Reddit mentions of The Rock Climber's Training Manual

Blood Meridian or The Evening Redness in the West, McCarthy. Climbing is an ultraviolent winner-take-all pursuit and this book will put you in the proper frame of mind.

Really, though: The Rock Climber's Training Manual, by the Anderson brothers (I think you can get it as a PDF too). I'm sure there are other books that are better but this is certainly a good start. It's geared towards roped climbing so I'm not sure if it's quite what you're looking for but it is really good. I read it a few times then followed an 18-week beginner training program.

Just incredible results. I've been climbing for over twenty years and had never done a specific training program, just the usual "Look, I'm training!" stuff in the gym. Prior to the training I expected to onsight most 5.9-10a trad, redpoint up to 10d-11b trad, onsight 10c-11a sport and redpoint 11d sport; all outside ratings since gyms don't really count. After the program all of this got bumped up 1-2 letter grades. More important than that, though, was that I was uninjured (nagging lifelong elbows/fingers), and much, much more fit. Also, I broke through what I'd considered a plateau and realized that (dependent on age/etc., I'm in my forties so expect to face age-related limits within 5-10 years) plateaus are, up to a point, not real; they're just the boundaries of our current training.

The training could be really boring and hard but I think that's what training is - you're not "fun climbing" but training for it. It changed my mindset and I'm about to start another training cycle since it's winter. As much as I love "just climbing" the truth for me is that I enjoy climbing much more when I'm doing harder routes. More fun all around and usually safer, too.

Hope this helps.

They're right, though. "Dedicated" is relative - someone who is already able to climb at least one v3/4 in a session, could be climbing v8 within 2~ years if they have a consistent plan and are doing something to train 3-4 days a week. In reality, you can do SOMETHING 7 days a week if you know how to plan it. There's no reason you can't take 20 minutes and do pushups, crunches and shoulder exercises on your off days for injury prevention maintenance if getting to v8 is important to you.

Even just doing ONE thing can make a big difference. I went from working 5.11b to flashing 5.11d (D!) outside just by adding regular crunches to my week.

Check out the books, The Rock Climbers Training Manual and Climb Injury-Free.

High single digit bouldering and hard 5.12 climbing is much more accessible than people realize. The hardest part is being consistent enough to develop quality technique and body awareness. Though once you get in the mindset of trying different beta, even if you think you've "got it" and going back to easier problems to see if you can figure out even more efficient ways to do them than you've used before.

Buy this book: https://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbers-Training-Manual/dp/0989515613/

It's very good and thorough.

Pick up a copy of:

The Self Coached Climber
9 out of 10 climbers
The Rock Climbers Training Manual

And join us over at /r/climbharder.

Definitely post your climbing training routine here and r/climbharder once your'e done.

Similar to you I started to training bwf here and have recently taken up climbing; I also will be developing a training routine.

What are you basing your routine off of? I recently ordered The Rock Climber's Training Manual and I'm excited to bring a more quantitative and scientific approach to my training.