Honestly, it fucking sucks trying to solder to that connector. I got it right eventually, but the connection to those tiny pins is so weak that it causes a ton of problems. Get something like this

Full parts list with links to each product:

Camera:

$36 - Raspberry Pi 3

$30 - Raspberry Pi Cam v2

$9 - 8GB SD card (class 4 or higher)

$3 - M3 hex nuts

$8 - M3 screws 16 mm

Iphone Lens x0.67

$20 - Male/Female Header Pins

$12 - Resistors 10k x 2 + 220 O x 2

$7 - Jumper Wires

$7 - LED Buttons x 2

$35 - Adafruit 2.8" PiTFT x 1

$8 - Pogo Pins

$7 - Clear Red 3mm LEDs x 3

$20 - PowerBank

$6 - Resistors - 2x 10k (included in price before) & 2x 100k

$30 - TowerPro MG92B Servo x 1

$8 - Neodynium Magnets 6X2 mm (8 pieces)

$10 - Micro USB Breakout x 2

$7 - Micro USB Cables x 2

Gif Cartridge:

$26 - Raspberry Pi Zero W x 1

$9 - 8GB SD card (class 4 or higher) x 1

Resistors 10k x 1 + 100k x 1 (included in price from camera parts multi pack)

$3 - Momentary Switch x 1

$35 - Adafruit 2.8" PiTFT x 1

$13 - 3.7 v LiPo 400mAH Battery x 1

$20 - Power Boost 1000C x 1

Tools you may need:

Soldering Iron, Desoldering Gun/Solder Sucker, Screwdriver set, Crimping tool, Pliers, Exacto Knives, Sand Paper(400-1200 grit), Tweezers, Acrylic Spray Paints (Black and White) Krylon or Montana Gold
Github Repo for the code: https://github.com/shekit/instagif

Github Repo for the eagle files, STL files: https://github.com/shekit/instagif-hardware

Total Cost: $369

+ iPhone Lens which varies greatly

I have the same board. It's pretty decent! If you're itching to upgrade some things, I recommend these purchases:

• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OIGDYC (Originative carbon keycaps - SO much better than the super thin/cheap ones this board ships with)
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HPQQLXM (O-rings to dampen some of the sound and impact discomfort from bottoming out the keys)
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPDAU6Q (Wrist pad. Doesn't seem like it should be that important, but it changes the angle of my hands and avoids a lot of wrist discomfort/damage. $15 is a lot cheaper than wrist surgery!)
  
  I also hacked in a USB port to make transporting the keyboard a bit easier (I travel quite a bit for work). Pics here: http://imgur.com/a/hXi6p The only part you have to buy is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLDPZVU and you'll likely need the ability to 3d print some standoffs (or find some other kind of non-conductive spacers to hold up the breakout board).

Depending on your case, getting the Teensy lined up just right to enable you to plug directly into it can be either impossible or merely difficult. So a good option is to buy a breakout board like this one for a Mini USB jack and then wire it up to something like one of these Mini USB male connectors. You then plug your male connector into the Teensy 2 and then you can place the female jack wherever you want on your board - using super glue or epoxy or whatever else you can find that makes it stick in place.

The connector I used on this board is this one right here because the case has a cutout that is only large enough for a Micro jack, not a Mini.

But yeah, I highly recommend getting some of these. They give you a lot more options on placing your controller.

I soldered one of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLDPZVU) to the end of a USB cable that I cut down to go between the Teensy and the edge of my acrylic case.

As a bonus, I was able to drop from Mini to Micro USB.

I finally got my board repaired with the help of my SO's dad. We tried to reattched the USB port but it was pretty fragile, so we ended up soldering a USB cable onto the PCB itself.

First we used a multi-meter to determine where each wire within a USB cord connects to the USB port. Then we did the same with where the USB port connects with the PCB. Here's a picture of the the end result.

The USB cord we attached is a bit short, so I'm planning on replacing it down the road with this or maybe a 6 ft cable with a para-cord wrap, but for now I'm just happy my favorite board is working.

Picture

More info @ https://imgur.com/gallery/CG9w4

Everything you need

Sourcing parts is one of the most challenging aspects of these builds. It's a chicken and egg situation in which the parts are defining the design and dimensions and at the same time the design is attempting to define the parts you should look for.

