I have always wanted to have a "smart" radio. My parents have always owned various Pioneer, Kenwood, and Sony radio decks, but they always had their cons to them (clunky OS, different type of touch screens that suck, lack of features, very expensive $800-$2000), useless features, etc.). I wanted something that runs Android 6.0+. I thought about using iPads, but I didn't want to waste a bunch of money for something that is going to be used in my car only. I wanted a budget friendly "smart" radio. That is when I found the perfect tablet, the Nexus 7 2013. Cheap, powerful, Android 6, compact, somewhat thin and small, and best part, it fits in a double-din radio deck.

After finding various projects that people have used, I decided to order a bunch of stuff from Amazon (everything was bought with Prime) and see if I could get this to work. It took about 3 weeks to work out all the bugs, but it runs perfect now. I never found anyone that did this mod in a Nissan Pathfinder, so that was difficult going on my own, reading various wiring diagrams and getting power, sound and steering wheel controls to work. After lots of testing each wire, and lots of trial and errors, everything is working how I want it too.

Questions that people have asked me that I can remember on the top of my head:

Q: How do you turn the tablet on and off if the power button is blocked?

A: Easy, with Timur's Kernel, and the USB car charger hooked up to the accessory power, when I turn my key on/start my car, the tablet detects power from the USB, which wakes the screen/powers on. (ELI5: there are 2 power sources in your radio, a constant 12 volt power, and an accessory key power. So when you turn the key to ACC or ON, it gives power to the tablet, but when you turn the key off, it takes away power from the USB port.)

Q: How does it hold up in the wonderful California heat?

A: Shockingly very well. It hasn't given me any issues in ~95F (+35C) degree weather. There was a day where it was 115F (46C) degrees outside, and that is when the tablet finally said NOPE and started locking up and freezing due to the ridiculous heat. After running my AC for a few minutes, it cooled the tablet down to reasonable temperature and ran normally again. When my car is parked, I have a windshield sun shade that helps a ton with keeping the sun off my black/gray dash, and/or microfiber towels over the screen to keep the sun off. If it's super hot, I just take the tablet/radio/air conditioner part out of my car and bring it inside (not that hard to remove).

Q: How do you control the volume?

A: With the JoyCon EXC, it translates either CAN, IBUS, resistive, or digital steering wheel control signals, to USB keyboard signals that the tablet can see. I have the Joycon setup to have Volume UP/DOWN, Screen ON/OFF, PAUSE/PLAY, and PREVIOUS/NEXT. Click here for more information.

Q: How do you listen to the radio/music?

A: Spotify Premium. While I can spend ~$10 on a radio antenna to USB to listen to over-the-air radio stations, I never listen to the radio. When I had my old stock radio, I never listened to the radio part. I always used my 3.5mm jack to plug in my phone for Spotify. Great perk about being a broke college student is getting 50% off Spotify Premium.

Q: Can you/do you watch TV or movies on it while you drive?

A: I can, but I don't. Pay attention to the freakin' road.

Q: How do you get internet on it since it's a WiFi version?

A: I use my Bluetooth hotspot on my phone to get internet for Waze, Google Maps, etc. I can also use the WiFi hotspot, but that uses more power. I can drive from California to Idaho running Waze the whole way and it uses about ~300MB of data.

Q: Can you make phone calls with it?

A: This has been something I have been trying, but have not had success with yet. I use an app called [TabletTalk] (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.apdroid.tabtalk&hl=en), but it doesn't push the microphone/sound through the tablet. I gave up on this since I have a Samsung Gear 2 Neo smartwatch that has a microphone/speaker on it. Some day I will explore with this more.

Q: How do you power your speakers if you removed the radio?

A: I lucked out big time with this issue because my Nissan Pathfinder has the Bose System built in. That means that there's an amplifier already installed that powers the speakers. So the tablet sends the sound to the Behringer UCA202 DAC, that then converts to a 3.5mm headphone jack that then splits into the Left Front/Rear, Right Front/Rear, and dual subwoofer channels that go to the car wiring harness that then goes to the amp. This saves me hundreds of dollars. For vehicles without a stock amplifier that rely on the radio for power, that is when you will need to buy an amplifier to power the speakers. My 12 inch subwoofer also plugs into the DAC and works perfectly.

Q: I see the reverse camera, how did you get that to work with the tablet? How does the tablet know when you are in reverse?

A: There were 2 ways to get this to work, one way is by video detection, or the other way is by the JoyCon EXC. I chose to do the video detection way because it was simpler and waiting about one second for the app to open was fine with me. I use an app called EasyCap viewer.

Q: Why is there paper over the JoyCon, EasyCap, USB charger etc.?

A: The plastic pieces over the EasyCap and USB charger were bulky/broken. The JoyCon didn't come with a cover. Paper was the easiest/closest thing I had at the moment. If only I had a 3D printer. Someday..

Q: Why is the mic in the vent and not somewhere else? Doesn't the wind from the HVAC cause problems?

A: It was a last-second add-on and just put it in there without having to rewire the harness. I also didn't know where to move it that made it look "stock". I've gotten some great opinions on where to move it! Thanks for those!

I'll add more common questions here when I think of them.

Breakdown of Parts:

Price | Part
---|---
$100 | Nexus 7 2013 32GB WiFi (flo) (bought from /r/hardwareswap)
$5 | Nissan Radio Wiring Harness
$6 | AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub
$20 | Esky EC135-05 Rearview Camera
$95 | JoyCon EXC
$7 | Tendak OTG USB cable
$30 | Behringer UCA202
$7 | VideoSecu Amplified CCTV Microphone
$25 | Timur's Kernel v4.0 for Nexus 7 2013
$10 | Maxboost Car Charger
Free/Other/Already owned | EasyCap USB Video Capture Card, RCA cables, 3.5mm audio cables, USB cables, 12-16 AWG wire, grinder, zipties, paper, hotglue, other random stuff.
TOTAL COST | ~$305

TL;DR: Modified my Android tablet to work as a replacement for my radio. Worth it? YES. Best Radio Ever.

Have Questions? Ask away. Since I had to learn most this crap on my own, I can share my experience with others and give pointers in the right direction.

EDIT #1: Formatting.

EDIT #2: RIP my inbox. I would never have guessed this would get this popular. I'm just speechless. Wow. Thanks everyone! Trying my best to reply to everyone! Also added another question to this.

That's good the motherboard ports still work. There's a couple things you can get for more. There's just a simple external usb hub, an internal 3.5" sata hub, or an internal pcie hub ( if you're case/motherboard will support either of those).

That cpu is definitely no slouch, I don't think it needs an upgrade.

The 750 ti is a little under-powered nowadays, but it should still run those games somewhat ok. If you wanted to upgrade it I'd say an rx 470 would be a great idea. If you check r/buildapcsales you can find them for about $140 sometimes. Need to make sure your power supply and case will fit it though. Do you know what the power supply is? The case is probably fine as long as it's not one of those tiny ones.

A second monitor (or just nicer, what's the one you have?) could certainly be nice for just everyday use / multitasking. It wouldn't really make gaming a ton better unless you got a high end one like 144hz or even 1440p (which you would also need a better video card for). An i5 3470 + rx 470 should play pretty much any current game on med-high settings at 1080p 60fps.

If you don't already have an SSD I'd say that should definetly be part of the upgrade. It's one of the best things you can do to make a computer feel faster/snappier. It won't improve gaming fps. But putting the OS and most used programs/games will make the whole system feel super quick.

$800-1000 could definitely build a pretty beast rig. But imo it's not really worth it for your needs. Some good upgrades would be best I think.

Evecase 5.6 x 5.6 x 3.5 inch Camera Bag.
Chose this after trying too long to find a 3DS bag that didn't have horrible straps. $16 with Prime

Anker USB 3.0 4* USB tap.
Obviously, you need to have more than 1 USB port to do much, like using a mouse with a usb drive.
$9 with Prime.

Cable Matters Mini HDMI male to HDMI Female cable 2 pack.
Minor shaving required. Not tested extensively.
$10 with Prime.

Lexar USB 3.0 Micro SD Card Reader
If you want to use a ferry card or temporarily pop your card of choice into a computer, one of these is incredibly helpful. Plus it's tiny. You can probably get one cheaper if you don't want the 32GB card included.
$33 with Prime.

Standard XBOne Controller.
Works without any need to mess with dongles on Windows 10. It'll even work with headphones/sets.
$35-$50ish, depending on color and luck.

Venom Xbox One Rechargeable Battery Twin Pack.
I don't recommend these in particular, but a rechargeable pack is a must if you don't want to guzzle batteries.
$17 with Prime.

Logitech Wireless Mouse M185.
Pretty reliable, but only has the standard 2 mouse buttons plus tilting and clicking mousewheel. Receiver stores inside nicely.
$13 with Prime.

Kid Icarus Folding 3DS Stand That I Had In A Box.
Needs a little rubber bumper to help secure the Win properly.
$10 with Prime.

Perrix Asymetrical Folding Keyboard.
This one might be tough to find, but it works amazingly. The weird fold system pushes the main hinge off to the side, so it is less likely to fold the moment you put it on your lap. It also completely hides the hinge when the keyboard is unfolded. A bit cramped, but the keys are properly clicky laptop keys.
For image and model reference

Anker PowerCore 26800 Portable Charger*
While looking for my power pack, I found this one. Seems to be a flat upgrade. 26800mAh with 3 4.8A output USB ports. Also has 2 micro usb inputs for double the charge speed?
$59.99 with Prime.

Other possible pack-ins.

Bluetooth Numpads.
If you're primarily going to be gaming, you might want to drop the full keyboard in favor of a bit of space plus one of these. Works nicely with a mouse if you rebind with HIDMacros. Also more tiny airport/college desk friendly. Example unit is $30

Similarly, you might want to try a half controller + mouse option using a device like the Nintendo Joy-Con's left unit. Drivers are still being worked on though, so only get this if you're up for beta troubles.
$50ish, but you can get lucky on eBay.

SanDisk Ultra Fit 128GB USB 3.0 flash drive.
The one in all the Win lists I've seen, but I figured I'd list it here for convenience.
$45 with Prime.

Batteries
All this stuff takes a total of 3 AAA (2 for the keyboard, 1 for the numpad) and 1 AA battery that will need replacing eventually. I hesitate to recommend rechargeable ones, as I have yet to find a micro charger for them.

Inateck USB 3.0 Ethernet + 3 USB 3.0 port adapter.
You might want to replace the 4 port one with one like this if you plan to do network maintenance, secure data transfer, or just plain download things quickly.

$20 with Prime.

PS4 Controller.
Some people prefer this to the XBOne one. It's lighter in the hand (and bag), comes with a built in rechargeable battery with absurd life, and has a touchpad with 4 physical buttons underneath. Can do some pretty crazy things with the touchpad via Steam's controller customization, but has weaker compatibility with non-Steam applications. Also works with PS4 Remote Play.
Worth noting that, unlike the ps3 controller, this can charge directly from any micro usb power supply. Headset support seems to require the official receiver dongle, sold separately.
Controller Alone: $40-60 Depending on color. Silver's cheapest.
Adapter Alone: $66
Controller + Adapter Bundle: $66

Budget 1 Handed Controller**
Hey, if you want to try 1/2 Controller + Mouse, why start off pricey?
$10

Phew, that's about all I have on hand.

I would definitely avoid that hub. With 7 external ports the internal design will be two USB host controllers daisy chained together so 4 of those ports will at a minimum have to go through 3 host controllers to send data back to the PC. Very risky and prone to issues which will be explained below.

Apologies for the wall of text but it is all quite important to explain why USB hubs are not the best idea for a number of reasons. Only go the hub route if you have no other choice like you have a laptop and a PCI card if not an option. If you have a desktop and free PCI slots then grab one of the PCI cards listed at the end of this post.

USB 3.0 Hubs

The main concern with hubs is that there is an additional USB controller in the chain and if one of those controllers is not compatible then you might have tracking issues. The issue with compatibility is VR needs low latency and high bandwidth which is required for good tracking.

So you have something like this using a hub.

PC -> PCI Bus -> USB Controller -> Hub -> USB Controller -> Sensor.

I put together this image on the weekend to explain it to someone else - https://imgur.com/jI6Istl

If anything in that chain is sub standard you have issues. If you have good USB Controllers in that chain you wont see issues. Just remember a quality hub is only as good as the USB port on your PC you plug it into.

It is also recommended to get a powered USB hub if you have to go the hub route. People sometimes encounter not just a bandwidth/latency bottleneck but a power bottleneck. Importantly some PC USB ports can't push out enough power to power all the devices plugged into the hub. Get a powered hub to avoid this possibility.

Below are two brands Anker and Amazon Basics which are the hubs I commonly see people say have worked for the Rift. The 7 port one will have daisy chained USB controllers internally but people have recommended it so they must be good quality.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

or

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Adapter-Devices/dp/B00PBZX0OM


PCI Cards

Here are the cards that Oculus have recommended (I have personally tested the top two cards) .The blog posts at the end of this post might clear up why hubs are hit and miss for some people due to data/latency bottlenecks that might occur.

StarTek 2 port card (1 ASMedia controller) – Cheaper StarTek option that could be used for 2 sensors or a sensor and headset.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013HT6K3Q

Supported Inatek 4 port card (1 Fresco controller) – Don't get the 5 or 7 port card as the design is not really suited for Rift sensors as it has daisy chained controllers in the design.

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

Use the Inatek for your two front facing cameras and nothing else. Plug your third or fourth USB 2.0 camera and Rift HMD into your motherboard.

Supported StarTek 4 port card (2 Controllers) – Optional middle tier PCI card solution which can run all four sensors or 3 sensors and HMD. Equivalent to two Inatek cards.

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00HJZE9VK

Supported StarTek 4 port card (4 Controllers) – Optional top of the range PCI card solution which can run all four sensors or 3 sensors and HMD. Equivalent to four Inatek cards.

https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S

Both 4 port StarTek cards are pricey and a bit more than is actually required. You could achieve the same thing with 2x four port Inatek cards.

More reading for why USB controllers are important and how you should connect sensors

Oculus put together some blog posts last year explaining best practices. Parts 2 and 3 of Oculus tracking posts explain the USB subsystems and how to get the best config.

• Part 1: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-tips-for-setting-up-a-killer-vr-room/
  
• Part 2: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-balancing-bandwidth-on-usb/
  
• Part 3: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-identifying-host-controllers/
  
• Part 4: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-extra-equipment/
  
  Finally here is my setup and the placement of USB devices amongst all the USB controllers. https://imgur.com/a/fqgRP5p

1080p matte display, 8gb ram, i5 8520u (4 core, 8 thread, 1.8ghz, 3.4 turbo ghz boost)

Seems a little underpowered but its actually very snappy (I even played GTA on it) and the battery life is absolutely amazing.

This Guide has the most community activity, its really for the 7th gen xps my 8th gen setup is a tad different but same great results.

Laptop runs silent, cool, and stable. Excellent portable workhorse.

