20327

Reddit reviews: The best power & hand tools

We found 31,293 Reddit comments discussing the best power & hand tools. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 12,060 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

Top Reddit comments about Power & Hand Tools:

u/Black6x · 38 pointsr/nyc

(Had to repost this because I used link shorteners to stay under char limit and it got auto-deleted, so this one is finally fixed)

I'm a native New Yorker, and I'll chime in as someone who was able to buy a place in NYC (brooklyn) before turning 30. Now, the prices have exploded in my area since I bought (2010), but there are other areas that are still in the "reasonable" range.

I was by no means rich. I'm not rich, but I technically own property that has appreciated so I "have" money on paper. I can't spend that money. I am the type of person subbed to r/frugal, /r/personalfinance, and /r/churning. I grew up somewhat poor, and I think that has shaped my complete fear of going broke. For some, it may also fuel the desire to buy nice things. You have to be careful with that second one. I pay off my credit cards every month, but I also take advantage of any "no interest for 12 months" type deals on a Best Buy store card when I need a big purchase. I'm going to talk about buying, and then I'm going to talk about what I generally do financially.

"Avocado toast" really seems to be an example of a bigger underlying problem, which is that people have too many things that they spend too much money on. $14 for avocado on toast is obscene given how cheap it would be to make it yourself. And yes, I understand that they restaurant pays the rent, the servers, etc, but the point is that avocado toast and expensive coffee shouldn't really be a regular luxury. The thing is, how many other places are you basically throwing away excess money, like GrubHub and bars?

I'm not saying don't have fun. I'm saying that you should meter that stuff a bit. If you have the funds and you want to buy a Nintendo Switch, go ahead. That's a one time cost for the system, and it provides ongoing fun. But that's gotta be your thing. Your thing can't be bars AND dining out AND traveling AND expensive jeans AND tattoos AND...

Here are my personal tips for finance that may make life a bit easier. This may not lead to you buying a place, but it can lead to you getting some financial freedom. It's the same theory when it came to packing a ruck: ounces make pounds. In this case that extra money you save (or spend) adds up over time.

First off you need to plan.

I like Quicken. I used to love MS Money more, but that's gone and mint wasn't doing it for me at the time and I haven't tried it since. Don't get the new version every year. Maybe every 4 years IF you feel the new features will help you.

Quicken works best if you have steady income, but if you have income that fluctuates due to hours or tips, you should just estimate a basic income that you typically get and you can always adjust upward for actual. Better to underestimate income. So now you have an estimate of money in.

Now, you need to take control of your bills and calculate money out. Personally, I pay most of my bills weekly so they can't sneak up on me. For example, I went to the electric company website and looked at my bills for the past year, added that up, and divided by 52. That's my weekly average energy spend. It goes up in summer and down in winter. Then, for one bill I paid it off, and then the following week, I had my bank start automatic payments of that weekly amount. This does three things. First, the bills don't surprise me all at once. Second, should anything happen, I'm a month ahead of my bills, so I have some time to think. Third, with the payments going automatically, I don't have to waste time paying bills or trying to figure out what needs to be paid. And your bank send it, so you can't forget, they track it, and you don't need a stamp (if you mail it to someone).

Remember that thing I mentioned about "12 months no interest" on a store card. Don't wait 12 months and get screwed. Again, take the amount, divide by 50, send that much to the card each week for 52 weeks. So if you need a new laptop, and it's going to cost $1,300, that might really hurt your budget. However, at $25 a week, it becomes easy to manage. That's like not eating out once.

I pay for everything possible with a credit card. I could try to figure out a budget, but I'm lazy, and my spending can go all over the place. However, with the card, I just estimate what I usually spend each week and have the bank auto-pay that. This also makes it easy to track the real money in my checking account in Quicken because the output is stabilized. Just like with the other bills. Also, I get cool points and stuff that I will later use for travel or whatever, and I pay no interest.

So, in Quicken, with your general income and spending put in, you can see what your money is doing over time. And you can see if your lifestyle is going to slowly drive you to being broke. When I first got my place and needed a roommate, the area sucked. However, I could see in quicken what the minimum that I needed to charge was in order for me to not go broke. My roommate paid less than a third of the total costs were, but I was at least financially stable for the time being. Now that the area is better, it's closer to them paying half.

Save money

So let's say that you're one of the lucky people that have excess money when you look at your plan. Don't plan how to spend it. I recommend opening another bank account, setting up a regular automatic transfer, and then acting like the money isn't there.

I started doing this when I was in the military and used to get blindsided by holiday shopping. I figured out that if I could put $25 a month into another account, I would have $300 at the end of the year for gifts. That's a big chunk of money when you're semi-broke and it hits you all at once. So having that in reserve was useful.

Again, using quicken, you can see what you can put aside without completely depleting your checking account.

Also, any pay raise you get, just don't increase your standard of living, and set that money aside. It will be a great emergency fund.

Buying stuff.

I was STUPID when I got out of the military. I lived in a place that was furnished when I was in, so when I got out and had money, I bought some nice furniture. I think I blew around $8K thanks to Raymour & Flanigan. It was basically Afghanistan deployment money. I bought a nice table, chairs, a mattress and some other stuff, all for way too much.

You know where you can also get some nice stuff? Craigslist, which is where I'm currently trying to sell that nice table for a lot less than I bought it for. $200 Ikea bed frames in very good condition are going for $50. $150 for a solid table and 4 chairs that someone else paid 800 for, and they may be in great condition.

Unless there is no way to get it cheaper, I don't by anything that's not on sale, and even then it's usually what I need.

There are some places where you usually don't want to go cheap, like shoes or a mattress, or tires if you own a car.

Buy things that will last but you don't need to do it all at once. You can always upgrade stuff later, but just make sure that you don't spend a lot on the placeholder stuff.

Eating

We all need food. And we all feel like there's no time. Cooking is not that hard. Yeah, you may screw up a recipe at first, but you will get better. Most meals you can make in 30 minutes, and if you want to get really efficient, you can do things like taking a day for weekly meal prep (I don't. I should but I haven't really gotten to it).

You can cook scrambled eggs like Gordon Ramsey in under 5 minutes. Your cost: 40 cents. The cost of a ham, egg, and cheese sandwich is maybe $1.25 if you do it yourself.

Buy cookbooks geared toward simplicity.

This was my first cookbook: Cooking Outside the Pizza Box. For many of us, it's aptly named. Other ones that I have and would recommend: Healthy Cooking for Two (or Just You) and Easy Menus for Dining In.

If you want to be really cheap, just go to http://allrecipes.com/ or some similar website.

I also invested in a good chef's knife (over $100), but a mediocre one for $30 will be okay, just realize that you will need to sharpen it a little more frequently (like every 3 months), so maybe invest in a whetstone and learn a skill. Sharp knives make cutting so much easier.. A dull knife means you use more force, and are more likely to cut yourself if it slips.

Most of your meals you can make for a fraction of the cost that you pay for it outside. Coffee is the easiest. Yes a coffee maker is pricey, but if you get one that has something like an automatic function, you can get one that you can set up to make you coffee in the morning so you can save time on your prep.

Something like this and a thermos will be invaluable.

Hanging out with friends

I like to be social. Unfortunately, there are few places in NYC that you can hang out, and most of them serve food and drinks, and it's going to cost you. Bars are just convenient. Also, you can meet new people there.

However, if you or a friend have a nice space, maybe try hosting gatherings. You could even do a potluck. The drinks are cheaper, people can bring food, and if it's your place, when the night ends everyone leaves and you're right next to your bed.

u/witsendidk · 3 pointsr/3Dmodeling

I'm really sorry you've lost your fingers. That's so horrible. I myself work in a shop using powertools on a daily basis so I know the risk and how easily it can happen, it's one of my greatest fears and I wouldn't wish it on anyone. I hope you're coping alright all things considered.

There are definitely resources out there for you and people who can help. Here is one, I know there are more out there. I think there's one in particular I couldn't find.

Here's a list of a bunch of .stl databases.

Here's another list.

There's probably some overlap in those but that should help. I googled 'list of 3d model repositories' to find those, you may find more with similar searches like '.stl databases'. Add 'medical' or 'prosthetic' in there too, combine them and you should find some helpful search results.

There are also places online you can pay people to print stuff for you. But honestly if you find a model that you think works for your hand situation, please pm me! I would love to print it for you and send it to you probono if you want something from asap until you can print your own (I imagine you probably will have alterations you'd like after the 1st attempt) after you've figured out your printer. I'd be happy to help you get started as well if you have any questions at all. I have gone through the initial learning curve myself for about 2 years now so I know what you're in for challenge-wise. Check out the r/3dprinting subreddit, there's a lot of helpful folks over there, there also might be a specific subreddit for your exact printer. Yep, just checked, I believe it's r/MPselectMiniOwners. I've also gotten lots of help from 3dprinting discord channels (namely '3dprinters') Discord is a chat server program incase you're unaware.

Tools and materials wise, you will need only a few basic hand tools and filament. PLA will probably do just fine for your situation (you can use more durable filament later, PLA is just the easiest to work with and best for prototypes. Hand tools that I use are a metal spatula like these, and a pair of snips like these. I also regularly use 99% (highest % is best) isopropyl alcohol to clean my printbed surface. Also get a nice gluestick to help print adhesion to the printbed surface if you run into adhesion issues. That's about it, I have other tools and stuff I use but those are my most frequently used. You might want to get a decent set of hex head wrenches these are the ones I use, they work a lot better than allen 'L' style hex wrenches for working on your machine. That's assuming your machine uses hex head nuts though.

Also, Fusion 360 is the program I'd recommend looking into if you're trying to do your own modelling. It's actually pretty easy to learn, I used a site called udemy.com which offers cheap lessons (~$10 a course sometimes cheaper) that are very helpful. Fusion 360 is free for hobbyists.

Seriously though, please don't hesitate to pm me, I'd love to help you out if you're interested in that. :)

u/TheophilusOmega · 2 pointsr/CampingGear

I"m assuming that you will be going soon, say the next month or so, time of year counts, but I'll assume it's soon.

Your tent is a little "meh." it'll work but it might not last so long; especially take core of the poles, they beak easily. Also the cheapo tent stakes that come with the tent are going to bend and you will curse them every time you set up your tent. Pick up some like these and they will serve you well. (Personally I hate using tents; they are hassles to set up and take down, and generally not pleasant to sleep in. If you can help it try sleeping under the stars and see if that suits you.)

You might find your sleeping bag to be a bit chilly, I'd recommend a 20 degree bag with a hood. I know it won't get that cold but the degree ratings are quite exaggerated so 20 degrees is really more suitable for 50 degrees. If you don't want to spend more money on a bag, make sure you have warm clothes and a good fitting beanie.

Air mattresses are fine, just take care to feel out for thorns or anything that might puncture it. Also you might want a blanket or something in between you and the mattress because it will suck out the heat from underneath you if you don't have some insulation.

You should have a tarp or footprint to put your tent on to protect it and the air mattress from punctures, it's worth it. The tarp you have should be fine (maybe doubled over if its thin), but a footprint will be more convenient.

For $15 that stove is a great deal, buy it if it still works fine. It runs off of white gas AKA "camp fuel", which you can find at many grocery stores, gas stations, any place with a sporting goods section, and many stores near popular camping areas. Finding white gas is not really an issue.

Don't buy matches, just get 2 or 3 Bic lighters. Really you should learn to make a fire using only your lighter, make that your goal each night. In a pinch my favorite fire starter is one you can make at home before your trip. Get an old egg carton and stuff each cup with cotton balls or dryer lint. then pour melted candle wax into each cup until about 90% full. Let the carton harden then pack it away. To use it rip off one cup and light the cardboard edge, you will have a strong flame for about 15 minutes.

Don't buy a filter. Water will be easy to come by at most campsites, but not all of them have a tap so make sure to bring along a few extra gallons just in case.

Lanterns produce almost no usable light, save your money and stick with the headlamp. Also that headlamp is excellent I highly recommend it. Protip: leave it around your neck like a necklace when you sleep then it's easy to find in the middle of the night.

I have a lot of experience with wilderness medicine and those pre-made kits are mostly worthless, you are much better off making your own kit.

I Recommend:

  • 2-3 Rolls Athletic Tape - This works for making bandages and splints, covering blisters, cuts, burns, ect.
  • Small Bottle of Ibuprofen (Advil) - Pain reliever, and muscle relaxant that aids in the recovery and prevention of injuries
  • 1-2 Ace bandages - Makes bandages, splints, and slings
  • Duct Tape - General purpose item
  • Roll Gauze - For major injuries with significant bleeding
  • Individually Wrapped Antihistamine (Benadryl) Tablets - Optional if you don't have allergies
  • Bic Lighter - Sterilizes metal instruments
  • Mini Swiss Army Knife - Excellent scissors and tweezers for minor injuries, sterilize with a flame before each use
  • Sunscreen - Don't want to get burned
  • Triple Antibiotic (Neosporin) - Ward off infection of open wounds, do not apply directly to the cut but rather around like a defensive wall
  • Alcohol Prep Pads - Cleans and sterilizes open wounds before dressing
  • Add Any Prescription Meds / Regularly Taken Medicines - Inhaler, insulin, Epi-Pen, ect.
  • Add Anything That Makes You Feel Better Knowing You Have It - eg snake bite kits, aspirin, SAM splint, burn gel

    Chair looks comfy, get one you like with at least 1 cupholder

    A good knife makes a great survival tool and is just generally a useful item, check here every few days for a good deal on high quality knives. Multi tools are great to have around camp but an inexpensive set of tools would be much better for your situation. If you want a true multi-tool this one is good quality and a fair price.

u/cthulhubert · 5 pointsr/EDC

The core material EDC, to me would be knife, light and cellphone. But cool keychain gidgets are really nice too.

So I'd say if you have a knife, a good flashlight would be next, then a backup knife and light (one is none, two is one). I like a multi-tool or SAK for my backup knife, and a keychain light for my backup torch.

(In case you're curious, after that I start considering footwear, gloves, hats and other clothing.)

(Sorry, I'm feeling a bit lazy, so you'll have to live with bare links.)

This one is pretty popular for keychain use: www.amazon.com/iTP-A3-EOS-Flashlight--Upgrade/dp/B006K5C2EG/

Fenix has single AA and 123 powered lights that are well regarded and compact:
AA: http://www.amazon.com/Fenix-E11-Compact-Lumen-Flashlight/dp/B005GW8UC2
CR123: www.amazon.com/Fenix-Compact-140-Lumen-Flashlight/dp/B005CWRB44

There are a lot of other brands worthy of consideration too, of course (Fourseven's mini, Jetbeam, Klarus, Zebra, just to name a few).

There are also a lot of much larger but more capable flashlights out there.

Keychain stuff is always nice:
I use these sliver grippers way more than I thought I would. The convenience of always having them around is unparalleled: http://www.amazon.com/UNCLE-BILLS-SLIVER-GRIPPER-TWEEZER/dp/B001KMSUA4
I've been thinking of getting this, I'm a little leery about that much stuff for so little cost though: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003A5E5IK
I love this style of keyring, but it's way cheaper on eBay: http://www.amazon.com/Vigilant-Gear-Aircraft-Cable-Ring/dp/B006ZSP1PA
Little one-piece keychain tools have become really popular, and I really like having a little prying and screwing tool always present.
The Gerber Shard is cheap but probably at least worth what you pay for it: http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-22-01769-Shard-Keychain-Tool/dp/B002ZK45IQ
This one has a bit more functionality, and is made of the magically delicious titanium: http://www.amazon.com/Schrade-Chain-Tool-Seatbelt-Cutter/dp/B004PQJ1QO

Keychain multi-tools can be good.
Here's one from Gerber: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006M9NIDO
Supposedly the build quality isn't as good as Leatherman's though: http://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-64010101K-Micra-Multi-tool/dp/B000JCN0FG

I'd also recommend looking for a glow in the dark lanyard.

A pen you can EDC is another "you're surprised how often you use it" item. I have an Inka and it's definitely alright, though a bit fiddly: http://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-Inc-Inka-Pen/dp/B001E6R6EM/
The biggest competitor is the classic Fisher Bullet Space Pen: http://www.amazon.com/Fisher-Space-Pen-Bullet-400B/dp/B000WGD13U

Something to write on is nice. I'm a real child of the digital age, but I still like having an analog recording medium on me. I prefer Pentalic's pocket size books to Moleskine's. They're a little thicker, but they have a flexible cover, and are usually cheaper. Here's one: http://www.amazon.com/Pentalic-Travelers-Sketch-3-Inch-4-Inch/dp/B0025TZ35Q but I don't know if it's ruled or grid or what. I also prefer a bright color cover to make it easy to spot.

Continuing on the writing stuff matter, a sharpie and/or a metallic (ink) sharpie are nice to have. You can get sharpies with stainless steel cases too, which feel nicer to hold, and you're a little less likely to forget somewhere.
Black (dozen): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IFEP
Stainless Steel: http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Stainless-Permanent-Marker-1747388/dp/B001V9LQLG
Metallic: http://www.amazon.com/Sanford-39108PP-Metallic-Sharpie-Permanent/dp/B00119QWCO

I think everybody should carry some sort of bandanna. I carry an off-brand buff (tubular bandanna) and an olive drab shemagh.

I like to carry a small baggie of what I call MacGuyver goods. Paracord (bound up in a hanayawa right now), some gorilla tape and electrical tape wrapped around a card, super glue, a sewing kit, zip ties, twist ties, rubber bands, safety pins, binder clips, and a few 1 quart ziplock freezer bags. (Like hell I'm finding links for all of those.)

Yet another "surprising how useful it turns out to be" item is a small mirror: http://www.amazon.com/Coghlans-Featherweight-Mirror/dp/B0047QV44O/

Whistles are useful for warning people of fire or danger, or calling for help, so I like to carry one: http://www.amazon.com/Fox-40-Whistle-Breakaway-Lanyard/dp/B00544UJC6

A monocular is fun to have on your person. This particular model is really great because of its super low minimum focusing distance, which lets you use it as a sort of loupe. In regular mode it's good for looking for house numbers or your car in a parking lot, that sort of thing: http://www.amazon.com/Brunton-Echo-7x18-Pocket-Scope/dp/B000FKMTBS

I think that's all I could come up with off the top of my head.

u/mxzf · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Beyond the standard screwdrivers/metric allen wrenches/etc that you'd have for your job, there are a few things that are good to have on-hand. I'll give a bit of an overview of what I use regularly and consider pretty essential.

Calipers. When you want to make prints designed to real-life sizes (rather than just artistic models), calipers are almost essential. I've got some digital calipers that I got on amazon for $30-40 and I use them constantly.

Flush cutters. Little cutters like these are amazing for working with 3D printing. I use them to cut filament for a clean end to feed into the printer, to clean supports off of finished prints, cutting zip ties (which are sometimes used to hold 3D printer belts cleanly), little stuff like that. Get yourself a set for $5-10 and dedicate them to the printer; keep them reserved for soft-ish plastic to avoid killing the edge, use something else for cutting metal and thicker plastic.

Scraper. Many printers come with one, but you definitely want something like a fine-bladed putty knife or something similar. It's not uncommon to need to pry a bit to get a print off the print bed (depending on the bed surface), so having something to pry with is nice.

Thin tweezers. They don't have to be anything fancy, but tweezers are useful for grabbing little bits of plastic that came out wrong before they mess up the rest of the print or other little stuff like that.

There are a lot of other things which are useful to have on hand, but somewhat less essential. Here's some of what I have and use.

High-purity Isopropyl Alcohol and a clean cloth. I have a PEI print bed, which works great. I keep some 91% rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle; every few prints I'll give the print bed a spray or two and wipe it down with a microfiber cloth. It does a great job of keeping the print bed clean and letting prints stick well (and PEI releases prints well once it cools down).

Scale. It's definitely not essential, but it's nice to have a small scale that can give weights in grams, since it'll let you know how much of your 1kg spool is remaining and lets you weigh things quick and easy.

Small flashlight. It doesn't need to be something fancy, but I keep a cheap little flashlight near my printer for when I need to look at some part or detail and it's in a weird spot or I don't want to turn on the big light.

Small blowtorch and/or heat gun. Great for making little stringy retraction issues shrivel up and go away, restoring the color of a section of print that turned white from removing supports (from plastic fatigue) and whatever else. I've got a little butane torch that works great for doing those sorts of things.

Dental mirror. Definitely not strictly necessary, but it can be handy for seeing up under your print head without spending a couple min moving it up to the top and bending your head at an awkward angle.

Sharpie marker. Being able to write on or label a print is handy. There'll be times when you're tuning the printer settings or something similar and want to make a note of what settings you used for that print that you're tweaking for other prints; Sharpies do the job well.

There are also a few consumables which are very handy to have on hand if you're making any kind of mechanical print or doing any printer mods.

Small machine screws, especially metric. I've got a couple boxes of M2-M5 machine screws and nuts in various lengths that I use for prints that need to be fixed together or for any printer mods that need to be mounted. A $10-20 assortment box on Amazon will last you a good while.

Zip ties, in an assortment of widths. They're just really useful for tying stuff together. You've probably got a bunch already laying around, but it's worth mentioning.

Superglue. It's great for gluing prints together; I keep some thin CA glue and also some gel CA glue on-hand for gluing prints together. Just don't get your fingers stuck.

I'm sure there's also other useful stuff that I'm forgetting that someone else will mention.

As to the humidity, it really depends on how humid your house actually gets. Given that you're in Florida, however, you probably want at least a bit of protection for your filament. I'd suggest getting some kind of airtight container and some rechargeable silica beads. Keep the filament in the dry container as much as possible and cook the water out of the beads as-needed and you should be fine without having to actively dry out the filament. Just keep an eye on it and tweak your setup if you're having issues due to wet filament.

u/Route66_LANparty · 3 pointsr/Warhammer

On the miniatures wargame? video games? or lore?

I'm going to assume the miniatures tabletop wargame since that's the main focus of this sub...

There are many ways to enjoy the hobby. That's probably the most important thing to realize at first. For most people Warhammer is a hobby, not just a game you pickup and play. There are a few board game like games in the warhammer pantheon that are less of a full blown hobby, but still require some model building before play. For the most part Warhammer (or tabletop wargaming in general) becomes a full on hobby that takes a good amount of free time. That's the point of a hobby really, to enjoy your free time doing something other than just mindlessly watching TV.

First thing to do is decide which of the many Warhammer games you want to play. For you, this is likely easy, as you have a friend trying to get you into it.

After that, you'll want to decide on a faction to play within the game you friend is playing. Examples are Space Marines, Daemons, Orks... To decide you'll want to look at the model ranges and read a little of the lore/story behind them. Pick whichever one calls to you, whichever seem "cool."

Once you've decided on a faction, you'll start small. Assembling and painting a single box to see if this is enjoyable for you. Pickup either a single starter box that includes your faction or a "Start Collecting Box".

Startup costs are not insignificant as there are tools and supplies you'll need. But once you are going the main supplies you'll need are expanding your paint collection and replacing brushes.

  • Flush cutters to remove parts from the sprues. You can get fancy here but don't have to. A sub-$10 Xuron will give you quality cuts and be dependable at a third of the price of the nice (but $$) Game Workshop clippers.
  • Files or scraper to smooth out the sprue marks (Durasand Twigs - Blue are my goto. I've got high praise for the Games Workshop Moldline remover tool, but it's an expensive early purchase.
  • Plastic glue (aka plastic cement) to put the parts together. Tamiya Extra Thin or Deluxe Plastic Magic are my goto glues. They have brush on applicators making the glue less messy and more precise.
  • A can of White, Grey, or Black spray primer to prepare the models for painting. Inexpensive Rustoleum or Krylon from a hardware store/walmart works well for your first set of models. Stick to White or Light Grey if you plan to use the new easy to use Citadel "Contrast" paints. Don't forget a mask to protect you a bit from the fumes of spraying the primer and later the varnish.
  • Half a dozen to a dozen model paint colors to start out. Citadel, Vallejo, Reaper, or Army Painter are excellent model paints with a good range of prices. Paints are a big upfront cost, but thankfully model point pottles/pots last a long time. If you decide you want to paint like the box art, Citadel paints match up with games workshop tutorials. Otherwise, any of them well do.
  • Eventually, you'll also want a spray can matte varnish to seal/protect the models. That way paint won't come off on your fingers as you play. Testors, Army Painter or Citadel make a good spray varnishes.

    .....

    If you are less into the hobby idea, but still want to play some tabletop games with Warhammer miniatures, look at the Warhammer Underworlds line. it plays like a mix of miniatures game, deck building, and boardgame. But the models are already pre-colored plastics and push to fit, so no glues or paints needed to play. Just clippers.
u/Hotrian · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I had to break this into another comment due to per comment character limits.

The following previously belonged to the above comment, but was moved here due to the above mentioned limts.

> Something you can do now: Build a filament drybox. Seriously, some filaments such as certain Nylons can go bad in just a few hours, depending on ambient humidity levels. All filaments are susceptible to moisture absorption, and ideally should be kept in something like a Spannerhands holder, even while printing, but at worst you should store them in a big plastic tub with silica gel beads to keep them dry.

> If I had to give one last tip, don't stock up on too much filament yet! Seriously! I thought I would be printing mostly in PLA but now that I've had a few weeks to work with it, I've learned I prefer PETG more, and now I have so much extra PLA! I'm sure I'll find something to do with it, but for my final tip I would add "And get a good variety!". Services like MakerBox (referral) let you try a bunch of different filaments on the cheap. It's not a ton of each filament (about 50g), but I love the variety of materials and colors.

Original second level comment begins:

Final Tips: Bonus Round!

  1. Extruder Indicators are pretty cool (and USEFUL). You can get the magnets super cheap (or amazon).
  2. Learn how to do An Atomic Pull (AKA Cold Pull), and learn it well. Do this every time you switch filaments (See "Doing it the lazy way" at the bottom of the page). You'll help remove built up deposits each time, which will help ensure a long, jam free life for you nozzle. This also skips the bleeding necessary when switching filaments (on your next "Load" you'll get a few mm of old filament and then pretty much pure new filament after that, instead of the 100mm or so of transition). You can skip doing a proper Cold Pull if you're using a brand new printer anyway. Just do a lazy pull each time you switch filaments, and then a proper Cold Pull maybe every 100 print hours, or after using extremely difficult (wet or super exotic) filaments to help remove any residue that may cause future jams or other issues. This does require undoing and redoing the idler tension again, but once you've done it a few times you can do the whole pull and filament swap in under a minute (minus hotend heatup/cooldown time). White Nylon is great for proper Cold Pulls, partially because you can crank the temp up very high (which ensures any residual filament in the hot end should also melt), White PLA would be okay for example, but may not properly pull PETG or ABS from the nozzle. White is great thanks to the color, of course, which allows you to see any residue easier; However, any color may be used. If you only ever use PLA, then PLA would be just fine for a Cold Pull. Seriously though, start by doing Cold Pulls from Day 1 and you'll easily cut out 50% of your future issues.
  3. The small metric fasteners used in the printer are cheap. They are used in a lot of designs found online, so you should stock up (alternate source). The primary fasteners used are M3 Socket Head Cap 0.5 pitch, mostly full thread. You can also get the nuts very cheap. Square, Nyloc, and Hex. I can get the exact lengths used in the Mk3 if anyone needs them, though I'm not sure the exact grade used, it only really effects corrosion resistance.
  4. You can also Calibrate the Extruder steps/mm and extrusion multiplier. Many people will tell you only the later is necessary but I prefer to do both anyway. Theoretically it does make a difference, but practically you can just compensate for steps/mm with the extrusion multiplier, and for all intents and purposes the result is the same, so "many people" are totally right.
  5. You can also Calibrate the PID. You probably won't have to do this for PLA out of the box, but may find you have some temperature swings with PETG or ABS temperatures. The Official Help Article also discusses this method and how to calibrate using the LCD if you prefer. I like to keep my Mk3 settings vanilla (I've never used an M500 directly, and avoid them when I can), so I like to get my PID values manually and set them in my start GCode instead, which also allows me to setup my slicer so each switching filaments automatically switches PID profiles. The bed can be calibrated as well, but again you probably won't need to do this unless you're experiencing temperature swings more than -/+ 5°. One or two degree dips/spikes is perfectly normal (though theoretically can be tuned out, requires proper enclosure for stable ambient temps, etc).

    There are tons of other accessories you can get ahead of time. None of these are necessary, but are small things you might end up using (or wanting to try :P), and should help get you started getting a wishlist together. Besides the ones mentioned in this comment (and the one that precedes it) already:

  • Wire Snips beat the included pliers hands down. For $4 how are you not going to pick these up right now? The cutting edge on a pair of pliers sucks and it doesn't help that it's ****ing halfway down the length of the tool. I tried to get away with just using the included tools and simply gave up trying to use the included pliers to cut zip ties. If you have Prime, get a pair of these now. Get a pair even if you don't - they're worth the shipping cost too. Thank me later.
  • 608 bearings (for prints such as TUSH),
  • Loctite 222 (helps prevent screws from vibrating free, not necessary thanks to Nylocs used in Mk3),
  • A humidity sensor (for filament dry box and checking ambient),
  • An accurate scale (for calculating remaining filament),
  • A small fan (enhanced print cooling when needed (not very necessary except for ultra extreme bridges), enhanced circulation in filament dry box),
  • Small bags (for silica beads),
  • PTFE tube and matching Bowden Couplers (for something like Spannerhands),
  • Lubit-8 (for the LMU88 bearings),
  • SuperLube (Silicone Grease w/ PTFE for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  • Canola Oil (for lubricating/cleaning filament and seasoning the nozzle/hotend (not necessary with modern hotends)),
  • Small Brass Brush (also for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  • Nozzle Reams (for the extremely rare jam, because you're doing your Atomic Pulls, right?),
  • Extra Nozzles (no need for the kit, just an example. Hardened nozzles (black) are a good idea for composites, last longer than Brass, regardless of filament used. Prusa Mk3 comes with 0.4mm nozzle preinstalled, but you can easily swap the nozzle),
  • E3D Hotend Sock (helps lock in heat for (theoretically?) lower current usage and more stable temperatures, also helps keep plastic off the heat block in case of print failure),
  • Magigoo (or other adhesion aids) (for certain exotic filaments, otherwise not necessary with Mk3),
  • Tempered Glass or Borosilicate printbeds (for certain exotic filaments),
  • And of course, Isopropyl Alcohol (70% or better, preferably 91% or better) and Acetone, just to name a few...

    Edit: Upon rereading my comment I realized I have a problem.. I own every product I just listed..

    ^^Except ^^for ^^the ^^nozzles ^^kit ^^so ^^it's ^^not ^^that ^^big ^^of ^^a ^^problem, ^^right?... ^^Right?!
u/Pukit · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

I think you're going in too heavy with that paint set but it's up to you. I certainly have never bought a paint set. With the majority of kits you'll be making will probably use four or five paints per model when you start out, most of the time washes account for the most colour. Army painter make some really nice brushes/sets also paints, they are really good but half of those paints you may never use.

I research the kit I'm making, acquire the relevant paints, usually either vallejo, mig, ak or Tamiya. I have a real mix. This way I don't have any redundant paint, in the long run it's probably more expensive than just buying a set, but I can certainly say i've got no paint that i've never used.

For washes, I'd just get some oil paints, like winsor newton, some odourless turpentine. Once again, this is cheap, buy three or four colours and a pot of turps, a cheap brush a palette and you can make any colour you want. Some places like this do 4 for 3, the small tubes will last you years and years. There are some great videos on youtube for making washes with oil paints. I'd just get burnt umber, burnt sienna, maybe a green, blue, yellow and black.

You need a gloss clear coat, something like Mr Topcoat gloss is great, its acrylic so if you use enamel/oil paint washes over the top it won't ruin your base coat, and then finish the model with a matte or satin coat.

Take a step back, find a kit you want to make, see what paints you need. Get a brush set, get a can of spray primer, personally I'd use Tamiya's fine spray primer, it's cheap and really fine. Be very careful not to flood a model's detail though.

I'd go with a cheap pair of Xuron's, I started using them for my 3dprinter and now use them for modelling too, they're so cheap and sharp, the pair i've had now for well over a year and still work great. I use to treat cutters as expendable items but these seem to have stayed sharp the longest.

Either Tamiya thin or Mr's is fine, I use Tamiya as have done for years and never had any issues with it.

