Reddit mentions: The best homebrew filters & strainers
We found 67 Reddit comments discussing the best homebrew filters & strainers. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 18 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. 12" Boil Screen 1/2" NPT Fitting
- Completely stainless steel
- 12" long
- Easy to install
- Will last a lifetime
- 1/2" male NPT thread to fit may brew pots
Features:
Specs:
Color | Silver |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 12 Inches |
Weight | 0.02 Pounds |
Width | 1 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
2. Happybrew 300 Micron Mesh Stainless Steel Dry Hopper for Cornelius Kegs Corny Keg Homebrewing,70mmx300mm by
Specs:
Color | Silver |
Number of items | 1 |
3. Beer Dry Hopper Filter,Stainless Steel Hop Strainer Micron Mesh Beer Filter Cartridge (2.8 x 11 inch)
Dry hopper perfect for beer,coffee,beverage and other drinks,use to filterout impurities,make the beer, drinks taste betterBeer brewing filter great for your home brewing equipment and easy to cleanThese dry hop filters are great for holding hops in your cornelius kegsEasy to Use: Simply place this ...
Specs:
Color | Sliver |
Weight | 0.35 Pounds |
Size | 2.8 x 11 inch |
4. Yosoo 29x7cm Stainless Steel Homebrew Beer Dry Hopper Filter with 300 Micron Mesh for Cornelius Kegs Corny Keg - Silver (Hopper Filter)
★GREAT BEER FILTRATION- Made of stainless steel, features 300 micron mesh. Measures 11.75 Inches in Length; 2.75 Inches in Diameter. Facility to filter. It‘s designed for kettle brewing systems to contain hops while keeping debris out of pumps, chillers, and finished beer, resulting in a clearer...
Specs:
Color | Silver |
Height | 12.204724397 Inches |
Length | 2.755905509 Inches |
Width | 2.755905509 Inches |
Size | Hopper Filter |
Number of items | 1 |
5. HomeBrewStuff 10" Beer Filtration Kit with Ball Lock Fittings
10" Filter housing can be used to filter water also5 micron cartridge included2 Liquid side ball lock connectors with hoses
6. 400 Micron Stainless Steel Home Brewing Beer Brewing Hop Filter Hop Spider Father's Day Gift (5.9' x 13.78')
- Material : Stainless steel Size:5.9 x 13.78 inch (Diameter x Height) Please carefully check your container's size before you purcharse.
- For low temperature and high temperature environment. Uniform porosity, precision filtration precision.
- he corrosion resistance, heat resistance, pressure resistance, good wear resistance. After cleaning can be used again, free replacement.
- Can be used for any kind of filtering 400 micron ,Good filtering performance, of 2-200 um filter size all can play a uniform surface filtration performance.
- Package includes: 1 x 400 Micron Multipurpose Basket Beer Filter Cartridger. Free replacement , 100% money back warranty for any defective products,just contact us if you have any problems.
Features:
Specs:
Color | 5.9' x 13.78' |
Size | 5.9"*13.78" |
Number of items | 1 |
7. MRbrew Stainless Steel 6'' Kettle Tube Mash Tun Mesh Filter Bazooka Spigot Pot Filter Boil Screen Brew for Home Brew (6 inch)
6'' mashing/boiling bazooka kettle screen304 stainless steel mesh screen,smooth surface,heavy duty and will last foreverLimit hop particles from making it into your product.Used with mash tun,boiling kettleVarious usage:Perfect for all-grain brewing or straining out leaf hops after your boil , repla...
8. Outamateur 300 Micron Filter Stainless Steel Mesh Dry Hopper Brewing Filter Tea Kettle Brew Filter for Homebrew of Beer Wine Coffee (2.9 x 11.8)
- Includes Raiden V Original Soundtrack CD
- New ship damage system (uses health bar, not lives)
- 3 distinct ships with different Defense, Mobility, and sub-weapons
- New "Cheer Attack" that greatly boosts sub-weapons for a short time
- Supports 1 - 2 players (offline)
Features:
9. Beer Dry Hopper Filter,ProMaker Stainless Steel Hop Strainer Micron Mesh Beer Filter Cartridge (2.8 X 11.8 inch)
★【Premium Quality】-- Made of food grade premium 304 stainless steel,heavy duty and durable,it has good corrosion resistance and heat resistance performance, pressure resistance and good wear resistance,can be used many times with a long service life★【Good Filtering Performance】-- Stomata...
