Reddit mentions: The best aquariumgravel cleaners

Hey there! Bettas can be super fun to have and you’re gonna love watching Harmony grow!

It looks like a lot of people already started pointing you in the right direction, I want to add on to that a bit since this is a baby betta (or just much younger, cant tell that well haha sorry)

Babies need a little bit of extra care to survive, they’re more fragile than adults.

So important stuff: feeding, temperature, water changes, and “cycling” (Disclaimed: I may repeat stuff others posted)

Feeding babies - Since she is small, she only needs a bit of food each day. Babies need a lot of nutrients to grow, and we can’t always give them that super varied live diet, luckily there’s options like using supplements and frozen foods. It’s best to feed small amounts throughout the day, frozen bloodworms would work, soaked in Seachem’s Nourish for nutrients and vitamins she needs to grow healthy! You could feed one whole bloodworm a day or tiny pieces of crushed pellets, Fluval Bug Bites or Northfin Betta Bits are healthy pellets with minimum fillers and preservatives, lots of good ingredients too but shell probably still need a supplement like Nourish. You could probably find it online, I linked an amazon link below. In order to properly digest and metabolize the food, she’ll need the proper heat.

Temperature - Adult bettas can thrive in water temperatures between 78-80°F, babies on the other hand need the water to be a bit warmer at around 81-82°F. To achieve this temperature, youll probably need an adjustable heater. The smallest adjustable heater I can think of is a 25watt heater, which would be too strong for a small bowl like that.

Tank - A 3 gallon tank would fit a 25 watt heater nicely for now, then when she gets bigger you can upgrade her to a 5 gallon and still use the same heater! (A general rule is 5watts per gallon, but a 25watt would work fine in a 3 gallon) You’ll also need to cycle the tank, which i’ll explain more below, and do frequent water changes once its cycled because while the fish grow, they produce a hormone that if it builds up in the water can stunt the fish’s growth - decreasing the lifespan. In a cycled 3 gallon tank, 3-5 small water changes each week would be great in my opinion. You also want to keep the water clean of course! Gravel vacuums are great for that.

Now onto the big part, cycling and the nitrogen cycle.

Since you already have your fish, you’ll have to fish-in cycle.

Fish-in cycling -

Basically consists of 1/2 water changes every day using Seachem Prime. Do this until your tank is cycled, which I’ll explain how to know that below.

While cycling, add the beneficial bacteria directly into the filter daily.

• ⁠A good filter set up is something with low flow, it can be baffled if needed. For filter media (or the guts of the filter) cermaic bio media, aquarium sponge, and filter floss would be great. Don’t replace any of this unless it starts breaking down, then you’ll need to seed new media, but you shouldn’t have to worry about that for a long time.

You’ll need an API Master Test kit, this is an accurate way to know your parameters (such as ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate). This is more accurate than strips, with test strips its super easy to get an inaccurate reading. The kit also lasts longer so you’ll get your money’s worth. I’ll include a link below to the kit.

When the tank is cycled, you’ll test and find 0 parts per million (ppm) ammonia, 0ppm nitrite, and ‘x’ amount ppm of nitrate. (Dont focus too hard on what parts per million means, its just how this stuff is measured. Nitrates should be kept under 20ppm, they arent as toxic as ammonia or nitrites but can be in large amounts.)

After your tank is cycled, you’ll need to do weekly water changes a few times a week using a gravel vacuum preferably. Gravel vacuum/siphons allow you to get the dirt out of the gravel easily without needing to take it out. (Leave the fish in when you gravel vacuum, take care to watch where she is especially since shes small) Highly recommend getting one of these! Its a necessity!

• ⁠Avoid large water changes, it could offset the balance of your tank. Never rinse the filter media in tap water, that can kill the beneficial bacteria (which I’ll send links to explain that more in a second). To clean the filter inserts aka media, just take them out and swish or squeeze in old tank water till the gunk is out. You’ll probably only need to do this once a month or so.

You may want to opt for a sponge filter, it should be safe for the baby so she doesn’t get sucked into any filter intakes. To set it up you’d need an air pump, standard airline tubing, a check valve, and things to make a bleed valve so you can adjust it.

Links-

Information:

Nitrogen Cycle: https://fishlab.com/nitrogen-cycle/

Fish-In Cycling: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/fishincycle?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app

My diagram/explanation on the cycle:https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/comments/c8evu4/nitrogen_cycle_art_by_me/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app

Supplies:

API Freshwater Master Test Kit 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cEpvDb8R85Q1K

Seachem Prime Fresh and Saltwater Conditioner - Chemical Remover and Detoxifier 100 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255PFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_u-kKDbTMV2W8K

Northfin Food Betta Bits 1Mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M4Q5DQ4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This is the best quality pellet I’ve found, here’s why:

• ⁠Nutritious, includes whole ingredients
• ⁠No fillers, hormones, or artificial pigments
• ⁠Packed with proteins, amino acids, vitamins, and minerals
• ⁠Floating pellets, roughly 1mm (they float for a bit then drop, my bettas chase them down)
• ⁠Easily digestible to promote optimal nutrient absorption

(This stuff is advertised by seller, but if you read the labels its all good. Harmony will be able to eat 5-6 of these daily as an adult. 2-3 in the morning, 2-3 at night)

Seachem Nourish 100ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018CM0DO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sekRDbR4YR0NG

(If you do some research and find a supplement you like better, then by all means go for it!)

Helpful other supplies:

Seachem Stability Fish Tank Stabilizer - For Freshwater and Marine Aquariums 500 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002APIIW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_k.kKDbDZMVD4J

(Bacteria in a bottle, it’ll help speed up the cycling process.)

Gravel Vacuum/Siphon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q97ZPSF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LblKDbFT79MAB

(Of course you don’t need this specific one, I just chose the best seller off Amazon as an example of what to look for. The local pet store should have these for around $10)

How to use a gravel vacuum: https://youtu.be/LYv5n0a85OY

No problem! I love this kind of stuff! Neon tetras is what you had? Those are great beginners but they are kind of small. Platties are a good beginner fish that do best in groups of about 3 or 4, especially in a ten gallon. They get to be about 2-3 inches long, and come in many bright, beautiful colors! They also look really pretty when the tank is decorated! Black skirt tetras are also really hardy, and do well in groups! If you wanted variety, you could also throw in a mystery snail or two!

Tanks are pretty easy to shop for. Honestly, the best place I have found is amazon. There are two routes to take. The first is that you could buy all of the parts separately, or you could buy a kit with most of hte stuff oyu need. For beginners, I definitely reccomend getting a kit. This is a pretty good kit that runs pretty cheap! You'll also need a heater for a 10 gallon tank. I use this one because it can be placed either along the wall of the aquarium or along the bottom. You'll also need substrate, or gravel/sand for your aquarium to make it look really nice and to give good bacteria a medium to grow on! This is essentially a preference for what you want your tank to look like! I use this because I like to make my tank look pretty natural, but it is entirely up to you! The most basic rule is you need about 1 pound of substrate per gallon of aquarium. Also, you need to get a gravel vacuum to clean the gravel. I use a small one for my tank because it lets me be more precise. You'll also need some water conditioner to make your tap water safe for fish! Some people use aquarium salt in their tanks, but I've found it's not entirely necessary. You'll also want to get some plastic/silk plants for your tank! Live plants are preferable, but with a 10 gallon tank fake will be fine! Silk is usually recommended because it has less of a tendency to rip fins, but plastic works fine!

So, essentially the bare bones of what you need are:

• 10 gallon tank kit ~$70 (if you go to places like PetsMart or PetCo, you might be lucky and find one on sale for like $30-$50!)
  
• 10 gallon heater ~$15
  
• About 10 lbs of substrate or gravel ~$15-$20
  
• Water conditioner ~$12
  
• Fish food (flakes, pellets, blood worms, etc.) ~$4
  
• Gravel vacuum ~$8
  
• Decorations ~$10-$20 depending on how much you want in your tank
  
  Total: ~$130
  
  All of these prices are from Amazon and my own experience, and can vary greatly from store to store. Especially during sales and such. You might get lucky and get all of this stuff for less that $100! It really does depend on where you are and what's available around you!
  
  If you have any other questions, please let me know!

150 is totally realistic. Planted tanks are the best. I'm not sure what advice you've already received but 10 gallons is "big enough". It is just that the larger the body of water the easier it is to keep stable. 10 gallons is an awesome starting point. I'll take a shot at a $150 total setup, that is plenty for a planted tank:

• API master test kit. Most important of all important importants :). No really though, get one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497496243&sr=sr-1&keywords=API+master+test+kit - $30
  
  
• 10 gallon tank from petsmart or petco - $14.99
  
  
• Aquaclear 30 hang-on-back filter - $32.00. This will eliminate the need for a air pump and sponge filter.
  These things are awesome.
  They are reliable, have adjustable flow, and make it so you can stack the media you want in your filter without having to go crazy expensive witha
  canister filter.
  They also come with really decent media. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00020SVDG/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497495329&sr=sr-1&keywords=aquaclear+30
  
  
• This light will grow low maintenance plants easily and is highly reviewed - $17.99: https://www.amazon.com/NICREW-Aquarium-Light-Extendable-Brackets/dp/B0191EWII2/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1497495518&sr=1-4&keywords=aquarium+led+light
  
  
• Cheap and awesome heater AND thermometer combo - $14.00 - https://www.amazon.com/Aquatop-Aquarium-Submersible-100-Watt-Thermometer/dp/B06X3RYRMD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497495598&sr=8-1&keywords=aquatop+100w
  
  
• Food of your choice ~ $4-8. I highly recommend Hikari Micro pellets. They are one food that my most stubborn will eat and they are small enough that no matter what age fish you get they will be able to eat them.
  
