Best products from r/simracing

What system you play on is beside the point. Let's see what we can plan out for you.

I'm basing this off of your other comment's projected budget, $500 - $1000.

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First and foremost, your wheel and pedals. Whether you start with your cockpit/wheelstand or wheel is mostly up to preference, but I'd start with a wheel first, since a wheel clamped to a desk with pedals on a floor is the minimum of simracing, whilst a rig with no wheel is just a glorified gaming seat. Plus, what you get first sets the budget of what comes after it, and I wouldn't prioritize an expensive rig over a good wheel.

Anyway, where you go from here pretty much depends on how much you're looking to spend. If your budget is $500 - $1000 and you're looking to get a whole setup going, I'd keep the wheel+pedal spending to $500 or less. This will leave you with a decent amount of wiggle room for rigs and accessories. All of the suggested wheels are compatible with Xbox One.

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Wheels and Pedals

• Thrustmaster TMX
  
  A budget wheel if there ever was one. It's by no means a bad wheel, for $200. It has reasonably strong FFB and similar build to its more expensive counterpart, the TX. Though with a brushed motor and belt-gear hybrid system, it's not as strong nor as smooth as the TX. As someone who's tried its PlayStation counterpart (the T150, basically the same base with a slightly different rim), I'd say it's 75% the quality for 50% the price. If you're on a strict budget and know you'll be on one for a while, it's a pretty good deal.
  
  ^(NOTE: As of writing this, it's currently on sale for $160!)
  
  
• Thrustmaster TMX Pro
  
  If you're planning to drive with an H-gate shifter in the future, then this version of the TMX is a good deal. Instead of the standard 2-pedal Thrustmaster set, it comes with Thrustmater's T3PA Pedals. On top of getting a clutch pedal, it includes a conical brake mod, designed to give more tension to your brake pedal and allow you to better control braking. Plus, in just about any wheel-supported Xbox One game you can map the brake to the clutch and put the conical brake mod behind it, giving your legs more room if you're not using an H-gate shifter. Though if you know you never want to use an H-gate, it might be better value to just get the standard TMX and use a DIY solution for modding the brake.
  
  
• Thrustmaster TX
  
  In case you're wondering, yes, it comes with Ferrari branding as standard. Anyway, this is arguably the best bang-for-your-buck. TX TX's rim is interchangeable, so if you're not a fan of the stock one, you can replace it with another Thrustmaster rim of your choosing. On top of that, its belt-driven FFB system is a bit stronger and considerably smoother than the TMX, not to mention that it's hard mountable (is able to be screwed-in to a rig instead of needing a clamp). While some get the TMX as a starter wheel and upgrade later, this wheel is often people's one-stop for sim racing, since it's just that good.
  
  ^(NOTE: You really picked the best time to get into sim racing, this wheel is only $257 as of writing this! $400 is a decent price for this wheel but the current price is an absolute steal.)
  
  
• Thrustmaster TX Leather Edition
  
  Similarly to the TMX, this is Thrustmaster's step-up version of the wheel; not only does it include a special black version of the T3PA pedals, it also includes a much better rim. While its style is more akin to the TMX, its rim is made from a metal frame, making it feel more solid than the TMX and standard TX plastic rims, and is wrapped in a nice leather instead of rubber. For only $67 more than the standard TX, it's a significant savings over buying the parts separately.
  
  
• Fanatec CSL Elite
  
  This is the premium class of wheels, for the most part. Fanatec's hardware is generally only built from the best of materials and offer some of the best performance, along with being open to Fanatec's wider, more advanced selection of parts and accessories. However, unlike most wheel bases, this is only the wheel base, no rim or pedals included. If you want Fanatec's base CSL offerings for a rim and pedals, the price jumps to about $470, the same price as the TX, but that's only with two pedals. If you want their 3-pedal base instead, the price jumps up to $590, and if you want a GT style rim instead, you're already over $600 with the 2-pedal set, $700 with the 3-pedal set. Fanatec's gear is top-quality, but it comes at a price. Is the bit of extra quality worth the prices that the parts quickly add up to? That's subjective. At the very least, I wouldn't recommend Fanatec Gear if you're on a budget, but maybe consider it for the future.
  
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  Rigs and More
  
  There are some Xbox One wheels for you to consider. I hope my explanations made sense, I wanted to make sure to convey the different aspects of each wheel so you could better make a decision.
  
  If you want my personal recommendation though, I'd say the TX, especially since it's on sale. $250 for that base is a great price, it's a near-perfect balance of budget with performance.
  
  Next on the list, a rig. If we're assuming that you're willing to reach towards the upper-end of your budget, then continuing here after you get your wheel is a no-brainer. Having a dedicated place to secure your wheel and mount your pedals makes for a far better experience than sitting at a table, especially if you're playing in front of a TV.
  
  Keep in mind that there are two types of rigs, wheel stands and cockpits. Wheelstands are only meant to mount your wheel and pedals, where you sit is up to you. They're designed to be foldable and easy to carry, making them perfect for playing in front of the living room TV or using in a small apartment. Dedicated cockpits take things to the next level, securing your seat to the wheel and pedals means that you won't have to worry about anything sliding around, and makes things more comfortable overall.
  
  As much as I want to continue though, there are many, many great options to choose from and reddit has a length limit on comments. For more information on building your rig, you can check out the r/Simracing Buyer's Guide in the wiki. It includes everything wheels and rigs to accessories and monitor mounts.
  
  Cheers, and let me know if you have any questions.

How much do you want to spend, and what are your priorities? Value? Performance? Authenticity and physical quality?

For $300-$400, the Thrustmaster TX or T300RS are the best on the market. The T300RS was recently on sale for $300, so you probably could find it soon again for that price. Both have the same base (T300RS is slightly revised), but the T300RS is Playstation branded and compatible, and has a wheel that many regard as superior to the stock TX Ferrari wheel. You can get a very similar replacement wheel for the TX for roughly ~$100. The T300RS is the wheel I'm planning on buying, and believe me, I did a lot of searching.

CS V2 costs $550 plus a wheel which will cost roughly $250-$350, plus shipping costs. You're looking at like $800-$900, two, to three times the cost of the TX/T300RS without taxes or shipping. Not to mention you need an invite.

The Fanatec Base and the Thrustmaster TX T300RS all have brushless servo motors and belt drives, and have that "Hall Effect" tech. T300RS has 1080 degrees of rotation which is more than the CSv2, but that's a minor point.

They are very close to the CSV2 mechanically. CSv2 has a higher quality fit and finish. Personally, I don't mind rubber on a wheel so the TX/T300RS are fine for me, and fit and finish isn't really noticeable while in a race, at least for me anyways, you're focusing on the car, not the wheel, lol. I don't even feel the wheel while in an intense race. The CSv2 may have a slight advantage mechanically, but I've done a lot of searching myself and folks who have owned both say the CSv2 is better, but it isn't twice as good as the TX/T300RS, despite its price, as the CSv2 costs 3x as much as a TX and 2x as much as a T300RS.

> "Clubsport feels better than the TX but it's not twice as good.... given the price difference. The TX is honestly a great base when you replace the standard rim.
> When I moved from G27 to TX the driving feel was dramatically improved. But switching from TX to Clubsport the best way to describe the feeling is its a more refined force feedback.
>
> My personal advice for TX owners... thinking about switching
>
> Step 1: Switch to clubsport V2 pedals
>
> Step 2: Replace standard rim with a real car wheel
>
> Step 3: Triple screens
>
> Step 4: Add Fanatec SQ shifter
>
> Step 5:- Only now "consider" buying clubsport base & rim
>
> As a TX owner you should know you have great wheel base with good force feedback."


> "I keep reading reviews from different people and basically yes the Clubsport equipment is definitely better looking and appears more substantial and built of superior materials (ie metal vs lots of plastic) but only a little better in performance.

> Even Darin Gangi stated more than once that when testing the Thrustmaster T3PA pedals they were getting same lap times as when using clubsport pedals. I guess you have to decide if look and feel is worth 2-3 times the price with little performance improvement."
(link)

TL;DR: For $300-$400 get a Thrustmaster Tx or T300RS. If you have an unlimited budget you can get a CSv2, but don't expect it to be 2 or 3x the wheel the Thrustmasters are...you're paying primarily for exclusivity and fit & finish. The CSv2 has the better build-quality no doubt, and if you want ultimate authenticity you could justify the cost, but at that point you're probably looking for an Accuforce anyways. But in terms of playability it's very close to the Thrustmasters.

I assume the wheel you have is a Driving Force GT. If it is, that's a pretty good wheel, and if you're okay with the gear-driven force feedback and the shitty pedals, you should be good for now. The next step up I would recommend the T300 Alcantara bundle, which is the best "bang for your buck" deal on the market currently.


For games, I have pretty much every sim on the market right now, barring RRRE and more niche stuff like those karting sims and whatnot. I switch between them several times a day, which doesn't really feel weird at all, since I have my wheel settings how I like them in each game.


If you're looking for competitive racing your 4 best options are easily iRacing, rFactor 2, Automobilista (my favourite all-round sim btw, get it regardless!), and rFactor. iRacing has already been talked about in this thread, but I've been getting back into it recently, and it's seriously the best on the market for competitive online racing. rFactor 2 is the best sim for leagues right now, since it's arguably the most realistic sim, and has the best support for mods online. Automobilista's not great for pick-up races, but I race in a GT3 league and I'm loving it. And rFactor has a ton of leagues for all sorts of cars still going strong, if you don't mind outdated graphics.
***

Since you asked someone else, I'll describe to you what I think about the "pick-up" nature of iRacing vs running a league.