Specs:
Color | Silver |
Height | 2.8 Inches |
Length | 12.1 Inches |
Width | 2.9 Inches |
Size | 2.8 X 11.8 inch |
10. 300 Micron Mesh Stainless Steel Dry Hopper Filter Screen - Perfect For Dry Hopping In Cornelius Corny Kegs Or Hopping In Your Boil Pot. The Only Dry Hopper With Mesh Over The Holes In The Lid
The ONLY Dry Hopper With 300 Micron Mesh Covering the Larger Holes In The Top!Our dry hop filter is made with the weekend home brewer in mind! When dry hopping in a keg, this filter allows the hop oils to infuse into your beer while keeping the leaf or pellet neatly contained within the filter.Not H...
Specs:
Length | 30 Centimeters |
11. Homebrew Hops Filter Screen
- Soft-sided insulated lunchbox for kids and adults keeps food cold at school, the office, or job site
- Fully insulated interior keeps food cold until lunchtime; interior zippered mesh pocket holds utensils and condiments
- Sturdy haul handle at top of lunch tote; triple needle-stitch construction
- Durable synthetic fabric with Rain Defender water repellent withstands rugged use
- Lunch box cooler measures 10w x 7.5h x 4d inches; weighs 0.4 pounds; manufacturer's limited warranty against defects in materials and workmanship
Features:
12. YUEWO Filter Extra Large13.7x13.7 Inch Brewing Hopper Spider Strainer 304 Stainless Steel 300-400 Micron Mesh Homebrew Hops Beer Tea Kettle Brew Filter
- 🤠【Filter Size】Filter has a 13.7-inch height and 13.7-inch diameter (35cm x 35cm) Weight:1.1kg
- 🤠【Built to Last】: 300-400micron mesh that will not wrinkle or damage easily; Frame made from firm stainless steel for strength and longevity; Will resist rust, corrosion, heat, and pressure; Enables easier sterilization prior to brewing and easy cleanup
- 🤠【Easy to Use】 during the boil, hops can be poured directly into the spider; For any standard electric brewing system
- 🤠【EASY Care】 you can put in the dishwasher as a separate load with no soap, or simply use a garden hose to wash it out; A no-rinse cleaner and sponge after you rinse it off also works
- 🤠【Filter Beer,Coffee,Tea】We love beer, but what is better than the beverage itself is the satisfaction of creating it is designed for kettle brewing systems to contain hops while keeping debris out of pumps, chillers, and finished beer, resulting in a clearer beer and better taste; Suitable for brewing beer, filtering coffee, making compost tea
Features:
Specs:
Color | 13.7*13.7 inch |
Size | 13.7*13.7Inch |
13. YaeBrew 6 X 14 Inch Hop Spider 300 Micron Mesh Stainless Steel Hop Filter Strainer Hopper for Home Brewing Beer Tea Kettle (6"X14")
Hope Spider Filter for home brew lovers, suitable for brew bucket fermenter, a great tool for family brewingThis brew filter prevent hop trub from getting in your brew buckets;Material: Stainless steel, anti-rust and hot-resistantEasy to clean, better filtration than Beer cloth bagsHang it at the si...
Specs:
Color | Silver |
Height | 7.086614166 Inches |
Length | 2.362204722 Inches |
Width | 2.362204722 Inches |
Size | 6"X14" |
14. Gooday Multipurpose Stainless Steel Cartridge Hop Spider Beer Hops Filter 300 Micron,17.9 x 5.9 x 3.94 inches
- Solid construction spider ,very sturdy and Plenty big enough for 10-12 gallon batches with lots of hops.Thick stainless bar can make the filter stand on its own.Simple enough to clean up ,can make your beer turns out well, with lots of hop flavor and aroma.
- Great hop filter, can works fantastic job for home brewing , keeping hop waste out of the boil kettle and can make your beer looks clear pumping out from from the plate chiller,no crud in the bottom and no hop mess stuck to the sides. Just rinse it out , No clogs during cool down process and no crud coming out when flushing the chiller, works perfectly.
- Perfectly fits for Blichmann 20gal Boilmaker,better than Hop spiders with nylon bags. can also use as a filter during transfers.Can be used at low temperature and high temperature environment. The corrosion resistance, heat resistance, pressure resistance, good wear resistance.
- Uniform porosity, precision filtration precision. Can be used for any kind of filtering 300 micron ,Good filtering performance, of 2-200 um filter size all can play a uniform surface filtration performance.
