Reddit mentions of StarTech.com 8in 24 Pin ATX 2.01 Power Extension Cable - Power extension cable - 24 pin ATX (M) to 24 pin ATX (F) - 7.9 in - ATX24POWEXT

Build details:

Streacom FC8 Alpha case - $190

Ryzen 5 2400G - $169

Gigabyte GA-AB350N-Wifi - $125

G.Skill 2x4GB 3200 DDR4 - $115

Mini-Box picoPSU-120-WI-25 - $60

19V 120W AC Adapter - $18

CPU power connector - $5

ATX extension - $6

So the case is WAY expensive, but options with internal passive cooling hardware aren't exactly frequent, and the build quality is great. The Motherboard did pose a little trouble, since it came with an ancient bios... But I kinda knew that might happen. I have another PC with an 1800x, so I just borrowed it for a bit to do the bios update.

With the build complete, stress testing using intelburntest on extreme does get it a little hotter than I like - quickly rises into the 60's and by the time it really plateaus it's in the low 80s. Admittedly, that's sustained stress, so probably not a concern, but I felt a little better after underclocking to 3.4 and pulling the voltage back to 1.18 max using the pstate OC options. After that, it now never breaks mid-60s under stress, and cinebench score dropped from 880 to 818 - acceptable for the particular use case. I also tested heat buildup in the 3dmark paraglider stress test, and video underclocking wasn't necessary. Underclocking will also likely help with the power limitations --- Although in both stress tests, power was a non-issue, the PSU is just 120w. One side note about psu selection: There are a lot of picoPSUs out there, but almost all of them NEED 12v from the brick, and just directly pass that 12v input to the 12 rail. That's a good solution, but 19v high-current bricks are a LOT less expensive than the 12v equivalents. Especially when you consider the possibility of replacing a brick, I think it's a better solution to get the slightly more expensive picoPSU that accepts higher input voltages (12-24 all OK). Plus, that means the 12v rail is likely better regulated than raw output from a brick.

The PC is my wife's - She just changed jobs, and her computer resides in our bedroom. She uses it for some Android development, accessing her work vm, general purpose pc (browsing, bills, you know), skype, and some light gaming. The old one was a basic build with inexpensive PSU, so when it was on it was crazy loud. Now?

Utter. Dead. Silence :) Also a LOT less space occupied. Total cost was just under $700. Case was of course a huge part of that expense.

Edit to add: forgot to mention, had a MyDigitalSSD 240g m.2 drive in hand already, so that's the drive in use here.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-8-Inch-Power-Extension-ATX24POWEXT/dp/B000FL60AI

https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Sleeved-Extension-Connector-PP07-EPS8B/dp/B00B46XJRU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1483998298&sr=1-1&keywords=8+pin+cpu+extension

https://www.amazon.com/ATX-Power-Supply-Extension-Cable/dp/B000BSLPZA

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-8-Inch-Power-Extension-ATX24POWEXT/dp/B000FL60AI

Are you doing this for fun or practice?

$8CAD with Prime shipping for a pre-made extension cable. Pay the extra shipping and have it in a day for under $10USD.

To answer your question - no, it shouldn't matter. I won't say "doesn't" because weirder things have happened though.

If you can't find the appropriate extension lead, you can buy a regular ATX 24-pin one and just leave the extra pins unused, or chop them off if they don't fit. It's exactly the same connector, just with more pins and different wire colors.

Obviously, you sholud verify that it's a 1:1 pin mapping, there are no crossovers between pins on one side vs the other, and there are no missing pins in the part that you're trying to use; otherwise there is a risk of damaging the hardware. If you see it doesn't work out (before turning it on!), it is possible to move pins inside the connector without any special tools.

Ah, you might just have to buy an extension. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-8-Inch-8-Pin-Extension-EPS8EXT/dp/B000M802RG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484877417&sr=8-1&keywords=cpu+power+cable+extension

or https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-8-Inch-Power-Extension-ATX24POWEXT/dp/B000FL60AI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484877431&sr=8-3&keywords=24+pin+power+cable+extension

Depending on if you need 8 / 24 pin

One of these

Then follow these instructions.

ಠ_ಠ what case are you using that is so big?
Replace your power supply?

EDIT:

http://www.universalmania.net/index.do?type=productDetail&productId=11729472&categoryId=10188

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FL60AI/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_2?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000V6R3Z8&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0N00SMMVCCQA5ZH9948P

both for 12 bucks?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812162006

A 24-pin extender is a quick fix. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-8-Inch-Power-Extension-ATX24POWEXT/dp/B000FL60AI. If you're going for performance and professional quality, I'd say I've never regretted my decision to invest in a Molex crimp tool like this: https://www.amazon.com/HT-225D-Cycle-Ratchet-Crimping-interchangeable/dp/B007JLN93S?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1. A 24-pin connector isn't a fun one to mess with, but being able to custom wire your case exactly as you need it comes with some real benefits, and there are a surprising number of options for optimizing wire management.

TL;DR An extender will do the job fine, just not optimally, but if you're feeling adventurous then get a Molex crimp tool to make all the wiring just as you want it.

Yes, you can get something like this which isn't shielded so you have bare metal power connectors which you can easily short out if you drop a screw while the PC is on. Or you can get something like this that you can bend into any position you'd like to get it out of the way if that's all you're looking for.