I paired it with a magnetic USB c charging cable for that magsafe quick detach

And a USB C PD battery bank for on the go charging (needed infrequently with 7-10 hour use time

Only usb C -> displayport can output 60fps @4k. HDMI can do 30 fps. All while also giving ethernet, USB, and power. Really nice to have one cable to pop in and bam its a desktop.

The laptop supports 1 hdmi and 1 displayport output via USB c. I really like the display, excellent speakers, and solid build quality.

There is a 4k touchscreen model but its a heavy heat making energy hog and not really necessary on a 13" display.

The 9370 just came out (i would get the 9360) so the prices on the 9360 should continue to drop a bit more.

I'm slightly older if that really matters. Here's my advice.

One thing you can do right now without buying anything is to remove the stickers off of your laptop. Seriously, it makes a difference.

For all my recommendations I'm going to list price first as I imagine budget being a concern.

$5 - Do you only use the external drive when at your desk? If so, mounting it to the corner of the desk, the wall, (or if you ever pick up an external monitor, the back of that) might look cleaner.
I use this stuff to stick things - https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-051141397252-Extremely-Mounting-414P-ST/dp/B018GKCI82/ You can find it at stores like Target.

With all the cables coming out of your laptop, I think a USB hub would really help your setup as all of the cables would go directly into one place. If your laptop has a USB-C port and supports charging over it, you can get a USB-C hub so you can connect peripherals and charging over one cable.

$15 - If you don't have USB-C, something like this looks good - https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU/

It has four USB 3.0 ports and is very clean and small. However, the cable is a bit short.

Around $79 - If you do have USB-C, I have this hub and it's pretty good, however the cable is short and can feel a bit loose at times.

$25 - A basic colored mousepad might look cleaner if you want to go for that look. I have this mousepad and recommend it, but it's all personal preference.

$35 - I think you should pick up a headphone stand so the grease and oils don't get on your laptop screen, I recommend this one - https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Headphone-Stand-Holder/dp/B019PI9QFC/

It gives you three extra USB 3.0 ports, a headphone jack and comes in four different colors, and has a solid aluminum build. If you don't need those extras, this stand is still aluminum and comes in at $12 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GZFX6ND/

Probably around $100-$150 - The biggest upgrade you can make here I think is an external monitor and keyboard. It would improve your setup's ergonomics significantly. This desk looks pretty small, so I would recommend something no bigger than 24 inches in screen size. The resolution of the screen and such would depend on what you want and your laptop's power. However, I highly recommend at least 1920x1080 resolution.

$25 - If you ever do decide to upgrade to an external monitor, you probably wouldn't be able to use two screens on your desk, and the closed laptop would take up way too much space. I would recommend this laptop stand - https://www.amazon.com/Vertical-Adjustable-OMOTON-Aluminum-Chromebook/dp/B0769G51R7/

I have it myself and it's very well built, adjustable, and makes things a lot cleaner if you use an external monitor. It has branding on one side but if you flip it you can just use the side with no branding so it looks super clean. You can make it very stable on the desk with some simple double-sided tape.

That's all I have for now. Enjoy your setup!

1. Pricing at the moment is consistent to what was released in press kits back in January, thought they could change on release, but the 512 Gb Vega model is slated to be at $1,699. You can see the prices here.
   
   
2. While I'm not too concerned about the 8 gb of RAM since you're not using too heavy of an application, 256 Gb to 512 Gb of storage will make a world of a difference. Fortnite and Lol together can take up to 40Gb of space. Also, both mx150 models come with a pen already. According to Lisa from MobileTechReviews here, the HP pen does come with tilt support. But of course that can change of course if HP decides to cheap out.
   
   
3. You have a variety of options here:
   

• The free option is to use the pass throughs, unless you're a hyper competitive CSGO player, I doubt you'll notice the difference.
  
• You can get a USB Hub, these cost like $10 on Amazon here.
  
• Or if you're Mr. Moneybags, you can get an $26 Dell TB15 Thunderbolt dock here. But you'll need to also get a 130W or more Dell power adapter if you don't have one laying around. (my company has a few that I have burrowed thankfully). This is awesome, you can connect monitors, headphones, USBs, ethernet ports on this dock. Very very useful.
  
  And finally, you seem pretty well suited for the MX150, it's still a decent discrete GPU that will handle both Fortnite and LoL with ease (at 1080p resolution).

I guess Imgur isn't so friendly on links so I'll put them here as well:

1. GoRuck Echo, Black :: http://www.goruck.com/echo-black-rucksack/p/GEAR-000064
   
2. Morale Patch, "Regular Guy" :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014N0NK7M
   
3. MOLLE Grimloc caribiner, Black :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LEEAMXA
   
4. Jogalite Reflective Band, White :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KGATL4
   
   ***
   
   
5. Batman button :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00273934C22
   
6. GoRuck Sternum Strap, Black :: http://www.goruck.com/molle-sternum-strap-black-/p/GEAR-0001023
   
7. Sharpie, Fine, Black :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IFHD/
   
8. MOLLE Web Dominator, Black :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LEEAMXA
   
   ***
   
   
9. Dell Inspiron 13" 7000 :: http://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/productdetails/inspiron-13-7378-2-in-1-laptop/dncwsab5104h2
   
   ***
   
   
10. GoRuck Padded Field Pocket, Echo, Black :: http://www.goruck.com/padded-field-pocket-echo-black-/p/GEAR-000368
    
11. SanDisk Ultra Fit 3.0 flashdrive, 32G (x2) :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLER2CS
    
12. Sea to Summit Dry Sack, Small (4L), Green :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q3KKCS
    
13. Rowkin Bit wireless earbuds, Space Gray :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KBQ6GQ4
    
14. Kindle Paperwhite, Black :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OQVZDJM6. MOLLE Grimloc caribiner, Black :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LEEAMXA
    
15. Dell AC Adapter, 45W, 19.5V (came with laptop) :: http://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/productdetails/inspiron-13-7378-2-in-1-laptop/dncwsab5104h2
    
16. Building/server card keys, varied
    
17. Building/server room keys, varied
    
18. REV battery, 4,000mAh :: who knows
    
19. Anker PowerCore battery, 10,000mAh :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0194WDVHI
    
20. Tzumi PocketJuice Endurace battery, 6,000mAh :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TXBHT7Y
    
21. USB to Lightning cable, 4" :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/B010U3XJNG
    
22. USB to Micro-B cable, 4" :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YKX6WM
    
23. StarTech USB Ethernet adapter :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0095EFXMC
    
24. VanQuest FATPACK Gen2, 4x6, Black :: http://shop.skinnymedic.com/FATPack-4x6-Black-Gen-2-Bag-Only-fatpacksmallblk.htm
    
    ***
    
    
25. Uni-Ball Signo 207, Fine, Black :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HNZ5SW/
    
26. BIC Roundstic, Medium, Blue :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010DS4DK6
    
27. Sharpie, Fine, Black :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IFHD
    
28. Toothpaste, travel :: Grocery stores
    
29. Toothbrush, travel :: Grocery stores
    
30. Contact lense case :: Grocery stores
    
31. SKYN condom, Original :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TTXA7I
    
32. Renu soft lense solution :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016IZ4BO69
    
33. Planters NUTrition, Wholesome Mix :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C37SX70
    
34. Nail clippers, large :: Grocery stores
    
35. LARABAR, Cashew Cookie :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NMDY38
    
36. Visine for contacts :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00099E9D6
    
37. Advil, 200mg :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ZCT1M2
    
    ***
    
    
38. North American Rescue Compressed Gauze, 4.5" x 4.1 yard :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ED3H778
    
39. North American Rescue Pressure Bandage, 6" :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7OCCNC
    
40. North American Rescue Bear Claw gloves, Nitrile, Large :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L9W7T1A
    
41. Nasopharyngeal Airway (NPA) Tube, 28Fr :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003950R2E
    
42. Sharpie, Fine, Black :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IFHD
    
43. Benchmade 7 :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013QVC1Q
    
44. Mylar blanket :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007IYIYFE/
    
45. North American Rescue Compact HyFin Vent (x2) :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K533FB2
    
46. Alcohol prep pad :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MEE2MHK
    
47. North American Rescue CAT (tourniquet), 7th Generation :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LCJCBTA
    
    ***
    
    
48. Stealth Gear USA Ventcore, Appendix :: http://stealthgearusa.com/holsters.html
    
49. Kershaw Shuffle II :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TAD2P8S
    
50. Cardstack Slim Wallet :: https://www.etsy.com/listing/247503194
    
51. LAMY Al-Star, Graphite, Fine, Blue :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000R309UQ
    
52. Field Notes, Graph :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006CQT2KU
    
53. Timex Weekender, original Blue/Gray stripe replaced with standard 20mm leather NATO strap :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VR9HP2, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012UTRAFG
    
54. Springfield Armory XD Mod.2 Sub-Compact, 3", 9mm, FDE :: http://www.springfield-armory.com/products/xd-mod-2-3-sub-compact-9mm/
    
55. Verizon iPhone 7 Plus, 128G, Black :: https://www.verizonwireless.com/smartphones/apple-iphone-7-plus
    8+. Otterbox SYMMETRY, Black :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K6PBSK4
    
56. Xikar Allume Single, Black :: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYK11W2
    
57. Lightning to 3.5mm adapter :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXJFMGF
    
58. Chapstick Classic, Medicated :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004AIECQG
    
59. Transcend JetFlash, 128G :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JKATVM4
    
60. Car, House keys
    
61. SanDisk Cruzer, 32G :: Who knows

Sure np, there is a $60 tuner available for XBOX One. I picked up a 50-mile Clearstream Eclipse antenna, connected it directly to the tuner, then the tuner plugs into an open USB port on the back of your XONE. If you're like me I already had a port devoted to my Kinect, and another to a 3TB drive so this filled up all my ports (you can buy a hub for relatively cheap that takes care of this problem). Anyway...once you plug everything in the XBOX will recognize your new device and ask if you would like to scan for channels, it also asks for your zip code for the on-screen OTA channel guide that looks quite similar to most cable companies. Finally, it asks if you would like to devote 4 gigs of your HD space to the 30-minute pause function. Very easy to set-up, everything plays right through the XBOX OneGuide app.

Edit: Use this website to see how many free OTA channels you have in your area, as well as how far they are away from you...this will help determine the strength of the antenna you need to buy. https://www.fcc.gov/media/engineering/dtvmaps

The purpose you're trying to use it for definitely doesn't call for a TB3 dock; you'd be able to get by fine with just a USB-C dock. The difference can be a hundred bucks or more. The main reason I'd recommend a TB3 dock specifically is for a laptop that only has one TB3 port (the dock will then give you an additional TB3 port for chaining more devices together) but since your Carbon has 2 thunderbolt ports, you can use one on a USB-C dock and then have one left over for any TB3 devices you might also wish to connect later on as you acquire them.

For maximum benefit, I'd recommend a USB-C dock that has at least 3 USB-A ports and an HDMI connector. Two come to mind - the Satechi 4k which also lets you plug in an ethernet cable and is beautiful. A personal favorite of mine for laptops that can do USB power delivery is the Iogear. That one would let you have a single cable solution to connect all your devices and get power over a single cable (you just have to have a USB charger to plug into the dock, too). Both roughly the same price.

​

If you don't care about having everything running over a single cable to your laptop, you can save yourself some pesos and just get a regular hub instead of a dock. It could even be a USB-A hub since your laptop has one of those.

I may not be seeing this the right way, but I went about it like this;

Polaroid 7" tablet. This functions as your hub. Running VLC Direct lets you stream from anything on your WiFi network. By itself it's not all that great. Average internal DAC. low storage. Crap battery life. Bad display. But it's just a touchscreen that runs PowerAmp. $5. Supports virtually all audio formats. Well known and versatile. It's no JRiver, but it doesn't need to be.

https://www.amazon.com/Polaroid-P700BK-Quad-Core-Lollipop-Bluetooth/dp/B0181OME4Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522041116&sr=8-3&keywords=polaroid+tablet&dpID=51nKdLSJnAL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

We are up to $60 at this point with the paid version of PowerAmp.

Powered USB hub. We need connectivity. $19.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGJR4/ref=twister_B00FB50S0Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

A decent DAC. Best I could find for the money;

https://www.amazon.com/FX-Audio-Optical-Coaxial-Amplifier/dp/B01HERNVQQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522041945&sr=1-2&keywords=fx+audio+dac-x6

Up to $145, for what I would consider a better way of playing digital files than the DigiOne. I added an 8TB portable HDD for another $150, and for under $300 I have a digital media player that provides excellent sound, ease of use, and is extremely upgradable as far as storage, which is shouldn't need any time soon. Every part of the chain can be upgraded as well. Bigger faster tablet? More storage? Better DAC? All can be swapped out with ease. And it can access all the music on my gaming rig as well. And it's a total touchscreen solution.

Make sure your inverter has a larger power rating than the hair dryer. I know hair dryers are usually in the 1000w range. Keep in mind inverters are not 100% efficient. It depends on the model, but I would assume it's only 90% efficient, so a 1000w inverter can only put out 900w. (thinking about it, a 1000w inverter is probably called 1000w because that's what it puts out. It might consume 1100w, but that doesn't really matter to you)

You have a few options for connecting USB. If you are getting an inverter, your easiest option would be to plug it into your inverter with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-Power-Adapter/dp/B00DQFGJR4/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1473788166&sr=1-9&keywords=usb+hub

If you want to connect it to 12v (which yes, you would connect in parallel with the inverter), you can get something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Saicoo-Charger-Featuring-Intelligent-Charging/dp/B00LMACBHW/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1473788400&sr=8-7&keywords=usb+hub+12v

Hope that helps!


Also, I would confirm that one 140w panel would be enough for your demands.
You can check out a solar map

(USA): http://www.wholesalesolar.com/solar-information/sun-hours-us-map

(Australia): http://www.geni.org/globalenergy/library/renewable-energy-resources/oceania/Solar/australia_files/solar-australia.gif

to see just how many total solar hours your region can get in a day. Best case scenario, you get 6 hours of full sunlight a day. With a 140w panel, that's 840w total in a day. Is that enough?

Great post OP, thank you very much. I started progress on my magic mirror following these instructions and wanted to post my experience so far.

Already had:

• Rasberry Pi A+
  
• Old monitor, stripped from casing to reduce size.
  
• VGA to HDMI converter cable to allow using my monitor with pi.
  
• Micro Usb cable for power & ac adapter.
  
• USB Wifi stick ( Mine worked perfectly with raspbian jessie without any additional work) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704140&cm_re=wifi_usb-_-33-704-140-_-Product
  
  Things I needed to purchase:
  
  
• 16 gb Micro SD card (It was practically the same price as 8gb) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010Q57SEE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
  
• USB Hub. I accidentally purchased this one thinking it was powered. Luckily I was able to power the keyboard, mouse, and wifi without an issue. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003M0NURK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
  
  
• USB card reader (since my computer doesn't have one) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009D79VH4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
  
  
  Issues Encountered:
  
  
• WiFi wouldn't work: Turned out I plugged it in while pi was already running. Spent a lot of time trying to debug before realizing that I just needed to restart. My wifi dongle (linked above) was able to work immediately without any additional work.
  
