Reddit mentions: The best power tool parts & accessories

For starters, what condition are the miniatures in? Are they packaged still? Assembled but not painted? Are they painted already? Depending on where they're at will determine what you need to do first, so let's assume the worst and go on to the better.

If a figure is already assembled, you'll want to disassemble it. The best way to get the glue off in my experience is to soak the figure over night in acetone. When you pull it out, the glue should be easy to get off. You can generally find acetone in large volumes at hardware stores in the paint section. You can store the acetone and figures in a glass jar or any plastic container that has the recycling logo on it with a number 5 in it and PP underneath it.

If a figure is already painted, you'll then need to get the paint off, without damaging the figures. The best way I've found to do this is with Purple Power, which you can generally find at automotive stores: http://www.clean-rite.com/purplepower_industrial_strength_cleaner_degreaser.html. You can use the same type of container for this as the one mentioned above. Let the figures soak for a day or so, and use a junk toothbrush to get any leftover paint off.

Now that you've got the figures cleaned, you need to prime them. You don't need anything special for this, as long as it's good for metal, however, I recommend a spray on primer. My personal preference is Krylon's general purpose primer, and I prefer gray as opposed to white. You can usually get this in the same place you get your acetone, or you can get it at a hobby shop. http://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Stencils-Craft-Paints/Spray-Paint/Gray-Krylon-Indoor/Outdoor-Spray-Primer/p/1357

The next step is to get the rest of your supplies:

Super Glue: Can't put minis together without glue! I just use a bottle of Gorilla Super Glue. http://www.gorillatough.com/gorilla-super-glue

Painting palette: My preference is to use a wet palette for painting but there's definitely a benefit for having a dry palette available as well. Here's a link to a video on making a wet palette and the benefits of it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FmxJdZdKdc. In here, they use one from a manufacturer, and it's nice because it's easily closed, but you can just as easily and super cheap with a plastic plate (dollar store), and using a paper towel instead of a sponge. Just cut the paper towel to size, soak it, have a little extra water in there and put the parchment paper down, then add more water. This is what I personally do, and just stick it in the fridge when I'm not using it. If you have an option to make one that you can put a cover on though, that'd be best. For a dry palette, you can just get something like a ceramic tile from the hardware store for like, a dollar or less, and it's super easy to clean.

Brushes: You probably don't want/need to spend a lot on brushes, especially starting out. I'd recommend a few cheap brushes, generally you want the brush sizes to probably be between 20/0 to 2, and also get a small flat brush, preferably with a cat's tongue tip, but it's not necessary, as long as it's flat. It'll be very useful for dry brushing. My recommendation would probably be to get a variety of brushes from Atlas Brush Company: http://www.atlasbrush.com/brush-sets. I'd recommend Style 255-3PS, Style 55, and Style 58A. When your brushes start getting hard to work with, you can usually stick the tips in boiling water for a bit to get them back to shape.

Paints, Washes and Varnish: A lot of people prefer either Vallejo paints or Citadel paints by Games Workshop. My preference, especially since I use a wet palette, is to use Vallejo, though I use some Games Workshop paint as well.

In addition to this, you'll probably want some washes. I don't actually have experience with Vallejo washes - I've only used Games Workshop, but I prefer the washes in the type of container that Citadel uses as opposed to droppers, since I apply them direct from the container. I'd recommend at least Nuln Oil from them if you go with Citadel Games, though I'm sure a black wash from Vallejo is perfectly fine.

Citadel also has Dry paints, which are supposed to be good for dry brushing, but I've not had any experience with them. They may be a good idea for you as a beginner, since you'll probably not have very good technique when you first try to dry brush (I found myself, and still do a lot of times, using too much paint). You can usually find these paints at hobby stores, but at the worst case, you can pick them up cheap on eBay. There are sellers on eBay that have pick-your-selection listings, just search Vallejo Pick and you'll have results.

You'll also want a varnish to seal your piece when you're done. I prefer to use two coats - the first one glossy, then the second one matte.

