#8 in Car audio speakers & subwoofers
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Reddit mentions of Infinity REF3022CFX 3.5" 75W Reference Series Coaxial Car Speakers With Edge-driven Textile Tweeter, Pair

Sentiment score: 3
Reddit mentions: 4

We found 4 Reddit mentions of Infinity REF3022CFX 3.5" 75W Reference Series Coaxial Car Speakers With Edge-driven Textile Tweeter, Pair. Here are the top ones.

Infinity REF3022CFX 3.5
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    Features:
  • Edge-driven textile tweeters
  • High quality product
  • Manufactured in United States
  • Package weight: 2.3 lbs
Specs:
Height6 Inches
Length10 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateJanuary 2020
Size3.5 Inches
Width4 Inches

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Found 4 comments on Infinity REF3022CFX 3.5" 75W Reference Series Coaxial Car Speakers With Edge-driven Textile Tweeter, Pair:

u/The_Wikipedia_Vandal · 4 pointsr/CarAV

Infinity Reference 5 channel amp - $239.99

[4 AWG amp kit] (https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RWK4CU-Copper-Complete-Installation/dp/B019Z3RCG2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1550159767&sr=8-6&keywords=4+awg+amp+kit) - $49.95

9 wire - $24.95

Additional RCAs - $19.99

4 channel LOC - $23.34 - You need this because you're keeping your factory radio

RCA splitter - $7.45 - To get the 4 channel LOC to 6 channels for the amp's input. There's maybe other ways you could do this, but this is what I would do because it'd be the simplest to swap the radio in the future.

Infinity Reference 6.5" for the doors - $56.95/pair x 2 = $113.90

Infinity Reference 3.5" for the dash - $48.70

= $528.37 + Installation which will easily run between $200 - $350

If you'd like to spend a bit more you might ask about sound dampening on the doors. Or you might save the extra and put it towards replacing the radio in the future.

u/kwd114 · 3 pointsr/mazda3

I would start by replacing the 2 small dash speakers. They are 3.5" but for some reason lack a tweeter. I replaced mine with some Infinity Ref. 2 ways and it really brightened up the soundstage.

https://www.amazon.com/Infinity-REF3022CFX-Reference-Speakers-Edge-driven/dp/B01E4JWG6I?keywords=infinity+ref+3.5&qid=1538330991&sr=8-1&ref=mp_s_a_1_1

u/onick8 · 1 pointr/CarAV

I do not have rear deck speakers. but as long as you know the speaker size, speaker impedance of your factory speaker, you can find a replacement in amazon. these are the bass blockers i have used. I think for tweeters you are better off buying 3.5" speakers like Infinity REF3022CFX or something similar and modify the brackets, as in cutting the outer brackets of the speakers with Dremel so the holes in speaker lines up with the frame. you will find some posts in forums about people doing it. this is the one I ordered Pioneer subwoofer. this is not as easy as replacing factory speakers, because most subwoofer will need their own power cable to route from the battery. also plug the rca and remote wire in the back of the head unit then route them back to the speaker at the trunk. for now, do some online search and forum reading, to see what other owners of your car model have used to upgrade their speakers.

u/Ohm-Spec · 1 pointr/CarAV

(((post is also for Zack V, who is building a system right now in his truck)))

​

I want to focus mainly on the upper front speakers, let's say you've got 3.5's up in the dash.

But first lets get a recommendation out of the way for the 6x9's: Run them on an amp.

On the amp for the 6x9's, likely wire 4-channel amp mounted somewhere under the glovebox where it won't get kicked by someone's feet.

Then a set of speaker wires from the dash head unit and back up to the head unit to splice into the wiring harness adapter that was purchased for the head unit, this will feed the speakers their power instead of the head units own speaker output without having to run any new wiring to each speaker, which should be just fine if you are not going over 300 watts peak (or over 50 watts RMS per channel, 200 watts RMS total, or 450 watts max, peak is usually 50% over RMS, MAX is usually 200% to 250% over RMS).   So you can safely go up to a 450-watt amp easily as long as you're not running it at max full volume 100% all the time, which you won't because you'll go deaf in no time. Most newer vehicles stock wiring (although thinner) is of high enough quality to handle this with no problems (50-Watts RMS).

The amp will have to have a "high-level input" for this to work (just don't use the RCA connectors for this task unless the stock radio has the low output option for them, which isn't likely). You will likely only find the less expensive amplifiers with this option, as most setups replace the head unit first (aftermarket head units provide the low level RCA outputs designed for use with amplifiers).

As for the 3 1/2 speakers in the dash, this is going to be the hardest thing to understand but they are actually full range and set the "sound stage" for the vocal part of the music.  Putting in tweeters only (without full or mid-range) will kill your sound stage entirely and make your vocals sound very flat, especially if your 6x9's are lower in the doors by the feet.

Most importantly is to match them to the head unit, meaning you want to get the highest clean volume with the minimum wattage, for example: (and I just researched this) the best pair on the market without an amp will be something like the Infinity Reference 3022cfx 3.5" and here's why:  you get 91db of "pure, clean sound" (due to low end Bass Blocker built in so you don't blow out such a small speaker) but all that sound comes from only 25-watts of power!  (Can handle up to 75 peak if the head unit puts that much out or you want to add a second 2-channel amp) but that combined with a very high signal to noise ratio will give plenty of volume without needing an amp, and this is one of the only component speakers of this size that comes in a 3-ohm configuration which will give it some added oomf due to higher power draw at lower volumes (meant to compensate for the other speakers running on an amp). If you check out all the other offerings on the market, you'll see a lower sensitivity, higher RMS power requirement, narrower frequency range, much higher price, and in some cases ALL of these factors at once!

Others like the JL Audio C2-350x, JBL GTO329, and Rockford Fosgate Punch P132 all have very limiting factors such as high power requirements, needing a second 2-channel amp, or low signal to noise ratio, needing a second amp, or specifically the JL's may sound flat due to a limited higher frequency range (like tweeters only),  the JBL's will be drowned out by the sheer volume of the 6x9's with the 3.5" JBL's having such a high RMS power requirement they will literally sound "quiet" compared to the 6x9's without their own amp, and the Rockford Fosgate 3.5's have both a lower sensitivity and flatter frequency response. I know it's only a few hertz (85 to 120) but that to me makes all the difference on the vocal sound stage when there's a low male voice singing such as Eddie Vedder, Johnny Cash, Jim Morrison, etc... (at least to me I hear a difference, it could be psychological but that's a whole other category of postings).

Keep in mind you can spend OVER $1000 (without buying an amp) on 3 & 1/2 inch speakers & Signal Processor & Shipping chasing top quality, but this isn't the goal here today, for right now you want your price range of the whole speaker system around $500.

Of course if you're only streaming Pandora or Spotify don't bother for highest quality as the high ranges all get garbled to audio compression so there's no point, just go with whatever cheapest speakers won't give distortion at moderately high volumes.

Don't forget the wiring adapters! This was my favorite part for not having to cut the factory speaker connectors and they're usually under $3 each Example: Speaker Harness for $5.62 / pair.

I hope this helps you make a decision. Personally I like the vocals in music the most so I may sound a little passionate on the topic of setting the sound stage.