  
• Calendar not loading: In calendar.php I left the "$_GET" portion when putting my google url in. Line should just be:
  
  $url = 'YOUR_URL'
  
  
• Screen won't rotate: I changed to all lowercase display_rotate=1 and cleaned up some white space and screen rotate worked properly. Not sure what the problem was exactly but working now.
  
  I will probably be removing the news and compliments because I am using a smaller screen and want to leave more open space.
  
  I also am looking for a solution to showing events from multiple calendars. I keep my google calendars separated by type, like bills, appointments, etc. These are kept on separate calendars so I can filter which is viewed. But I'd like to consolidate this data on the mirror, or rotate between calendars. May modify the source myself if nothing already exists.
  
  But to get everything running on the pi took about 2hrs including resolving my issues. Building the frame will probably take longer as my wood working skills are pretty sub par.
  

Although Robo Recall was a bit too arcadey for my tastes, it's still very fun and free, but Lone Echo... omfg, Lone Echo is amazing. Absolute must-play.

I also recommend Wilson's Heart, Obduction, and Robinson (which just got Touch support!) if you are into VR adventure games.

If you are into racing, and have all the right gear (seat + wheel + pedals), check out Dirt Rally and Project CARS 2, as well. They are incredible. I've noticed that people don't tend to have nausea problems with racing games when they are using a seat and wheel.

If you are ready to step things up, Elite: Dangerous is the one VR experience that keeps me coming back more than any other (Dirt Rally comes in second). You can easily spend a lot of money on it, though. Add a HOTAS setup, Voice Commander, and a VC voice pack, and you've added $300 to your purchase price... but once you do, it's no longer a game... you are genuinely living in space. I don't even really think of it as a game anymore. It's a second life. It's real.

Oh and as others have mentioned... don't leave your Rift near a window. Those damn fresnel lenses can damage your screen like a magnifying glass focusing on an ant... and Oculus will NOT repair it, not even for a fee.

Also, I strongly recommend mounting your cameras to a wall or ceiling. These are the mounts I use and recommend: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/

I've found just about any USB3 extender cable works, but apparently, some people's motherboards don't output enough power for longer cables. If you run into that problem, use a USB3 or USB-C (if your mobo has one) based, independently powered hub. I've found you can get away with 2 cameras running over a single powered hub connected to a USB3 port, or 4 cameras connected to a hub connected to a USB-C port.

Here's the USB3 hub I recommend to everyone with power issues: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/

Edit: Oh, and if you already have Alien: Isolation, there's now a mod that restores the game's original VR support for CV. Keep in mind, it still has plenty of rough edges and is gamepad only, but playing through that in VR is one my most cherished gaming memories.

I purchased;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009D378SW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(various dk2 users recommended passive (copper to copper) couplers for use with HDMI connectors, this is what I found on Amazon)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0194F1MY4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(this was recommended for users that don't have two hdmi outputs and use a TV for a monitor, etc. The 970gtx typically has a DisplayPort out. This adapter I believe can be used for either the rift or your external tv etc. My importance is for 4k Video with Audio. This is the go to cable. The 4k capability here is very important with the Rift. This cable is verified to work.)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(these or AmazonBasics seem to be the goto USB 3.0 extension cables, DK2/CV1 owners recommend AmazonBasics, but they are all sold out. These are the next best bet. I plan on using this to go through my wall to my Powered USB 3.0 Hubs).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192LPK5M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(I bought this as its a reliable brand, 4 port usb POWERED hub, you are going to get better results with USB 3.0 when its powered and extended due to obvious cable length limitations.)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019OSCJ7K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(As the DisplayPort to HDMI was by Club3D, this cable is highly rated and reliably 4k Capable, I figured it was a no brainer).

Hope that helps, I feel confident, through my research I should be able to accomplish what I want. I know USB limits you to 15ft, but in my experience when you use powered USB hubs, you can get beyond that. And worst case scenario, you can convert the USB to Cat5 and go much further distances.

I figured, if something doesn't work, I always have use for adapters and hubs. Again my goal was just to get through my wall and have the PC in another room (less than 20foot overall, but I heard the Rift cables are 9ft?) So the Rift setup would end up being 9ft or so in my living room I think.

I would suggest the H-model (NUC6I5SYH) rather than the K-model. The H accommodates a 2.5in SATA drive (SSD or HDD) in addition to an m.2 SSD, whereas the K only has the m.2 slot.

There are many, many reviews of the 6th gen NUC as an ESXi host (just search for "nuc6i5syh esxi"), but these are from the more well-known, virtualisation-centric blogs:

• Virten.net - VMware Homeserver – ESXi on 6th Gen Intel NUC
  
  
• virtuallyGhetto - VSAN 6.2 (vSphere 6.0 Update 2) homelab on 6th Gen Intel NUC
  
  
• From this very subreddit, /u/exnihilo415 installed ESXi on a NUC6I5SYH and shared his thoughts about it.
  
  The 6th gen i5 will be more than sufficient to run a few Win64 and Linux VMs. I have several of the 5th gen i7 NUC (NUC5I7RYH) in a VSAN cluster, and they are great, capable ESXi platforms.
  
  My only complaints about the NUC are:
  
  
• Single NIC, which can be remedied by buying the appropriate USB NIC and installing the relevant VIB. Installation instructions here. Each of my NUCs have a StarTech USB 3.0 to Gigabit Ethernet NIC (USB31000S) for vMotion traffic; you may want one for pfSense. (Works best with a managed switch that supports VLANs)
  
  
• If the fan has to ramp up, it gets very noisy. The i7s are prone to running a little hot, so I hear the fans more than an i5 owner would. For the workload you described, the Plex Media Server might be a concern. If you have huge media files (20-30GB) or do a lot of transcoding, there is the possibility that the server workload will cause the fan to rev up, and the net effect will be like watching a film in the same room as someone blow-drying their hair. I run my Plex server on the NAS to avoid this possibility.
  
  

Specs: Raspberry Pi Zero W running Raspbian. I have a generic case that I found at Microcenter that came with a heat sync. Samba is installed for windows file sharing. Pi VPN is also installed for access from anywhere. Two hard drive enclosures form amazon with a few hard drives I had lying around: 1TB (left) and a 320GB (right). The fan is an Arctic Breeze Mobile and I also have a USB to Ethernet adapter. Everything is connected to a 7 hub Anker powered USB hub. The fan is probably overkill but whatever, it looks cool.

​

Guides I followed to get it all up and running:

How To Geek: How to Turn a Raspberry Pi into a Low-Power Network Storage Device

Combining the two different hard drives to appear as one

Setting up OpenVPN with PiVPN

​

Edit: Added Amazon links - I didn't buy everything from amazon but this is easiest. Some things aren't the exact ones shown but close enough.

​

Edit Edit: Added links to the guides I followed

​

Edit\^3: Thank you all for the support and my first Gold! I didn't think this would get as much support as it has gotten! :)

​

Last Edit hopefully: I apologize I called it a "Cloud" Server. It has stirred up some debate on whether or not it is. I called it a "cloud" server because I can access it from anywhere.

i got the surface dock charger and https://www.amazon.com/CERTIFIED-CHARJENPRO-PREMIUM-Adapter-Chromebook/dp/B01MXKJC4M.

the charjen doesnt have the ethernet and the cord is too short, but that's the only downside to it.if you have your book on desk level it's great but can't really hide it.

now the surface dock is the shit. only downside it that it doesn't fully charge it whn playing games, but i don't game for more than 2 hours at a time which serves me fine. it only drains power when gaming. also helps that i dock it on my desk and use the regular charger for when i take it somewhere.

Let me know what you think of this. If you want all the USB 3.0 ports you mentioned, you will need to get some USB adapters, I think this or that would suit your needs or could add an internal USB 3.0 hub like this but they only add 4 ports instead of the 13 of the external one that I listed.

If you want a good monitor, check out the Asus PB287Q 28.0" 3840x2160 60Hz Monitor.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $328.99 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $96.99 @ Jet
Motherboard | Asus Z170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $149.89 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $159.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO 2TB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $648.92 @ B&H
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $649.99 @ B&H
Case | Corsair 760T Black V2 ATX Full Tower Case | $162.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic G-750 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $93.99 @ SuperBiiz
Optical Drive | LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer | $46.88 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2498.51
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $2478.51
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-03 19:48 EST-0500 |

Or if you wanted to go SLI...

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $328.99 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $96.99 @ Jet
Motherboard | Asus Z170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $149.89 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $159.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO 2TB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $648.92 @ B&H
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $649.99 @ B&H
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $649.99 @ B&H
Case | Corsair 760T Black V2 ATX Full Tower Case | $162.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $119.99 @ Jet
Optical Drive | LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer | $46.88 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $3174.50
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $3154.50
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-03 19:51 EST-0500 |

If you're averse to drilling into your desk like I was, here's what I used for my cable management with less room to work with than you, OP.

The Basic Stuff

2 x 40" Cable management sleeves- $14

30 x adhesive cable management clips- $7

50 x reusable velcro ties- $8

2 x Cable management bins- $23

The strongest double-sided 3M tape you can find- $10 at your local hardware store

Optional, but highly recommended

AmazonBasics Premium Dual Monitor Stand- $190

AmazonBasics 7 Port USB 3.0 Hub with 12V/3A Power Adapter- $27

AmazonBasics 4 Port USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter- $17

• The cable management sleeves should be pretty self-explanatory, but they have the added benefit of having holes cut out already for more efficient cable routing.
  
  
• The clips are useful if you have to route any cables under your desk or just need something to hold individually-wrapped cables in a convenient location under your desk.
  
  
• The velcro ties are useful for organizing your cables before routing them through the sleeves. I prefer to group mine by audio, video, and peripherals, but you may prefer otherwise.
  
  
• Use the cable management bins to hide your messy powerstrip and whatever else you may want to hide. They can also come in handy for routing cables in more complex A/V or music-production set-ups.
  
  
• Powered USB hubs can be really helpful for reducing the number of cables you have to routing from your desk to your PC or from your desk to an outlet. They're also really convenient when you have a phone that needs charged, a new wireless dongle to plug in, or just plugging in your basic peripherals vs. having to reach around the back of your PC to do it. I keep the 7-port Amazon hub on my desk for my mouse/keyboard BT dongles, charging my phone, and when I need to occasionally plug in my mouse/keyboard. Meanwhile, I keep the 4-port hub 3M-taped to the bottom of my desk for when I need to plug in external HD/USB drives.
  
  
• If you have the room in your budget and your monitors support VESA mounts, mounting your monitors would do wonders for your cable management and organization. I recommended Amazon's because I use their VESA mount for my 34" Viotek and it's sturdy as hell, so I imagine their double mount is just as good. That said, there's cheaper alternatives out there, but I just can't speak to their quality.

If you use 4K, it will (by default, but it is really the only way to run it) run as Retina with the usable space of a 1080p display. This is great, in my opinion - it is how I run it - but not every one agrees. My logic is that this makes the user interface elements that I cannot zoom (menu bar, window title bars etc) the correct size compared to what they were designed to, and I can zoom the window of any application in or out as I please.

The alternative is to go with 2560*1440 and not use Retina. This is what the 27" iMacs used to use before they went Retina. This is fine as well - everything is smaller and not being Retina it is not as sharp, but the usable space is great.

As for connections... Avoid HDMI, it is only problematic. Either get one with a DisplayPort and a USB-C to DisplayPort cable or a mini-dock like this one, or spend more to get everything over USB-C. I use a mini-dock, and it works fine for me.

I use an LG display (27MU67, which is an older model). Works great. Only issue is that the menu system was designed by a monkey, but it's not like I spend any time fiddling with that.

Good old Amazon Basic's 4 port powered USB w/ an Apple USB-C to USB adapter.

https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484871884&sr=8-2&keywords=amazon+basic+4+port+usb+hub

One I had from before using a Surface Pro Hackintosh, works great for the Oculus with 3 sensors. All the USB goes into that Rift, and 3 sensors. Long as I keep the 3rd sensor on USB2.0 using the monoprice cable I get no tracking issues related to sensor hookups.

Yeah I love the setup, I had a 2015 Macbook Pro which ran great for work / OSX needs. It made sense to dump the gaming laptop Razer and consolidate the Macbook and Razer into the new one. eGPU made that possible, TB3 rocks speed wise the hit isn't terrible long as you use an external monitor. Works great here.

It might, but it would be safest to use a USB hub with its own power supply.

There are some config.txt options to allow more power to the pi usb ports, but i have seen some enclosures and drives draw just enough power to make the pi flakey.

https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/27708/is-setting-max-usb-current-1-to-give-more-power-to-usb-devices-a-bad-idea

If you have a really good Powered usb HUB, you could use the Hub to power the Pi even.

I use this one, it has 3 usb ports Just for power.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84

But it a bit pricey, but it could power 3 pies. :) or fast charge your phones.

Be Sure to get a GOOD power supply for the Pi if you try to power the drive over the Pi USB.

I'm using a new Alienware 15 r3 (i7 6820K, GTX 1070) If you watch your deals you can get one for around $2.2K or less (got mine for $2K after tax.) They have some component issues they are working through at the moment but for the most part it runs like a dream. My AW15 replaced an enormous watercooled i7 4790K, GTX 980 ti Classified rig. Steam VR benchmarks on the two machines are within a few decimal points of each other at 10.8 & 11 respectively (Classified out ahead.) I have an Oculus and a Vive (and a PSVR & Gear VR) both run without a hitch, supersampling up to around 1.3 to 1.5 across the board (still need to do some fine tuning.) I run both HMDs through the Vive Linkbox plugged into the Thunderbolt 2 / DVI on the AW15, plug a second monitor into the HDMI (though I only use the external monitor) and still have a Thunderbolt 3 and AW Amplifier Port open for further horsepower and lighting fast storage, though it probably won't be needed for at least a year from now. 3 remaining USB 3 ports (one type C) I'm using 2 Anker 7 Port USB 3 Hubs for all other connections (3 Rift Sensors, Link Box, wireless keyboard, external RAID enclosure) everything seems to be working exceptionally well. You can get larger HUBs but you will overload a single USB 3 port so it is best split them up. All and all I am very happy with the switch to the laptop and I have room to grow with the TB3 and AW Amplifier for the future.

Anker 7 Port Hub
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-10-Port-Transfer-PowerIQ-Charging/dp/B00VDVCQ84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483735971&sr=8-3&keywords=anker+usb+3+hub

Vive Link Box
https://www.vive.com/us/accessory/link-box/

There isn't a way to automatically switch the bluetooth pairing when you plug your macbook into your IMAC to use as a monitor. However since you are wiring it up anyways, I'd suggest getting a cheap USB KVM (keyboard video mouse). This would only work with a wired keybaord and/or mouse and allow you to switch between which computer the USB connection is routed to. If you're doing a lot of typing you might want to swing by the folks over at /r/MechanicalKeyboards and upgrade to a more pleasurable typing experience. Even a bottom end mechanical keyboard is going to be many times better than a non-mechanical, bottom end ranges from $39-$65.