If you've saved some money with not buying a paint set then think about getting some decal setting solution like microscales set and sol.

I'd also recommend using companies like emodel, hannants, or a local hobbyshop. We have some great resources in the UK for scale modelling and often you'll find free shipping and cheaper stuff than on amazon at a lhs or an online reseller.

Edit, I should add, get a good hobby knife, Xacto or similar with replaceable blades. A set of fine needle files is useful as is either sanding foam, sanding sticks, sand paper of various grades.

u/beardjerk · 4 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Ohm's Law

Current = Voltage / Resistance. Probably the single most important thing you need to understand to keep yourself safe. Steam-engine.org is a very handy site for rebuilding, and it has a simple Ohm's Law calculator. This will allow you to determine the current (amps) and power (watts) at a given resistance and voltage. When determining the current for a build on a mechanical, you always want to use 4.2v for your voltage setting since that will be the voltage of the fully charged cell. Setting your voltage as such and lowering the resistance on the Ohm's Law calcultor, you will see the current increase. You want to keep the current below the max continuous discharge rate for the battery, and just to be safe, I like to keep my amps at least 10%-20% below that max continuous rating. So you can see that with a fully charged battery at 4.2v, and a build with a resistance of 0.21Ω, you would be right at 20A.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm%27s_law

http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.asp



Batteries

If you are mainly looking to sub-ohm, don't bother with 18350 or 18490/500 batteries, and stick with 18650s. The most important part of the battery specs for safe sub-ohm vaping is going to be the max continuous discharge rating for the cell. A few months ago, I would have only suggested Sony VTC4s or VTC5s, due to their 30A continuous discharge rating, but due to price gouging and a rash of fakes due to limited availability I don't think those are going to be your best option. Next best thing at the moment is either the Samsung 25R or the LG HE2. Both are solid 2500mAh batteries with 20A continuous discharge.

http://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/batteries/18650-samsung-inr18650-25r-2500mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html

http://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/batteries/18650-lg-icr18650he2-2500mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html



Charger

The most important part of your gear to prevent your house from burning down, definitely don't skimp on the charger. I have an Efest LUC v4 which works wonderfully, and the Nitecore i-series chargers are also great, and you can't beat the price for the quality.

http://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/chargers/efest-luc-v4-charger.html

http://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/chargers/nitecore-intellicharge-i2.html

http://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/chargers/nitecore-i4-intellicharger-2014-edition.html



Ohm Meter

Having an ohm meter is a must have when rebuilding. This is going to tell you what the resistance of your build is once you get it on your RBA. The last thing you want is to vent a battery in a mod you are using, and if you have a short in your build, venting is definitely a possibility. You can just get yourself a cheap multimeter from some place like harbor freight, but I prefer the ohm meters that have the 510 connection. Less hassle, and it gives you a nice solid base for building on your RBA.

http://101vape.com/meters/170-ohms-meter.html



Wick

There are a number of different wicking materials in use, but the most common is cotton. I started out using organic cotton balls from my local pharmacy, but now I only use japanese cotton pads. The japanese cotton has blown up, mainly because of its form factor (very easy to cut strips to size from a square pad) and excellent wicking ability.

http://www.sephora.com/pure-cotton-P300602

http://www.cvs.com/shop/baby-child/bath-skin-care/cotton-swabs/cvs-100-cotton-triple-size-organic-cotton-balls-skuid-405326



Wire

There are also some different types of wire available, but the most used (by far) would have to be Kanthal. I generally suggest picking up a couple different gauges to start. At the very least, I would say grab some 28ga and 26ga. If you are planning to try building below something like 0.4Ω, I would also grab some 24ga.

http://www.lightningvapes.com/products/kanthal-a1-resistance-wire



Wire Snips

Soemthing to cut your wire, whether it is a small pair of wire snips, or even a set of nail clippers will work for most common gauges of Kanthal.

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418241774&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+snips



Coil Jig/Mandrel

You are going to need something to wrap your coils on. A lot of people use drill bits since they have standardized sizes and that will help you determine (using something like http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp) how many wraps at a given inner diameter will give you the resistance you are looking for. You can also get small coil jigs that come with a set of rods of varying diameters. I prefer to use something like a jump ring mandrel. It has multiple diameters on the one tool to wrap on.

http://101vape.com/accessories-/362-rba-coil-jig.html

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10010836/1926001-vaping-coil-winding-jig-tool-for-rebuildable



Mechanical Mod

This and the section about RBAs is going to be very subjective. Plenty of mech mods out there function perfectly well, so when it comes to picking your mech, a lot of it will be aesthetics and form. In the end, all the mechanical mod is is a metal tube with a switch at one end and a 510 connector at the other. The two things that I tend to focus on when looking at a mech mod are how well the button functions (nothing more annoying to me than a crunchy button), and will I be able to easily adjust for battery rattle. There may be other feature that you are more concerned with, like does the unit have some sort of locking ring to prevent unintentional firing of the mod. Something to definitely consider if you are going to be carrying the mod in such a way that it could accidentally fire without your knowledge. I guess I will just link some of the mods that I prefer, like the SMPL, Pegasus, Colonial, and Vanilla. And I may as well throw a link in there for a Nemesis, since it is the go-to suggestion for first mech mod, and still a solid mod. Also, keep in mind that most if not all of these mods come in multiple color and/or metal options, including copper, brass, and stainless steel.

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10010820/1924800-smpl-style-18650-mechanical-mod

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10008266/1739802-pegasus-style-mechanical-mod

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10008332/1910000-penny-v2-style-18650-copper-mechanical-mod

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10008560/1776902-vanilla-style-mechanical-mod

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10009160/1448300-nemesis-style-mechanical-mod




RBA

So when it comes to rebuildable atomizers, you basically have two options. Either you will be using an RDA (rebuildable dripping atomizer) or an RTA (rebuildable tank atomizer). Your RDAs have you dripping juice directly onto your coils with relatively little juice in reserve, whereas your RTAs have a tank that is filled, and then juice is wicked from the tank to the coils. As a general rule, RTAs give you the ability to have to fill/drip less often, but tend to be more restrictive on build space and airflow. On the other hand, you will have to repeatedly drip juice onto your build as you vape with an RDA, but will have more options for different builds and be able to provide the necessary airflow for hotter builds. Again, these are just general rules, as specific models of RDAs and RTAs have different features. As far as breaking down the specifics on all the different models of RDA and RTA...yeah, there are just too many to even start. Recently, I have mainly been using a Mephisto v1 clone. I like having the ability to run either dual or single coil, I like the changeable airflow rings, I like the available airflow, the well isn't too small, and it has large post holes and screws. I am also going to throw in a link for the TOBH, since it is the obligatory "first dripper" suggetsion. Since this single item is probably going to do the most to affect your experience, I would suggest just taking some time and looking at what RTAs and RDAs are available, and then check out some reviews of them on YouTube.

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10009074/1802100-mephisto-style-rebuildable-dripping-atomizer

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007863/1716603-tobh-atty-v2-style-rebuildable-dripping-atomzier

u/LSatyreD · 8 pointsr/RBA

Hey! Great questions! And good on you for asking them!

Part I
------


------

So first off, building your own coils is ABSOLUTELY the way to go, it is much cheaper, more customizable, a better vape, and just plain fun. You are going to need a few things though.

  • Wire. Start with a mix of different gauge Kanthal.

  • Wire cutters.

  • Ceramic tweezers. These are for adjusting your coils once they are installed.

  • A coiling jig. You can use anything from a nail to a precision screwdriver to a syringe, however I very strongly recommend this set.

  • Cotton. I've tried every brand of cotton out there, they are all the same. Just go to your local CVS/Walgreens/Whole Foods/Walmart/etc and pick up a big bag of cotton balls, they will last you a life time for about $5. Seriously, a life time.

  • [Optional] Ohm meter. This is only optional because you are using a regulated device, it is required for mech mods. The Kanger will not fire if your coil is bad or too low of a resistance (about 0.4 ohms in my experience).

    Now that you have everything you can go to town! Remember, all of this is just my personal opinion and experience, do what works for you.

    ------

    Planning: The Kanger works best at around 1.19 ohms at 50 watts but can go as low 0.4 ohms. To get an idea of how factors like different wire gauges or multiple coils will affect your resistance try simulating it on this page.

    ------

    Wire Work: There are plenty of videos and tutorials out there for different coils but my advice would be to start simple. Once you can build a coil that has good tight wraps and learn how to remove the hot spots from it and are generally just comfortable coiling then move on to more fancy builds. The advantage of (almost all) advanced coils is more surface area for better wicking and juice retention, there are also the offbeat ones like staged (dual) heating. I am a big fan of simple twisted wire coils, they are incredibly easy and work much better than simple single wire coils.

    --------

    Prepping The Wire: When you pull the wire off the spool be careful, if you don't hold tension the whole thing is prone to come unwrapped rather quickly. Work in longer lengths than you will actually need, screw ups are frequent and wire is cheap. Cut off a length of wire and you'll notice that it isn't exactly straight, or really at all, but this has an easy fix.


    To straighten your wire: At one of the wire make a small 90 degree bend, insert this end into your drill with the wire centered and the bend sticking out the side, the bend allows the pincers to grab onto the wire. Grab the other end with a pair of pliers and apply light pressure (too much will cause the wire to snap). Start up your drill noting the direction it is spinning. It doesn't take more than a second or two, if the wire snaps it has spun more than enough (it tends to snap at either end but can be in the middle in which case you have to start over).


    Annealing the wire: Thin wire like we use tends to be 'springy' making your coils unwind when you release tension, the thinner the wire the worse it gets. But again I have an easy fix. Holding the wire straight with tension, either with a vice grip or the drill or pliers or whatever you have, use a BIC lighter or a small flame to apply heat along the length of the wire. You want it to just start to heat up, not glow orange, if you see smoke coming off the wire move to another area because that one is done. Some people recommend dunking the wire in water when done but I just let it air cool.

    [Optional] Making twisted wire: Take however many strands you wish to twist up and line up all of the ends with the 90 degree bend, cut the other end so that they are all equal lengths. Before inserting into your drill I find it helps to make a few 'starter twists' to keep the wires even and from coming undone. Remember how I said to make note of the direction your drill is spinning? Well it is time to spin in the opposite direction. Clamp your wire down in your pliers (not the drill) with the bent end sticking out a few millimeters. Grabbing the wires by the bends twist them by hand a couple times in the same direction as your drill is now spinning (opposite of the direction you used to straighten the wire). Now you can insert them into your drill. Start the drill slowly and don't go past a medium-high speed overall or the wire is more likely to snap, if it does it will 'unstraighten' on the end near the drill and become a mess to work with. If you are using a long length of wire (I would say over 8" but YMMV) it is best to release the wire halfway through and insert the opposite end into the drill (you do not need to reverse the direction of spin on the drill, it will work as is) because the end nearest the drill will twist the fastest this will provide a more even twist across the entire wire. It is totally up to you how much you want to twist the wire, if it snaps though it means you either went too fast on the drill or it has reached its limit of twisting (you can usually reinsert it and get a few more seconds of twisting out of it though).

    -------

    Building a coil with the linked jig: I'm only going to cover using the jig I recommended up above because if I didn't I would be here for all eternity, ask 10 people how to make a coil and you will get 12 answers. That jig is super easy to use, cheap, and makes coils better than you ever will be able to by hand.

    Start by selecting the inner diameter of your coil, the jig provides nails ranging from 1mm to 3mm. Unscrew the cap from the base unit, insert your chosen nail, and screw the cap back on over it. Insert your wire from the top through the small hole on the base and grip down on the end of the wire with your thumb, you only need to pull the wire down to where the cap screws on to get plenty long leads. Taking the other end of the wire (the long portion sticking out the top) give it a small start around the nail, a quarter or half turn is all it needs. Put the piece with the corresponding size hole (the piece you the nail is originally stored in / marked with the sizes) over the top of the nail, push it down making sure the wire is between the screw and the nail. Twist the corresponding piece to wrap the wire around the nail, this requires almost no pressure if you do apply pressure you will end up with a pancake and not a coil.

    Once you have however many wraps you want push down on the base piece and the corresponding piece to put pressure/sandwich the coil. Hold this for at least 30 seconds to a minute, it will help tighten the coils and keep them from unwinding. Some people pull on the wire leads with pliers to tighten them up but I do not like doing this personally because it changes the number of wraps as well as causes the leads to be made from part of the coil (as in not straight leads).

    -------

    Mounting your coil: Insert your coil leads onto your post and tighten them down. Be careful about over tightening or having your leads at strange angles as this can cause the coil to bend such that on one side the wraps do not touch and on the other overlap, it can also cause other weird deformities that ruin all the work up to this point. Roughly position your coils, using the nail from the coiling rig will help to keep the coil from getting bent. Make sure the coils are not touching anything as this will cause them to short. Clip your leads.

    With your mod on a low to medium power setting begin to slowly pulse the device until the coils begin to glow. You want them to glow from the inside out, evenly, and at the same time. This will pretty much never happen right away. You are looking for spots that heat up unevenly. Using your ceramic tweezers squeeze and manipulate the coils, this is hard to describe but you'll understand it right away I'm sure. You can also use the coil jig nail to turn the coil and tighten the wraps (i.e. if the coil was originally inserted parallel to the deck insert the nail and twist it upwards to a 45 degree angle or even vertical, the amount varies from coil to coil but you can tell very easily by looking at it as you twist).

    -------------

    Permalink to Part II: https://www.reddit.com/r/RBA/comments/3xo2lv/rba_coil_question_newbie/cy6qbta

    edit: Oh, and for those curious, I am currently running 3mm quad coils made from 2 strands of 32awg kanthal at 14 wraps each on the Sub Ohm Innovations RDA and the Kanger KBOX. They read in at 1.4 ohms and I fire them at 35-40 watts.
u/mrfyote · 2 pointsr/woodworking

hey OP, i'll try to answer a few questions for you if i can. i've got a handful of years of experience building custom cabinets, but am no doubt not the foremost on education in this field :)

working with wood is a lot different than working with steel, but it shares some common similarities, as i am sure you know already :)

in all simplicity there are 4 main components of a cabinet, i will use the following as reference in my reply:

a) the main cabinet or box.

b) the face frame

c) the back

d) any removable shelves/doors/etc



1) joinery

when building cabinets, etc i always start with the box

tools required: router, straight cut bit at T" or in this case 3/4", clamps, straight-edge, wood glue, compressor and brad nailer

most material used in cabinetry is usually 3/4" thick, so T=3/4"

once you have all your box material cut to size (there is an easier step you can do, i'll explain in a bit), you'll want to mark all side pieces at proper measurements of non-removable shelves at top of shelf - T. (this usually consist of a top and bottle, but in your multiple cases you'll have a few boxes with hard-fastened shelves in between)

the next step is cutting groves into your side panels for the non-removable shelves to set it.

set your free hand router up so it's cutting 1/2 the depth of T, in this case it will be 3/8". find out how far it is from the fence to the edge of your bit, practicing on a piece of scrap wouldn't hurt.

run the router along the fence cutting groves in each location.

you probably don't want the bottom of the cabinet to hit the floor, i always raise my bottoms so the bottom shelf is flush with the top of the face frame, so make sure to measure twice! :)

anyways once you've done this, you'll have a nice grove to fit your cross-shelves into

glue and nail accordingly.

as far as the intermediate up and down structures, such as the middle in http://i.imgur.com/TG9hwh.png?1, you don't require such groves.

ok moving right along, let's jump to face frame joining

tools required: miter saw, screw gun, pocket hole jig, wood glue, clamps

after you've got your box, you'll be ready to build your face frame

since you don't have a ton of money (who does?) to buy an expensive face frame joiner, Kreg has a nice pocket hole jig which i've used regularly for a while now. http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W

cut and rip your face frame components to size, turn over and clamp the jig, drill your pocket holes.. once this is done for the outer-frame, clamp and screw them together using wood glue and some pocket hole screws, kreg provides a few in the kit to get started, and Lowe's will well the kit and the screws you'll need to complete your project.

once you've done the outer frame, move into the inner frame, etc and rinse & repeat.

it's best to do this on a flat level surface you can clamp the two pieces down so they won't move, but don't worry if you're a fraction off from being flush and sticking up a hair, you can fill that with putty and sand down to flush later.

once you've built your face frame and cabinet boxes, you're now ready to glue and nail them together.




2) what wood to use.

a) for cabinet boxes and shelves

if you're going to stain it, you can probably find a decent price on red oak at your local lumber yard, this should range from $40 to $50 a sheet, depending on area

if you're going to paint it or just don't care if you stain it and doesn't have to look fabulous, you can use a cheaper paint-grade Birch plywood, often available from $20 to $40 per sheet and location

b) face frame wood you can use some select grade pine (usually stains and works well even with red oak plywood, of if you find it cheap enough (improbable) some red oak which is usually really pricey)

3) structure

if you groove the main non-removable shelves like i suggested, you won't have a problem.

if this unit were being mounted to the wall you could add some extra "nailers" but that won't be necessary in your situation





i think i've gone over the basic questions you've asked so far. if i've missed something and if you have any questions on anything feel free to ask so i can elaborate more.

it's a really interesting project you have and i'm sure you'll have fun with it.

once again, feel free to reply to me and i will answer as best i can :)



EDIT: oops, i forgot to mention the backs :)

when you're routing the groves in for your shelves, you'll want to provide a grove for the back material as well.
this isn'tnecessary, but it will provide a clean look when viewing the finished piece from the side, as you won't see the 1/4" back material.

a simple 3/8" grove 3/16" deep the length of the sides will suffice

when you mount the back, you can use 1" or less brad nails or a pneumatic stapler if you have one available.

and mount the back BEFORE you mount the front face, frame, as mounting the back is a sure way to square up the unit

you'll mount 1 side first, then 1 bottom to square.



u/GnashRoxtar · 8 pointsr/EDC

So in my mind, the basics of an EDC are a knife, a flashlight, a pen, and a notebook. Depending on your preference/level of preparedness, though, multitools are great, a gun is convenient if you're in a dangerous place with any regularity, and a first-aid kit can literally be a lifesaver.

So for the basics I'd recommend:
Knife: a Kershaw Leek or Scrambler. The Leek is smaller, more discreet, very light, and razor sharp. The Scrambler is considerably more robust, has a longer blade (3.5" vs. 3"), but weighs more as well. Both can be found in Kershaw's "Blackwash" finish, which I like both for the feel and for the added rust and scratch resistance. Both are also spring-assisted, which is legal in a lot of places, but check your local laws before carrying either in public. If you can't carry them, take a look at the Cold Steel Voyager. It comes in several lengths, is legal in California, and is very durable, if not super comfortable.

Flashlights: Oh my god, the flashlights. LEDs have become so cheap and so bright over the last few years that it's actually pretty hard to go wrong. Nitecore is currently my favorite brand, but Fenix has some options as well. I would urge you not to buy a surefire; they are undeniably great lights, but unless you expect to encounter truly extraordinary circumstances on a regular basis (any chance your light could fall under a tank or a bulldozer? maybe surefire is for you), they tend to be somewhat more pricey per lumen than a number of other companies. For EDC, the Fenix PD35 2014 edition is almost unmatched. Almost a thousand lumens, takes rechargeable batteries, and small enough to drop into the front pocket of your jeans, if you don't want to use the included clip or holster. If you'd like something more keychain sized, the Nitecore SENS series comes in several sizes and battery types, and automatically adjusts the brightness of the beam based on the light's orientation. Aim it at your feet and you get a soft glow; aim it off into the woods and it grows steadily brighter.

Let's be honest, a pen is going to get lost. The best pen is one you like enough to keep track of, but one you won't miss too terribly should some co-worker walk off with it. I like the Zebra F-301. Writes smooth, classic stainless steel good looks, and comes in RGB & Black. Notebooks depend entirely on personal preference too, but the smallest Moleskine is easily pocketable and has 32 lined pages.

In my mind, there is only one name in multitools. Leatherman has a kick-ass reputation, a 25-year warranty, and a plethora of tools to suit any need. For the casual EDC, I'd go with what I believe is the second-lightest full size tool, the Skeletool. 7 functions include a knife that opens while the rest of the tool is closed, the ubiquitous pliers/wirecutters, two double-sided bits and a driver; and it looks so. freakin. cool.

I dunno much about guns except that of all the things I've listed, a pistol should be the one you consider most carefully, especially whether you need it or not. It's a big investment and a bit of a lifestyle adjustment if you decide to go CCW. I've always heard 9mm and up, so use that as a jumping-off point.

First aid kits are useless unless they're both small enough to be carried anywhere and large enough to contain anything you might need. Making your own is a good idea because you have the best knowledge of your environment, but I found a couple on Amazon which seem to have most of the basics without too much fluff or bulk. The first could be stuffed in a jacket pocket, whereas the second would be useful in a car.

I hope I helped. Good luck!

[Kershaw Scrambler] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I04MOIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Kershaw Leek] (http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1660BLKW-Folding-BlackWash-SpeedSafe/dp/B00J14BOBU/ref=pd_sim_sg_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MHD47WR72RJ9HJVWCZN)

[Cold Steel Voyager, 3 inch] (http://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-Voyager-Tanto-Plain/dp/B00322LQB0/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1417535788&sr=1-5&keywords=cold+steel+voyager)

[Fenix PD35 2014] (http://www.amazon.com/Fenix-PD35-Flashlight-EdisonBright-Batteries/dp/B00DR9GWX0/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1417536075&sr=1-1&keywords=fenix+pd+35)

[Nitecore SENS AA version]
(http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Flashlight-Active-Dimming-Lumens/dp/B008J4CHNW/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1417536301&sr=1-2&keywords=nitecore+sens)

Zebra F-301

[Moleskine "Cahier" Notebook, pack of 3] (http://www.amazon.com/Moleskine-Cahier-Journal-Pocket-Ruled/dp/8883704894/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1417536675&sr=1-1&keywords=moleskine+small)

[Leatherman Skeletool] (http://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-830846-Skeletool-Multitool/dp/B000XU9NXW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417536920&sr=8-1&keywords=skeletool)

[Small bag or pocket first aid kit] (http://www.amazon.com/AAA-Piece-Commuter-First-Aid/dp/B000SL0R9K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417537142&sr=8-2&keywords=first+aid+kit)

Larger car first aid kit

EDIT: aspace

u/Dogwithrabiez · 12 pointsr/chefknives

You're new to the industry, and new to cooking. Quite frankly, your skills are at the point where you won't really have a huge preference one way or the other, and you won't perform any differently with a 50 dollars knife versus a 5000 dollar knife. Similarly, fancy whetstones, glass stones, sharpening systems, etc won't make a difference either.

Right now, get the basics. Good solid stuff that's relatively cheap so that you can figure out what you like, and don't like. You have 1300-1500 to spend-- Good. Save it for now. Industry doesn't pay much. Here's the basics to start you out that has the best bang for buck, and gives you some different styles and feels to try out, so that you can figure out what you'll eventually enjoy the most. If you want more information on any of the knives, let me know.

https://www.amazon.com/Tojiro-DP-Gyutou-8-2-21cm/dp/B000UAPQGS

This is a knife that's full tang, VG-10 steel(same as Shun), and has decent heat treat. Western style handle, with a westernized santoku Japanese style blade. At 60 bucks, it's a steal.

https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Fibrox-45520-Frustration-Packaging/dp/B008M5U1C2

Ubiquitous western style knife. Steel is the same as the more expensive Wustofs, Mercers, and anything that claims to use "German Stainless Steel". It's all x50crmov15, with slightly different heat treats. Victorinox does it right.

http://www.chefknivestogo.com/kohawagy21.html

HAP40 high speed tool steel. This is the high tech stuff used in blade competitions. Japanese style handle, maintains a really sharp edge for a really long time. A little more expensive, but that kind of steel for that price is really, really worth it.

https://www.amazon.com/Winco-Chinese-Cleaver-Wooden-Handle/dp/B001CDVXUK/ref=sr_1_7?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1485154695&sr=1-7&keywords=cleaver

Look, a cleaver's a cleaver. You don't need fancy steels or anything-- You just need a whole lotta force behind a whole lotta steel. Hone and sharpen often, and this'll do great for you.

Speaking of cleavers, though...

http://www.chefknivestogo.com/cckcleaver2.html

Chinese cleavers are awesome. They're not actually cleavers though, don't use them on bones and the like-- They're the Chinese version of the all purpose chef knife or gyuto knife. Chinese chefs are expected to be able to do everything with this knife, from fileting to tourne to peeling to chopping to brunoise, so they're actually quite versatile. Speaking of which-- This also fills in for the Japanese Nakiri role. Tons of fun to use.

https://www.amazon.com/King-Sided-Sharpening-Stone-Base/dp/B001DT1X9O/ref=sr_1_1?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1485154779&sr=1-1&keywords=king+1000+6000

This is a fantastic stone, one that Master Bladesmith Murray Carter uses. I ran a knife sharpening service, and this is the one I used for most knives as well. Since you won't have to deal with weird recurves and tantos and nightmare grinds and the like that can show up on folding knives, this will serve you very well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004WFU8/ref=twister_B010SQ9IXK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

This is in case you get some gnarly chips on any knives. This'll get it out quick and easy. Bonus-- Use it to flatten and maintain your King stone. This and the King stone is all you really need for sharpening. You can easily get a shaving edge with it.

Besides those, stick with what you got in the Mercer kit for the specialty knives. You really don't need fancy versions of those. You also really don't need a serrated utility knife at all. In the professional kitchen, the three knives that saw the most work were the overall chef knife(even for fileting and some light butchering), the 4 dollar Victorinox paring knife(quick and easy to sharpen), and the Mercer tourne knife.

Buying all this will amount to 431.31, giving you a combination sharpening stone, a flattening/reprofiling stone, and 5 fun knives of all different kinds to play with, at a fraction of the cost. You'll notice I didn't put any Super Blue or White #1 steels in there-- That's because A) They're more difficult to take care of, and B) They're really overpriced for what they are, simply because their "japanese" moniker makes people think they're super laser swords from a land of secret steels(they're not). The HAP40 steel beats these steels in pretty much every category.

Hope you found it helpful! Have fun with whatever you decide to choose.

u/jimmysugi · 3 pointsr/chefknives

I know you said you wanted a Japanese handle but I think you should consider a Misono Molybdenum. It was my first knife and I’m honestly still happy with it.
Its inexpensive, tough, takes a pretty good edge, and has good fit and finish. It won’t take as keen of an edge as the knives you mentioned.. but its easy to sharpen which is great if you’re learning how to.

I own a Ginga too and its pretty amazing but I wouldn’t want it as my sole knife. It’s a really thin blade so its a bit more fragile than the Misono. I personally would rather have a tougher knife if I only had one.

I also really like the Hi-soft cutting board. It’s easy on knives, has some weight and theres very little maintenance. Just don’t put it in the dishwasher.

Misono Molybdenum 240mm ~ $112.50

(Korin is having a 15% off sale on knives right now)
http://korin.com/HMI-MOGY-240?sc=27&category=280076

Hi-Soft Cutting Board ~ $48.00

(From Korin. Combine the shipping with the Misono)
http://korin.com/HiSoft-Cutting-Board_3?sc=28&category=286082

Bester 1200 ~ $55

(Leaves a good edge alone)

OR

Shapton Pro 1000 ~ $35

(I like the Bester better but this is a really good deal on Amazon Prime)
https://www.amazon.com/Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Medium-Grit/dp/B001TPFT0G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500081962&sr=8-1&keywords=shapton+pro+1000

Suehiro Rika 5000 ~ $50

(Optional.. nice to have tho)

Atoma 400 ~$60

(For stone flattening. You can buy a cheaper plate if you want)
https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Diamond-Sharpener-Medium-400/dp/B0031KNR2O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500081982&sr=8-1&keywords=atoma+400
I know the link says generic.. but this is an Atoma 400. Just make sure you buy the one that is Amazon Prime

I wouldn’t spend all $500 at once. You can always buy a nicer knife later.. and having two knives is convenient anyway.

u/StonePotato · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Greetings all!

My main suggestion to anyone wanting to get into vaping it is to skip the ego-starter kits, MVP2 (cheapish Vv or Vw boxes), non-rebuildable tanks (Protanks, Nautilus) and just drive right into the mechanical mod / box mod world. I say this because the vaping experience is so much better with rebuildables. I went with the all of the above, and I personally wished that someone would’ve told me to just dive right in, because all that stuff is sitting around not being used. The people that I’ve talked to are typically hesitant to do so because of the coil building, but there are so many YouTube tutorials, suggestions and information on /r/RBA and /r/electronic_cigarette that it’s much easier than it seems. Anyway, if I were to start all over again, these are the things which I’d buy.

Must Haves
These are the things which I consider essential to starting off the on the right foot. I’ve purchased a lot of things, and these are the things which I suggest to my friends. Most of the links are from Amazon, because it’s what I’ve primarily used.

Battery - Sony VTC5
http://www.eciggity.com/2-pc-sony-18650vtc5-2600mah-30a-battery/

These are pretty much the standard when it comes to “safe” batteries. They’re affordable, good amp limit and have been recommended many times. If you purchase from the link above, they also give you a plastic carrying case!

Charger - Nitecore i2 or Nitecore i4
http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-IntelliCharger-i4-Battery-Charger/dp/B005UAI372/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404287334&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecore

Affordable, reliable and these won’t “overcharge” your batteries. The difference between the i2 and i4 is the amount of batteries they can charge at a single time. They also have a new fancier one out, called the Digicharger D2 and Digicharger D4. Those are nice because it has a LCD panel that displays a lot more information than the i2 and i4. I personally use an just an i2.

Mechanical Mod - Stingray
http://www.vaperoyalty.com/hcigar-stingray-mod-stainless-steel/

Now, 90% of what is suggested for an actual mechanical mod is going to be of personal taste. The Stingray is the “older brother” of the Nemesis. This is what I purchased when I first started out vaping. The unit is very easy to break apart, clean, has a locking ring, has a floating 510 connection and venting holes in case of a battery leak. Almost everyone I know has a Stingray.

Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - Magma by Infinite
http://101vape.com/rebuildable-atomizers-tanks/309-magma-atomizer-clone-by-infinite.html

One of the best purchases I’ve made. The juice wells are very deep compared to everything else on the market (that doesn’t have a tank system). Threads are nice, easy to build on, post holes are large and the air-flow is easy to manipulate. You can run this on a single coil or a dual coil. Blows almost all the other RDAs I have out of the water. This is my main RDA.

Organic Cotton - Maxim Hygiene Products Organic Cotton Balls
http://www.amazon.com/Organic-Cotton-Balls-Triple-count/dp/B00E8T2X36/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288337&sr=8-3&keywords=organic+cotton

I suggest using un-bleached, organic cotton. Some people take it one step further by washing them, I think thats taking it a bit far and I don’t do it. You can pick them up from any convenience store or supermarket (CVS, Walgreens, Target, Whole Foods), a 100 count will last you AGES.

Kanthal - AWG A1 26 Gauge
http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-Gauge-100ft-0-40386-Resistance/dp/B00HALND7Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288659&sr=8-1&keywords=kanthal+26

I like to use 26g kanthal wire for my dual coil builds. 26g is a bit thicker than what a lot of people suggest (28g), but for me, because it’s thicker, it’s easier to work with.

Screwdrivers - Stanley 6 Piece Screwdriver set
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009OYGV/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The screwdrivers which come with your RDAs are short, small and crappy. I like these screw drivers because they come in a variety of sizes and you do not need to mess with a drill-bit. What I really like about these, is at the end of the drill bit is a small little ledge (can’t think of a better word), where you can push your coil and scrunch it up a bit.

Ohm meter / Multimeter - Any generic ohm reader or Innova 3300
http://101vape.com/meters/170-ohms-meter.html

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O1X65A/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can use a multimeter to do basically the same thing as an ohm reader. The multimeter has an added benefit of being able to read the volts are your battery as well. I have both, but I prefer to use a “regular” ohm reader. This video below can teach you how to use a multimeter for that purpose.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgXAmPBAO5g&index=2&list=LLU7AM2JUxXCrj4TSCDQDffw

Optional items
Things that I’ve purchased that you can probably substitute with something in your house. They’re nice to have, most people have these, but I decided to link these anyway, because I didn’t have some stuff (my scissors were too large).

