Reddit mentions of NETGEAR Nighthawk Smart WiFi Router (R6900P) - AC1900 Wireless Speed (up to 1900 Mbps) | Up to 1800 sq ft Coverage & 30 Devices | 4 x 1G Ethernet and 1 x 3.0 USB ports | Armor Security

It's a pretty great deal. I bought the AC1900 for this price, on sale, a year ago.

Speaking of which, I use gigabit internet and have the AC1900 and it works wonders, and it is also on sale for $110 on the same page. Great deal. I'd say Chief even.

I was having constant disconnects from launch until about a month ago. Then I bought a newer modem and router.

Modem: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781VN7W5/
Router: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C65K9H9/

For the past month, with that hardware, I've had almost no disconnects at all. They still happen rarely, but usually I can play for hours on end.

For reference, playing on Xbox with Comcast internet.

Type|Amazon|3rd Party New

---|:---|:---
Lowest|$118.99 on Sep 05, 2018|$139.99 on Jun 04, 2018
Highest|$169.99 on May 04, 2018|$159.99 on Jul 23, 2018

3C link

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07C65K9H9/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

The next step down I'd recommend that R6900P at about $150

Down from that, I'd say something like the R6700 although you lose MU-MIMO support. Which for you, may not be a big deal since you have a pretty low number of devices. The AC66U would be another good contender for this slot, but it's just slightly more expensive as of the time I'm writing this. But whichever of the 2 is cheaper for you will be a solid buy.

I would highly recommend never using the Panoramic equipment. It is just awful. Mostly because of the software internet providers put on them. I always recommend using a separate modem and router. I've always used Netgear and Arris and had little to no problems.

Modem: https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-Approved-SB8200-Frustration/dp/B07DY16W2Z/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2DJ0J7SG3DA6X&keywords=arris+sb8200&qid=1565029969&s=gateway&sprefix=arris+%2Caps%2C168&sr=8-3

Router: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-MU-MIMO-Parental-Controls/dp/B07C65K9H9/ref=sxin_3_ce-new-01_a50e438e-b9c5-4857-95c5-e9a8227f2ee6?keywords=Netgear+wireless+router&pd_rd_i=B07C65K9H9&pd_rd_r=adaf8ce6-effa-41d9-8093-1cddf5498575&pd_rd_w=wwpRr&pd_rd_wg=JQ13G&pf_rd_p=6e662c71-232f-4034-826f-67e8c1cca129&pf_rd_r=RGXVTD3STMY90SWVZQSH&qid=1565029990&s=gateway

Less expensive router, but still good: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-MU-MIMO-Parental-Controls/dp/B07C65K9H9/ref=sxin_3_ce-new-01_a50e438e-b9c5-4857-95c5-e9a8227f2ee6?keywords=Netgear+wireless+router&pd_rd_i=B07C65K9H9&pd_rd_r=adaf8ce6-effa-41d9-8093-1cddf5498575&pd_rd_w=wwpRr&pd_rd_wg=JQ13G&pf_rd_p=6e662c71-232f-4034-826f-67e8c1cca129&pf_rd_r=RGXVTD3STMY90SWVZQSH&qid=1565029990&s=gateway

First, for a modem+router to work you need to receive service from a internet service provider (Cox, At&T, etc.) not from a mobile carrier (T-Mobile, Sprint). Do you already receive receive service from a internet service provider? Someone would be paying them a monthly fee and you would be receiving internet to your home from a cable/coax outlet or a DSL outlet.

Second, Nighthawk equipment is typically targeted to intense internet usage. Nighthawk's maximum capabilities will generally not be realized unless you are paying for the highest internet subscription from your ISP and also using multiple network-taxing PCs for gaming, livestreaming, and downloading. If all you want is faster internet for a few home devices like phones, you can use a cheaper modem and a cheaper router.

The first Nighthawk router you linked is designed for train stations and mansions with all smart appliances, not for typical home use. There's probably no reason for you to fork over $450 for it.

The second Nighthawk router you listed for 60 GHz, which means super fast speed but doesn't work outside of close proximity (like 10 feet). While 60 GHz chips have been developed, basically no commercial devices use them, only prototypes. I imagine 60 GHz will eventually be used for 4K streaming to smart TVs located near the router, but it's just not worth forking over $400.

Third, pick a modem that matches the speed of your subscription with your ISP. Here is a guide for picking a cable modem. Basically, higher DOCSIS version number (3.1 vs 3.0) and higher number of channels (32 vs 16 vs 8) means higher capabilities and more expensive. For typical home internet use, DOCSIS 3.0 cable modem with 8 channels is plenty. This is the type of cable modem I have, and it supports my 100 Mbps internet subscription. A DOCSIS 3.0 cable modem with 8 channels should be about $50. If you really want to make sure you match your internet subscription, you can get a DOCSIS 3.0 cable modem with 16 channels for about $80-$90. You probably don't need the Nighthawk DOCSIS 3.1 cable modem with 32 channels that you listed, which is about $150.

