a simple diffuser like this will do jut fine: link
    
    The startup cost is a bit, but once you are up and running it only costs ~$4.00 to refill a 24oz. Canister and one canister lasts me a month and half easy.
    
    If you don't have access to co2 refills then a DIY setup would be the only option and I have absolutely no experience with those unfortunately. One other option, while more expensive, are the fluval injection systems: link
    
    

1. Make sure you fertilize consistently. I highly recommend EI dosing.
   
   
2. Try my lighting schedule
   
   
3. Figure out a way to introduce co2 to your tank.

Thanks, I know some bettas like that but Ragnar had never done it before, at least not that persistently.

I am using this kit: https://www.amazon.com/Lifegard-Aquatics-Way-Test-Strip/dp/B0006JLUFY

I'll wait until tomorrow... water even looks cleaner though. I hope this is the solution.

I did end up adding a bit of calcium but it wasn't even enough to register on the test so I doubt I did any harm.

I have also tried feeding spinach but they've had zero interest in it. I just blanched another two leaves and added them to see if there's interest.

I really can't figure out what's going on because it seems like my water parameters are pretty much perfect unless there's something i'm missing. This is very frustrating.

Edit: what do you think about this for testing magnesium: https://www.amazon.com/NYOS-Magnesium-Reefer-Aquarium-Test/dp/B00OSY3UKQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1536017616&sr=8-5&keywords=api+magnesium+test

Equipment List
____

• Lighting: AquaIllumination Prime set to 14k
  
  
• Lighting Mount: AquaIllumination Prime Tank Mount
  
  
• Filtration: Innovative Marine Media Basket
  
  
• Filtration Media: Chemi Pure Blue
  
  
• Filtration Media: Filter Floss
  
  
• Return Pump: Upgraded to Maxi Jet 900
  
  
• Flow: Only the Spin Stream for now
  
  
• Heater: Cobalt Neo-Therm 50 Watt
  
  
• Thermometer: HDE Digital
  
  
• Auto Top Off: Tunze Nano Osmolator
  
  
• Algae Scrubber: Two Little Fishies Nanomag
  
  
• RO DI Unit: Express Water 100 Gallon Per Day 6 Stage
  
  
• In Line TDS Meter: HM Digital
  
  
• Handheld TDS and PH Meter
  
  
• Aquarium Salt: Red Sea Coral Pro
  
  Chemicals and Food
  ____
  
• Kent Nano Reef A & B
  
  
• Brightwell Aquatics Zooplankton
  
  
• Two Little Fishies ReVive Coral Cleaner
  
  
• New Life Spectrum 1mm sinking pellet
  
  
• I also feed frozen mysis occassionally, and I have a .5mm Hatchery pellet for Walter from Sustainable Aquatics.
  
  OnePlus 2 Manual Camera Settings
  
  
• Focus: Auto
  
  
• Aperture: 1/20
  
  
• White Balance: Cloudy (Very Bottom Option)
  
  
• ISO: 100
  
  For those interested my light is an AI Prime LED set to the 14k spectrum.

I looked at your items and the solenoid you have is the same as mine which I’ve used for over a year. Make sure that it will attach to the tank you want without an adapter. As far as tanks go. I got a 5 pound tank from a local welding supply it was over $100 initially but the CO2 lasted a year and when it finally ran out it was less than $20 to swap for a full one. Finally I went through 3 drop checkers like the one you link to they are really fragile. I liked his one way better


Glass CO2 Drop Checker for Aquarium Planted Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUDDMVP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SdxRBb5Y68YKV

I have no idea. Not sure how to measure and it doesn't appear on any of the tests that water treatment companies have done. One test measures 50 or so compounds along with pH, chlorine, etc. and does not have alkalinity. Sounds like I should get a test kit? Would something like this help? https://www.amazon.com/API-CARBONATE-HARDNESS-Aquarium-Water/dp/B003SNDDAU/ref=sr_1_2?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1499294000&sr=8-2&keywords=kh+test+kit&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

If I were to have high alkalinity what would I do to help resolve that?

The Tetra 6-in-1 EasyStrips do not have ammonia, but made sure to purchase the separate ammonia test strips. I will invest in an API freshwater master test kit once these strips run out... or maybe before then if I have some extra cash. Thanks for your advice!

A 21" deep tank is fairly deep. Where are the corals placed (distance between light and corals)? The Seneye Reef Monitor is a good cheaper PAR meter you may want to think of getting. BRS tested it and it came very close to the other standard PAR meters we can get that are $300-$400, see the video here if you're interested. Plus it has other functions. Anyway, you want to now the PAR that is actually getting to your corals, not just the PAR that the light can output. If you're corals are near the bottom of the tank, and then your lights are 10-12" above, that would be more than 30" between your light and corals. Can we get a FTS of your setup? Finally, have you tried increasing the intensity of the lights?