Pick-up races: If you're in iRacing, most series run races every couple hours, which means you can race pretty much any time. Participation varies per series, but most series have healthy attendance most hours of the day. You don't get to know people quite as well, although if you race regularly in a series, you'll get to know some people eventually. I remember once, I joined a C Class race (NASCAR Trucks) with open setups, and there were like 10 guys in the race who knew eachother well, inside jokes and all.

Leagues: Leagues feel more like a real life racing series. You get to know your competitors; their personalities, abilities, and weaknesses*. Knowing your competitors well not only adds to the overall atmosphere of the series, since each race is important for your series standings, but allows for much more interesting races, since racers often play off of eachother's weaknesses. If you find a league that appeals to you, definitely give it a shot.

Hello OP!

From your post and comments, I've gathered that you only need 2 pedals, don't need an H-pattern shifter, and play on the Xbox platform.

Assuming you need your wheel + pedals shipped for $500 AUS, (that's $358 USD, plus shipping costs more for Australia), you actually don't have too many options at all.

If I were to rank all available racing wheels right now, the cheapest level would be the ones without force-feedback. This would include Thrustmaster's T80 and Ferrari 458 Spider Racing Wheel, as well as the Hori Apex. All of these wheels are complete shit, not to sound harsh.

LEVEL 1

The first level of wheels that are good are the ones with gear driven or gear/belt hybrid force feedback. This means that when motors turn the wheel to provide information about traction or oversteer (examples), it may feel "notchy" and loud. They still get the job done. When only listing ones compatible with the Xbox One, these include:

Logitech G29 ($400 AUS + free shipping) - has 3 pedals and comfortable grip, but very bad gear-driven force-feedback

Thrustmaster TMX ($240.83 AUS + $90.13 shipping = $320 AUS) - has 2 pedals, which you say is O.K. Has better force-feedback with a hybrid belt drive/gear driven combo. It is cheaper than Logitech because Logitech is so popular. Do not be fooled, this is an objectively better wheel in almost every way.

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LEVEL 2

The second level of wheels are the ones that are only belt-driven. These are much smoother quieter, and detailed than Level 1 wheels. When only listing ones compatible with the Xbox One, there is only one wheel base:

Thrustmaster TX Servo Base ($358.41 AUS + $58.30 shipping = $416 AUS)

However, the TX allows switching of wheel rims. You can buy the base by itself (above) and need to buy an individual wheel rim, or you can buy it in a set with pedals and a rim. The only option here seems to be getting a set, since buying the individual parts would be too costly. You've got two options here for a bundle:

Thrustmaster TX Racing Wheel Ferrari 458 Italia Edition ($559 AUS + free shipping)

Thrustmaster TX Racing Wheel Leather Edition Premium ($699.95 AUS + free shipping)

While both wheels are mechanically identical, I would have to recommend the Leather edition. It comes with a much higher quality wheel rim (leather and not rubber) and also has a much more durable pedal set (3 pedals with metal plates). Still, the Italia edition TX would be a good choice if you can't spend the extra money. It is better than the G29 and TMX.

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LEVEL 3

Since I saw you talking to some other users about the Fanatec CSL Elite, I might as well discuss these wheels despite it being outside your price range. The Level 3 wheels all use belt-drive systems as well, but are smoother, faster, and quieter than their Level 2 counterparts.

Fanatec Xbox One Competition Pack ($1,109.90 AUS + ??? shipping)

Thrustmaster TS-XW Racer Sparco P310 ($1,099 AUS + ??? shipping)

Both wheels cost around the same and are mechanically almost identical. However, the Thrustmaster has a nicer rim (in my opinion) and has 3 pedals. Still, you should decide this on your own.

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I hope this helped a great deal, and have fun with whatever wheel you choose! Cheers

it's a matter of price in the end, but here's my ramblings.

The Logitech path sets you back $300 for a complete set.

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Dual-Motor-Feedback-Driving-Responsive/dp/B016JBE8LU/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1539590704&sr=1-4&keywords=logitech%2Bg29&th=1

However, there's no upgrade path from there, and if you decide to eventually upgrade to another wheel, you'll need an adapter for both the pedals and the shifter. Additionally, the FFB is not as good as the T300RS or equivalent systems and the shifter is worse than the TH8A, and is 6+R, not 7+R.

The Thrustmaster equivalent would be a T300RS or TX System (they are apparently equivalent).
Including the Shifter, it sets you back about $550.

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Racing-Wheel-Leather-Premium-Official/dp/B0151K6FPC/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1539590463&sr=1-1&keywords=thrustmaster%2Btx&th=1

Comparing to the Logitech, the FFB is better. From what I've heard, the pedals are similar in quality.

I've used the G27 shifter and I own the TH8A and the thrustmaster is quite a bit better, and can be put in sequential mode as well. Additionally, it can be used as an analogue handbrake, which is pretty cool for the price. The shifter can also be connected by USB, so that's a component you'd be able to keep should you decide to upgrade in the future.

Also, Thrustmaster makes a variety of bases, some more high-end than what you're looking at, so you'd have an upgrade path without switching manufacturers and having to find a solution for pedals.

As for the TMX Pro, the wheel + the T3pa pedals + the shifter cost around $415. (look at the proposed sets)

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-racing-wheel-WINDOWS/dp/B01CI97DNM/ref=sr_1_3?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1539591097&sr=1-3&keywords=thrustmaster+tmx+pro

However, I would not buy the T3pa's separately. If you buy separate pedals, I'd go for the Fanatec CSL Elite Pedals with the Loadcell Brake. They are more expensive, but a lot better and have USB connectivity, should you switch manufacturers in the future.

https://www.fanatec.com/us-en/pedals/csl-elite-pedals-lc-usa.html


I hope I've not confused you too much.

In conclusion:

Logitech
-> Ok Force Feedback, Ok Pedals, Meh Shifter $300 | No Upgrade Path


T300 (VG TX) incl T3pa + TH8A
-> Good Force Feedback, Ok Pedals, Good Shifter $550 | Upgrade Path for Wheel base/Rims


TMX Pro + Fanatec CSL Elite LC + TH8A ->
Ok Force Feedback, Great Pedals, Good Shifter $550 | Upgrade Path unlimited, all separately connected via USB.

All that said, it depends a lot on how serious you want to get. If you already know that you're not going to go full sim-racing, the Logitech is going to be plenty good enough for you.

However, if you want to start sim-racing seriously, and are looking at games such as iRacing, RaceRoom, rFactor, pCars, Assetto Corsa and the like, good pedals make you quicker than good wheels

A couple of months ago I took the plunge and set up my own rig using an Obutto R3volution as the frame. It may be outside your budget, especially if you need to buy PC/monitors/wheel too, but I highly recommend it.

If you want to build it yourself then, as an alternative to wood, consider 80/20 aluminium framing - I've seen pictures of lots of rigs built out of that stuff.

If you want to run triple screens then there are some things to think about:

• Make sure you get a graphics card that's capable of driving 3 screens. Not only the physical connections, but the power to push around 3x as many pixels as usual.
  
• Monitors last for a long time (i.e. you rarely need to upgrade them) and you spend all your time staring at them, so don't skimp and buy cheap ones just to save a bit of cash - make sure you get something with a decent picture.
  
• For best results make sure all 3 screens are the same make & model.
  
• The price/performance/size sweet spot seems to be 27" screens.
  
• The narrower the bezel, the better.
  
• My budget choice, after plenty of research, was the BenQ GW2760HS. A clear picture, narrow bezels, VESA mounting, well known manufacturer and, best of all, a sensible price. It's only 60Hz and 1080p, but I don't find either of those to be an issue.
  
  When it comes to AMD vs Nvidia graphics cards - I have machines with both, and I find the AMD drivers more convenient for switching between normal (3 x 1920x1080) and Eyefinity/Surround (1 x 5760x1080) screen modes (which is something I do frequently). With the AMD software I can just create icons on my desktop to switch modes at the click of a mouse. With the Nvidia drivers it's a bit more fiddly. If I had to upgrade my graphics card I'd probably go with AMD again, because I like the convenience. YMMV.
  
  Regarding the sim racing itself, I highly recommend getting into iRacing (free 3 month trial here, I believe it still works despite the wording). It's the best multi-player racing you can get, IMO, and not as expensive as some people make it seem.
  
  Of course, once you've got all that set up and get into the racing, you'll realise it's just the first step. Then you'll be wanting button boxes, SimVibe with bass shakers, motion actuators, upgraded pedals & wheel ... it never ends. (But don't tell the wife!)
  

Cheap, or expensive, is relative. What budget do you have to work with? Basically, I would say in total for the rig, around $700-800 can get you something pretty decent, then you're looking for the actual console/PC and the games themselves as an additional price.

For a fairly cheap, but still best bang-for-buck rig, I would recommend:

• Any of the T300 + T3PA bundles, for example the T300 Ferrari Alcantara Edition - Great wheel, best entry level wheel by far. With decent pedals, optional brake mod included that, imo, improves the feel a lot. Clutch included.
  
  
• TH8A shifter - Fairly cheap, all things considered,
  
  
• Simetik K2 cockpit - Very sturdy and customizable for its price, and also doesn't have that annoying bar down the middle that basically inhibits you from heel-and-toe downshifting that most of the other cheap rigs have.
  
  All in all this comes down to $885 as of right now, if you want to save a little bit you could go for the original T300 GT Edition instead and it'll be $817.
  