- Material: 304 Stainless steel
; Size:45.5 cm/17.9 inches length , 15 cm/5.9 inches Upper Dia, 10 cm/3.94 inches button Dia.
Features:
Specs:
Color | siliver |
Height | 5.9 Inches |
Length | 17.1 Inches |
Width | 3.94 Inches |
Size | 5.9 x 11.72 Inch |
15. Brewing 1 Gallon Hopper Spider Strainer, Stainless Steel 300 Micron Mesh – Homebrew Hops Beer & Tea Kettle Brew Filter
- All new integrated metal kickstand with magnetic snap for easy use
- Redesigned frame with extra reinforcement for enhanced durability to impacts
- Dual layered protection for better protection and handleability & Slim profile for no added bulk
- Raised lip protection around the Device's screen and camera lens
- Apple iPhone 5.8 Case Compatible with Apple iPhone 5.8
Features:
Specs:
Height | 5.99999999388 Inches |
Length | 16.49999998317 Inches |
Weight | 0.9 Pounds |
Width | 8.99999999082 Inches |
16. LD Carlson 4718 Brew-in-A-Bag Straining Bag with Handles (24x26)
- Brew-in-a-Bag straining bag with handles
- Item Package Dimension: 9.8031495963" L x 1.8110236202" W x 1.181102361" H
- Item Package Weight: 1.0 lb
- Model Number: 4718
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Weight | 0.1543235834 Pounds |
Release date | August 2017 |
Number of items | 1 |
17. 300 Micron Mesh Hopper Spider Strainer Stainless Steel Hop Spider Beer Hops Filter Tea Kettle Brew Filter (6.1 x 13.98 Inch)
300 Micron Mesh Stainless Steel : Uniform porosity, precision filtration precision.Can be used for any kind of filtering 300 micron,make your beer turns out well, with lots of hop flavor and aroma. suitable forEasy to use: Spider strainer with handle ,2 kettle hanging hooks on top end of basket,keep...
Specs:
Color | siliver |
Size | 6.1 x 13.98 Inch |
18. Tala 7.5 cm Stainless Steel Sieve, Grey by Tala
Tala 7.5 cm Stainless Steel Sieve, Grey
Specs:
Color | Gray |
Height | 0.77559055039 Inches |
Length | 3.40944881542 Inches |
Width | 1.27165354201 Inches |
Release date | July 2014 |
Size | 8cm |
Number of items | 1 |
🎓 Reddit experts on homebrew filters & strainers
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where homebrew filters & strainers are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Looks like the last piece of the puzzle is the mash tun - you need to convert a large cooler (10 gallons is a good size). If you have one with a drinking spout, you can unscrew the spout and install a ball valve. The inside end of the ball valve then attaches to something you use for lautering (filtering the wort out of the mash).
Ball valves are maybe $5 at Lowe's/Home Despot. You need some PTFE tape to seal the threads, and maybe a neoprene washer or two (although you can probably steal those from the existing spout you unscrewed from the cooler).
For filtration, you have a couple options --
I also recommend a thermometer, but honestly I think putting one into the cooler is pointless. Get a digital insta-read version like the thermapen, worth every penny of $100, and you can use it in the mash, on the wort, and while cooking. With a hand-held unit you can take temperature readings at different locations in the mash, and the thermapen probe is about 8 inches long.
Stainless mesh hop strainers are amazing for racking liquid off of fruit. Something like this.
I recently made a melomel with 30# of crushed blueberries and about 18# of honey. It hit about the 5 gallon mark. As you can expect it was pretty crowded in the bucket. I gently finessed the strainer down into the mead, put my racking cane inside the strainer, and racked out into secondary. I doubt a single bit of fruit made its way in there and the siphon didn't get stuck at all.
In the end I was able to get about 2.8 gallons of mead without pressing which is pretty much what I was expecting to get. Pretty impressed!
Mine was super easy to build and has served me for about 4+ years now.
The cooler requires no modification. Simply remove the plastic spigot, and install the new ball valve.
The bazooka screen is a bit longer than the diameter of the cooler. Simply bend the end up slightly and it should fit. The new nipple on the ball valve fits 1/2" ID hoses.
Brew days go pretty smoothly, haven't had a stuck mash yet. Filters well as long as you vorlauf and set the grain bed. My efficiency is around 75% currently, using the Batch sparge method.