What good is a tank without a regulator and accessories? If someone is making the jump, I've got everything they'll need.

Bubble counter/check valve is $8 new.

Fluval bubble counter is only a couple bucks.

Fluval diffuser is
only $5.

Drop checker (which i forgot to mention) is $14 new.

CO2 proof tubing is $10 new, but granted what I've got left is a little cut up.

And each bottle of Flourish is $10 new, and mine are all nearly full.

To get all of it brand new would be ~$300 and you'd have to run all over the place to track it down. If you wanna make an offer, I'll accept anything reasonable.

This and this is what I have, but for about the same price you can get the gold standard. I honestly wouldn't be using the strips, except I got them to test my water for hardness before I had any tanks (it's liquid rock) and the Walstad setups I have have a different ecology than a traditional tank.

My dad has diabetes, and he gives me the white air tight containers his test strips come in to store my bud on the go. They look real similar to these ones:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TL2ULA/ref=psdc_3762031_t2_B004DJYJJM?th=1

They work great, so if you know anyone who has diabetes you can ask them about what type of container their test strips come in.

Sure, I'll do what I can! I have a 20lb CO2 tank hooked up to an Aquatek regulator, with a bubble counter and CO2 reactor (breaks up the bubbles into very small bubbles) connected to the output (spray bar) of the Rena canister filter. I use a drop checker to see if the CO2 level is where it should be, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077CCMTXK/ref=asc_df_B077CCMTXK5476824/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B077CCMTXK&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242019590609&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13296317174549204695&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009658&hvtargid=pla-399605872036

I wish there was a better way to gauge CO2 other than bubble counters and a drop checker, but I don't know of any.

I run the CO2 on a timer during the day, and it cuts off when the lights go out.

There's so much info about adding CO2, but my favorite place for advice is the plantedtank.net forum.

Sure thing! Here's a list of the main equipment:

Lighting - Finnex FugeRay Planted+ Aquarium LED Light Plus Moonlights

Light Risers - OEM FINNEX LIGHT RISERS FITS PLANTED+, RAY2, FUGERAY, ETC.

Filter - EHEIM Classic 250

Co2 - Tank / Diffuser / Drop Checker

Heater - EHEIM Jager Aquarium Thermostat Heater

Addon - Finnex Breeder Box with Light

Sure! The prices are a bit different as I was timing what I bought when the prices were low or refurbs.

Tank

Media basket(absolute must have)

Auto top off

Powerhead

Heater

Temp Controller, Fan, and Gooseneck

Light, and Mount

Upgraded return pump

Thx for the suggestions. Would this be a good test kit to get?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002566TC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497297758&sr=8-1&keywords=ammonia+test+kit

You can get cheap test strips online. These are the ones I've used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0053PQL8M/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They don't test kh or gh. I try to cut each strip in half so I can get twice the use out of them.

The gold standard is the API test kit. I have a small 10gallon and don't feel like shelling out all that money for one. And I would guess that you might be in a similar boat.

Edit: I would agree with the others about temperature. They should be happy in whatever temperature your house is it. Provided that you don't keep it incredibly cold in the winter.
You lower nitrates and amonia with water changes. Like someone else said, you can just use a cup to do a quick change. Shrimp are a bit sensitive so I would try to keep your water changes to about 25% to avoid large swings in parameters.

If you have a water test kit, you can test the ammonia levels to be sure if you're concerned.

Oh, you'll probably need to pick up a fresh water test kit when you can. You really only need an ammonia test kit for the moment.

This one is similar to what the OP has. You need pH solution and 4DKH to put inside the bulb. If you don't mind waiting you can get this one shipped from Hong Kong for $2. This is the more typical drop checker style you see on the subreddit. You can find the ball shaped ones shipped from Asia for very little as well. Many drop checkers come with directions suggesting you mix tank water with pH solution. Do NOT do this if you want it to be accurate.

I wasn't getting very good plant growth and had lots of algae problems until I got a drop checker. I guess i suck at counting bubbles in the bubble counter. Life in my tank has been great since I got one.

This is the one I picked up. The suction cup on it sucks balls tho. I have to push it back in every couple of days. This one may be a better option.

depending on the size of your tank you may be able to get away with the Tunze Osmolator nano. i think its rated up to 55 gallons.

It's liquid test kit, API for example.

