Reddit mentions of CAIG Laboratories D100L-2DB Electric Cleaner

Deoxit is definitely the way to go. If you have some actual corrosion on the contacts, fine grit sandpaper and more Deoxit. But if they are loading at least somewhat consistently, they’re probably just dirty/oxidized. If you had any serious problems, they wouldn’t load at all.

Source: I own a vg store and deal with this on a daily basis.

no prob...up to them if they don't want to spend $7 to keep several hundred $$ of gear working.. added a link for you to deoxit...can find it on Amazon

CAIG Laboratories D100L-2DB Electric Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BBVN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aMmNDb9AYVZJP

Apply this stuff to your motor connectors, 5o your battery connector, and even your esc connector. This stiff is good to have anyway! It removes corrosion and strengthens metal on metal connections

You probably have some build up from arcing and general oxidation on your contacts. Clean them and try to fire it again. I highly recommend getting some DeoxIT and applying it to your contacts and even your battery terminals. It helps keep things clean and performing well, and reduces damage from arcing.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002BBVN2/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_267_of_11?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WY5FYSTXXSWTAP6ZJRH5

The brush applicator is perfect for use with vaping gear.

Mechs need to be cleaned regularly. On a nice one like the spade I would be doing this once a week if you want to keep it in top shape and maintain its value.

BTW nice combo! Love the radius v2. One of my fave attys currently.

Yeesh, bad advice here. Alcohol solution is not your friend. Not for long term use anyway.

Soap and water works just fine, on a Qtip. If you got some really bad pins, use some de-oxit solution: this is what I usually use.

Pretty much. I believe mine is actually this one https://www.amazon.com/Booster-Electric-Connection-Enhancer-Lubricant/dp/B0002BBVN2 - but i assume most any electric contact cleaner would suffice.

Sorry it took so long, I don't hang out here much ... :-)

Scanner Bed glass - Yeah, I tried glass from a picture (the frame and pic were just junk), but it wasn't level and not very thick, so that didn't work well. I got pretty jazzed when I realized I had a dead flat piece of glass sitting in the corner of my office! One of those "OH!" moments, LOL.

Here's the mounting plate I printed from Thingiverse:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2230682 (Universal Hotbed Mosfet Mount).

The install instructions come with the unit, but here's the low-down:

It's basically simple:
1.Disconnect from AC mains! (after you disconnect, turn the power switch ON for 20 seconds, THEN BACK OFF. LEAVE UNPLUGGED!). Do this BEFORE you open the control box!!

2.Next you disconnect the bed wires from the current PCB, and connect them to the output of the new board. (Labeled "Hot Bed")

3.Then you connect the input of the board to the original connection points on the main PCB. Mine came with the wires. (Labeled "Control In")

4.Now you have to make some leads for power. This is the only "tricky" part, and if you don't immediately know how, get someone else to do it that's electrically savvy! Use 4 spade terminals and 14 gauge wire. DON'T USE SMALLER WIRE, IT'S A LOT OF CURRENT. Some people say 12ga (heavier), but it's a short run, 14ga is fine.

5.Connect your new leads to the power supply's 12V output, be sure to get polarity right, and connect to new MOSFET PCB. (Labeled "DC IN").

Tip: Personally, on ALL connections below 200 volts, I always use a little DeoxIT on the connections. It improves conductivity without being a "short" hazard, and protects against oxidation of the connects. Something that's a problem in hot electronics boxes.

Don't go overboard! Just enough to dampen the connection, NOT wet!
Here's the one I use most times (there's one specifically for gold connections, different formula):
https://smile.amazon.com/Booster-Electric-Connection-Enhancer-Lubricant/dp/B0002BBVN2/ref=pd_bxgy_23_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002BBVN2&pd_rd_r=WGKXZGQG9QJK3PKPYGSJ&pd_rd_w=dQcRF&pd_rd_wg=BbLju&psc=1&refRID=WGKXZGQG9QJK3PKPYGSJ

----(REGULAR FORMULA ABOVE)

And here's the Gold contacts one:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015A7CYG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this stuff on EVERYTHING that has electrical contacts. No more slapping the remote control because the batteries have a bad connection, LOL! Again, be sparing with it, wipe the brush off WELL before applying, you don't want running liquid, just a very light dampening of the contacts.

Magic stuff - all the "Roadies" for the major touring bands use it by the case. Don't want to be the guy to to track down a "Hum" in two miles of cables with 15 minutes to showtime for The Rolling Stones, eh? Expensive stuff, worth EVERY cent.
Have fun!
PuterPro

http://www.amazon.com/Booster-Electric-Connection-Enhancer-Lubricant/dp/B0002BBVN2/ref=sr_1_federatedaps1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411861318&sr=8-2&keywords=deoxit

okay, here is the deal in case you don't know. For future reference, because it will happen again eventually, buy some Caig Deoxit 100.
It is a tiny bottle it is like $15 it will last you forever. Easiest way to do this is to put a couple drops of the stuff into the base of the toggle switch/pickup selector. (lay guitar flat, being careful not get it on your guitars finish / have a moist and dry cloth handy). Once you have let it soak in just a bit into the toggle, work the switch through all of its positions up and down like 50 times just back and forth. Switches and pots get corroded quite easily. and that is how you clean and lubricate them.

here is a link to amazon so you can see what i am talking about.

http://www.amazon.com/Booster-Electric-Connection-Enhancer-Lubricant/dp/B0002BBVN2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1310675904&sr=8-2

Also, get an electronic contact cleaner such as DeoxIT. It does wonders for things like this to car battery terminals and everything in between.

First off, why not try something like this. If it works, you'd preserve the functionality.

And someone else can chime in here if this is a bad idea, but it seems to me like hooking up a multimeter to the pot should let you see what the resistance you'll need is.