Since you don't need to actually switch VGA video, I'd recommend a USB switcher only: something like this: https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Computer-Peripheral-Sharing-GUS402/dp/B00BD8I2OY/

They have a USB 3.0 version as well which I would recommend if you have a nice external harddrive you'd like to include in the switching, this could switch a USB wired mouse, keyboard, speakers, external Harddrive, or any other USB based peripheral between your iMac and MacBook with the press of a single button.

Gotcha, dual monitors (or triple monitors) are always nice. I have a GTX 660 Ti and Im thinking of upgrading to a GTX 970 over the summer. I personally recommend using the same brand of GPU as you do for your Mobo. I have an MSI Mobo and Im going to make sure I get an MSI GTX 970. Not sure that it really matters but its just my preference. If you want to go with something black that works there is a 7 Port Amazon Basics USB Hub (http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGJR4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419539487&sr=8-1&keywords=amazon+basics+7+port+usb+hub). Its big enough that it won't get pulled around while cords are plugged in but should still be small enough to hide behind the monitor or desktop. I'd recommend looking into a Dual Monitor Desk Mount once you have the two 27" monitors, they look really good and let you raise your monitors more to eye level which is better ergonomically. I use a Dual Monitor Desk Mount and this is what my set up looks like: http://i.imgur.com/zguLVDi.jpg The mount I bought is this one in case you want to look into it: http://www.amazon.com/Monitor-Mount-Stand-Adjustable-Screens/dp/B009S750LA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419539777&sr=8-1&keywords=dual+monitor+mount

Never seen a Surface like device with an Ethernet port. I doubt one exists. They are mobile devices so an Ethernet port is counter to it's primary function.

>absolute best (reliable & smallest) usb adapter for Ethernet?

Hard to say... reviews are scarce. There's this from 2013:
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2415501,00.asp
Still a good choice and there are interesting options...
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B0095EFXMC/. 476 reviews 4.5 of 5

This from 2016 ... but 10/100??? Not fastest.
http://www.wirelesshack.org/our-picks-for-best-usb-to-ethernet-adapter.html
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00ET4KHJ2/ 804 reviews 4.3 of 5


Amazon popularity contest and products I have had good luck with
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU/ 807 reviews 4.2 of 5

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC0H9IE/ref=psdc_13983791_t3_B0095EFXMC 584 reviews 4.7 of 5

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00AQM8586/. 767 reviews 4.5 of 5


So maybe the Anker model however... would you want fries ports with that?

expect nothing out of the box. the pi is a blank slate, it's going to be up to you to decide what to do with it.

did you order just a bare pi? if so, better get some microsd cards, usb cables, hdmi cable, keyboard, wifi dongle, etc. if you ordered a "starter kit" from somewhere you might be better prepared.

while you're waiting, download install images of NOOBS, Raspbian, a flavor of XBMC, an appropriate image writer application. if you have some microSD cards lying around, copy out images now (great if you have some older 1-4G cards lying around). the process can be a little tricky the first time or two. having multiple cards allows you to change what your Pi is doing quickly. general purpose/programming, boot up raspbian, want to watch some movies, swap cards and boot up raspbmc. prefer to multi-boot? install NOOBS or BerryBoot and a few OS images on the same card (be sure to use a 32G or smaller card).

if you're going to be watching video on a regular basis, invest the $5 at the store for the codec license keys for better performance.

if you don't have a case, they are useful to have. google will show you hundreds of options but this one is currently my favorite.

did you know you can power your Pi from a USB hub? this one is cheap. plug the pi into the hub to power it, the hub into the pi for extra usb ports, and the hub into the wall to power everything taking up only one outlet.

looking for ideas on what to do with your pi? adafruit.com, besides selling lots of things for your pi, has great tutorials on what to do with it.

congratulations and have fun!

Remember: Always be cautious when using payment methods other than PayPal Goods and Services.


Title: [USA-ID][H]2016 Macbook Pro 13 ntb, iPad Pro 9.7 plus accessories [W]Paypal

Username: /u/IZDragon

Body:

Timestamps first http://imgur.com/a/jTHgD

Macbook Pro was purchased from the refurb apple store in March and used for word processing, excel and school work. It is the base model 13 inch with no touchbar. Device is basically flawless all around, and the screen had nothing that I could see except for the keyboard marks. Comes with all the original packaging. Also includes an Amazonbasics laptop sleeve, official apple USBC to USBA adapter, USBC to lightning cable, and the following USB-C Hub

$1100 shipped for everything

iPad Pro was bought used. It is the space grey 32gb 9.7 version. Includes all the original packaging and the original charger. The device is in excellent condition except for the one dent in the case near the bottom. The screen, camera, and rest of the device is in excellent condition. Comes with a silicone case, and the smart cover. The silicone case has a chunk missing at the same spot as the dent. The Logitech Create case was also purchased used, the bottom left key on the keyboard isn't anchored at the bottom, but stays on the keyboard just fine and actuates normally. There is a crack in the case near one of the speaker cutouts but it does not affect functionality of the case at all.

$400 for everything.

Thanks for looking and let me know if you have any questions!

I have verified trades over at /r/hardwareswap also.


I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

Everything out there is a rip off. It is stupidly easy to DIY something that performs just as good for half the price. And DIY has the added benefit of flexible modularity.

For example that Anker panel is $140 for 15 watts. That is insane! Full sized solar panels are under $1 per watt and you should never pay more than $2 per watt for small panels.

Shop around for a cheap normal solar panel. Since this is apartment based you can save money and go for the bulkier panels. For example here is a 50 watt panel for $70. It measures about 2' on a side and weighs 9 pounds. Just small enough that if you need to bail by car you can bring it with you.

Next you need a DC-DC regulator. These take many forms and determine how flexible your system will be. The simplest option is to get a 5V regulator which will be able to provide juice for all of your USB based items. There are fancier regulators with voltage and current adjustment but it sounds like these aren't for you.

Then get a high powered USB hub or maybe 2. That hub can only do 20 watts max. The panel and regulator I linked can do 50W. This gives you headroom on overcast days but it is also a waste on bright sunny days.

> but I'm not sure how I'd use something like that to charge batteries such as 18650's or AA's as those chargers don't have USB connections

Those chargers do have USB if you buy the right chargers. For example the Lii-500 does NiMH and li-ion all from micro-usb.

Another option is to get a 12V regulator and also connect that to the panel. There are a lot of chargers that run from 12V DC.

edit: I forgot about the connectors! These are good for low-power DIY.

Other users might know issues with this hub that I haven't come across yet, but I received this two days ago as a replacement for the Sabrent one that you linked in your OP and it's been working great. I'll admit that the ports feel a little flimsy and cheaply made (which they definitely are) but so far it's been totally fine and has more ports than I will likely ever need. The Sabrent one worked fine, but there was a defect in the plug itself (little plastic burr) that prevented it from plugging in to the port all the way. I'm sure I just received a defective unit and you may have better luck, but it constantly slipped out because of this and when I tried to remove the burr, the device stopped working altogether.

I'm in high school as well and I'm planning to do something like this but I don't want to buy stuff I don't necessary need. Basically the idea to have the Mac on a stand while next to the monitor (which is on a stand as well) is connected to it. There are also speakers, and I'll be using an old keyboard that I have (usb) as well as a bluetooth mouse.

So far this is what I'm thinking:

Laptop stand: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OOYECC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

USB Hub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A29Y8OP2GPR7PE

Basic speakers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GHY5F3K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

HDMI Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8SIJY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Thunderbolt to HDMI Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DRK2ZIK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ

And finally, the monitor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IA9FXAO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I haven't decided nor found a good stand for the monitor so if anyone can help that'd be great. Also, anybody else can comment, I was just seeing if this was buying too much or is there an easier way. I have a nrMBP mid 2012 13'' for reference.

I have an Early 2015 13" rMBP and currently have all of my gear connected via a USB hub.

I'm using the Focusrite Scarlett 18i8 (1st generation) at 24/96 in Ableton Live 9 and there is no noticeable difference in latency when it's connected to the hub or plugged in directly to the onboard USB port.

I've been using this 9-port Anker USB 3.0 hub since I bought this MBP a few months ago, and I can't honestly say anything bad about it. I've got two bus-powered USB HDDs (Western Digital) connected to it, two bus-powered MIDI keyboards/controllers, the USB-MIDI data connections from three synths, and the data connection to the 18i8. The hub is powered by an included AC power adapter, and it all runs swimmingly. The price wasn't too bad either.

Probably sounds like I'm shilling for Anker here, but this particular unit was mentioned quite a few times in my searches for a reliable and stable hub and I'm happy to say that it's done the job perfectly. I haven't looked much into the USB-C standard and whether or not you could buy the cable necessary to convert from USB-C to the USB (3.0 Type B SuperSpeed) connector that this hub uses; if so, I can at least say that this one hub will do what you want. Statistically speaking, I'm sure that means that there are many others out there that perform just as well – if not better.

I had my little guy in a 5g when I got him and used these to keep it cool. (linking directly to usa amazon just so you know what I got but you'd probably be better off finding the same/similar on a more appropriate site for your location!)

USB Fans (x2) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XN24GY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - these are SUPER quiet - could barely hear them when running!

USB Hub - I covered up the two remaining ports with tape so water didn't get in it, but you could also just get a hub with two ports instead of four! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XMD7KPU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Extension cable to plug in the hub to my power strip that had usb outlets. If your power strip doesn't have a usb port then you'll need to get a brick as well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00007FGU5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

In the North Carolina summer at 90-110 degrees F, this kept my tank at about 62-65 F

I have the Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual LED Power Switches ($6 on Amazon using code 360OFFUM43) that I discovered from this post over on /r/buildapcsales. I have the two Rift sensors connected to it, but I have my headset connected to my Clevo's HDMI port and one of it's four USB 3.0 ports. When my wheel (T300RS GT), shifter (TH8A), and wireless mouse dongle are connected to the laptop USB ports, that leaves one open port on the hub for my cell phone charging cable, and of course when I'm using the wheel, I don't use the game controller, so I keep that switched off.

My laptop also has a USB type-C USB 3.1/Thunderbolt combo port, and I was going to get a hub that connects via Thunderbolt with 4 USB 3.1 ports @ 10gbps (around $40), but I couldn't pass up on that $6 deal, and it works perfectly fine for all that I use it for.

Regarding the better battery life on the touch controllers - I imagine it would save on battery life if you switch off the sensor ports on the hub when not in use.

I post my solution every time I see this. My current setup is an anker usb data hub. It has one port that somehow provides power while still allowing data transfers. It charges my phone, Pixel XL, about 1 amp which is enough to keep it charging while I have android auto running with maps and music. It has worked flawlessly for me as that was one big annoyance with using AA. I bought the following and it fits perfectly in the center console. The inverter is whisper quiet too. All you see is the cable coming out of the center console. I tried finding a cigarette adapter to power the hub and gave up after buying two that didnt work because the tip is different than what it needs. Before you go looking for one that has multiple tips make sure to look at the specs as this requires more amps than any I could find provided. For the record I don't get any thing for free from anker or represent them but I like their stuff and it worked for me. I know you're probably not trying to run AA but this works really well. I have an 18' so I'm not sure if the if the older models have a cigarette lighter plug in the center console. This may be overkill since you arent trying to run AA, but it will still work great for charging.

Anker hub

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014ZQ07NE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bapdas 150W Car Power Inverter DC 12V to 110V AC Car Converter with 3.1A Dual USB Car Adapter-Black

ie=UTF8&psc=1https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M9C5C4L/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Anker Cable

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DD5YHMH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have that cheap ass "hub"! Gotta love aliexpress, right? It doesn't seem to work. But for like 1.99 I had to try it.

In my experience powered hubs work MUCH better with the Raspberry Pi. Even my "good" tiny passive hub has random disconnects (can't keep the keyboard plugged in or I can't type anymore). But with a powered hub it works just fine.
This is the one I am using now and it works great:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPMEOYM

I like the power switches, they make it easier to plug in a power hog without having to disconnect everything else.

I got mine at the last price drop of $820 and filled out my library nicely last month between the Steam and Oculus sales. I'm more than satisfied with it now but here are my recommendations:

• Buy it from Oculus to save taxes.
  
• Install Oculus Tray Tool and add Steam VR to the Oculus Home Library so you can move between the two easily with the headset on.
  
• Get the 3rd sensor for roomscale, it makes playing games more enjoyable when you can lose yourself a bit and not concentrate on staying faced the right way. Also opens up compatibility for a lot of Steam VR games not on Oculus Home.
  
• I often see usb pci-e cards recommended but this usb hub worked for me without any hiccups.
  
• I'd also recommend browsing the Prime Day sales for hdmi and usb extension cables for the headset. I got 10ft cables for $10 each and that feels just right for me, I couldn't go any shorter. Having the PC up on the table with the cord running down really eats up distance fast.

I can't say anything about the device you bought, but Anker's 10 Port 60W Data Hub works great for me (I'm using it on a laptop).
Pretty sure yours will be good enough but if you have a lot of peripherals to connect to it (besides the Rift stuff), it might not work completely, so try to connect only the bare minimum and then add stuff in to see if it stops working correctly.

Okay, I think I follow, but the speakers have their own amp built in, so would I really want to put the PC output through the FiiO and then into the speakers?

Would this work:

So the FiiO connects through USB, so I'd need a mixer that would have at least 2 3.5mm inputs, and at least 1 USB output and 1 3.5mm output, the USB output being connected to the FiiO and the output 3.5mm being connected to the speakers, and the inputs would be the computer and the Chromecast via 3.5mm?

Is there any particular example you'd recommend for that?

Edit: I've been thinking about it, this would probably work too but it's definitely not that seamless.

If I used this: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61UUWWVypTL._SL1018_.jpg

Where the inputs would be the PC 3.5mm, and the Chromecast, and the output would be the Speaker 3.5mm.

Then I could just get this I guess: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1527808104&sr=8-7&keywords=usb+hub+3.0+switch

So I could just click a button and disconnect the Amp/Headphones.

Definitely the most intensive way to do it, I think, but I was looking around for the type of device I was describing, and I couldn't really find anything. I could very well just not be using the right terminology in my searches though so I'm not sure.

I am honestly struggling with the abundance of mechanical keyboard suggestions. I don’t use one, and very few people at my workplace use one. I will say that unless there’s some significant ergonomic benefit that I’m missing, the “pro” of having a keyboard that feels great comes at the heavy expense of potentially annoying the hell out of your colleagues with the noise. It depends if your friend works remotely or in an office, but I can say that in an office environment a mechanical keyboard seems like a disrespectful move in my personal and professional opinion.

Three things I can suggest that are each universally useful and cheap are a cable keeper, a USB hub, and this specific stress ball. I love this stress ball because it has such an awesome squishy texture to it. Unfortunately you don’t get to pick the color (not the slightest idea why) but most people end up getting a black one, myself included.

It sounds like all you really need are a USB and HDMI extension cable. These would be for the monitor and peripherals in your office.

30ft kinda pushes the limits for USB and HDMI. Regular cables can work, but not always, and you might get signal dropout or other issues.

I would recommend spending a bit more on "active" cables that will boost signals and enable reliable longer runs.