You sya you don't have the tools to make the mash tun and brew pot. I assemlbe my mash tun, HLT, and brew pot with two 10inch adjustable wrenches, a standard dewalt drill, a carbonate cutting bit, a stepped cutting bit, and some cutting oil. If you have the drill everything else would cost around 50 bucks, then you also gain tools with your equipment. The hardest part is cutting holes in the pot for a thermometer.
Either way to make the Mashtun and MTL you would only need 2 10 inch adjustable wrenches.
Up to you, but here is some all grain kits you could look at:
http://www.austinhomebrew.com/10-Gallon-Igloo-Cooler-Mash-Tun-With-False-Bottom-AND-Hot-Liquor-Tank_p_6699.html
https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Cooler-Stainless-Steel-Screen/dp/B013KJKAC0/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1486068034&sr=8-9&keywords=10+gallon+mash+tun
You can make a 10 gallon mash tun for under 100 dollars:
10 Gallon cooler (~$50)
https://www.amazon.com/Igloo-Gallon-Beverage-dispenser-Dispenser/dp/B000F6SHTK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486068151&sr=8-1&keywords=10+gallon+cooler
Ball Valve(~$15)
https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Brewing-Wl301-Stainless-Weldless/dp/B00OC8DXPA/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486068175&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=wedless+ball+valve
Screen (~$8)
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Bazooka-Screen-Fitting/dp/B003ISY2DC/ref=pd_sim_468_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003ISY2DC&pd_rd_r=45GNPGH763R20241728C&pd_rd_w=MCZcu&pd_rd_wg=n4Wsv&psc=1&refRID=45GNPGH763R20241728C
1/2 female npt fitting(~$5)
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Fitting-Coupling-Female/dp/B003GSKXUU/ref=pd_sim_328_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003GSKXUU&pd_rd_r=SMJAVJR6CYZ7P9ZBQBQQ&pd_rd_w=h6v7j&pd_rd_wg=eclPX&psc=1&refRID=SMJAVJR6CYZ7P9ZBQBQQ
Total: 78 dollars. You can buy 2 10 inches adjustable wrenches for 20 dollars (https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-90-949-10-Inch-MaxSteel-Adjustable/dp/B000NIDIXA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486068379&sr=8-1&keywords=10+inch+adjustable+wrench)
so even having to buy tools its still under 100 dollars to make the Mash tun. The hot liquor tank will be the same price minus the screen, npt fitting, and tools. I personally made mine even cheaper buy using a 5 gallon htl instead of a 10 gallon and that will drop the price 25 more dollars. There is 0 drilling involved you simply unscrew the old plastic tap and put the weld ball valve in its place, it took me less than 10 min to make my new HTL on Monday.
Also, and this is really important to why I say build yourself, any mash tun you buy is going to be put together the same way it just matters whether you put it together or someone else does, either way the quality will be identical.
If you need a sparge arm for fly sparge you can make that out of pvc pipe: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-jgmgbwvg4
My two cents, even though you don't believe in you. I do, if you feel like saving money you can absolutely make all this stuff yourself and it doesn't require you be good at anything more than thinking like a logical person.
I used one of these for my last batch that I bottled yesterday and it worked very well to keep the fermenter trub to a minimum, and it also allowed the hops to be fully submerged, introducing all that wonderful hop oil to the fermenting wort.
Hops will introduce DO to the fermenting wort, so it's important to dry hop at high krausen so the yeast has plenty of opportunity to push that oxygen out. I imagine you're adding dry hops too late to the party, so there's increased DO in the fermenter and the fermentation has slowed to the point where the DO is sticking around too long.
I almost always dry hop on day 2 or 3 at the very latest, and found that there was more oxidation to my NEIPAs when I did a second dry hop at day 7 or so, so I've just started chucking all of my dry hops in at once to minimize the amount of oxygen I'm introducing.
Using two steel kettles like that sounds very expensive. How about an upright cooler with a false bottom? There are kits for converting Igloo-brand coolers in this way, like this.
That being said, if your efficiency is bad with a rectangular plastic cooler and braided hose, I'm not entirely sure that your efficiency will be much better with a different style of MLT. I did find that replacing my braided SS hose with a bazooka screen made things a bit easier since it doesn't get crushed in the grain like my SS braid did.
Alright! So the sparge arm is this connected to this.
