Reddit mentions of FYSETC 3D Printer Motors Nema 17 Stepper Motor 42-34 Motor 1.8 Stepper Angle 1.5A 2 Phase Body 4-Lead with 39.3inch Cable for 3D Printer Extruder Reprap Makerbot CNC CR-10 10S Ender 3/ Pro Ender 5

I got you - I have had this same issue. I work from home and there is nothing like a 3d printer going off in the background while you are presenting in a conference call. I also have the Ender 3 pro, here is how I solved the noise.

Note: 4 things to know before venturing off in this solution. This may save you some reading.

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1st: You will need to know how to take things apart and put them back together.

2nd: You will need to print a few parts (listed below)

3rd: Cost will run ~$25 - $50 for parts ( listed below, some are optional), about $125 for the added enclosure to do it the correct way.

4th: There are prolly other solutions like getting a better board, but I like to stay true to the oem setup and tinkering with what I have.

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Here is what you will need:

1st Dampeners: $15 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNT72SF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

-as you are going to be removing the stepper motor away from the rails which help cool, you will need a new way to help cool the motor such as heatsinks. (Below)

- You will prolly only use 2 of the 3. 1 on the Y axis and one on the X axis. Dont really need one for the zrod as it don't really put out a lot of noise when printing.

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2nd Heatsinks: $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KWVGGGK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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3rd X axis stepper motor (42-34 is the size): (Optional) $ 17 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDBMT1D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- I say Optional as you can print the bracket to make the stock stepper motor work but it fully replaces the motor mount plate Found here : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3271077 . I was just not sure how that would hold up to wear and tare as I was new to printing at the time and did not care to take the whole motor plate section and wheels apart.

-But if you want to skip printing the plate and the tare down/reassemble, I would order the stepper motor and 20 tooth sprocket. (below )

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4th Sprockets (20 Teeth) : (Optional, see 3rd item on list) $ 8 -https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019GICCMA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- sadly you can only get a 5 pack.

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5th Y Damper Bracket: Free - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3240449

- This moves the orientation of the motor to make up for the extra 10mm or so from the dampener.

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6th Small bed leveling nut wheel (not sure what to call it): Free , Print it.

- The back left wheel will hit the heatsink/motor after you add the dampener and causes the bed to not extend all the way back. I had to go on tinkercad and make my own mini nutwheel. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3742690

- This will make it a bit harder to level the bed as it is smaller and harder to turn, but if you have the yellow springs installed, you should not have to level your bed often =p

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7th - Lack Enclosure ~ $125 for me anyway Tables are around $8 and the plexy was around $50, and a full spool of filament ~$22, large pack of M12 screws $8

I got 3 tables, stacked them on top of each other, Printed my own feet/extensions to make sure it was the correct height (Solid 20" tall is what I went with) and then I went to my local Lowes and picked up 4 sheets of 3mm plexy. Cut my self and slapped it all together. This really finished off most of the noise for me, the only noise you will really hear after the dampeners is the fans. =(. I still hear the fans with an enclosure but its quite subtitle. I may upgrade to the much talked about Nactua silent fan with the buck converter to make it a 24/12 volt fan.

- You will need to also move the PSU out of the enclosure as this will help with the over heating/wear and tare. I printed some bracket ( like this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3349588 ) to hold it to the underside of the 2nd shelf, and drilled a hole through to the printer where I could reconnect the printer and psu.

- This also helped with the fan noise from the PSU, I was really shocked on how well it worked. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3659432

- I also drilled a hole from the USB port down though to run my USB to and from Printer/octopi .

Hopefully this helps - hit me up if you have any questions . There is a lot of info here but it really helped bring down the noise. I would say the sound went from level 10 down to 3 or 4.

- I can upload my design for the Enclosure if needed, I am not fully sold on my design for the door section..

When I get around to it, I will upload pics of my setup =p

-shortliv3d

I'm going to do the install again on my other Ender next week and I'll fully document it then. Things I learned along the way:

First you'll want to bookmark this page. Pretty much everything you need to wire and configure the firmware is there.

The Einsy uses Molex 9402, 03, and 04 connectors for all of the stepper motor, fan, thermistor, and end stop connectors. While it's possible to cut the keys off of the stock connectors and the stepper motor connectors will fit, I prefer to have the polarized latching connectors, so reterminated all of them. If you order the board with the hardware kit from Ultimachine it includes connectors and pins, but I was glad I went ahead and ordered more pins and connectors from Amazon as it took me a little while to get the crimps correct and I ruined most of the pins.

Note also that the JST connectors that plug into the end stops and thermistors have a much shorter barrel than the Molex ones and I had to get a different crimping tool for those. I also got an assortment of ferrules and the crimping tool for those as I really hate running bare wires into screw terminals and I don't like using spade lugs either if there is more than one connection to a terminal. Ferrules are much better than bare wire and the connections last years longer than a bare wire. My bed heater connection was scorched because the wire wasn't inserted all the way into the connector and most of the strands had broken off leaving a high resistance connection.