I recommend you get at least the following: White, Black, Red, Blue, Yellow, Green, Brown, Silver, Matt Varnish, Gloss Varnish, Black Wash

Flocking and Turf: Far from necessary, but if you want to make your bases have that grassy look to them, you'll need this. I use Coarse Turf - Yellow Grass, and then just soak it in the appropriate watered down paint, dry it out, and glue it on with Elmer's Glue. This stuff is generally available at hobby stores. http://www.sceneryexpress.com/YELLOW-GRASS-COARSE-TURF/productinfo/WD0061/

Antennas: A lot of BattleTech minis, especially older ones, should have antennas on them. If you have loose figures, the odds are they have been lost and you'll need to replace them. I've found staples work very well for this. If they're still in the package, you'll see a thin metal piece in there that looks like mechanical pencil lead; you'll just need to cut it to size for your mini. Additionally, these are pretty fragile once you glue them onto the mini unless you put a hole in the mini for it to go in. The best thing for this is to use a Pin Vise and drill bits http://www.amazon.com/CML-Supply-Micro-Drill-Chuck/dp/B001RJE3X8. However, I've gotten by just fine using a safety pin and thumb tack.

Files and razor blades: You may need some files and razor blades to get rid of flash (pieces of metal from the vent holes in the mold that may be attached to the figure still) and seam lines. http://www.amazon.com/ELMERS-X-Acto-Knife-Silver-X3602/dp/B000V1QV7O. Personally, I've gotten by with just the piece on my nail clippers that's there to clean and file your nails with.

Water dish: You'll need something to put your paint water in. I use 3 dishes: One for clean water, one for paint water, and one with water and dish soap in it.

Mini stand: You'll generally want to have something to put your mini on while you work with it. If you don't, you'll end up rubbing the paint and primer off of it while you hold it to turn it while you paint. This can be just about anything. My preference is to use something about the diameter of a hex that's a couple inches tall and use Velcro.

Now, you need to figure out what the hell you're doing with all this stuff. I'm far from an expert painter, and I've learned most of my techniques watching videos. You can find a lot of information on YouTube. Here is some good stuff to start off with: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL10C32CB2CD611E84

Hopefully this helps!

EDIT: I'm not the best best painter, in fact I'm still pretty new to this myself, having painted probably just under a dozen minis myself. However, I figured that'd probably put me in a good position to answer your questions as someone who's coming from the same place you're coming. That being said, this is my most recent piece - I just finished the base and varnishing it yesterday: https://imgur.com/a/Vj6fI (Unseen Battlemaster)

hey OP, i'll try to answer a few questions for you if i can. i've got a handful of years of experience building custom cabinets, but am no doubt not the foremost on education in this field :)

working with wood is a lot different than working with steel, but it shares some common similarities, as i am sure you know already :)

in all simplicity there are 4 main components of a cabinet, i will use the following as reference in my reply:

a) the main cabinet or box.

b) the face frame

c) the back

d) any removable shelves/doors/etc



1) joinery

when building cabinets, etc i always start with the box

tools required: router, straight cut bit at T" or in this case 3/4", clamps, straight-edge, wood glue, compressor and brad nailer

most material used in cabinetry is usually 3/4" thick, so T=3/4"

once you have all your box material cut to size (there is an easier step you can do, i'll explain in a bit), you'll want to mark all side pieces at proper measurements of non-removable shelves at top of shelf - T. (this usually consist of a top and bottle, but in your multiple cases you'll have a few boxes with hard-fastened shelves in between)

the next step is cutting groves into your side panels for the non-removable shelves to set it.

set your free hand router up so it's cutting 1/2 the depth of T, in this case it will be 3/8". find out how far it is from the fence to the edge of your bit, practicing on a piece of scrap wouldn't hurt.

run the router along the fence cutting groves in each location.

you probably don't want the bottom of the cabinet to hit the floor, i always raise my bottoms so the bottom shelf is flush with the top of the face frame, so make sure to measure twice! :)

anyways once you've done this, you'll have a nice grove to fit your cross-shelves into

glue and nail accordingly.

as far as the intermediate up and down structures, such as the middle in http://i.imgur.com/TG9hwh.png?1, you don't require such groves.