  
• Seachem Prime $13 - Hands down best water conditioner out there. MUCH CHEAPER online. Do not buy it in stores if you can avoid it. It will last forever too: https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116043304-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1497495705&sr=1-1&keywords=Seachem+Prime
  
  
• Hiding places and plants - $??? - The rest of your budget I guess. I like to build caves out of slate tiles and silicone from home improvement stores ($1.98/sq foot). Bettas like to explore and like places to get out of the light when they feel like it. Building slate caves is a really cost effective way to do that. Another idea is the super cheap clay pots. If you get clay pots just make sure you plug the hole at the bottom of the pot (the edges are very sharp and will cut your betta's fins).
  
  
  • As for live plants I have had the best success with shopping on amazon or /r/aquaswap. Some great vendors (and I mean great, the plants come in amazing condition days later in the mail) are substratesource and Aquarium Plants Factory
    
    
    So that is ~$120.00 without the plants and hiding places. That leaves you $30.00 for plants which is a great amount of money to get a very nice planted setup going. My 1 best piece of advice is to heavily plant the tank from the very beginning. The more plants you put in there, the more competition there is for algae and the better everything in your ecosystem will thrive.
    
    Edit: forgot to include cleaning basic tools such as a siphon: https://www.amazon.com/Python-Pro-Clean-Aquarium-Gravel-Squeeze/dp/B00BDPFYEI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497496172&sr=8-2&keywords=python+siphon and a bucket :) make sure you get those.
    
    =D

A few things I would change though, to improve the setup and make this 3.5g tank work out for the betta... (PLEASE READ and bear with me, I know it's long but you'll learn a lot I promise!)

1. That's WAYYY TOOO MUCH GRAVEL... jeez damn, that alone is taking at least 2+ inches of what could have been more water space + going to trap a TONNNN of debris with all that gravel... my recommendation would be to remove enough of it until the small finer gravel just barely reaches a bit above the level of black frame at the bottom of the tank, and then have the larger pebbles/rocks on top.
   
2. Fill the water till it's about 1 cm below the top black rim frame of the tank (that's how much I used to fill mine up to when I had the exact same TopFin 3.5g tanks).
   
3. I highly recommend these silk plants, both packs:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003KGBJ06 AND https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BG2TEAWith both packs, your tank will have nice and sufficient silk plant coverage. The taller plants towards the back, and the shorter ones to the front, those 4 will form a perfect mini jungle your betta will absolutely enjoy. You could try doing easy lowlight plants like Java Fern, but having had the same tank before, I think the rainbow LED light it comes with is far to dim to sustain most plants. Still you could try and see if java fern will be ok (they don't like their bulbous rhizomes buried though, so only bury the bit of the roots sticking out below the bulby-pill-shaped rhizomes).
   
4. Add 3-4 medium or large marimo moss balls (they look nice and they do eat up some of the toxins in the water) + Java moss [wrap some java moss around cables (heater cables)].
   
5. Add a 18-25w heater, preferably manually adjustable rather than preset, bettas absolutely DO need a heater, especially for winter months when its chilly. Their preferred comfy temperature needs to be kept at 78-80F. I do remember Petsmart has an 18w preset heater that's supposed to maintain 77 or 78F but I don't trust it, you can try it if you want but a manually adjustable heater is more accurate.
   
6. Ditch the included carbon cartridge (replacing that once per month is a money-grabbing gimmick by the pet store, because you should only ever need carbon filtration to remove medicine after a medicinal treatment of a sick betta, it's not really useful filtration otherwise). I recommend filling the big filter space with aquarium sponges cut down to size, towards the front of the filter where the outflow is + TopFin Quartz bioballs (you can buy a whole carton of them for a nice price) towards the back-half.
   
   1. https://www.amazon.com/3IN1-BIO-SPONGE-Biochemical-Sponge-QUACLEAR/dp/B00VPL0V0W <-- this pack includes fine, medium, and coarse sponges that you can layer inside the filter front (cut them down to size to fit if needed). Maintenance is the occasional gentle swish of the filter sponges in old tank water (NEVER RINSE IN STRAIGHT TAP WATER), about every two weeks or so (depending how gunked up they get).
      
   2. Add as much TopFin Quartz Bioballs (rinse them first in dechlorinated water) as fits in the space behind the filter sponges mentioned above.
      
      Other things you'll definitely need to have, and/or do:
      
      
7. API Freshwater Master Test Kit - You're definitely going to have to Fish-In cycle that 3.5g tank which means DAILY 25%-30% partial water changes to keep ammonia & nitrites low (you want those close to zero as possible to reduce poisoning of your betta during the process, so you need this test kit to be able to keep a careful watch on the ammonia and nitrite levels). ABSOLUTELY MUST HAVE, VERY IMPORTANT, liquid water parameters test kit. Three main things to check daily or every-other-day: Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. Not cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, 0 Nitrate. Cycling in progress will read some ammonia and/or some nitrite, but little or no nitrate. Fully Cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, and 5-10 ppm of Nitrate, then when nitrate reaches 15-20 ppm in a cycled tank a water change is necessary to reduce said nitrates.
   
8. Seachem Prime - best water dechlorinator out there, and perfect for Fish-In cycling because it helps temporarily neutralize smaller amounts of ammonia (under 1ppm).
   
9. Seachem Stability - beneficial bacteria blend which you'll need for establishing a nitrogen cycle.
   
10. Gravel Vacuum (mini size is good for 3.5g) - mandatory must-have item for tank maintenance, how else are you gonna siphon out the poo and food waste from the bottom of the tank? https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Vacuum-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK40VY/ should be perfect size for your tank.
    
11. 5g bucket (yes I know that's more than what your tank water volume is, but imagine having only a 3g bucket and you're trying to carry it to be dumped, or to carry it for a refill and it's going to be sloshing around as you walk, so a larger bucket will help reduce spills from some sloshing.)
    
12. NorthFin Betta Bits - one of the best quality betta pellets out there (little or no fillers, high quality ingredients, no nasty toxic preservatives) https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Betta-Bits-Pellet-Package/dp/B01C1ARV3K/
    
    Also PLEASE watch out with the overfeeding, your betta in this video clip looks super bloated (his little tiny belly looks about ready to burst, he's so stuffed). You need to fast him for 3-4 days until his belly looks almost flat again, then you can try giving him some daphnia as a mild laxative to help him clear out any further blockage (not to mention a heater to warm the water to a stable 78-80F will help his metabolism so he can process the food properly).
    
    Here's a reference of photos to help you determine how much food his little belly needs: https://i.imgur.com/4RR2LZ9.jpg (feed slowly 1 piece at a time, watch his belly, and aim not to let it get too far past the 2nd from the top picture).
    
    Please read these articles to learn more how to give your boi the best quality of life: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/index
    
    Only once your tank is fully cycled (0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and 5-15ppm nitrAte) for a 3.5g tank, you will need to do one 30% partial water change (PWC) mid-week (Wednesday for example), and one 30% PWC at end of week (Sunday for example). Or if you won't be there over the weekend then do 1 PWC Tues. and 1 on Friday.
    
    Good luck!

I was in your shoes not too long ago, it's overwhelming! Here's a list of things that I bought, but I am not an expert so if others have better input go for that:

Equipment

• 10 gallon tank with hood
  
• Broad Spectrum Light The one that came with the hood did not provide enough for the plants, you definitely need to invest in a broad spectrum bulb.
  
• CaribSea Flora Max Substrate I learned that shrimp prefer darker color substrate, this was worth the investment! My shrimp were so unhappy with cheap gravel, after switching to this substrate they are very active.
  
• Air pump
  
• Sponge filter
  
• Heater, maybe optional for you?
  
• Thermometer
  
• Gallon Bucket
  
• Siphon
  
• Seachem Prime Because it's a smaller tank, I ended up poking a pinhole sized hole in the seal so that I could use it as drops rather than pouring it in.
  
• [Seachem Stability] (https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-67101230-Stability-500ml/dp/B0002APIIW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1499786377&sr=1-1&keywords=seachem+stability) Use this while you're cycling your tank, follow the instructions.
  
• API Test Kit
  
• Feeding Tray For the longest time I was really confused as to how the feeding tray worked, you can either get a tube or pre-soak the pellets and then drop them into the tray using long tweezers. This will help prevent ammonia/nitrite spikes.
  
• Long Tweezer Set
  
• Pellets Do also feed them blanched vegetables, make sure to peel the skin and buy organic to avoid chemicals/pesticides
  
• Timer Outlet Worth the investment! So you don't have to keep remembering to turn the light on and off.
  
  Shop for whatever is cheaper, I have a huge heater because I had an extra one from before. I've read that it's not necessary but also have read that if you want them to breed you need to stimulate warm water. For now, I keep the heater off and leave it at room temperature of 72F. They seem very happy! Most important in my opinion, add plenty of plants and a marimo ball or 2.
  
  Lastly, I'm unsure of the siphon, I think it's good to have a bucket and siphon just in case your water parameters are looking bad so you are prepared to do a water change. From what I read, shrimp have a very low bio load and should be able to sustain themselves. Make sure to do tests regularly.
  
  EDIT I just read that this is your first aquarium, so here is a detailed write up:
  
  Setting up your tank
  
  
• 1. Find a stable top to place your aquarium on, keep in mind a well sunlit room will mean more plant/algae growth. Make sure it's sturdy and made for heavy objects, don't want to place it on a flimsy shelf or it might break! I keep mine on top a waterproof place mat because water drips are going to happen.
     