Scissors - Generic surgical scissors
http://www.amazon.com/Amercian-Diagnostic-Corporation-3425-Stainless/dp/B000GHIUR2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289491&sr=8-5&keywords=surgical+scissors

To cut your cotton. Small, sharp and gets the job done.

Tweezers - Ceramic tweezers
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007588/1655800-heat-resistant-stainless-steel-tweezers-for-e

Allows you to hold your coil together and torch them without heating up the tweezers.

Wire cutters - Hakko CHP-170
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For cutting your kanthal off that spool!

Atomizer holder - Plano 23630-01
http://www.amazon.com/Plano-23630-01-Stowaway-Adjustable-Dividers/dp/B000E3FKVC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289861&sr=8-4&keywords=plano

You’re gonna buy a bunch of atomizers. Everyone buys a bunch. You’re not going to be able to help yourself. I use this plastic case to keep everything neat and separated.

Building deck - Tenderfoot Stands
https://www.facebook.com/tenderfoot.stands?fref=ts

You don’t need this. But it makes building RDAs easier. You can also place your juice filled RDAs on here.

Torch - Mini Jet Flame 503
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007A9YSPW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This will help you get those coils nice and tight, without having to fire off your mechanical mod.

Battery Case - Bluecell
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q6PJO8/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you don’t buy the batteries from the link above, you’re gonna want a battery case. Do not keep your batteries loose in your pocket or floating around your bag. They can come in contact with something metal and potentially damage the battery.

u/__Why · 5 pointsr/declutter

Strap in, this got kind of long! I hope it's useful to someone.

I too have the "need a lot of bins and boxes and whatnot" situation because of my and my partner's hobbies. I sew and crochet and embroider and work with leather, and he works with electronics and 3d printers and so on. We share a small (10' x 10') room for our workspace and all of our most commonly accessed supplies.

Being someone who gets fixated on ideas frequently, I suggest that you open up your search to other options other than interlocking boxes. The reason I say this is that I am surrounded by bins and have been working with various sized bins to access things for a long time and I am tired of them. The problem is similar to what many other posters have mentioned: Getting items out of the boxes (even if they are small) is an Ordeal, especially if you have multiple boxes out, or if the box is very full and hard to put back together.


In general, a rule of thumb is to think about how you'll put your item away rather than how you'll access it. When we want access to something, it doesn't seem like a big deal to undo bins, bags, boxes, slide heavy things around, etc. because we get a reward at the end (yay, it's the thing! shiny!). After that, the idea of undoing all that stuff seems like a pain in the arse, and we just don't want to do it? (and what if we might need another thing from that bin? So, consider how you'll put it away, rather than how you'll get it out when designing a storage solution.


So, I am now moving away from the lidded box approach and encouraging my partner to do the same. Having watched Adam Savage's video describing first order retrievability, I am moving in that direction (although not yet to his ninjery level). Here's the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWQAYfGxsPE.


I suggest the following types of storage for smaller objects. Bins still work OK for larger objects but someday I'd like to move away from that too.

  • Akro-Mills Parts organization drawers. They come in many different sizes and types. They are durable, versatile, come with their own drawer dividers, they are wall mountable or usable on a desktop surface. We use these for all of the objects we reach for frequently for different applications (memory cards, bulldog clips, popsicle sticks, magnets, command hooks). https://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-10144-20-Inch-16-Inch-Hardware/dp/B003P2UOCO

  • Stanley Organizer boxes. These boxes are extremely useful when you have a lot of tiny objects of different sizes to sort (like nuts, bolts and hardware or amigurumi eyes). There are bins in each storage thing that are fully re-arrangeable and removable - you can get several of these and customize each one to your needs and then pull out just the little bins you're interested in to work on. These have their place, but are best used as 'project' or 'many of one type' oriented storage https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B00005QWYF

  • This video on using plastic bins as drawers. I did this for my two 4' workbenches and I love it. This allows me to quickly swap out project specific bins if I need to, and I now have the ease of access of drawers with the containerized pleasure of bins. I use these drawers every day for things like webbing and elastic storage, crochet hook storage, sewing machine accessories, sewing patterns, etc. I have currently taken to reserving one bin per workbench as a trash can and omg is that useful to have an in-table trash can - I'm thinking of drilling a hole in my benchtop so I can just swipe bits and pieces directly into the trash. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kjyg6RWDlZw

  • Pegboard / slat wall. I personally like the metal Wall Control brand because I have a love affair with magnets. I use this for thread storage (I can thread my machine directly from the wall, without moving spools around!), bobbin storage, clips, pins, tape that gets used daily (painters, duct, electrical, etc), instant access tools are mounted on magnetic bars attached to the board. I also stuck magnets on the back of a bunch of stuff (empty soup cans, plastic bins from the stanley boxes, thread locker, sewing machine oil, etc) and now I can just kind of throw those items at the board and they stick. Extremely efficient and functional. The various hooks and things are also highly useful. Comes in many different sizes and shapes (and colors!) with accessory kits optimized for different situations. https://www.amazon.com/Wall-Control-30-WGL-200GVB-Galvanized-Organizer/dp/B002LZSWFW

  • A tool chest (even if you don't have "normal tools"). We use this for hand tools - it is really nice to have screw drivers, wrenches, utility knives and tape measures at our finger tips. Ours holds a ton of stuff, fits on our metro wire shelving perfectly, and has held up like a champ in the 3 years we have it. Also it's metal, so I can stick things to it with magnets. We have this one: https://www.amazon.com/Excel-TB2105X-Blue-26-Inch-Steel-Chest/dp/B002BETIQA
u/freeshavocadew · 1 pointr/knives

5 knives

Above is a link to 5 folding knives that may or may not fit what you're looking for and 4 are well within your price range of under $120. One is slightly above at 139.00 on Amazon, but the Chrome extension called Honey is currently allowing a $10 discount. All are made by Kershaw/ZT.

  1. The ZT 0350 is the top knife with the curvy ergonomics to it. It's probably the most basic ZT folder and is currently the only ZT knife I own. It is good for larger hands, it's very sturdy (and heavy) and technically more than $120 but only barely.

  2. The Kershaw Fatback is next to it and has a more triangular appearance. Relatively newer offering from Kershaw, I think, but is certainly proving to be popular. It's as long when closed as the ZT 0350 but is thicker from one scale to the other on the handle AND is lighter. The actual specs for this and all the knives mentioned can be found by Googling them. This knife is currently under $25.

  3. The Kershaw Skyline is probably the most well known knife, I wouldn't be surprised is this has its own lore here on r/knives. It's popular for a reason being lightweight, and well tested as an older, mainstay model from Kershaw. As you can see, mine is showing wear and scratches compared to the other knives! Amazon is currently listing the basic version of this knife for $46.

  4. The next one is the Kershaw OD-1 which is DISCONTINUED. I didn't know this when I took a photo of it for you and started this list. This means the price is higher than you'd pay normally and isn't really available on Amazon or in stores. You can find it on the link provided (I think) which is to one Stop Knife Shop, you can also try Ebay or Bladeforums to find a used one. The link provided appears to be offering this knife for $53, but I don't know what condition that's in. The one I bought on Amazon back in like 2013 or whatever was ~$30-$35. I actually have two of them, but I'm not sure where the other came from. They are cool knives, fun to play with, but not tacticool.

  5. The last one pictured is the Kershaw Cryo and is currently available on Amazon for ~$19. It is the smallest of the knives shown, smaller than the Fatback with the triangular handle by what looks like 2 inches when open. This would be a great beater knife, something that would be a fine flipper and used briefly but would not be comfortable for extended use, especially in large hands. If memory serves, there's two different Cryo models with 2 different sizes, but I have only the one you see. Could be the smaller of the two models.

    NOT PICTURED but I do also have the Kershaw Blur which Amazon is listing at ~$35 currently which is HIGHLY recommended even though it doesn't have a flipper. It's spring assisted opening and a very comfortable grip for larger hands. That price is so good, they're normally $55-$60 that I'm grabbing one of them again as an extra.

    I could list like 4-5 more Kershaw knives but my comment is too long already. If you would prefer more variety in recommendation, Spyderco has some solid options but if you want to go BALLS DEEP into tacticool, one of my most valued knives because it was bought for me as a gift was the Cold Steel AK-47. This knife is quite a bit larger than the ZT shown but is nearly the same price at ~$125-130 on Amazon. You might be able to find it cheaper on Ebay. Be careful though, there is the regular and mini version!
u/LMNOBeast · 1 pointr/BudgetBlades

A little late to the party... You are following the same trajectory as me. I'm just now expanding into fixed blades, but before you put the brakes on budget folders you should check out a few more options.

The Coast FX350 (9cr18mov, G-10, frame lock, 3-position clip) is a beauty for under $20. The BX315 (9cr18mov, rubberized handle, lock back) is great for wet work and is currently selling for just under $15—it has a sheath instead of a clip because the large rubberized grip doesn't slide in and out of pockets very well. The BX315 also has a little brother, the BX300.

If you like the Kershaw Link's profile then you should try a Flock (8cr13mov, FRN, tip-up clip) that's going for $15. It is a dealer exclusive that was poorly marketed and escaped most people's notice. Probably one of the best Kershaw deals going right now.

Spyderco's Spy-DK is currently selling for $30. It's a special non-locking model for Denmark knife laws. It's old school slip joint action but you get a N690Co blade that is a step up from their more expensive budget folders.

Back to fixed blades...

As I mentioned in another comment, Schrade is a good place to start for budget fixed blades—check out the SCHF36 Frontier for under $30. One thing to note is many fixed blades in this category are going to use 1095 steel which typically requires some maintenance, but most are powder coated to address this. Don't let 1095 scare you away from some nice options.

Now, I know you are looking for budget knives but there is a mid-range option that you may want on your wishlist. If you have an Ontario Rat folder (which you should) then you might want to compliment it with a Rat 3, 5, or 7. Like I said, I wouldn't consider Ontario fixed blades as 'budget' but they're a bargain compared to brands like Tops.

I hope this helps and have fun exploring, this rabbit hole runs DEEP.

u/Rick91981 · 10 pointsr/HomeImprovement

You can spend WAY less. For one, buy tools as you need them, not all at once. To address some of your tools, here is my input. For reference, I am a homeowner and hobbyist woodworker, not a pro.

Table Saw: That Jet is overpriced for what you get. If you want to spend that much, get a SawStop, if you want a comparable saw to the Jet for significantly less, look at the Grizzly G0771z. I have the older revision of this saw(g0771) and love it. https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-T-Shaped-Fence/G0771Z

Miter Saw: Ditch it. Anything you can do on it you can do on the table saw. Certain things are a bit easier on the miter saw like cutting molding, so if it is something you insist on, get a cheap one. You'll be surprised how little you use it.


Drill press: Can't beat free.


Router: Save yourself significant money but buying the Bosch 1617EVSPK. It is a combo plunge and fixed router(interchangeable bases) and is widely regarded as one of the best routers you can buy. https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Combination-Horsepower-Variable-1617EVSPK/dp/B00005RHPD

Router Table: That one is nice, but there are cheaper options, such as build your own with MDF or look for used on Craigslist. This is a nice one, but expensive.

Modular Table Base: Not sure what you have in mind, but if you can build it definitely do so.

Jet Clamps: Nothing wrong with those, but they are expensive and probably more than you need. Have a harbor freight near you? Their clamps are cheap and decent enough. For more heavy duty applications, get some pipe clamps.

Dewalt Planer: If you have a need for a planer, yes this is the one to get.

Delta Jointer: Don't bother. You probably don't have a need for a jointer right off the bat and when you do, don't bother with the tabletop models. They are very limited with what you can get straight due to the short beds. Get a floor standing one with long beds. 6 inch wide if you must, 8 inch if you have the means.

Jet dust collector: This is another area where Harbor Freight shines. Jet is overpriced. The HF 2 HP is a great buy, make sure to use a 20% off coupon. https://www.harborfreight.com/70-gal-2-hp-heavy-duty-high-flow-high-capacity-dust-collector-61790.html

Band Saw: Don't bother with a 10 inch, it will be seriously limited. With the money you are saving on the other tools above, up your budget and get a Laguna 14|12 or 14bx. If that is too much, look for an older used 14 inch delta. Those old ones require a bit of cleanup but are built like tanks and will last you forever. No matter which saw you get, throw out the blade that comes with it and buy a good one. The Highland Woodworking Woodslicer blades are nice value for the price: https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx

Nail Guns: Do you really need a nailgun? And if you do, does it really need to be cordless? How much do you plan on using it. A combo kit with a compressor can be had for less than the price of one of the battery operated ones.

Paint Sprayer: How much do you plan on painting? A good roller is a lot cheaper if this is a one and done kind of thing.

Good luck and if you have any more questions I'll be happy to answer whatever I can.

u/SirRipo · 4 pointsr/EDC

For the record, I feel the same that the Cryo is too slippery - which is why I'm super glad Kershaw released a G10 version of it last year.

I also agree that the Tenacious is just a bit too big for EDC - and they do make the Persistence, which is a shrunken version of the Tenacious, with a 2.75 inch blade vs the Tenacious' 3-3/8 inch blade. If you wanna go even smaller, the Ambitious has a 2.25" blade. All 3 knives share a similar design (though the Ambitious is small enough that the proportions might look a little weird to some).

A few other knives of note that are standouts in the sub-$50 price range:

  • CRKT Ripple - Ken Onion design with a more-traditional drop point blade, IKBS, 8Cr14MoV. Usually on most people's "Under $50" list.

  • Kershaw Leek - Again, a little slippery and still Speedsafe but a slightly weaker torsion bar so not as forceful. Some people have issues with broken tips since they're a little thin, but this thing was the best under $50 when it came out.

  • Ontario RAT 1 - At $25 this thing is a pretty great package, if not a little big. 3.5" blade, but it's AUS-8 if you don't like the 8Cr China steels (even if they are pretty similar).

  • SOG Flash II - again, a 3.5 inch, AUS-8 blade. Assisted opening, but much less forceful than Speedsafe.

  • The Kershaw Emerson CQC-6K has blown up since it's release and a lot of high speed low drag tactical types love it for EDC use. $25 makes it a pretty appealing choice and rock solid under $30.

  • The Spyderco Delica 4 is just a touch over $50, averaging about $60, but it's also a go-to knife in the $50 for many people. VG-10 steel on this one is a big selling point.

  • On the same hand, the Kershaw Blur is usually available for about $60, and for those looking for a big folder (seriously this thing is large) it's a great choice. Sandvik 14C28N as standard steel, also available with S30V for about $75.

    A few notes here

  • You'll see a lot of sub $50 knives using 8Cr13MoV or 8Cr14MoV. The main difference is a little more Chromium in the 8Cr14MoV, leading to a little more corrosion resistance. A lot of people loved the Skyline, but there were a few issues with minor rust spots on the knives, leading to many companies switching to 8Cr14MoV for some of their knives (most of the budget Kershaws are 8Cr14MoV now).

  • Kershaw has many many options for budget folders under $50, for all kinds of aesthetic tastes. The Chill, Thermite, Link, Oso Sweet, etc. I've owned a handful of Kershaws, and loved all of them, especially for the price.

  • The 8Cr steels (13MoV and 14MoV) are pretty much on par with AUS-8, especially from CRKT, Spyderco, and Kershaw who all do a good job on their heat treats. There's a slight difference in hardness (3 to 4 HRC difference by most counts), but really they're nearly identical for all intents and purposes, mainly sharpening and edge retention. Some people just prefer AUS-8 because they don't like so called "China steel."


    ETA a few more links and some clarification of my still-awake-at-5am rambling.
u/sunnypreposition · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon
  1. I have a pizza cutter similar to [this one] (https://smile.amazon.com/Pizza-Cutter-Stainless-Integrated-Mozzbi/dp/B01DLHGXA4/ref=sr_1_6?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1496203463&sr=1-6&keywords=pizza+cutter) but the exact brand isn't on here because I bought it from a different site. It is by and far the best I've ever used. I went through quite a few trying to find one that cuts well :)

  2. I keep [this] (https://smile.amazon.com/Kershaw-1660-Onion-Folding-SpeedSafe/dp/B0009VC9Y0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496203582&sr=8-1&keywords=kershaw+onion+leek) with me at all times. It was a gift from a friend many moons ago. We were all amazed that he had bought it on amazon.com because back then we thought amazon only sold books :D

  3. My favorite mobile app is [Pokemon Go!] (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.nianticlabs.pokemongo&hl=en)

  4. [This] (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00BJQPX8S/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IA15C3NOZJXFA&colid=2Z0D7A1SRJBDE) "welcome" mat is amazing.

  5. [This] (http://www.valuecityfurniture.com/product/item/accents/furniture/tv-stands-and-media-centers/grenoble-media-credenza-teal/1639347?utm_medium=cpc&gclid=CjwKEAjwsLTJBRCvibaW9bGLtUESJAC4wKw1q_R1JBCXLoWCo0obyzyn2NledF37RbGhZ7qI0Y-BUxoCMMTw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds) is my favorite piece of furniture. I bought it on super duper black friday clearance and I just love it. It's distressed and holds a lot of crap inside of it. It helps give the appearance of adulthood!

  6. I have a much cheaper version of [this] (https://smile.amazon.com/Eye-Vac-EVPRO-Professional-Touchless-Stationary/dp/B0011G20QY/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1496203991&sr=1-1&keywords=electric+dustpan) (also an off brand not bought on amazon) and it's really awesome. It has a setting that senses when you sweep stuff to it and just sucks it up. My room mate is "floored" by it and loves it almost as much as I do!

    shrdbrd you lazy bum, heres some cool stuff.
u/thompssc · 6 pointsr/EDC

Descriptions with links

  1. Moleskin mini-notebook.

  2. Zebra F-301 Bold: Notebook and pen get dropped into my shirt pocket. On weekends, whether they come along is completely dependent on whether my shirt has a shirt pocket.

  3. Seiko 5 SNK793: Just got this last week actually, but I really like it. I had a Hamilton Jazzmaster before and, while a quality piece and I love the style, the case was just too big/heavy for my liking. I found myself wearing my Timex weekender on a NATO strap more and more. This has a very similar case size, although slightly thicker/heavier due to automatic movement. Something classy/understated enough for work.

  4. Maratac Copper AAA: I really love this thing. This is not the newest version (rev 3), so it only has low/high, but that's all I really need. Feels very solidly made, I have dropped it numerous times and it has nary a mark. Despite the exterior being solid copper, it isn’t as heavy as I thought it would be and I never even notice it in my pocket, even in dress pants. I leave the clip on so I can set it on my desk/counter and not have it roll off, but often don’t bother to clip it to my pocket. Sometimes I’ll clip it to my coin pocket in jeans but usually just leave it in my right pocket with my keys. I don’t know what to say other than that I really love this thing.

  5. Leatherman Squirt ps4: Very small, disappears into my pocket. Even in dress pants at work, I don't feel this weighing them down at all.

  6. Keysmart with 2 apartment keys: The rivets tend to come loose, which is a little annoying. May throw some Loctite or something on the threads to keep them be. Otherwise, I like it.

  7. Nexus 4: Love this phone. No intention of getting rid of it anytime soon. Unless they come out with a phone that will bake me cookies or dispense coffee, the only reason I'll move on is that this one dies.

  8. SOG Fielder: SOG Fielder. Just like guns, black means you obviously want to kill people but any kind of wood stock/handle means you probably just have it for utility. /s I actually really like this knife. Very classy, feels good in the hand, good weight. I get lots of compliments on it.

  9. Crappy wallet from Wal-mart or something

  10. Springfield Xds 3.3 in 9mm in a Crossbreed minituck
  • Love this pistol. Fun to shoot at the range and feels great in the hand. Well built, well balanced. So far, nearly 2k rounds in, no FTFs, no jams, no light strikes, nada. Trigger is a little stiff, but that kind of comes with the territory for a gun designed for CCW. I ordered the PRP trigger kit to lighten it a bit. Also, I’m probably going to have night sights installed soon. Nothing wrong with the stock ones, I just want night sights :).

    Minituck holster is great. I hiked 10 miles in the White Mountains last weekend and hardly noticed this setup at all. Will most likely go with Crossbreed for future holsters. I can successfully tuck in a shirt around the gun if need be with this one. (I do not carry at work because my employer does not allow it)
u/Gereshes · 23 pointsr/EngineeringStudents

Going through undergrad commencement this weekend had me thinking about my time in undergrad and more specifically, those things I chose to carry with me almost every day.

Starting from the upper right hand corner and working my way around in clockwise direction.


Pens – 3 Disposable Bic pens – When it comes to pens I leave them everywhere. I leave them in class, the lab, the machine shop, etc. Because of this I buy them in bulk and then just carry a bunch of disposable pens with me. They are cheap so if I lose one or someone asks to borrow one I don’t worry about getting them back. I like these pens because I find they are comfortable to write with, wont break from me carrying them around or treating them like shit, and have a pen cap to prevent them from making a mess in my pocket. Why no pencils?  I haven’t found a mechanical pencil that is both cheap and will survive in my pocket. If you know of one that fits those two requirements let me know in the comments!

Highlighter – Used for marking up academic papers I am reading. I’ll usually carry one or two with me but I keep several different colors at home for heavy markup. The colors I like carrying on me are odd colors, not yellow, like green and pink because they let my markups stand out from other peoples markups.

Sharpie – Used for marking up things that pens and highlighters can’t like metal, ceramics, and sleeping lab mates.

USB Drive – I don’t use it all that often thanks to free services like Google Drive and Dropbox but  everyone in a while when you don’t have access to other options these can really save you. For example like when you need to print out a final report that’s due in 15 minutes and the internet is down. (That example definitely hasn’t happened to me)

Letherman Skeletool – The Skeletool is a good all around multi-tool. It has a knife, pliers, wire cutters,/strippers, screwdriver (both flat an Philips), and a bottle opener.  It’s slim so its easy to carry without giving up a lot of functionality.

Timex Weekender Chrono – Useful for telling time if durring both meetings and tests when you cant check your phone. Taking a peek at your watch durring a meeting is unnoticeable unlike when you check your phone which can be considered rude.

TI-84 – The second most useful tool in my entire engineering education after a pen. I’ll often use the calculator instead of Matlab or Wolfram Alpha for doing homework that require simple computations just because I’m so familiar with it that I can operate it extremely quickly just from muscle memory.

Planner –  It’s useful for writing down assignment due dates and meetings. Everyone has a different way of organizing events/work an I find havving a written copy helps me visualize where everything is.

Muji Recycle Paper Bind Notebook – Useful for taking notes in meetings and they can fit in my back pocket

Allett Slim Bifold Wallet – It’s an ultra thin bifold wallet that I love. It’s so thin I never even notice it in my pocket. I can sit on it all day without being uncomfortable. My last one became worn out after two years and I bought another one immediately. I highly recommend them!

Keys –  For opening doors/stuff. Note: I just grabbed some unused keys for this pic and put them on a carabiner.

Google  Pixel – It’s taking the photo. Lately its mostly been used for snap chat

u/Moumar · 4 pointsr/woodworking
  1. Around the $200-250 mark is the sweet spot of good routers in my opinion. I haven't personally used it but this bosch gets very good reviews and costs $200. I personally have this Triton router. It really depends what features you need. The Bosch is a good general use router which will be able to tackle most tasks. The Triton is good if you intend to use in a router table because it has a built in lift system. Another nice thing about the triton is its basically a fixed based and plunge router in one so you dont have to change the bases. That's not really a big deal as changing bases isn't hard but it is nice.

  2. Pretty much all routers will come with a fence for straight cuts. Others than that jigs depend on what tasks you want to use the router for, I don't think there's any must haves. Most router jigs can be built out of offcuts and scraps so you can just make them as you need them.

  3. Yes, you can replace the functionality of a router with hand tools. It might not be practical though and will definitely cost you more money. A router basically replaces any joinery plane or moulding plane. You'd need a plough plane, rebate plane, router plane, and a half dozen moulding planes to replace the basic functions of a router, and more for specialty work. Before routers a wood worker would have around 50 to 60 different planes to do the jobs a router can do.

  4. Companies like Ryobi don't necessarily make crap tools but they're geared towards people doing DIY type work. They aren't made to the same level of quality as better brands. In my opinion for something like a router its worth getting something a bit better.

  5. Routers have a lot of functions, too many to list. You've covered the basic ones such as mouldings and joinery. Some others include inlay and template routing. They're a very versatile tool. I wouldn't worry too much about learning everything all at once. Once you start using it you'll learn how it works and what you can do with it.
u/IDontWatchTheNews · 2 pointsr/chefknives

Of course man! This is a very helpful sub, so keep coming back for help if you need on your knife journey whether it be sharpening or other suggestions.

And if you have the want, and know you’re gonna get something in the future anyways, there’s nothing wrong with grabbing a new one! You’d definitely have every right lol... Just imo proper care comes first. You don’t want to sharpen it yourself before you know how because you don’t want to scuff or scratch it, but at the same time it’s pretty much impossible to ruin a knife beyond repair...

As for whetstones, you have a couple options. The King 1k/6k is probably one of the most popular and recommended, but I would recommend spending a bit more and going with the Imanishi combo 1k/6k. I think it’s a much better stone and I can more comfortably sharpen any of my knives, whether it be my cheap Tojiro DP, “hard to sharpen” Misono UX10, or some carbon knives. People have said the King is “slow and sloppy” and doesn’t work as well on higher end steels. Never used one, but I love my Imanishi. You should be able to sharpen anything to arm-hair-shaving sharpness with that.
You can also guy with a solo 1k, as 1,000 grit is really all you need to keep your knives sharp... This would obviously open a lot more doors as well. I love my splash and go Shapton pro, very good stone that you would have good use for when you upgraded and got better with other stones. Instead of listing off a bunch of 1k stones, I’ll leave it with just the one and you can let me know if you have other questions. I’d suggest going with the combo still.

u/Connguy · 7 pointsr/makemychoice

Edit: for the record, I posted this before the lasybugs thing took off

You're not going to make any great progress on a PC build for that price. Besides, PC tech is changing so quickly, you shouldn't buy any one piece of it until you can buy all of it.

If you're looking for X1 games, I'm a huge fan of Destiny, but it's not for everyone. If you're looking for more of a sure hit, check out Shadows of Mordor or Dragon Age: Inquisition.

If you want to change things up a little, here are some of my favorite purchases (I'm a minor Amazon addict):

u/Bigslug333 · 6 pointsr/chefknives

I recommend the Victorinox Fibrox, it performs well, it's comfortable and it's very durable. If you find the Fibrox handle too ugly, they offer the same blade but with a rosewood handle.

Care wise, touch up the edge with a hone to ensure it performs the best it can before you begin preparing food. Eventually however the edge will wear down, at which point you will need to sharpen it. For this I recommend the Shapton Kuromaku 1000, for guidence on how to use a whetstone check this playlist out.

The whetstone itself will also need to be maintained, as you use it you will wear it down unevenly and it will need to be flattened. Most people use a diamond plate but there is a more cost effective option that I use which is lapping the stone using SiC powder on glass, which is done like this (be aware however, that this method is MUCH louder and a bit messier than lapping with a diamond plate).

If all of this sounds like too much and you want a more simple care solution then you can get by very well by just using a ceramic sharpening rod. It combines the ability to touch up the edge quickly before use with the ability of a whetstone to remove material from the blade.

I got by with just a ceramic rod for a long time, but eventually bought whetstones when I wanted more control/better long term maintenance.

u/SKWAAAARK · 28 pointsr/Warhammer40k

>He mentioned that your armies go obsolete like every 2 years! Is this true?

No, not really. New rules will come out every few years, which may force you to alter the roster of models and wargear you’re fielding, but models are almost never written out of the game.

>Should they just start with A Start Collecting Pack?

Yes. Start Collecting packs are fantastic.

>This pack would be a 500pt or 1000pt?

Start Collecting packs are closer to 500 points. There isn’t an exact point number because you can change the number of models in a squad or give them different wargear.

>Co worker also suggested taking them both to GW to see if they can even get their head around playing the game as the rule book is pretty intense…

Yeah, going to a game shop and having someone experienced walk you through the game is a pretty good way to get a handle on the basic rules. GW shops love new people, although they tend to be very pushy salesmen.

>Or should they get a Rule book to read. Then their codex. One wants Necrons the other Dark Eldar. And then decide on a 1000pt army and start buying/building/painting etc?

I’d say see if a game shop can give them a demo first before you commit to models and books. This stuff is expensive.

Don’t worry about what a 1000 point army is. It takes time to get there. I say…

  1. Start with a demo. If they like it, move on to…

  2. …the Start Collecting boxes, a small-format copy of the core rules from ebay, and the Codexes for whichever armies they chose. You'll also want primer, paint, brushes, plastic glue and/or loctite superglue, a pair of sprue cutters, and some small files.

  3. Once they’ve got a handle on the basic army rules that cover what they already own, use the codex to figure out what you’d need to add to build a good 500 point list, then 750, then 1000. Your ideas about what to include in your army will change as you gain more experience with your opponents.

    (Also don't let them buy new boxes unless the ones they have are already built.)

    Good luck!
u/Vanq86 · 2 pointsr/Bushcraft

First I'd make sure you both have all the clothing and footwear you need to be comfortable and the things you'd need for an urban day out (pack, water bottle, some snacks, etc.). Nothing ruins a day like an unexpected blister / rain shower that causes a chill / burned hand from a fire.

After that I'd consider basic survival needs and comforts that might be different in the woods. A small survival kit (and the knowledge required to use it), toilet paper, bug spray, gloves to protect your hands from heat and thorns, a tarp (which you already say you have) to escape the sun or rain, etc.. One suggestion I have that I don't see mentioned often is a lightweight foam kneeling pad. You can get them at the dollar stores in the gardening section usually and for the negligible weight and space they're worth having in my opinion. They are great for kneeling on (obviously), which you'll be doing a lot when practicing bushcraft skills like fire making, and they make a huge difference for the backside when sitting on ground / logs / rocks that are hard / wet / dirty.

With comfort and survival covered you can look at the real 'tools' of bushcraft. The most important thing, in my opinion, is a good knife for each of you. Soooo many projects / skills that are considered 'bushcraft' require / are made easier when you have a decent knife. You don't need to spend a lot (a Mora Companion is a great choice for under 10 dollars), just be sure to do your homework before spending money so you don't end up with something that looks cool but isn't practical for your bushcraft needs.

Beyond the knife I won't go into details about the rest of my suggestions but I think you'll find reasoning behind them fairly self-evident. I've been bushcrafting / camping / hunting for the better part of 2 decades now and all items I list below are all ones that I've personally used many, many times and wouldn't recommend if I didn't find them awesome and reliable. If you look into them further I think you'll find most / all are considered the best 'bang for your buck' option in their given class.


Mora Companion fixed blade knife - carbon or stainless doesn't matter, both are great: ~$12-15

Nalgene leak-proof water bottle - The cheaper HDPE bottle is actually better believe it or not: ~$5-8

Bahco Laplander folding saw - Silky saws are worth the upgrade price in my opinion but are definitely just a 'nice to have', considering Bahcos can't be beat for the price / function / reliability: ~$20-25

Sawyer Mini water filter - filters twice as good as the LifeStraw (0.1 vs 0.2 microns), lasts 10 times longer (100k vs 1k gallons), is much more versatile (you can screw the Sawyer onto a 2 litre coke bottle), and costs less to boot: ~$19

Fiskars X7 hatchet - I know you already have one bust I figured I'd mention it. For a bombproof, light weight, made in Finland hatchet it can't be beat for the price: ~$20-25

Tramontina 18" machete - great balance and blade, just sand or wrap the handle in some tape if yours isn't finished perfectly to avoid potential blisters (this is also where good gloves come in) - ~$15-18

u/lianodel · 2 pointsr/boardgames

Ah, okay. Still, super glue isn't a bad option for plastic.

Oh! The one other optional thing I forgot would be some kind of epoxy putty. It comes in strips of two colors, which you knead together to activate it so it will eventually harden. It's used to fill in gaps where you fit together pieces that don't fit together quite right (or imperfections in the model). The most common is "green stuff" made by GW (though I've seen other brands). Again, totally optional, but you can keep it in mind if you have a model that didn't come together quite right and you'd really rather fix it than let it be.

The way you thin your paint isn't the thing that's going to clog your brushes. Much more important is how you use and maintain the brush. Try not to get the paint deep down into the ferrule (the part where the bristles meet the handle), like by pushing the brush down hard onto the palette or model. Also, be sure to clean your brushes when you're done! A little soap and water is plenty. Some people occasionally use conditioner (it is hair, after all). I use this. It's great because you can soap up the brush after you get the paint out of it, reshape the point, and let it dry. It helps keep the brush in the right shape.