Here is a guide for picking a DSL modem. Basically, a VDSL modem has higher capability than an ADSL modem. An ADSL modem might not be fast enough for your typical home use, but you can get an ADSL modem for about $40-$50. VDSL modems should work for your typical home use. VDSL modems are usually sold a as a combination modem+router, rather than a standalone modem. You can get a VDSL modem+router with a faster router half for about $120+. You can get a VDSl modem+router with a slower router half for about $70.

Fourth, pick a router that suits your home use. You want a router that (1) has fast speed and (2) has enough range for a signal to reach you based on your home size. Here is a brief guide of routers speed. Basically, WiFi "AC" protocol is the standard for home use, and higher numbers after the "AC" (AC 1900 vs AC 1750) means faster speed. AC 1200 routers are typically about $405-$50. AC 1750 routers are typically about $80. AC 1900 routers are typically about $120. You might notice the speed difference between 1200 and 1900. You probably won't notice the speed difference between 1750 and 1900. Anything above 1900 you probably won't be able to tell the difference.

There isn't really a guide on router range. Router manufacturers have collectively agreed not to advertise their signal strengths. So you have to look around the internet for reviews, or do your own tests. You can do you own tests by buying multiple routers, using any of the millions of free Wi-Fi strength apps on the app store, and returning the the routers with lower strength. I tested some routers this way and ended up keeping this router.

I prefer standalone routers. They sometimes perform better than combination modem+routers because designers didn't have to worry about incorporating a modem. Also, I can swap them out without having to buy a new modem. However, you can also buy a combination modem+router to save space. But make sure the modem half matches your internet subscription, and the router half matches your home use. By paying for a decent internet subscription, matching my modem to the internet subscription, and matching my router to my home, I have the best in-home WiFi of any of my friends.

EDIT: Fifth, wait for Black Friday and Cyber Monday electronics deals. Electronics usually go on sale the weekend after Thanksgiving. You might be able to pick up compatible modems and routers for cheaper.

[For Sale] Selling two great items.

Netgear Nighthawk Smart Wifi Router AC1900. Works perfectly, was at my parents and used for a minimal amount of devices. Retails at $125 on Amazon and $150 everywhere else. Selling for $80 $70, now $60. Really need to sell.

Huffy Good Vibrations Cruiser Bike. Link is to the color scheme of the bike. In great condition and rarely used. I love this bike to be honest, just having a rough period financially. Really fun to ride. Retails from $130-160. Selling for $50. sold.

Edit: lowered prices

Check Amazon today for deals on Netgear stuff! Here's one that will fit your requirements.

Alternatively, if you want to go two separate devices: modem and router option.

>I can't buy a unifi setup due to low budget.

No, you do not need to buy a switch or a cloud key. All you need is the modem, a quality router, and a Unifi AP. Your router acts as a switch since it generally has 5 Ethernet ports, so the AP will just plug into the router. The cloud key is only for the Ubiquiti controller software. It's basically a dedicated mini-computer that runs the controller software for those who want to manage their devices remotely and get better statistical information. The cloud key is completely optional even though they say it's necessary. The controller software can be installed on your computer at home for the purpose of setup and that's it. Once you set it up, it's really powerful and extends your range quite drastically - I highly recommend. Just be sure to change the SSID and password to the same as your router, so that it handles wifi handoff on your devices.

This is the Unifi AP that I got. I would recommend at least a dual-band AC router with MIMO technology. There's plenty out there where you don't have to break bank, just pick a company that you want to support. I personally like Asus and I've heard great things about Netgear Nighthawk models. Either Asus A3200 or Netgear Nighthawk R6900P. Pair that with a good modem, such asMotorola Surfboard SB8200 (modem will depend completely on what your ISP supports, so don't buy that one unless you know). With this entire setup, you're looking at roughly $400. Even if you don't want to go the AP route, just going with a good router and modem to start will give you an idea of your wireless in your home/office. Unfortunately, working with a wireless signal isn't a one shot type of project. It requires several steps, but first start with the equipment that's feeding your internet.

You also didn't really explain anything in regards to your home/office setup: square footage, brick/drywall, metal obstacles, etc. All of these things play a factor in RF attenuation. You also didn't talk about your setup. Are we talking about being mobile with a phone and laptop, or is there a desktop involved? Are there streaming devices involved?

I haven't heard good things about either a range extender or a mesh system, but it works for some people. If you have a desktop computer, a USB network interface card would do you good.