Reddit mentions of AmazonBasics USB 3.1 Type-C to 4 Port USB Adapter Hub - Black

I ran into this issue as well. I am running x4 120mm (Push/Pull) on my H100i, and 2x 140mm top exhaust, plus the GPU Hybrid fan. I ended up putting the GPU fan back on the GPU header, but the other 6 fans are all controlled with one of these SATA powered PWM Fan Hubs from a single header. And this board also has less USB ports than my Z97 Impact board did, so I ended up buying a USB C to 4x USB hub to run my headset/wheel/etc off of. Bonus Build Pics

> When she reaches the lockscreen she can't type her password because the keyboard thinks it's being repeatedly touched in a few spots making her touches practically inexistent. Any insight or ways around this that any of you can think of?

Something to try:

With an USB-C hub (link below) or USB-C OTG cable you can attach a mouse and/or keyboard even before being logged in (bluetooth keyboard mice usually don't work for this purpose)

• https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-3-1-Type-C-Port/dp/B01M4J1DDP/

USB-C or USB 3? I can't think of any audio interfaces that use USB-C (correct me if I"m wrong here), and most MIDI to USB adapters I've seen also don't use USB-C.

Actually looking at the specs for the macbook pro and holy god there's literally only 2 ports and they're both USB-C that's so awful. Like I said, most MIDI-to-USB adapters and audio interfaces use USB type A plugs, so you'll need an adapter or a hub anyway to be able to use them (might as well get both in one, imo).

If you get a USB C to USB hub, it would be USB 3 to USB 3, so they should all have the same speed (I think there are sometimes issues of having enough power to send to everything but don't quote me on that and as long as you don't have like 10 things plugged in you're fine).

Another option would be to get an interface with built-in MIDI support but tbh you'll probably need the hub anyways if you plan to do more than 2 things at a time ever.

(If you're not sure where to look, Amazon Basics has a Type C to Type A hub that's USB 3.1, or Anker makes a cheaper one that's got great reviews)

I used this with my laptop

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4J1DDP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

you cannot extend it at all so the sensors will be plugged in close to your machine. I ran this off my USBc thunderbolt port with the 3 sensors and put my headset directly to the laptop. Worked fine for me. It does not like any extensions or anything else in the mix but it does work.

A HOTAS is an awesome addition to Elite Dangerous in VR.

As for a USB hub here is a copy paste of an answer I provided someone a few days ago about hubs. I posted earlier about PCI cards but just realised you have a laptop sp they are not really an option.

----------------------------

Just remember a hub that might work for one person might not work for another. Because you are essentially daisy chaining it to the USB controllers on your motherboard. If your motherboard doesn't have a good enough USB subsystem you are still going to have problems.

The ideal solution would be to get a hub for everything Non Rift related and try to put everything Rift related onto the motherboard where possible. If you have to put something Rift related onto a Hub I would choose a 3rd sensor first (when using supplied extension cable) as its bandwidth requirements are quite low.

Firstly you would likely want a powered USB hub in case the Rift sensors or headset needed to pull more power than the motherboard port you plug it into is able to provide.

USB 3.0 Hubs

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

or

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Adapter-Devices/dp/B00PBZX0OM

I chose those two brands Anker and Amazon Basics because they are the hubs I commonly see people say have worked for the Rift.

USB-C Hubs

Alternatively you could try getting a USB-C hub which would give you the best chance of avoiding having a bottleneck with data throughput. I couldn't find any (of those brands) that had powered options so you run the risk of not having enough power.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Macbook-Devices/dp/B00XU6IMWY

or

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-3-1-Type-C-Port/dp/B01M4J1DDP

Disclaimer: There really isn't much documented evidence of what works because like I said earlier it all depends on the motherboard USB port you end up plugging these into. If you have success let reddit know though so others in your situation can do the same. I thought about buying a few for just testing when questions like this were asked but I couldn't be bothered as my PCI card solution works just fine (something you can't do)

USB C to A adapter or a USB 3 hub with a C connector should be all you need. I use a 3.1 A type connector to run a hub with 2 of my sensors on it.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-3-1-Type-C-Port/dp/B01M4J1DDP/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502294465&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+3.1+hub

If you're using a controller with a standard USB plug (USB-A),which most USB controllers are, you'll need an adapter that's USB-A to USB-C adapter. The Switch Pro Controller for example uses a USB-C cable to connect as a wired controller, so you can use a USB-C to USB-C cable to connect it to the Switch in tabletop mode.

Edit: I'd actually be interested to see if something like this would work for using multiple USB wire controllers in table top mode.

Yeah, you have a Thunderbolt port (and a USB C port) . Why not use em.

This is what I use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4J1DDP/

Wasn't sure if I could link it so I just copied to the title. Here is a non-referral link

Or would something like this work as well? - https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-3-1-Type-C-Port/dp/B01M4J1DDP since the mac has a thunderbolt 3 port

I am trying to invest the least on these things as I am on a tight budget and I can only afford so much. I tried looking around and I am unable to find a proper answer, hence this is my only forum.

I’m using USB-C, which uses USB 3.1 and provides more than adequate power to run the peripherals. You can see the back shot image here: https://ibb.co/pRMJ69M

I’m using this extension (so I don’t always have to go behind the tower of my machine to plug in) paired with this USB-C hub. Works like a champ.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074K318JK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JDJzCb9JWTFBM

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M4J1DDP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

You’ll also want to consider running this batch file. Your devices may be running in Windows 10 with “Enhanced Power Management”. This disables that for Logitech / Saitek Peripherals.

http://uraster.com/en-us/products/usbenhancedpowermanagerdisabler.aspx

I think you'd be best off getting a good USB mouse and keyboard, and connecting them to your computer with a USB to USB-C hub. Here's the first one I found on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-3-1-Type-C-Port/dp/B01M4J1DDP

Ok, I'll do you one better. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-3-1-Type-C-Port/dp/B01M4J1DDP/ref=sxin_3_pb?keywords=USB-c+hub&pd_rd_i=B01M4J1DDP&pd_rd_r=05171cff-858b-45e1-bd2d-7be1928c326f&pd_rd_w=xglHg&pd_rd_wg=KFhU0&pf_rd_p=9ef0c97a-254b-445c-822b-c948e2d94ddd&pf_rd_r=84T2BVJNK0PFASVSZD88&qid=1566600875&s=gateway
There's a hub without a built-in ethernet interface and there's a review confirming that it worked on the Switch. Just buy a separate Ethernet adapter too. The problem with the Anker is probably that the Switch OS just doesn't support that particular Ethernet interface.