As for clippers, I just picked up the ones my local hobby shop had in stock. Xuron. They've worked great, and cut through plastic and metal nice and neat. Again, one of those things that are nice to have but not strictly necessary. You could also probably use something cheaper, as long as you don't try to get too precise (which might go off and scratch the model). Most board game minis won't have any use for them, but they'd be handy for something that comes on sprues like KDM.

And I'm glad to help! Let me know if you have any more questions. You can also go to /r/minipainting for more.

u/NoRedditAtWork · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Good breakdown from /u/Koridel - this guy's pretty much right on point, OP. I've got a Minigrip and a couple Delicas, about the same sentiment as he holds but less experience with using the BM, so less wear-related problems experienced. I don't really carry the minigrip because it's a bit too small to fit my palm/pinky securely whereas the grip on the Delica's great. I carried a Delica as an EDC for over a year, still break it into the rotation just for nostalgia - it's a great little knife.

One question - doesn't seem like funds are a huge issue, but have you looked at a Skyline? You can pick one up for ~$33 from Amazon and it's been a sleeper hit for me. There's a pretty strong following for that knife and I'd heard good things about it before, but I didn't really think much about it until I YOLO-bought one of the damascus models off BladeHQ. Handle ergos are great, the blade is a great size for how slim the knife is when folded.. eh, just something to consider if you don't want a big thump to your wallet. Only thing is that, being a flipper, it'll be a bit more noticeable while deploying if you snap it out, otherwise it'll be slightly less natural/comfortable when going with just the thumbstud than others.

Hope that helps some

u/zapatodefuego · 7 pointsr/chefknives

I have the Shapton Pros 1k, 2k, 5k, 8k, and 12k.

These stones are very fast cutters but give very little feedback. I like them a lot for my double bevel knives as they are quick, easy, and don't require a lot of pressure or passes. They are not the best options out there but they are the easiest I've tried. I've read that the Naniwas are definitely better but they are also twice the cost and more if you go for the Kuromakus.

Of the stones I have the 5k is the best. This is also the most versatile grit as its appropriate for both protein and vegetable oriented knives. It does overlap with your King but I expect it's significantly better.

The 2k is also pretty good and I prefer it over the 1k. For lower grits I would consider getting some that is not a Shapton.

The 1k does all right but I much prefer a softer stone if I'm going to do the kind of work one does on a 1k. It's hard to feel when things are going right or wrong with this stone, and the others in the line. But it matters more with a low grit. Usually I just use the 2k instead.

The 8k is pretty good. Again I like it a lot for double bevel knives but not single bevel. I can get a comfortable shave after just the 8k without a strop if I'm having a good day. Alternatively I also use my Kitayama 8k which does an all around better job but the Shapton is just so much easier to use and much more forgiving of mistakes.

The Kuromakus on Amazon US are grey market stones. While they are much cheaper and certainly legal for you to buy, they were probably not legally brought into the US. Someone likely got them wholesale in Japan and shipped them to the US without paying tariffs. Other people have done worse things but its still up to you if you want to buy these. They are the same Shaptons you can get anywhere else. Here are the Kuromakus on Amazon UK.

u/organic_meatbag · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting
  1. Wrap the LED strip around the plastic container to this effect: https://imgur.com/oB98Qxl . Make sure you wrap so that the power cable connector will be at the bottom of the container. Make sure you secure the beginning and the end of the LED strip to container with a piece of tape.

  2. Wrap the LED'd container with aluminum foil - shiny side facing inward. Lay out a long piece of foil on the floor, shiny side facing up, just enough to cover the container's length once. Secure the beginning of the foil piece with a piece of tape, and then secure the end of the foil. Try to wrap without causing creases in the foil, keeping the foil as shiny and smooth as possible. Make sure your power cable plug in point is popping out and able to be plugged in.

  3. Secure a piece of foil to the base, shiny side facing inward.

  4. Secure a piece of foil to the lid, shiny side inward. Take a piece of tape and make a 2-sticky-sided loop to secure the foil. Make sure the foil is not interfering with the lid's ability to securely close.

  5. Wrap the whole thing with your gorilla or duct tape. Make sure your power cable plug-in point is popping out and able to be plugged in.

u/abnormal_human · 14 pointsr/woodworking

I recommend going slow with hand tools. Buy them one or two at a time, and then learn to use, sharpen, and care for those before buying more. This will help you get the best stuff for you while spending as little as possible. Let your projects guide your tool purchases.

Amazon isn't a great place to buy hand tools. Most people shop at either Lee Valley, Lie-Nielsen, or eBay for planes, chisels, saws, rasps, etc. That said, there's a surprising amount of stuff you'll need that's not the tools themselves. Personally, I wouldn't want to saddle myself with an inferior tool just to use a gift certificate.

Anyways. Stuff you SHOULD buy on amazon:

Hand Tools

u/jmblock2 · 6 pointsr/santashelpers

Has he applied for any jobs yet? I was given one of those leather pads with paper inside and a holder for resumes (something like this) except it was from my undergrad university with their emblem. Definitely gives you some confidence for interviews and recruiting sessions. Also you can get him some nice resume paper to go with it. That lasted me for years.

I also enjoyed having one or two of these demotivational posters in my room. Depends on his humor and if he has barren walls like I did.

If you know more details about which raspberry pi he has, you could get some shield extensions. These are boards that expand its capabilities. There are also newer boards with better specs. Also with two boards you can of course make them talk to each other ;)

Depends on his area of interest and your budget, but you could get him some kind of [introductory FPGA kit] (http://store.digilentinc.com/fpga-programmable-logic/) or DE0-Nano.

Tools... so many tools he might be interested in. USB logic analyzers are so cheap these days and go well with hobby boards. Again not sure your budget, so you can go all sorts of ranges here (Open Workbench Logic Sniffer or scanaplus or Saleae Logic 8 or a china clone of Saleae Logic 8). Saleae or the knockoff I think are the better options for the software compatibility. He may be in need of a soldering iron or a multimeter.

Something else unique, you could get him a "gift card" (they don't really sell them) or an IOU to a PCB printing service. Ask him to design his own board and you'll pay $X of the service. You'll want to make sure he knows the price structure on the website because they charge per square inch and it depends on his design how many layers he may need. He makes the schematic and they will print some circuit boards for him. They won't mount the parts, just do the schematic and he would have to hand solder the components.

If he likes old videogames you could get him some old school USB controllers and tell him to install lakka on his rasberry pi, or just get him a new Raspberry Pi3 to dedicate it as an old-school console emulator. It is quite impressive how many consoles they have emulated.

And back to more tools... more micro screwdriver bits than you would actually need. You can get him a starter pack of resistors, capacitors, and other assorted electronics sparkfun. There are also so many buttons, switches, LED screen displays, etc. that he probably wouldn't want to buy on his own. Maybe you could get a container with an assortment of circuit components (resistors, capacitors, transistors, and other sensors). Careful! This can add up real quick. All types of sensors exist... ultrasonic rangefinder, stress, photocell, temperature, etc. etc. endless!.

u/AlfonsoTheX · 1 pointr/woodworking

I've bought several things from Amazon for the shop, and they're just the sorts of things that /u/abnormal_human suggests; Woodcraft also sells through Amazon, so you can get some decent hand tools that way, but that's not really "amazon" per se. For a recent birthday my wife went a little nuts on my Amazon wishlist and I received two waterstones, a lapping plate, and this shoulder plane - very extravagant gifts.

Amazon is also a pretty good place to shop for some woodworking machinery if you want to buy new and especially if you happen to have Amazon prime; free delivery on a drill press or a band saw can be kind of a big deal. Those are on my "dream shop" wish list...not going to happen any time soon, but if I can't dream on the Internet...where can I?

Another neat thing that I didn't know about until recently is camelcamelcamel which is an amazon price tracker. Companies adjust their retail price on amazon all the time, and you can set thresholds at which you would like to be notified. For example, here is the price history for the drill press I linked above. Helps to see if it's a good time to buy, or if you should maybe wait.

Have fun!

u/granworks · 5 pointsr/woodworking

Honestly, this question can be asked about any tool. Should a hobbyist buy cheap tools just to get started or spend more on quality tools, but buy fewer of them at first?

For the most part, I'm in the "buy quality tools" camp. I started out on the cheap tools (Skil, Ryobi, etc) and they made a lot of tasks harder than they needed to be. That is, a skilled craftsman could have gotten quality results from those tools but I certainly couldn't. I found that the quality of my work jumped dramatically when I switched to precision tools.

Now... in your case, none of three routers that you're referencing would be in the cheap crap territory, as far as I'm concerned. You'll do fine with any of them.

Some thoughts, though:

The Bosch 1617EVSPK is often considered the gold standard for mid sized routers. Many many woodworkers have that one and love it. You will absolutely not regret getting it.

The DeWalt DW618PK is a direct competitor to the Bosch and holds its own very well. Lots of very satisfied users of that model, too. Another that you'll definitely love.

The Hitachi models... are almost surely worth getting as well. I'll be honest, though -- they aren't talked about as much as either the Bosch or DeWalt.

One final thought: Depending on how you'll use a router, you might consider a "trim" router like the DeWalt DWP611PK. I've found that one to be notably easier to handle than my mid sized and it has handled everything I've thrown at it with aplomb. Really, the only downside is that it can only accept 1/4" shanks and most of my bits are 1/2". If I had more 1/4" bits then I'll likely use the DWP611PK almost exclusively when not on the router table.

u/Continuum_Gaming · 3 pointsr/DnD

Give me a minute, I can link you to a comment I found explaining it in depth

EDIT: I'm just gonna paste it here. For reference, I,believe priming is coating it in a thin layer of paint to act as a base. Use black primer for darker results and white for lighter. Credit to u/pyrese

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

  1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
  1. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
  2. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
  3. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
  • Matte Medium
  • Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  • Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  • Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  1. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
  1. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
u/toxiclimeade · 2 pointsr/knives

If he had been carrying a Swiss Army knife that's probably the style he prefers, Opinel makes single bladed knives that open in the same way his old SAK did, and leatherman makes amazing multitools, I would recommend checking all these brands out.

Opinel knives are usually extremely cheap and run about 20$/£, their most popular knife is the No. 8 for about 12$/£, it comes in other colors and wood types as well. No. 8 is a bigger model and it might be a little bulky for someone use to a SAK, the small the number in the name ex. No. 7, No.6, get smaller as their number designation does. I have the No. 8 Trekking knife in slate and its a pretty great knife for its price (18$/£).

If he likes Swill Army Knives, there are quite a few more options to look at, they can get a little pricey for their size at times, I own the Tinker, this was my first knife and I have found that looking at the tools on these knives would behoove you. I do not need an awl in the knife I carry every day for instance. There are many many options to chose from, and through a little sifting you may find one that you feel suits him best. Victorinox (the brand that makes swiss army knives) also makes knives that are a little closer to the opinels I mentioned earlier, a few of their models (like this one) are simply one or two blades. I would look into local laws however, I know some places do not allow blades that can be opened with one hand like the one I linked you to.

Leatherman makes wonderful multitools and a few pocket knives. Nearly everything they make have blades that lock as a safety feature, although very few can be flicked open, so I would check the specifics of this law, I doubt a multi-tool is illegal. This is the Micra, it appears to be a smaller version of a leatherman I own that I cannot find on their site. This one has a blade that opens in a way that is legal for sure, its blade does not lock either. If you find that some locking blades are allowed, the Skeletool is a favorite of mine, it may look a little outlandish but it has always had the best combination of essential tools out of any of my multi-tools, and it is one of my favorites. The Style is a smaller version with slightly different tools ( I don't think it has screwdrivers), but it's blade does not lock. The skeletool is about 70$/£ I think, and their smaller tools like the micra and style are under 30$/£, this brand has quite a bit more I didn't touch on, if you think he would like something like this I would check out site, I hope you find something that works, I know I'm always thrilled when my girlfriend gets me a new knife.

u/steve9207 · 1 pointr/RBA

Glad it was helpful!

The RDA looks good, not sure the cost of a Plume Veil clone from eciggity, but you might wanna check - it'll come much faster and if you ever need to replace something, the chance of finding a part that fits is more likely, but again for $10, you probably wouldn't pay to fix that.

I'm not super familiar with mech mods, I've got two, but almost always use my Sigelei now, but just make sure you are familiar with battery safety, ohms law, battery limits, etc.

Other items you'll need (let me know if you need links for these items, you can get everything listed below of Amazon):


  • Ohm Meter
  • Good Batteries, I personally like Samsung 25r's, didn't check what size the mod you selected takes though.
  • Nitecore i2 Battery Charger
  • Tweezers, Ceramic makes it easier
  • Kanthal wire, 26ga is probably a good middle point start
  • Wick, you've got a lot of cotton choices, or rayon (cellucotton)
  • Good Scissors for cutting wick
  • Pair of Wire Cutters for Kanthal, I use this one
  • Drill bits / precision screwdrivers for wrapping coils
  • ...I'm sure I'm missing something, someone else can chime in, or I'll edit for anything I've forgotten.

    I hope this all helps, good luck and be safe, ALWAYS, ALWAYS use your ohm meter in conjunction with www.steam-engine.org

    Here was my last RDA build that I took pictures of, if it helps at all
u/pyrese · 3 pointsr/DnD

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

  1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
  1. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
  2. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
  3. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
  • Matte Medium
  • Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  • Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  • Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  1. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
  1. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
u/greath · 4 pointsr/knifeclub

Lol, alright for example:

  • Spyderco Delica 4 FFG: For your price range this is going to be the "best" steel you can get in a near 3" folding knife (VG-10). By best I mean the best edge retention in a stainless steel. However, being over 2.5" in some places (Chacago for example) the knife will be illegal. Also, many people do not like the look of the spyderhole as it can be seen as aggressive in office environments. Also the FRN handles, while very strong, have a cheap/plastic feel to them.

  • Spyderco Tenacious: Compared to the Delica, 8CR13MOV is a "worse" stainless steel (not as good edge retention, more prone to chipping during heavy impacts). However, the extra blade length is better for many outdoor tasks (breaking down tree branches). The handle is also G10, which is slightly tougher and has a much better feeling in hand than FRN.

  • Spyderco Centofante 3: A more "gentlemanly" and "office friendly" version of the Delica with a slightly longer blade. Again, VG-10 and FRN.

  • Kershaw Cryo II: Same steel as the tenacious. Metal handles slightly tougher than G10. Flipper action has "cool" factor. The blade grind makes the tip a touch stronger than on the tenacious.

  • Kershaw Skyline: One of the most iconic of Kershaw's knives. Hollow ground blade makes it great at slicing tasks.

  • Esee Izula: Skeletonized fixed blade. 1095 Steel is significantly better than the other steels listed at "chopping" tasks as it is not prone to chipping at all. It is NOT stainless and so the blade has a protective coating over most of it. The steel will require mineral oil/cleaning to prevent rusting.

  • Becker BK 24: Similar to the Esee Izula but D2 steel which has better edge retention and more corrosion resistance than 1095. It is also much harder to sharpen. Many think the BK24's handle is also less comfortable, the sheath is worse, and there are less available after market modifications.

  • Ontario Rat Series (linked the RAT I. RAT 2 similar but smaller): Ontario's version of the tenacious. Bladeshape generally more people friendly. Another very popular beater option.

  • Morakniv Knives (there are MANY, this is just one): Highly regarded in the "bushcraft" community. High carbon steel (similar to 1095) with a scandi-grind which is great for field sharpening and woodworking. Only partial tangs so not advised to use for battoning tasks or chopping.

  • Kershaw OD-2: Gentlemanly knife with great flipping action.

    There are a LOT more suggestions I could add...
u/catdumpling · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

1-It should, but you'll have to use the extension tube.

2-I'd suggest getting a good clone first. That way if you don't like it, you're not out $100+ dollars. I'll throw another vote in for the EHPro Kayfun Lite Plus V2 being about the best clone out there right now. Eciggity is a reliable vendor and they've got them for $35. They also have a "dual airflow hole" version for five bucks more. Either way, they're great quality and it's still less than half of what you'd pay for an authentic. If you end up really liking them, you can always splurge on an authentic in the future (and trust me, more Kayfuns is more better!)

3-It depends, but probably. A lot of the replaceable coil head tanks tend to use NiChrome resistance wire, which wears out faster than Kanthal. But regardless, you'll end up saving quite a bit of money over replacement Kanger or Aspire heads: a 100' spool of Kanthal is only around $6 directly from TEMco, and a bag of organic cotton balls is about $3 at most drugstores and WalMart. For the price of two boxes of replacement coil heads, you'll have enough wire to make literally hundreds of coils and one bag of organic cotton balls will last you months. It's a huge savings.

4-Same as most everyone else has mentioned: ohm reader (or digital multimeter) and drill bits (especially 1/16", 5/64" and 3/32") for sure. Wire "dikes" (aka nippers, aka snips, aka all sorts of different names) are handy, but a pair of nail clippers works just fine too. If you really want to get wire cutters, this Hakko CHP cutter is excellent and under $5 (or pick up something similarly small.) A "build stand" is really handy, and you can either buy one or make your own by epoxying a spare 510 connector into a piece of wood with a hole drilled in it. Not totally necessary, but it'll make rebuilding a lot less fidgety. I made mine by taking the base of an old EVOD tank (the internal "coil head" threads are actually 510), drilling a hole in a nice piece of flamed walnut I've had forever and epoxied it in with JB Weld.

Oh yeah, and a pair of small-tipped tweezers! Total lifesavers! A pair of needlenose pliers will work too, but I use my tweezers every single time I build a new coil and they're easy to get into small spaces. Totally worth the $4 at your local grocery store or Walgreens or wherever.

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/EDC

Whatever you do when it comes to buying a knife, don't skimp. I don't mean you have to spend a lot, but you should find a "knife class" you like and buy the best in that class.

Honestly, if you're at a point where you don't know what you want in a knife, the best possible place to start is with a Kershaw brand knife, which is the sort of knife even knife enthusiasts don't mind having around, even if it doesn't rock their world. I am consistently surprised with how much quality you get per dollar with Kershaws.

I don't know how big of a knife you want, but I have a Leek and the only word I can use to describe it is elegant. Far more than it should be for what I paid for it.

I started investigating knives with Kershaws and I would still buy them now, even though I've moved on to Benchmades and the like.

A good lighter always comes in handy even if you don't smoke. People are often looking for a light or you may have to melt something or light a candle or something. Nice as Zippos are, I find their design to be a little outdated (they dry out fast if they're not used).

I bought a Vertigo Jolt as an impulse purchase about a year ago and it's been banged around and refilled several times and I really like it; enough that if this one dies I will buy another.

One thing to consider about EDC stuff and maybe this is just my problem: I don't like buying the best of class for EDC because I know it will irk me to have things bang around in my pocket or possibly be lost since I have it with me everyday.

u/Nightfalcon4 · 4 pointsr/Gunpla

Ok, I see this is a bit touchy lol. But it's definitely worth investing in some form of set of tools eventually. Start small. A pair of cutters like this will do wonders in the beginning. A little sandpaper, you can get from the dollar store if you want. And a marker, if you really want to stay cheap with it, you can use a crayola marker and wipe away excess with a tissue or q-tip.

I want to share my hobby with someone who wants to get started, but remember, it is a hobby and it is still a model. It's part of what makes the experience awesome. You can start small and always revisit a kit if you want to make it look better. You don't need the marker or pen, but it does add a new dimension to the kit. An X-acto is recommended, but not required. The motor control happens with time and patience.

But I digress, just remember, this is a model. Like any other model, you can make it look amazing, but you need to also put forth the effort. Good luck on your kit and remember, it's about having fun lol. Or else why do it in the first place?

u/TesselArts · 1 pointr/gamedev

I've rolled my own engine for my most recent project as a solo developer; if you're interested, you can see it here.

​

Existing engines are absolutely brilliant; Unity and Unreal especially are insanely powerful and applicable for a large percentage of games or graphical apps. They do however, come with a large amount of bloat as they need to be designed to account for a huge variety of needs. This invariably, makes them not performance efficient for a type of app which requires specifics only.

Look at the 'Wenger Giant' Swiss army knife; it undoubtedly does more than 99% of other Swiss army knives but that doesn't make it better for all of those tasks in isolation. If you just want a few of the things it can provide, you're better off buying a smaller product for ease of use (i.e. 2d game, get gamemaker) or individual bespoke tools (rolling your own engine).

​

Could Unreal or Unity do all of what I needed? Kind of. Do the needs of my project align with what they provide as a primary performance focus? Well their main strength is to work with apps which need to pre-load assets and have them display beautifully in a scene. If you need that, use them, they're perfect.

They can do large scale areas but they're not focused for that so it's a bit of a deficit if you try to force them this way too, hence why I think so many open-world games use others/their own engine. You can still get decent results though. It's when you look at that 'pre-load and display' main service they provide and realise that's not what you need at all, then a custom engine might be the best way forward.

​

For me, needing large areas, focused heavily on particle systems which drive movement, all procedural during runtime, as well as real-time generating skyboxes, using weird compute shader texture update logic per-frame etc etc. Basically very little of what I need aligns with their main goals so using Unreal/Unity would have meant a more limited product overall as none of these things are exactly what those engines are focused on.

In my example, my engine can be tailored to accommodate what I need specifically, instead of battling to override what they're really built to provide, meaning much faster performance. Also, if there is a bug, I know it's caused by something I've done instead of being hidden away in the engine.

​

It's slower to make your own engine (Probably took me about a year to get mine right) but the ability to focus it makes it so much better for certain circumstances.

u/Null_Finger · 2 pointsr/Netrunner

What to store things in


I use binders for commonly used cards and cardboard boxes for "bulk" cards (The cards you don't think you will use very often): 5000 capacity box, 800 capacity box

I also hear that these Stanley Organizers are also incredible for storage, as each compartment is the perfect size for a sleeved MTG commander deck (100 cards).

The binder should definitely be sorted. Not only is it more organized that way, you can find the cards you need much faster. The box can be unsorted, though I like to at least keep cards belonging to the same faction together.

This does run into the problem of occasionally not knowing whether a card is in the binder or box, but it has the advantage of giving you quicker access to the cards you most commonly use. I mostly do this because of habits from MTG, where you get tons of useless cards, but Netrunner doesn't give you nearly as many useless cards, so you could make the argument for storing all your cards together instead of differentiating between commonly used cards and bulk.

How to sort cards quickly


Your cards can be in whatever order you want: completely alphabetical, by faction and then by type and then alphabetical, by set, whatever. Your personal preference.

However, when it comes to sorting cards, or anything in general, there are fast ways to sort and slow ways to sort. Anyone who has studied computer science can attest to this. The difference is small when you only have a few cards, but quickly becomes massive as the number of cards grows.

Here are the two sorting algorithms you should know if you want to sort your cards quickly: Quicksort and Merge sort. They are among the fastest algorithms out there, they're easy to understand, and they're practical for sorting cards by hand. I'll explain them in the context of sorting cards below.

Quicksort

Here's how quicksort works for computers: Choose a "pivot" item at random from the unsorted pile. Now, go through everything and divide it into two piles: Those that would come before the pivot, and those that would come after the pivot. Then, sort each pile individually (usually with yet another quicksort). Once the piles are sorted, just combine them and put the pivot in between them, and voila, the pile as a whole is in order.

However, if you're a human, you'll find it more efficient to sort based on certain characteristics of the card that you can quickly identify (such as the card's faction) instead of whether or not the card comes before or after a randomly chosen pivot. In addition, you'll want to separate into multiple piles instead of just 2.

Here's an example: You want your cards sorted by faction and then in alphabetical order. You already sorted you cards by faction, and now, you want to sort your Anarch cards in alphabetical order. The cards you want to sort are in the following order: Wyldside, Demolition run, Deja Vu, Grimoire, Corroder, Medium, Yog.0, Stimhack, Parasite. The first step of quicksort is to divide the cards into piles. When sorting alphabetically, I like to make a pile for cards from A-E, one for F-M, one for N-R, and one last one for S-Z. However, as long as every card in one pile comes before every card in the next pile, it doesn't matter how you make your piles. So, dividing these unsorted cards into piles (according to my preferred sorting scheme), we get the following piles:

{Demolition run, Deja Vu, Corroder}, {Grimoire, Medium}, {Parasite}, {Wyldside, Stimhack, Yog.0}

Each individual pile is not in order, so we sort each pile individually (I would use another quicksort on these piles if they were bigger) to get:

{Corroder, Deja Vu, Demolition run}, {Grimoire, Medium}, {Parasite}, {Stimhack, Wyldside, Yog.0}

Then, we just combine the piles and we're good.

Merge sort

Here's how merge sort works for computers: Divide your big pile into 2 separate piles, and then sort those piles individually (Usually with another merge sort). Then, once the 2 piles are sorted, merge the piles into one sorted pile. The merging process is made much easier by the fact that the two piles are already sorted individually.

Here's how the merging process works: Look at the top item of both piles. Whichever one comes first gets added to the bottom of a new combined pile. Repeat until both piles are empty, and voila, your combined pile is sorted in order.

Example: You have the following sorted piles: {Demolition run, Yog.0, Wyldside}, {Corroder, Parasite}. The first elements of our 2 piles are Demolition run and Corroder. Corroder comes first, it becomes our new combined pile. Now, the top item of our 2 piles are Demolition Run and Parasite. Demolition run comes before Parasite, so it gets put at the bottom of our combined pile. The top cards of the piles are: Yog.0, Parasite. Parasite is put at the bottom of the combined pile. The second pile is now empty, so just put the rest of the first pile at the bottom of the combined pile. The combined pile looks like this: {Corroder, Demolition run, Parasite, Yog.0, Wyldside}. It's sorted, yay!

If you're a human, you'll be doing mostly the same thing as the computer. However, instead of having to lift up the combined pile to put a card at the bottom of it, you can instead make the entire combined pile face-down and add cards to the top. When you're done merging, just flip the combined pile upside-down.

Which one?

From experience, quicksort is a lot better if you have an unorganized mess to sort.

However, if you're adding some brand new cards to an already sorted collection, you'll want to use mergesort instead, since your collection is already sorted. Simply sort the new cards, and then merge the pile of new cards and your already sorted collection.

How NOT to sort your cards

Perhaps you currently sort your cards like this: Pull a card out of the unsorted pile, find out where it goes in your pile of sorted cards, then put it there. Repeat until unsorted pile is empty.

Or, maybe you do this: Go through the unsorted pile, find the item in the pile that goes below every other item in the unsorted pile, put that item at the bottom of the sorted pile. Repeat until unsorted pile is empty.

If they feel slow, that's because they are. They're mathematically inferior to quicksort and merge sort. The first method is actually OK if you want to just put back a card you took out of your collection, but if you have more than a few cards to add to your collection, merge sort instead.

u/MakerGrey · 23 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I spent nearly 20 years as a cook-then-sous-then-exec in fine dining kitchens. I've bought cheap knives, and I've bought expensive knives. I finally found my sweet spot split between Misono Swedish Carbon and Misono UX10s. I have a few different styles of knives in each, and they each have their ups and downs. The downside to either of those is that they're not exactly cheap (but you can spend way more if you're so inclined).

On the cheap side of things, this series of knives form Victorinox is probably the best value out there. For a home cook, these are absolutely bifl, but they're not exactly sexy.

My recommendation when anyone asks me a question like this is to go for the Mac Professional Series. They're fancy enough to be a little special, but not so special that you're afraid to use them. Full disclosure, I still use a Chef Series Mac 5.5" utility knife. In a professional kitchen, your utility knife gets so much more use than you'd imagine, so having a cheap one without the bolster is nice in case someone drops it in the fryer and kills the temper, or kicks it under the dish station etc. For home, I'd get the nice (pro series) version.

Anyway, for a first investment in nice knives, I'd go for an 8" chef's knife, dimples or not, it makes no real difference, and a 5.5" utility knife. The second addition would be 10-12" carving knife. Of course, a serrated bread knife and a small paring knife are necessary, but that's where those Victorinox knives I linked above are perfect.

I'm sure the bifl crowd here will crucify me for recommending stainless, but unless you're using your knives every day for hours a day, it's way too easy to get lazy and you end up with pitting and rust on all those fancy carbon knives, and that makes you less likely to use them.

For sharpening, get a 1000/6000 grit whetstone. When I was cheffing for a living, I hit the 6000 every day, and the 1000 once a week. Now, I cook dinner maybe 4 times a week, and I hit the 6000 once a month, and the 1000 like once or twice a year. Keeping the knives in cases helps with this. Drawers will kill the edge. Youtube has plenty of tutorials on how to use a whetstone and keep everything straight.

As far as "sharpening" steels go, it's nice having one around if you're doing a ton of knife work and need a quick touch up, but slapping a knife on a steel is not the same as sharpening it, and if you let the edge get truly dull (by hitting the steel instead of sharpening it), you'll have a bear of a time getting the edge true again.

Anyway, if you buy something made by an ancient Japanese craftsman who's older than the volcano he forges in, sure, it'll be cool and have fancy wavy lines. If you buy garbage it'll be garbage. Whatever you do, just know that nothing screams recent culinary school graduate than a Shun santoku.

note: I've written "you" a bunch in here. It's less pretentious than saying "one may sharpen..." and less clumsy than referring to your partner at all times . I hope you'll forgive me.

edit: tl;dr get the Macs

u/HeloRising · 3 pointsr/DicePorn

I'm a huge advocate for dice boxes. Don't get me wrong, I love dice bags, but I'll take a box over a bag for general use any day.

Best place to get them is a thrift store. Comb through and I guarantee you'll stumble across something wonderful. Old jewelry boxes are the best, you can find ones from the 40's and 50's made of solid wood and they're virtually indestructible and most already have felt inlaid in them already.

You can use these for storage and rolling if you get the right one. If the lid comes off, some felt will turn it into a handy dice tray for rolling. You can buy a dice tray if your storage box doesn't allow for it. They're relatively inexpensive and it'll be the best thing you can buy for gaming since dice.

Craft stores will have ready-made boxes that you can stain and sand if you're feeling DIY but I avoid these generally because the woods are a bit softer and the boxes themselves are not very well constructed. On top of that, they can be expensive and you still have to do a lot of the work yourself. Best to go with a Goodwill find; much cheaper and you get a better box out of it in the end.

For general storage, I tend to go for a screw case. They're dirt cheap and keep everything sorted but be sure you get one with wells deep enough for your dice.

I use an open top box lined with felt that I got as a giftbox years back in conjunction with a bag. I have an amazingly soft purple leather pouch that I use to transport the dice I'm going to use for that game then I just roll in the box. Everything goes back into the screw case when I get home and no dice get lost.

...I really need to stop watching Good Eats.

u/Robot_Spider · 4 pointsr/fpvracing

I'm in the process of building my first FPV drone with my 11 year old son. Tools I owned or have purchased for this are:

A set of small screw drivers. I found a set in the bargain bin at NAPA Auto that had straight, philips, a few hex, a few sockets.

A decent electronics soldering station. Not the gun. I have a digital Weller that is easy to control, but the analog is just as good for these purposes.

A third hand. There are many different kinds. I got a cheap $5 one at Harbor Freight. Not great, but does the job.

Solder, de-soldering wick, flux (maybe)

Depending on where you're doing your work, might want an air-filter or fan.

A magnifying lamp is helpful but not necessary.

An assortment of board stand-offs/spacers is handy.

A good small pair of wire snips.

Wire stripper

A digital multimeter is not a bad idea.

Those are all the major tools you might need. Plus all the drone parts. batteries/charger. Radio/receiver. Camera/receiver(goggles or screen).

In short, it's a lot of stuff. The drone parts end up being the least expensive part, honestly.

Above links are just examples, not necessarily endorsements.

You mentioned you're on a budget, which I totally understand. Building is not the cheapest route, but it's been a lot of fun so far. People who've done it for a while tend to forget the cost of tools. Once you've built one, subsequent drones are relatively cheap. You can re-use batteries, the charger, most decent radios, even the receiver.

