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Yes, it is.

I use FaceTrackNoIR, and while I've had very mediocre results with the face tracking (mostly with regards to input lag), I've had great success with using its IR tracking module.

What I currently use:

• PS3Eye @ Amazon (I've ordered two from this page - both have been the 'good' version of the PS3Eye, though I have not actually removed the IR filter from either, and it works fine.)
  
• Visible Light Filter (Cut out and stack Red, Green, Blue)
  
• DIY IR LED Clip with SFH485P LEDs (I followed the 'serial' build with a 6.8ohm resistor)
  
  I cut my clip frame out on the CNC router I happen to have, but it is a simple enough shape there is no reason you couldn't cut it out by hand or even make something out of cardboard, as my prototypes were. DXFs are available here, if you happen to have access to one and want something fancy.
  
  I run the Eye at 640x480@75fps, but that is mostly out of habit - I've heard very good results can be had at 320x240, and higher FPS capture is almost always going to result in smoother response. I use the Accela curves for input smoothing straight from the PointTracker project page here. For movement curves, I'd share mine but I'm not really happy with them yet. Much playing around and personal preference there.
  
  I can run this with no problems with a window at my back. It can sometimes get a little wonky with direct sunlight coming straight through the window, but that really only happens first thing after sunrise - once the sunlight is indirect, no problems.
  
  All this being said, I don't actually use it in Star Citizen (until they provide TrackIR hooks), but I do use the hell out of it in War Thunder.
  
  

Allright. One cheap TrackIR coming up.

Ingredients:
1 Ps3 eye cam

driver for ps3 eye cam https://codelaboratories.com/downloads

one floppy disk (or a piece of a proper IR filter). These filters work too if you stack them one of each color http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006Z7M46/

Battery holder 4xAA

one on/off switch

Any plastic case to house the switch and battery holder and resistor

3 IR leds - SFH485p type is best

Some easy to solder electrical wire

1 30 ohm resistor

Some battery wire (if you want to house the "heavy" battery case on the table instead) - i used old phone charger cable.

Ball joint from some old car phone holder. If you make your led-harness from wire, use something like this to be able to position it. Sits between the led-harness and the headphones clip

Plastic clip from a trousers hanger. Just to connect your led-harness to your headphones.

And finally some steel wire to create the led-harness into which you glue the leds. Dimensions are shown in this picture. Of course you can buy the clip ready made (60$ from track-ir, no leds or battery cases needed) or a 3d printed one similar to this


Now on to the tasks involved

You need to remove the IR filter from ps3 eye cam and replace it with either a piece of floppy disk or those proper filters to block out visible light. Floppy will work, but it will react to sunlight and other heat sources - while the purpose made filters will not. Guide with pictures here: http://wiki.lofarolabs.com/index.php/Removing_the_IR_Filter_from_the_PS3_Eye_Camera

Now that the camera is ready, download and install the ps3eye cam driver and test it in facetracknoir or freetrack, use point tracker with the camera to see that it functions. You can try a TV remote.

How to make your led-harness is up to you. You can use steel wire and bend it to the same shape as in the clip dimensions picture, or you can buy a ready made or 3d printed one. Whichever suits you the best.
If you make it yourself, just try to make sure your leds end up in the end spots indicated in the dimensions picture.

The box containing batteries should also contain the resistor and have a hole in the side for the on/off switch. Where you place this box is up to you, if you can manage to build it light enough it can be mounted on the clip itself. I built mine in a robust case so it sits on the table with some old phone charger cable running between the harness and the box.

Your uncle might be able to help you with the resistors & weight. You can build a smaller setup which is entirely powered from just 2AA batteries or from an USB charger, you just need to calculate resistor values for them.

Soldering the IR leds is quite easy as long as you remember to solder them in same orientation, from minus to plus lead. Battery case plus -> resistor -> switch -> led+ side (the non-flat side anode). Then solder from cathode to anode until from the last led run a wire back to the battery case minus.

edited for a bit more clarity.

I don't know if you're seriously suggesting painting the LEDs, or if you just mean painting the keys and worded it strangely.

Either way, I would imagine that paint would inhibit a lot of the light. Stage light gel filters might work better for your purposes, I'm sure there's a way you could cut them up and attach them underneath the keys, or over the LEDs, to alter the color. That's just a quick idea, though, and there may be more elegant solutions available.