  The Simetik K2 is by far the best rig you can get in that pricebracket, but if you must save some more either skip the shifter for now or get a Playseat Challenge, it isn't the sturdiest but again, I do not recommend getting a rig with the pole in between your legs, I would personally rather play at a desk and an office chair than that, as it, at least for me, makes it really hard to heel-and-toe, and I love racing old DTM and GT cars with manual gearboxes and couldn't do without that.

Computer:
PC is the way to go. Not sure about the AU market (I only speak freedom dollars), but $2,000 will buy you a really good PC. An 8700k or 9900k CPU, 16 or 32gb of ram and a 2080ti or 1080ti GPU will be enough to run anything well.

Software:
You’ll prob find Assetto Corsa has the biggest track selection. There’s a huge modding community that make add ons (both free and for purchase) for the game. It’ll take some tinkering with the mods, but the game will look really good for a few dollars.

For multiplayer racing, nothing beats iRacing IMO. I get so nervous lap 1 my legs shake. It costs way more than AC though, so if AC works for him, stay there. It looks like iRacing is paying attention to the Aussie market. They’re adding a new Gfinity Supercars eSeries in 2020: https://www.iracing.com/iracing-to-develop-two-new-australian-supercars/

Wheel/Pedals:
I have a G29 wheel with shifter and it works well, but I swapped out the pedals for the Fanatec V3s and chopped a half second a lap. The sky’s the limit here, but don’t skimp on the pedals.

Screens / VR:
You can get buy with a single monitor, triples are better and VR is the best for immersion but takes some getting used to. Boosted Media (YouTube) just switched over from a triple setup to a VR setup and made a video comparing the two that’s worth a watch: https://youtu.be/gJJb8TeKvRQ

Rig:
Weld up your own. If you guys race, you either have a mig or know a guy that does. You’ll blow your budget on a decent rig otherwise. I welded mine up with a junk yard car seat and some 1” square tubing for the same price as I would have spent on the glorified foldable drinking chair here: https://www.amazon.com/Playseat-RC0002-Challenge/dp/B009ZELZDS?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

That’s the core of it. Any one of the topics above can be a bit of a rabbit hole. If you want to take it one step at a time, build the PC, buy a good size monitor and the wheel/pedal set first then build from there. The G29 can be used on carpeting without a problem so driving from a computer desk in the short term while you guys figure everything else isn’t a bad way to go.

Good luck and have fun.

Cheers,

Ed

It's a self-promotion post, but it also would be a helpful information for you.

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Do you have to use your regular desk and office chair when you play a video game?

If yes, PEIN's Pedal Mount is recommended for you, To fix all of your gaming pedals issues.

​

PEIN's Pedal Mount is a device that is meant to keep your pedals at a set distance from your chair as well as tilt the pedals to a more comfortable angle that suits you.

​

We are sure PEIN's Pedal Mount will solve problems you've struggled with ever since you bought your pedals. With Pedal Mount the pedals perform the way they were meant to, they don't move and they don't tip over. And then you can push the pedals as hard as you like and they will stay put.

​

Pedal Mount works exactly as described and it is very sturdy when assembled. Once the chair is in the U-profile the pedals will not move, neither forwards, backwards nor sideways. The angle adjustment works just as it's supposed to and while perhaps making your pedal use slightly less realistic it can help a lot with comfort after long hours of play, depending on pedal type and game of course. The mount works just as well without the angle adjustment.

​

Assembling the mount is easy and adjusting it for your taste is straight forward. There aren't any quick latches or similar, just standard bolts that you fasten with the included allen key.

​

Pedal Mount will fit almost all pedals on the market. The cross-rails for mounting pedal are very configurable and can be put in almost any position.

​

Pedal Mount doesn't take up a lot of space. The extension frames connecting to the chair can be folded up which reduces the footprint considerably when stowed. When fully disassembled it's extremely compact.

​

The Pedal Mount also can be configured to equip various additional options.

• Height upping add-on (now purchasable on this on-line mall)
  
• Reverse kit add-on (design completed, now on progress of producing prototypes)
  
• Center-stick mount for flight sim game (completed 60% design of the center-stick mount and now on progress of producing extension pole prototypes for center-stick)
  
• Additional brackets or add-on with user's requests
  
  You also can do DIY easily with extra screw taps and bolt holes in various parts of products.
  
  ​
  
  ​
  
  You can find more information and pictures in this page.
  
  https://www.peingear.com/forum/product-information/pedal-mount-pein-information
  
  ​
  
  Purchase in US
  
  Basic edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N2F9YQN?ref=myi_title_dp
  
  Height up Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PRRPV8V?ref=myi_title_dp
  
  ​
  
  Purchase in other countries
  
  https://www.peingear.com/shop

Holy wow thank you for the in depth response. Just really started getting into true sim racing and the whole community has been awesome so far.
I've been using a crap wheel/controller so I'm basically looking at my first true set up. That means Logitech and others are out because I want to be in an ecosystem I can upgrade and grow over time. That seems to mean Fanatec or Thristmaster right now.
With that in mind , I'm comparing integrated products, base wheel and pedals together. The best prices I've found on new products so far have been through Fanatec direct and Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-Alcantara-Racing-playstation-4/dp/B015KJ0SES
https://www.fanatec.com/us-en/bundle/product;bundle_id;153

They both have awesome upsides with huge upgrades I can make over time, which is really the most important thing to me right now. If I wind up living and breathing sim racing, I'll eventually want to go direct drive, but I don't have any plans to do so as of yet.
Plus, in all honesty, if I don't stick with sim racing for the very long term (which I think is unlikely, but always a possibility), the Elite and T300 both seem to retain their value pretty well, definitely better than the current crop of Logitech and other brands.

Thoughts on the above would be awesome! Thanks again.

|What games/sims are the most life like?

• iracing
  
• rfactor 2
  
• assetto corsa
  
• game stock car 2013/extreme
  
  All of the above games are more or less the most popular games with the best physics. They all have their up and downsides. They are all miles ahead of any codemasters f1 game or forza. They also all offer the ability to drive open-wheel cars, although some games require mods or dlc to do so.
  
  | What wheels are the best?
  
  If you want a good xbox one compatible wheel then you're basically looking at the Thrustmaster TX. It has a really good belt driven system and has a detachable rim. The downside is you need to buy a separate set of pedals and shifter if you want to drive manual. If you want something less expensive, the best bang for your buck IMO is the Logitech G27, but it is PC/PS3 only.
  
  |How much cost is associated with sim racing?
  
  Well essentially you need a wheel and a game. A good wheel will set you back anywhere between $200-$700, and most games are between $20-$60.
  
  If you want participate in competitive online racing, you are basically going to have to go with iracing. They have by far the best multiplayer. However, you have to pay a subscription fee and must buy most of the tracks/cars separately. This is where cost can get out of hand.
  
  
  I have a lot of fun with a pretty basic setup, however the sky is the limit as far as spending goes. But no matter how much you do end up spending, it will be a fraction of the cost of a trackday weekend.
  

Compared to what are commonly called "arcade" racing games, "sim" racing games typically require more precision & better timing, and are thus considerably less forgiving & more difficult to control. I think people who enjoy the challenge and are willing to spend a significant amount of time practicing smartly can probably reach a somewhat safe (for others sharing the track with you) level of competency within a few weeks. Becoming competitive, however, can take much longer. There are lots of free resources online for learning how to improve.

Fanatical.com currently has a sale on Project CARS 2 for $28.79 (52%-off) - and there's also a free demo on Steam to try (which I recommend before you spend anything). Assetto Corsa is $29.99 (and a few times a year, it usually goes on sale for less). Both games have an offline practice mode & a single-player career mode to learn in before venturing into their online multi-player modes. Please do other racers a favor and avoid going online until after you've developed a solid grasp on safely controlling your car in traffic. ;)

The Logitech G29 wheel is popular (currently available new for $269 at Amazon.com). The ThrustMaster T150 is a budget-priced entry-level wheel (currently available new for $200 at Amazon.com). As long as you're not too rough with either of those, they should last long enough for you reach a point where you know if sim racing is something you want to go further with.

Unless you've got lots of disposable income to throw around, I wouldn't recommend spending more until after you become somewhat competitive with a budget setup.

Good luck & have fun!

T300 Alcantara Bundle is the wheel to get. Its good all around, good base, good wheel and also pretty good pedals. Should be everything you need to get you started.

The T300 is the succesor to the T500 and its a better base in virtually everything.

iRacing is the place to go for public online simracing. Its expensive, but has a good penalty system that forces clean racing. It's good competition.

Alternatively you can also look for a league and race with them in any game really. Most serious simracing with fair opponents and no ramming etc is done in leagues or iRacing. It's not impossible to find good racing publicly in games, but often it has some rammers or the like.

There are many leagues out there, personally I race with Racedepartment but there are many more groups around.

Best game on how to learn is a difficult one, any game can do really ,the fundamentals of driving fast (and safe) are the same both in real life as well as in any simracing game.

I'd recommend watching this video on racing fundamentals, it covers everything to get you started. Don't expect to be the new Max Verstappen in just a few hours though :)

>You should go over & read you comment 10 years later.

You should go over & read a book about racing lines. I recommend The Perfect Corner from paradigm shift. You do not understand this subject.

> Pro drivers have good 3d spatial awareness & I see no reason why they would draw that wrong from habits.

Good spatial awareness =/= good drawer. Also it’s not a perfect drawing because it wasn’t meant to be analysed down to the fucking millimetre. It’s a rough schematic showing the different phases of a corner.

Also, I reiterate, the apex of a car’s trajectory is not necessarily the apex of the corner. By definition, the apex of the trajectory is the point where you switch from deceleration to acceleration. To maximize your speed in a given corner, that apex should generally correspond to the turn’s physical apex.