If you're not in a hurry, Bangood is a good source for cheap(er) parts. You're on your own for support, usually, but there's lots of help out there.

u/s_s · 8 pointsr/Ultralight

Philosophy: spend as much money as you can on the best Big 3 you can. Leave worrying about shaving grams with titanium mugs and other small shit until you get bored and you budget is bigger. :)

Big 3: $610

  • Tarptent double rainbow - $275
  • Enlightened equipment - RevX 40 - $180
  • ULA CDT - $135
  • Thremarest Ridgerest SOlite (Torso length) - $20


    Cooking: $24.50

  • Stanco Greasepot: $10
  • Tritan LMF spork: $2
  • Supercat stove: Free
  • Aluminum foil windscreen: free +effort
  • Reflectix pot cozy: $10 + effort
  • Bic mini: $0.50
  • Waterbottles: 2x 1L Kroger-brand generic smart water bottles: $2


    First Aid: $32

  • Scentless Zinc oxide creme: $5
  • Moleskins: $2
  • Dr. Bronners unscented baby-mild soap: $5
  • Band-aids: free
  • Ducktape: free
  • ibuprofen: free
  • Imodium: free
  • 100% DEET: $5
  • sunscreen: free
  • Aqua Mira tablets: $15

    Clothing: $64

  • baseball cap: free
  • bandana: free
  • synthetic t-shirt from walmart: $5
  • dri-ducks 100 wt fleece $32
  • nylon gym shorts: free
  • running shoes: free
  • socks (2 pair): $27
  • garbage bag poncho: free

    Other: $58

  • headlamp: $35
  • leatherman squirt: $23

    Total: $788.50

    base weight : ~10lbs
u/dialtoneplus · 1 pointr/stencils

There's a lot of ways to approach stenciling. I just started about 5 months ago and have a decent number of pieces completed, but i'm still learning each time I cut and paint.

I'll be happy to share a list of what I use, but just keep an open mind and remember that there's not just a single way to do this.

[] Materials []

  • I use #11 blades [Link]
  • I alternate between these two knives [[link]
    (https://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-Designer-Hobby-Craft-X3254/dp/B002A2QTGK/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1501185899&sr=8-22&keywords=xacto+11+knife)
    ] [link]
  • Painters tape [Link]
  • Spray Mount (Not spray adhesive - I just learned this last week) [link]
  • 110lb cardstock paper
  • Clear scotch tape

  • As for paint I just started using Montana, which is a nice-to-have but definitely not necessary. I did a lot of my first pieces with Rusto - in general just stay away from gloss, super gloss, high gloss (it can work, but in general you will have an easier time with flat/mattes.) I went through a lot of trial and error with paint - I bought some Krylon paint which was at a higher price point and it was absolute shit (very watery and runny no matter how long I shook my cans.)


    [] General Tips []

  • Making your stencils is definitely a part where people's methods differ (specifically in photoshop and breaking up your layers.) Just search YouTube and find a method that works with you.

  • For larger pieces I use rasterbator. Stich them together with clear scotch tape and cut as usual. I tape both sides of the seams/edges.

  • Take your time with your cuts
  • Make sure your workspace is clean
  • Let your layers dry
  • Make sure your stencils are laying flat
  • shake the shit outta your cans (especially with cheaper paint.) When you think you've shaken enough, shake for another 60 seconds.
  • Mind the distance between your cans and the canvas (or whatever medium you're painting on)
  • Take it easy on the paint, you don't need much to create a solid layer.


    Hope this is helpful, remember to share your pieces!
u/SPARTANsui · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

This is what I have. It works awesome. You will need a velcro backing plate and the pads to go with it.

So for example, my setup was the porter cable polisher, the Meguiar's 105 & 205 polishes, a 6in. velcro backing plate, orange pads used with the 105, and white pads used with the 205 polish.

I started with the orange pads and the 105 to "cut" the paint. Just to get all those deeps swirls out. This will leave micro swirls, which is why you have to follow up with the 205 and white pads. You could probably skip the 105 step all together and just use either the white pads or black pads. (that is if you don't have really bad swirls) I would probably try to black pads first as they would be the safest and less abrasive.

So here's how I would do it with your car if you just want to try and get minor swirls out. I would 2 bucket wash, dry, and then clay. I would then tape off all your trim (if you plan on doing the whole car) as getting polish stuck between trim or on trim is a PITA. I would just worry about trim that is close to paint. Prep work will take time, but you won't have to slow down when polishing each panel. So once your trim is taped off it's time to get to work. Decide which panel you want to start with. Apply 3-5 drops of 205 polish to the black pad, have some water (preferably distilled) in a spray bottle and mist the pad. Go over to the panel and stick the pad against the panel to spread out the polish. You should have a couple spots where there's 3-5 drops of polish on the panel now. Bring the polisher up to speed, (I usually do a middle speed) and start working the polish into the panel going back and forth in a sweeping motion. Once you have thoroughly gone over the panel, carefully turn off your polisher without lifting off. If you lift off you will get polish EVERYWHERE. Now wipe it dry with a soft microfiber towel. I purchased brand new microfiber towels (basically the softest ones too) from The Rag Company. You want to remove ALL polish residue from the panel as soon as possible. Do not move onto the next panel without doing this. This will also give you an opportunity to check your work. Use a bright light to see if you can spot anymore swirls. You shouldn't see any.

I am by no means a professional, I have only done this once on my own personal vehicle. I believe I got pretty good results. Take my advice with a grain of salt. I just watched Youtube videos to learn what I know. I hope this helps! Don't be too worried or nervous. It's pretty easy and was pretty fun. But I won't lie, because I went over my car twice, my arms were killing me by the end of the day. I could barely finish the last panel (it was on the side) because my arms just wanted to give out. It was hard work, but so so worth it!

It should also go without saying, but be sure to either do this in a garage or in complete spot. You want the paint to be cool and you don't want the polish to dry on the panel. Also you don't want to have any dust blow on your paint or settle. Basically you want your paint as clean as possible before you go to town with your polisher.

u/themellowmedia · 2 pointsr/watercooling

Absolutely. I'd recommend the following if you are going to be sleeving existing PSU cables:

Tool | Price | Description
:--------|:--------:|--------:
MFC Molex Extractor | $10.99 | This is the most important tool you'll need, don't cheap out here. This one from MainFrame Customs is the best I've used
Side Cutters | $5 | You'll want these to cut the sleeving. It works way better than scissors


Now those are the basic tools, if that's all you want to get away with then be very careful and take your time while extracting the pins. Otherwise you'll want the following to re-crimp the broken pins.

Tool | Price | Description
:--------|:--------:|--------:
Crimping Tool | $23 | Great quality crimping tool, works for all PC pin types (atx goes in the larger slot :) )
Stripper | $41 | Great stripper, makes it very easy to get consistent strips, ideal for crimping, however you could use regular stippers
ATX female pins | $0.30 for 5 | Replacement pins

If you end up needing to get these tools, one benefit is you can cut your cables to the lengths you need which will make it very clean for cable management. Lastly, if you are going to use paracord and are not re-crimping the pins, I would recommend this Paracord threader. It'll keep the pins from tearing the paracord and make sleeving a lot easier. If you are going with PET Teleios Sleeve, you wont need it, as PET expands enough to make it easy to sleeve over the connector.


u/therealjerseytom · 1 pointr/Cooking

> Knife sharpening. I've tried searching this sub for knife sharpening suggestions and while the most common suggestion is to pay someone to do it once or twice a year, I've read horror stories and I'd like to learn myself either with a sharpening stone or a system made to guarantee the angle. Any suggestions here?

Lot of options here. You can find places that will do knife sharpening. There's one near me that's just a small storefront but they do work for local restaurants and regular Joe walk-ins for a flat rate of $6 a blade.

However, it's really pretty easy to get into doing your own sharpening. Can find decent starter stones on Amazon, for example, as well as good online tutorials that'll give you the process. From there it's just hands-on time.

Doesn't matter if you're not perfect the first time you do it - can always go back and put a better edge on a knife later when you get better at it. Probably most important thing is to know how to hold and maintain an angle - conveniently you can come up with good rules of thumb using trig. For a typical western angle of 22.5 degrees per side, you need to hold the spine up off the stone 3/8" per inch of blade height. For a more typical Japanese angle of 15 degrees it's 1/4" per inch of blade height. Just have to take a look at what that is with a ruler, then you can put your thumb up against it and find where you need to "lock in" and hold it.

I enjoy doing it myself, picked it up pretty quickly over the summer, and I'd say my knives tend to have a better-than-new edge on them. 1-2 times per year seems sufficient, maybe 3 - really depends on type of steel and use.

u/wcfore01 · 1 pointr/minipainting

So I'll give you a link to a list that you may find useful for checking all the boxes on what you may need. I'll post my opinions below on some of the stuff I have found is most important. (I went through this process about 2-3 months ago)

http://www.reapermini.com/Thecraft/32

I LOVE this hobby knife Very important for removing mold lines, cutting off flash, etc. Very important to get one that starts and stays sharp

Primer is incredibly important. You want to make a suitable surface for your paint to adhere to. I would also look up some articles about how to prime. Contrary to popular belief you don't want the entire model to be the color of your prime when you are done! You want it to look almost speckled and have about 80% coverage.

Paint Here is a decent starter box of citadel paint, with a box and some 1/2 decent brushes. Obviously this is a bit pricey, but you get 45 paints plus some helpful extras

Brush Cleaner VITALLY important. Keeps paint out of the ferrule and helps your brushes stay conditioned and pointed

Brushes I just got a Winsor and Newton Series 7 #00, #1 and #2....WOW the difference between these and synthetic brushes is night and day. Painting tasks that seemed to take forever or require too much of a steady hand are MUCH easier now

Dull Cote Matte Spray Essential for providing a matte finish and protection to be able to actually use your minis. This product is excellent for that

Obviously there are many more items that are important to have that are described in more detail in that link I provided. But the ones above are the ones I would consider most essential

u/imonfiyar · 4 pointsr/Cooking

waterstones for sharpening and a honing rod for western knives (guessing that's what you have).

Something cheap but good for value like a King 1k/6k to get you going first.

Once you get better, you can always upgrade to nicer stones like Shapton, Naniwa, Suehiro, etc.

I use Japanese knives so I don't have a honing rod and can't recommend you one.

​

Gist of it

Soak stone 10 mins

Start 1k grit side, run each side 5 - 10 times (look up what a burr is)

Start 6k grit side, run each side 5 - 10 times (polishing)

optional - you can also strop it to make it sharper using newspaper, cardboard, leather

hone the knife (5-10 passes) end of every week after use

​

There are really good playlists like Korin or JKI but they can get pretty serious, detailed and sometimes overwhelming.

I like to watch Burrfection where it's more casual content.

u/plethoraofpinatas · 1 pointr/EDC
  1. Benchmade 771 - out of production, 154CM blade - aluminum handle w/ Axis lock

  2. Kenneth Cole wallet - very slim and usable for a front pocket wallet.

  3. Tissot PR-50 - also out of production but similar watches are available for the same price. Check for a "sapphire" crystal. It is much more scratch resistant than the "mineral" glass crystals out there.

  4. Leatherman Squirt P4 - a handy multi-tool with: blade/file/pliers/screwdrivers/bottle opener/reamer/etc.

  5. United Defense Pen - a solid and affordable aluminum "defense" pen. When paired with a Fisher Space Pen refill - it writes everywhere: upside down, in freezing conditions, under water, always moves smoothly, etc.

  6. Illuminati Titanium AAA light - because titanium is cool and 115 lumens is bright from a single "AAA" light. This one is using an Energizer lithium battery for extra run time (over an hour on high - way longer on lower settings). For comparison, a regular 2D Maglite is only about 50 lumen.

  7. Zippo lighter - it's a "Zippo". If you need one they are time honored and reliable.

  8. Titanium rings - 40% lighter than steel, just as strong, and 100% more unique.

  9. Titanium clips - Looks like they are out of the Ti McGizmo's.

  10. Custom engraved tag: $25.00 total, I had to have 5 tags made (to make the minimum) so I gave out a few gifts since I only wanted two (I added friends' numbers for their tags). I don't remember the name of the engraving company unfortunately. Some pet stores (Petco) have machines that do single engravings for "pet tags" that would work perfect for a keychain i.d. and only cost around $5.


    Edit: If anyone is curious, everything looks pretty much the same after three years except the Squirt's anodizing is a little chipped up. Black leather dye, Lexol leather conditioner, and polishing compound helps to maintain the shiny look. Also maybe don't put your Benchmade in the washer/dryer - that is hard on the bead blast finishing and also really aggravating when you realize it is not just a metal button from your jeans making the noise.
u/hot_n_stinky_dreams · 1 pointr/BudgetBlades

Yes, carbon usually has a much more significant edge stability. However, since you're not using it often, carbon represents quite a bit of maintenance (it will rust). Even with oil, if it's in long term storage, it tends to get small spots of rust that need to be polished off. If you use it frequently, rust usually isn't a huge issue. Long-term storage is where the rust really becomes a problem. Snow could present more issues with rust, but I haven't had to deal with that in my climate setting.

If you have a honing rod, that should fix a rolled edge better than a pull-through sharpener. But a knife is no knife at all without a properly sharpened edge.

Since it seems like you're not doing heavy woodwork...maybe a folder would be best for you.


For minimal maintenance, good edge retention, and as long as you're not doing heavy wood work, try the BRK Avispa or Zancudo (links go to Amazon). Alternatively the OKC RAT and RAT II are essentially the same knives but with different styling. I believe these are all in AUS-8 Stainless Steel and have pretty hard edges. The edge should last a while with no sharpening (use your honing rod, though). The Avispa and RAT 1 are both quite large--I think the blades are about 4 inches long. The Zancudo and RAT II have ~2.5 inch blades and are much better suited for every day carry.


Opinels are great for culinary applications, but I don't personally like them for woodworking. Great for spreading cheese, and cutting summer sausages though! I also don't entirely trust the locking mechanism. But they are super cool knives. The stainless loses its edge very quickly to rolling.

​

Do you mind me asking: what is your version of 'flashy'?

u/PhenomenalDouche · 7 pointsr/knifeclub

Expected but icky answer: Kershaw Skyline (two words: butter knife)

Good answer: any of a million or so inexpensive CRKT flippers with IKBS, like the odd-looking but fantastic Ikoma Carajas.

Best answer that I know of currently: save $14.89 more and buy a Kizer 3404, then thank me later.

Bonus option I've-never-tried-but-will-at-some-point: a Russian Kizlyar Supreme Biker Z

u/Youre_kind_of_a_dick · 1 pointr/iamverybadass

Lol, do you mean S&W? Been in the same boat myself, and those are decent knives. Dig the bigger handles, definitely more ergonomic if you have bigger hands. Higher grades of steel help, but if it's a daily, things are going to wear down regardless. Got a cheap Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener a while back that does a pretty good job of sharpening the tips when using the ceramic rod. Saw it suggested on a video for sharpening recurve blades, and it's been pretty slick. Otherwise, since my current main is more of a straight blade, have just been using a sharpening stone when rarely needed)

Been using this as my every day carry for a while now. Not as rugged, and handle could be a tad bigger, but it can get razor sharp and stay that way, doesn't corrode quickly, and once dull, sharpens super easily (Sandvik 14C28N steel, great for light to moderate usage without a ton of coarse cutting).

If I know I'm going to be cutting more abrasive things like rope, this is my backup. S30V steel doesn't hold a razor sharp edge as long (14C28N is designed to have maximized sharpness) but it's effective cutting edge lasts forever (less wear than 14C28N for abrasive cuts, but also a bit tougher to sharpen).

P.S. I promise I'm not a Kershaw rep, just found two that I've actually stuck with for a long time!

u/video_descriptionbot · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

SECTION | CONTENT
:--|:--
Title | Vaping Coil Winding Jig Tool
Description | Fasttech Vaping Coil Winding Jig Tool for Rebuildable Atomizers https://www.fasttech.com/p/1926001 stainless steel / 1.5mm + 2.0mm + 2.5mm + 3.0mm + 3.5mm sections SKU 1926001
Length | 0:01:17


SECTION | CONTENT
:--|:--
Title | UD Coil Jig V3 - Demonstration
Description | UD Coil Jig V3 http://www.vapetime.co.uk This is a quick demonstration of the Coil Jig V3 by Youde Technology. For more information please visit: http://www.vapetime.co.uk/ud-coil-jig-v3/ If you have any questions please do not hesitate to call, contact us or leave a comment. We are always happy to help :)
Length | 0:04:00


SECTION | CONTENT
:--|:--
Title | Quick and Effective coil build for RDA atomizers
Description | ::EDIT:: It's a good idea to check your resistance ( ohms ) BEFORE you attempt to glow and fiddle with your coils. The resistance will change as your coils get more even. So check before, then check again after. Thanks. Hey everyone! If i'm being 100% honest. I mostly shot this video for my brother who recently got into the world of rebuilding. He was really struggling with it. Rebuilding has become such second nature to me that I often forget how it feels to be building for the first time and that sense of frustration that sets in quickly. So hopefully some other people will find this video helpful. Rebuilding honestly just takes practice and patience. ANYONE can do a solid simple build that will produce both great flavor and large clouds ( if you want ) The build in this video came out to 0.3ohms, which will work great on a mech mod, or on a higher wattage regulated device like the Sigelei 150w or iStick 50w I used 24g Kanthal, 6 wraps around a 2.5mm screwdriver. Below I have links to most everything I used in this video. Including some "beginner friendly" RDA atomizers. Precision screw drivers http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435336275&sr=8-1&keywords=precision+screwdriver+set&pebp=1435336344707&perid=1M11EBNKQ3Z63A7B0VQ8 Wire Clippers http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435336368&sr=8-1&keywords=Wire+Clippers 24g Kanthal http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Lightning-Vapes-Kanthal-Resistance/dp/B00JWYIHLY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435336391&sr=8-1&keywords=Kanthal&pebp=1435336399204&perid=0Q2SHF5N87Q64YJT5F9E Organic Japanese Cotton http://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Organic-Cotton-Organic-unbleached-Largest/dp/B00P219C5Q Unfortunately the VapeKit has been discontinued. They are doing a V2 kit, but in the meantime check this one out http://www.coil-master.net/product/diy-kit Some good RDA's for new builders IMO Mutation X V4 http://www.vapordna.com/Project-Sub-Ohm-Designed-Mutation-X-V4-RDA-p/psmxv4.htm The Mako http://www.beyondvape.com/store/import-cat-c-1_2/beyond-vape-mako-rda-p-1927.html The IMP http://www.empiremods.com/product_p/youdimp.htm Thanks so much for watching everyone! hope this is helpful. Feel free to follow me on Instagram http://instagram.com/grimmgreen/ Twitter https://twitter.com/GrimmGreen Facebook https://www.facebook.com/GrimmGreen Also please remember that unless you make it so I can reply to you. I will be un-able to reply to your comments.
Length | 0:22:32






****

^(I am a bot, this is an auto-generated reply | )^Info ^| ^Feedback ^| ^(Reply STOP to opt out permanently)

u/Rocket_Puppy · 2 pointsr/EDC

What do you use the Skeletool most for?

If you use the knife on it constantly and daily, then yeah, get a good knife. If the stuff that you do cut makes you nervous with the Skeletool then definitely get a dedicated knife.

If you use the bit driver or pliers on the Skeletool the most then you probably don't need to carry a dedicated knife.

Give the Sage 5 a good look as well if you are considering the Para3. I'd also strongly recommend finding a Spyderco/Benchmade/Zero Tolerance dealer and fondling a bunch of knives before making a decision on which knife to buy.

If you have never carried a dedicated knife before it would be a good idea to buy a cheaper knife or two before spending $100+ on a knife.

Could try something like the Spyderco Byrd Cara Cara 2:
https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Cara2-Lightweight-black-PlainEdge/dp/B0049AYJP4/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1499523866&sr=1-1&keywords=Byrd+Cara+Cara2

The Ontario Rat I/II
https://www.amazon.com/Ontario-Knife-Sp-Black-Folding-7Inches/dp/B00BBPAOCW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499523684&sr=8-2&keywords=ontario+rat+2

https://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499523956&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ontario+rat+1&psc=1

Kershaw Cryo
https://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1555TI-SpeedSafe-Folding-Knife/dp/B0074FI28Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499523664&sr=8-1&keywords=kershaw+cryo

CRKT Squid
https://www.amazon.com/Columbia-River-Knife-Tool-Folding/dp/B00TFY39EQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499524020&sr=1-1&keywords=crkt+squid

Try some under $30 knives, pick one that looks like something you would like to carry, and pick something that is dang near the polar opposite. It will let you know what you like in a knife much cheaper. Differences in blade size, blade shape, handle shape and how they are used might change your opinion on what you think you need in a knife after using a dedicated knife for awhile. After that you can make a truly informed decision on a high-end knife.

u/incith · 2 pointsr/sharpening

Do you know what they currently have at all?

A really coarse stone with another side for finishing on would be this - useful for fixing chipped blades and overall getting a very sharp edge. It's diamond so it does not need maintained. It's quite heavy so it can be set down on something and used anywhere with a splash of water, or even without water. But better with..sorry it exceeds your budget a bit. It was 7$ cheaper a few months ago: Sk11-sided Diamond Whetstone # 150 / # 600 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EIE8LC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K765Ab44NE259


A good at home stone in your price range would be this one, you have to soak it in water for 5-20min before using (each time, until it stops bubbling in the water) but it's a great stone that is widely used: KING KW65 1000/6000 Grit Combination Whetstone with Plastic Base https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DT1X9O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_n565AbSFCV7EG

Anything 'bearmoo' or 'sharp pebble' or anything looking like those ones honestly is not going to be enjoyable or comparable in quality to the above.

Another great stone worth mentioning: Shapton Ha No Kuromaku Ceramic Whetstone Medium Grit #1000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TPFT0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_o-65AbB1PMZ8B

If they already have some bench stones, maybe they can use a holder - super useful!: POWERTEC 71013 Sharpening Stone Holder, 5-1/2-Inch to 9-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NFB2MTI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_h.65AbP2HAJ5W

u/eltonnovs · 3 pointsr/knives

If you're spending $100, most well known brands will be sharp and strong. The rest depends on taste and preference. But a few options

  • Benchmade mini griptilian, the axis lock is bomb proof. 154cm (the steel) is pretty good for that price range.

  • Cold Steel mini recon
    Triad lock is really tough, CTS-XHP is a great steel. Cold Steel knives always come razor sharp, and are known for being indestructible.

  • Cold Steel rajah III, BD1, bit softer steel but still a good blade.

  • Ontario rat 1, a lot cheaper but hey, why not buy 2? Softer steel, but easy to sharpen. Tough knife on a budget.

  • Kershaw Blur Has assisted opening, decent steel. But your paying more because of the opening mechanism

  • Kershaw scallion. All metal knife, assisted opening. 420HC is pretty tough.

  • Gerber 06 fast Assisted opening. I'm not the biggest fan of 7cr17mov. The knife is strong though.


    And most likely every person reading this will have another knife to recommend. It's a lot about personal preference. What look do you like, what lock do you like.

    edit; Thanks kind stranger for the gold!
u/7thton · 2 pointsr/knives

For day to day stuff, I think a folding knife is more than enough. Multitools are heavy and I wouldn't want to have to lug it around all day on my belt or in my pocket.

As far as recommendations go, you can buy a very nice folding knife for under 50. A lot of people here are going to recommend Spyderco knives, but keep in mind that they are much bigger than other folders in terms of height. (To be more clear, they are not heavier than other knives or necessarily have a longer or thicker blade or handle, but the blades are very wide and that translates to it taking much more room in your pocket.)

I would reccomend a Buck Nobleman. It is nothing fancy, but it has a nice wide blade, comes sharp, has a sturdy liner lock, and a good clip. You can remove the clip is you want. In my opinion, it is the best knife you can buy for 20 bucks.

I can also recommend the Kershaw Leek (this is an assisted opening knife, so research whether or not that is something you'd like) and the Kershaw Skyline.

If you want to spend a little more on a knife that will likely last you forever, from a company that has great customer service, I can recommend a Benchmade Mini-Griptilian.

u/Silverlight42 · 5 pointsr/lifehacks

there's some good stuff in there.


I'd like to add a couple that aren't so well known.

You can actually heat up the plastic water bottles it mentions right on your campfire coals... it's not going to melt, surprisingly.

video


also for clothing, I like they mentioned wool -- really great even if it gets wet... but they didn't mention layers. This is important. You don't want to sweat when it's cold out, so if you're active you gotta shed some layers.


also use your spare grocery bags from home to wrap everything up in, especially clothes... just in case things get wet.


oh and silicone spray is great for water repellent, be it your jacket, boots or tent. Don't buy the "special water repellent stuff", it's just silicone spray. You'll save a couple bucks.


As far as hatchets/knives... you don't need anything big. You might think you do but you really don't. I would recommend a good brand like Benchmade or Kershaw. A regular pocket knife like that is gonna do all you need -- just don't use it as a prybar please.



oh and hobo stoves are pretty cool.

so is a rocket stove -- though the one here is kinda elaborate -- you can dig a hole in the ground and accomplish the same thing you just need the basic shape, airflow. really low fuel and insane concentrated heat from them.


oh and a hoopy frood always knows where his towel's at.

u/used2bgood · 2 pointsr/random_acts_of_lego

I have over 500 sets, so my storage gets a little pricey, but I used a combination of five things:

  • Akro parts bins for food items, minifig parts, and other small, uncommon pieces.

  • Plano tackle boxes for smaller pieces like 1x3 or 1x2 bricks, that I have in medium quantity, but in all different colors (I sort by color first, then piece type/size)

  • Stack-on boxes because they're large, stackable, dividable, and CHEAP.

    and lastly,

  • Ikea SAMLA bins for bigger bricks (2x8's and such), plates, odd pieces, and wheels. They're clear, stackable, and come with lids.

    Also crucial to my organization is a label maker, and they have good cheap ones at Costco. You could always just print out pictures of the bricks or a box inventory and use packing tape to seal it on, but I like the label maker look.

    My Lego room looks something like this, although nowhere near as many bricks.

    My nephew, who only has about 30 sets, uses small Tupperware type containers to sort the pieces, and keeps them in drawers like this, with a plywood table top bolted through the tops of each cabinet so that he can build and move the table around (although his is four cabinets bolted in a square).

    We also found some cool ideas here, but went with something else that worked better for our house/lifestyle. :)



u/DesolationRobot · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

The easy but expensive way is to use a bracket like this. Expensive not only because you have to buy one for each joint, but it also doubles the number of fasteners you need. And since you're being wise and using stainless steel fasteners only on your cedar fence, that cost adds up.

Cheaper would be to drill pocket holes into the end of each rail. Put the pocket holes in the face side that will be covered up by the pickets. This does two things: the pocket screw is angled into the meat of the post rather than the side and here you can get away with using cheaper coated screws because they'll be somewhat protected by the picket and if they do bleed, the picket will be in front anyway. Plus it's a much cleaner look.

I like the Kreg K3 for basic homeowner tasks. It's especially great for this because it's easy to move it to the long rails. Pair it with a cheap face clamp and you're set. Throw a little polyurethane construction adhesive in the joint (mostly to keep the water out).

This is how I built my fence. 3 years later and the rails are as tight as ever. I have every confidence that they'll make it to 15 years just fine. Or, rather, if something breaks on this fence, it won't be the rails.

u/MoonManFour2Zero · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

Looks like a solid start to me! I would recommend not fully assembling your models before you paint them, some places can be hard to reach when fully assembled.

  1. The army painter range of brushes is a solid starting point, I think they have a starter pack with a few essential brushes. Get a tub of brush cleaner and clean your brushes throughout your time painting, I like to clean them when I change colors. This will keep in good condition and extend their life!

  2. I like the GW plastic glue, it melts the pieces together for a strong connection! Super glue is also good and if you need to change a model up you can freeze them and they will snap apart.

  3. I like the GW brand primers, though they are expensive! I've used army painter before and had mixed results, some good some terrible.

  4. I do not have any experience with sealers.

    Necessary Hobby Items

u/2capp · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Might be worth getting a solder wick for when you inevitably screw up. Solder vacuum isn't a terrible idea either. I have both, I use them for different things. A third hand is also useful. I find myself using the glass more than the arms but it's all useful. If the iron you buy doesn't come with one a brass ball is great for keeping your tip clean without cooling it off like a sponge will. Micro-cutter is useful, not sure if angled or straight is better, up to you I guess. Last but not least a pair of angled tweezers. You can get those anywhere.

These are all the things I have within arm's reach when I'm doing a project. Have fun!

u/Reachmonkey · 2 pointsr/knives

okay, so... as far as cheap sharpening goes, stay away from pull thru sharpeners they give a mediocre edge and take years off the steel.
a cheap-ish way is to get a stone but learning to free hand sharpen is a pain and can take years to truly get the hang of. also chosing grits and a good stone that wont crumble and scratch the shit out of your knife.

you can get a lansky for 35-40$

or you can get a spyderco sharpmaker for 50-60$

i use one of these for rough stuff, really bad edges and reprofiling. i would recommend this because if you arent going to be sharpening often and dont need a razor edge itll be fine.

a good strop can get expensive but honestly you can just pick one for 15-20$ and some buffing compound for 3-10$

you can also use one of these to get a mirror edge, closer to finishing, freehand sharpening again has a larger learning curve, practice on a crappy knife. seriously. you will fuck up at first. you should see my first knife, gross...

if you decide in the freedom of freehand sharpening, check out atomedges guide in the sidebar. pretty helpful.

u/BigSerene · 1 pointr/EDC

I don't personally own one, but I've often seen the Kershaw Leek recommended as a good budget EDC knife.

If you're getting a separate knife anyway, you might choose a Leatherman without a knife, like the Style PS, so that you can take it with you when you travel for summers/breaks.

Other items to consider:

  1. Bandanas: super useful to wipe sweat, blow your nose, clean something up, etc. You can get some cheap ones on Amazon and they weigh nothing, so they're easy to carry around.

  2. Water bottle: I like the Smart Water water bottles, so I bought one in a vending machine and just keep refilling it from water fountains.

  3. Power bank: if it's not convenient to go back to your dorm in between classes/meals, you might want to get a power bank to recharge your phone/tablet/laptop. You can just bring the charging cable, but you may not always have access to a plug.

  4. Flashlight: There's a long list of suggestions in the Frequently Recommended Gear list on the right. Flashlights are just randomly useful a lot.
u/pyromaster55 · 7 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Most people will suggest skipping GW for paint and hobby tools to save money. I suggest hitting amazon for a pair of flush cutters, set of needle files, and pack of testors model cement. Krylon camo black spray paint is a fine substitute for expensive primers. Vallejo paints are a top reccomended brand, and there is a conversion chart to convert old and new gw colors to vallejo colors.

A set of just standard tac marines is a great place to start, you'll use them for sure and theres plenty there to work on technique, hit up the warhammer youtube channel, as they have painting tutorials that are really great, watch as many as possible as each has something you can use even if they aren't painting space marine models.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FZPDG1K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1459352340&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=flush+cutter&dpPl=1&dpID=414t7uLh8KL&ref=plSrch


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013E68SU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(Starting out you should be fine with just a zero, but if you really have moneh burnig a hole in your pocket a 1 and 00 would also come in handy eventually. Never leave your brush sitting in your water cup, don't let paint dry in your brush, and keep paint out of the metal part.)


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013D53CS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1459352997&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=testors+model+glue&dpPl=1&dpID=51QQU8wrc-L&ref=plSrch


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NPUKYS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1459352697&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=needle+file+set+for+metal&dpPl=1&dpID=412lincr%2B5L&ref=plSrch

Add an xacto and tube of superglue from your local superstore and you have all the tools needed to crank out perfectly acceptable models. I'll admit the brush is a bit overkill, but you're saving so much money on the rest of the tools, and a good brush makes the experience much more enjoyable, I suggest splurging there. Also don't bee fooled into buying a basing kit, regular old sand does just fine,

u/gswoff · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing


Here’s a straightforward shopping list and beginners guide. This will knock out most if not all of your swirl marks.

Shopping List:

Machine Polisher - PORTER-CABLE Variable Speed Polisher, 6-Inch (7424XP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l7SADbKPP1Q6Q

Backing Pad - Astro 4607 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T7SADbZ187WK1

Buffing Pads - Chemical Guys HEX_3KIT_5 5.5" Buffing Pad Sampler Kit (4 Items), 16. Fluid_Ounces, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J588UNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d9SADb8WF470V

Compound - Meguiar's G17220 Ultimate Compound, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5HCZ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M9SADb0ADEMZJ

Finishing Polish - Meguiar's M20532 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish, 32 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O7PNXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i-SADbWXADMQT

Wax - Your preference


Here’s the guide:

1 – Tool Prep

Set aside the dual-action polisher, backing pad, and foam pads. Remove the included backing plate that’s already attached to the Porter Cable polisher, use the included wrench. Re-attached using the Astro pad, secure tightly.

