Reddit mentions of SC Johnson Paste Wax- 16 oz (1lb)

If you want to protect and soften which darkens the leather of the boots uniformly, and that I recommend, use this product. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41oFIiQbhxL._AC_UL320_SR246,320_.jpg It has the consistency almost and look of corn oil, and has been used for a very long time by people looking to protect and make leather products last for as long as possible. Your boots will absorb the oil like a sponge, if you have done nothing after cleaning them, and it will waterproof the leather, and keep it from getting water blemishes in the future. Leather absorbing moisture or water and drying out hurts it. Aging leather will also dry out, with or without water. Dry makes it fragile. And from the look of it, your boots are very very dry, and unprotected. You can apply the oil with a small paintbrush 1” wide. Again, the oil will darken the leather, but the boots will become softer than new. I would guess that from my experience , your boots after the oil, because they are kind of orange in color, will become closer to this color.
http://www.sheplers.com/Red-Wing-Irish-Setter-Ashby-Work-Boots-Aluminum-Toe/57301.pro?parentCategoryId=448&categoryId=449&subCategoryId=2289
If you want to stiffen up the leather a little bit after applying the oil, and apply additional protection, apply some paste wax to the boots with a dry wash cloth or the same 1“ brush used with the oil. This product or one similar will further protect and water proof your boots, and keep the leather from rotting or cracking.

The paste wax will darken the leather if applied first or only to the boots, which you can opt for, but will not darken the boots any more if applied after the oil. The wax will fill the stitching seams of the boots and provide additional water protection. The oil should not be applied to the boots after the wax. http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Fine-Wood-Paste-00203/dp/B0000DIWIM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458430009&sr=8-1&keywords=johnson+paste+wax
Those 2 products applied are probably the best things that you can do for those beautiful boots to make em happy and last. Enjoy.

Arm-R-Seal is an oil-based urethane. You wouldn't want to use a polyurethane over it; you're essentially finished. 3 coats of that stuff should be fine, adding any more is kind of unnecessary. The only time you add more layers of finish is when you're working with tung oil, shellac, or high-end finishes like conversion poly/lacquer.

Your best bet would be to possibly shine this up with some Johnsons Paste Wax that you can buy at Lowes or Home Depot if you don't use Amazon. Wait a week or 2 to let the finish gas off, and dry up a bit more, and use this paste wax every 6 months to a year. It's been around forever, and works really well.

Edit - If you haven't, make sure you've sealed the bottom of the butcher's block as well. You don't want one side sealed, and the other unsealed; granted, this type of butcher's block with multiple pieces glued together will not move as much as a panel glue up would, but it's still a good practice to always finish the bottom as well.

Patinas look great, imo. That first picture is glorious.

If you want to keep the shine or patina for a bit longer and give it a little protection, go over it with some Paste Wax

I'd do the maintenance routine just to be sure it's ready to roll. Details are in the owners manual. Basically, air compressor and blow out the power head. Light oil on the sheaves in the oil holes, any light oil like 3-in-1 will work but I like zoomspout because you can get down to the lower sheaves without having to take the headstock cover off. Graphite lube on all the controls and threaded components, paste wax on the way tubes, table, quill and any other unpainted parts.

It's not critical immediately, but you probably want to wire cup those bottom tubes at some point to get all the rust off and then paste wax to prevent future rusting.

I'd pick up a Penn State shopsmith adapter for the lathe, and then you can use any standard 1x8tpi lathe chuck. The barracuda 2 is a great kit that covers everything you need for small to mid-size turnings and is much more affordable than a nova or oneway chuck. Pick up a tailstock live center or two if you don't have one. While you are at penn state, pick up the shopsmith compatible pen mandrel if you want to try pen turning.

Shopsmith sells the jacob's chuck you need for the drill press. Used ones are a little cheaper on ebay. You might also want a tailstock drill chuck (or a cheaper one from harbor freight) for the lathe, especially if you fancy trying pen turning.

Make sure you have a power coupler or two, you need them for the bandsaw/jointer.

If you need any parts (bearings, belts, switches, etc) for your shopsmith, try Jacob's Repair Shop before you order from the mothership, he sources parts that are cheaper and higher quality than the stock ones.

Johnson’s Paste Wax. Just follow the instructions on the can, buff in with a cloth, let it sit a few minutes then buff back off.