• 2. Rinse everything as a precaution! NEVER use dish soap!! If you must sanitize, vinegar is okay. Just make sure to rinse thoroughly. Also, NEVER use any kind of soap on your hands before handling things, just rinse well with water. Add your substrate, I lightly rinsed mine as there are beneficial bacteria living inside the substrate, pour it in. Make sure it's at least 2" of floor. Your water will be cloudy if you bought the substrate I listed, don't worry as it will settle after an hour and be clear.
     
• 3. Fill water half way, use a small plate and pour the water on top of that to avoid the substrate being pushed around. NEVER use hot water! If you're using tap water be sure to always use cold water. It's also recommended to purchase "RO water" (Reverse Osmosis Water) as some times your tap water can be too "hard". The best thing to do is use the test kit on tap water and go from there. If the kH/gH are very high 100+ you will need to use RO water. I like to place my plants and decor now while the tank is half full. Place in your thermometer, heater, sponge filter, etc. After that, continue to fill all the way to the top remembering to aim the stream on top the plate. Leave about a half to an inch from the top.
     
• 4. Take out plate, plug in filter, add in Seachem Prime and Seachem Stability. Please read the label for instructions and dosage according to your tank size. Since there is nothing inside you can add it after you've added the water to the tank. Moving forward, be sure to add the chemicals in the water bucket BEFORE pouring into the tank.
     
• 5. Turn on filter, wait for the water to settle and temperature to come up. They say shrimp can tolerate 52F to 86F but ideally room temperature water is best, this is where your water heater will come into play. Follow which ever cycling method you choose before purchasing your shrimp. This can take up to 6 weeks.
     
     After your tank has cycled
     
     
• 1. When adding your shrimp, there are many methods, the way I acclimate my shrimp is:
     
• 2. Put the shrimp in a 1 gallon tub using the water that they came in.
     
• 3. Drop in a tablespoon of the tank water, ONCE every 2 minutes.
     
• 4. After the water has reached 1/3 old water, 2/3rd new water, your shrimp are ready to be placed into your tank.
     
     Please don't skip the important step of acclimating your shrimp! They are very sensitive to water changes and this ensures that they will survive.
     
     Here are my water parameters, people have all kinds of ranges but this is what works for me:
     
     
• kH: 60 / gH: 40 / pH: 7.0 / NO2: 0 / NO3: 20 / Ammonia: 0 / Temperature: 72F
  
  I hope this helps... again, I was in your shoes not too long ago, it was really overwhelming. But after a lot of research I think my tank is in a good place :). Other users, if there's anything in my list that seems incorrect please let me know!

Advice from a fellow Canadian in a small city;

• Save yourself the trouble and expense of buying tank pieces separately and buy a kit that includes filter, hood, and tank (all major chains have them, Petsmart's own brand Grreat Choice is cheap and awesome and frequently on sale), that being said I also recommend a 10 gallon, it sounds big I know but trust me when I say the extra space is worth the significantly reduced maintenance and happy healthy fish.
  
  
• If you have the budget (aka extra $10), get live plants (not Marimo ball, those do nothing except look pretty), swords are excellent, hardy, and super easy to care for (PJ's Pets has a lot of cheap plants, lucky you! jealous).
  
  
• Use sand instead of gravel, it creates a healthy environment for beneficial bacteria to grow and that keep your water parameters in check.
  
  
• If you do choose to go with gravel, you don't ever need to change or rinse it (other than the first time), just use a gravel vacuum or betta waste remover ^^lol ^^turkey ^^baster to siphon out the detritus during water changes and you'll be set.
  
  As for your fish;
  
  2 potential culprits; fin rot or tail biting.
  
  
• Fin rot results from poor water parameters, fins literally begin to burn from the excess ammonia and rot away. It's easy to fix in most cases but can quickly become advanced fin rot and/or body rot in which case your little buddy is a goner. Providing a clean environment with fixed water parameters will allow the fish to recover on his own (very quickly!) but some people do choose to also try aquarium salt treatment, the latter is not a necessity unless the rot is quite bad.
  
  
• Tail biting results from boredom, poor water parameters, stress, and/or filter being too strong. This can be easily fixed by providing a change in environment or a clean tank with many hiding spots and places to explore, reducing filter current (a ton of ways to do this), keeping the tank dark (no lights in or around it) for a couple of days, reducing reflective surfaces (from the inside sometimes the glass can turn into a mirror for the fish so covering the hidden sides with black paper/background is beneficial).
  
  I hope you enjoyed this novel, best of luck!

A 40 gallon will be much better than a 5 gallon. Be sure to put a good filter on it. (I would choose an Aquaclear 70 if your mom isn't bringing you a filter). It will give you a lot more wiggle room since they won't get to be 12 inches overnight! People do budget stands made from cinderblocks all the time, if you're not getting a stand. I'd stick to bare bottom if you are on the budget. It's cheaper, safer, and easier to clean than any substrate would be. You can buy some cheap peel-off paint and paint the outside of the tank black and do something like this and it will look pretty luxe for not a whole lot of cash. (I would skip the live plants and do driftwood myself, since my goldfish seriously chow down on any plant life in the tank.).

For now, I would do daily 50% water changes. Drain half the water with a gravel vac like this. Add your dechlorinator (again, SeaChem Prime is the best choice, especially in a too-small tank). Add in water that is the same temperature. If you absolutely can't do a thermometer, feel the water and make sure you cannot feel ANY difference. Not perfect, but it shouldn't kill your fish. I would still strongly encourage you to buy a water test kit, since you will be doing something called fish-in cycling. The toxic ammonia and nitrite are not immediately visible, but can cause serious damage to your fish. You want your parameters to be 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrite, less than 20ppm nitrate. Yours are not going to be that, and testing your water is the only reliable way to know when to do a water change, and how serious things are. The best of the reasonably priced is API Freshwater Master, which is usually around $20 on Amazon.

Unfortunately, I wish that the practice of giving away goldfish (or any live animals) as prizes was illegal, since I agree that it is absolutely not fair to you to ask you to spend hundreds and hundreds of dollars on a hobby that you didn't intentionally choose and didn't know anything about until someone gave you a life to care for, and it's certainly not fair to the fish to send them home with people who are not prepared for them! I'm glad you are working on providing a better home for your fish.

P.S. I'm always happy to talk about goldfish, so you are welcome to PM me in the future if you have more questions!

Finally at work so I can give some links, lol

Here's a cheap sponge filter, I love these for bettas because they have a gentle flow and no mechanical intake for the betta to get sucked into. The bacteria will live in the sponges so make sure to never clean them with tap water or else you'll kill them! You'll also need an air pump and some airline tubing to get the filter going. I've used all of these and it's a pretty simple and cheap setup.

To actually measure the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate levels, you'll need a test kit. I know some people and stores use strips, but they are hilariously inaccurate. You can have levels of 70+ ppm of nitrate (which is usually deadly) and the strips will tell you that you have 0 ppm. The liquid kit also lasts a lot longer! Your tank is cycled when ammonia is at 0 ppm, nitrites are at 0 pmm, and nitrates are at 0-20 ppm.

To make it easier to clean his tank, you can use a siphon. It sucks up the water for you, all you need is a bucket/tub to catch it in. Makes cleaning a lot less hectic!

Just a side note, Betta are actually tropical (and cold-blooded fish), so they need a heater. This is good for a 10 gal, it's what I use :) You can also get a glass or electronic thermometer to make sure the water is staying at the recommended 78-80 F. If you already have a water conditioner this is optional but Seachem Prime is what I use as it binds and neutralizes low levels of ammonia.

Here's the sub caresheet/wiki, and here's a guide to fish-in cycling (which basically just means cycling the tank with a fish already inside). I know this is a lot of info/expenses all at once but if you ever have any questions you're always free to PM me! I'm happy to help to the best of my ability. I'd recommend getting him a 5 gal or bigger ASAP, and with clean warm water his fins will be healing in no time :)

The water changer you have is perfectly fine, though if it's too big it wouldn't hurt to find something smaller. For my Betta tanks I have the Marina Gravel Vac in the Mini size and I find it allows me to go through all my gravel and clean up the excess poop and such and in the process end up doing about a 50% change. I do this once a week. If all you've been doing is letting the siphon sit in the tank or skimming it over the top of the rocks, you're doing it wrong.

Start at one corner of your tank and plop it into the gravel, let it suck up waste, lift and move a few inches over and plop it back in. Continue doing this until the gravel in the tube hits the halfway mark and then just lift it a few inches to let the gravel fall out. Rinse and repeat until you've cleaned all gravel. If this is what you currently do, keep on doing it!

So, how often do you to a 25% change? If once a week, keep doing so but maybe try 35% and see how it goes. If once every two weeks, bump that to every week.

Non-adjustable heaters are notoriously bad. I've yet to find one that doesn't completely suck to be honest. 99% of them will only heat a small tank a few degrees above ambient room temperature which isn't ideal unless you keep your house a whopping 75°F year-round. For example, say you keep your house (or even the room yours tanks are in) at 68°F. Typically, standing water will always be 3-5° cooler. So with a tank that's roughly 63° - 65°F, a non-adjustable heater will only bring the temp up to 68° - 72°F. Sometimes they'll be unreliable and overheat your tank as well, more so if you do keep a warm house. Hopefully I explained that well enough! I'm admittedly pretty bad at wording things.

The smallest and probably cheapest adjustable heater you'll find is probably the Hydor Theo 25w which is good for 2 to 7g tanks. I exclusively use these for my bettas and love them. Never had a problem so far and it's been about a year of use already! I have mine set consistently to 78° and they keep a steady temp with maybe 1-2° variation on warmer days now that it's coming into spring here. It evens out nicely year-round though so I don't have to worry about boiling my betta babies.