2 – Wash

Wash your car by hand, preferably using the two-bucket method. Afterward, move the car into your garage or shaded area. You’ll want to be out of direct sunlight, keeping the paint as cool as possible.

3 – Clay Bar

Clay bar the entire car. Make sure to wipe down the finish afterward, keeping it as clean as possible.

4 – Compound Buffing

Grab your machine polisher, the Ultimate Compound, and the orange pad. Attach the pad to the polisher using the velcro backing, make sure it’s centered. Prime the pad by dabbing 8-10 dime-sized amounts across the surface. Start working one section at a time, around 2 x 2 feet. Before you turn on the polisher, press the pad against the paint. Compound polish should be soaked within the pad, along with the paint. Press the pad against the surface, set to speed setting 2-3, and begin spreading the compound around in quick passes. Then, turn it up to 5-6 and let the fun begin. Use overlapping, slow passes. Once you’re done, wide the area clean with a microfiber towel.

5 – Inspection

Check out your results of the first section. Go over the area again if most of the swirl marks aren’t gone. If the swirls are gone, but a light haze is present, don’t worry. The finishing polish will take care of it.

6 – Polish Buffing

Use the M205 Finishing Polish with the white pad. Follow the same steps from before. Prime the pad and rub it against the paint before turning on the polisher. Use a max speed of 3-4 with medium pressure. The Finishing Polish will take care of the rest of the haze and micro scratches. Once you’re finished with the first section, wipe clean.

7 – Inspection

Again, check out the results of the M205 Finishing Polish. It’s doubtful you’ll need more than one application, but double-check all the same. If it’s looking great, move on and finish the rest of your car.

8 – Wax

Your paint is looking great. The swirl marks are gone, leaving a bright clean finish. Apply the wax using the black foam pad. Use very light pressure, letting the pad float along with the paint. You’re just coating your car’s finish, that’s all. Wipe clean with a microfiber towel.

u/ohwowgee · 1 pointr/Multicopter

True. I meant the whole fraud but as a general statement, not directed towards you, or what you have mentioned.

A lot of these companies aren't bad to deal with if you're honest. And have good luck.

Didn't actually know they were glass reinforced, which makes total sense that they are. My limit to experience with drones is some little cheapies. I'd really like to get into it, just seems expensive (yet I've spent around $200 in Wera screwdrivers this year).

EDIT: Also, I highly recommend these little buggers for soft, fine wire. They will instantaneously deform on use of anything heavy, but it's an inexpensive mistake. Good, consistent build quality (on the whole 3 I've seen), good feel in the hand. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K

u/HilariousMax · 10 pointsr/knives
  • ~$7-8 Sanrenmu 7010/710 - You can find these at Gearbest for cheap as hell when they have sales but they're absolutely $30 worth of knife
  • ~$10-20 Opinel no.6-12 - Depends on blade size/steel/handle wood. #6 is under 3in blade if that kind of thing matters.
  • ~$20 CRKT Drifter
  • ~$20 Spyderco Byrd Cara Cara2
  • ~$20-25 Ontario Rat II or Rat I
  • ~$30 Victorinox Cadet Alox
  • ~$30 Kershaw Cryo
  • ~$35 CRKT Ripple
  • ~$35 Spyderco Persistence
  • ~$40 Kershaw Skyline - Often on sale in the ~$30 range
  • ~$40 Kershaw Leek - Same sales as with the Skyline \^^

    Honorable Mention: Case knives. Traditional lockbacks. Hard as nails and pretty to boot. True pocket knives. Your grandfather (possibly great grandfather) had one. Good stuff the lot of them. $25-50 will get you a legacy knife that you can carry and use and then pass to your kid.

    You don't need to spend $200 to get a quality, durable, reliable knife. I've owned all of these knives at one time or another and loved every one of them. Sure they needed sharpening more often and sometimes something a little more drastic (Sanrenmus are often cheaper to replace than fix) but the value is insane. Plus, lets face facts; we're much more likely to break out our Cadet when we get box duty than our Sebenza.

    Knife enthusiasts (brothers) if there's a weighed and measured cheapo that I forgot, let me know.
u/Woltz_Sandage · 6 pointsr/Bushcraft

So for shelter, I'd suggest this tarp. I also suggest checking out the forum that the tarp is from (www.bushcraftusa.com) because it's a forum all about bushcraft but has sub forums in ultralight and backpacking. The tarp is https://bushcraftoutfitters.com/coyote-tarp-10x10/ which is priced at $67. The reason I suggest this is because this tarp specifically, there's lots of way's to set it up. Check out this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RxtHJm51NPY&t=


So for cooking, it's pretty simple. This video will show you what most bushcrafters use and the links that follow are the two items. I use it myself and in fact have two sets because of how much I enjoy it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00gwQ4z_nQQ&t and the following links for the items. https://www.walmart.com/search/?query=Ozark%20Trail%2018-Ounce%20Stainless%20Steel%20Cup
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Stanley-Adventure-Camp-Cook-Set/16784406
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ozark-Trail-9-5-Round-Frying-Pan/49332895


Hammocks are over rated, sleeping pads are a mess to figure out, get a cot. In fact, get this cot. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Outdoor-Super-Ultralight-Portable-Folding-Aluminium-alloy-Cot-Camping-Tent-Bed/112355265955?hash=item1a28e54da3:g:-PUAAOSwTM5Y365i:rk:2:pf:0


And now you need a knife, saw, and hatchet right? Well let's tackle all three.
https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Stainless-4-1-Inch-Military/dp/B004ZAIXSC?ref_=w_bl_hsx_s_sp_web_6501052011
https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-396-LAP-Laplander-Folding-Inch/dp/B0001IX7OW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540606867&sr=8-1&keywords=Bacho+Laplander
https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-X7-Hatchet-Inch-378501-1002/dp/B0002YTO7E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540607032&sr=8-2&keywords=Fiskars+X7+Hatchet+14+Inch%2C+378501-1002
And as a added bonus here's a fire steel.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-x-2-5-Drilled-Ferrocerium-Ferro-Rod-Steel-Flint-Fire-Starter-w-Lanyard-Hole/131485475489?hash=item1e9d2522a1:rk:4:pf:0


And finally to end it all, we have a sleeping bag. This one is well known in the world. Kelty Cosmic 20 Degree. It's a dry down bag which means it's made of down that can handle some moisture but still keep you warm. It's rated for 20 degree's. I'll post the same bag as well but is rated for 0 degrees'. It'll be more expensive but it'll let you stay warm during the winter.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kelty-Cosmic-20-Sleeping-Bag-20-Degree-Down/253894865275?epid=1152349824&hash=item3b1d50317b:m:mFpUvLXnvtZZETXdugDHwvw:rk:2:pf:0

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kelty-Cosmic-0-Sleeping-Bag-0-Degree-Down/253375355468?epid=28012067594&hash=item3afe591a4c:m:mCrEnOYV72CJ257e08pGR4Q:rk:2:pf:0


Check the sizes of the sleeping bag before you buy.


Also a pack, this one works as two in one. Really nice for a 60L https://outdoorvitals.com/products/rhyolite-60l-lightweight-internal-frame-backpack1
________________________________________

If you do plan on doing any winter camping, I'd edit a few things. One of them is I'd get the 0 Degree sleeping bag posted. Instead of the tarp I'd get this pup tent. https://www.ebay.com/itm/USGI-Military-Issue-2-Man-Canvas-PUP-TENT-w-Poles-Stakes-Complete-VGC/392111853275?hash=item5b4bb00edb:g:JEQAAOSw~jJarA5E:rk:1:pf:0 Which comes with poles and stakes. I normally toss the poles and get some branches outside. I get four branches and make a bipod that I tie off on either end. That gives me more room inside the tent and less weight I have to carry on my person.


I'd still get the cot but I'd also include Thermarest Z-Lite sleeping pad to put on top of it https://www.ebay.com/itm/Therm-a-Rest-Z-Lite-Sol-Ultralight-Foam-Backpacking-Mattress/132801349129?epid=1900010560&hash=item1eeb93c609:rk:1:pf:0 as well as one of those super heavy duty emergency blankets. It's a reflective blanket but it's also the same thickness as some of those heat reflectors you use for a car windshield. Not those flimsy things you see "survivalists" use. Those placed on the cot, with that zero degree bag, and that shelter works amazingly. Just don't throw a heavy blanket on the sleeping bag and don't wear a lot of clothes in it either. That'll make everything for naught.
______________________________________
So with everything listed, the pack, cooking stuff, tools, cot, sleeping bag, and either the canvas shelter or tap, you'd be looking at around $560 assuming you got the 0 Degree Sleeping Bag instead of the 20 Degree. Which you really should. A 0 Degree is much better in my case.


Also if you do get a down sleeping bag, NEVER STORE IT IN THE COMPRESSED STATE!!! Always store it someplace with it out of it's bag. If you keep it compressed 24/7 until you use it, you'll destroy the down.

u/Busboy80 · 4 pointsr/PrintedMinis
  1. I use auto generated supports, but I use Chitubox for my slicing software

  2. I think there is a google spreadsheet running around here that had good setting for the different resins. I’m on mobile so I can’t find it.

    Edit: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1crvzMnt_8NJXAsABinoIhcOjE8l3h7s0L82Zlh1vkL8/htmlview?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app#gid=0

  3. People will tell you both. I prefer to take them off before it cures because it’s more malleable and doesn’t “shoot off” when I clip off the supports. It also clears the way so that the mini itself can get into the sunlight and be cured. But I’m sure there are people out there that will tell you to remove them after curing. Either way I fine I believe.

  4. It’s also better to angle your minis when printing. 45 degrees on its back, so that the front of the minis has less supports (or none). Also whenever I print flat I had more failures for some reason.

  5. Have fun! I love mine!

    Also to remove supports buy one of these and use the flat side towards the mini itself:

    Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
u/Chocu1a · 1 pointr/chefknives

That is not a terrible starter, but you can find a better quality King comb stone.
https://www.amazon.com/KING-KW65-Combination-Whetstone-Plastic/dp/B001DT1X9O/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=whetstone+knife+sharpener+king&qid=1551396328&s=gateway&sr=8-5.

A Shapton 1500 can be had for around $40usd, & will produce a very fine edge & will not dish as quickly. I have sharpened half a dozen knives and there is no visible dishing. Plus it is a splash & go, no soaking needed.
https://www.amazon.com/Whetstone-Sharpening-Shapton-Ceramic-KUROMAKU/dp/B001TPJARE/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=shapton+1500&qid=1551396805&s=gateway&sr=8-1

The thing with that Pebble is the 1000 grit side will dish pretty easily and fast. We have one at work. One of my cooks bought it. It will produce a nice edge, and the 6000 side will polish pretty nicely. The base is actually pretty nice.

u/backlikeclap · 1 pointr/bikepacking

I like these wet wipes a lot. They get very high marks for biodegrading/composting quickly and they're actually flushable unlike many brands of wipes.

I wouldn't overthink your first aid kit too much. Bring along some cloth medical tape, a bandanna, and some NSAIDs and you'll have enough of a kit to deal with injuries at least until you can get real medical help. If you are blister-prone one or two pieces of this paper will be plenty for your trip.

I'm not sure on the legality of this in the UK but I would also consider a small folding knife a good addition to your first aid kit.

I like to bring along a pair of sandals or something similar for camp shoes. It REALLY hurts wearing the same shoes all day.

You might also want to buy a small hand torch if you plan to make camp after dark. This is the one I just picked up.

A food bag like this would be good for snacks - I would just stuff it in the webbing above your seat pack.

Sorry for all the amazon links. Your setup looks great. Beautiful bike!

u/tortugaborracho · 1 pointr/CampingGear

I registered for a bunch of gear when I got married, and it was a fantastic decision.

Where are you planning to register?

There are lots of decent items on Amazon, but there's a whole lotta crap on there, too. I got this little coffee filter from someone off our registry and it's probably in the top 5 pieces of gear I most value.

You may want to try to pick stuff that can double up, like a backpacking chair like this if you're not real concerned about weight. I got one similar, and while I haven't actually taken it backpacking, it stays in my truck and has come quite in handy.

Second for a good knife. I'm a big fan of any Columbia River Knife and Tool blades. My EDC is this guy but there are a lot of CRKT options on there.

Also, a small folding saw like this one is worth a little extra weight in my opinion. I have this same one and use it both when working on my property or out on the trail. I even carry it with me when I'm canoeing because it's just so dang handy.

Stuff like Permethrin spray, or seam sealer is also a good idea. It's cheap, which means folks will buy it for ya, and it's usable no matter what other gear you end up with.

u/turkeypants · 3 pointsr/chineseknives

Your intended type, volume, and roughness of use, and your sharpening willingness and skills will play a role in what knife and steel you get, though the cheaper you go, you lose some options. Do you want a folding knife or would you consider a fixed blade? Do you know how long a blade you might like? I think about 3.5" is basically "full" size in folding knives, with 3.0" being medium and particularly EDC-friendly, while smaller than that gets into mini territory. Lots of options in all sizes, plus big bigger ones. Are you a drop point guy? A reverse tanto blade shape guy? Spear point? Clip point? And do you prefer a liner lock, frame lock, axis lock, other lock? Do you prefer to open via thumb stud, front flipper, rear flipper, assisted open? Do you want plastic, rubber, G10, CF, metal, or something else on the handle? Do you want clip options for left carry, right carry, tip up, or tip down? Do you care if it's heavier? Do you need ultralight? Average weight?

Just searching Amazon for Ganzo (or Sanrenmu) will give you a bevy of cheap options, many of which look suspiciously familiar.

If you've got an extra four bucks and change and would prefer something American made and smaller, you can get the knife community's go-to recommendation for a great deal on a reliable smallish-midsize workhorse, the Ontario Rat 2. Get a ruler and imagine what you'd think of a 7 inch knife with a 4 inch handle an a 3 inch blade. Watch some review videos to get a better idea of size. A nice bonus is four-way reversible pocket clip for your choice of left/right and tip-up/tip-down carry. This cheaper version is in AUS-8 steel, which is easier to sharpen but holds an edge less well than the more expensive and harder to sharpen D2 version, which gets up closer to $40.. And at that price you could bump up to the larger Rat 1 in D2 if you wanted to for a buck or two more, though we're trying to hit $20 here. That one's got a 3.625" blade for 8.625" overall.

Anyway if you can answer some of the questions in the first paragraph, it will help people narrow things down for you and give you better recommendations. What would your ideal knife have? Fill in the blanks on fixed/folding, blade length, blade shape, handle material, open type, lock type, pocket clip preferences, and anything else like color, weight, etc.

And check out /r/Ganzo_Knives and /r/BudgetBlades for additional ideas.

u/mjh215 · 1 pointr/Tools

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I noticed a glaring omission from your coffers.

Lineman's pliers, I'd recommend these Channellock's, or if you have a few dollars more their Code Blue line. They also have models with fishtape pullers if you need them.

Other things you could probably use are a good pair of wire nips. You won't find a better value than these Hakkos, A non-marring hammer/deadblow hammer is quite handy to have around. A pair of needlenose pliers. A variety of precision screwdrivers or an encompassing bit set, I like this Tekton Everybit set (confession, mine was a gift from Tekton rather recently but it is still an honest opinion)..

And where are your safety glasses, hmm?

BTW That is a nice selection of tools, this isn't really criticism, just trying to think of things you might find useful that you don't already have...

u/voraidicon · 3 pointsr/knives

The SOG Flash 1 is spring assisted. It is a kickass blade and extremely lightweight. Around $35.


Then there is the Benchmade Emissary 470. Just a brilliant, brilliant blade. Practically sexy. $160-ish though, so I'll never have one in my pocket.



I just did a huge amount of research and decided against the spring assist. I like the super fast deployment, a lot; however, I found that many knives deploy just as fast because they are made so damn well. I just picked up the Kershaw Skyline 1760 for $35 and it is awesome. Spring assists have more parts to break, and more parts mean higher manufacturing costs.


Notable mention, the Kershaw Chill for about $16 most places.


Sorry for the amazon links, they are just easy to find. Also, I am new to this game so wait for some constructive criticism from more experienced users about my recommendations. And finally check some youtube reviews, I trust nutnfancy's reviews all day.

u/SeiJai · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

So ideally you go to a local hobby store and look at what models they have, then pick one you like and within your price range. You can start off with 1/144 scale HGs (High Scale), but I am a firm believer that if you can follow instructions, you can start at any scale and any grade. I am a sucker for kits with cool box arts (like the MG Shin Musha). Get a pair of side cutters to help with [piece from tree removal] (http://www.ghostofzeon.com/diy/assembly/removingparts.html). Obviously, shop around to get a good price. There are a wealth of useful links and threads on right hand column under "Current Events" (not sure why it is under current events...) Other model kits include [Zoids] (https://www.amazon.com/Zoids-Japanese-Kotobukiya-Model-RZ041/dp/B003UTUEVI/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1481057397&sr=1-1&keywords=zoids), Evangelion, and even [Batman] (https://www.amazon.com/SpruKits-DC-Comics-Batman-Arkham/dp/B00L5KKUR2/ref=sr_1_3?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1481057500&sr=1-3&keywords=batman+model). There are also like tanks and planes and battleships...

u/SJToIA · 5 pointsr/knifeclub

The Ontario RAT1 might be a good choice for your first blade. It's an incredibly good knife for the price. Check out the reviews. I highly recommend it, it's a great value:
http://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418727072&sr=8-1&keywords=rat1
If you want something with a cord/strap cutter feature, you might like the SOG Trident:
http://www.amazon.com/SOG-Specialty-Knives-TF22-CP-3-15-Inch/dp/B004WN59KW/ref=sr_1_44?s=hunting-fishing&ie=UTF8&qid=1418726833&sr=1-44&keywords=SOG+Knives
Kershaw is another brand you might like, there are many great models in your price range. There are other good choices out there as well. Check out the sidebar for the Knife Recommendation Guide

u/spinwizard69 · 1 pointr/arduino


>I think the big question when it comes to component organization is portable or not? If portable there are some good (and cheap!) options like card binders and tackle boxes, which other people have suggested.

Portable is a big factor when considering how you will store stuff. I wouldn't dismiss it as an issue but I tend to see storage density as a bigger factor. It might not look that way when you are first starting out but as you collect more stuff space usage has to be managed.

>I'm currently getting my bench set up where I'll be doing most of my electronics and I'm finding it a bit trickier to do without spending a bunch. I'll probably get drawer organizers with as many drawers as possible for components like resistors, caps, and inductors.

Actually for resistors, diodes and LEDs I'd argue against that type of storage. The problem is this if you want to keep them organized you need individual bins per size or part number. If you don't things get mixed up and degrade from there. Even if you only stock the most common sizes of resistors you will end up with dozens of parts to organize. That leads to buying many drawer assemblies and using up a lot of space for a few parts. That doesn't mean you won't need the storage for other things though. Capacitors and inductors, especially in their more bulky variants would go well in such storage.

>I think first-order retrievability is a worthy consideration when it comes to tools, including dev boards.

if you don't need portability having tools directly accessible on the work bench can be a huge advantage. There is good reason woodworkers from the 1800's had huge walls of tools with the common tools right near their work benches.

The only thing that is different here is that makers often leave their benches for maker spaces or field work on their projects. That is when a portable tool box becomes so handy. These days though it doesn't even need to be a tool "box", it can just as well be a bag or even a tool backpack.

>At work I have plastic bins in all kinds of sizes and those work well. They offer good compartmentalization and organization but because they're open and have the shorter front they're easy to look into and access, or move to a bench, etc.

They are expensive though even at Wall Mart in the plastic variants. Plus you need a wall rack or shelving unit to store them. Stacking the plastic variants up one on top of the other is a pure trouble, believe me I've tried this with smaller units and it can lead to swearing and vulgarity when you want to take the bottom bin to the bench while avoiding spilling the rest. If you go with the cardboard ones or even the plastic ones you really need to build a shelving unit optimized for the size of the bins you buy. They are a good idea though, we have used the cardboard variants for stuff not used frequently at work.

u/Ranelpia · 1 pointr/knives

I do leathercrafting, and I'd like to buy myself some sharpening stones as a sort of birthday present to myself. I've asked in the leatherworking sub, and gotten varied suggestions, so I'm broadening my search.

  • One person suggested water stones - ceramic water stones, specifically. They did suggest some of the Chosera stones (about which I got easily confused since there are multiple 'professional' and 'chosera' named stones, and the original Chosera changed their name), as well as the Shapton Kuromaku line, which I felt would be easier to purchase (cheaper, still highly recommended, and none of that confusion between stones). I could get a 1000 grit for $55 CAD, and if I wanted, a 5000 for $68 (I'm still on the fence if I want to go beyond 1000 followed by a strop right now). Best of all, I just have to spritz these with water before sharpening.

  • Another user cautioned me against water stones, citing the speed at which they wear as a reason not to go with them. He prefers using oilstones, and suggested a coarse/fine Norton India combination and a soft Arkansas. I can get the Arkansas for about $35 (and a hard Arkansas for a couple dollars more), but the Norton seems to be in limited availability up here in Canada, and I can't seem to find an 8" stone for less than $50 after shipping. The price point of oilstones is very attractive to me, but the thought of cleaning up honing or mineral oil after sharpening just feels messy in comparison to water stones that I don't even need to soak.

  • Thirdly, I could go with diamond stones. Now, for the most part while these are ideal, the price is much less so. I found a Japanese brand of stone - SK-11 - they normally produces beauty products. I can get a 150/600 combination and a 400/1000 combination stone, for about $50 each. Since most of the diamond stone is dominated by DMT and Atoma, however, I have no idea how reliable SK-11 is as a brand.

    TL;DR I've never sharpened a blade before, I want something to start with, but don't want to spend big money upgrading if I get really into it. I prefer ease of use and convenience, and while I want to sharpen leather knives, I'd like to be able to sharpen other tools like woodworking blades/chisels and kitchen knives as well.

    EDIT: I don't know why some of my links aren't working, it happens sometimes and I have no idea what I'm doing wrong.
u/anotherjunkie · 1 pointr/Woodcarving

Sure thing! A high-carbon blade would be good to sharpen, but will dull easily and quickly. A stainless steel/HSS blade is incredibly difficult to sharpen, but will hold and edge for a bit longer.

I didn't get to look at your exact examples because I'm on mobile.

Again, I don't know anything about what's available in Turkey, but an X-Acto knife (craft knife, hobby knife, etc) has extremely sharp, cheap, replaceable blades that are amazing for beginner carving. I know you were looking for an all-in-one, but I just recommend this because I think you'd have a better experience, and here in the US you can get an x-acto knife with replacement blades for ~$3 if you buy locally. Amazon has onefor 3.82 without replacement blades. They're super nice knives because if you decide not to use them for carving (you either upgrade or decide you don't enjoy it), they still have a billion uses around the house. And since they're the size of a pen, they're easy and discrete to carry! I would mail you one if I could afford postage. :-P

u/faultysynapse · 6 pointsr/Bushcraft

Oh fun! $500 is a good amount to work with. I am going to assume he has absolutely nothing as you said full kit.

This folding saw is just awesome, and on sale! I've had one for many years. About $22.

This Knife is a lot more heavy duty than the Moras people will inevitably recommend (not that there is anything wrong with them). It's also a lot more expensive. I think it would make a nice gift. Also on sale. $104.

A pot $15.

A Silnylon tarp $63.

Gotta have paracord $10

There are a lot of firesteels out there but this one was uber cheap and looks just like the one I've had for years. >$2.

I would HIGHLY recommend a small forest of Hultafors, Wetterlings, or Gransfors Bruks make. I couldn't find a good link for them on Amazon. They'll be about $150

All told that list(including and axe) is about $360 before tax and shipping) Obviously a pack to put it would top it all off and bring you pretty close to $500 mark. It's just too personal a choice and I can't begin recommend one.

What stuff if any does he have already? A blanket or sleeping bag could be a good choice. A small alcohol stove too.



u/Sung-gil · 1 pointr/knives

For mainly camping get a Cold Steel GI Tanto on Amazon. I usually don't like tango style blades but Cold Steel's has a thick edge that's great for bushcraft while the secondary edge/tip is great for prying and other heavy duty tasks. It is 1055 carbon steel so do clean it after every use. I recommend you modify the grip to something better though, I personally use tennis over grips as they are cheap and amazing.

Or if you want something smaller for both camping and EDC I suggest a Kershaw Skyline

u/mr-fahrenheit_ · 1 pointr/ArtisanVideos

Wow! Thanks for an awesome reply. Unfortunately I'm not in a position where I can spend much money so I'll have to see if I can find some flea markets near me to buy some stuff at. All this stuff is great info that I need to look at better when I have time where I don't need to be asleep. But while I'm here I want to ask you one thing: What do you think of the Kreg jig? I'm using it to hold on the back of some floating nightstands and also used it heavily on my desk, although on my desk they aren't really load bearing whereas on the nightstands all the weight is going through that backplate first.


Thanks again for the awesome reply :)

u/man_on_a_screen · 1 pointr/metalearth

CHP-170 Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NYI1AbCK4Y43D

This one works perfect for me. Never tried much cutting with the tip but never overlaps and cuts pieces out perfectly, and a very tight fit when closed. Not expensive, in fact an add on item u have to purchase with a larger order, but might be able to find the same as a stand alone. Have gotten one for my gf and brother both and they have never had overlap issues. They are flush and I highly recommend.

Edit: they say flush in the description but might be the same as the other poster u/bluetrombonium linked to idk. But they work for me well and seem sharp, but again don't use tip cutting for anything.

Edit2: I think they are exactly the same but with red handles. Also 3 dollars cheaper for some reason but out of stock on the other site, but seem to have exact same specs. Probably this is your best bet lol https://www.hakkousa.com/products/chp-tools/chp-hand-tools/cutters/chp-170-d.html

u/keen4e · 3 pointsr/LegoStorage

Hi. The number of drawers is really dependent on your piece size and variety.

As for categorization, I think I can help! It's definitely not practical to keep each part in its own drawer. Instead most people sort by part (not color!), then decide on classifications as far as what to keep together. You want to keep your categories sufficiently broad, so you can easily know where to find things like plates, arches, bricks, technic pieces, etc but not be so cumbersome that you can't keep up with where things are. Labeling your drawers once you have them is very useful for this as well. As for the specific categories themselves, it really depends on your unique collection but I find this to be a good starting point: https://www.reddit.com/r/lego/comments/ayp1wt/print_out_of_rebrickable_taxonomy_poster_at_300/

​

You can branch out from there based on the pieces you have more/less of. The first modification I would recommend is to keep all 1x1 bricks/tiles/plates separate because they just sink to the bottom of a big drawer otherwise and are hard to track down. I have a bunch of tiny bins just for them in a Stanley organizer like this: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B00005QWYF/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=stanley+25+container&qid=1554229435&s=gateway&sr=8-1 but the akro mils drawers are also highly recommended here

​

Hope this helps!

u/wittlepup · 2 pointsr/knives

Victornox makes pretty dang good knives at a great price. I would also recommend the RAT 1 as a great, incredibly solid knife. It is, however, a rather heavy duty knife, so if you are looking for something a little lighter I'd recommend browsing THIS budget knife list for one you like best.

u/xg220 · 3 pointsr/EDC

If you want a knife, take a look at the Kershaw Leek it's an awesome, medium sized folder, it is a great value for what you get. Amazon puts them on sale for sub $35 sometimes, so keep an eye out for that. It also has some different colored handle scales if you want to personalize it more to your liking.

If you want something a little smaller than the Leek, you could take a look at the Spyderco Ambitious, which is also a high value knife (less so than it's $35 bigger brother the Tenacious).

If you want an even smaller blade, take a look at the Spyderco Ladybug, it sports a 1.94 inch blade, so very inconspicuous and not "scary looking" at all. It'll look even more fun if you get yellow handle scales on it. They also have a purple version.

These are just a few options for you to look at, it really is only the tip of the iceberg. These are low cost, high value for what you get, I'm recommending the lower cost knives specifically because someone who isn't into knives might not value them as much (and thus not willing to pay higher amounts of money) compared to a person who is into knives. A lot of people think "What do I need a knife for?", well buy one, carry it on your person for a month and get back to me, you will see what a useful tool it is after carrying one for a decent amount of time.

u/paingawd · 5 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

If cost isn't an issue, then one of the all-in-one kits should get you just about everything you need: Resistance meter, micro screwdrivers, pliers, coil wrapping tool/mandrels, scissors and some tweezers(Preferably ceramic tipped)

If you're tight on cash, there's a few routes to go. If there's a Harbor Freight nearby, you can get most of what you need there.

  • Micro screwdriver kit: Most of these kits have screwdrivers in the most commonly wrapped coil sizes so that you can actually use the screwdriver as a mandrel for wrapping coils. 2, 2.4, 3 and 3.5 mm are all the most common size of coils, and I have found that I can wrap better coils than the kits can. Here's the set I use. You can find these on Amazon as well, and for not a lot of money.

  • Scissors: Most of the "All-in-One" kits are lacking in some way, and it's usually the scissors. The little fold-out scissors that are included couldn't cut through a wet kleenex. A good, smaller size set of scissors can be found at WalMart, HB, or Amazon and bonus if you're left-handed! You can get a set made just for your backwards hands!(I'm a lefty. I hate trying to use regular scissors for precision work!)

    Resistance Meter: Also referred to as an Ohm reader (shudders). If you're ever going to get into mechs, this is a necessity. Hell, when first building, it's a nice thing to have to check your build for shorts before you slap it on your mod. You can spend as low as $5 usd, or $35-$45 dollars for a Tab unit that can actually fire the coil to work out hot spots.

    Finally, cotton and wire. This has been bandied about ad nauseum about which type of wire and gauge is best, and the debate on wicking materials still comes up from time to time. So, I'll give you my two cents and leave it at that.

    Wire: 26 gauge kanthal. Why? It's easy to work with, provides good flavor and doesn't need to be run at insane wattage levels for great results. If high wattage vaping is your thing, get some 24 gauge. Better still, get both! I like 26 and 28 gauge(Twisted wire YAY!), you'll find your preference as you go. I didn't care for 24 gauge as it made the vape a bit too warm for my liking.

    Cotton for wicking? I swear by Labo Puffs. No "Fresh cotton" taste, easy to work with and lasts for EVAR. I'm still using the 120 pad bag I bought over a year ago, and it'll still be another six months before I need more. Here's the Amazon link for the Prime eligible pads. There are cheaper sellers, but they are in Japan and it can take a week to get to you.

    What's left? Wire cutters, of course! Nail clippers work alright, but something like this works even better!

    There's my suggestions and whatnot. Take or leave what you will, and welcome to the world of building!
u/shillelaghslaw · 2 pointsr/sharpening

An inexpensive stone or two will be worth a shot. There is a lot of evidence that shows its not about the stone but the technique. Without knowing what the local shop by you sells, or the current condition of knives you are using, I typically recommend 3000 and 6000 for a two stone set. That is enough to set a bevel (with a lot of time and energy) and enough to polish most knives. Throw a 1000 grit stone and you would be set.