I only had to modify the mash tun a little. I had to put a hole in for the thermocouple probe (bigger hole on the outer wall) and a hole in the lid for the sparge arm. Other than that, i just put my bazooka and associated fittings through the existing spigot hole.
As for capping, yes, plain old hand capper. Hopefully I'll be doing more kegging though and won't be required to do so many bottles.
I use this hop spider and hang it on the rim:
400 Micron Stainless Steel Home Brewing Beer Brewing Hop Filter Hop Spider (5.9' x 13.78') https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078RFSQJB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_qTW4CbAD9QRVS
It’s a bit large and does limit whirlpool motions, but I’m sticking with it. I love to brew hop heavy IPAs and any other approach would be more problematic IMO. I’ll stir the hop spider contents throughout the boil, whirlpool etc to help assure its mixing with the wort. I don’t see any green sediment in my brew kettle when all done.
I’ve clogged my pump only twice in ~16 brews, early on I wasn’t controlling grain ingress below the false bottom. In both cases I blew back into the pump and cleared it up.
Stand by:
Ball Valve
False Bottom
10 gallon cooler
False Bottom - Valve adapter
Please shop around. I have no doubt you could get some of this stuff for cheaper. I was restricted in that my only form of currency was Amazon gift cards. Especially the adapter could be built / constructed for much cheaper than I paid.
Additionally, instead of the false bottom / adapter, one could simply employ a Bazooka Screen instead of a false bottom, I have just read that false bottoms are more effective and less prone to problems.
DISCLAIMER - Always do your own research and make sure the parts that you are buying are all compatible and properly sized, etc. etc.
Having said that, the parts I listed above are exactly what I ordered and all fit together perfectly, I just needed to go out and buy a female coupler (to attach the valve to the hose from the false bottom) and a washer (per the included instructions with the valve, which had a additional washer for my configuration).
Looks very nice but I think you could have saved yourself a lot of work and easier cleaning by simply going with one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Bazooka-Kettle-Screen-brew-kettle/dp/B003ISY2DC
Check out /r/Homebrewing and just start saving. Even 2 dollars a day with you and a friend and you could be rolling in a couple months.
edit: also start saving glass bottles that require a bottle opener. Those are reusable.
edit2: Things you'll need. Feel free to find similar products.
cooler with spigot
valve(I'm not sure of the size on that igloo)
bazooka screen
bottles(make sure they're brown)
caps
capper
some sort of gas stove. say a propane stove, a turkey fryer, or a kitchen stove.
a large pot
starsan
I'm probably forgetting things.
Possibly, but look at this instead. I just bought one, and it's working out great. Cheaper than the one you linked to, as well.
I have a couple of questions regarding dry hopping in a keg. I am looking for a more efficient and better way to to do this. I purchased one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHSI9WO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and my plan would be the following:
1-After primary move the beer to a dryhop keg.
2-Insert the tube with the hops in the keg. Give it some CO2 pressure to seal it.
3-Dry hop for 5 days.
4-prepthe serving keg.
5-connect the two kegs.
6-transfer beer to serving keg.
A few questions:
-I should dry hop at room temp?
-I shouldn't carbonate until the beer gets to the serving keg?
-Any other tips?
Thanks.
This isn't free, and there may be an easier solution but here's one possibility - look into "bazooka filters." They are mesh tubes used in homebrew beer for filtering out grains and hops and work well to keep kombucha scoby from clogging your spigot. They are designed with 1/2" NPT threads to thread onto matching stainless steel ball valves on the inside of homebrew beer kettles. IF the hole in your fermentation vessel is the right diameter though, you could likely swap out the whole spigot for what I'm talking about.
For example, check out this amazon listing for a 6" long filter.
https://www.amazon.com/MRbrew-Stainless-Kettle-Filter-Bazooka/dp/B07122LN4K
See the "Frequently bought together" for the other parts you'd need to swap out all the parts. The nipple on the end of the ball valve they show there is a separate piece that is threaded in so for a more convenient spigot for filling bottles/cups, you could replace that straight nipple with a 90 degree nipple that angles down. Or, you could just slide a short length of flexible food grade tubing onto the end of the nipple and call it a day.
Thanks, this does look interesting but it also looks expensive for what it is and I bet all that loose screen is tough to clean afterwards.
I was thinking about doing the exact same thing except with one of the canister hop filters you can buy everywhere. Drill a hole in the top for the dip tube and get a rubber washer/grommet like this has. Then you could dry hop loose and the dip tube would be enclosed by the filter.