Let us know the temp once you've got some thermometers going and if at all possible it'd be great to know your ammonia readings as well. Most pet stores will test your params for free if you ask. Too warm water can be just as detrimental as too cold and alongside a water parameter issue, could be the cause of your problem. Keep us updated and good luck!

It's very kind of you to not just let him die! If you get him spiffed up you may be able to find someone who likes fish to take him in, so you don't end up feeling burdened...

but in the meanwhile, there is some basic stuff you can do. If your measurements are correct, then he's probably in a 2 1/2 or 3 gallon aquarium, which while not the best, will certainly suffice. This means the main things you'll need are a filter and a heater.

It would also be nice if you got him some stuff to hide in, so he doesn't stress. They make aquarium decorations, but a clean, well rinsed ceramic coffee mug or unpainted terra cotta planter will do the trick for cheap.

By the way, can you post the name of the water conditioner that you found in the tube? It will help me be able to figure out if it's a dechlorinator or not, which is the most important thing.

Also, does the tank have a lid? Bettas will jump out of water, especially if the water quality is bad.

Anyway, there is plenty of inexpsensive, decent equipment for a tank that size:

I personally happen to like this filter for a tank that size, and it's very easy to install/maintain.

Here's a nice little heater that's worked very well for me. You'd want to maintain his water between 75 and 80 degrees, so it's always a good idea to have a thermometer to make sure the heater is doing its job properly.

From there, maintenance is pretty easy. Feed him just 3 or so of those little food pebbles a day, and once a week give him some of the bloodworms for variety. The main thing is to not overfeed, because they have very small tummies.

Once a week, change out about 25% of his water, and rinse out your filter pads with old aquarium water if they need it. They make little syphons especially for this, because the suction they create helps you vacuum poo out of the substrate.

Here's what you'll need:

• 5+ gallon tank with a lid. You can go for one of the nicer-looking (but more expensive ones) or just a plain ol' tank from any pet store. Lids are necessary because bettas are jumpy by nature.
  
  
• Heater. Bettas are tropical fish so you need something that can keep the water at around 78ºF. I'd really reccomend an adjustable one because A) you can do extra fine-tuning and B) you can bump the temperature up if you need to (if the room gets extra cold, or if your betta gets stick, etc). Here's what I use in my 5.5g.
  
  
• Thermometer. Nothing fancy, but you need something so you can know what the temperature is. Get an internal one instead of the ones that stick on the front of the glass (those aren't very accurate). Again, you can find them at any pet store for a couple bucks.
  
  
• Filter. Filters are a must because they house the bacteria that maintain a tank's cycle (preventing your fish from getting poisoned). I would reccomend either reading up on the nitrogen cycle yourself and teaching your friend or giving them a link to a guide, since if they've got the fish in a little container they probably know nothing about it. An air pump + sponge filter is a cheap way to do it but as long as you can get a filter that makes less of a current you're good. Bettas (especially ones with long heavy fins) don't like fast flowing water. I've got this one in my 5.5g. The fact that it's adjustable is super convenient.
  
  
• Substrate. Looks nice, add extra surface area for more bacteria to grow, A+. You can get either gravel or sand. If you want to go cheap, regular pool filter sand or black diamond blasting sand will get you a ton for a few bucks.
  
  
• Decor. Bettas appreciate densely planted/decorated tanks with lots of hiding places. Make sure anything you get isn't rough/sharp enough to snag panty hose, because that means it'll also tear betta fins. That means no coarse decorations, plastic plants, etc. Silk plants are popular, and mugs are an easy way to add a little cave.
  
  
• Gravel vac. When you're doing water changes you need a gravel vacuum to clean down in the gravel. I've found that this one is a great size for my 5.5g. Others I've tried pull out water too fast to get a good cleaning in before you've removed the water you need to. She'll probably need some container to put the water into as well. I just use a plastic 1-gallon pitcher for my 5.5.
  
  
• Test kit. Back to cycling, you need to have a test kit so you can know the pH, concentration of ammonia, concentration of nitrite, and concentration of nitrate in the tank. The API freshwater master test kit is far and away the most popular since it provides all four. Whatever you get, go for the liquid kits rather than the strips because strips aren't very accurate.
  
  
• Betta food, but she probably already has that. Although if she's got flakes it'd be a good idea to move her over to pellets, since flakes make the water a lot dirtier. Also I would reccomend you advise her on how much she should be feeding her betta. They're little piggies and will eat themselves sick if you let them, so people who don't research betta care are prone to overfeeding.
  
  
• Water conditioner. Water conditioner removes chlorine from tap water so fish can live in it. Oftentimes you'll see betta-specific water conditioner at stores, but this is just a scam that preys on folks who don't know better. It's overpriced, comes in tiny bottles, and is watered down. At 1/10 mL per gallon, a single bottle of Prime for instance is way cheaper and will last way longer. I'd reccomend you also get a 1mL syringe for easy dosing. Whenever I want one I pick one up from my school's chemistry stockroom for like 25 cents.

Yes, you can do a fish-in cycle with a betta! It is not ideal, but he should be fine as long as you do your proper water maintenance. Get yourself a liquid (not paper) water testing kit and do daily water tests for ammonia/nitrite/nitrate and perform a partial water change (~20% or so) whenever they are detectable. This will likely be a few times a week. As your nitrifying bacteria establish, you'll be able to go for longer periods of time without doing those water changes. When fully cycled, you should do just weekly partial water changes. Seachem Prime is a great brand of water conditioner, as it's extremely concentrated (a drop or two will treat a gallon of water) and has the added benefit of detoxifying ammonia for 24 hours.

If you don't have one yet, a gravel vacuum is your best friend for water changes. Just have a bucket or something to drain the water into.

I'm not sure what kind of filter the kit comes with, but I recommend scrapping cartridges and filling the filter with good biological media (like aquarium sponge, filter floss, ceramic noodles). These media give a huge amount of surface area for your cycling bacteria to colonize, and never need to be replaced. You may also want to get a pre-filter sponge to slip over the intake to protect his fins from getting sucked in.

It will be okay! You can do it!

Re your questions:

• I noticed that one side is bubbling furiously and the other side bubbles every 30 seconds or so in a burst. If the side bubbling furiously is nearer to the air pump then it might not be strong enough to push air to the end, especially if it's far away from the filter. Check for airline kinks or blockages in the filter too.
  
• Do I really need to remove all my decorations every time I do water changes/clean the gravel? No.
  
• What size siphon/gravel cleaner should I use and do you have any recommendations? I have three of these and have no complaints. I use them with squeeze siphon starters as I have floating plants I don't want to disturb by using gravity to start the flow.
  
• When I reach in to my aquarium, do I need to wear gloves? Wash or rinse my hands? The proper answer is that you should wear gloves as fish TB and other diseases are communicable to humans. That said, most folks just rinse their hands and arms well before and after reaching into the tank unless they know there's illness in the tank. Use soap and rinse it off well if you have perfume, lotion, or any chemicals on your skin.
  
• When preparing water to refill after cleaning, do I need to use a thermometer to ensure the temperature is equal or will a finger test suffice? An extra thermometer is $2 so I'd get one. Better safe than sorry. I keep one by the sink for water changes and it's made me correct the temp more than once.
  
• Is this appropriate given my tank size/filtration? If you just had the biowheel I'd say your filtration might be on the light side depending upon how you stock (8x-10x tank turnover per hour is suggested with HOBs) but paired with a UGF I expect it'll be fine. You can play with stocking calcs on AQAdvisor.com. (The "one inch per gallon" rule is bunk, FYI.)
  
  A few other things I wish I'd considered before starting:
  
  
• Filled tanks are seriously heavy. A 20g will weigh at least 225 pounds. Think long and hard where you want it and make sure your floor can support the weight.
  
• If the tank's going on furniture (as opposed to a tank stand) get Plexiglass cut to size to cover and protect its surface. Water will splash and drip during maintenance.
  
• Be proactive in having common medicines on hand to avoid frantic searches for them when they're needed. I always keep things like Kanaplex, Furan-2, PraziPro, Paraguard, methylene blue, and clove oil on hand. (I prophylactically use Prazi and Paraguard during QT.)
  
• Dip and QT plants to mitigate the risk of bringing snails and illness into the tank.
  
  Good luck and have fun!

Just an fyi, I have sand in most of my tanks and I have plants in all of them. And most fish are fine with sand. The bigger concern with a 10 gallon is finding fish that work in it. Schooling fish need a group of 6 and many are too big. I have a couple 10s. You can do:

• 12 Chili Rasboras and 6 Corydoras habrosus. They need sand anyway. These 2 together have a very low bioload. They are not beginner fish, BUT if you are keeping up with weekly water changes and testing and cleaning substrate. You must keep this moderately planted.
  
• 8 Rosy loaches and 8 Chili Rasboras if you over filter with the equivalent of an Aqueon 20 quietflow filter. Not necessarily beginner fish either, need very clean water so the above note applies here too. But, if kept moderately planted this can be a fun tank.
  
• If you want bombproof easy beginner fish, get 8 male only Endlers, a couple of Amano shrimp, a bunch of live plants, and then after several months, you could even get a Nerite.
  
  If your plants need a boost in sand, you dose with Seachem Excel (liquid Co2) and Seachem Flourish. And if you had heavy root feeders, you could use root tabs. I find the narrow tubed python works reallly reallly well to clean sand because the fat ones just suck up the sand, and you still need to clean the substrate. so this is important to keep your fish healthy. Hope this helps!