Just as one example, I sifted through tons of portable powerbanks online. The reason I selected the one I used was because:

1. It has a power button so I could switch it off
   
2. The power button was located on a side that would make it accessible in the design I was thinking of
   
3. It wasn't too large, thick or expensive
   
4. It had two USB ports which was needed to provided separate power to the pis and the servo
   
5. It could output 2A on one of the USB ports which was necessary to power the pis
   
   Similar back and forth's happened for every part that was purchased. I've listed all the parts and split them into those required for the camera and those needed for the cartridge
   
   
6. Camera:
   
   Raspberry Pi 3 x 1
   
   Raspberry Pi Cam v2 x 1
   8GB SD card (class 4 or higher) x 1
   
   M3 hex nuts - McMaster Carr 90695A033
   
   M3 screws 16 mm - Mcmaster Carr 95258A126
   
   Iphone Lens x0 . 67
   
   Male/Female Header Pins
   
   Resistors 10k x 2 + 220 O x 2
   
   Jumper Wires
   
   LED Buttons x 2 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094GIKDK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   Adafruit 2 . 8" PiTFT x 1 https://www.adafruit.com/product/2298
   Pogo Pins https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008LTKMG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   Clear Red 3mm LEDs x 3 https://www.amazon.com/Transparent-Lighting-Electronics-Components-Emitting/dp/B01AUI4VX8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503997638&sr=8-2&keywords=3mm+clear+led+red
   
   PowerBank - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H85P0EK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   Resistors - 2 x 10k & 2 x 100k
   
   TowerPro MG92B Servo x 1 http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/182310479953?chn=ps&dispItem=1
   
   Neodynium Magnets 6X2 mm (8 pieces) https://www.apexmagnets.com/6mm-x-2mm-disc-neodymium-rare-earth-magnet
   
   If you aren't making your own USB cables:
   Micro USB Breakout x 2 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLDPZVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   Micro USB Cables x 2 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S8GU03A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
7. Gif Cartridge:
   
   Raspberry Pi Zero W x 1
   8GB SD card (class 4 or higher) x 1
   
   Resistors 10k x 1 + 100k x 1
   
   Momentary Switch x 1 https://www.adafruit.com/product/367
   
   Adafruit 2 . 8" PiTFT x 1 https://www.adafruit.com/product/2298
   3 . 7 v LiPo 400mAH Battery x 1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016ZU9C2K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1Adafruit
   
   Power Boost 1000C x 1 https://www.adafruit.com/product/2465
   
   Tools you may need:
   
   Soldering Iron
   Desoldering Gun/Solder Sucker
   Screwdriver set
   Crimping tool
   Pliers
   Exacto Knives
   Sand Paper(400-1200 grit)
   Tweezers
   Acrylic Spray Paints (Black and White) Krylon or Montana Gold
   Github Repo for the code: https://github.com/shekit/instagif
   
   Github Repo for the eagle files, STL files: https://github.com/shekit/instagif-hardware
   

Unfortunatley no, its just a cheap soldering iron, heatgun is next on the list after a rotary tool!

So this would do the job? Solder headers to board, then wires to header? Would I lose use of LED indicator or could it connect to 5V as well? Or one of the other headers? It's separately ground on the current board, would that be the same if it I retained use of the LED? Thanks!!

​

or if you are impatient like me or think you need something smaller then there is this from amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLDQ2SK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A20H7HZMYKP2JK

or you can even use one these to convert it to the more common Micro USB (maybe more fragile though?)

https://www.amazon.com/Adafruit-USB-Micro-B-Breakout-Board/dp/B00KLDPZVU/ref=pd_sim_147_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=61bXItl3XOL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=9F444YBZAHPPBEP2ZYZ5

Yep, it's another 'on the way to work' pic. Eight year old Filco TKL's stock cable was on it's last legs. Decided to do the removable cable mod using a micro USB breakout board. Figured it would be a good time to paint so I used a couple coats of primer followed with six coats of glossy clear. Hope you guys like it!

Another pic showing the cable mod: http://i.imgur.com/7TEeWob.jpg?1

I wonder if theres enough room in the case to just remove the whole connector and put one of these in its place after soldering the conections.

https://www.amazon.com/Adafruit-USB-Micro-B-Breakout-Board/dp/B00KLDPZVU