30ft Active USB cable:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00DMFFL2W

30ft Active HDMI cable:

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=12959

You should probably also get a powered USB hub so that you have multiple USB ports to work with in your office:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Charging-Storage-Devices/dp/B014ZQ07NE/

Ok thanks a lot for your answers !

I went for a Samsung Evo+ + WD HDD (I heard that WD HDD are quite good) + some usb hub

Just to be sure, this sould look like this right ? (never used an USB hub before yeah..)

It also depends if you intend to charge things off of it, you would need an external power source as well. But if you only plan to use it for file transfers, or data retrieval, any non-external power source ones would be fine. If you don't need more than 1.5amps (to only to charge one phone/tablet and for usb devices or usb drives) something like this would be ideal. But if you need 1.5amp+ (let's say you need to charge your phone and a tablet which would require let's say 4 amps or 2 per each device) you would need something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/iXCC-Transfer-Charging-Individual-Switches/dp/B01IIPCC0O/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1486361331&sr=8-5&keywords=powered+usb+3.0+hub) would be ideal.

Parts List

Old telephone ringer box

RaspberryPi

Nixie tube vfdclock from ebay
or from these guys

Powered USB hub

Amazon USB speakers

PIR sensor (to turn on nixie tubes at night)

IR receiver/sender

GPIO buttons (they are pretty cheap, next time I'd use these. Thanks /u/John_Barlycorn for the link/idea!

old sony ps2 remote - I chose this remote because they are cheap, built solid and are in brand new shape (no one used them as a remote) and have easy LIRC support

USB mic


Edit:
forgot the pics!

Edit2: Linked everything

Hello! I hope you find these as cool as I do! I think it'd make any car look awesome!

And hmm, for me?! I'd love this! My computer only has two... :/

Oh! Vroom Vroom!!!

There are wireless USB devices but they rarely get good reviews and I would not recommend them for use with a 3D printer - if you empty the buffer, the printer will wait for commands and the hotend will create blobs. You're probably better running the printer hardwired or writing our .gcode files and using a memory card with your printer. For other devices, one of these boxes would probably be OK.

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Wireless-Sharing-Station-GUWIP204/dp/B0058DN1Q4


BTW if your printer uses a generic USB->Serial interface with sketchy windows drivers, it may not work at all. name brand printers like Ultimaker, Prusa3D, etc. may fare better.

May I suggest a km switch. I use this IOGEAR 2 x 4 USB 2.0 Peripheral Sharing Switch (GUS402) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BD8I2OY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_dzqDub08Z4RD7

And it works perfectly for switching between my gaming rig and my iMac. You could hot glue the actual switch underneath your desk so it's hidden. Also I had those same two desk tops and the larger one started to bow in the middle so I'd definitely recommend a leg in the middle or something. Otherwise wicked clean setup good job

If I was parachuted into a project without Ethernet or IP troubleshooting tools, I'd nip $200 from the project budget and get:

1. A USB/Ethernet dongle adapter. Disable all the Windows protocols and services so it can be used purely for network sniffing. I like the ordinary StarTech units, which are inexpensive and robust.
   
   
2. A network tap. While you can configure some switches for port mirroring, and true passive network taps are expensive, you can get a lot of bang for your buck with a DualComm 5-port switch that has one port permanently set up as a mirror output.
   
   
3. Wireshark. Again, there are dedicated-purpose industrial analyzers on the market (I swear by Frontline Test Equipment) but Wireshark is the Swiss Army Knife of IP analysis, free and well understood.
   
   
4. A powered USB hub. You don't need those dongles and switches hanging precariously off your laptop.
   
   That's only chewed up $140 of your budget. Spend the rest on energy drinks and Funyuns.

So this has only 2 USB2.0 ports, but that's enough for M&KB. Fits your budget pretty well too :)

Another option would be using this with a second hub that features all the other ports you need. It's small and relatively cheap, so all in all you could still keep your budget. You're also more flexible this way, although you'll need two dongles...

Looking up that monitor gives a pretty wide range of models and I can't see which if any contain a USB C charging connector. Can you supply us with more information such as a model number for the monitor?

To my knowledge there are very few monitors out there with sufficient USB-C/Thunderbolt 3 power to charge a MacBook. Most of the desktop port replicators on the market also rely on the laptop's own power adapter to supply pass-through power. This is because while it is technically USB charging, it's at a much higher power level than what was supported by the old USB (A/B) standard, and only certain cables and hubs can even carry that amount of power.

That being said, it's certainly possible for a monitor to power a MacBook Pro, if it is designed to do so. Odds are any monitor that has that feature would have advertised it pretty plainly. The only ones I'm yet aware of are the expensive LG ones that Apple sells. So yours probably does not.

What I would recommend you do is invest in a small desktop port replicator. I have one that I paid $28 for on Amazon that has a pass-through USB-C power port, a regular USB-A port, and an HDMI port. That would allow you to connect your monitor, power cord, and mouse through a single USB port in your Mac.

Edit: product link on amazon

yeah, plugging the egpu before turning it on helps me too.
im not sure about the cpu tem, but i have a external usb fan on both the laptop and the egpu. i do get around 54-58C on the gpu with the fan on. and about 60-70 with it off. ill link the fan below.

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S4, Quiet 140mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWH4FL4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_90-QDbXKSY5QJ

Also, ive been experimenting on different set ups. currently i have a type c dock (charjen pro) it has a hdmi connector so i plugged it directly to the monitor. so far it seems promising (seems like it eliminated the stutter issue).

CharJenPro USB C Hub, Certified... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXKJC4M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This is a copy and paste of a review: Unit is compact, very light, and well made; supports a total of 900 mA which is what a USB 3.0 Port can supply; if you have USB 2.0 ports, be careful that the total of all the devices plugged into this hub is 500 mA or less; there is a chart which lists a few common devices but you can check how much current a device is drawing by opening:

Control Panel --> Device Manager --> Universal Serial Bus Controllers --> Select the port or hub --> select the Power Tab.

You may have to select a few before you find the one you are interested in. When I selected the first "Generic Port" it listed the items plugged into the hub: the wireless mouse receiver at 100 mA and the same for the keyboard receiver. I have a video card plugged into another port by itself, it shows 500 mA. Remember that though the hub will support 900 mA...if your computer has USB 2.0 ports, ONLY plug in a max of 500 mA in devices into the hub. (I have windows 7, so if your OS is different, the method of examining the ports may be different.)

In my application, I have the laptop on a shelf and the wireless mouse was not working well; with the receiver plugged into the hub and the hub "dangling on its 6" cord, the receiver is now 10" closer to the mouse and it works fine.

Cons; product description did not indicate total mA supported by this device; also a caution about using it only for 500 mA max (USB 2.0) or 900 mA max (USB 3.0) would have been very appropriate in the buying description.

Here is the actual product: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU

I have the same brand but with more ports: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NGQWL2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I've already filled it up. Works great, it's the best hub I've ever had.

I know it’s nothing special, but this is my macsetup! I work primarily on video editing projects, some Photoshopping, with some Wordpress website building sprinkled in there. But this setup is used mostly for generic browsing, YouTube/Netflix, and Plex server hosting.


So this is my setup that I’ve built over the course of 4 years.

• Monitor - ASUS Designo MX279H 27”
  
• Wallpapers - Reddit user u/aenami
  
• Computer - Apple 13” Retina MacBook Pro (Late 2013), 4GB RAM, 128 GB SSD
  
• Computer Stand - twelvesouth HiRise for MacBook
  
• Desk mat - PRÖJS from IKEA
  
• Keyboard - Apple Magic Keyboard (AA battery version)
  
• Mouse - Logitech MX Master Wireless Mouse
  
• Tablet - Apple iPad Air 2, 64 GB, Gold
  
• Tablet Stand - Griffin A-Frame
  
• Phone - Apple iPhone 6, 64 GB, Space Grey
  
• Phone Stand - Twelve South HiRise for iPhone/iPad
  
• Speakers - M-Audio AV32
  
• Headphones - Audio-Technica ATH-M50x
  
• USB Power Hub - Not sure exactly what brand it is, but it’s similar to this one.
  
• USB Data Hub - Anker USB 3.0 7-Port Hub
  
• WD easystore 8TB (Not pictured)
  
• 2x - Western Digital 4TB My Book
  
• 2x - Western Digital 2TB My Passport
  Hard Drive Toaster - StarTech.com HDD Docking Station
  
• UPS - APC Back-UPS Pro 1500VA UPS (Not pictured)
  
  
  Little sumo man was a gift from a friend. Custom R2-series astromech droid was purchased a trip to Disney Paris. And I name my external hard drives after characters in movies and TV shows that I enjoy.
  
  
  Let me know if you have any questions!

I bought a Satechi from Amazon for my 15" but it has 2 ports, so it worked well for it.

I wish I got this one instead from HooToo. Seems simple enough to use just one port, which is perfect for your MacBook.

For charging, it really doesn't matter what you use as long as each port can provide 5v 800mA. The USB hubs that only provide the standard 500mA for USB will work too, but your phones may exceed the operating specification of the hub if they don't start 100% charged.

My short list when getting a USB hub was:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EYXZI4M

http://www.amazon.com/Family-Sized-Desktop-Charger-PowerIQTM-Technology/dp/B00GTGETFG

http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-10-Port-High-Speed-RHB-500/dp/B004F38WT4

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGJR4

Based on reviews and forum posts around the web, they all provide the necessary current for 5 devices being charged at once. They're all good enough to power a Raspberry Pi model B, so they're all good enough for some pretty demanding USB load with stable power.

Ok, Everyone. I am going to try answer all of your questions at once.

> Can you make me one? I'll pay you!

No, Sorry. I am unable to make these for you, I just don't have the time.

> What software did you use?

I used RetroPie and Emulation Station found in one package found here. It was super easy, going in I had no idea what I was doing. Google and Youtube are your friends. Also /u/kristopher_m7 helped me figure some of it out.

> How much did it cost?

About 80$ plus the broken NES

> What hardware did you use?

Shutdown Circuit
USB Hub
Controllers I used 2

> Where did you get the ROMs?

CoolROM

> Was it hard?

No, not at all. It was frustrating at times, but fun and educational. But seriously, Google is your friend. I would recommend it to anyone that has some computer experience.

You've already been linked the guide website a few times so I won't beat a dead horse, but one thing I'll say - when you decide you want an external hard drive don't fuck around with Y cables. Get a desktop external drive or something like this.

I use that hub, it's flawless, only takes up 1 usb port on the Wii U. You can connect a GC controller adapter to it (or any other usb controller) as well, or use it as a fast charger for your phone in the living room.

Okay, so in case you or anyone else was wondering, I got it to work.

I ended up purchasing https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In case the link dies it's an Anker 10 Port 60W USB 3.0 Hub with 7 Data Transfer Ports and 3 PowerIQ Charging Ports. Basically you plug that into an outlet, so make sure you have an available outlet near the USB Hub.

I plugged that into my usb extension cable (which is a BlueRigger 32 feet USB 2.0 Type A Male to A Female Active Extension / Repeater Cable seen here https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005LJKEXS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Then I plugged the DolphinBar into the first port. Works like a charm. Basically, the extension cable just needed more juice because it couldn't transmit the signal through 32 feet of cable without an external source.

And, for the record, if anyone comes across an issue like this, my next step was to do USB over a Cat5 or Cat6 (or whichever cable you prefer to use) which I was fairly certain would have worked.

Learned a lot about USB cables.

That's not a powered hub, as it doesn't plug into the mains power supply (e.g., your wall power socket), so you'd be back to square one.

Just about any powered hub will work, including this one. The most important thing about selecting a hub for your Pi is that the hub is powered. If the hub doesn't plug into your power socket in your wall, then it's not powered and will not work with your Pi. You can tell the one I linked to is good-to-go by looking at the fifth picture on that Amazon page -- there's a power adapter that plugs into the hub and then into the wall to supply the USB ports with power. If you select a hub that doesn't plug into the wall, then the USB ports will need to get their power from the Pi, and they just can't do that because the Pi's USB ports don't put out enough power to power the USB peripherals connected to the hub (unlike a desktop or laptop computer, whose USB ports usually do put out enough power to power 2 or 3 USB devices).

Then, you'll want one of these adapters so you can actually plug it into your Pi Zero's micro USB port.

That's the exact setup I have going with my Pi Zeroes. Plug USB hub into the wall power socket, plug the hub's USB cable into the OTG adapter, then plug the OTG adapter into the Pi's USB port. Voila, 7 powered USB ports for your Pi.

Edit: I'm not Spanish, but I live close enough to Spanish-speakers that I may as well be. Let's just say I've dodged my fair share of chankla headshots.

Edit #2: Ok, so I did some research on the hub you linked to and it appears that it is, in fact, a powered hub, where the power plugs into the micro-USB slot next to the regular USB slots. So, in fact, that hub will probably work!

Ok so this is the amazon hub I have

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407942392&sr=8-1&keywords=amazon+basic+usb+hub

Apple decided to put a software power limit to the USB CCK (Camera Connection Kit) a few years ago. The hardware is capable of outputting 100ma, but Apple limited it to 20ma. The trick works by making it think that there are 4 ports instead of one, meaning the iPad gives the hub 80ma, and then the hub can give 80ma to the usb stick. I believe that is how it works anyway.

Might I ask where you will be getting the usb sticks from? Will they be given to you (in lectures or from friends etc), or is it so you can plug in a usb stick back and forth from a computer? The reason I ask, is if it is for your use, I have found that the SD card CCK is much better for this. The SD card reader has no power limit, so no hub is required and it works for any card (formatted in FAT32/HFS+) - so 128gb cards work, and most likely 256gb cards when they become reasonably priced :P. Its a lot less messy (only one cable sticking out), and for the times when I want to plug it into a computer with no SD card slot, I can use a USB 3 to SD card reader;

Something like this (I'm in the UK so not sure of the best US equivalents)
http://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Information-Card-Reader-TS-RDF5K/dp/B009D79VH4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407942666&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+3+sd+card+reader

In terms of speed its the same as USB 2, and when it comes to mounting them in iFile its exactly the same as USB CCK. And I think the same price for the SD kit over USB and SD card prices are the same as USB sticks too.

Let me know whether that sounds better or if you still require USB. It really just depends on how often you are going to be doing it, I certainly wouldn't want to take out the hub in the middle of lecture or something - would kind of defeat the purpose of the mini :P.

will the one you linked here work for exactly what i need? meaning i can plug it into my otg adapter, and it will automatically let me use my keyboard and mouse? cause i have usb ports already, but i dont think they allow for data charging, and they dont have a male port like this, they all have a wall outlet to plug into. just want to make sure if i plug this into the otg adapter and then plug a keyboard and mouse into it, it will work completely fine with my tablet. thank you. this says transfer speeds, but i dont know if that means data transfer. just clarifying before i buy, cause it doesnt specifically say data transfer.

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UM43/dp/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1501177388&sr=1-4&keywords=usb+hub+3.0

Yeah, I'm really hoping in the near future somebody (if not nintendo) releases a dockless dock. Like, a USB C to HDMI adaptor like this.