No no no, don't add a pleco. They are bad for goldfish as they find their slime coat quite tasty. Plus, goldies are cold water and basically every other fish type is warm water. With the shrimp and crayfish you are just going to be throwing your money away, they will die pretty quickly in a goldfish tank. It's a common misconception that fish like Cory's or Pleco's eat poop, but Cory's eat what the other fish miss that floats to the bottom and Pleco's eat algae and plants. You WILL get an algae bloom eventually, don't go buy a pleco, just work on scrubbing it off and taking care with water changes because pleco's are hard to take care of properly and don't belong with goldfish.

Add your second filter right now, and if you can, get some cycled filter media out of your current one to put into the new one, to help get the bacteria growing properly. That EX70 is definitely not big enough. You are going to need to be cycling 300+ gallons an hour, so you are probably going to need to get a third one or just invest in something in the 110 size or larger. Seriously, goldfish are a mess in small tanks. You might get something like the Quick Vac to help get the poop out in between water changes. I love my cleaner, it really helps (I do have a pleco, he's such a poop machine, I have to clean out his home a few times a week.)

http://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Gravel-Cleaner-Sludge-Extractor/dp/B003C5U2SU I just saw this the other day at petsmart too.

It should only be powerful enough to lift a little bit of gravel at a time, if the gravel makes it to the top of the chamber then it's too strong. I've never run a tank with anything other than sand so I have no personal experience vacuuming a tank. You also shouldn't have to remove anything unless you want to, but I would recommend it(at least a couple times a year) because a lot of waste collects near decorations because they disturb the water flow and let it sit without be cleaned away by the filter. A lot of people stir up their gravel or sand a little bit before siphoning, that way since you've only got a little bit of water to siphon, most of the crap will be ready and waiting at the top of the gravel.

Also with filtration, carbon is only necessary to clean meds out of the water, but it can extend your water between changes. I used use carbon 24/7 but it has to be replaced pretty often, now I go without and just do more water changes, the water smells and looks just as good. So in the long run only use it if you need it for sure.

About using gloves, if that makes you more comfortable handling decorations and such then go for it, but honestly I'd be worried about the gloves leeching something nasty into the water, I just rinse and dry my hands and arms before handling anything in the tank.

The thing is with fish is that they prefer consistent conditions over ideal conditions, so if your levels are way out of range for your fish, you can shock them by correcting it too quickly, so just do whatever you can not to stress the fish.

If you decide to go with catfish or algae eaters, then use less salt than what I recommended, about half a dose because catfish are irritated by it more so than most fish. I think I may have killed both of my candycane plecos with salt. And to be clear, never use iodized table salt. Salts are going to keep your fish free from ick and parasites and fungus better.

Personally I think it is algae, and your choice in gravel is probably contributing. It's a little on the large size, which means tons of crevices for the detritus to build up in that are difficult to clean properly. So even if you're doing regular water changes, unless you're also regularly and vigorously stirring up the gravel to raise all the junk into the water column, it all just sits. A plant would definitely help.

So two options. First fix is to switch out to a finer substrate. If you choose sand, it still needs maintenance because it can grow anaerobic bacteria and so will need to be gently agitated when you do water changes. A smaller size gravel wouldn't need it, but would still benefit from occasional shifting.

The second option is keep everything as is but be extremely aggressive with your cleaning. If you do that you'll need one of these so you can remove the fish from the tank and get the job done without stressing him or injuring him. What I mean by aggressive, is to remove the decorations, then use your hand or some sort of utensil to stir up the gravel. Specifically to put all the gunk into the water that you will be exchanging.

With the latter option there are two choices. For the first time, you can actually choose to strip the tank and fish the gravel out to deep clean into a bucket or tupperware or something. This is the method I'd choose because then the next water change will be much more clean since you're essentially starting with newer cleaner gravel. Do not wash the gravel with tap water, use the tank water. There's beneficial bacteria in the gravel by now that die from chlorine(tap water)

Choice number two is the lazy way, you just stir up the gravel and do several water changes over a week, but during that time your tank will still look dirty because of all the mulm and algae in the water. Also there's a good chance that the algae will get worse first before better as it's eating the nutrients.

In the end though I think these ways are how you'll get the best water for your fish and fix this issue. I wouldn't use any algae killers, since that's not actually solving the root issue here. I would strongly suggest you also get a plant but only after your water has become more clear because that way it has a chance to establish itself and not get choked out by the algae.

As a side note I don't know how you're siphoning your water out, and if you don't have a gravel vac might want to consider getting one.

Thanks! It's the Aqueon Mini Bow 5 Gallon. I think I have the old model, there's a newer one which seems to be more available on Amazon at this point. That comes with a filter. I just got a large silk plant today to put under the flow because it is a little strong for the betta. I have this heater. I had a lot of trouble with the really cheap Aqueon heaters. Didn't seem to work at all. I have the 10watt now because I bought it when I had a smaller tank, it manages to get the 5gal up to 76, I should probably order the 25watt now though. Didn't remember the one I have is too small! I also got this gravel vacc which you definitely want with an upgrade so you can do 25% water changes every week. Its really easy to use! Just need a bucket or container of some sort to put on the ground to collect the water. Good luck!

First-timer in over his head here. Could use an assist with setup. The ultimate goal is setting up something my (soon-to-be) 2 year old daughter will enjoy watching.

Planning on purchasing:

Tank & Stand: Aqueon 45G tank ensemble - $250

Light: LED - Included with tank

Filter: MarineLand Penguin 200 Power Wheel - $21

Heater: Orlushy Submersible Aquarium Heater 150W - $18

Python: Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System - $40, 24 inch adapter - $10, [hook] (https://smile.amazon.com/Python-Spill-Aquarium-Gravel-24-Inch/dp/B004PBHX4G/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2/146-3053739-1242457?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004PBHX4G&pd_rd_r=42a7c2bc-877d-414d-b0c9-2960fa629e40&pd_rd_w=q7tkK&pd_rd_wg=fjx36&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW&psc=1&refRID=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW) - $20, and this adapter for my non-threaded faucet - $12

Conditioner: [API Water Conditioner] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $7

Bacteria: [API Quick Start] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $4

Test Kits: [API 5-in-1 Test Strips] (https://smile.amazon.com/5-IN-1-AQ-Test-Strips-100CT/dp/B077YS7Y4Y/ref=sr_1_3?crid=VPPBFJ1NJSMG&keywords=api%2Btest%2Bkit&qid=1567987538&s=gateway&sprefix=api%2Btest%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-3&th=1) - $26

That takes me up to $408. That leaves me about $100-150 in the budget my wife gave me to get decorations and the fish themselves. (It was supposed to be $500, but we always go slightly over budget)

Any recommendations on large and colorful fish that could attract and keep a toddler's attention? Preferably peaceful.

Any other recommended tweaks to the build? I haven't purchased anything yet, so I'm willing to completely scrap this and start over if somebody has a better idea of how to use the money.

Having bred them a few times before and daffodils. I'll share my advice. 45 gallons is enough tank if you only keep the breeding pair. These fish are protective enough that they will run off bigger fish. My dad has a daffodil/julie pair, in a 125gallon, and the daffodil (4" mouth to tips of tail wisps) runs off a Frontosa that is 7 inches long and massively larger body wise. Best to just keep the mated pair in there. Take note that you won't have to get the young out of there, as each brood helps take care of the next along with the parents, which is kind of cool. I've kept plecos in the same tank, but they have to be larger so that they don't get picked on (think fully grown bristle-nose), otherwise they will get picked on / bite by the brichardi.

Getting a pair for mating... buy 6 to 10, and as you see fish get ostracized / chased to the corners of the tank, get them out of the tank.

Maybe get some clay/terracotta pots (don't get ones that have cement lining in them) put them on their sides for breeding, and/or break them in half. Soak for 5 to 10 minutes in bucket of water, get a masonry drill-bit, drill holes in a line up the sides, bottom; and whack lightly with a chisel and hammer.

Get an air stone of some sort in the tank, be it a bubble line, or an ornament, or a sponge filter (over filtering never hurts). Gravel is just fine as long as it's small, like pea or smaller sized, they'll dig and move things, be sure nothing will fall over and crush them (had this happen once or twice). Make sure to have driftwood in the tank, and remove live plants. Lake Tanganyika does not have natural water vegetation (plants) and they will uproot / rip up your plants. Water changes, they can survive/thrive in hard water, you can do weekly/bi-weekly/monthly water changes and they'll be ok.

feeding the babies, yes, you'll need Small Fry Starter Formula , and I suggest a turkey baster for feeding. You're going to get a little cup, put some tank water in it, then suck it up with the turkey baster, and put it near the fry to release and feed them, sounds weird, but it works.

Also, if you want more cichlid info... heres a book by a world renowned cichlid guy.

edit note: spawning cycle, assuming they keep at it, is about 3 weeks between broods.
edit note 2: changed encapsulated brine shrimp eggs to Small Fry Starter Formula

Fish in cycling is totally possible. Just buy some seachem prime (seriously, this stuff is the top of the top, get it), make sure you're doing regular (every other day is what I did) water changes of ~40-50% (side note, get one of these doesn't have to be the same one but something similar. This lets you do the water changes without taking the fish out of the tank which stresses the fish).

And most importantly, get a complete test kit one like this, not the strips they're inaccurate and make sure the ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite levels don't go too high. If they do, do a 60% water change and add some seachem prime and check back in a few hours.

You can also get something like this to jumpstart your bacteria growth. Putting filters from previously established tanks also works

He should be fine as long as you do all this! Love the setup btw!