Your “real life” drawing represents a trajectory that is mathematically slower than the one in your “sim racing” drawing which is actually pretty much the ideal way to take a corner regardless of if you’re in a real car or in a sim

The absolute fastest way through a given corner is to:

• follow an Euler spiral trajectory
  
  This is the mathematically proven way to take a corner (change direction in general) as fast as possible. Euler spirals are widely used, especially on railroads. Most highway on and off ramps follow euler spirals as well
  
  
• take the widest possible trajectory
  
  The widest possible Euler spiral is the one whose apex (the point where the car switches from decelerating into the corner to accelerating out of it) matches the physical apex of the turn
  
  
• brake as late as possible
  
  Because trail braking allows the driver to brake later, it should be used as much as possible. The Euler spiral allows for the best possible transition between longitudinal grip (full braking in a straight line) to lateral grip (full on turning, no brake or throttle) and then back to longitudinal grip (accelerating out of the corner). Ideally, the trail braking should be maximised to the point where the driver is trail braking right up to the apex, because this allows for the latest possible brake point.
  
  The only way to follow all these guidelines is to brake as late as possible, use as much trail braking as possible right up to the apex, and accelerate exactly at the apex. That is the mathematical, exact best possible corner. And that is what that 1:53 time is getting close to.
  
  You need to understand that this is all mathematically proven and works the same way in real life and sim racing. it works the same way for bikes, trains, cars, planes, spaceships, anything. It is the mathematical, irrefutable perfect way to change the direction of a moving object.
  
  The ideal trajectory in a sim or in real life cannot be different, because at its core the goal is to change the direction of a moving object. There is only one way to do so as fast as possible.

If your low on room physically, saving up some dough for a playseat challenge might be your best bet. Just fold it up and stick your entire rig in the closet when your not using it, but it's a comfortable and reasonably sturdy rig when your burning some rubber. It's not gonna hold up to a $1,000+ direct drive wheel, but it would be perfect for anything else.
At a minimum if your not using one already, try to get a desk chair rather than an office chair so that it doesn't try to turn on you while your playing.

Playseat Challenge Racing Video Game Chair For Nintendo XBOX Playstation CPU Supports Logitech Thrustmaster Fanatec Steering Wheel And Pedal Controllers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZELZDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CU1iDbP8YC5JS

Then save up for a VR headset like the Samsung Odyssey or Odyssey Plus if you can. Everyone looks down on windowsMR for its tracking but it's seriously incredible and means you can get a killed deal on the headsets used on eBay. Plus in a racing sim you don't use the WMR controllers anyway so your basically just getting a vive pro quality screen and vr experience, for in the $200-$280 range. VR was seriously the best investment to my rig I have made so far. Absolutely love the clarity of my Odyssey plus after having an OG vive and Rift.

> Yea heres a link to the TX if youre reusing your pedals.
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00ENFVS5Y/ref=sr_1_2_twi_1_olp?ie=UTF8&qid=1417568963&sr=8-2&keywords=TH8A
> Amazon warehouse is also a pretty good deal to get an item from amazon. They have one listed for 245 right now. Or 290 new.
> something to consider :)

Yea heres a link to the TX if youre reusing your pedals.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00ENFVS5Y/ref=sr_1_2_twi_1_olp?ie=UTF8&qid=1417568963&sr=8-2&keywords=TH8A
Amazon warehouse is also a pretty good deal to get an item from amazon. They have one listed for 245 right now. Or 290 new.
something to consider :)

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6400 2.7GHz Quad-Core Processor | $179.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $53.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $37.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $45.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | PowerColor Radeon R9 380X 4GB PCS+ Myst. Edition Video Card | $223.98 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design FD-CA-CORE-3300-BL ATX Mid Tower Case | $64.99 @ Directron
Power Supply | XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $55.99 @ SuperBiiz
Monitor | BenQ XL2720Z 144Hz 27.0" Monitor | $359.99 @ Amazon
Monitor | BenQ XL2720Z 144Hz 27.0" Monitor | $359.99 @ Amazon
Monitor | BenQ XL2720Z 144Hz 27.0" Monitor | $359.99 @ Amazon
Other| T300, T3PA-P, TH8A, Rim| $679.99
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2432.78
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| Total | $2422.78
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-06 20:58 EDT-0400 |


Some notes:

First off, if this is your first time doing anything sim racing related I'd take it slow and not invest to much in case you don't end up enjoying yourself as much as you think you will. If it's not go nuts.

This PC build should be able to hold up fine with most games, but someone please chime in if there's some better options. The monitors can easily be substituted for something else, I just love my 144hz. At the end of the day this is personal preference and can be adjusted to fit your needs/wants. I would highly recommend keeping the refresh rate above 120 though.
Finally, That wheel bundle is a bit pricey for someone just starting out, but definitely worth it if you know you will be serious about racing.

edit: Link to wheel

Ahh nice. You should be able to get a pretty decent upgrade.

Thrustmaster is probably what you are going to want to be on the lookout for, since they have some nice stuff in the $3-400 range when it goes on sale. The other option would generally be a Logitech G29 or G920, but while being solid, arent really worth more than $200. The Thrustmaster stuff will be better overall.

To that note, check out this link at Amazon. This was the sale I mentioned above, although it is out of stock right now. It was a bundle of Pedals (roughly $100 if bought separately), a Shifter (roughly $130), the wheel base (roughly $200+), and a wheel rim (roughly $150) for ~$475. If you have heard the term insta-buy, this was it. I would check this every day or two to see if it comes back in stock.

Around BF, Thrustmaster will usually have a variety of deals on the T300. There are a variety of wheel rims it might come with, or a variety of pedals. I would highly recommend getting the pedal set with 3 pedals (clutch, brake, and throttle). The 2 pedal set (brake, throttle) is really low quality and just cheap plastic.

Few bundles include the shifter, so dont go out of your way looking for everything I mentioned in the bundle above. For a TM bundle, it will include the pedals, wheel, and rim for ~$3-400 depending on what exactly is included. The bundle above included a different rim than what normally comes with the wheel base, so it's up to you to figure out what you would be most interested in.

To give you an idea, this might be a good bundle that you might be interested in. Might be under $400 for BF. The bundle I listed above comes with a Ferrari branded rim while this is just a generic TM rim made with leather. Still high quality though and still better than the normal rim is usually sold.

This sort of stuff goes on sale at Amazon every so often, so keep an eye out before BF too.

I think it's a good starting point regardless... I started with Forza, and all sim-genre games at least get the basics of traction circles and some weight transfer correct. It's not a super hardcore sim, but the graphical quality, sound, and progression are great and allows players to remain interested and get the most important thing, experience.

To answer OP's question, I recommend buying the G29 from Amazon soon while it is on sale for $212. You will need to buy the shifter separately, but it'll only run you around $40, or €38, and can be bought at a later time in your sim-racing career when money becomes available. The paddle shifters on the wheel should suffice until this time, as you'll be slower using an h-pattern shifter anyway.

My friend owns this wheel and really loves it with zero problems after 6-8 months of ownership. Let me know if you've got any questions!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151K6FPC/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's the guy I am using right now. I literally bought it because I wanted to do FFB with FM6 and try out iRacing. I tried FM6 for a few hours and just couldn't get the feel down. The way it feels when your back end starts to lose it is just so wrong it makes it super difficult for me to handle. After that I bought Project Cars on PC and wow, it was a huge different. PC isn't a proper sim, but the FFB is great fun. iRacing is simply amazing.

Possibly part of the problem is I started doing weekly races at CXC Simulations in Los Angeles, and their iRacing setups are unbelieveably amazing.

I assume instead of GTE you mean the T300 RS GT Edition.

This is the T300 RS GTE, and $400 is not a good price for it.

The difference is the GT Edition has better pedals than the GTE.

re: The T150. There is the Pro version that has the 3 pedal set, but it's currently unavailable on Amazon.

You can also get a separate 3 pedal set like the T3PA, or some refurbished G27 Pedals and the Leo Bodnar Adapter.

For a budget first-time wheel, maybe look second-hand? The G29 is mechanically exactly the same as the G27, and the G27 can normally be picked up for c. $200 or less second-hand.

Also bear in mind, the G29 does not come with a shifter, but the G27 does. If you want a shifter for the G29 you'll need to spend probably a minimum of c. $60 for the Logitech Shifter. However, the Logitech Shifter is pretty shit, so you might be better off getting at least the TH8A.

What's he difference between the G29, T150 and T300?

If you're comparing all the 3 pedal set versions, then the pedals are all virtually equal.

The difference is mainly FFB.

The G29 FFB is fine, but has a noticable deadzone at the top and can sometime feel a little bit notchy.

The T300 FFB is smoother, faster, stronger and quieter than the G29 and has virtually no deadzone. It's significantly better, but maybe not $150 better (depends on what it's worth to you).

I've been told the T150 FFB is somewhat between the G29 and T300, but I've not tried it myself.

I mentioned this already in another post, but the Thrustmaster T300 Alcantara Edition package is a very solid choice. Normally, the price is $469 on Amazon, but I saw it go for $299 during Black Friday and during the Christmas/holiday season. I picked it up when it was on sale, and for that price, its extremely well worth it. This setup is far superior to any of the Logitech wheels/pedals. My roommate has a Logitech G29, and that thing feels like a toy in every way compared to the T300. The T300 is much quiter, smoother feeling, and the pedals feel much more realistic (for this price range). Also just the diameter of the wheel alone makes a huge difference in the feel. It does not come with a separate shifter, but you can always add that in the future.