Something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Outamateur-Micron-Stainless-Brewing-Homebrew/dp/B07GPX8DL3
In place of the diptubes-- nothing. The valve port is high enough that the trub settles nicely under it after cold crashing. I do dry hop in these stainless mesh baskets, they work great.
I recently got on of these guys Dry Hopper
I used it for a tropical IPA for a party last week, and it went rather well. No hop particles and no clogged dip tube. The top is pretty secure on it, too.
Yeah I'm excited to use these Aussie hops and got a great deal from Yakima Valley Hops.
For keg dry hop I will use this 300 micron mesh dry hopper.
For closed transfer, as I use a Fermonster I have modified a Fermonster lid by drilling two holes and inserting 2 rubber grommets (one for a long stainless steel racking cane, one for carbonation cap). I'll purge keg with CO2, attach stainless steel cane to keg liquid post then slowly add pressure and try to keep the cane above and away from hop particulates in the Fermonster. Not sure how this will play out in reality though but I'm hoping my trub will be compact enough to not give me any issues.
I failed to mention, you'd want to fit the cooler with either a bazooka tube like this http://www.amazon.com/Bazooka-Kettle-Screen-brew-kettle/dp/B003ISY2DC or a false bottom like this http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-an-awesome-Mash-Tun-Less-than-60-Bucks-False/ I've heard the bazooka tubes can clog so I personally went with the false bottom. It would also be prudent to fit a ball valve on the outside of the cooler to attach a hose for draining into your boil kettle.
I use one too, with similar efficiency. I don't really want higher than mid-70s because that's what recipes are generally built for. Here's one on Amazon for about the same as what it would cost to build a SS braid filter: http://www.amazon.com/Bazooka-Screen-brew-kettle-mash/dp/B003ISY2DC
Plus, it's 1/2" MPT already, so it should thread directly into the bulkhead you attach for your ball valve. Easy peasy.
One thing is that for the 10gal Igloo cooler the 12" are slightly too long. I just bent the last 1-1 1/2" back on itself.
I recently picked up one of these -- haven't used it yet, but I intend to just drop it in and let it sink. I actually like that it sinks so that I know I am getting complete submersion -- I was always suspicious of how much I was getting out of the socks that would float at the top.
To your inquiry of how will it be fastened -- it won't, but I really can't think of how that could be an issue. Instead of retrieving the hops, I would recommend that you push your beer to an empty corny and leave the hops behind -- way better in concerns of exposure/quality.
EDIT: Looked around on amazon a bit more and apparently some come with a small chain, but you still have a valid question -- not exactly sure what it would be attaching to...
I have one, haven't used it for keg hopping yet, only secondary fermentation. I've heard good things from people using this with a keg, but would definitely look for one with the filter in the cap.
I bought this at a cheaper price weeks ago. It might also be possible to add a screen after the fact
I started with the bazooka screen linked below. I have brewed 12 batches with it and have no intention of "upgrading" to a false bottom. Make sure you select the one that is sold by Arbor Fabricating. For some reason it is only $.50 plus $4.99 shipping right now and it is really well made. I actually just bought a backup when I saw how cheap they are. :)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ISY2DC
We've looked at a couple, but decided on this filter as it was a bit more practical. Is this the one you're referring to? http://www.amazon.com/Home-Brew-Stuff-BF-10C-Filtration/dp/B00420OIT8
Water quality is our next big project we're looking at. While our filter performs fine, we'd like to do some more testing and build specific water profiles in the future.
After dry hopping with my hop sock and realizing I can't get the knot undone to re-use it, I've decided to get one of the metal hop spiders like this one. only question I have is that they all seem to have those big holes at the top (like a salt shaker), don't they defeat the purpose of the fine mesh? Do I need to tie this kind of hop spider to the lid of my fermenter to keep it from falling over, because that seems unnecessary when it could just have a solid top
I batch sparge. I bought this cooler: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Coleman-70-Quart-Xtreme-Cooler/4807332 and a screen like this: http://www.amazon.com/Bazooka-Screen-brew-kettle-mash/dp/B003ISY2DC
The cooler was on sale and cost me $25. (Looks like they might not be selling it anymore). The screen was about $20. They've lasted me a long time and I can do enormous batches (10 gal batches up to OG 1.080 or so without sugar or extract additions, or any strength 5 gal batches). Efficiency sits around 70%.