Set up for TWO Axolotls

Realistic initial set up cost $145
(Not including cost of axolotls)

$5-$150 30g tank MINIMUM preferably 40+ (OfferUp Facebook groups Craigslist pet stores)

$1-$130Hides - decor or caves or even home made must be water safe even pvc piping works minimum of 2 for each (decor can become expensive fast if you want to make your tank look very “pretty”)

$20-$75 Filter - something with low current flow sponge filter or a canister filter with something to break up a strong flow if you have a sponge filter you need air line tubing and a air pump (link of canister filter is what I use in my 55g tank )

Bacto-Surge High Density Foam Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oov7AbY5ESARC

Penn Plax Airline Tubing for Aquariums –Clear and Flexible Resists Kinking, 25 Feet Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kpv7AbQ20H9V7

Tetra Whisper Easy to Use Air Pump for Aquariums (Non-UL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YF4FI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hpv7AbC3Y8R2Z

SUN 4-Stage Aquarium External Canister Filter with 9 Watt UV Sterilizer 264GPH (HW402B with Pro Filter Kits) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFCS6W7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CVv7AbX67HQED

$10-$15 Water additives
Water dechlorinator follow instructions on bottle if the tank isn’t fully cycled use prime plus follow instructions on bottle it helps keeps the water healthy for the axolotls too

API TAP WATER CONDITIONER Aquarium Water Conditioner 16-Ounce Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1qv7AbHFPEHT5

Tetra 77960 SafeStart, 100 Gallon, 250-ml, 1.69-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E2RI74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1tv7AbDHHEMEY

$20-$35 API water test kit to make sure the water is in good parameters
http://www.axolotl.org/requirements.htm

API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zvv7AbK35G0WW

$2-$10 Aquarium thermometer that reads down to 60 degrees F

CNZ Digital LCD Thermometer for Aquarium Fish Tank Vivarium Reptile Terrarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KPXVI94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yxv7Ab1NSQ5H6

$5-$20 Aquarium syphon

Aqueon Medium Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner, 9-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RK1WBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2aw7Ab3Z5KS9B

Feeding

$2.50-$3 Fishing earth worms (Walmart sporting goods section)
$10-$15 blister pack of 30 blood worm cubes (I can sell them to you while supplies last for $15 or you can buy them at any pet shop that sells fish)

Earth worms when they get bigger try to feed them nibbles of a worm like the size of their head and move up as they get bigger and frozen blood worms for first month to month and a half try to feed the earth worms to the axolotls ever couple days by hand until they start accepting them they might start accepting earth worms as soon as a week after receiving them from me (feed frozen blood worms every other day until they are regularly eating pieces of worm )

Maintenance

You can use a turkey baster and clean up their poops as you see them you’ll still have to do water changes but much less water 25%-35% or use a syphon once a week and do a 30%-50% water change along with the water dechlorinator and some of the safe start plus make sure to test the water regular with the api test kit

Keeping the water to the correct temperature

60-64F is the perfect water temp for them but it can be hard to achieve during summer but doing more regular water changes can help with that and putting a fan over the aquarium blowing on it will help by up to 4-5 degrees

NO SAND OR GRAVEL ESPECIALLY NO GRAVEL EVER sand maybe fine once they are 6-7inches but they will swallow it and they can become impacted and possibly lead to death

If you have powerful mechanical filtration, dislodging sediment from moss by using powerhead (or turkey baster at small scale) should help.

There are motorized gravel cleaners, like Eheim, but they do not have enough pulling power.

Strong enough powerhead in your hand and micron sock as mechanical filtration (collector) should do the trick.

I think that the Eheim one is a huge ripoff (I think it's around $50). I just got the TOM's Mr. Cleaner one for $12 and it worked great for me. I've only used it once though and I used it to just suck poop off the top of the sand without the gravel head attachment, so it might be great for a bare bottom tank too (no idea on longevity though since I just got it):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003OYOPNW/

I've been doing my research. :) Ordered the Aqua Clear 50 as you suggested and I am buying ammonium chloride and a testing kit off Amazon. Also signed up for aquabid. :)

I considered Dr. Tim's bacteria but I decided to do it the slow way instead, because why not.

I found out the type of fish tank I wanted to do is the low light low-tech tank, so I'm reading up on them right now. I read about this scientist who makes fishtanks where you don't have to change water for months at a time when I was a kid. Apparently she writes books on the subject.

Going to do some more research and try to get this right.

In terms of how I siphon water out of the fish tank, will something like this work? http://smile.amazon.com/Python-Pro-Clean-Gravel-Washer-Aquarium/dp/B001V6Y3LY/

I decided to use Miracle Gro topped with some kind of sand for my substrate. Will this suck out all of my substrate?

Sounds like you have pretty much everything covered!

As far as water changes go, you're going to need a dedicated fish bucket or two (I use two HDPE 2 gallon buckets from Walmart) and a siphon or a gravel vacuum. I use this gravel vac in my 10 gallon tanks and it works just fine.

Here's a good video on how to use a gravel vacuum.

Out of curiosity, are you planning on using ammonia or fish food to cycle your tank?

I use one of these bad boys.

Just put a gallon jug or bucket on the floor and start the siphon. Then just mix up the top 1/2 inch or so of the sand with the wide end and all of the crap down there gets sucked up. First though, I clean off the glass really well, and use a turkey baster to blow all the detritus and other junk off of (and out of) the rock in my tank, then give it 10 minutes or so to settle with all pumps off. THEN I do the siphoning. Helps get a LOT of gunk out in a pretty efficient way.

It can take 15 minutes total if you want to be quick about it, or two hours if you want a really deep clean of your tank (mine is 9 gallon, so YMMV)....which I recommend every couple months if your inhabitants aren't the kind to stress out over it too badly.

I also use a motorized pump version of a siphon to clean out the water more thoroughly and save a little time:

https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Gravel-Cleaner-Sludge-Extractor/dp/B003C5U2SU/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1473442810&sr=1-1-fkmr1&keywords=eheim+electric+siphon

What kind of bulbs are they? Have you tried to increase your lighting?

Here's what I'm referring to: http://www.aquascapingworld.com/algaepedia/full_view_algae.php?item_id=78

What I would try to do is remove your snails if possible. Let the algae grow for 3-3.5 weeks and than remove it with a battery powered vac like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003OYOPNW/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1372953769&sr=8-7&pi=SL75 It comes with an attachment that removes algae off the glass quite well.

The reason I say remove your snails is because when they clean a path it means new algae is going to grow there, so if you clean your glass at 3 weeks some of the algae is younger than that and will release spores.

Another option is to add a dose of hydrogen peroxide after cleaning the tank glass, it will kill the spores when they are released(this needs to be done carefully): http://www.theaquariumwiki.com/Hydrogen_peroxide

http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/hydrogen-peroxide

You can use a Gravel vacuum to get the gunk out of the substrate. Algae is not bad for fish at all! It is really just a primitive single celled plant that uses up nitrates(fish poop) and creates oxygen just like other plants. It's us fishkeepers that don't like the way it looks. It is very common to have new tanks go through a phase of algae growth, as your plants become more established they should out compete the algae and it will diminish. So manually clean off the glass and gravel vacuum what you can, and add more plants and/or floating plants to out compete the algae.

Get one of these. It's a mini siphon perfect for small tanks. It doesn't have nearly the amount of suction of a large one, but it pulls up debris in a small tank perfectly.

You know a lot about betta tanks! Can you tell me what would be the best way to clean the gravel and log in my tank? A gravel vac seems like overkill, I was thinking about getting one of those things that look like a turkey baster to suck up the gunk that will accumulate along the bottom. I'm also planning a 20-25% water change every week, but I figure since it's not much, I can just scoop out the water with the plastic cup that my betta will come home in today (yay, I'm so excited to meet him!). Good plan, or no?

You really just need a siphon with a long head, like this one, if you don't have it already.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0002APRVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xJy2DbQXKKHDM

It's pretty easy to start, you don't need to submerge the whole siphon in your tank. Just pour water down the siphon, after it's filled up with water hold the other end of the siphon where the water comes out with your thumb. Submerge the long head in your tank fully, letting out any air bubbles. Then let go of your thumb. Water siphon starts right away.

The suction is weak, so it won't siphon up the sand. In a up and down motion, let your sand rise up and quickly raise your siphon. It'll go down. This is how I clean my tank for my corys.

:( All the sand falls back into place for me. Maybe mine is less strong; it has a pump insert http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Aquarium-Cleaner-10-Inch/dp/B004RK405A?ie=UTF8&keywords=aquarium%20siphon&qid=1463540082&ref_=sr_1_9&s=digital-text&sr=8-9 like this one but mine is super cheap.

My suction is also wider, so probably slower.

https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Gravel-Cleaner-Sludge-Extractor/dp/B003C5U2SU

I use this daily and love it. I only change water twice a month in my big tank so this helps keep it looking clean every day.

Do people refer to a specific python product model when they talk about how amazing they are? I have this one and it just seems like a normal old siphon to me

Amazon link with information: http://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Gravel-Cleaner-Sludge-Extractor/dp/B003C5U2SU

That is a neat tool. Thanks for the video.

The eheim is a vacuum that recirculates the water, so you can clean all the junk off the substrate between water changes. I would have never spend the money is cichlids weren't such nasty critters, lol,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003C5U2SU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506288299&sr=8-3&keywords=eheim+gravel+vac&dpPl=1&dpID=31cLttovLeL&ref=plSrch

You can also look into cheaper ones where you pour the water into a 5-gallon bucket, but this is totally worth the money. 5 gallon bucket is pretty heavy and it is hard to refill your tank imo.