These are the strips used for the Alpha Track 2, a glucose device for dogs and cats. I think the butterfly is to signal that it's for animals. I recognized them instantly because my little dog is diabetic and I have to take her glucose once a day with these things.
https://www.amazon.com/Abbott-AlphaTRAK-Blood-Glucose-Strips/dp/B007TL2ULA

Check out this link:
http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_51/fishless-cycling-article.htm

Tanks or bowls, cycling should be applied to anything you are keeping your fish or other aquatic life in. I'm not sure how familiar you are with cycling but I'll just start from the very basics, just in case.

All fish produce waste which breaks down into Ammonia. Ammonia is very toxic to fish but is actually food for certain types of bacteria. These bacteria will turn Ammonia into NitrIte. Nitrite is still toxic, but you have other types of bacteria to turn Nitrite into NitrAte. Nitrate is what you what you want to end up with - unfortunately nitrate is still toxic to fish but only in large quantities.

The idea of cycling a tank is to build up your bacteria colonies so the fish poop is converted very fast - so that your tank has basically zero ammonia, zero nitrite, and very low nitrate at all times. Here's where water changes come in, you want to do water changes regularly so that the nitrates in your tank do not get too high. Around 25% water change every week should do it.

To build up your colony, you need to put in fish poop, or anything that can decay and release ammonia so you can jump start your cycle. Fish flakes are good, any decaying matter really. Some people even put in cooked cocktail shrimp. Other people buy pure ammonia from your local grocery store/home depot/whatever. Obviously you don't want to put in any chemicals or foods that would stick around after you finished cycling that is harmful to fish, so don't get the ammonia cleaners - you need pure ammonia. Fish food is a safe bet if you are unsure of what to get, but it is a little slower because you have to wait for it to break down and release ammonia. I recommend grinding up fish flakes to a fine dust for fastest breakdown.

You can just drop in your fish food/or other ammonia source once every day - pretend you are feeding imaginary fish, and wait. Cycling usually takes 3-4 weeks.

Also, you should get an ammonia testing kit such as from [API](http://www.amazon.com/API-LR8600-Ammonia-Test-Kit /dp/B0002566TC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348514328&sr=8-1&keywords=ammonia+test). I linked you only to an ammonia kit but a lot of people opt for the API Masters kit which tests for Ammonia as well as a slew of other parameters, such as pH.

If your ammonia is above 0 that's a problem. Imo strips can give you a good enough reading for the rest of them but ammonia should really be precise. I'd get the liquid test for ammonia. Never let kids (or anyone for that matter) feed your fish without close supervision. Overfeeding is, I believe, the easiest way to kill them

I also saw that you turned off his heater? A temp change could make him feel a little grouchy.

You will have to switch from betta keeping as shown on TV and ads, to betta as a live pet with a lot of requirements, they get frequently get sick in not optimal setting, and even in optimal, see this later, but before buying fish. And get healthy fish first time, before you will be able to medicate them without problems.

It should be possible to keep it as breeders do that, but this is not a comfortable long time living.

You will need:

• 5 gal tank
  
  
• sponge filter, air pump, check valve, dual air valve, flexible airline tubing; or Azoo Mignon 60 power filter on lowest settings, with sponge intake protector,
  
  
• heater 50W, any thermometer,
  
  
• small sized substrate is optional, tank could have bare bottom,
  
  
• live plants or silk plants (have no idea what it is and where to get them, live plants are simple), a lot of hiding places and complex environment, or betta could either racing relentlessly along the wall, sit still depressed, or start biting chunks from tail, some do that. I use driftwood and plants for that, still looking for hiding cave,
  
  
• light for live plants and seeing betta, not bright, desktop lamp is ugly, but it works well,
  
  
• clean water (not distilled or RO water without remineralizing it), if tap water, use water conditioner like Seachem Prime,
  
  
• maintenance tools (hose, bucket, glass scraper could be DIY, some fish net just in case if yuy would need it),
  
  
• variety of fish food for bettas, pellets, not flakes,
  
  
• now main part: tank should be prepared ~4 weeks in advance, by dosing ammonia in finished planted tank setup, to feed bacterial population that will be dealing with ammonia, produced by fish, this allows grow nitrifying bacteria in large enough numbers. This saves fish from gill burn, ammonia and nitrite poisoning and lifetime consequences of it. How to do it, what is needed, together with ammonia dose calculator is here. Emergency procedures when dealing with ammonia in tank are here. As a minimum, you will need ammonia test kit, preferably liquid, you will use it first when something is not right, this is a first thing to check.
  
  Pricing for all of this, even roughly, depends on where you are, what is available to you, knowing where you can get for less, unless you are ready to pay whatever closest to you store charges for it. I am using Amazon and Walmart for some things, and specialized aquarium store for tank and plants, this way it's cheaper and better.