Reddit mentions of StarTech.com 3 ft USB to Type M Barrel 5V DC Power Cable - Power cable - USB (power only) (M) to DC jack 5.5 mm (M) - 3 ft - molded - black - USB2TYPEM

Easy way to make really obnoxious portable LED projects:

1. Aquire the items below.
   
2. Play with them. ("oooohhh ahhhhh... Why doesn't my brain let me sleep with these as a nightlight?")
   
3. Hack them into new things.
   
4. |<0>=<0>|
   
5. Ghosts and stuff
   
   
   
   USB Battery for 5v power. Minimum 2A output.
   
   USB to barrel jack adapter
   
   Radio Remote Control - lots of options here
   
   Extra connectors
   
   ws2812b LED strips

Or you could just buy a cord like that instead of destroying your power adapter.

Occuli is the plural of Oculus, however the product is the Rift, so the plural would be Oculus Rifts :-p

Also, this is neato, but for the simplicity of it, I just bought myself one of these and I've never even taken the power adapter out of my devkit box: Startech 5v to usb

This should work

http://www.amazon.ca/Startech-Com-Barrel-Power-Cable-USB2TYPEM/dp/B003MQO96U

someone pointed me towards this cable rather than the hack and slash.
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB2TYPEM-Barrel-Power-Cable/dp/B003MQO96U

but it didn't try it yet

I bought a $7 USB power cable from Amazon. My power brick is put away in the case. No mods necessary. Plug and play.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MQO96U/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1. If you have trouble with the lenses fogging, Quick Spit seems to work wonders. A lot comes out per spray, though, so it's best to hold the Rift upside down while spraying it to avoid fluid running into the screen area. Polish the excess off with lens cloth.
   
   
2. Yes, they say that the "A" lenses are proper for people with 20/20. But the "B" lenses present no problems for most people and allow you to dial the screen in closer to your eyes without brushing your eyelashes. The closer the screen, the wider the FOV.
   
   
3. While the Rift technically draws a little more power than the USB spec provides, I've yet to encounter a USB port that couldn't power it. If you pick up the proper cable you can ditch the wall wart and have one less wire to trip over.
   
   
4. Overwhelmingly, it's better to run at 60 FPS (or whatever Hz you're running at if you're overclocking the display) with lower graphics settings than 59 FPS at best graphics settings. Because each frame misses its target refresh and has to be displayed on the following one, missing your target refresh rate by even 1 FPS will drop the number of displayed frames by half and double your latency. Yes, when it says 59FPS, you're only seeing 30FPS. And that's a MUCH bigger deal in a HMD than on a monitor.
   
   
5. Even though the screen is 1280x800, running at higher resolutions actually makes a striking difference in visual quality. Why? Downsampling effectively acts as high-end anti-aliasing. For this reason, text is often much more readable when running at higher resolutions.
   
   
6. If you don't mind a little risk (and your machine is capable of driving the required frame rates), it's possible to run most DK1s at up to 72Hz without obvious distortion (and up into the low 80s if you're bolder and more tolerant of visual artifacts). The reduction in blur and improvement in responsiveness is striking. These settings worked fabulously for me in Win7 and stock Win 8, but using them after an upgrade to 8.1 went very, very poorly for me. Note that you must either extend your desktop or make the DK1 your primary monitor in clone mode for it to work. I had to delete the stock resolution settings after adding the custom ones before Windows would allow me to select into the higher refresh rates (in the advanced properties for the DK1 "monitor").
   
   
7. If you love trippy stuff, SoundSelf is something else. You'll need a microphone.
   
   
8. Sometimes it's nice just to mellow out in the Rift. Blue Marble is perfect for this because dropping your own music (converted to OGG) into the music folder lets you select the music, and the speed at which you drift away from earth will be timed to the length of the music. Drop "Shine on You Crazy Diamond I-IX" by Pink Floyd in the folder, kick back, and spend the first 5 minutes of the 26 minute trip drifting slowly backwards out of the aurora borealis watching meteorites skip off the atmosphere. It's heavenly.

I got this: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB2TYPEM-Barrel-Power-Cable/dp/B003MQO96U

You can put a laptop in a bag and go anywhere. Make sure your USB ports can actually supply the power needed.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MQO96U/

A bit heavier cable, should stand up better if you are going to travel around with it, I have one of these but no rift to test yet.

I know some Oculus users have paired this cable with their rifts.

Considering some laptops have been known to last 4 hours+ running movies/gameplay you could probably just run a rift off of a laptop.

I would not recommend running it out of a backpack though, because computers need to breathe. Otherwise your computer will be toast before you can say "bacon and eggs".

I'm not sure why but I can't reply to other comments other than this one.

This reply is directed toward where you talk about usb powered oculus rift. I learned 2 ways to power it through usb which are really easy.

The D.I.Y Route (Bottom post)

And the Lazy I can spend 5 bucks route

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Description|In this video, I take my sister's broken record player, take out all the old parts, and put in the new bluetooth components. ⤶new parts list:⤶⤶female power jack: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJAW9F4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1⤶⤶5v male power jack to usb:⤶https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MQO96U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1⤶⤶5v wall charger:⤶https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XUY0DFU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1⤶⤶aux cord (3.5mm): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078F718PM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1⤶⤶bluetooth receiver board: ⤶https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FU12QC8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1⤶⤶amplifier board: ⤶https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077MKQJW2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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will this work? any normal 5V phone charger with female USB port should work right?

This^
Mine runs off a USB port on my Mac mini.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003MQO96U

I would start by getting the correct power to the bridge. Right now, you are given the bridge twice the wattage it needs (W= V * A), so I'm not sure if the bridge is fried or not. But, to start to see if it will connect, find the correct power cord, or buy a USB to Type M barrel cord, like this: https://www.amazon.com/USB-Type-Barrel-Power-Cable/dp/B003MQO96U/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1536135872&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+to+5v+dc+cable

and use an Apple charger to power it. If the bridge doesn't connect after given it the right amount of power, then using the wrong power cord may have killed it.

Instead of trying the hack and risking a non-functional Rift, I would buy one of these: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB2TYPEM-Barrel-Power-Cable/dp/B003MQO96U I heard that it works great.

brillient! thanks! :)

edit: so something like this I guess:

car charger

cable

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: http://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB2TYPEM-Barrel-Power-Cable/dp/B003MQO96U


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|UK|www.amazon.co.uk|Macmillan|
|Spain|www.amazon.es||
|France|www.amazon.fr||
|Germany|www.amazon.de||
|Japan|www.amazon.co.jp||
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||
|Italy|www.amazon.it||
|India|www.amazon.in||




To help add charity links, please have a look at this thread.

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If its 5 volts its 5 volts, doesn't matter where from. In case you're wondering, this cable exists. If its more than it wouldn't work. I know it comes with its own power supply, but that's an extra plug I have to worry about, which just adds to the mess of cables under my desk :(

ok, so I suppose I need to check my motherboard specs. I tried plugging it in with this thing: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB2TYPEM-Barrel-Power-Cable/dp/B003MQO96U/

and it appeared to turn on.

It's not the base adapter I need it's more like This but I'm not sure if that's the right one