I've got:
Python Pro Clean-Mini

As well as the squeeze starter reccomended with it and it works well. I use it for cleaning and water changes (as they go hand in hand).

Rig up a priming bulb like they use on a fuel line or something along these lines. Great setup you've got there!

Good idea. Too many people rush it with starter bacs or buying the animals with the tank. Most fish stores don't seem competent enough. :/
Plants might look like dying after you added them. That can be normal, no need to panic if that happens. Just wait it out. Also, some plants don't like low light or temp. Natural selection, I guess. Check out "aquasabi", they have a plant database with great filters.

www.amazon.com/Boxtech-Aquarium-Gravel-Cleaner-Air-Pressing/dp/B07HMT7GPP/
I use one like this.

Of course! Glad to help. We've all been there and I know I'm still learning new stuff every day.

I unplug everything and use this siphon (I'm sure any is fine though) to suck out water / any obvious debris into a small plastic bucket I happened to have on hand (it's a good idea to designate a bucket to your tank). Luckily for me it was a 1.5 gallon bucket so it's perfect for 50% water changes.

Once the bucket is full I kinda shake around / "brush off" the filter cartridge in the old tank water and put it back. From what I've learned this lets you get all the nasty crap off it without compromising the beneficial bacteria. Even running it under your sink for a bit is a bad idea because of the chlorine in tap water.

I just dump out the bucket in the toilet, flush it, then refill the bucket with tap water. I try and adjust the temperature to be about the same. Put in the water conditioner according to directions. I use API StressCoat+, which I like, but a lot of people here recommend SeaChem Prime. Then just slowly pour water into tank and plug everything back in!

Just removing water is fine. If you like you can purchase a siphon to help remove some waste from the gravel.
As for cleaning the sides, I find these very useful.

For a 3 gallon tank I would definitely do 20-30% water changes twice a week. I would not add any more fish, aside from maybe a snail. Adding any more fish would overstock your tank, causing it to get dirty faster and upping the chances of illnesses.


No. Cycling takes at least a few weeks. (read the article I posted in an earlier comment) You can keep track of where it is in the cycling process by doing daily water parameters tests. Here is a really good kit.

You have bare bottom. That's easier than having a substrate. Use a turkey baster or one of those small siphon. Aqueon Mini Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner, 5-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RK40VY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IqYPAbFJZ4MEW. Like this one.

Here's the gravel vacuum I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002APRT2/

It's got a nice low flow rate which is helpful for smaller tanks because otherwise you're done with the water change before you've actually had enough time to work through much gravel. I'd also recommend getting the squeeze-starter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017JHPA6/

It sounds like you may be feeding too much if that much food is uneaten and sinking into the gravel. Can you provide more info on your setup and feeding routines?

Here's a great video that shows you proper gravel vacuuming technique including how to start the siphon and how to control the water flow to separate the debris from the gravel (crimping the line).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYv5n0a85OY

This is the gravel vac that I use on my 5 gallon tank. Get the size rated for your aquarium.
https://www.amazon.com/Python-Pro-Clean-Mini-Tube-Hose/dp/B0002APRT2

What kind of filter is it? You could buy a smaller one, or buy/make a sponge filter, or make a baffle, there are lots of easy DIY tutorials like this one. You really need a filter though for the good bacteria to colonize. Read up on the nitrogen cycle, it's pretty much the most important part of keeping fish. To make this so much easier a test kit like this one is great. Liquid is best, strip are not very accurate. You can take water samples to fish stores and they will test it for you, but ask if it is liquid or strips and get exact numbers for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. A Good reading is 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and more than 0 but less than 20 nitrates.

As for the gravel, get a gravel vacuum. Because you are so over stocked, and are not likely to have completed a cycle, you should be doing lots of partial water changes. Press the vacuum into the gravel to disturb it and suck up the gunk when you do a water change. In a cycled tank that is not over stocked you would only need to do a partial water change one a week or once every 2 weeks.

Another note about the filter, the manufacturer directions will tell you to change the filter pad/media once a month. This is just throwing away all the good bacteria and will reset the cycle. If the filter pad gets really really dirty or is falling apart see if you can't put a second pad in with the first for 2 weeks to let the bacteria colonize the new pad before throwing away the old.

My issue was the siphon was just too big of a diameter for my tank. I am investing in one of these which I think will serve me a lot better.

And I do think I've been overfeeding. I was doing about 3 pellets in the morning before work and then 2-3 more later that night after I got home. I called a local pet store (well an hour away in the next town) and they said they feed every other day. So I'll just cut back to once a day from now on.

I'll try that with the next cartridge. I had already thrown the old one out when I changed the other night. But I'll keep it in mind. Thanks for the response!

Honestly, it's going to be kind of a pain to work in. I have a 29 gallon out of necessity (I didn't have space available for anything with a larger footprint) and often wish it was shallower.

They make gravel vacuums with longer rigid sections and in a more general sense, you can get tools designed for most of the work you'd do on any other tank, in larger/longer versions.

Get a step stool so you're not reaching over the tank and back down into it.

Fill it only partway with water while you're doing initial setup, so when you need to lean into it somewhat you stay drier.

Overall it is physically difficult and awkward, but it isn't drastically different from working on any other tank. It's just more reaching and usually getting more water on yourself, which is fine if you're prepared for cleanup.

Normally you only need to do 30-40%. You'll definitely want this siphon, anything bigger won't fit in your tank! You pump them up and down in your tank to get the water flowing so if the intake tube is too long then you can't get it started. It's an add-on item for Amazon though so you'll probably need to order the API test kits with it in order to be able to buy it. I've also seen them in Petco.

I also have a 5 gallon. The small sized gravel vaccuum is perfect for that size tank if you're interested in one. Here is where I got mine. I think with the 100% water changes and constant moving in and out of the tank you might be stressing your betta out....

I can't tell how big that is but something like this should work for a 6 gallon. http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Vacuum-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK40VY?ie=UTF8&keywords=small%20gravel%20vac&qid=1464546739&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

Take the sink attachment part from here: https://www.amazon.com/Waterbed-FILL-DRAIN-KIT-Blue-Magic/dp/B0084FFL7A

Get a garden hose of whatever kind you want.

Get a sink to garden hose adapter

Get a syphon hose of whatever variety you want/have ex: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004RK1WBK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1486358683&sr=8-5&keywords=aqueon+siphon+hose

Put this end on the syphon hose and screw into the garden hose.

Optional, shutoff valve( goes between syphon end and hose: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004SDYU/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1486358897&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=garden+hose+shut+off+valve&dpPl=1&dpID=51aJdogwv%2BL&ref=plSrch

Put all of this together with Teflon tape on all of the connections except between hose and sink attachment.

This isn't a out of the box solution, but this is what I would do if I could do it all over again.

I use one of these for my tanks under 10 gallons. Makes it easier and let's you do whatever you want to the gravel without losing track of time and draining half the tank in a few minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HMT7GPP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EHXCCbZBJE4ST

Not sure to be honest because I don't use one, but here are [the Amazon reviews on it.] (https://www.amazon.com/Python-Pro-Clean-Gravel-Washer-Aquarium/dp/B001V6Y3LY)

Found a good deal for my fellow aquarists:

http://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Gravel-Cleaner-Sludge-Extractor/dp/B003C5U2SU

1. Substrate is just a fancy name for the gravel/sand/dirt/some combo at the bottom of the tank. Though I think they mainly use substrate vice gravel to describe stuff that you have live plants in. As for vacuuming it they sell siphon [vacuums] (http://www.amazon.com/Lees-Large-Economy-Gravel-Vacuum/dp/B003JVGHO0/ref=sr_1_14?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1373493240&sr=1-14&keywords=aquarium+vacuum) you start a siphon and use the larger end to vacuum up the gunk from your substrate.
   
   
2. Fishless cycling is better for the fish and therefore the easier method. You can do fish in cycling in a pinch but it's stressful for the fish and can cause illness/death. If you have to do this try and get some water and/or filter media from an established tank that already has a bacteria colony to jump start the process. As for how it happens in fishless cycling see the sidebar though the basic gist is that those bacteria (like yeast bacteria and other beneficial bacteria) occur naturally in small quantities so if you add a food source for them they will build up to the point they can handle the waste from your fish.
   
   
3. Um the vacuum might work if it's well rooted and not too delicate but I mean if you have live plants, a good filter, good stocking, and do appropriate water changes it shouldn't be too big of a deal other than the whole bad aesthetics of having poop on your plant.
   

Yes! I have this: Petyoung Small Submersible Heater... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GRRWTDF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Also I have this gravel vacuum: Aquarium Gravel Cleaner Kit with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HM3SQN0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And the filter media that came with the tank says it should be changed every 3-4 weeks. Should I keep it up with all that other stuff or no?

Gravel vacing will have a huge impact on the nutrient imbalance. Have you tried a siphon with a gravel vac attachment? It really doesnt let any detritus back into the water.

This is the one I use. http://www.amazon.com/Python-Pro-Clean-Aquarium-Gravel-Washer/dp/B0002APRVK/ref=zg_bs_3048856011_5

Something like this might be what you're looking for.

I use this one for my 5 gallon tank, it works well for me. I use a 5 gallon home depot bucket to drain in to.

https://www.amazon.com/Python-Pro-Clean-Mini-Tube-Hose/dp/B0002APRT2/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2MJBGM3XMWERL&keywords=python+mini+siphon&qid=1567359317&s=gateway&sprefix=python+mini%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-2

a lot of people in the hobby use these: http://www.amazon.com/Python-Spill-Aquarium-Gravel-24-Inch/dp/B004PBHX4G


I dont know if this is the "sink siphon method" you're talking about, but I lose almost no water with this method. it allows you to go directly from your sink to the tank (and the opposite). Just make sure the temperature is pretty close to the tank, and you add Seachem Prime or whatever tap water treatment you use directly to the tank before adding the water. As far as reducing flow you can either purchase a smaller python tube, kink the line of a larger one, or use some form of displacement (like a plate or hand) between the tube and water.