ok moving right along, let's jump to face frame joining

tools required: miter saw, screw gun, pocket hole jig, wood glue, clamps

after you've got your box, you'll be ready to build your face frame

since you don't have a ton of money (who does?) to buy an expensive face frame joiner, Kreg has a nice pocket hole jig which i've used regularly for a while now. http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W

cut and rip your face frame components to size, turn over and clamp the jig, drill your pocket holes.. once this is done for the outer-frame, clamp and screw them together using wood glue and some pocket hole screws, kreg provides a few in the kit to get started, and Lowe's will well the kit and the screws you'll need to complete your project.

once you've done the outer frame, move into the inner frame, etc and rinse & repeat.

it's best to do this on a flat level surface you can clamp the two pieces down so they won't move, but don't worry if you're a fraction off from being flush and sticking up a hair, you can fill that with putty and sand down to flush later.

once you've built your face frame and cabinet boxes, you're now ready to glue and nail them together.




2) what wood to use.

a) for cabinet boxes and shelves

if you're going to stain it, you can probably find a decent price on red oak at your local lumber yard, this should range from $40 to $50 a sheet, depending on area

if you're going to paint it or just don't care if you stain it and doesn't have to look fabulous, you can use a cheaper paint-grade Birch plywood, often available from $20 to $40 per sheet and location

b) face frame wood you can use some select grade pine (usually stains and works well even with red oak plywood, of if you find it cheap enough (improbable) some red oak which is usually really pricey)

3) structure

if you groove the main non-removable shelves like i suggested, you won't have a problem.

if this unit were being mounted to the wall you could add some extra "nailers" but that won't be necessary in your situation





i think i've gone over the basic questions you've asked so far. if i've missed something and if you have any questions on anything feel free to ask so i can elaborate more.

it's a really interesting project you have and i'm sure you'll have fun with it.

once again, feel free to reply to me and i will answer as best i can :)



EDIT: oops, i forgot to mention the backs :)

when you're routing the groves in for your shelves, you'll want to provide a grove for the back material as well.
this isn'tnecessary, but it will provide a clean look when viewing the finished piece from the side, as you won't see the 1/4" back material.

a simple 3/8" grove 3/16" deep the length of the sides will suffice

when you mount the back, you can use 1" or less brad nails or a pneumatic stapler if you have one available.

and mount the back BEFORE you mount the front face, frame, as mounting the back is a sure way to square up the unit

you'll mount 1 side first, then 1 bottom to square.

> The Lathe:

Sounds like you've got this well under control.

> The Tools:

There are very split camps on tools: replaceable carbide tips vs traditional tools. Personally I think both have a place, but I do feel it's best to start with traditional tools to learn the how and why tools work the way they do. My personal opinion is always to spend the real money on good tools. They don't have to be expensive, but the right tool of the right quality (sharp, of course) will make all the difference in the world. Every try to dig a post hole with a hand trowel? :)

Also don't feel bound by just one brand or type of tool...most of us have lots of tools!

You can go with carbide-tipped tools such as Easy Wood Tools, Simple Woodturning Tools, or other brands. You can make your own for a fraction of the cost to buy.

There are a few of good entry-level HSS sets out there for about $80, such as this frequently recommended set of Benjamin's Best. I also like Hurricane brand tools which I feel are excellent entry-level HSS tools for the money. Either of those would serve you well through the learning curve and a good ways into your turning career.

If you wanted to pick just two higher-end tools, I feel Crown's Pro PM are good for the price. I own several, they're nice, but the handles are a bit short for my knuckle-dragging frame! All you really need for the projects you listed is a skew chisel and a spindle gouge.

Lastly, you could buy some of the popular "buy it for life" tools like Thompson Lathe Tools or D-Way Tools. These are widely considered the upper end of turning tools with each tool running between $55-200 (handles sold separately). Many people who get serious about their hobby end up with these tools because the harder tool steels are more durable.


> The Bench Grinder:

The Rikon 80-805 is the most common good deal for a grinder. Occasionally some other Asia-import will pop up on the scene for a little while, but the Rikon is pretty predictable about going on sale. Also, it comes with two decent wheels to get you started; not all import grinders come with decent wheels.

