Reddit mentions of Kimberly-Clark Scott Shop Towel

Scott Shop Towels are good for applying Tarminator on my tires without sacrificing a MF towel every time. Also good for applying diluted Optibond.

I use those blue shop towels soaked with green soap. They're super absorbent so a towel or two will last you the whole session and the green soap makes it feel soothing af. Works like a dream.

i use those blue "shop towels". they work pretty well, but still do leave a bit of lint on really rough surfaces. Really not bad though.

example of the towels in question.

Well, flake white is one color you'd want to avoid. It's made with lead. Gamblin makes a flake white replacement that's supposed to be very good, though, with all of flake white's handling properties but without the lead.

Cadmium colors are toxic but only if you breath or ingest the pigment directly. Wash your hands after you use it, and if you have to sand down a painting with cadmium in it, take it outside and wear a good filter mask.

For a medium, linseed oil or walnut oil + a really clean odorless mineral spirit like Gamsol would be a good bet. Mix them about half and half. Instead of keeping a big jar of it open, just get a little medium cup like this one and you'll have, at most, only an ounce of it out at a time. If you don't even want that much you can try an alkyd medium like Liquin, Galkyd, or Neo-Megilp. With pretty much all my paints, I mix in a few drops of walnut oil into them when I first squeeze them from the tube, as that not only helps loosen them up but also slows the drying time a bit; because they've already got that bit of extra oil, I don't need to use a ton of medium, so I've usually only got a couple of teaspoons of the stuff out at a time, whichever one I'm using.

For cleaning your brushes, you can also just use straight linseed oil while you work; just keep a container of it handy, dip your brush in, and wipe it out on a paper towel. (I like these Scott shop cloths as they're specifically made to soak up oil well.) It's not going to get all the paint out, so you'll want to have plenty of brushes so you can swap them out between colors, but it'll keep any paint that's left in there from drying out right away. If money is an issue you can use mineral oil or baby oil for cleaning, just make sure you get it all out of the brush before you pick up a new color. I did this for awhile when I first started and didn't want to invest a ton of money; getting some of that oil into the paints probably didn't do any good for the longevity of those paintings, but they were just shitty ones I was doing to learn how to use the paint anyway so it doesn't matter.

At the end of the day you can just wash them out in warm water and a good brush cleaning soap like Pink Soap from Speedball or Studio Soap from Richeson. (When I clean mine, I take them outside and give them a quick swish in some odorless mineral spirits, shake out the excess, and then bring them back in to wash. Since the OMS gets out most of paint, I don't need a special soap to finish them, I can just use baby shampoo to finish them off. That keeps pretty much all the OMS I use outside where I don't have to breathe it, and makes the final washing go very quickly.)

The others who have commented already hit the nail on the head, but since I'm currently sitting in a meeting, and a little bored, I'll expand a little bit...

Firstly: that's a great machine you've got there, consider me jealous, especially since you picked it up for cheap. There's a lot of really cool things you can do with a nice pantograph machine. If you're interested in learning a bit more about it, and seeing it in action, I'd highly recommend checking out Stefan Gotteswinter's YouTube channel, he's got several videos related to / utilizing this machine: Here's a list of his videos about the pantograph.

1. Rust Removal & Cleanup: /u/John_Hasler nailed it with EvapoRust, it's a really great product. For small parts, pour the EvapoRust into a plastic container, and soak the parts for a few hours (up to 12ish, depending on how bad the rust is). For Larger parts, especially big surfaces, get paper towels (I use Scott Shop Towels they're strong enough to not tear easily, and they have a fairly smooth surface texture which helps the process) and soak them in EvapoRust, then lay them on the surfaces to treat, trying to make sure you're getting full contact. Then cover / wrap with plastic wrap to prevent the towels from drying out. Let them sit overnight, and then remove them. EDIT: Also, make sure to degrease everything before using EvapoRust. Grease and oil greatly reduce its efficacy.
   
   After the EvapoRust treatment, you'll be left with a black film all over everything. I rinse everything off with distilled water, and then scrub / polish all the surfaces with Gray Scotch-Brite Pads. After this I rinse everything again with distilled water, and then follow that up by wiping everything down with acetone*
   
   
2. Corrosion Prevention & Protection: /u/ShimanoMan58 mentioned Fluid Film, which is what I'd use as well. Once you've got everything cleaned up really well, spray everything down with AS11 Fluid Film it will add lubricity to all the moving parts, it soaks into tiny areas, and dries to a hard, waxy film. This will protect all the surfaces against rusting, and should last about a year. On rotating components, such as the leadscrews in the X-Y positioning work table, I'd recommend using a high pressure molybdenum sulfide grease. For sliding surfaces, like the dovetail ways under the table, I'd use an actual way oil, such as Mobil Vactra Number 2, though I will say it can be annoyingly difficult to find in small quantities. Regular 30W Motor Oil will work, just not as well.
   
   Edit: Because I forgot to add this in earlier:
   
   * After cleaning with acetone make sure you oil everything shortly thereafter (ideally within minutes) to prevent flash rusting.

https://www.amazon.com/Kimberly-Clark-Professional-Scott-Shop-Towel/dp/B00S0LBOQA