Before wax my stock would get about 2’ in then get stuck. Now everything goes through like butter.

Floor/paste wax. It's a fairly hard wax that gives you a protective layer. Use it on anything that slides including:

• way tubes
  
• table tops including the main table, floating tables, bandsaw/sander/jointer table
  
• tubes on the tables and accessories
  
• the holes said tubes are inserted into
  
• rip fence
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Fine-Wood-Paste-00203/dp/B0000DIWIM/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1505853535&sr=8-13&keywords=Floor+Wax
  
  ****
  
  if you need to clean it, use low odor mineral spirits. This will not only remove normal grim, but also old wax and any tar/pitch/sap from wood that you've cut.
  
  

Thank you very much! I did the fast-drying - I almost exclusively use that product for poly.

The wax was a paste wax to buff the final finish and clean up any imperfections the poly might have left. It's similar to a wet sanding, without getting too technical. I used 0000 steel wool and put the steel wool in the wax, buffed it onto the box, then let it sit for a minute or two, and then removed the wax and buffed it with a shop(lint free) towel.
http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Fine-Wood-Paste-00203/dp/B0000DIWIM

The humidor I made out of Tiger Maple with a Spanish Cedar lining. It's approximately 6' tall, 2.5' wide, and 1.5' deep. I'll link some pictures for you!

Edit1 Response: I used the MinWax sanding Sealer, that comes in the white can: http://www.amazon.com/Minwax-65700-Water-Based-Sanding-Sealer/dp/B004Y6TTKI

Edit2 Response: So I sanded the box with 150, 220, 400, and 800 with my orbital until it was as smooth as I could get it. With Zebrawood it seems like the grain stands up, and I could be using the wrong term, but part of the wood will pop up with almost small slivers, that will need to be buffed out. Essentially the grain was raised up and it really only does it on the first coat that gets applied. If you ever work with Zebrawood you'll know exactly what I'm saying - one of those things that's hard to explain without a sample in front of me.

FYI - I'm more than happy to answer any of your questions!

paste wax is what I use on my planes / blades, and table saw cast iron for that matter.

http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Fine-Wood-Paste-00203/dp/B0000DIWIM

Live in FL, everything rusts if I don't put a nice coat of this stuff on it

I work in an Ornimental metal shop. For things like this that don't get abuse by weather we almost always use Johnson's Paste wax. Most clients only need to apply it once a year.

You can use some paste wax like this. I put it on my drill press support column and also any cast iron tables that might rust.

Inletting Action screws
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/stock-work-finishing/stock-making-accessories/inletting-guide-screws/inletting-guide-screws-prod6644.aspx

Johnson Paste Wax
https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Fine-Wood-Paste-00203/dp/B0000DIWIM

Modeling clay
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ICK046/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use Johnson paste wax.

After refinishing old tools using electrolysis to remove all traces of rust, I've had good success using (Johnson's Furniture Wax)[https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Fine-Wood-Paste-00203/dp/B0000DIWIM] to rub into to the metal to protect it.

Some items I get very hot with a torch then rub oil into the metal. This works similar to seasoning a cast-iron pan.

In general, I'm sticking with the furniture wax. It's easiest and provides a good sealing finish. (I didn't come up with this, I did the research after deciding to remove rust using electrolysis.)

Good idea, but that stuff looks expensive. A cheaper alternative would be Johnson Paste wax. It is cheap, almost every store sells it (my little local grocery store carries it) and one can will probably last you a lifetime and your grandchildren. My other hobby is woodworking and I use this stuff ALL THE TIME and I am only half way through one can in 10 years.

sounds like it could be tinted paste wax. Easy fix for them, not a particulrly protective or durable solution unless the varnish beneath is in good shape. If they waxed freshly sanded flooring, I would recommend stripping the wax (mineral spirits wash, etc), then applying several coats of polyurethane.

Was it SC Johnson's Paste Wax?

I just use plane old Johnsons Paste wax. Might be better stuff out there as already mentioned in this link. Here's what I used last weekend:
http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Fine-Wood-Paste-00203/dp/B0000DIWIM/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421962287&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=johnsson+paste+wax

This. Johnsons paste Wax.

Johnson Wax 16 Oz Fine Wood Paste Wax 00203 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DIWIM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5xmxxbEA4SRFM