For batch sparging, the equipment doesn't seem to matter too much. If you don't grind too fine and are careful with your grain composition (not too much wheat) you won't have sticking problems, and there's no point in being fancy with the manifold since it's a batch sparge.
I am not (yet) qualified to speak on fly sparging. I'm trying to figure out a setup for it but it will take a bit more planning.
This is all I use in my igloo, and it works great:
http://www.amazon.com/Bazooka-Screen-brew-kettle-mash/dp/B003ISY2DC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406924473&sr=8-1&keywords=bazooka+screen
I’d recommend something like this to put the peaches in. You should also keep then in through fermentation. I’d also start with 3 lbs for a 5 gallon batch.
That's the biggest problem with using the braided stainless steel hose as a false bottom; it has zero structural integrity. I'd recommend buying at least a kettle screen to replace it, though it seems like you've already found a work-around.
Buy something like these (I'm sure you can find a better price than that, I think they were only about $5 each when I bought them) and put them onto the dip tube in each keg. First time I kegged a beer that I had dry hopped with pellets, it clogged the liquid out post almost immediately (I didn't even dry hop in the keg, I'm just talking about the smaller amount of hop matter that came through when I siphoned into the keg). I cleared the clog, and it happened again almost immediately.
Once I bought those screens, I've never had a problem, and that includes times when I've tossed hops directly into the keg. You will get a clog eventually, if you don't. It might be hops, it might be matter from a fruit/chocolate/whatever addition, but it'll be something.
I haven't used coconut in a tincture, so I can't speak to if that is preferable option to what you have.
I have added coconut to the fermenter in a dry hopper to good results. I would suggest using something like that or the muslin bag, because the shredded coconut can very easily clog siphon lines and keg post, which are always a pain to clear. And it unfortunately takes only one little shred to do that.
I recently did a toasted coconut porter and "dry hopped" 12 oz. in the fermenter for over a week and then used the dry hopper I referenced earlier with an additonal 12oz. in the keg itself. Definitely came out coconuty but was well balanced with the porter itself, so wasn't like drinking coconut milk or anything. It did seem to hurt head retention at first, but as I drank through the keg, that seemed to clear up a bit.
Let's talk about keg to keg closed transfers. My first transfer experience was successful. My second transfer didn't work due to hop matter blocking the dip tube at the top of the keg. Any reccomendations how to avoid this in the future? Something like this or this?
I added a Kettle Valve to each of the kettles. I am building a sparge arm out of CPVC that easily connects to the HLT valve. Plan on just connecting a piece of sanitized hose to the valve on the boil tank as needed for moving into fermentation buckets. I also have the screen on the boil tank for helping to remove leftover boil/hop sediment (hopefully this won't plug).
$7 Amazon US.
£90 Amazon UK!
Whaaaaaat!
I was planning to order one custom sized from alibaba, but there’s one on amazon too. the Amazon one only holds about 8 gallons (if my math is right), so it would work for 5 gallon batches if it fits in your pot.
What type do you have? I have a pretty standard one that hooks to the side of the kettle. It works pretty well, but you need to use a metal spoon to scrape the bottom and sides occasionally or it will sort of clog up.
I can vouch for the quality of HomeBrewStuff's products. Their pots are very solid. You can also add the bazooka screen to mash in it as well.
I don't use a conical, and I do cold crash...but neither of those matter if you contain your hops in a stainless mesh tube. By tossing your hops in one of these, they'll stay contained in that tube so your transfer can't possibly suck the hop matter in. The metal tube also makes sure the hops sink and get full immersion in your beer, maximizing extraction.
Morning all,
I recently made the switch to kegging my homebrew and have had a few problems with clogged dip tubes and heavy foaming. I ordered a filter for my next batch, which should be kegged in the next few days. Do you guys have any other helpful suggestions as to how to make beer better for kegging? Also, I am adjusting pressure on the keg rather than changing the line lengths, as my kegerator is a prebuilt unit and I really don't want to mess with lines if I don't have to.
Kegerator is a single tap, inkbird temperature controller, two USB powered fans for draft tower cooling. Inkbird is setup to measure liquid temp and is set to 38F.
This is the filter I purchased.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00420OIT8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486742857&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=water+filter+beer&dpPl=1&dpID=41dx2L-RvGL&ref=plSrch
edit: kegged, not legged.. although some legging could be quite tasty!