Looks like you didn't rinse the gravel before adding it to the tank.

Get yourself an Aquarium Gravel Siphon and a bucket.

I just got a new tiny gravel vacuum for my five gallon and it's perfect. I can't believe all the time I've wasted with full-size vacs because that was all the stores had and I didn't even know small ones existed. It's tiny enough to get into the corners and around my plants, and it takes in water slowly enough to give me time for detailed cleaning. The self-start actually works, too, which I was surprised to see. I'm really pumped about it.

Aqueon 06226 Mini Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner, 5-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RK40VY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_69rJxbEM6CMGY

That should work for a one gallon. Try doing it with him in, if he tries getting sucked into the tube, yeah pull him out in a bowl for a couple minutes. If he keeps his distance he probably won't be happy if you take too long but should be alright.

I'm sure you heard of this, but just in case you hasn't: http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Vacuum-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK40VY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1450737645&sr=8-5&keywords=aquarium+siphon

Just bought [this one](Python 12PC Small Pro-Clean Gravel Washer and Siphon Kit https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0002APRVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uEM-ybE1C9B71) and it works well with my sand substrate.

Yeah!
Python Pro-Clean Aquarium Gravel Washer/Siphon Kit, Medium with Siphon Squeeze https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BDPFYEI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_uhdxzbHE0V0FK

Skip to ~3:00 to see it in action here with gravel https://youtu.be/G4Zi1g5vvYs

My guess would be that it could work with sand too, since sand is heavier than poop

Copper Test kit

You will want to use a small siphon. And don't dig into the substrate. Hover just above it.


Copper shouldn't be an issue unless you are using ferts with lots of copper... or you overdose ferts. iirc, Seachem has trace amounts of copper, not enough to cause issues unless you use the entire bottle at once.

Here ya go.

Here is the desktop version of your link

Would this work?

http://www.amazon.com/Python-Pro-Clean-Aquarium-Gravel-Squeeze/dp/B00BDPFYEI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I don't have a small siphon since I intended to do water changes with a cup.

http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Vacuum-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK40VY/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=mini+gravel+vacuum&qid=1568853650&s=gateway&sr=8-2 I have 3 sizes of these, and used the mini in my 2.5gallon. It's very slow for me, but maybe what you need.

what about an Aqueon Mini? https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Vacuum-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK40VY/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1494948619&sr=1-2&keywords=mini+aquarium+gravel+cleaner

https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Medium-Siphon-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK1WBK/ref=sr_1_10?crid=3VCBSQK9YVPU5&keywords=aquarium+siphon&qid=1549761252&s=gateway&sprefix=aquarium+si%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-10

A gravel vacuum


You can pick one up anywhere that sells fish stuff.

Buy an aquarium vacuum/siphon along with a bucket or get a hose long enough to go outside.

Pricy but probably what you are looking for

https://www.amazon.com/Python-Pro-Clean-Gravel-Washer-Aquarium/dp/B001V6Y3LY/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=fish+tank+siphone&qid=1574057375&sr=8-6

NEMO!

Buy this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003C5U2SU?cache=96fab02d9701f6a90f7c7a080f6bb7ef&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1407456721&sr=8-5#ref=mp_s_a_1_5 Basically what you asked for, right? Or am I not getting the idea?

gravel vacuum

I can help ya a bit. So the vacuum is thing. It comes in all different sizes and types. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002APRVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7hWLAbY8CEKAS

You use this to siphon out the water and every so often, shove it into the substrate and kida shimmy it. The poop and stuff gets sucked away and the substrate falls back down.

I do a simple water change 1 or 2 times a week, where I pull out a gallon(ish) then put in a gallon(ish) of fresh, to temperature, conditioned water. Every other week during a WC I vacuum the gravel, but I don't have issues with sunken food.

Here's a video on extensive tank cleaning, just keep in mind it's not recommended to do this much all the time. https://youtu.be/9h8KTYMHP5w

You can also search "how to vac substrate" "partial water change" on YT and watch a few videos.

They make various sizes of gravel vacs. Here's a baby one for small tanks.

https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Vacuum-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK40VY

If you're looking for that exact one it comes with aqueon water siphons. The sell the whole siphon and clip (which looks to be updated and new) on amazon as an add on item. It looks to be an add on item. No clue where you can buy the clip on it's own.

Siphon and clip

Buy this I have a very crowded tank from my hardscape and was always moving things around. I found that gravel vac and man is it a tim3 saver for me.

I have this vac:

Aquarium Gravel Cleaner Kit with priming bulb - 2-minutes to assemble - Facilitates frequent water changes - No need to remove fish or plants - BPA-free Siphon - Perfect for cleaning small fish tanks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HM3SQN0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EnV6AbJZV8V44

I just use the end with the "screen on it" after getting the flow started I just kinda dig it into the substrate and mess it up a little usually grabel clogs it up so you pull it out after, gravel falls out, then repeat. You probably have a good idea where the dirtiest areas are, usually corners or behind thick/big plants.

This video is really informativecfor cleaning. Around 8ish minutes is when he starts vac'ing
https://youtu.be/J-irFjxJAzQ

Are you referring to these? They contain a one-way valve, with a moving part. When you push down, the valve opens, letting water into the tube, but when you pull up the valve closes, holding the water in the tube so that it builds up as you shake up and down.

It started very slowly a couple-few weeks ago but I’ve been so busy with work I haven’t had a chance to do anything about it yet unfortunately. I have a gravel vac and a siphon starter but I’m thinking about getting this bulb syringe thing to remove Betta poop instead.

Like this? http://www.amazon.com/Python-Pro-Clean-Aquarium-Gravel-Washer/dp/B0002APRVK/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1425940229&sr=1-4&keywords=python+siphon#Ask

I didn't know you could add dechloronator after the fact, I've been doing it beforehands. Should I be concerned about my fish getting sucked up! They're quite small.

I have crushed black gravel and I could see it being something I'd enjoy to an extent.

Not from requested regions, but this is what I could think of:

1. To remove solid waste, using recirculating gravel cleaner, with a bag, that could be replaced by 50 micron pad, shaped to a bag. Discard after use. Mesh of Eheim gravel cleaner pulverizes poop too much. This one looks even better, custom mechanical media could be added.
   
   
2. Floating plants to remove nitrates. Discard excess of them from time to time.
   
   
3. Disposable filter floss in the filter, changed frequently.
   
   
4. Granulated activated carbon should absorb excreted substances that can't be tested. Changed frequently too. It requires pre-washing, but this could be done in limited amount of water.
   
   
5. If something has to be siphoned out, thin rigid tubing with airline, attached to it, would reduce amount of removed water.
   
   
6. See if Chihiros Doctor device could help with general tank health.

no a python gravel vac that doesnt hook up to the sink



http://www.amazon.com/Python-Pro-Clean-Aquarium-Gravel-Washer/dp/B0002APRVK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463447786&sr=8-3&keywords=gravel+siphon

I've been considering buying this instead:

https://www.amazon.com/KollerCraft-Cleaner-Battery-Operated-Gravel/dp/B003OYOPNW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1474004750&sr=8-5&keywords=gravel+vac

It doesn't remove or replace the water though.

I've also considered buying just the part of the Python that attaches to the sink and the tubing, then buying a length of tubing to reach as far as I need and using the end of the simple gravel vac I already have. All I would really be missing is the shut off valve at the end, so I would have to turn the water on and off at the sink.

I'm using pool filter sand and a siphon similar to this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002APRVK/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1463538689&sr=8-4&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=aquarium+siphon there's always junk that doesn't want to get sucked up unless I actually touch the sand, causing me to get a bunch of sand along with it.

if there's too much build-up and it looks gross, try a gravel vac (just a small one like this) and just suck it out as part of your regular water change ;)

When you expand, this might be a handy tool for you: AquaAdvisor

Right now, if I were you, I would purchase:

HOB Nano filter

Siphon Water changer/gravel vacuum - Carry your aquarium over to a drain. Keep an empty two liter handy to pour freshwater back in.

You cycled your tank, right? If not, you may want to pour some of this in there to help.

Water Test Kit Keep track 2x a week. Small tanks are more difficult since water conditions can go bad quite quickly. Keeping an aquarium is not about fish, it's about chemistry.

Spiral CFL bulb to replace the incandescent you probably have. Incandescents suck and heat your aquarium way too much.

Thermometer Glass, with suction cup.

Light timer Trust me, keeping that light on all day is only going to cause algae, and won't make your plants grow quicker. 6 hours in the beginning, 8 hours max.

Heater 25 watt, keep at 80 degrees. The gradient lines will NOT be accurate.

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Low-tech tank care Study this, and pay attention to the dry fertilization part.

Thanks! I have sand in my aquarium and I've been using this gravel vacuum http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Medium-Siphon-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK1WBK/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1414548781&sr=8-10&keywords=gravel+vacuum
I have debris at the bottom of my tank from my plants but I'm having trouble getting them out using the one I have :/

I have a cheap gravel vac for my 5 gallon. It takes awhile to get used to sucking the water into the hose, but it works to suck up the crap at the bottom. I also have a magnet scrubber for the sides. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0002APRVK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 gravel vac. https://www.amazon.ca/Gulfstream-Tropical-Mag-Float-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B0002568ZO/ magnet scrubber