That being said, you can get more consistently good results easier with higher quality stones. I would recommend the combo king stone. They are around $25 and hit the mark in terms of quality and price. A lot of experienced sharpeners recommend king, Murry Carter being the biggest proponent. With whatever stone you get, remember, it's about angle and pressure. Keep both consistent and proper for the tool and steel you are using.

p.s. you don't 'need' any accessories. but like every hobby, people love them.

edit: the ps

u/poestal · 1 pointr/CampingGear

hey man welcome to bushcrafting so far you have a pretty decent list but i'd like to give you suggestions from what I learned throughout the years.

knife- good choice for chopping and batoning but too much blade to use whittling and making small cuts. generally you want to use either large blade/small blade or axe/ small blade combos.

backpack- 65L is very overkill unless your doing 5 day+ with clothing for every day. I would suggest something in the range of 45L max.

compass- do you know the area your going to or do you really know how to use it? I know every person says to just have one just in case but if they already know their terrain or dont even know how to use the dang thing its just wasting space.

ferro rod- generally stay away from things like multi use gear. also just from my experience you want a long rod (5"+) for more surface area to generate more sparks for an easier chance to catch fire.


pillow- I would not use hammock pillows for on ground sleeping. they're extremely small and have almost no support on the count of your body is in a curling position in a hammock. I would suggest something like an inflatable pillow for you to adjust for your support and then covering it with something like a shemagh or t-shirt.


first aid- your going to get more cuts, scrapes and burns so I would buy extra of that stuff, but I would also add some quick clot just for the off chance of having a serious injury out in the field. and also some moleskin for your feet and pain relievers. and dont forget sunscreen.


now for some additions for your gear loadout.

saw and stay away from those stupid hand chainsaws


cooking vessal


cowhide gloves


Again; welcome and I hope you enjoy yourself and grow with your errors out in the field.

u/papermageling · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

So, it's not hard for a knife to be BIFL. In fact, I have some $10 knives that probably are. What you pay for with a knife is edge quality, geometry, balance, and handle. In a lot of ways, having something to sharpen said knives with is the most important thing, as otherwise your knives will inevitably end up just as dull as your grandmother's.

How much time and effort are you interested in putting into your knives? There are a variety of options. Purists tend to prefer a sharpening stone, as it offers the greatest control. If you want to nerd about your knives, this allows you to control the edge angle and exactly how much material you remove from the knife. It's also the hardest though, and the one you're most likely to slack off from. The Lansky System offers nearly as much control and greater ease of use, and many people like this option.

If you know that both of those options are realistically not going to happen, get a pull through. It'll take a bit more metal from the edge when you sharpen it, but it's worth it if it's what you'll use. I got my parents one, actually. If you get a Western knife, you can pretty much get any pull through. If you get at least one Asian knife, get this pull through so that you can control the angle, as Asian knives are generally sharpened to a more acute angle.

As for knives? You can get really nice ones like Tojiro and Shun, you can get well reviewed ones like Victorinox, and as long as you don't get the super cheapo micro serrated knives, you'll probably be fine. I've got some Tramontina knives from Costco that are quite reasonable, and some Kom Kom knives which I adore and which are stupid cheap. Don't stick wood handled knives in the dishwasher (in general, the dishwasher dulls knives, but it also really is not kind to wood handles), and full tang knives are much better when you're talking wood handles, because they add extra stability.

Don't bother spending a ton of money on bread knives: they're incredibly difficult to sharpen, so it's really not worth it.

u/Shadow703793 · 13 pointsr/modelmakers

A few tips to help you out OP:

  1. Thin your paint. Generally, 50/50 is good starting point. For future note, buy paint brush cleaner and thinner at your local hardware store. Far cheaper and generally works fine.

  2. You should get an Xacto knife and a flush side cutter like this. Use the flush cutters to get the parts off the spruce, and use the Xacto knife to clean it up. The box cutters you have don't give good control and unergonomic for most modeling work.

  3. If you have a Michele's close by, get their general purpose assortment paintbrush pack. This gives you the flat brushes and quite a bunch of other brushes. The flat brushes are ideal for applying primer/base coat.

  4. Go to your hardware store or automotive store and get an assortment pack of sandpaper.

  5. The kit directions aren't always the way to go. When doing tanks/armor and most kits in general, I recommend following a modular approach. So for tanks, paint your road wheels, hull, etc before gluing it together. This makes it a hell of a lot easier to paint.

  6. You should definitely buy some filler. You'll need it to fill larger gaps the glue won't be able to deal with.

    edit:

    A few other useful items you should get either now or later, most of this you should have around the house already:

u/ooomphlaa · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

http://www.steam-engine.org/ (or there are plenty of apps for smart phones)

I recommend against B & M builds unless you truly trust your B & M. I've heard way too many horror stories hear about unscrupulous B & M's and their building practices. If you have a friend that build have them walk you through it and teach you the ropes, watch YouTube, post questions here, but be sure you know 100% what you are doing before you actually fire or vape off your own coil. Be safe, build safe, vape safe.

Snip them with wire cutters (I use something similar to this Amazon) or nail clippers. With a three post setup and doing dual coils I snip the negative posts but then use my needle nose pliers to bend the positive tails back and forth until they snap off. B/c I like this method I generally make the positive tails longer to make this easier.

u/Kalahan7 · 11 pointsr/knives

Kershaw Skyline. It's a great folder for EDC use and yet very affordable.

Super lightweight, reliable, easy to operate, ergonomical, safe to use, great blade size and form, and so cheap it's almost disposable.

A great first knife to see what you like about it and later on maybe spend more on something else.

u/grant1704 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

How good?

Here is one that will last you pretty much for whatever no matter what you do with it, its the soldering iron I have used for the past several years and has been great on a number of projects: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M/

Here is one that will do just fine but isn't great or anything:
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC

The most important feature for a good soldering station is variable temperature.

The only other things you will need is solder:
https://www.amazon.com/WYCTIN-Solder-Electrical-Soldering-0-11lbs/dp/B071G1J3W6, a solder wick: https://www.amazon.com/MIYAKO-Desoldering-Wire-Handy-Dispenser/dp/B010VMHR5M, and possibly wire cutters if you don't have them: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K

Some personal advice is get the best one you can afford if you thing you will use it a lot, the difference between a okay one and a great one is huge. I hated soldering till I got a good iron.

u/fromkentucky · 2 pointsr/Survival

I had an Ontario RAT-5 for a while. About the same size as an ESEE 5, but with a thinner blade and full-flat grind. The handle was uncomfortably bulky and although it held up to my abuse, I just didn't like it. The blade was thin enough to do finer carving tasks, but it was too wide and the edge profile was terrible. I ended up using my Mora knife and Fiskars hatchet more and the RAT-5 was relegated to batoning duty and even in that I preferred the hatchet. In fact, I carved my first bow drill kit with that Fiskars.

I was considering stepping up to an Ontario RAT-7, but instead I traded the RAT-5 for a KaBar Becker BK7, which is a BEAST of a knife. Longer than an ESEE 5, but just as thick and with a similar profile. It really impressed me with the amount of work it could do and how easy it was to use, but it was heavy and just too fat to do anything but chop and split, so again, I was using my Mora and hatchet for most stuff.

I finally decided to try a different direction and traded the BK7 for a much smaller ESEE 4. Around the same time I bought a Bahco Laplander, and I am in love with this combo. The Bahco eats through 1-2" branches with ease (while generating plenty of sawdust for tinder) and the ESEE is just long enough to baton them into kindling and carve up some feather sticks. The best part is, the ESEE 4 and Bahco together weigh about as much as the BK7 in its sheath, and take up about as much space, but they are FAR more versatile.

I realize the ESEE 4 may be just out of your price range, but Kabar makes a similar knife called the BK16. However, the ESEE comes with a lifetime warranty.

I still take my Fiskars with me occasionally, but for weekend camping, I can process plenty of firewood with the ESEE and Bahco faster than I ever could with any of the bigger knives. If I needed to build a shelter or was venturing into unfamiliar territory, I'd want the hatchet because it's such a capable tool.

The ESEE 5 was designed for downed pilots who can't fit a hatchet or folding saw into their kit but may need to build a shelter, so they made it big and heavy. I understand first hand that big knives are appealing and certainly have their strong points, but their size, weight and thickness can make them difficult to use in a lot of ways and in reality, a big knife will never chop as well as a decent hatchet, because the knife's weight is centered just above the handle, not directly behind a huge wedge that drives into the wood. What you really want in a survival knife is versatility and I've spent a lot of time, money and energy figuring out that size doesn't add versatility.

u/krazykitties · 1 pointr/ECR_Plus

I don't use a blowtorch or a lighter. When the coil heats up from the you can just adjust it easily with tweezers and the thing you wrapped around. OK well I'm too lazy to rephrase this, but here's a big list of scattered supplies:


$250 is way too much for what you listed, you can get way cheaper than that. Keep in mind you really don't NEED 100W to use an RDA. My homemade DNA30 is great for a cool vape on something with a bit more restricted airflow than the Mutation, but that will still work just fine. I would stick with your current Sigelei 30W until you know for sure you want to upgrade, because that is going to cost you the single most amount of money.

If you want the mutation x v2, grab it here for $30, its worth getting this one authentic and not a clone because its so cheap to begin with and most clones do not have the wide bore drip tip.

Japanese Cotton is what I usually use.

For the rest of your gear, Lightning Vapes has a good selection of well priced rebuilding supplies:

Ohm Meter $14.75

I recommend Ceramic Tweezers $12.95

I mostly use 28ga Kanthal (100 feet for $6.25) with my 30W box mod, with mechs I use lower gauges

I would also find a pair of flush cutters to snip wires as close to the posts as you can, and some nice small scissors to cut your cotton.

OH! Almost forgot, this is what I use to wrap my coils.

As a general rule of thumb, don't buy wire or wick from websites that sell mostly juice or hardware, it will almost always be overpriced.


If you want to get REALLY cheap and don't mind waiting, go check out Fasttech

u/chronsbons · 2 pointsr/Tools

TASTAK's seem like they could be fine, especially since your drill/driver only has a soft case to go with it. Tastak may well be a better solution than that.

As far as other tools though, the TASTAK's seem optimized to hold a large power tool well in the lower compartment and then fasteners and hardware in the top sorting bins. This part is what i would call less than ideal. Plenty of people like these stanley cases for organization of small parts. but having that integrated into the top of the box... i am not sure how i would want to use that.

If i had to pick from the TASTAK line the two storage things that look the most appealing to me are the Deep Box and the Drawers

the bottom like is that anything you pick up is going to need some custom organization solutions. I just got the 13" Milwaukee box and am looking at building some custom organizers today out of 1/2" acrylic and wood for the prototype and later 3D printed ABS. i don't think there is a perfect solution for everyone because everyone has different tools in their box.

u/kyriose · 2 pointsr/guildball

My recommended buying list for a new painter is:

Tools

  • Nippers
  • Hobby Knife
  • Thinning Medium
  • Glue
  • Glue Accelerant
  • Brush Cleaner
  • Palette

    Sprays

  • Primer
    ○ Grey is standard, white if you're painting a majority of light colors, and black if the majority is dark.
  • Matte Varnish

    Brushes

  • Brushes
    ○ Round 0
    ○ Round 1
    ○ Round 2


    All in all it should be around $60 USD for the tools and about $40 USD for the brushes. However, this list gives you every tool you will need to get started and to continue with the hobby. Nt all of this is required, but it is nice to have.

    This is just what I like to have on hand, this does not reflect the "perfect list". I hope it helps :)
u/lanmansa · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

A glaze would certainly cover up imperfections but it won't last too long. What country are you in? Can you do shipping through Amazon? If so I would recommend this, if price and shipping isn't too crazy. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_y6buzb0CTB6TD

Then check out the chemical guys pads on Amazon as well. If you cant get good shipping via Amazon then I'm sorry, I wish I knew more to be of help! But good luck!

u/djstefan96 · 3 pointsr/knives

For fixed blade if you are gonna be using the knife for hard use then I would not recommend a folder. I'm more knowledgeable on folders so someone else may find a better choice. If they don't, this is still a very solid choice, I have never had one, but I did have an izula (which is very similar).

For folder I would go with the Ontario rat, they make this is d2 blade steel which would be better and they make a smaller version (rat 2) but any version of this knife you choose will be the best for the money.

Another fixed blade that is similar to picture is this Schrade. Schrade usually isn't the best company but 1095 is definitely a cheap, good steel. With the blade thickness and steel, I would trust this knife any day.

u/TOUCHER_OF_SHEEP · 2 pointsr/knives

SRM 710 is officially seconded. For a bit more money (link is $100), MCusta makes some nice looking knives. That's VG-10 and a beauty, my friend. The Kershaw Leek could work as well. The CRKT Drifter is very similar to the SRM 710, but a bit faster and easier to obtain. Higo no Kami knives are potentially pretentious, but beautiful. My final recommendation, the Spyderco Centofante 3 is a great choice for slightly over $50 ($52 on Amazon, right now) and also uses VG-10 but for less, though the Spyderhole isn't appealing to everyone.

For more expensive options (I have multiple on my Amazon wishlist alone), just ask, though since they all break your price limit and I've already done that twice I'll wait for further questioning first.

u/zrevyx · 2 pointsr/olkb

You can use either type of switch.

That being said, I'd recommend that you use plate-mount switches. Many people do use PCB-mount switches, but they're not really necessary since the switches fit quite snugly into the plate, and the plate is made of beefy stainless steel. Besides, if you use the PCB-mount switches, you'll have a bugger of a time getting them to sit flush on the PCB since those leg holes are smaller than the legs themselves.

One thing to note: if you've bought Zealios for your planck, I highly recommend clipping those legs for best results. You can use a pair of flush cutters to clip those things off quite nicely. (This is what I use on my Zealios.)

EDIT: Re-read your question. Hope this is a better answer.

u/gtNonja · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I purchased the Leatherman Skeletool for my groomsmen. In retrospect, I'm not sure if they all use them since some of them live out of town, but I bought myself the Leatherman Skeletool CX and carry it daily. I think it makes a great pocketknife replacement since it's small, and having the added tools is very handy. I did have the pliers break on me, but Leatherman replaced the entire unit through their lifetime warranty. Fill out a form and send it in; I didn't have to provide proof of purchase.

If you go the Zippo route, it might be nice to have them engraved with the groomsmen's name and a short note. My wife did something similar for me as part of gift one year.

I think a Leatherman is a good pick, and I'd get the same thing for everyone. A personalized item for each person is nice too (i.e. each person gets something completely different), but that makes the selection process longer. So it depends on how much work you want to put into it.

u/daguz · 4 pointsr/triangle

This is exactly what you are NOT looking for but I'll say it anyway... just to hear myself talk:

I just bought a Whetstone from amazon and am amazed how easy it is with the right equipment. I was using a diamond stone and gave up. This was cheap and I get a perfect edge in minutes. The edge lasts longer than using the diamond. Don't forget to use a steel everytime you use the knife anyway.

https://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Sharpening-Stone-Whetstone-Combination/dp/B001DT1X9O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1496761905&sr=8-4&keywords=wet+stones+for+sharpening+knives

u/ListenHereYouLittleS · 2 pointsr/woodworking

If the EVS goes out, the router runs at max speed. Which can still be used but scares the crap out of me for slightly larger bits. The best tried and true router is the porter cable here

If you don't need anything that powerful, this one works well also.

Mid power range, this works okay as well.

There are a few other options available. If you want to move it between a pantorouter and table, these will work well. If you want to use it for router table only, triton is a much better choice due to the built in router lift and above table bit change.

u/__Nidhogg__ · 1 pointr/Netrunner

Love the Ultimate Guard Twin Flip Tray with Xenoskin. The token holder in the deck box isn't really large enough for everything you need, but a set of dice for casual play fits well there. Tokens themselves are best kept (and organized) in a Plano-style plastic tray with good clasps. You don't want them coming undone in your bag.

I've seen a couple people use Stanley (or similar) brand organizers for carrying a large number of decks around, but you'd want to check the size of the compartments carefully before buying.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G1CUK0

u/Glangho · 1 pointr/minipainting

Something something Kingdom Death...

Of the three I don't think any can compare to GW, especially considering GW uses plastic almost exclusively. Infinity makes some nice models but I was never a fan of painting pewter.

You'll pretty much always have to clean mold lines and fill gaps though. Even GW and KD, both do amazing work in plastic, have mold lines that should be cleared and gaps filled.

Make sure you're using the correct tool for clipping. You'll want a flush cutter like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ/ref=pd_sbs_21_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000IBOOWQ&pd_rd_r=5KJZ0XRMB3R7355FNZAN&pd_rd_w=blY62&pd_rd_wg=jYgcH&psc=1&refRID=5KJZ0XRMB3R7355FNZAN

u/djjoshuad · 8 pointsr/woodworking

grab this one and all your concerns will be addressed. it has both fixed and plunge bases. 1/4 and 1/2 collets. plenty of power, and since the bases are removable it mounts great in a router lift or a non-lift table. The fixed base is even designed to work as a mini-lift, allowing adjustments through the table. I own three of these and love them.

edit: it also has quite a few available attachments, like dust collection, edge guides, etc. it's a great starter router and a great forever router, IMO.

u/Zak · 1 pointr/EDC

The Kershaw Skyline is currently on sale for $30 from Amazon; it's usually a bit over $40.

The Skyline is an excellent knife at its regular price and even better for $30. 14C28N is easy to sharpen and holds its edge longer than other budget steels. The knife is extremely light, barely over 2 ounces. The blade geometry is excellent for cutting things (it's surprising how many knives are not), and Kershaw's warranty is one of the best in the industry.

Possibly relevant to you: its pocket clip holds it in place quite securely.

u/godswearhats · 2 pointsr/Malifaux

Scissors are no good. I got these clippers from Amazon. They are actually wire clippers, but the $5 is well spent.

All the models in the Misaki box are Ten Thunders, except Misaki and Shang (the totem) who are dual faction. However, Misaki has a special rule that allows her to hire four "Last Blossom" models into her crew regardless of declared faction, so if you declare her as Outcasts you can still hire the whole crew box.

Each boxed set comes with all the bases you need, so don't worry on that front.

For competitive play with the Guild Masters, you'd probably want to have both boxes as the Judge and Francisco are excellent henchmen, and Death Marshals are good minions, and Nino is a good Enforcer.

Ultimately when you get fully competitive (think: Magic the Gathering) you end up having every model in the faction.

u/darkharlequin · 3 pointsr/shittyrobots
u/fathergoat_adventure · 2 pointsr/CampingandHiking

At first glance...

Check out this NatureHike sleeping bag. 24oz's and is great for summer camping. It's good down to maybe 50-55 degrees, but will cut 1.5lb from your pack during the warmer months.

Leatherman and a folding knife? Why? Check out a leatherman squirt at 1.9 oz. I've got one and I love it. This would remove nearly 12oz.

That hammock is heavy. I DIY'd one for $35 and it only weighs 7.5oz. Or, pick up a dutch hammock for 7.3oz (though, this is a little more expensive at $42). This would save another 12oz.

These three would save 48oz or a full 3 lbs!

u/free2game · 3 pointsr/knives

If you go up to $30-40 you can find a lot of great american made knives in that range like a Kershaw Skyline ($35), Salvo ($30), or Buck 110 Paperstone ($30) Classic ($35), Vantage Avid ($34)
BTW, a good pocket clip shouldn't be uncomfortable in your hand. None of the pocket knives I've owned have dug into my hand at all. The Buck is a nice option if you don't want a clip though.

u/toxiczombiex · 2 pointsr/EDH

I personally use the Stanley organizer. Perfect fit for up to 8 commander decks, and two larger spaces for anything you need. All the compartments are rearrangeable and no cards fall through because the lid seals tightly.

I suppose you could make it fit 7 commanders, and remove the 2 big compartments and 1 small one, and it might be able to fit a playmat. But i just carry the case+my backpack with my trade binder and playmat.

Best of all its super cheap, and super sturdy.
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B001G1CUK0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495426718&sr=8-1&keywords=stanley%2Bcase&th=1

u/eatsleepraverepeat7 · 2 pointsr/DIY

Totally worth the money:
A drill that will actually drill holes. I bought a POS drill (50 bucks) and it had no power to it. I finally dropped 250 on this and well worth every penny:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DG7SYYI
If you're doing any type of wood working and you want to join peices of wood securely and have it look nice look into the Kreg Pocket Hole Jig:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J43A7W
I also purchased this guy to help clean up the massive extension cable that I have in my garage. Totally worth it as well:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005A1K1
Also invest in a good pair of safety glasses and dust mask.

u/NathCraft27 · 6 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Oh for sure! What's your price range?

For under 40$ some great options would be the Kershaw Leek , the Kershaw Cryo (the Cryo II is a bit larger for almost the same price if you prefer) or anything Kershaw really. You could also look for Sanrenmu knives, they're good for the price.

If you're really serious and you're looking for better quality, I recommend the Spyderco Delica (smaller), the Spyderco Endura (larger) or the Benchmade Griptilian (mini or full size, your choice). I own a mini Griptilian and I love it, I really recommend it if you can justify the price.

u/windupmonkeys · 4 pointsr/modelmakers

Various tutorials are available on this website; I've included the one about welding parts together that would be most relevant to a beginner:

http://www.scalemodelguide.com/construction/techniques/how-to-glue-parts-together/


Model Recommendations:

Airfix Zero, or a Spitfire Mk.22.

They both are new tool kits, cheap, should fit well, and have simple paint schemes. I have built the Mk.22 and the Spitfire PR XIX below; both fit very well and require minimal filling.

Don't pick camo paint jobs; pick something simple thats one to three colors with straight lines for color demarcations.

http://www.amazon.com/Airfix-A02017-Supermarine-Spitfire-Military/dp/B0021L9BNI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394416699&sr=8-1&keywords=spitfire+PRXIX

http://www.amazon.com/Airfix-A01005-Mitsubishi-Model-Building/dp/B0055ANHD2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394416717&sr=8-1&keywords=airfix+zero

Basic materials:

X-acto knife
Brushable paint, e.g. like Model Master Acrylic.
Wide, medium, and fine detail brush (I recommend golden talkon brushes you get at art stores for quite cheap) Like say, 1/4 inch wide brush, a smaller brush, and then a fine detail brush, maybe 1/0 or 5/0 brush for fine detail work. (The total of that shouldn't come out to more than 10 dollars at most.)
Liquid cement:(See tutorial here)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2clHW2UN0w

The idea is to weld it together with the solvent and then shave off the excess so you don't need to fill the seams.

Decal setting solution (a simple bottle of microsol will generally be adequate)

Tweezers.

A spray can of primer (it can be like krylon, probably).

If you're wanting to get fancy, a sprue cutter:

http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394416917&sr=8-1&keywords=sprue+cutter

Other tips:

Brushes that come in "starter packs" generally suck, as does the paint.



PS: Don't buy "packages" of tools offered by model retailers until you google the price of each component separately. Those tool packages are often made of cheap junk that are lumped together and then sold at a premium.

The bare minimum (assuming you don't have a good, SHARP pocketknife) is liquid cement, and then a starter kit that includes paint, and three paintbrushes (of the widths I mentioned), and wet and dry sandpaper from the hardware store (try for 800 grit or higher).

Oh. And patience. Lots of it.

u/joelav · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Assuming you are starting from the ground up and need everything, it's going to be tight and you'll have to skimp in some places, but this is exactly what I would do. The grand total here is $5005.00 and that includes shipping on the big ticket items which is a few hundred dollars.

Table saw and related stuff:

[Grizzly G0715xp] (http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series-/G0715P)

Freud Premier Fusion

[Freud SD208] (http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SD208-8-Inch-Professional-Dado/dp/B0000223O9/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395407011&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+sd208)

Gr Ripper 3d advanced (awesome on the router table too

Make your own ZCI's

Table Saw Total - $1,142

Jointer

Grizzly G0654 6" jointer (sell this on craigslist when you can upgrade to the 8". They hold their value really well and sell fast)

Jointer total $534.00

Planer

Dewalt DW734 - $399.99 most places. The 735 is nice, but not that much nicer. If I were to upgrade beyond the 734, I'd go for a 15" stationary unit.

Miter saw

Definitely go craigslist on this one. These things are a dime a dozen there. You can get a sliding 12" Dewalt/Makita/Ridgid, etc for around 250.00 to 300.00 Also pick up a decent Irwin Marples or Diablo blade

SCMS total - ~320.00

Bandsaw:

Craftsman BAS350. I own this. It's the SAME EXACT saw as the Rikon 10-321, just 200.00 cheaper. 8" resaw capacity and no stupid riser blocks to fuck up the geometry of your saw and make tensioning a nightmare.

Bandsaw Total - 620.00 with the Rikon resaw fence (bolt on) and a few timberwolf blades

Harbor Freight 2hp Dust collector, a lot of hoses, blast gates, and material to mod it to a 2 stage cyclone - 400.00

Router(s)

Bosch 1617 with both plunge and fixed bases

MLCS 15 bit set. Not the best, but better than absolutely anything else in this price range. Replace bits with Whiteside or Amanna when you have the cash.

Router and bits total 200.00

Also make your own table and fence to fill the empty space in your table saw.

Sanding

{Milwaukee 6021-21 Random Orbit Sander. Best ROS on the market until you go Festool/Ceros

Some klingspor abrasives in different grits

Shop vac bucket max and a 5gal bucket - perfect for sanders

Ridgid oscilating spindle sander. This is a tool I could definitely not live without after owning.

Sanding total - $320.00

Drill Press

Porter cable floor press

Also get the Porter Cable Forstner bit set and some decent brad points/twists)

Drill Press/bits total - ~$420.00

Clamps

Jorgensen Cabinet Master 4pc Set and various other bar clamps. The Pittsburgh ones from HF are pretty good

Clamps total ~ $250.00

Misc stuff

Woodriver bench chisels.

A vintage stanley block plane, and a jack plane

some plywood/melamine, and cheap hardwood and hardware to make a cross cut sled, router table/fence. drill press table, a workable bench/outfeed table and a grizzly woodworking end vise

Misc total - ~400.00


u/Yolocopter · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Happy Birthday!! Sushi makes me happy...but you know what makes me even happier?? Seeing my new puppy befriend a cat! cutest thing ever<3

I would love this for my keychain (: ^^

u/doebedoe · 2 pointsr/vandwellers
  • Kreg pocket hole jig -- $40 to make carpentry projects super easy.
  • Rivnut tool -- for mounting things to sheet metal.
  • Shop towels -- more versatile paper towels.
  • good cooler -- ice last 5-8 days even in the middle of summer heat.
  • bug nets for windows -- but them pre-made or build your own. Gives you airflow in summer without letting the bugs in.
  • candle lantern -- cheap. Safe if you blow it out before crawling into bed. Nice soft lighting to give you a break from blue LEDs.
  • Aeropress coffee maker -- great coffee where ever you are. Quick and easy to clean.
  • mechanic gloves -- for when you've got to do work and don't want super greasy hands and bloody knuckles.
u/grumblegeek · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

The items I can think of right now that I've bought pretty much because of this subreddit:

  1. Zojirushi Travel mug - I use this as my office coffee mug. I fill it up in the morning and if I get sidetracked then it's still hot hours later.

  2. Saddleback Pocket ID Wallet - simple and gets the job done

  3. Weber One-Touch Gold Charcoal Grill - I love this grill.

  4. Red Wing Iron Ranger 8111 (amber color) - the first 3 weeks I thought I made a huge mistake but now they are the most comfortable shoes I've ever owned.

  5. Fisher Space Pen - I've had to stop other people from pocketing it. My wife tried to take it because she likes the way it writes.

  6. [Kershaw Skyline Knife] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CZBDF8) - I'm not into putting a lot of money into a pocketknife so this fits the bill nicely.

  7. ToiletTree Heavy Duty Nose and Facial Hair Trimmer - my previous nose trimmers felt like it was ripping the hair out by the root. This one I don't feel anything and it's very well made

    All of these I would buy again.
u/jsamhead · 2 pointsr/EDC

Great! That's super helpful. Looks like as far as knives go, your best bet is to stick with knives that don't lock OR require two hands to open. Since you're a minor I'd abide by both actually, and stick to a two-hand open knife without a blade lock. Fortunately, that's fairly common on multitools that are great for EDC.

My favorite small multitool is the Leatherman Squirt PS4. A more budget-friendly alternative would be a Gerber Dime. Each of these are a fantastic EDC multitool. The Leatherman is especially capable. I use mine all the time. If those won't work for you, you can't go wrong with a Victorinox Swiss army knife and I think they're availible pretty much everywhere.

As far as a flashlight goes, I suggest one that's USB Rechargeable. That makes it really easy to recharge and always have plenty of battery. The most EDC frieldly USB rechargeable light I know of is the Streamlight Microstream USB.

I don't know if those are availible in Germany or what they cost over there, but that should give you some ideas.

u/novel_yet_trivial · 6 pointsr/AskElectronics

I own 3 of these. They are good robust basic multimeters. For learning this is plenty. The thermocouple function is one of those things that you didn't know you needed until you had it. As you progress you will probably find that you wish you had more multimeters before you wish you had better multimeters.

With the money you save, I highly recommend some test clips, some wire cutters / strippers, and perhaps some side cutters (links to the ones I recommend).

u/mahoganymike · 2 pointsr/Leathercraft

One of my older comments about somem tools here: some links might be dead but you can search for a similar listing online

Chisels: Aiskaer White Steel 3mm 1/2/4/6 Prong DIY Diamond Lacing Stitching Chisel Set Leather Craft Kits(3mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014549STU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CRaSBbK7CG7MJ

Burnisher: YazyCraft Multi-Size Wood Slicker Leather Leathercraft Solid Wood Round Burnishing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IZAV998/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aSaSBbMVYTCE1

Exacto knife: X-ACTO #1 Knife, Z Series With Safety Cap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PSaSBbF4PTFBC

Edger: Kinee 7 in 1 Pro Stitching Groover and Creasing Edge Beveler,DIY Leathercraft Sets,sew & Crease Leather,Wood & Steel Hand Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073F6WCBT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GTaSBbESQHWPV

Glue:Fiebing's Leathercraft Cement, 4 oz - High Strength Bond for Leather Projects and More - Non-toxic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003W0GFTU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-TaSBbWHMVA13

Thread: Rugjut 8 Roll 8 Colors 150D Leather Sewing Waxed Thread Cords,0.8mm,Each of 33 Yards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BN8JMQ1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aVaSBbM0KJ3E7

Total: my math says around 35 +-3$ which is not bad considering you will definitely need these tools. And needles of course which can be which ever as long as they are dull and not too sharp pointed. I use John James needles in the smallest size but they have many sizes for larger projects as well!

u/Burkules · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Ontario RAT 1 - great knife with great reviews: full 5 stars on 149 reviews.

I just bought one myself and am very impressed with it. Rock solid with great blade steel (AUS 8) with a Rockwell C hardness around 56.

u/otoledo1 · 1 pointr/InfinityTheGame

I am using 4mm (nearly 1/4 inch) foamboard purchased from my local Dollar Tree. The foamcore from places like Office Depot is expensive enough that we'd be better served by just buying laser-cut MDF terrain. If I'm looking to experiment, then the "cheap stuff" is more than sufficient, and I honestly can barely tell the difference once the terrain is assembled.

As far as tools go, I am only using a metal straight edge, and a hobby knife. For a while, I was also using a tiny t-square, but I'll be damned if the factory cut edges weren't straighter than what I was getting from the tool. In hind sight, I should have bought on of these.

Getting the lines straight is a beast of a different stripe. That is patience put into practice. Try to draw out as much of the feature as possible so you can take your time with the cuts. Using the metal straight edge as a guide, I drag the knife just over the cut to break the first layer of paper over the foamcore so that the shown edge is as straight and clean as possible. It's super important to use a decently fresh blade. You know you're doing it right when the drawn line looks like it's being erased by the knife; it looks so weird! Once I've made the first cut, I'll line up the second. This cut is for the actual foam of the foamcore. For this cut, the central focus is keeping the blade as straight up-and-down as possible. I do this to ensure that the actual meat of the cut looks as perpendicular as possible to the surface of the material. The third and last cut is for the for the bottom layer of paper. Ultimately it's three cuts per edge, and it's time consuming, but you can't argue with results.

I hope I've answered your questions. If you have any more, please feel free to ask.

u/n0ne0ther · 1 pointr/Survival

For those interested;

  • Fenix E05
  • Leatherman Squirt(pliers version)
  • Spyderco Tenacious
  • Paracord keychain

    Got everything for about $100. I really love the Leatherman, who knew something so small could have such great quality standards, it feels so solid. The Fenix is crazy small and light, couldn't believe it. Finally the Tenacious is a great knife for under $50, also great build quality and man is the clip tight, that thing isn't going anywhere.
u/kerrcobra · 3 pointsr/EDC
u/Manse_ · 1 pointr/Cooking

King's generic 1000/3000 dual stone is a great buy for the price. I had one that lasted for years before it was too dished/clogged to put an edge on anything. Then I needed a flattening stone to bring it back to fighting condition.

Though, if you have the spare cash, Kramer's waterstone set is amazing. You can get a very good edge with the King stones, but that Kramer set has a very different feel.