I have tried the G29 and the T300 side by side, and I can answer any questions you might have about them. Currently I'm using the T300 Alcantara package with a Fanatec 1.5 SQ shifter. The shifter adds ALOT to the experience, and it was totally worth the money IMO.

Look for the series starting with The Perfect Corner. Then Perfect Control and The Perfect Corner 2.

I’ve read them a couple of times so far and the change in thinking they inspire helped my driving considerably.

Plus I love working through the case studies in the second book.

I can't recommend "Ross Bentley's speed secrets" enough as a resource for learning to drive well. It's succinct and a good resource to read and re-read picking up new hints as you go. The author is a ex indycar racer who is pretty well known as one of the best driving coaches around these days (for the west coast US at least).

https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Speed-Secrets-Complete-High-Performance/dp/0760340501

Aside from that as mentioned above these are sims more than games and you can't expect to jump in and go. New tracks will take a hour or more to really learn, for each one. You have to enjoy the challenge to enjoy this sport.

I believe it is, but it is not as strong as say the T300. The other negative is you can't replace the wheel with other thrustmaster wheels.

The T300 offers 1080 degrees of rotation and the TX offers 900. If 900 degrees is enough for you, you could try this maybe?

You could upgrade the wheel if you want in the future or if you want a better wheel to start you could go with this.

I'd personally go with the first option since you get the shifter and better pedal set. There are plenty of options to go with though. I see a lot of people suggest fanatec pedals. I have the T3PA pedals and they work great for me. Hope this helps let me know if you have any questions.

Just my two cents as a new boot in Sim Racing, but I think you may be over estimating the necessity of FFB at first. Once you have it, you know how much it adds to the immersion, and that may be coloring your opinion as to how important it is to a new person.

My point is this. I've always liked racing games but never had a proper wheel. I was stuck with those damn controllers. (Yes, I'm on console. I left the PC Master race years ago.) So a month ago I finally said "screw it", and bought this:

Thrustmaster VG Ferrari 458 Spider Racing Wheel

I have had so much fun over the last month that I decided to jump into a little deeper end of the pool and bought this:

Thrustmaster TX Servo Base, Leather Steering Wheel, Gearbox Shifter, & Pedal Bundle

The FFB is so much fun, but I realized I probably appreciate it more because I haven't had it for the last month. On top of that, my wife (casual at best) hates it. She wants to use the non-FFB instead when she wants to race.

So that's my opinion on that. Just my experience and some food for thought. I'm glad to see you're trying to bring new people in like myself. I'm having a blast. I'm even building my own rig now. Yay for working with AutoCAD most days. :)

They advertise that they are somehow selling a 12nm Direct Drive wheel for $399 that is competitive to the $900 Accuforce wheel.

However, what they fail to mention are the sustained torque figures. The only "affordable" servo motor that can hit 12nm (as they advertise) is the MiGe 130ST-M04025. This budget servo motor is only capable of 4NM sustained.

This means that it's NOT a competitor to the Simexperience Accuforce wheel that offers 13nm sustained (with a 16nm peak).
This means that it's only capable of competing with the other ~$400 wheels-sets like the T300RS, which Feel VR is charging $599 for on Indiegogo

Hope this helps!

Measured sustained/holding torque (excluding peaks):
Logitech DFPro: ~1.1 Nm (rumored, unable to find loadcell/torque measurment)
Logitech DFGT: <2.5 Nm
Logitech G920/G29 2.2 Nm
Logitech G27: 2.3 Nm
Mige 80ST-M02430: 2.39 Nm
Logitech G25: 2.5 Nm
Fanatec GT2: 2.6 Nm
Fanatec GT3RS v2: 2.6 Nm
Thrustmaster TX: 3.9 Nm
Thrustmaster T300: 3.9 Nm
MiGe 130ST-M04025: 4 Nm
Thrustmaster T500RS: 4.4 Nm
Fanatec CSW v1: 4.8 Nm
Fanatec CSW v1.5: 5.2 Nm
Fanatec CSL Elite: 6.0 Nm
Thrustmaster TS-PC Racer: 6.0 Nm
Fanatec CSW v2: 6.0 Nm
Fanatec CSW v2.5 : 7.3 Nm
Leo Bodnar Simsteering2: 8.05 Nm
Mige 130ST-M10010: 10 Nm
Lenze MCS12H15L: 11.4 Nm
Simexperience Accuforce v1/v2: 13 Nm
Mige 130ST-M15015: 14.4 Nm
Fanatec Podium DD1: 15 Nm (as advertised, not confirmed)
FREX DD WHEEL: 16 Nm
Fantec Podium DD2: 18 Nm (as advertised, not confirmed)

Note: Most Mige 10/15 users run their motors at ~25-50% torque.
Note2: Holding torque is arguably the most important factor when it comes to using a wheel. However other factors such as smoothness, linearity, drive type, peak torque, ease of use/setup/configuration, game support, software, etc etc should not be ignored when picking a wheel. Research accordingly.

NP, only saw this now. Here’s the kit I use:

• 4x Dayton-Audio-TT25
  
• 2x Kinter-MA170 stereo amps
  
• I had some 12V power supply bricks with the right connector already; the amps didn’t come with any so you should get a couple if unsure
  
  Here is a really nice setup guide for SimHub.
  
  I wanted to buy a bigger shaker like this AuraAudio originally but it went out of stock just as I was about to place my order, and I was impatient :-) In hindsight, the pedal shakers are just right but I could have used a bit more kick under my seat. YMMV! I figure I’ll add more channels and more powerful effects in the future, and I’ll move the smaller pucks to shifter / steering column duty.
  
  You’ll probably also need 2x 3.5mm stereo jack to 2x RCA out cables to connect the amps to your computer, and some speaker wire to connect the speakers to the amps. 16awg copper wire will do fine, I had 12awg left from my HT setup.
  
  You might want to get an extra sound card depending on whether you have enough available audio channels. I run my shakers off the onboard analog outputs and my sim audio via my Rift headset, so didn’t need to buy anything extra. I under up buying a usb audio adapter later so I can run speakers or headphones separately, but you don’t strictly need that.
  
  Hope this helps! All in all this has added a whole new layer of immersion to my (otherwise fairly standard) setup and diy rig.

I see! Thank you, I will research a bit!

Thank you for the advice!! Which rim do you recommend me then? These are the available wheels on Fanatec Japanese shop. I am planning to play on PC. Main games are Project Cars, Dirt rallies and Assetto Corsa.

Also, what do you think of this and this chairs? They are the cheapest I found on Amazon Japan.

Again, really thank you!

If your budget is sufficiently flexible:

I think the T300 Alcantara is the best bang for your buck near that price range.

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-Ferrari-Alcantara-Racing-Wheel/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=sr_1_3?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1497120210&sr=1-3&keywords=t300&th=1

There is a big jump in performance once you upgrade to T300 level. Fanatec and the newer Thrustmaster wheels will perform better, but not in a radically different way. You won't get qualitatively better performance (to my knowledge) unless you spend upwards of 1000 on a direct drive wheel.

The Alcantara wheel has an amazing feel and size for the price. The pedals are also decent, and the most of the more expensive wheels (newer thrustmaster, fanatec, direct drive) don't come with pedals.

Depending on your budget, you may want to put off buying the shifter for later. I don't think I have a shifter recommendation, since I think that depends on your preferences. Eg, Sturdiness, ease of mode switching, shorter throw (clubsport) Longer throw, handbrake option (th8a)

Not bad. I think I saw it at £200 the other week for all 3.

I’ve heard that the G920 has some reliability issues and that the TMX is probably better to go with if you get the Pro set with the T3PA pedals.

If you’re not too bothered about the shifter straight away I’d get the TMX. I have it and the wheel is great for the price bracket, just steer clear of the 2 pedal set if you have the budget to go a step further. Some links below so you can have a look;

ThrustMaster TMX PRO Steering Wheel + Pedalboard https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01M5ALXJD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6RUpDb20TDV5F

ThrustMaster T3Pa Pro Pedal set - 4060065 (Gaming > Game Controllers) +}b https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00UVN21IU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HSUpDbP6YVZ0D

Thrustmaster TH8A Shifter (PS4, Xbox One, PS3, PC - Windows 8, 7, Vista & XP) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eTUpDbTEV2EHJ

I was just going off of Amazon prices when I made my post. To get the T150 with the T3PA pedals you're going to be spending $319, https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Feedback-3-Pedal-Progressive-Resistance-PlayStation/dp/B06XP1JZ53/ref=sr_1_2?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1500501698&sr=1-2&keywords=t150+pro . Although after your comment I looked it up and Gamestop does appear to be selling T150 Pro sets for $250. http://www.gamestop.com/accessories/thrustmaster-t150-pro-limited-edition-racing-wheel-only-at-gamestop/131351

For the g29 you're going to be spending $265. https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Driving-Force-Racing-PlayStation/dp/B00Z0UWWYC/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1500501761&sr=1-1&keywords=g29

So in that case it just comes down to whichever wheel you prefer. People say the T150 has better feel, I've never used one so I honestly don't know. But I know Logitech has a better reputation when it comes to their wheel's longevity, and their warranty is good for an extra year over the Thrustmaster (once again, if you live in the EU though you're going to be getting a 2 year warranty on both because of their consumer protection laws.) I live in the US though and the 2 year warranty is what really made me go from wanting to buy the T150, to actually buying the g29. If I'm spending that much money on something I want to make sure that it lasts for as long as possible, and the warranty makes sure that at the very least least I'm getting 2 years of trouble free usage out of it. And for real, the g29 really does feel good, I mean the g25/27 was the standard wheel for enthusiasts for years. The technology may be old, but it's tried and tested, and it works well, just not as well as a belt system.