I'm going to visit a friend four hours away tomorrow night, and it's a bit of a bummer that I have to pack up the dock and everything so we can play MK8 on his TV

Here is a budget setup
1x HDMI Cable - https://amzn.com/B014I8TC4E
1x Logitech camera that will sit on top of your TV - https://amzn.com/B0040508OY
1x USB hub https://amzn.com/B00XMD7KPU that will plug into users PC
1x USB cable extension for Camera to USB hub - https://amzn.com/B00NH12O5I
1x Yeti microphone - https://amzn.com/B00N1YPXW2
1x USB Cable extension for Yeti microphone to USB hub - https://amzn.com/B00NH12O5I

Might have to get some stuff for cable management and get some cheap video adapters on Amazon, but this setup is like $300 max. Also, I would write up some good documentation and have it available in the room at all times. You will have to create some kind of documentation either way with any expensive solutions you find (Polycom trio, Logitech etc..).

You should try an active USB extension.

Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Speed-Active-Extension-Repeater-Cable/dp/B0052EXWOK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453367203&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=usb+extension+active&psc=1

or

http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Meter-Active-Extension-Female/dp/B006LFL4X0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1453367203&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+extension+active

just search for "usb extension active" you will find plenty of options. I use an 20 meter extension with USB hub and it works great.


Also an more powerfull USB hub might help:

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-Power-Adapter/dp/B00DQFGJR4/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1453367377&sr=1-6&keywords=usb+hub

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JX1ZS5O/

This one has worked great for me. I've got two external HDDs connected (one USB powered and one dedicated power), my headset (3rd gen Astro A50, USB powered), and sometimes plug a flash drive in to upload photos for backgrounds.... Good speeds since it's USB3.0... I like that it's hot swappable too, because I can disconnect/reconnect my headphones anytime they have an issue by pressing the button rather than pulling the cable.

Is it a "Late 2012" model with 4 USB 3 ports?

Here's what I'm doing with a similar Mac mini...

I have 8 * 8TB Drives. 4 are live and 4 are used as cloned backups. This supports my 32TB library. I just keep adding in pairs, and I'm about to add 2 more.

Just add USB hubs if you need more ports. This is what I'm using. There are other hubs with more ports, but this meets my needs.

I then connect these drives in pairs. I currently have 8 of them in use. I have 1 in standby in case one of the others ever fails, I can bring it into use. I travel a lot, so being able to do that remotely is nice.

I run Carbon Copy Cloner to clone the drives instead of Time Machine. This allows me to schedule exactly when I want them cloning or I can manually click a button to clone on demand if I've just updated the library. It will send email alerts and notifications if there's a problem, and it will optionally mount/unmount the cloned drive (as well as other actions/scripts).

Really this is all a super easy way to go without any network issues you may encounter with a NAS.

There are some downsides as ultimately NAS/RAID can be less expensive and certainly less cluttered. My whole set up is in a giant server cabinet which houses a bunch of other equipment in for our home theater and the rest of the house, so that's not an issue.

Just got this here. http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGJR4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1413374779&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+port+hub Its the amazon hub. I grabbed a refurbished/used one from their warehouse deals they have and I can saw it was worth the 18 bucks and works amazing. Also It looks like it wasn't even use that much or really at all to be honest.

Have you seen Level 1 Tech's KVM? They make a dual monitor versions that supports 1440p at 144hz. While not officially supported G-Sync pass-through is reported to work as well as FreeSync. They're cheaper than comparable IOGear dual monitor DisplayPort KVM, but that's not saying much as it's still $565 without cables. https://store.level1techs.com/products/kvm-switch-dual-monitor-model

I've looked for a USB switch that is controllable via keyboard commands but have yet to find one. I'm currently using IOGear's GUS402 4-way USB switch with IOGear's GCS1104 4-way DVI KVM to switch my keyboard and mouse between the console and pass-through ports to get around console port limitations. It has a remote switcher that I put next to my keyboard. The switch works well for the most part but I do have issues with devices not being recognized occasionally and having to cycle through outputs. That's likely due to the fact that I have 20 ft of cable end to end including KVM, switch, and device cables.

You might have more luck asking for a solution in /r/homelab than here. It won't be anything custom built but there might be a used piece of enterprise gear that would do what you're looking for.

The USB-OTG spec technically supports this, but most devices do not. You will typically need a custom kernel in order to enable this. I also don't know of any "reputable" manufacturers that a make a cable for this. I found this Y cable which has mixed reviews.

The Galaxy S8 with USB-C is better off though. You can use a hub like this to charge and use USB devices at the same time (and even output to HDMI if you want). Note that the S8 will only charge at the standard 5V/1.6A with a hub like this. Fast charging will not work.

If you like the T300, then we recommend you get the Transformer Book T300LA-XH71T, which has a dual core i7 4500U processor, 8GB ram, 256GB SSD and a 1920x1080 13.3" detachable screen. It only has 1 USB 3.0 port, but you could easily buy an AmazonBasics USB 3.0 hub to obtain additional ports. It has a micro-HDMI port, so you'll need a microHDMI-to-HDMI cable in order to plug into other devices.

For your games, you don't necessarily need a dedicated GPU because they aren't very intense. You may need to dial back some of the graphics settings, but Civ tends to be CPU intense, and this dual core i7 should have enough power to play comfortably.

Would something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075MBS6JY/

And this : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071G83L1J/

Work?

I didn’t watch the video since it’s pretty long and I don’t have the time for it right now.


Edit: These are the cables Linus used https://www.corning.com/optical-cables-by-corning/worldwide/en/products/thunderbolt-optical-cables.html

Edit 2: Think looks like the Thunderbolt Hub used https://www.elgato.com/en/dock/thunderbolt-3

Edit 3: This looks like the Thunderbolt Add in Card Linus Used(not sure though) https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboard-Accessories/ThunderboltEX-3/

in my opinion i say dont use a hub, they are big, i would recommend getting a anker usb hub and mini display port to hdmi like these, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E3SWX6O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XMD7KPU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

i own both and theyve been working great for me, i use mt surface for school so i can just take these 2 and would be fine.

It might be! I will say though I just got that powered USB3 hub recommended by people (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014ZQ07NE), and I went from having to split my headset and 2 sensors across my motherboards USB2 and a 5-port Inateck USB3 PCI-E card to now having my headset and 2 sensors plugged into the hub, and the hub itself is plugged into the Inateck, and everything works great. I think it really just depends on people's particular setups/motherboards/USB.

edit: Actually I just double checked. I have a single sensor and the headset plugged into the hub, which is plugged into the Inateck, and my second sensor is also plugged into the Inateck. Before that powered hub, I wasn't able to have all three plugged into the Inateck itself without errors. So in my particular case, it definitely seems like it was a power issue.

I've been using https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0095EFXMC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and the online experience has been pretty flawless on it. I wish the wireless connection was stronger without it, I can be right next to the router and only get 2 bars.

Hello everyone!

I've seen a couple floating bed on /r/DIY but I decided to design my own with a slightly more "modern" look. I'm currently also looking into how to bind my LEDs to my Phillips Hue if anyone has anyone ideas. I hope you all enjoy it!

Here is the TinkerCAD I Designed first.

https://tinkercad.com/things/aEEaStpYiFE

And here are some of the things I got off Amazon for the bed.

RGB LED Strip.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUSLOSQ

USB Charging Hubs

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQFGH80

If you want more than 10 ports, each running at 2.1A, something like that exists. But it costs $800. The cheapest you'll likely find is around $200. Needing 2.1A per port brings you into the range of devices used by schools to charge their fleets of iPads. If you can make do with a dedicated "charge port" on a USB hub (you can still sync the iPad over Wi-Fi), then you can get away for much less.

You could daisy chain two 10-port hubs together and get 17 usable ports for data (and 2 for charging). I've had good luck with the Anker "10"-port hub.

A powered USB hub may work (despite not being recommended). I would not use any of the other ports on the hub while using the display to avoid bandwidth issues. If you do get the one I linked below, plug the monitor into one of the PowerIQ ports and it should charge. There might be smaller powered USB hubs, but the key is to find one that supports 2A per USB port to get the monitor to charge.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerIQ-Charging-MacBook-Surface/dp/B00VDVCQ84/

Edit: I have the MB16AC model and it works perfectly fine with my Surface Pro 4.

Lots of good suggestions here. Just make sure you also get him a powered USB hub. It can't handle having more than two devices hooked up to it. I bought this one:Amazon Basics USB 3.0 Powered USB Hub It works great, and it gives the ability to hook quite a few more devices to the B+ model.

Is there a product like this but meant for external hard drives? It would be more vertical and be able to run multiple at once.

I currently have a 7 port Anker USB hub that I have 4 external drives on at any time (From multiple film projects). I'd just like something similar to a CD shelf where I can stack them vertically, and if it's also a docking station, all the better! Even a small wire rack would work, as long as the drives fit.

Are you sure there's not even one USB port at all? They should be on pretty much every computer you can possibly buy nowadays. If there's even one, you can use a USB hub.

Anyway, there are things that pretty much fit into the second option you described above. They're called wireless USB hubs; here's an example of one. You plug in a few USBs into them (or just one), and you can access those USBs through your wifi internet.

I have this: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ultra-Slim-4-Port-Data/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1485886393&sr=1-4&keywords=usb+3+hub and it is the best hub I have ever used.

Oops, didn't see it had to be powered, even though mine works fine for my WD external drives. Carry on.

I originally did this install back in the day when these were first popping up and down, major credit goes to /u/zedix as I'm pretty sure he was the first one on Nasioc to start this whole trend for Subarus.

My first installation used a head unit that was tucked away behind everything. However the weak pre-amp, and the constant loss of settings (disconnecting battery), and lack on Steering Wheel controls really got annoying. So I set out on this Version 2 project.

*96svx.dc - David was an amazing resource with getting the required harnesses for an 08+, as my car came with a 24pin + 12pin adapter (premium nav) it was very hard to find 2 reverse harnesses that would make this install doable.**

• 2012 Nexus 7 - 1st gen
  
• Timur's USB ROM - in FI mode
  
• Typical Apps...
  
  
• Joycon CPJexr(CarPc Joycon Exr), converts steering wheel input into Keyboard strokes recognizable by the tablet. LINK
  
• Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 - 300watt amp with Molex input/output LINK
  
• USB Dual 80mm Fans with protective grill - LINK
  
• 3.5mm inline to RCA (dual channel) - LINK
  
• FiiO E10 USB DAC LINK
  
• Amazon USB hubs, cheap and easy to hack into - LINK
  
• Monoprice USB Extension Cables - LINK
  
• SanDisk Cruzer Fit 32GB - Stores Music - LINK
  
• Monoprice Micro USB OTG Adapter - LINK
  
• USB Y-Power adapter
  
• JDM 2-tone AV panel
  
• 12v to 5v DC/DC converters (You will need a couple of these, as they are from China they might be DoA)
  
• Other various adapters, and 14 ga wire for all of this to work..
  
  I created a double din sized Acrylic box from 1/4" sheets cut to size by a local shop... Here are the outer dimensions if you are interested in making a similar box to hold all of this.
  
  
• [OD] - 4" x 7" x 5.75"
  
• [x 1] - 4" x 7"
  
• [x 2] - 6.5" x 5.5"
  
• [x 2] - 4" x 5.5"
  
  Hardest part out of the whole install was coming up with the wiring scheme, as all of this is fed off of 12v ignition. The tablet needed to be able to charge, and the USB hub needed to receive power separate from the OTG y-splitter. I simply spliced into the cheap-o USB hubs and made my own DIY 5v USB hubs.
  
  
  
  
  

I specifically meant a hub like this as that's what I use with my 10foot extension, but I like the cable in your link (nice and clean setup), that should work as well.

Best Buy, Fry's, Microcenter, Walmart would all sell powered USB hubs. I use a few of these around my house. Cheap, effective, safe.

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464915641&sr=8-1&keywords=amazonbasics+usb+hub

for what its worth i had a horrible time trying PCI cards on my older pc, I went through two and one card just didn't have any USB ports work and the other was very flaky with the ports.

I eventually changed PCs (time to upgrade) but even still didn't have enough USB3 ports for everything, I switched to a 10 port USB external hub hooked into one of my USB3 ports and everything is working much better. Both my Rift sensors are plugged into the Anker hub as is my xbox one elite wireless dongle, webcam, and a backup hard drive. I know people will say a PCI-e card will be better/faster than a external USB hub but at this point I am just happy to not have constant errors and fighting driver issues. One of the ports is a charging port too (top one) and I use it for my phone.

https://smile.amazon.com/Upgraded-Anker-SuperSpeed-Including-Charging/dp/B005NGQWL2

^ thats obviously USA but I think that 10 port hub is pretty commonly sold everywhere.

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-2-Port-Switch-Cables-GCS22U/dp/B001D1UTC4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465833952&sr=1-1&keywords=kvm&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A5060496011
+
https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-26957-Female-Adapter/dp/B00006HSM2/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465834108&sr=1-7&keywords=dvi+to+vga
+
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465834146&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+hum
=KVM switch with 5 switched USB ports by pressing 1 button that works with DVI monitor output.

The best arduino solution I can come up with will require you to wire up like 30 fets, and will probably not be more elegant than a commercial solution.

Okay, great! This powered hub is recommended: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192LPK5M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A294P4X9EWVXLJ&psc=1

To power it, "any" USB battery pack should work. You plug the power input side of the hub into your battery pack, then your phone connects to the "computer" side of the hub, and your Rev hub + camera plug into the other side of the USB hub. Like this: https://imgur.com/a/DiaFQcQ

​

Setting all this aside, let's say your phone camera can only see two of the field minerals. Can you deduce the third?

If you just need to charge your phones, use this Anker USB charger. Otherwise, if you wanted to connect your phones to your computer and still charge them, I would use this Amazon Basics USB hub. I have three of the Amazon hubs, one on my computer for just regular USB devices, one for my farm and one for my brother's farm. I also recently used the Anker charger to set up a farm for my brother-in-law at his house. Look at the power requirements of your phones before you buy one or the other. Lower-end devices, like the Hydros, Galaxy Rush, or the LG Fuel, will work fine on the hub. If you got higher-end devices, like the Moto G, you would be better with the Anker charger.

I have not tested this, but I would imagine something like this USB port should work.

Luckily these are fairly inexpensive so i would think it's worth a shot.

Seems like a lot of negative thoughts on these. I just got a set 3 weeks ago and I absolutely love them. Completely changed by gaming experience, I've had no issues with the software (which is the same one I use for my G502 mouse and G11 KB), and I am very happy with it. I hooked the dongle up to one of these so I can just hit the button to rapidly switch between headphone audio and speakers. I love them... just don't wear them in public, they look huge and ridiculous, basically gaming only.

1. SDCard reader/writer - In order to write OS images onto the SDcard you'll need a writer on a PC to copy any software onto the SDcard before moving it to the Pi to boot.
   
2. USB Power supply - The Pi Zero has low demands on power (random USB chargers may work) but it's a good idea to get a good power supply.
   
3. USB OTG adapter - The Pi0 only has one micro-USB port (the other one is power in only). If you want to plug a normal USB device in you'll need an adapter.
   