Also, you'll want a nagura (if you don't get the Kramer set that comes with one). A lot of the king stones offered on Amazon come with one. It's used to clean/condition the stone, flatten out smaller imperfections (over the heavy cleaning stone above), and make a slurry to really polish on your high grit stones.

Also Also, one shout out to Upon Leather on Amazon. I picked up a strop from them that is very good quality leather, with more polishing compound than I will ever need, and a no-shit handwritten thank you note in the box. Just need to mount it to a piece of scrap wood and you're good to go.

u/paperwaller · 1 pointr/knifeclub

Are these what you're referring to - [Ontario Rat](https://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=pd_bxgy_200_img_2? amd the ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8CAA01P0370Z040V1D22) and the Rat 2?

I would like a partially serrated blade but this looks great and have awesome reviews. Do you own on of the RATs and if so do they hold up pretty well?

Now I just need to find a good sharpening setup besides my 4 stone sets.

u/az_liberal_geek · 1 pointr/woodworking

Yes. DeWalt makes very nice routers and this is a very reasonable mid-size model. I'm going to give two other recommendations, though.

For mid-sized routers, you can't go wrong with the Bosh 1617EVSPK. It is a solid workhorse and wins more than a few comparison tests: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD/

Honestly, though, I'd skip a mid-size router if I was getting my first router. The new compacts are extremely versatile and I find myself reaching for mine most of the time. It's gotten to the point that I use my router table for router table type stuff and my compact for everything else. My mid-size just sits there, except for rare occasions.

The best compact router I've found is the DeWalt DWP611PK. I've had it for about a year and it's been my go-to router ever since: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049ZFUK2/

u/Dreadnot9 · 1 pointr/XWingTMG

I use this Stanley organizer: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B00005QWYF/ref=pd_yo_rr_bia_t_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XXZR73DK5FA42671GG9D

In it I've got:

  • All my pilot and reference cards (except duplicates)
  • All my upgrade cards
  • Two damage decks
  • All focus, evade, stress, ion and other tokens
  • 9 of each kind of dice
  • My large ship bases

    It could easily store things like bases and dials, I just simply keep those in my foam.

    It works really well, the large compartments are perfectly sized for pilot cards, and the medium ones are great for upgrade cards. The smallest ones are good for holding tokens and dice. I'd highly recommend it, and the great part is it's relatively inexpensive and you can always just pick up a second when/if your collection grows!
u/panascope · 8 pointsr/Warhammer40k

>brushes

If you use GW brushes, get the Standard, Fine Detail, and Wash brushes. These give you a good starting point for most of the stuff you'll be doing. Otherwise you'll want to find similar brushes in other ranges (Windsor & Newton make good brushes). If you go with third-party brushes I think the sizes you'll want are 1, 0, & 3/0.

>mats,

You can get any sort of sewing mat, where it's basically just a piece of rubber you lay on the table. Joann's Fabrics or any sort of sewing store should have this. Here's one I found on Amazon.

>thinners

The paint you're working with is water based, so water will work as a thinner. If you decide to airbrush things that will change what you need but for now, build a wet palette.

>cutters

Try these

>etc

You'll need some glue at the very least. You might also want some helping hands to hold things while you paint them/glue them together.

>is there a site that tells you what colours you need to paint certain colour styles?

I'm not aware of any one site as a catch-all for painting any scheme, but googling things led me to this site that goes into detail about painting Space Wolves. You could also consider this video from Games Workshop where they go through the steps of painting the model.

As for the paints themselves, I'd recommend working with the Vallejo Game Color paint range. They come pre-thinned (extremely helpful for new painters) and convert to Games Workshop colors pretty easily.

Some more hobby stuff to help you get started:

Zenithal Priming

Airbrushing

Object Source Lighting

u/signint · 1 pointr/Gunpla

First I'll answer your last question, no, there is nothing wrong with not painting or going all out on a model. Like you said, you have only been at this for a few months and it is always best to start small. If you keep at it, who knows, months down the road you may be making your own custom models. That being said, lets see what I can suggest for getting the best out of your model without putting a ton of time (or money) into it. The first few things I would pick up are:

u/korgothwashere · 2 pointsr/EDC

Well then, I should have recommended the Leatherman Squirt PS4. It cuts, it clamps, it files, it turns screws. It fits on your keychain AND has a bottle opener. It's a bit more expensive but a LOT more versatile!

It's only as long as a key (but about three-four key widths thick). Still small enough to disappear into a change pocket in your favorite jeans, or fits neatly onto your typical lanyard.

I love the shit outta mine, and it's a crafty little bugger!

u/powertyisfromgun · 1 pointr/malelifestyle

Ok so I have never seen a knife like this and a quick google search shows that knives like that are for dressing deer (specifically draining the blood before skinning etc). I have no experience in that area really so I can't really recommend anything. However using your example of chicken cutlets I would recommend one of these knives. They are called gyutos (which translates to cow-sword) and I use one for 95% of the cutting I need to do. I think it would be a better choice for chicken cutlets and some other butchering than that sticking knife imho. Tojiro or Fibrox The tojiro will stay sharper longer, but is more delicate and cannot be steeled or used to cut bone and the fibrox is tougher but will need to be steeled often and sharpened frequently. For either knife I recommend getting a sharpening stone like the King 1000/6000 combo stone and learning to sharpen. I know this isn't exactly what you were looking for but it is the best I've got. I have done much whole animal butchery where a knife like you mentioned would be used. Let me know if you have more questions.

u/bananas2000 · 3 pointsr/cars

Wow. I should get into paint correction. <$250 for all the tools and polish and waxes. As a car guy, I don't mind waxing my car every 6 months (or 4 months if you're in the frigid north or are anal). I also feel it's foolish to drop $2k-4k on these nano-quartz-bullshit schemes that a lot of car guys swear by nowadays. If you want to drop $4k on paint protection, go for it, but I can get a full window-out repaint for the same price!

Here's what I learned:

Buy the equipment:

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Action-Hook-Flexible-Backing-Plate/dp/B0008G1RDK

https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-Microfiber-Towel-Case%2C-324-count.product.100341124.html

https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06

http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html (MIN: 2 orange, 2 white, 1 black, 1 blue -- I prefer doubling this order; Autogeek almost always has 10-25% off coupons on their mailing list)

You will also need an extension wire with the appropriate gauge (too thin/cheap cables might cause you to burn your Porter Cable motor!)


Buy the compounds (start with UC; if swirls aren't getting cut, move up to 50%/50% UC and 105 on the pads; finish with 205 regardless):

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM (medium aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI (most aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC

Wash your car with this, and the two-bucket method:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO

https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Chenille-Microfiber-Premium-Scratch-Free/dp/B002J7KCOG

Claybar the car:

https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Quality-Detailing-Claybar-Shipping/dp/B01MF4BVVS

It took me about 5-6 relaxed hours on a Sunday with a few beers for the full correction. Now I simply top up the wax every few months (and that only takes 30 min).

The thing is, once you do the full correction and get rid of all your swirls and scuffs and whatever clearcoat damage (wash + claybar + M105/UC + M205 + wax), then you don't have to do the FULL correction ever again.

Ever again meaning, if you wash the car properly thereafter with the two-bucket method. You'll simply need to top up the wax once it stops beading -- the wax will protect the clearcoat from damage and swirls.

My wax lasted 6+ months being daily driven in the California sun with three coats of Collinite 845 -- I assume if yours will see more snow and ice and rain, perhaps it'll only last 3-4 months. But since a bottle costs <$20 and you'll get at least 36+ layers out of it, I always recommend this versus the "nano coatings" that people are shelling out $2-4k for.

Here's the Collinite fanboy thread:

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html

Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!

u/alfredbordenismyname · 5 pointsr/knives

Look at the Kershaw Leek, its got a good 3 inch blade, it practically disappears in your pocket, is basically a modern gentlemen's folder, and can get it in several different colors. Its one of the most popular knives out there and is well made. Only thing to watch out for is the tip, its very thin and can break off if you try and use it as a pry bar. You can find the leek for about 40-60 bucks depending on the model.

Link - Kershaw Leek

If you're looking for something heavier duty, the Kershaw Blur or Freefall would be good buys. I use a freefall as one of my EDC knives and think its a great buy for the money. The blur is very well regarded as well, though I don't have experience with one myself.

Link for Blur

Link for Freefall

If you don't absolutely need the spring assist, another idea would be a Spyderco Delica 4, or perhaps a Spyderco Persistence if you want a little cheaper price. Both are solid knives for the money and aren't too bulky in the pocket. You can get the Delica in colors too!

Link for Delica 4

Link for Persistence

u/rabbiabe · 2 pointsr/diypedals

I’m also new to the game and I’ve found tayda to be a much more accessible site than Mouser — I get overwhelmed by the apparently galactic selection and can’t figure out what to get.

Also u/preppyprepface had really important advice— don’t skimp on your stock. I had to go back to tayda almost immediately and order a bunch more stuff because I initially ordered exactly what I needed for a specific PCB and then got really excited about other potential projects, and the shipping takes a while (weirdly, at a certain point if you order enough it comes DHL from Thailand which for some reason is faster than however they ship from Colorado. Who understands these things?). The most important thing to remember is that things will get screwed up — last week I ruined a 3PDT and shorted an LED and it was great to just reach into the bin for another one and keep chugging. Resistors in particular are so cheap that you can’t even buy less than 10 at a time (10 resistors = $0.12 so it makes sense)

You’ll also want a way to keep things organized — I bought this and this and these. In retrospect I wish I had bought two of the first one, but they’re all useful. Some of the bin walls are removable so you can make different size spaces for different kinds of parts. I then used regular sticky labels (Avery 5160) to label the outside so I could see what went where — for the smaller parts like resistors and capacitors I grouped them, so all the x10kΩ resistors went in one bin (in their little ziploc bags), all the x100kΩ in another bin, etc. it still requires some fishing through (vs buying a big table top organizer) but I live in a small house :)

u/novel__ · 3 pointsr/knives

I'm going to recommend knives I own. All of these are pretty high-value.

KA-BAR Dozier Folding Hunter

Manual opening. Own one myself, it's a tank... for 20$? Comes in different colors. Very light.

SOG Flash II

Assisted opening, comes out very forcefully. There's a little "wiggle" in the blade, but if you can get passed that... it's excellent. Somewhat light.

Kershaw Leek

Assisted opening, doesn't come out with as much force as the Flash II. Non-threatening, very well-made. The only thing to watch out for is the delicate tip. It's not like it'll break instantly, though. Just don't pry with it... It's great for detail work. Very thin as well. Very light.

u/nado121 · 1 pointr/Multicopter

You can satisfy all your sticky tape and battery pad needs for life if you get a 5M roll of monkey grip tape, which is on sale atm over at banggood.

Considering how many chinese screws I've already stripped by applying what I feel is reasonable torque, I suggest you get some spare screws.

Most frequently you're going to use M3 screws, between sizes M3x5 and M3x16, so maybe get a couple of those. If you're planning to fly 3'' and smaller, the same margins apply for M2 screws. Throw in some M5 nyloc nuts to secure your props.

Don't overdo it on the soldering tools unless you can afford to spend a lot. The iron is less important than many on here might make you think, . As long as you know what you're doing and using the right tip for the task at hand, you'll be good with a cheap one. So I suggest you watch some videos on youtube and practice.

u/Errat1k already mentioned all the hex drivers you will need.

You'll want to have a pair of wire clippers like these and treat them well. Don't cut anything except wires and zip ties, you'll be good for a long time.

Heatshrink is your friend as well, get some.

u/ANAL_PLUNDERING · 11 pointsr/knives

No problem.

Kershaw Scallion (Small, assisted opening, steel is not so great)

Kershaw Skyline (good size, G10, nice blade shape, steel can get to a crazy level of sharpness)

Kershaw OSO Sweet (pretty cool assisted opener, great price there on amazon)

Spyderco Tenacious (same decent steel on the OSO Sweet and Byrd, good G10, good blade shape, Spyderco quality, great value)

Byrd Cara2 (Great value, overseas production brings prices way down on all Byrd knives)


Here is one above your price range

And one below your price range

u/saerax · 2 pointsr/legodnd

I haven't used full set pieces yet, just a few minor accents. I settled on LEGO figures when I started DM'ing as I had a pretty good existing collection, and supplemented it with some ebay purchases - I actually ended up buying a few sets of knock-off LEGO minifigs from China, which ended up being about $8-$10 per set of 8; quite a bit cheaper than molded figures or authentic LEGO. It let me fill in a lot of gaps pretty quickly on being able to represent various creatures/NPCs. I use some compartment organizers to hold everything, works pretty well.

For your games, it looks like you build most of the world with LEGO - do you play exclusively on fixed sets? How do you handle movement?

u/skwolf522 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I have a tool bag for in the house. I keep all the usual items. I can take a picture of it for ya when I get home.

​

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DG5543-Inch-Tradesmans-Tool/dp/B001P30BO6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dewalt+tool+bag&qid=1563036747&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

Out in the garage the other post got it right with the Harbor Freight tool Chests. You can't go wrong with them. They will hold up and last you forever.

​

You want to keep stuff off the floor so I would recommend these

https://www.samsclub.com/p/members-mark-4-shelf-industrial-storage-rack/prod22160218?xid=plp_product_1_3

they are 2 Feet deep so can hold a lot.

If you buy two you can actually fill up a whole wall.

​

I like these as parts organizers in my garage, Milwaukee makes good ones also. You don't want to go cheap on these, it is a bad day when you go to carry it somewhere and the latch breaks and spills out 1000 screws

​

https://www.amazon.com/DeWalt-DWST14825-10-Compartment-Organizer-Metal/dp/B00AUVX394/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3DS66NM6H7SBY&keywords=dewalt+storage+organizer&qid=1563037131&s=gateway&sprefix=dewalt+storage%2Caps%2C224&sr=8-4

​

I use one like this in the house to hold small parts

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B00005QWYF/ref=sr_1_37?keywords=parts+organizer&qid=1563037496&s=gateway&sr=8-37

​

​

​

Now for stuff I feel will change your life.

​

If you do any electrical work, or for changing face plates. This screwdriver will change your life.

https://www.amazon.com/Interchangeable-Screwdriver-Klein-Tools-67100/dp/B003FC75YE/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=klien+screwdriver+fast&qid=1563037724&s=gateway&sr=8-7

I saw a electrician using it and I had to go buy one.

​

I always have multiple sizes of these in the garage. They work great for hanging or fixing anything.

​

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Deck-Mate-8-x-2-in-Star-Flat-Head-Wood-Deck-Screws-5-lbs-Pack-2DMT5/305418729

I just order Star bits instead of buying a bit set with a bunch a bits I don't use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XYS26HQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

If you have a sawzall and some trees you need to trim these will saw through a 4 inch branch like it is butter.

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PC760R-9-Inch-Pruning-Reciprocating/dp/B005DYMRA4/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_rp_c_0_1/130-4777576-0899065?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005DYMRA4&pd_rd_r=b176538d-8b66-4ae2-ae89-92e5aef62a85&pd_rd_w=eLDwX&pd_rd_wg=Z1XlH&pf_rd_p=4b985ee3-c51c-45b0-b742-d73501cbd701&pf_rd_r=7T9YW21VA3QFF00GFKS4&psc=1&refRID=7T9YW21VA3QFF00GFKS4

​

These are great stud finders. They find the drywall screws that go in to the studs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IKK0OI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I installed 3 of these in my garage and the light output is amazing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078B7KG1R/ref=dp_cerb_1

​

can't think of anything else right now.

u/plc268 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I'll chime in... had my kit for about 2 weeks now and will share my experience:

Tools

If you don't have some of these, I HIGHLY recommend them.

  • Flush Cutters. Fantastic for snipping and trimming zip ties, and great for cutting filament. They're inexpensive at less than $5. https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B00FZPDG1K/
  • Digital Calipers. You'll use these alot. Will come useful in the construction of the printer as well. Can find a decent pair for $10-$20. If you have a harbor freight nearby, they sell some decent ones that always have a coupon.
  • Bondhus Ball Hex Screwdrivers. I don't know people do it, but using those L shaped hex drivers are annoying and uncomfortable. Don't cheap out on these. Bondhus makes some of the best hex drivers in the business and are fairly inexpensive. https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10687-Balldriver-Screwdrivers-ProGuard/dp/B0006O4ADI/
  • M3 Tap - I don't know how widespread it was, but a few people received frames where the holes were not tapped (or if they were, they were covered in powdercoat afterwards), and had screws snap inside of them. You don't want this to happen... happened to me and is a pain to fix. I didn't want to deal with customer support and wait for a new frame, so I tapped the holes myself. Even if you don't need the tap, it'll come useful for a lot of projects since a lot of stuff uses 3mm screws. https://www.amazon.com/Tonsiki-Adjustable-T-Handle-Reversible-Threading/dp/B01M4J4GWL/
  • 3mm hardware kit - Again, you'll likely need some extra 3mm hardware if you plan on modifying the printer or adding on to it. https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-210pcs-Stainless-Socket-Assortment/dp/B014ONCP88/

    Assembly isn't too hard, and the directions are pretty good. My main complaint with the directions is that sometimes they don't explain what's important and not important all the time. I spent a lot of time building, taking apart, and rebuilding the base y-axis frame because I thought I did something wrong (it wobbled) to find out that you fix that wobble as one of the last steps.

    The 100mm distance that you're required to thread double nuts early in the assembly is absolutely critical by the end of the build for many different reasons. It would be nice if prusa included some kind of printed spacer to make that step foolproof.

    Again, assembly is straightforward. I took a span of 3 days to finish mine while dedicating a few hours each night to do it.

    Upgrades

    A couple of things can be improved on the printer. The printer isn't terribly noisy, but you can make it damn near silent with a few upgrades.

  • The vibration dampers mentioned previously (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1707045) work damn well to eliminate a lot of sound. I've also seen people claim that putting the printer on a concrete paver block and then putting that block on rubber feet eliminates most of the sound as well. (http://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/improvements-f14/best-usd7-buck-improvement-you-can-make-t3051.html)

  • After the vibration dampers, the hotend fan becomes the loudest thing about the printer. I ended up buying a 40mm Noctua fan and printing an adapter (https://grabcad.com/library/mk2_40mm_fan_duct-1) to mate it to the extruder assembly. Now the only thing I hear is linear bearing noise. Wiring in the noctua fan isn't plug and play though. I cut off the stock fan and crimped some dupont connectors on the leads and connected the wires that way. Soldering works too.

  • I don't care what you do, but find a new solution for a spool holder. The one prusa includes is terrible. Easiest solution is to print or use a pvc pipe to connect the two spool holder brackets. I went another route and printed a spool holder that used 608 skate bearings to make the spool holder buttery smooth. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1832235

  • The method to mount the y-axis bearing is not great. Print these out (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1819779) and switch out the zip ties when you get a chance. No rush to do these... just something to do when you want to tinker. Look up the igus drylin bearings too... a lot swear by them.

  • Also software. If you can swing the $150, I highly, highly, highly recommend simplify3d. Their slicing is second to none, and their support structures don't make a mess and require a ton of print cleanup.
u/booszhius · 1 pointr/AutoCAD

I use this feature every day. I've been using AutoCAD since release 2 on floppies, and learned to draft by hand, too. I have a deep appreciation for the multitude of tools AutoCAD offers - even if I never use them, I appreciate that they are there before someone needs them, and I might eventually use them too.

AutoCAD is like those massive Swiss Army knives. It all comes down to the task at hand, and knowing what tool is going to help you get it done that much faster and more efficiently.

This particular tool helps to eliminate the need to draw construction lines by inferring coordinates based on when you have already drawn and the direction you move your mouse.

u/Taboobat · 5 pointsr/KingdomDeath

The 3 things you need are:

  • something to cut the pieces off the sprue -- an exacto knife will work, but flush cutters are easier to work with.
  • an adhesive -- super glue works, but plastic cement is better.
  • something to remove sprue nubs/mold lines from the plastic -- an exacto knife can work again here, but I prefer needle files. Much harder to make an error than when using a knife.

    That's pretty much it. If you want to dive in really deep I have a massive post that lists other tools and touches on a lot of customization that people have done. But none of that's mandatory, you can very easily forge ahead with just the 3 tools I linked above.
u/macbooklover91 · 3 pointsr/EDC

Well heres a list of some from amazon.

u/beltfedvendetta · 0 pointsr/EDC

>Blems from the factory ( like kershawguys) are perfect for someone starting out. It allows them to see first hand the quality of work a made in the US knife is at a fraction of the cost. Most are not or can not shell out $50 for one that is new and has the warranty that is highly unlikely to be used.

You are free to believe what you want to believe and are under no obligation to agree with me or not. I do not agree. First-time buyers would be better served with having the option of warranty, I think, in case they run into any issues or concerns.

And, frankly, I don't agree with your cost savings argument either. Amazon has Kershaw Leeks brand new, non-blems, with free shipping for $40. A mere $5-15 more than the blem Leek from Kershawguy.

Now - I'd rather support Kershawguy myself. I've bought from him in the past. I'll do so again. But the option is what matters. And you base your argument on cost savings. Cost savings that aren't really there.

> Look up what KAI has for the tolerance. Every blem that goes out of the warehouse is 100% cosmetic.

Absolutely false.

From Thomas W. of KAI/Kershaw:

THG, I always cringe a bit when there are concerns/complaints and even reviews with our blems that hit market. Product that does not pass QC can land in the warehouse sale for a variety of reasons, a sticky lock being one of them. Our blems seemingly have a reputation that they only have scratch and dent issues, which is certainly not the case.

You get what you pay for, and when you get conservative on the purchase of a high dollar titanium piece and go with a 2nd, know that there potentially can be issues with the lock, action, grinds, and/or finish.

>They do not have ANY blems out of the door that are "unsafe"

Consider this: if non-blem Blurs with lock issues have made it out the door (this has been an issue in the past, regardless of whether you want to acknowledge it or not - ironically enough, TheLateBoyScout almost amputated his fingers with a blem Blur that suffered actual lock failure) despite Kershaw doing its best to make sure they were solid, you can get issues with blems.

Is it likely? No. Does it happen? Yes. And to say that they "do not have ANY" when even factory warranty knives have had lock failure problems... No. Just no. No generalization that ridiculous may stand on its own two feet and at this point you're basically straw manning my statement.

>There is a reason I linked to kershawguy. I have used him time and time again for knifes and have talked to him on a personal level more than once. It is the only place I ever recommend a blem to buy from.

This is irrelevant, because I didn't claim you recommended "to just buy a blem from anyone anywhere." A word of warning and a cautionary message to anyone that saw it was all it was. It actually wasn't directed at you at all.

u/forceofrabbit · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

This watch is a fun (for eight year olds), practical, and very affordable Christmas present. This costs more but looks pretty slick and is automatically set to atomic clocks via radio, which is pretty damn cool when you're eight.

This Leatherman is a little pricey for what it is but little boys love multi-tools, Leathermans are great multi-tools, and it comes with a pointless knife (as in, there's no sharp tip) that you install yourself, in case you don't trust your child with knives (I may or may not have a scar from using my Leatherman Micra in a really stupid way when I was 10) or your kid will definitely take it everywhere, including their school which has a zero-tolerance/thought policy on pointy objects. (If you have no problems with knives, the Squirt would be my first choice for a mini-multitool.)

This book is pricey for a single book but I had the old version as a kid and it's still one of my all time favorite books. Highly recommend, for a kid interested in technology.

u/amaraNT2oo2 · 7 pointsr/EngineeringStudents

Nice - you'll be glad to have that variety of tips, depending on what you are working on! If you have any spare Christmas money, I'd recommend picking up one of these self-adjusting wire strippers - it sort of matches your color scheme too! And if you do a lot of de-soldering (anything with lots of headers or through-hole IC sockets), a desoldering iron can save a ton of time compared to your solder wick and desoldering pump.

A few other things that I've found useful (mostly repairing electronic keyboards / synthesizers, although I'm hoping to get more into Arduino / Pi soon):

Hakko wire cutter

Helping hand

Hemostat / Forceps

Digital multimeter with audible continuity tester

u/king_human · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Hi! And welcome!

The Buck Bantam is a fine knife. It is a very good value and will serve you well, I think.

I also agree with the suggestions for the Ontario RAT 1 or 2. The RAT is a spectacular knife value and should do everything you need it to do. And it opens like a greased rocket.

u/optional_downvote · 2 pointsr/knives

If you like kershaw you can get a blur with S30v steel for around 65$ on amazon if you still want a kershaw. I've never been too impresed with them since I find their build quality to be lacking. They seem to have an excessive amount of blade play and use average quality steels in most of their knives. The a premium steel that can hold a razor sharp working edge. The spyderco delica/endura line is also a great knife. They have full flat ground blades that come razor sharp from the factory with absolutlely no blade play. I personally carry a green delica as one of my edc knives. The dragonfly is also great if you want a knife that dissapears on your person. it is a featherweight knife, that cuts and handles like a much larger knife.

If you are looking for a knife that can take an absolutely harsh beating, I would have to reccomend an Ontario RAT 1 or 2 depending on you size preference. They are a bit heavy in hand compared to other knives it size, but perform just as good as any of my spydercos. It is also on the cheaper side at around 25$.

The benchmades are also a good choice, but I would also reccomend the benchmade mini-presidio.

Anyways, I thought I might as well just post some links to them:

S30v Kershaw Blur

Benchmade Mini Presidio

[Benchmade Griptillian] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9BOF0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2Q6YQ3PL1NNYW&coliid=I1IO3PSF8569TW)

Benchmade Mini Griptillian (I prefer thumb hole openers, but both griptillians also are offered with combo edges and thumb studs.)

Spyderco Dragonfly

Spyderco Delica

Spyderco Endura

Ontario RAT 1

Ontario RAT 2

u/abakedcarrot · 5 pointsr/chefknives

For $120 and two knives, there is the omnipresent starter option - the Tojiro DP line.

I'd start with the gyuto or the santoku. They overlap for the larger tasks and its really more preference on the shape. They both are too thin and the steel is too brittle to cut bones or hard vegetables (pumpkin/squash) with (which your Wusthof can take care of) but will go through veg and protein pretty easily.

Then you have budget left over for the petty, which is kind of like a long thin paring knife. Good for smaller tasks or things that need delicate tip work.

you might even have some budget left over to pick up a stone. This is a popular beginner option.

Edit: The other option is MAC knives. Same shapes apply

u/Brutally-Honest- · 4 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I would recommend a diamond stone over a traditional waterstone. They cost more money, but they cut faster, don't require water, are less messy and they never have to be flattened like waterstones.

DMT is a very good brand and comes in many different sizes and grits. I own this one and it makes for a very good general purpose sharpening stone.. It's double sided with coarse and fine sides. Unless you're sharpening knives daily it should last decades, if not the rest of your life.

If you're on a tighter budget I would recommend this traditional waterstone. It's basically the traditional version of the diamond stone I linked. This is the stone I started out with, but I hardly use if anymore after getting my DMT.

u/dothestew · 19 pointsr/Nexus6P

This has been brought up pretty often on this subreddit, and I feel like there is a division between two main theories on the problem:

  • It's a software glitch / bad reporting / excessive app or system use.
  • It's a hardware malfunction.

    I was in the same situation (very similar screenshot) and was told by a Google representative after a few e-mails back and forth that I was out of my warranty period. I finally got fed up with it enough that I bought a new battery and replaced it a few days ago. As others who have also replaced their batteries have said, it truly is like having a brand new phone. I highly recommend it, though the process is a pain in the ass. Being concerned anytime the phone is below 60% battery is no way to live, especially when it drops to that point so quickly after being taken off charge.

    Battery - $8.99 Amazon Prime; comes with opening tools but does not include a precision knife.

    Replacement back glass camera cover - $7.99 Amazon Prime; because the battery did not come with precision knives and I am not a patient man, so I clearly broke the glass.

    Precision knife - $3.58 add-on item; plan ahead. Don't be like me.

    Heat gun - $19.97 Amazon Prime; you can use a hair dryer but this is a ton easier.

    Tutorial

    If you decide to go ahead with it, best of luck.
u/A_Texan_Redditor · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Hey OP depending on how much cash you got/What you want to make I can recommend you get this router here.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1484624879&sr=1-1&keywords=bosch+router

It has sufficient power to handle most bits and has a super convenient height adjustment that can be used over the table with a hex key. It also comes with two bases (plunge and fixed) so you can just yank it out whenever you need it and not have to unscrew it.

Now if you want something that will handle anything you throw at it you can get one of those 3 1/4 HP monsters which will handle every massive 3 1/2 inch raised panel bits with ease.

Some good routers are:

https://www.amazon.com/Triton-TRA001-Precision-Plunge-Router/dp/B00779ND0Q/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1484625229&sr=1-4&keywords=triton+router

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7518-Speedmatic-5-Speed-Router/dp/B0000222V3/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1484625371&sr=1-1&keywords=porter+cable+3+hp

OR if you got the cash you can buy Festools best router:

https://www.amazon.com/Festool-574354-EB-Router-2200-Watts/dp/B0079XHISS/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1484625654&sr=1-2&keywords=festool+router

As far as insert plates are concerned Kreg makes the for several routers our you can get them from the manufactures of the router themselves.

u/doubleplusunsigned · 4 pointsr/metalworking

First of all, thanks for sharing the video. I think metal casting is really interesting, and it's great to see how different people approach it.

> It's ok to be brutal.

Alright -

I really hate the music you used.

I'm also not a big fan of videos where that show the entire process at 10x playback (or whatever speed) - to me that indicates that you're showing too much. When I see videos like this, I click through around the timeline to find the interesting parts. Show the critical parts at regular speed and cut out the extra bits. Tell me (or show me) why something is a critical step.

Increase your lighting for better video. Do you have some work lights? Get two of them as close as possible to what you're working on at different angles and try filming like that (the closer you have a light source to a subject, the more even it appears. Far away lights appear as "points"). Set the white balance on your camera to account for the color temperature of the lights. Or if you have any kind of desk lamp, try pointing it at whatever you're filming. You'll have to experiment with what looks best with what you've got.

During the wax carving section, a huge portion of the frame felt wasted. You could have gotten much tighter on the actual carving, which would have drawn me in more than looking at a 90% static shot. Again, slowing down here and showing why you make certain carving decisions would have been more interesting. For instance, why did you carve out the middle then re-fill it? I had no idea what was going on there.

I felt bad for the clippers you used to get the wax out of the can. They look like flush cut electronics clippers, which usually say something like "For Copper Only". This indicates that using them on harder metal (like a can) will damage the cutting surface. But they're your tools.

From a PPE perspective, I would strongly consider wearing leather boots while pouring molten metal. But I can be clumsy at inopportune times and I like my toes.

u/CorrectionCompulsion · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

You should pick up a few high value knives for the money. Here are a few that are worth way more than their price tag:

Mora Companion - this blade is incredibly useful for camp tasks and bushcraft projects, very strong even though it's not full tang (I've never heard of one breaking).

Ontario RAT Model 1 - This is one of the best folders I've used, at any price. For $26 you won't find a better knife.

Utilitac 2 - This knife comes in a ton of different styles, made by Ontario like the RAT, and of equally high quality. These knives are built like tanks, and can take abuse.

Schrade SCHF9 - Unlike the Mora, this knife is a huge chunk of steel. I doubt you could break it with a hammer to be honest, so if you're tastes run towards the bigger camp knife, this is it.

u/saturday186 · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Dandelion and burdock !!!
.

All of them are pretty hilarious but the first one on the second page shows the true qualities of this giant swiss army knife. Then just read the short one after that.

.
.
.

Also since nike foams were a pretty big thing back home, these reviews made me bust out laughing.

u/sobrique · 5 pointsr/sysadmin

Whiskey is absolutely not too boring. :)

Otherwise:

u/ThatGuyWhoSaysSame · 3 pointsr/Chefit

Thanks for the response!

I know cheaper knives can last a long time and it isn't necessary to spend so much (especially when you aren't working in a restaurant). It's something I really enjoy and have a strong interest in though! I was looking at wet-stones like this, but if that isn't the right style would love the feedback!

Thank you for the links as well!

EDIT: Formatting error

u/ssskuda · 1 pointr/knives

I'm a big fan of the Ontario Knife Co. RAT-1, OP.

https://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E

The build quality is pretty good, the blade is easy to maintain, and the handle is easy to grip, which is a gripe I have against the Cryo (I have one and love it) since my hands are wide.