Both fan connections are 5V PWM. You can get to 24V on the exp 3 or J 19 if you just want the hot end fan to be on all the time, but I went ahead and got Noctua 5v PWM fans. I printed the simplest adapter possible to convert the centrifugal part fan to axial and wired both fans to the fan connections. Still having issues getting the hot end fan to turn off and on based on the hot end temperature, but that's the project for tonight. Still doing test prints, but so far it looks like the part fan is doing ok, but I have a new hot end mount that has dual part fans printed that I'll get on this weekend.

I had a terrible time getting sensorless homing working and couldn't get the mostors to work at all with them set to microstep values set higher then 4 on the X and Y axis. I had always planned on upgrading the extruder stepper to one of the high torque Moon's steppers, but I ended up upgrading them all as I couldn't find out what the specs for the stock motors were. The X, Y, and extruder motors were easy as they weren't size constrained, but the Z axis can't be more than 34mm tall to fit in the stock mount. I ended up using this motor for the Z axis and it's working very well.

The stock stepper motors may or may not have pressed on gears. My Y motor did, but the X did not. I just ordered more gears as I wouldn't have trusted the gear even if I managed to get it off without damaging it. Since the new motors for X and Y had a slightly longer shaft, it was easier to get them adjusted with the grub screw type gear.

After I got the steppers replaced, I still couldn't get the motors to work until I boosted the motor current from the 800mA default to 820mA. After that 16x microstepping, stealthchop, and sensorless homing started working reliably. It could be that the stock motors may have worked if I had done the same with them. I'll find out next week when I do the next one. I have all new Moon's steppers already purchased for it though so I'm not going to spend a lot of time messing with the stock motors.

The stock stepper motor and end stop cables where solid black ribbon cables. No color coding at all. I decided to replace them rather than try to trace the wires. After I got the cables made I discovered the fancy Moon's stepper had a different pinout from the rest and had to fix that one.

Stock motherboard had the SD card reader mounted on it and I prefer to print from SD for anything that takes more than 8 or so hours, so I got the RepRap full graphics LCD. It was only $11 and it has a full size SD slot. Worked fine as soon as I cut the key off of the EXP connector and reversed it. Be careful doing that, I nicked the ribbon cable and ruined one of them.

Stock firmware image on the Einsy came up with a Mintemp error. Most likely it was using the wrong thermistor type. I went with the vanilla 1.1.9 bugfix version of Marlin as a base with the Ender 3 default configuration files loaded. There is a link to a preconfigured 1.1.5 Marlin in the wiki, but it doesn't have Ender 3 example configuration files. I didn't really look at it as the difference in configuration is quite different from the 1.1.9 version. You'll need to add a link to the board manager repository, but that and the libraries you need are fully described on the wiki.

Haven't gotten interpolation to 256 steps working yet and it doesn't work at all with stealthchop disabled. Motors start moving 4 times as far as they should in either case. Homing is done in spreadcycle mode, but I guess homing just needs to move until it stops, so maybe it's still trying to go 4 times too far, it just doesn't matter.

BLTouch wiring is almost exactly as the Wiki documents and worked perfectly on the first try. Only thing incorrect was the 1.1.9 bugfix default for pins_EINSYRAMBO.h already has the correct mapping for the z end stop and probe pins when bltouch is enabled. You don't need to change that.

I built Marlin many times and update it through octoprint. Until I got ABL working and needed to save the mesh, I put M502 and M500 commands in the script that octoprint runs after the firmware is loaded. That way I knew that all of the firmware changes I made were always applied when I loaded a new image. Make sure and enable the m122 TMC Debug option. It's the quickest way to verify how the drivers are set up.

I've enabled pretty much all of the bells and whistles in Marlin and I'm only using 63% of the code space. May try enabling Unified Bed Levelling tonight.

I also disabled the option that prevents cold extrusion with M302 while I was debugging the extruder motor. I just left the bowden tube off of the extruder until I get the motor calibrated.

That's pretty much everything that I can think of off hand. When I do it again I'll probably remember other things.

Yeah, I use this one on my extruder: https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Printer-Extruder-Makerbot-Creality/dp/B07GDBMT1D/ref=sr_1_1?fst=as%3Aoff&qid=1557351862&refinements=p_89%3AFYSETC&rnid=2528832011&s=industrial&sr=1-1
No issues at all, plug and play.

Alright, I think I'm getting the picture. So something like this (closer to /u/ZombieGrot preferences) would work and get hot if the current's too high. I suppose torque isn't particularly relevant because it's just moving plastic in one direction.

Wow, they sure don't waste many electrons on listing the motor specs.

So, first off why do you think that you need a replacement stepper motor? They're pretty tough little beasties and, while there are failure modes, more often the fault is in the connector, wiring, or driver.

Warning: Never disconnect a stepper motor that driven by a microstepping controller (like this one) while the motor is energized. That can blow the driver chip.

With that out of the way, have you tried operating the motor when it's plugged into another driver?

If it is the motor then you can probably replace it with a NEMA 17 that has 200 steps/rev (1.8-deg), rated current 0.8-1.7 amps, 4-8 ohms coil resistance, and inductance 5-10 mH. Keep an eye on it initially to see if it's running too hot. Something like this one.