#19,339 in Electronics
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Reddit mentions of Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 Fan (140x140x25mm 3-pin, 2000rpm, IP52)
Sentiment score: 2
Reddit mentions: 3
We found 3 Reddit mentions of Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 Fan (140x140x25mm 3-pin, 2000rpm, IP52). Here are the top ones.
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Award-winning NF-A14 design2000rpm industrialPPC versionThree-phase motor design, Class-leading energy efficiency, Fibre-glass reinforced polyamide constructionCertified IP52 water- and dust protection, Flow Acceleration Channels, Inner Surface Microstructures
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 5.5118 Inches |
Length | 5.5118 Inches |
Size | 140x140x25 mm |
Weight | 0.6834330122 Pounds |
Width | 0.98425 Inches |
I went the basement route, in a storage closet.
I put an exhaust vent in the wall with two 12v 140mm Noctua fans, found an AC vent grill at Lowes that they fit perfectly into. Those particular fans blow a TON of air and are pretty quiet.
Then I put a filtered intake vent into the bottom of the door.
The exhaust fans create a vacuum inside the closet and suck air in through the intake. It keeps the closet at the exact same temperature as the rest of the basement.
edit - grammar
This manipulation will make your laptop a bit more bumpy chassis-wise and I won't take any responsibility if something goes wrong :P (Don’t forget to think about the warranty)
I am a lurker but I can really understand your feelings since I was in the same situation (same laptop) before however, I was able to fix this, let me explain How to avoid TDP-downs:
After dealing with multiple slim laptops and also thanks Reddit for some data, I have concluded that these are the main types of throttling linked with the thermals:
My laptop was not thermal throttling but power limiting (except at TDP-high but that’s not the issue) so I skipped it.
To begin the fix you will need to buy these thermal pads (personally I bought two):
https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Minus-High-Performance/dp/B00ZJS8RWQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526667081&sr=8-1&keywords=TG-MP8-120-20-10-1R
So, I have sacrificed my laptop to check it, and after removing the black foil there are indeed some VRMs that are not under the heat sink. I have a very empirical way to find them (I don’t have a thermal camera unfortunately).
Launch TS Bench from ThrottleStop and then on the back of the computer, near the CPU, try to find very hot components (the ones that are barely too hot to touch) then place 3-4 thermal pads on them so that it can reach the chassis of the laptop.
Of course this is not enough, and that’s where the cooler joins in, I found two coolers that are really useful:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F3971YK/ref=twister_B01F3971X6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://i.imgur.com/8IpUd4b.jpg
The cross-flow fan is easier and cheaper to use however it is not as efficient as the next one, the laptop will be able to, at long term and at least, use 14W at 24°C ambient temperature. However, I would still buy it for travels etc.
This one is not hard to do but requires some money but I suppose that budget won’t be your issue since the laptop itself is quite expensive already.
For this you will need:
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-industrialPPC-2000-140x140x25mm-2000rpm/dp/B00KESSI2A/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526667148&sr=1-1&keywords=B00KESSI2A
https://www.amazon.com/140mm-Black-Grill-Guard-screws/dp/B01M2YI7BM/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526667587&sr=1-3&keywords=fan+grill+140mm
https://www.amazon.com/FAN2USB-12V-USB-Converting-Adapter/dp/B00MNB40ZU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526667190&sr=8-1&keywords=FAN2USB
https://www.amazon.com/Urbo-Adjustable-Heat-Vent-Elevate-Notebooks/dp/B01I0KN91I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526667370&sr=8-2&keywords=urbo+stand
The hole is where we are going to place the fan and the height will help the fan to get more air, so that is very important.
https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-Nylon-Resistant-Cable-White/dp/B00UJ95URU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526667534&sr=8-1&keywords=Cable+Tie+Set+400
Optionally you can also buy a voltage regulator to turn it off but yeah unplugging the USB do the work too haha:
https://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526667258&sr=1-1&keywords=FANMATE2
After it is done and placed your laptop on it, you should be able to play all night without seeing the laptop throttling.
I tried to exceed the 15W, but this step is probably impossible, with the cooling I was able to stay a few more seconds at almost 30W but even after dealing with max TDP via Throttlestop, it throttles down. I just think that HP has limited its device to 15W for long term state (no matter the thermals or power) which is quite understandable but still it would be nice to unlock it.
I have for instance set the TDP max at 16W with ThrottleStop (so just a little bit more) and it still throttles after around 30 seconds to 15W with the cooler, I don’t know if I will give up but with -100mV undervolting I am able to reach STABLE 2.8ghz at full load, at 15W, so it is not that bad for a convertible 13-inch laptop.
I would like to post more photos however I am on a trip for months, so I can't right now.
Feel free to ask me any questions!
EDIT: formatting because 1st post
EDIT 2:
Here is how I placed my thermal pads:
https://i.imgur.com/0fHQTIl.jpg
I have also stressed my laptop for almost 15min non-stop with my cross-flow fan, here are the results showing a stable performance:
https://i.imgur.com/h9Tq2fU.png
https://i.imgur.com/j5P8osg.png
http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-industrialPPC-2000-140x140x25mm-2000rpm/dp/B00KESSI2A
And then to make their corners white get these
http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NA-SAVP1-Chromax-Anti-Vibration-Mount/dp/B018SOU7AM
Or the black mounts to make it 100% black.
Set them to about 800rpm and job done.