4. USB Hub - Since the Pi0 only has one USB port you'll need a USB 2.0 hub to plug in multiple USB devices, such as a keyboard, mouse and USB network dongle. If you plan on plugging in USB devices that need more power (like external USB harddrives) then you should get a powered USB hub.
   
5. USB Network Adapter - Speaking of which, if you want Internet on the Pi0 you'll need a USB Wifi adapter or a 100M Ethernet USB adapter.
   
   
   Or alternatively, you could use the Pi Zero's OTG Ethernet Gadget capabilities to connect your Pi0 directly to a PC/Mac using only a single USB cable: https://gist.github.com/gbaman/975e2db164b3ca2b51ae11e45e8fd40a
   

I don't use a Case or a Sleeve so I can't comment on that, But for a USB port I use this Amazon USB 3.0 Powered Hub. I also have a StarTech Gigabit network Adapter that works Great! I've tried several different External Controllers(I assume you mean Game Controllers) and the best I've found is my PS4 Controller. It connects to the SP3 and works with out any real setup. I also Purchased this last night to carry it in (it wont be in for a few days so I can't comment on the quality) STM Alley Small

I'm surprised that this configuration (using an unpowered USB hub) is working for you. Given that powered USB hubs are now legal on the robot for this specific reason, to be safe I'd recommend getting a hub like this one instead, along with any USB battery pack. Then you can power the hub from the USB battery pack to ensure the webcam can draw sufficient power (my understanding was that in your configuration with the phone alone powering the webcam this didn't reliably happen).

While true in theory, for my own use it doesn't apply because I don't need it for anything other than this specific usage. On top of that, I like things to be neat, and hiding the USB hub wouldn't work too well in my setup, much less having the extra power plug/wire to deal with.

It's just a small annoyance and I'll probably end up getting it anyway, but I've definitely been finding it to be one of the few gripes I have with the PS4 (#1 being no support for the official Bluetooth headset from PS3, despite the wireless chip in the PS4 having the ability to function exactly the same as its predecessor).

Items used:

Battery SAE Connector $6
SEA connection that has 4 plugs. If I need to hook up a battery charger or air compressor it's nice.

USB Power $10 I used one for the phone itself and one for the hub, however you only need one. I just didnt not want the amplifier taking power away from charging the phone. Redundancy is nice too. Extra USB ports for whatever.

USB Hub $7 For all the gadgets.

USB Phone Power Cable $5 This is the real weak point in the setup. I've gone through a lot of these. monoprice.com is good for really cheap cords.

[Phone Audio output(between phone and amplifier)] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F9KUF7O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
$7 Quality cord here. Purchased for the right angle plug.

[Amplifier]( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HJWWW8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $28
Amplifier output connection: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00007FGU7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) $30 After not being able to hear very well with no amplifier, this greatly improved the experience.

Helmet coil cord $5 With this cord you never know the cord is there until you get off the bike and it will break away.

Helmet speakers: $10 I found a great deal on ebay for some "hoodie" speakers and I epoxied them in the helmet. You could always use this setup with earbuds too, but I was never fond of getting them pulled out while riding.

Phone mount $35 I would trust it will an $800 phone.

Total Cost w/ Phone Mount: $ 115

like this one ? HooToo Shuttle dunno whether it works but looks good and the ratings look good too

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=32QE84U3BGH8E&coliid=I22TCQNNM555TU&psc=1

I was looking in the same issue of having a usb that is both externally powered and usb powered. i know its amazon brand but if this works out well, then this might be the best one for the price.

This is the exact one I have: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E6GX4BG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had it already and it worked fine for what I needed. I think pretty much any USB 3 hub should work (maybe somebody else knows for sure?). FYI - Hubs only support peripherals, not hard drives for expansion.

Is passthrough charging possible at all while also acting as a USB host (like for a flash drive or gamepad)? I see this done all the time on USB-C laptops, but I can't find any accessories that support this on the 6P or 5X.

Some examples:

• dodocool USB-C hub with charging port: This works fine on XPS 13 and Chromebook Pixel laptops, but on Nexus phones, Android prompts me to either charge itself (can't use USB ports) or power the connected device (USB ports work but can't charge). I believe the problem here is that the hub doesn't actually power the USB ports by itself, unlike normal powered hubs, which the Nexus can't handle.
  
• Plugable USB-C Docking Station: This works great with XPS/Pixel laptops. It can fast charge my Nexus phones on the host port, but the USB and Ethernet ports don't work at all. I know the HDMI port can't work because Nexuses don't support USB Alternate Mode.
  
• Anker Powered USB Hub: I wish there was something like this that connects to and charges a USB-C host.
  
• Superbook Kickstarter: This claims to be able to charge USB-C phones while using the USB OTG, but it's only a Kickstarter right now so I have no idea if this will actually be possible.
  
  Basically, no matter what accessory I use, the "lsusb" terminal command returns nothing when my phone is charging. I've tried both stock Android and Cyanogenmod 13, but not the Nougat preview.

Had same issue setting up third sensor and even after I did after much fiddling I had lag and stuttering in vr. My rift is using a gaming laptop so ymmv, but my tracking setup and issue was 100% resolved by adding an anker 7 port powered usb hub and moving the headset and two sensors to the hub. Roomscale tracking is now nearly perfect. You could also add a powered PCIE usb card in a tower with good results. Search this sub and you will see it is nearly always a usb power issue with adding that third sensor.

One more thing, stand at a diagonal angle when in oculus sensor setup as all three sensors need to see the touch.

Here is the hub I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014ZQ07NE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

don't know much about 8920 model because it will be delivered tomorrow, lol.

Why don't you get a usb port with a power adapter. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VDVCQ84

i used this one for two years. working pretty well. charging all kinds of devices from the port like mouse, iphone and wireless earbuds.

The following works with the HMD+ with none of the audio screeching I had on the original Samsung. I have 20 hours VR play since the headset arrived from Microsoft last Friday.

Gigabyte X99 G1 USB 3.0 port to:
Cable Matters Active USB 3.0 Extension Cable (USB 3 Extension Cable/USB Extension Cable Male to Female) 16.4 Feet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to
Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs included 5V/2.5A power adapter (HB-UMP3)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPMEOYM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to Odyssey HMD+.

Nvidia 980 HDMI Port
to
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to Odyssey HMD+

Good thing because the one the other poster suggested wouldn't have worked for a Surface Pro device - that one is specific to the Surface 3 (non-Pro).

As far as USB hubs go, the problem with wanting to run an external drive via a USB hub is that the hub itself typically has to be powered, reducing its portability. It might be easier for you to use a Bluetooth-enabled mouse like Logitech MX Anywhere or Surface Arc Mouse or Razer Artheris - basically any wireless mouse that doesn't depend on a dongle to work.

If portability doesn't matter to you, then maybe AmazonBasics 4 Port Hub would work. It's cheap, powered and has tons of positive reviews.

I have this one and it's awesome. I've also heard really good things about this one, recommended by WireCutter.

Yes, but I just googled a bit.
It seems like the Nintendo Switch supports USB Hubs, meaning you could just buy any USB hub and if it doesn't work you could always send it back. Just do it through Amazon.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1539641683&sr=8-7&keywords=usb+hub

I'm using this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y5N3YCD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 on my X1C5 on the USBC/Thunderbolt port and it works perfectly. It is limited though in that it does not do multiple monitors it only does one. But for my use case Monitor, Keyboard, mouse and power it was perfect. Oh yes it supplies power to your laptop and I just plug my normal power supply into the doc which then feeds the laptop.

Forgot to add I have plugged it in and out while power is on with out issues with Linux. Sorry I have not tried windows so not sure if it will work under windows.

Hey all,

I'm currently using a ModTable desk from Multitable. It's an adjustable sit-to-stand desk that has you bring-your-own-tabletop. It accepts a varying size of tabletop too.

After using an IKEA $15 top for a year, I'm looking to change. I want something that's more custom to my needs.

Tools I have to work with: Fortunately I have access to a well stocked, communal woodshop. Drill press, SawStop, jointer, planer, drum sander, spindle sander, belt sander, and more.

Dimensions I'm looking to end up with: ~59-60" x 30-36" x 1.25-1.5"

Features: Cable management grommets, embedded 3.5mm jack for audio (using female-to-female adapter that i have), and embedded USB hub (of which I have this one)


What I know: Not much. I know how to square blocks of wood using combination of planer/drum sander, jointer, and table saw. I know and have access to hole saw bits for the grommets. Other than that, I'm green.

Not sure the best process to join however many pieces it'll take to equal the depth of the tabletop, how to do and make the embedded parts look good, stain/coat/finish, etc. Looking for advice for that. :)

USB-C or USB 3? I can't think of any audio interfaces that use USB-C (correct me if I"m wrong here), and most MIDI to USB adapters I've seen also don't use USB-C.

Actually looking at the specs for the macbook pro and holy god there's literally only 2 ports and they're both USB-C that's so awful. Like I said, most MIDI-to-USB adapters and audio interfaces use USB type A plugs, so you'll need an adapter or a hub anyway to be able to use them (might as well get both in one, imo).

If you get a USB C to USB hub, it would be USB 3 to USB 3, so they should all have the same speed (I think there are sometimes issues of having enough power to send to everything but don't quote me on that and as long as you don't have like 10 things plugged in you're fine).

Another option would be to get an interface with built-in MIDI support but tbh you'll probably need the hub anyways if you plan to do more than 2 things at a time ever.

(If you're not sure where to look, Amazon Basics has a Type C to Type A hub that's USB 3.1, or Anker makes a cheaper one that's got great reviews)

Here's a $10 hub. There were several for that price when I just searched "USB 3 hub".

As for steaming size, compression is a must. But if you can run a 1080p webcam on USB 2.0, you can certainly run 3 on a 3.0 line. And since they're only sending back infrared point data, they can send back simple monochrome data as well.

The vive obviously wins in terms of practicality this generation. But I do believe that a camera system is inherently more flexible, and that it's where the industry will trend to over time.

Thanks a lot for your response.

when you say "powered" do you mean something like that https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80 ?

When you say "better" do you refer to something like Schiit Bifrost?

What part of the specs is responsible for that noise? I assume it is not "noise floor"? Would something like that even show up in specs?

----
After spending 30min obsessively clicking through Spotify audio library I also realized that intensity of white noise varies from track to track. So I might be actually having two issues..

• recording quality. The "tone"/"volume" of the noise is changing from one recording to another. I never realized that could be an issue :\
  
• cheaper dac.. (I hear it even on the latest David Bowie album, so it is not just due to age/quality of recordings).
  
  ----
  My current MDR-7506 have 63 Ohms impedance, so I was concern that there
  won't be much difference between my current headphones and 80-ohm version of DT 770.. I guess another learning that I should stop buying audio equipment online without listening to it first :)
  
  PS the actual set up I have in front of me is fulla 2 (works in DAC only mode) + magni 3 (I assume I should have gotten Modi, instead of fulla, but it is a whole different issue. I am now trying to figure out whether there is any meaningful difference between modi and fulla).
  

That looks pretty decent, could probably pull a smaller USB hub (AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Ultra-Mini Hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QBGpybQPBST99) and pick him up an additional item.

If not, those three still look pretty good and would be applicable to a wide range of projects.

Found this one, think that's the move... Unless you know of one that integrates HDMI for not much more (yes, my monitor has two inputs, but I'd rather just hit one button, for... elegance purposes). Thanks!

How long is your extension?

I have tried multiple extensions and ran into issues with them all. Tried a 15ft active usb3, 15ft non active usb 3, 10ft non active usb3, 6ft non active usb3 and 3 ft non active usb3. All of these failed and had some issues. Either I would have issues with audio being choppy or tracking failing.

The solution to all of my issues and what let me use a 6ft usb was using a powered hub. I picked up one of these to extend the usb. I was also able to use a vive hub for the same thing.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B9996LA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works great! Only thing I wish it has was a backlight. You can use the media buttons and touchpad. Just familiarize yourself with the keyboard controls. Very long lasting rechargeable battery. Works out of the box.

Edit - It also works fine with Ouya apps when you need to type text. Pick up one of these USB hubs if you don't have one. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003M0NURK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would be curious if third party USBC docks are locked out. I would love to be able to get one of those portable docks the size of a portable USB power brick and use it on the go. For example using this

I have this hub. I just checked with it and nothing is different. I just tried all combinations. Hub plugged into a 3.1 port on my mobo and the rift plugged into both the charging port as well as the rift plugged into any other port. Hub plugged into the 3.0 port on my renesas extension and the rift plugged into both the charging port as well as it plugged into any other port. No difference.

​

I guess one of my last options is to get an inatek port. Hoping best buy is open tomorrow and they have one.

My current best solution seems to be something like this:

Leave the Windows desktop plugged into monitors via DVI.

Two of these: Mini-DisplayPort to DisplayPort cables (from mac to monitors).

One of these: 2x4 USB Switch

That should let me run the two monitors and use their input selection to go between Mac and PC. The switch should let me just go back and forth with the KB&M.

I've been using THIS for just over a year with zero issues. Works like a charm. Amazing for being so low-cost.

Are they powered separately? (with their own power adapters?)

I'd go with the powered USB 3.0 hub Link

If they are portable drives, you'll need more power, something like this: Link or this Link

Hope that helps :)

It seems to have mPCIE, with its wireless card.

If you plan on using an eGPU, make sure you have some sort of Ethernet. Dell sells power banks for it but I’m not sure if they have Ethernet.

Good luck.

Edit: USB 3.0 to Gigabit Ethernet adapter here https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-USB31000S-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network/dp/B0095EFXMC

Need help :) [HubUSB & Wifi]

Hey guys, now that it's christmas I've been thinking of buying
an Hub USB (because my laptop only have 2 usb ports 3.0).

So I was thinking of buying this one ->
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ultra-Slim-4-Port-Data/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1481335324&sr=8-14&keywords=anker+usb

But some people said that it "disables" 2.4GhzWifi because the 3.0usb thingy. So I wanted to now if that could happen =)

Assuming you want future 4k60hz support...

With USB-C, the ideal video out is DisplayPort Alternate Mode -> DPP to HDMI adapter.

Everything else is going to be over the USB bus and up to the OS to support, and a requirement for 20v power delivery at at least 2.5 amps

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B06Y5N3YCD something like this, plus an hdmi adapter.

If you only need 1080p/4k30hz, there's a ton of generic breakout boxes.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-USB-Multiport-Adapter-Ethernet/dp/B071S1XTVR/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522689187&sr=1-11&keywords=usb-c+hdmi+gigabit

I am actually reusing an old 7 port insigna hub I bought from bestbuy a few years ago but this 4 port hub from amazon looks good. when looking for a powered hub make sure it comes with an AC adapter

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00DQFGH80/?coliid=I117EH3HJBXNA2&colid=H4GY1FTC823D&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

This is a simplified explanation so please don't flame me.

Most USB controllers only provide 100ma of total power. You may have 12 USB ports but only 2 USB controllers. So if you have 12 ports with 6 ports on each controller you have 6 ports sharing 100ma of power across all 6 ports.

