Reddit mentions of Res-Up Liquid Resin Cleaner Feeder - 0.4 oz Feeder w/Yellow Tube

Okay, so this'll be pretty close to what you want. I'm not sure if you're going to order the stuff off of Amazon or go to a local supply house, but I'll link you the bulk of the stuff and do up a little drawing to give you an idea of how I'd put this stuff together.

Softener:

https://www.amazon.com/Fleck-Demand-Softener-Capacity-Commercial/dp/B01K5V8BOU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487723196&sr=8-1&keywords=clack+softener

or

https://thewaterfilterestore.com/collections/water-softeners-and-tannin-filters-the-water-filter-estore/products/deluxe-water-softener-27-000-grain

I prefer the Clack softener heads, but Fleck makes good stuff too and are usually a little less expensive. The Fleck unit is larger than you probably need and the Clack unit is probably a little on the small side. Personally I'd get a 35K grain unit with either Fleck or Clack head on it.

https://www.amazon.com/Res-Up-Liquid-Resin-Cleaner-Feeder/dp/B007LZ0CT6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487724267&sr=8-1&keywords=res+up+feeder

https://www.amazon.com/ResCare-RK41N-All-Purpose-Softener-Cleaner/dp/B00TQGNA5G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487724267&sr=8-2&keywords=res+up+feeder

Get some of that stuff too. The feeder goes into the brine tank of your softener and needs to be filled a few times a year. Takes care of your softener media, extending the life of your softener and helps especially if you have a bit of iron in the water.

Sediment & sterilization:

https://thewaterfilterestore.com/collections/ultraviolet-disinfection-water-filters-the-water-filter-estore/products/uv-dynamics-ultraviolet-uv-mini-rack-solenoid-mr320-tp2-110?variant=1016345763

So the MR320 rack is what I typically install, however I usually just go with the single sump model, which I can't find on that site. They're a nice economical unit that are super easy to install and maintain with inexpensive lamps, lenses, and filters. The only caveat is that you have to install your own bypass, but that's not difficult to do and I'll explain it below.

if your pressure tank is shot, replace it with either a Flexcon WR120R or FL12

http://www.flexconind.com/products/well-tanks/wellrite-well-tanks/

http://www.flexconind.com/products/well-tanks/flexlite-well-tanks/

Tank tee:

https://www.boshart.com/product.php?id=Fa8fdsPcWPkl2WsXiXOJi72RHhXH-DFJdbUWZzdRyf0_ for the WR120R

https://www.boshart.com/product.php?id=r3LQkDEAxP1ic-h3E991I-QZn7qGr5N5tpc0xGUPM9g_ for the FL12

if/when you get the tank tee, you can get it as a package with a sediment tap, pressure relief valve, pressure gauge, 0.25" x 3" brass nipple, and a 40/60 pressure switch. Boshart has the kits on their site, but your supplier will have them put together already. I prefer Square D pressure switches to Boshart or Furnas, but it doesn't really matter that much.

Okay, so I'm going to submit this and then do my drawing and share some photos of a previous install that will be similar to yours.

Edit: http://m.imgur.com/mU8dgLk

So here's a pretty idea install which yours would be similar to. Going to do my drawing now.

Super shitty drawing for the tank set up:

http://m.imgur.com/a/5NEnvuO

If you can't read my chicken scratch you'll need to get: a 1" spring check valve, two 1" ball valves, two 2" (long) x 1" brass or 316 stainless nipples, a 1" bronze tee, two bronze or nylon insert couplings, two 1" bronze insert adaptors, one 1" by 0.75" bronze bushing, probably about 8' (to have lots) of 1" braided flex hose, couple bags of all stainless steel 1" hose clamps (#14 I think).

Splice the poly lines and replace all that weird shit you've got there with the flex hose. So it'll be like line in -> insert adaptor -> check valve -> tank tee -> bronze tee -> nipples and ball valves (one ball valve gets your bushing and the other gets the second insert adaptor which goes to the line out).

From the bushing, put in a 0.75" pex adaptor and go to your softener. From the softener, take pex to your mini rack. Now, you're going to want isolation valves around the mini rack too. Two more 0.75" pipe thread ball valves, or you can use PEX valves, it doesn't really matter. To do your bypass, you just need to tee off before and after your isolation valves, with one more ball valve in the middle. This allows you to completely bypass the filter and rack for service or if something happens to it and you still need water.