The issue with the wheel is that you will have to spend a lot of money to do much better than the g29. I do think the t300 is an upgrade, especially the Alcantara edition but it's only a slight upgrade, definitely not worth the price of the upgrade. The pedals it comes with are a slight upgrade as well, again, I wouldn't pay that price unless your kit breaks.

Loadcell pedals on the other hand are kind of a no-brainer. CSL elites w/ the load cell will last you a very long time. Contrary to some of the posters here I would suggest getting the loadcell brake pedal right away. Learning to brake on a load cell is totally different (much much better) and you will have to relearn once you get it so there is no point delaying in my opinion.

I would get those then look into a bottom tier DD like the SW7C that goes for $550 + shipping in the future.

I definitely think you could get a quality wheel for $300. The nice thing about Thrustmaster is that you can buy them from other retailers, such as Amazon, Walmart, Gamestop, Best Buy, etc.

I know I was watching this T300 w/ Alcantara because it fell to $300 in December of 2016. Similarly, this TX w/ leather wheel dropped to $300 in November 2016.

Playseat Challenge is the best looking one I've seen. I've never tried one, but the reviews are pretty good.

First thing first. Why would you want to spend a fortune on a shifter instead of getting better pedals or the wheel?

I'd rather suggest get G27 or even G29 or G920 for as low as you can get, in this case and buy a better pedal set like Fanatec CSL Elite rather than the shifter that costs the same. IMHO, it's pointless to spend a fortune on a shifter in this case when you can get far more important things like pedals.

Being in your situation I would do the following:

buy Thrustmaster T150 on Amazon

buy Fanatec CSL Elite pedals

P.S. don't forget that shipping costs and import tax applies when you order Fanatec in Canada. I bought the whole set (Fanatec CSW v2.5, Formula Black rim, ClubSport v3 pedals, Brake performance kit) and had to pay a about $200 for shipping and about the same for the import tax.

I suggest this instead. Way better value. The stock rim and pedals on the TX are honestly a toy.

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-Ferrari-Alcantara-Racing-Wheel/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481820130&sr=8-1&keywords=T300+Alcantara

Your best bet would probably be the T300RS GT edition for around $450 - https://www.amazon.com.au/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-GT-Edition/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Thrustmaster+T300&qid=1555519222&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

It also comes with the T3PA pedals, which are much better than the normal 2 pedal thrustmaster option.

Going Faster is a widely recommended book for real life driving and racing. I say driving and racing because you need to focus on two different objectives. There is the ability to go around the circuit fast (Driving) and then there's Race Craft, which is the art of passing, defensive lines, etc. You need them both to be a winner, whether real or simulation. Enjoy.

• Wheel + pedals: Fanatec competition pack - CSW 2.5 wheel base, Elite P1 wheel, CSL pedals with load cell brake, meaning you have a clutch if needed. £850 ish
  
• Rig: Sim Lab GT1 Evo. £350 from Demon Tweeks, as you say
  
• Seat: this is somewhat less of concern as it can be upgraded later. Find a used sport bucket seat, basically.
  
• Buttkickers: AuraSound bass shaker. £100 ish, depending on where you buy. You can buy more of these over time.
  
  That equals out to about £1500. I know you said a clutch isn't required, but as far as I know you can't get a Fanatec pedal set without a clutch but with a load cell brake, and if you're spending this much you're going to want a load cell. And to be honest, having a clutch and a H-shifter is useful if you ever want to drive something that needs them (Group C cars, for example).

These will be your best friend if you feel like spending a few bucks.

Thrustmaster T300 RS GT Racing Wheel - PlayStation 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TnpjDbKBWETSD

Click the link below “new and used from $200” — top link is the one being sold by amazon.

It’s out of stock now, but you can order it/buy it from Best Buy and get a price match. That’s what I did and it’s supposed to be delivered on Friday!

https://www.amazon.com/Playseat-RC0002-Challenge/dp/B009ZELZDS

These are pretty great. You can fold it up and store it away if you want and it's reasonably sturdy and comfortable if you're not super huge. (Like I'm 6'1 200lbs and it fits me fine.)

My point is that there is a TX version that does have FFB. See here

Furthermore, my point is that OP is not referring to the TX version, so the version he is referring to does not have FFB. We are already in agreement here.

My choice would be T300RS GT (https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL)

But not Xbox compatible.

Not sure which country you are in, or what your actual budget is... But the T300RS GT is good value for money.

This is a good deal. PC and PS4. No shifter, but for the price, it’s much better than a g920. Thrustmaster T300 RS GT Racing Wheel - PlayStation 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QOPkDbS62HW63

I have 4 shakers set up on the 4 corners of my racing rig.

This is my DIY bass shaker setup:

Amp: http://www.parts-express.com/4x100w-at-4-ohm-tk2050-class-t-digital-audio-amplifier-board--320-335

Power Supply: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUPERNIGHT-24V-DC-14-6A-350W-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-Transformer-/331060676334?hash=item4d14c106ee:g:hV0AAMXQjWtRKt4z

Bass Shakers: http://www.amazon.com/Reckhorn-Bs-200-Tactile-Transducer-Theater/dp/B00AMH17GC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1425568544&sr=8-5&keywords=bass+shaker

Second Sound card to drive amp: http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Sound-Blaster-Audigy-SB1550/dp/B00EO6X7PG/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1402934998&sr=8-8&keywords=sound+card

Bass Shakers: 4 x $40

Power Supply: 1 x $24

Amp: 1 x $50

Sound card: 1 x $30

DIY Total: $264

Examples:
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/724042-My-DIY-SimVibe-racing-rig
http://www.overclock.net/t/1354257/project-log-my-diy-simvibe-racing-rig


EDIT:

Looks like the reckhorn shakers are currently unavailable on amazon. You may be able to find them elsewhere.

On amazon, These may be acceptable replacements:

https://www.amazon.com/Visaton-BS130-4-Tactile-Transducer-Shaker/dp/B0056BQMNM/ref=sr_1_19?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1544621334&sr=1-19&keywords=aurasound

OR

https://www.amazon.com/AuraSound-AST-2B-4-Shaker-Tactile-Transducer/dp/B0002ZPTBI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1544621334&sr=1-1&keywords=aurasound

You could use a 3rd party site like https://camelcamelcamel.com/ to set up a price alert for the next amazon sale.

Here's their amazon price history for the G29

There's a good deal on the Thrustmaster T300 RS GT on Amazon atm, not sure if that helps you based on the euros.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1L2NRL?th=1

It is The Thrustmaster TX 458 Italia set.

Thrustmaster TX Racing Wheel Ferrari 458 Italia Edition (XBOX ONE/PC) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ENFVS5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oVOMDbZPQ5XCW

Thanks for the details. I'm pretty happy at the moment with my setup, but one day I know I will upgrade.

I've got a revolution with a transducer. the acrylic tables, 3 monitor stand, and 5.1 mounts. I love it! I game a lot and would run into issues with my hand hurting. no matter what I did, every solution was only temporary. When i got the obutto, i never had problems with soreness again. I absolutely love it. the only problem i have with the transducer is that i'm on the second floor in my house and when i turn it on, they can hear it downstairs. i've tried all kinds of padding to no avail. I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZPTBI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

At the time, I couldn't find a Buttkicker to save my life. Don't know why. Everyone was just out. Mounting was an issue but i found some metal bars at home depot and some nuts and bolts that worked fairly well at mounting underneath the seat.

you can't go wrong with the obutto. the only thing i was thinking of doing was putting it on a raised platform as it's kind of low and if you're not a young guy, might be hard to get in and out of.

i also had an oculus dk2. if you're playing sims, this is a must have imo. provided the game supports it. even if not, there are software injectors that can accommodate you. just not as well as native support would.

Oh yes that thing. Good to know going in you need that adapter then after it's already at your door.

Also available at Amazon and Walmart as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TRJ12-Adapter-T3PA-T3PA-PRO-3-Pedal/dp/B01F41W63S

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Thrustmaster-4060079-TRJ12-USB-Adapter-for-T3PA-and-T3PA-PRO-3-Pedal-Sets/53159778

janky but i guess it works! i upgraded froma similar setup to the playseat challenge, and I gotta say the playseat challenge is increadible. for something that folds away, its so damn sturdy and the way you can sit in the f1 seating position or gt style in seconds is crazy. honestly would reccomend this if you're looking for a cheap upgrade path that has the benefits of a £900 seat rig https://www.amazon.co.uk/Playseat-Challenge-PS4-PS3-Xbox/dp/B009ZELZDS

Thank you for all the help, I ended up buying this http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-Edition-xbox-one-Windows/dp/B00ENFVS5Y/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 after doing some research on it. Seems really good and I plan on getting a different steering wheel for it in the future

T300 with T3PA set included...
little bit of a wait I guess,
but seems like a good deal

If you think you learned a lot from the video, buy Skips actual book, "Going Faster". It's the single book to own for any driver. The video everyone keeps posting is a massive summation of the writing and it skips a ton of amazing stuff. Not to mention full page illustrations of suspension geometry and setup techniques, setup theory, etc. I got a copy off of amazon for like $20 - http://www.amazon.com/Going-Faster-Mastering-Race-Driving/dp/0837602262

Here is an awesome deal on the T300RS GT

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL

Definitely just someone trying to earn from referral links but anyway if you don't want to click it's $288 from Amazon if anyone cares, here's the direct non-referral link
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Dual-Motor-Feedback-Responsive-Playstation/dp/B00Z0UWWYC

https://www.amazon.de/Thrustmaster-4160681-Lenkrad-3-Pedal-Set-schwarz/dp/B014UOF0S8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491824607&sr=8-1&keywords=t300&th=1

&

https://www.amazon.de/Thrustmaster-TH8A-H-Shifter-XBox-4060059/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=pd_sim_63_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=02XVN3TS6KQ36TYZ9MZX

Could get the cheaper T300 GT if you want but the alcantera rim is worth it for that small price increase.