I have this - http://www.amazon.com/Bazooka-Screen-brew-kettle-mash/dp/B003ISY2DC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380734556&sr=8-1&keywords=hop+bazooca
I had to fold in the end a little to fit in a 10 gallon cooler conversion. Usually get 80% efficiency with batch sparging and have only had one stuck sparge.
What is you plan for a mash tun? I went with a 10g Home Depot cooler and something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Weldless-Stainless-Bulkhead-Nipple/dp/B00JHMRH2Q
This is the cooler: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rubbermaid-40-qt-Orange-Water-Cooler-FG1610HDORAN/202260809
You’ll also need a screen or false bottom. I think the screen is a ver economical option https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Bazooka-Screen-Fitting/dp/B003ISY2DC
I bought a stainless steel dry hopping device for kegs. It works really well.
A hop spider like this would do the trick.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M9FBFS5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3L7JzbDA1M7PR
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XKMLQG3/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_HV4FDbSW3JM2P
I use this one with my 14 gallon kettle. It just barely touches the bottom of my kettle and works well for me.
>in day 3-4 and then closed transfer to a keg with 3oz loose in the keg
Personally I do mine on day 1 or 2, at high krausen. As for loose, save yourself the hassle of clogged posts and get something like this for keg hopping. Works great. I've never had grassy/off flavors doing this, and I tend to take a solid month or two to kill a keg.
I use a fine mesh dry hop tube like this: Amazon link
But you can also just buy a replacement dip tube you use for fermenting for $10 at AIH, possibly elsewhere.
I once had a problem even when using a shortened dip tube and the mesh filter - the lid somehow popped off the filter during fermentation and I had lots of hop bits in my mixture. I had to disassemble the liquid side disconnect and remove the spring and plunger to let it flow when I racked it to my serving keg.
Not sure what your kettle setup it's like but you could consider a bazooka filter. https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Bazooka-Screen-Fitting/dp/B003ISY2DC. They have them at most Homebrew shops.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ISY2DC?pc_redir=1409004119&robot_redir=1
This is the one: https://www.amazon.com/LD-Carlson-4718-Straining-Handles/dp/B06WRTCSCL
If you're talking about in the boil, you're looking for a hop spider.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N5CS1AG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1
I also dry hop in the keg using this 29x7cm Stainless Steel Homebrew Beer Dry Hopper Filter With 300 Micron Mesh For Cornelius Kegs Corny Keg - Silver (Hopper Filter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUCE0ZR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cREDCbN29CR5A
Try on of these:
https://smile.amazon.com/Gooday-Stainless-Strainer-Homebrew-Multipurpose/dp/B01N5CS1AG/
This link doesn't work for me for some reason (maybe it's from your mobile?) so here's another link
I have been using this one for over a year now and would never go back.
300 Micron Mesh Hopper Spider Strainer Stainless Steel Hop Spider Beer Hops Filter Tea Kettle Brew Filter (6.1 x 13.98 Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5CS1AG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dRaGDbHAC8KGF
My tool of choice is one of these because it doesn't require any extra pots, you can just rinse it out after and hang it up. Actually less effort than a teabag, and a good enough compromise if you bend it a bit so it sits lower in the cup. I am that lazy, that if I used a teapot, I'd just drink diet coke.
I'm building a new brewing system, and today I built a 10 gallon cooler mashtun using all SS fittings. Having learned from past experiences, I came up with this build, which is just about the simplest way to make a mashtun.
What you'll need:
10 gallon Igloo cooler $41
Bayou Classic 1/2" SS Bulkhead $30
1/2" MTP Bazooka Screen $9
1/2" Male hose barb $8 (you can probably find one of these cheaper at your LHBS, I had one lying around)
Tools: Teflon tape, and a crescent wrench.
Total Cost: $88
So I finally put my mash tun together last weekend. I hit a few small snags that I should have seen ahead of time based on reviews of the spigot I bought!
Items
Total Cost: $76
Time to assemble: 15 minutes +- 5 minutes for testing the seal
Main suggestion - get either a false bottom or one of the short bazooka screens. The long bazooka screen is a pain to work with -- it barely fits in the cooler. I also heard there are spigots you can buy that come with a female connector so you wouldn't have to buy the coupling.
Take a close look at the instructions for the spigot - it spells out how to put it together correctly but the diagram was super confusing to me for some reason.
My primary frustration was that none of my local hardware stores had the coupling so I had to get and wait for it from Amazon. Lame!