#18 in Hand planes
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Reddit mentions of WoodRiver #4 Bench Plane, V3

Sentiment score: 1
Reddit mentions: 1

We found 1 Reddit mentions of WoodRiver #4 Bench Plane, V3. Here are the top ones.

WoodRiver #4 Bench Plane, V3
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Modeled after the Bedrocks, Stanley Tool's very best line2-7/16” W x 9-7/8”L with 2”W bladeWoodRiver planes feature the same heavy castings (5 lbs) and fully machined frogsLightly finished Bubinga handles provide comfort and control - Soles and sides are machined flat and square within tightly held tolerancesWoodRiver is proudly made by Woodcraft, America’s leading supplier of saws, planes, power tools, hand tools, wood stain and paint, routers, sanding, wood, kits, dust collection and more. Our award winning family of brands includes WoodRiver, Highpoint, Woodcraft and Woodcraft Magazine as well as the greatest selection of woodworking books, videos, and plans.
Specs:
Height3.2 Inches
Length10.65 Inches
Size#4
Weight5.35 Pounds
Width6 Inches
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Found 1 comment on WoodRiver #4 Bench Plane, V3:

u/joelav · 6 pointsr/woodworking

First, what is your goal? To prep stock by hand, to clean up after power tools? fine micro adjustments on tenons?

I'll just go through the order of operations and then you can decide what you will or won't use.

Start with a rough sawn board from the mill. Shaggy, cupped, and twisted.

Bench Planes

  1. Scrub plane. There are dedicated scrubs, like the Stanley #44 but they are rare. There are also new scrubs like the pinnacle (high end woodriver) and expensive. The best thing to do is get a rough around the edges #4, put a heavy camber on the blade, and widen the mouth.
    These are used to remove a lot of material, and generally used cross grain. Great for getting a rough board in shape, or getting a board to the required thickness.

  2. Jack Plane. In Stanley lingo, a #5. These are fairly long and wide, and they are used to clean up after your scrub plane. Because they are long and wide, they are good for getting things fairly flat. Generally used diagonal to the grain first, then with the grain.

  3. Jointer. These are long. A #7 is good for most things. A #8 is good if you work with boards over 6 feet long often. This will flatten the board. Because it's so long, it will skip over small low spots. So you will have a flat board, but not necessarily a smooth board

  4. A smoother. Stanley lingo #4, or the preferable and wider 4 1/2. This is what you use to get that flat board smooth. They are short, generally around 9". It should have a very tight mouth and set up to take a very light shaving.

    It's also used to get your piece ready for a final finish. That means cleaning up where joinery meets (like dovetails and half laps) and removing any machine marks, squeeze out, or clamping indentations.

    Because this is such a versatile sized plane, many people skip a #5 and just use a smoother. It will be your most used plane, so get a good one.

    Optional - A number 6 Fore plane. Many people substitute a scrub plane with a fore plane. You can also use it as a small jointer in spots where a jack is too small but a #7 is too big

    Specialty planes

    The block plane. Many people recommend a block in the initial purchase, but IME it's almost never the right tool for the job. Unless you need to scribe a door or cabinet really quick, a properly set up smoother is a better choice. If you have a really tight spot to get into or need to plane a very small, thin edge, a block is good.

    Shoulder plane - these are great for squaring up tenons and rabbets

    Rabbet plane - cutting rabbets

    Plough plane - Cutting dados

    As far as what to buy - Pre WWII (or even war time) Stanley bailey pattern represents the best value. They are as good as any plane sold today. However tuning them up can be tricky. You may think it's good but it still cuts like crap.

    I would recommend buying a brand new smoother for your first plane. That way you have a good frame of reference as to how a properly tuned plane works and can be adjusted.

    Good - woodriver V3. This is pretty much an exact reproduction of a Pre-WWII Stanley bedrock plane, but with a thicker iron. I also really like the T10 steel they use in their irons.

    Better/Best - Veritas No.4. Very high quality plane. Personally I hate the norris style adjustment.

    Best - Lie Nielsen #4 1/2. Yes, it costs almost as much as my tablesaw, but it's an amazing plane.