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Reddit mentions of AUSTOR 560 Pieces Jumper Wire Kit 14 Lengths Assorted Preformed Breadboard Jumper Wire with Free Box
Sentiment score: 3
Reddit mentions: 4
We found 4 Reddit mentions of AUSTOR 560 Pieces Jumper Wire Kit 14 Lengths Assorted Preformed Breadboard Jumper Wire with Free Box. Here are the top ones.
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Parameters: U shape, 24 AWG, male to male, wire length 2 mm, 5 mm, 7 mm, 10 mm, 12 mm, 15 mm, 17 mm, 20 mm, 22 mm, 25 mm, 50 mm, 75 mm, 100 mm, 125 mmWide applications: designed to work well with any breadboards or anywhere jumper wires are needed, perfect for breadboard projectsEasy to use: all the colored jumper wire are pre-stripped and preformed right-angled, easy to insert it into breadboardExtra bonus: come with a free plastic box, keep your jumper wire kit organized, convenient for store and fetchNote: the breadboard wire is a little soft so that convenient for changing its shape to do connect test; if you find that it can't be inserted, please check whether the cable in the pin hole of the breadboard is in good condition or not
Specs:
Honestly getting this was one of the best decisions I ever made:
https://www.amazon.com/AUSTOR-Lengths-Assorted-Preformed-Breadboard/dp/B07CJYSL2T
You can go pretty cheap but the absolute bottom of the barrel Aliexpress ones might have some contact issues. For peripherals it might be good to get this which gives you USB or barrel jack switching, switchable 3.3V/5V, and powers your rails. You also would want a set of prebent jumpers or jumper wire depending on whether you want board cleanliness or ease of routing, respectively.
I'm not sure what level you're at and I'm beginner myself so I'll just go over the stuff I've been doing. Maybe this stuff is super obvious.
> an incomprehensible jumble of jumper wires
If you're not using them already, the pre-cut and pre-bent wires are awesome for keeping things tidy (eg these).
> tightly packed components
Have multiple breadboards - they're like $3-5 at Tayda. The ones that clip together are handy. Having extra real estate to spread things out is invaluable. Although having long jumper wires can introduce more oscillations and noise once you've got things working you can always make things a bit more compact.
Use the buses - the outer two rows that run the length of the board for your power and ground. Use the columns of 5 for your signal path. This way you can just run jumpers up and down for your power/ground. Or if, for example, you have a resistor going to ground you can just connect it directly to the ground bus.
If you use a certain bit of circuitry in a lot of your builds consider making it on veroboard and having it off-board. I've built standard power filtering and reverse polarity protection on vero. You could do the same with something like a voltage doubler or inverter if you're always reusing them. Although it's only a few components it's a bit less on your breadboard and saves you redoing the same thing every time you BB up a circuit.
Try and lay out things as close as they look on the schematic as possible. Ground at the bottom, voltage from the top, signal running left to right. And if you can, down to the individual components. This can be hard sometimes, especially when dealing with transistors/3+ pin devices.
If you've got an old enclosure or something lying around where you can setup your off-board stuff to keep them all tidy makes things easier too. This guide from the Beavis Audio website is a good example. There's a few layout tips in that PDF also. There's also some sample layouts that might be worth a look over for some examples on how to layout certain circuit elements.
Not necessarily related to layout but a few other things I've found:
Test constantly - audio probe and DMM/voltmeter. Grab one of those little pocket battery amps (eg this one for $20) to have on your bench if testing with your real amp is a PITA.
I keep a printed copy of the resistor colour codes on the wall in front of my bench, makes it easy to glance up and check because yeah no way I'm memorising those any time soon.
Draw the pinouts for any ICs/transistors/things with more than two pins on your schematic for quick reference.
Have a decent understanding of the circuit first and how the stages work. I like to redraw stuff in KiCad/Eagle - forces me to learn what connects where. It's a lot easier when you can look at your board and go 'oh I'm missing a resistor that should be connected to the drain' (or whatever) without having to reference your schematic for everything.
I've also found I've been more successful when I'm putting things together to say in my head "signal goes through 68k resistor to gate", "1M resistor connects from gate to ground", "220p cap from gate to ground" etc etc, rather than just going "this thing connects to that". Helps you understand the circuit better and will make you then ask yourself things like "which pin on this component is the gate?".
Like I said, I'm still learning, so if I've said anything blatantly wrong feel free to call me out, always up for getting better.
I don't really wanna post the code for ethical reasons (I started with some basic Adafruit code for bluetooth and turned it into a full OS). But here's a feature list:
I used u8g2's u8x8 mode for the screen drawing, as it requires no ram.
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Here are my parts:
Voltage regulator (takes 8.4v down to 5v)
22pF capacitors
16MHz Oscillator (required for standalone board)
DIYMall blue OLED
Knockoff Arduino Uno
Adafruit UART-Capable bluetooth module (makes sending data easier)
Spare ATMega 328 processors
Li-Ion" 9V" (8.4v) batteries (rechargeable)
Switches
9V battery clip
Soldering Kit
Elegoo prototyping PCBs
Jumper wires (makes life easier & tidier)
Elegoo Starter Kit (Comes with LEDs, resistors, and buttons)