Its been great!

I have yet to run into any issues with the wheel itself, though I feel I should warn you that if you're on carpet, the pedals don't have carpet spikes. So, you'll need to have something weighty either behind them or holding down the front. Otherwise, they will tip backwards when you hit the brake pedal.

Also, the price dropped to $150 for a couple of weeks not too long ago. It's back to $200 now, but I wouldn't be surprised if it goes on sale again in the next few months, if you're willing to wait.

As for getting a shifter, you can, but it's expensive. The only one I know of that's compatible is the TH8A.

Feel free to reply here or PM me if you have any more questions. :D

Looks like the other Thrustmaster bits are also discounted.

T3PA-Pro ($115): https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T3PA-PRO-3-Pedal-Add-xbox-one/dp/B00UVN21IU/ref=pd_bxgy_63_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=WP5WNF466F3F66YK2Q9Y&th=1

TX Servo Base ($192): https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Racing-Wheel-Servo-Base-Xbox/dp/B014US043A/ref=pd_bxgy_63_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=WP5WNF466F3F66YK2Q9Y&th=1

HERE WE GO!

Going Faster! from Skip Barber Racing School is a great resource as well.

So I'm finding used driving force gt wheels on ebay for aroudn $50-$80.

A new G29 on Amazon is about $215 right now

g29

Is there a big enough difference between the two wheels to justify the price difference?

What do you think of Project Cars 2 Vs Assetto Corsa? I guess my main interest would be rally / mountain type races

Best Buy and Amazon have the G29 on sale currently for $200, and Best Buy has already confirmed that that will be the Black Friday price, more than likely meaning Amazons will be the same as well.

>https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_api\_i\_6dUbDbS92W13B

Hey I have problem now with my G29. IF it starts it will shut down after like 20 seconds. then after another 5 seconds it will calibrate itself and then the circle continues.. Hopefully I have similar success with the Logitech support..

Has anyone read up on the new T300rs GT? What's the better deal?


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_H2IpybZ3QJ0GK

And here's the budget build list.

TV Stand: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K1X537R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3rBRCb7K0CYSV

Wheel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z0UWWYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ssBRCb6FHG47B

Seat/chassis: https://www.microcenter.com/product/470765/evolution-alcantara-gaming-chair

TV: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/vizio-55-class-led-e-series-2160p-smart-4k-uhd-tv-with-hdr/6212939.p?skuId=6212939

I'll be adding an SSH shifter and Fanatec hand-brake soon!

*Note: if you have a playseat and need to add lumbar support. When fold it in half you can work foam (or a towel) in to the lumbar area! Worked out really well for me!

Are you me? I was just looking for info on the same thing. I found this adapter that claims:
>Makes the Thrustmaster T3PA and T3PA-PRO 3-pedal pedal sets compatible on PC with all racing wheels on the market and with all PC games supporting multi-USB

Haven't tried it though so I can't say for sure. Hopefully someone else with experience can chime in.

• Wheel base: $220
  
  
  
• Shifter: $180
  
  
  
• Pedals: $150
  
  
  
• Wheel rim: $200
  
  Grand total: $750
  
  
• Fanatec: $1000
  
  It's really not that far off when you consider that Fanatec is broadly considered higher quality than Thrustmaster. I was ready to go all-in on Thrustmaster before I added it all up and realized I might as well keep saving and get the Fanatec stuff.

https://www.youtube.com/user/TacticalCardboard/playlists?view=1&sort=dd - Empty box's simracing 101 series is about how to drive, some stuff about simracing (fov,ffb), and racing etiquette.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQRmYMlmdqM

• How to find the best trajectory, what is weight transfer and what it does, racing in rain, etc.
  
  http://www.drivingfast.net/ - lots of info about track racing, some info about cars, offroad racing, road driving etc.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Speed-Secrets-Complete-High-Performance/dp/0760340501
  
• Covers almost everything about track racing.
  If you're going to race casually, then the book would be an overkill. But if you're going to race seriosly then the book is almost a must.

If you like books I would get Ben Collins: How To Drive. There are a lot of techniques that he goes over regarding how to brake, how to corner. All of these will apply to you driving on the street as well as on the track.

Ben Collin's

Alternatively, if you like very black and white instruction then I would suggest Ultimate Speed Secrets. It is not as entertaining as Ben Collins's book but it touches on the same material as well as a little more in depth analysis.

Ultimate Speed Secrets

Here's how I have my racing and desk space setup.

Sim Racing
Entire desk

I have my Rift sensor and my second monitor attached to two of these monitor mounts (https://amzn.com/B01AI2YGK4). Works very well for being able to adjust it both the sensor and monitor to swing from desk to racing mode. Just have to reset the view when you launch a game. The Rift cable runs under the desk from my computer to just above the trash can - so in desktop mode I bring the cable between the pedal brackets and the legs of the desk, and racing mode it runs along side the rig. I actually have two Rift cables, one by itself and another that is in a braided nylon sleeve with a USB extension for my Leapmotion. Switching is a little bit of a pain, but the nylon sleeve is way cleaner than the "weaved" solution that Leapmotion suggests.

On the left upright for the steering mount I have a button box mounted that controls a bunch of automated scripts for switching between the two setups - change audio devices, display modes, as well as a few Teamspeak functions. When racing I disable my larger 144hz monitor so I can isolate what I'm doing to a single monitor and don't have to worry about losing a program on the other monitor that I can't see from the 80/20 rig.

I just got the aluminum extrusion rig (Bosch Rexroth), which I got locally for about $100 less than what I would have paid for an equivalent 80/20 setup through ebay. I haven't really cleaned up the wiring of the extrusion rig yet as I am in the process of adding SimVibe to the mix, which the first round of hardware should be here today!

/u/ZeosPantera, any suggestions on a 'cheap-ish' amp setup to power 2 to 4 AuraSound Transducers, ideally all separate channels?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_jCcpyb99GXT5V

today only adn hands down the best you are goign to get at that price range

Your best bet is the thrustmaster t3pa pedals with a thrustmaster to USB adapter (not included)

I also found used Logitech ones

Before I built my rig, I used this on my office chair: https://www.amazon.com/distance-comfortable-PlayStation-2-3-4/dp/B07PRRPV8V/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=PEIN+Gear+Mount&qid=1574703956&sr=8-3

I put some locking caster wheels on my chair, too. Worked pretty well.

It looks great.

I got these (linked) for my regular office chair so that I wouldn't roll backwards when I press the peddles.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0716XS58X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just spend about $10 more dollars, and get a Thrustmaster T150 setup. It's what I started with this go round in sim racing, and it's great for the cost.

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-racing-wheel-WINDOWS/dp/B01CI97DNM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1540175686&sr=8-4&keywords=thrustmaster+t150

Any of the Thrustmaster wheels should work on it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014US048A/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_1_w

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-F458-Wheel-playstation-3/dp/B00CP4IKHE/ref=sr_1_50?srs=2530623011&ie=UTF8&qid=1521061859&sr=8-50

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TM-Leather-Wheel-Add-pc/dp/B00TTQKSUS/ref=sr_1_56?srs=2530623011&ie=UTF8&qid=1521061859&sr=8-56

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Sparco-Rally-Wheel-Add-383/dp/B0764415FS/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1521061911&sr=1-1&keywords=sparco+thrustmaster

If you want cheaper, maybe someone will sell your their 458 rim from the TX regular package or something.

I got some locking casters off of amazon; really effective and much less pricey than a stand+seat combo AGPTEK Office Chair Casters Heavy... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0716XS58X?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Yes, if you are on PC you can get a USB adapter for the pedals. I ordered one from amazon for like $10 ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F41W63S ), since I bought the wheel base + wheel rim 2nd hand and ended up buying the pedals from fanatec directly (took an extra week or so for the pedals to arrive). It worked without issue for me using the USB adapter to just plug the pedals directly into my PC.

If you are on console I believe drivehub can do the same thing, but I didn't try that.

You are probably entering with too much speed. In levels of importance when racing are

1. Proper driving line -- Make sure you are using all the track and not apexing too early or late.
   
   
2. Exit speed -- You want to be as fast as possible on the exit to carry the speed down the straights.
   
   
3. Entry Speed -- This is the last one to worry about and usually only shaves tenths from a lap time. The previous two will shave seconds.
   
   Too many drivers focus on entering as fast as they can which messes up both their line and their exit speed and makes them slower overall.
   
   Also, in the MX5 weight shift is key. To get the car rotating release the throttle. You will get throttle-lift oversteer which is the key to rotating the car into the turn.
   
   I highly recommend buying and reading this: http://www.amazon.com/Going-Faster-Mastering-Race-Driving/dp/0837602262

I agree I could get an O and the f1 wheel if I really wanted that might not be a bad idea (but still a bit expensive), still don't know to much about what I want to do yet.