I don't remember the specific draw but the RS cable pulls pretty close to the full 100ma when active. (Does anyone know what the actual draw is?) If you have anything else plugged into the controller then you don't have enough power to push the cable, leading to the yellow shield error of doom.

This is where the powered USB hub comes into play.
I use this (not a referral just stating my equipment)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014ZQ07NE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

to power my multitude of USB devices and have never had a problem. Good hunting.

This situation is different for everyone but for me the transition wasn't bad. For the monitor in my room I bought an HDMI to USB C cable so there's no need for an adapter. For the cases where I need an adapter for USB 3 to C, I bought two of these. They also have a bunch of flash drives that have USB C on one end and 3 on the other. If you think you'll need more than this you can just get a hub like this one and keep it in your backpack.

I rarely find myself using these though and the new version of Xcode allows me to upload apps to my phone wirelessly which helps.

I've had great luck with the Anker brand USB hubs. There's a couple different versions, the one I linked is the 7 port one. I've personally used this one and their 14 port hub. Both have been solid for me, and I run far too many peripherals off a single hub :P.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-7-Port-Adapter-Charging-iPhone/dp/B014ZQ07NE

What I'm expecting is a USB-C port on the bottom of the Switch tablet and a USB-C power adapter included in the box.

The dock itself will have a USB-C male port facing upwards that goes into the tablet when the tablet is slid into the dock and the dock will also have a USB-C female port on the back that the charger is plugged into.

The dock will also have an HDMI output port on the back, two USB ports on the side, and possibly two more USB ports on the back. The single USB-C connector on the tablet can provide for all that as USB-C can simultaneously do video output, charging, and USB connectivity too. The dock will need some simple electronics in it like a USB hub and maybe something for the video.

When you're on the go, you can unplug the AC adapter from the dock and take it with you to plug directly into the Switch's USB-C port to charge it. If we're lucky, Nintendo will use a very standard implementation of USB-C which would allow someone to use a dongle like this for traveling.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerIQ-Charging-Macbook-Surface/dp/B00VDVCQ84/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&ref_=psdcmw_281413_t2_B06XGCZB7M

extremely good deal right there. super solid hub.

Yes, this product is not what you are looking for. This hub has a unique feature that you can power on/off individual ports, but for PSC you need a hub that is externally powered (it comes with an adapter).

Your best bet is to get a USB 2.0 powered hub (usually with a 5V 2A adapter). USB 3.0 powered hubs can be expensive, and PSC can't utilize them fully.

There is a version of this product with an external power adapter:

• https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-Included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM

I am using a powered USB 2.0 hub connected to the USB 2.0 port. You gain 4 powered 2.0 ports with this configuration, which does help out since the Odroid Doesn’t give too much power. Things I hook up here are like all my WiFi and Bluetooth dongles. I do use USB 3.0 extenders on the front of the cabinet to hook up other accessories without having to get in the cabinet.

AmazonBasics 7 Port USB 2.0 Hub with 5V/4A Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGJR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8er5BbDT6HMG4

USB 3.0 Mount Cable –USB Extension Flush, Dash, Panel Mount Cable, for Car, Boat, Motorcycle and More (6.6FT/2M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079LGRQQD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gir5Bb74AS0F3

This should be ok:

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGJR4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1412334820&sr=1-1&keywords=powered+usb+hub

Edit: Why is it so difficult to find a 4 port powered USB-Hub on Amazon US? In Germany it is much easier to find something like that

Sorry for the late reply - I ordered Left/Right, though I think Up/Up might've been better. In any event, I just recycled a small USB hub I had lying around (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JX1ZS5O), and it worked just fine for both power and storage. I figure I would have to use a hub at some point, since the DVR memory supposedly requires that you connect it directly to the port. I... personally don't see why this is required from a technical point of view, so I can only presume it must be a disclaimer, since they don't want to get in the business of certifying extension cords and hubs.

I hope they announce some details about the memory capacity requirements for the DVR, as that would help me pick out what type of memory to purchase -- in the meantime, I'll just throw a 128GB on it for now and see how far that gets me... Uhh, once I get v9, of course. :)

I use this 4 port USB 3.1 hub. Works great. I have passenger phone cable, dashcam USB, and music USB on it with one available port. I also like that the buttons allow you to turn off each port individually https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JX1ZS5O

Ok, ok awesome then. I'll get this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Multiport-DisplayPort-Ethernet/dp/B06Y5N3YCD/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

These ones from Startech are actually properly good: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B0095EFXMC

And cheap! :)

Just make sure you have a USB 3.0 port.

I quite like this Anker USB C hub. It provides an ethernet port which is 10/100/1000, and was able to handle the 1000mbps I have coming in at home with no issues whatsoever.

USB 3.0 ports are as fast as ever, especially because the hub is hooked up to the Thunderbolt 3 port. The HDMI port is nice to have as well.

I've also had luck using a regular USB 3.0 hub and the Apple branded USB C to USB dongle.

This is the one I'm using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K7C53K2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just bought a Cable Matters USB C Printer Cable (USB C to USB B/USB-C to Printer) in Black 6.6 Feet from amazon. I was hoping connecting it directly from the amp to the Macbook could make it work. Yeah. I made sure that the input for the mic was selected in system preferences/ Audio and in voice recorder. How do you have your's setup?

Probably closer to 10 to 15 bucks for a powered usb hub. A non powered hub powers itself and all attached devices using the power from the USB port on the PC. A powered hub has a dedicated power input and provides its own power for itself and all attached devices.

An Xbox 360 wired controller looks to be listed as around .48A, and a standard USB2 port is usually rated for .5A total draw. USB 3 I believe is .9A, so an non powered hub may not get you four working controllers.

Something like this should be a safe choice for you:
AmazonBasics 4 Port USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BK1nybA3V46AS

Hey, I had a similar issue on my desktop. I narrowed it down to insufficient power from having all my sensors and the headset plugged into a single section of USBs. I bought this - Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra-Slim... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0192LPK5M?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
This allowed me to connect a hub, AND more importantly add power through a micro USB and phone charger (included)
Hope it helps!

I've noticed that I can only use my wireless adapter in certain USB ports otherwise it'll constantly disconnect. I think it has to do with a power issue as it solved itself as soon as I got a powered USB hub.

And before anyone assumes I was using an unpowered USB hub I was using one of my mobo's USB 3.0 ports. I even tried my monitors USB port and it still would constantly disconnect. Now that I'm running a powered USB hub through my monitor's USB port everything works great.

I'm using this in case anyone was wondering. http://amzn.com/B00VDVCQ84

I have the five port version of this sitting on my desk. After several years of daily active use and unplugging/plugging, the data port died, but it works OK as a charger, so it remains present.

I would go with your co-workers recommendation Mainly because being able to flip power out at a switch as opposed to plugging/unplugging can be useful.

I used the following to help with all of my USB devices.

AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female - 6 Feet (2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014RWATK2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_LbPhybMRCMK74

Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs included 5V/2.5A power adapter (HB-UMP3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_RcPhybTS87SPS

The rest of the wires were of adequate length, since I hung the pc behind my desk. I did cover the lose wires with these sleeves to help keep them more organized.

Cable Management Sleeve, JOTO Cord Management System for TV / Computer / Home Entertainment, 19 - 20 inch Flexible Cable Sleeve Wrap Cover Organizer, 4 Piece - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015HWXG4M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_8dPhybG1G8XTW

So the reason this is needed is SteamVR gets confused when two headsets are plugged in at the same time...

These are the exact two bits I ordered:

https://www.amazon.com/Bi-direction-Manual-Switch-Passthrough-Supports-DotStone/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510945708&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+switcher&dpID=51NuwF1AMCL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510945749&sr=1-5&keywords=powered+3.0+hub

But any bi-directional HDMI switch, and any powered USB 3.0 hub that lets you turn on and off connections should work.

I tried plugging my two Rift cameras into the hub but Oculus software was spitting out "Poor Communication" issues, so those have dedicated ports into the mobo (and it's OK to leave them connected while using the Vive)

This will make QA across platforms a lot easier :D

You would do very well with the Acer Aspire V7. It has an i5-4500U, 8GB RAM, 500GB HDD, Nvidia GT 750M graphics and a 14" 1080p touch display.

It also weighs 4.4lbs and gets up to 8 hours of battery life. It would be ideal for moving back and forth. It does not, however, have an ethernet port, but that is easily remedied by a USB to RJ-45 Adapter.

I got a usb hub. Was skeptic at first.. but I like it.
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ultra-Slim-4-Port-Data/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484075936&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=usb+hub&psc=1

The only issue, the usb cable is too short. I got an extension cable for $2.

I have the VR unit plugged into, the two moves controller and one cable for the PS controller. Leaving one usb port on the console free.

Maybe this? It's a little expensive, but should work fine. If you want to look for others, I would recommend looking for Macbook Pro hubs, as the new one only has usb c ports and you are likely to find some hubs that allow for usb input and charging.

Another option is the HooToo USB C Hub. It’s a lot cheaper that other recommendations but only has 3USBs, 1SDXC, Charge Passthru, and HDMI capable of 4K output. It works good for me so I suggest u check it out. It’s around $40 usually but is sometimes on sale.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K7C53K2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Py2nc39Ybfwzk

But maybe it's an illusion. like the hubs with the charging ports are rated higher because of those charging ports, and hubs with a lot of connections are also rated higher because they need more overall power to draw from all the USB connections. How do you exactly know that the specs on any of them are per port? Maybe all the USB's draw the same amount regardless of what power charger you're using? you have 4 ports.. added up is 3.6 AMPS.. Exactly what that best buy one is rated at.. Someone posted this one helped people with WMR.. what do u think
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1534041003&sr=1-3&keywords=powered+usb+hub&dpID=41Pnv5luccL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch#nav-search-keywords

Over bluetooth no, but there are solutions for USB over WiFi/network, however compatibility can be iffy due to incomplete driver support https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Wireless-Sharing-Station-GUWIP204/dp/B0058DN1Q4/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1487241279&sr=1-3&keywords=wireless+usb+sharing

Ones that work directly from USB in to USB out also existed, better compatibility, however they're really hard to find new now http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gefen-4-Port-USB-2-0-Wireless-Extender-/182341038042?hash=item2a745f6fda:g:knEAAOSwHMJYGqT1

I think it is more about power than the cabling...

Inatek USB card as noted below, which is available on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00PAFDW3M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or a Powered hub might work for you, it helped me though I already had it, but the PCI card is probably better:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or a shorter Amazon basics cable length perhaps? 6feet instead of 9?

Looking at all the products being listed, they all will mirror the image which wasn't your goal, correct? The Cable Creation will extend the screen on Windows 10, but it looks like it won't do that for MacBook Pros. The HooToo product will just mirror the screen, but will give you additional USB ports. The ORIE just does the same as the Cable Creation.

FWIW, I bought this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071G83L1J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works great on my iPad Pro and Macbook Pro. Provides HDMI, Ethernet and 3xUSB ports. Also matches my space grey coloring on both. Only $36 with coupon and Anker makes (IMHO) good quality stuff.

Could be the port. You could try something like this (not recommending a specific brand--there are lots of brands out there and you could probably pick one up at the local Best Buy):

https://www.amazon.com/USB-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B0095EFXMC

Keep your receipt if you decide to get one so you can return it if it doesn't fix the problem.

Thought about one of the AirConsole BLE units? Battery lasts a long time and no dongles needed.

I will concede that Modern-Day MBPs are #dongleLife. Just need to pick the right one. I’ve got an awesome one from Anker. 3x USB ports, a 4K HDMI and an Ethernet. It’s super small too.

If anyone wants to see: Anker USB C Hub, 5-in-1 Premium... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071G83L1J?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I only own 2 dongles - that one and a larger one that also does power delivery @100W for the desk at home.

Thanks for the info. I am infact using a USB hub for power. The exact model is linked below: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The 3 dedicated charge ports provide 2.1A of power so I assume that is enough juice for the drive/PSC to operate properly? Perhaps I need a higher source of power to resolve the stuttering?

Yes that's right. Make sure your using the 2.5amp power supply that comes with it, or higher drawing that much power it could cause slowdown issues.
There is this for example on amazon https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492717886&sr=8-1&keywords=amazon+basics+usb+hub
that won't draw much, but depending on what your doing you might want to invest in a USB hub that has it's own power supply. Always a better choice

I'm using this, but if you plug in more than two accessories, make sure your power supply can handle it. Like 2.5 volts.

**edit- I didn't see "space constrained" so this may be of no help.

AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Ultra-Mini Hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eIvvyb5KTCRRC

I’ve heard mixed reviews about the performance impact of doing so on a 2016, but I know it works.

I have a 2017 Macbook 12” and it works like a dream. I use this adapter. It’s the only one I found that supports power delivery + 4k @ 60hz, except for some of the larger hubs. Unfortunately your USB connectivity will be limited to USB 2.0 since most of the bandwidth will be consumed by the display.

Edit: just found a more minimal adapter by the same company. I think it is new so there are no reviews, but it may be a better solution if you don’t need USB or Ethernet at all.

Not sure what the Aurora R7 is capable of, but if "powershare" doesn't exist in the BIOS on the machine or if you don't have the power symbol next to one of the USB ports, you can also use a powered USB hub to do this. I did this with my Astros for a while prior to getting a machine with the capability to run the USB +5v while off.

This USB 3.0 hub is fairly cheap off Amazon and the one I used, just note that only ports 2, 3, and 4 will actually run power while the machine is off.

Edit: Found documentation here that says it's called "USB PowerShare (S4/S5)" in the advanced section of the BIOS settings. Make sure that's on. If there are particular ports it enables, it doesn't say this outright, but check for that lightning bolt symbol mentioned in another post. Since it's a desktop it may just power all ports while off with this setting.

I love my anker 10 port USB hub. Good build quality and not too expensive.

Edit: include link

I'm struggling with figuring out how to share a Bluetooth mouse between my two Macs, however I use this switch to share my mechanical keyboard. I just manage the wires, but I love it.

I don't know what they're called, but you can use a USB A/B switcher.

It's a USB dongle that plugs into both computers, and the keyboard and mouse goes into the dongle. Then you hit the button and it switches from computer A to computer B. I used to use something like this back in the day, but it would switch the monitor too, so you'd have one monitor, and one keyboard/mouse switching between 2 or more computers. I think you'd need an external monitor to have that work with the Macbook Pro and the iMac. But in your case it might be better to see both screens at the same time.

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Computer-Peripheral-Sharing-GUS402/dp/B00BD8I2OY

You can do this for Sentry if you don't mind some tinkering: https://github.com/marcone/teslausb/

​

I started using TeslaFi two days after I got my car, I wish I'd done that from the beginning. If you want to try it a referral code can double your trial period (to a month from two weeks, I believe).

​

This USB hub works great for all the stuff I have plugged in: https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU/

This one works great for me https://www.amazon.com/Inspira-Recharging-MacBook-Chromebook-Devices/dp/B01GKSPMCQ/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492816192&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=travel+inspiria+usb-c

I'm on linux, it does video, charging, ethernet keyboard, mouse all in one usb-c :)