replying /u/Peter_789 question on which 4 ingredients i would pick from his list


My 4 picks are Astaxanthin, Soy Extracts/genistein, Grape Seed Extract, Green Tea Extract
If Grape seed extract is not found, replace with resvertrol

Since you are already using Vitamin A B3 C E.Just supplement withthe 4 above as barebones minimum




***
Must haves from each category, based on your list

Carotenoids

• Astaxanthin
  
  proven to prevent oxidative damage to skin after exposure to UVA radiation
  
  source:nauraldatabase.com
  
  
  

  Flavonoids / Phenolic compounds
  

  
  

• Soy Extracts (phospholipids, daidzein, genistein, biochanin A etc)
  
  Multi-purpose. Anti-inflammatory, Antioxidant, Anti-aging and safe.
  studies on mouse skin have shown that topical application of soy milk and other soy compounds has a protective effect against UVB Light damage. No conclusive evidence if the benefits translate to human skin. Oncolofy Research, vol 14, num 7/8 2004, p 387-397. and Photodermatologt, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine April 2003, p.56.
  
  Also good for anti-aging
  Genistein has a collagen-stimulating effect
  
  
• Grape Seed Extract
  
  Contains proanthocyanidin, which are very potent antioxidants helpful for diminishing the sun's damaging effects and lessening the free-radical damage. Source: Current Pharmaceutical Biotechology, June 2001, p 187-200 + Toxicology August 2000, p 187-197. There is no difference in the antioxidant potential among different types of grapes. Source: Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry April 2000, p 1076-1080
  
  
• Green Tea extract or white tea extract EGCG
  
  Studies conducted on human skin have demonstrated that green tea polyphenols GTP prevent UVB...induced immune suppresion and skin cancer induction.Source: Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology Dec 31 2001
  
  EGCG, an extact of tea can prevent collagen breakdown and reduce UV damage to skin Source: Journal of Dematological Science Dec 2005, 195-204
  
  

  Antioxidants
  

  there are hundreds of antioxidants source: Journal of Medicine Food June 2007, p 337-344; Cellular and Molecular Biology Apr 2007 p 1-2, Cosmetic Dermatology Dec 2001 p 37-40; Current Opinion of Investigational Drug May 2007, p. 814-817; Journal of pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis Feb 23 2005, p 2870295
  
  

• Vitamin A, B3, C
  
  ***
  did not pick
  
  

• Ellagic -
  
  little research showing efficacy on skin, better to consume this.
  
  
• Turmeric -
  
  potent but potentially irritating (quoting Paula's Choice book p 1160)
  
  
• Pycnogenol -
  
  patented to Horphag Research Ltd (unsure if patent still valid)
  
  
  
• Resveratrol
  
  one of the most potent natural chemoprotective agent inhibiting the cellular processes associated with tumour development including initiation, promotion and progression.
  similar to grape seed extract same family - Anthocyanins
  
  
  
• Alpha-Lipoic Acid
  
  enzyme that is a good antioxidant. Most of the studies done were in vitro (test tube). How this translates to human skin is unknown since none were carried on people, double-blind or placebo-controlled to evaluate the effectiveness. In vitro test try to mimic human skin but is not the same as a living skin.
  
  
• Caffeine - known for treating cellulite and puffy eyes. Limited information on its antioxidant properties.
  
  
• Q10 Coenzyme - PC's book says p 1089 that it is one of the many helpful antioxidants for skin but it is not the only one, or the best
  source Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology March 2006 p.30-38 & Biofactors 2003, p 289-297
  
  
• Ergthioneine - animal tissue that has antioxidant properties. ew no to animal parts.
  
  
• Glutathione
  potent antioxidant
  source: Free Radical Research March 2002, p 329-340
  
  
• Superoxide Dismutase
  
  Enzyme considered to be potent antioxidant in human skin
  
  
  ***
  
  Osmolites and DNA repair enzymes
  
• i rarely see this category and i already use EGF daily.
  
  
  
  ***
  PS: I referred to Paula's Choice book Don't go to the Cosmetics counter without me 7th edition, with research that is probably 10 years old... They only printed it on 2012. I suppose it is out of print now. have not done all the research. it was a big arse job to research that loooooong list of actives. call this work in progress.

http://www.amazon.com/Dont-Go-Cosmetics-Counter-Without/dp/1877988359/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1416839363&sr=1-1&keywords=don%27t+go+to+the+cosmetics+counter+without+me

Start with this book.