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-Wheel-Add-PC-6304300-x/dp/B005PPOBQE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541390442&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=thrustmaster+f1+rim&dpPl=1&dpID=51F1C0xlyxL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-F458-Wheel-playstation-3-x/dp/B00CP4IKHE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541390399&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=thrustmaster+ferrari+rim&dpPl=1&dpID=51GeLsKQWdL&ref=plSrch

This thread is now moot. TS300 and TS300 Alcantara went on sale on Amazon for $250/$300 and I'll be returning the G29 based on the opinions here and the research I've done elsewhere. Thanks everyone for your input!

https://smile.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300RS-Officially-Licensed-Feedback-Racing/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480322723&sr=8-1&keywords=t300rs&th=1

The servo/wheel I linked come in a bundle with pedals for $499, but if I buy them separately, I can get the better pedals for a $50 difference (better T3 pro pedals are $150 on their own)

The T300RS is also available for $347:

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549332715&sr=8-2&keywords=thrustmaster%2Bt300%2Balcantara%2Bedition&th=1

Can easily do it for around $200, but you'll be wanting to be spending at least that much on individual components by year end. This rabbit hole is a dark, and very very deep one ;)

Thrustmaster T150 for ~$150

G29 for ~$200

TMX by itself for ~$180 but you need to buy pedals/shifter by itself

Locking rubber casters are amazing

I picked up two Aurasound AST-2B-4. I have one installed under the seat but waiting on two more 8020 pieces to mount the 2nd under the pedals. Nice installation video and review btw.

I would highly highly recommend picking up the book "Going Faster" and reading through that. It teaches the basics of race craft and how to break down the geometry of any circuit, and how to establish the best racing line through a corner. The book may be a little dated, but the fundamentals haven't changed one bit. And the boys at Skip Barber know a thing or two about race training.

i mean i'll spend a little more I suppose. Get the thrustmaster TX?


https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Racing-Ferrari-xbox-one-Windows/dp/B00ENFVS5Y/ref=sr_1_2?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1472765103&sr=1-2&keywords=thrustmaster+tx

I vote a T300 if you can find a decent used one.

Edit: Actually the T300RS GT is on sale right now on Amazon.

You should be able to get the T300RS GT for cheaper than $400.

I got the Ferrari version for less than the $400 a week ago on Newegg (it was down to 389 before any coupons or anything).

You can always use the Camelizer to check it's historical prices on Amazon.

https://camelcamelcamel.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/product/B01M1L2NRL?active=price_new&context=home_recent

You can buy the T300 Base for $244 from Amazon plus your choice of wheel like the Ferrari 599XX EVO Wheel Add-On, Alcantara Edition for $165, the TM Leather 28 GT for $150 or the Ferrari GTE F458 for $130 or you could listen to /u/isternes and go Fanatec for a few dollars more.

Thrustmaster offers a TX bundled with leather rim and T3PAs that starts at 470. Should be discounted (was last yearl

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TH8A-Add-Gearbox-Shifter-Xbox/dp/B005L0Z2BQ

I believe this is the only one that's compatable with modern Thrustmasters, They're extremely popular so the prices probably won't be much lower than $100 any time soon

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Racing-PlayStation4-PlayStation3-playstation-2/dp/B014US02ZA/ref=pd_cart_vw_crc_1_2/143-0195468-4173650?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B014US02ZA&pd_rd_r=ede26c3a-ec21-4d81-a5b2-d21b4e3421e0&pd_rd_w=Kfi3v&pd_rd_wg=40FWE&pf_rd_p=aa9f3def-b8ac-4b15-aa4b-c6a8313c2f5e&pf_rd_r=00P29C9MKR8QTGRGVX1N&psc=1&refRID=00P29C9MKR8QTGRGVX1N

here is the amazon link, its new. Also i fell like the pedals on the logitech would be better but if you say so.

Q1: you will need an adapter. These are made to plug into the thrustmaster wheel bases. https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TRJ12-Adapter-T3PA-T3PA-PRO-3-Pedal/dp/B01F41W63S

Q2: I only have the T3PA (non pro) set, and have not used any fantec pedals. Sorry. The conical brake mod is ok (to me), I'd like to try a load cell pedal and see the difference myself.

You could also go for the Thrustmaster T300 with the Alcantara wheel and T3PA pedals and the TH8A shifter for less money than the bundle with a better wheel.

You need an adapter. They are like $15 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TR-J12-USB-Adapter-pc/dp/B01F41W63S/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=thrustmaster+usb+adapter&qid=1564481539&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Most chairs use standard caster sockets. Just replace them with locking casters.

AGPTEK Office Chair Casters Heavy Duty with Screwdriver, Safe Roller Wheel Replacement for Hardwood Floors Mat Carpet Tile - Set of 5 All with Brake System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0716XS58X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O7VADbX7ZQ539

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=pd_ybh_a_7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TM6JM139XC5EJ8ZTDXEE 350 dollars for the GT edition, pull the trigger?

Alright, so im thinking I get these two things

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Racing-Ferrari-xbox-one-Windows/dp/B014US043A?th=1

http://www.microcenter.com/product/452281/Ferrari_GTW_Wheel_Add-On_458_Challenge_Edition

That wheel is the cheapest one i can find ($66) should be fine right?

There are the xlerator couch-focused wheel stands, not sure of the stability or quality of them though.

If you're looking for something compact that can fold up though you might want to take a look at the playseat challenge. I got mine a few weeks ago and it's fantastic, no doubt better than the xlerator stands. It is more expensive than most of those at about $250 though.

Still active at this link: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=sr_1_2?crid=6OEFOQ2V2JHD&keywords=thrustmaster+t300&qid=1563221078&s=videogames&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sprefix=Thrustmaster+%2Cvideogames%2C185&sr=1-2

I bought a set of these: https://www.amazon.com/AGPTEK-Casters-Screwdriver-Replacement-Hardwood/dp/B0716XS58X

​

currently out of stock but there are similar alternatives available.


Works really well.

These are an even better option, one of the few sets of replacements with brakes on each wheel too
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0716XS58X

Also this one is more specific than the Speed Secrets book IMO, which can be a good addition for your reading: http://www.amazon.com/Going-Faster-Mastering-Race-Driving/dp/0837602262/ref=pd_bxgy_14_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ZQHKTH18AJ2MMNPZ7EZ

If I were you I'd throw $70 more and go for the alcantara edition for far better pedals with clutch and a wider rim: http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-Alcantara-Racing-playstation-4/dp/B015KJ0SES

Looks like the G29 and G920 are both $200

Thrustmaster T300 RS GT Racing Wheel - PlayStation 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fbplDbR0TCZV5

T300RS GT is right at that price and comes with 3 pedals.

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488320317&sr=8-1&keywords=t300rs+gt

You can also look at T150 Pro or TMX Pro which are around $250 with the same pedals.

I just picked up this wheel and I absolutely love it. It's out of stock right now but it should be back in soon I imagine

Thrustmaster VG T300 Ferrari Alcantara Edition Racing Wheel for PS4, PS3 and PC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GRKtybA2ZW60X

Yes it is with wheels. I bought wheels with brakes. I didnt expect they would hold it this well tbh.

Edit: here is the link AGPTEK Office Chair Casters Heavy... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0716XS58X?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Difference would be wheel rim, and possibly the included pedals. If they're giving you the T300 Ferrari Integral Racing Wheel Alcantara Edition for less then the default package, do it now!

YO! If you are looking to get in to the T300 still, amazon has the T300RS basic edition listed incorrectly under the T150 right now, which makes it $211 w/tax shipped! Just ordered one!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014US02ZA/

Logitech Dual-motor Feedback Driving Force G29 Gaming Racing Wheel with Responsive Pedals for PlayStation 4 and PlayStation 3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z0UWWYC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_728pDbT4P8NCE

I am currently debating between two wheel bundles atm.

Logitech G920 Driving Force Racing Wheel + Logitech G Driving Force Shifter Bundle for $328

Or

Thrustmaster TMX Force Feedback racing wheel for Xbox One and WINDOWS for $189

This will be my first sim racing setup so I am wondering what you would recommend.

TX458

Thrustmaster T3PA

Looks like you can get both shipped from Amazon new for around $400-$450. Unless I'm missing something, that's not around $800.

Well the PS4 version is $200 I wonder why?

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B014US02ZA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504640144&sr=8-1&keywords=t150+thrustmaster

Even this plus a pedal setup with the clutch is cheaper than the T300 hmm but I want the gear shifer and clutch

Does the TMX count? -$134.64 at Amazon

Going Faster, the Skip Barber book.

Edit for Amazon link:

Going Faster! Mastering the Art of Race Driving https://www.amazon.com/dp/0837602262/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_JEK2wbPN6JSZV

I doubt it, see https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL

Do you perhaps have the GTE edition, which was supposed to have the pro pedals? GTE is $100+ more than GT?

Why doesn't anyone think to buy wheels with stoppers on them? I bought some for mine and the chair doesn't move at all, comes in handy and no need for silly printed stuff.

Edit: Here they are for anyone interested https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0716XS58X?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

You could at least give the rest of us a link, unless you were planning to keep the secrets to yourself ;)

https://www.amazon.com/Going-Faster-Mastering-Race-Driving/dp/0837602262

I really want the playseat challenge. The only thing is that it doesn't have a place for the H pattern shifter. I think I could make something that could attach to the side of it.

Here is the link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZELZDS/?coliid=I29PX08QYNEM3S&colid=WHOM4ATP5G29&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TRJ12-Adapter-T3PA-T3PA-PRO-3-Pedal/dp/B01F41W63S?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Available for orders but no idea when it will be in stock. I wish it was in stock already. My new T3PA Pro Pedals are waiting.

Amazon UK and Zavvi (reputable UK seller) both have the TH8A in stock:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Thrustmaster-TH8A-Shifter-PS4-Xbox/dp/B005L0Z2BQ

http://www.zavvi.com/xbox-one-accessories/thrustmaster-th8a-add-on-shifter-for-ps4-xbox-one-ps3-pc/11073267.html