Eventually you might want to invest in CBN wheels to replace the frangible wheels that come on the grinder, but that's probably down the road for you.

Lots of people use that grinder, I've not heard anything outright bad about it (although some people prefer one with more HP).

> Drill Press?

A cheap drill press will get you there just fine.

The most common alternative is to purchase a 4-jaw chuck, such as the Nova G3 (which requires the appropriate insert), and also a set of pen drilling jaws and a drill chuck for the tailstock. That lets you drill blanks entirely on the lathe (and with better accuracy than a drill press IMO).

The downside is that the 4-jaw chuck, insert, jaws, and drill chuck collectively will cost damn near $200, which is a lot more than a cheap drill press. The upside is that the chuck is exactly what you will need if you decide to get deeper into turning and want to try bowls, boxes, and other things. Many of us already owned or planned to own a chuck, so the only real cost addition was the pen drilling jaws and the drill chuck.

> Pen turning attachments

• Mandrel savers are a separate purchase.
  
  
• Be warned that barrel trimmers are not universal, they come in different sizes and some pen kits use a sleeve to up-size the trimmer to fit the larger tube.
  
  
• You can use epoxy or CA glue, whichever you prefer to glue tubes. If using CA glue, make sure you buy a spray bottle of accelerator so that you can zap the ends to prevent a dripping mess!
  
  
• Any general sandpaper from a home improvement store will work fine, don't need anything fancy or expensive. Quite a few of us purchased the $40 box from Klingspor's which is enough sandpaper to last me several years.
  
  
• A P100 filter dust mask is a good investment as well for safety gear.
  
  
• FINISH: If you plan to use CA glue as your finish, you need a different viscosity (thin) than what you use to glue the tubes (thick). This means you need to buy two different bottles of CA and look into a pack of MicroMesh sanding pads for polishing the CA finish.
  
  If you plan on using something else for the finish, make sure you buy what you need.
  
  
• SAW: You need a way to cut pen blanks and trim off excess waste. If you don't own any cutting tools that are sufficient for the job, a cheap miter box will do the job just fine. Make sure you clamp the box and the blank down well before sawing!

For anyone techy, it is important to have a good set of precision tools. they may not need them all that often, but when you need to fix something, it sucks to not be able to get into it.

This is a very nice, compact, set of precision drive bits that come mounted on a driver. The torx and small phillips bits will get you into most electronic devices. Having a nice set of hex keys is also important for general uses, but torx is more common in electronics. This set is not EDC friendly on your person, but as a student, he probably has a pack they can go in.

What is his opposition to knives? Does he feel he has too many already, he just doesn't think he's interested, or is he not allowed to carry them on his person in most situations? If It's anything other than the last situation, I'd still consider the Victorinox Alox Cadet Swiss Army knife. I didn't think I'd use mine much, but I got it out of Swiss Army nostalgia and swooning over the gorgeous blue that is available now. I keep it in my jacket's breast pocket and use it on an almost daily basis, but have still yet to use the blade on it (I also carry a dedicated knife). I'm really in love with this little tool. It's beautiful. The bottle opener is great. The can opener is great. The nail tool is fantastic (my nails have never been in as good of shape as they have been the past month). And it also has a very decent blade on it.

I don't know the ins and outs of pipe restoring, but this website has all the info you'll need:

http://rebornpipes.com/

/u/Flatticus, /u/scriptonic and /u/federalmng are the best restorers I can recall on this sub (sure I'm missing others though). Hopefully one of them will see this.

The stems on quite a few pipes are heavily oxidised. The only way to fix that is by sanding them back as far as I know. There's a solution that is used to help in the process, I know it's on rebornpipes but I can't remember it (can't get the right product in Australia so I didn't make a mental note of it).

Some other good products for the stems are:

• http://www.amazon.com/MICRO-MESH-SOFT-TOUCH-SANDING/dp/B000H6EC4C (Shop around, this was just the first link I found); and
  
  
• http://www.4noggins.com/ObsidianPipeStemOil-15ml.aspx (4noggins is a great website for tobaccos and pipe maintenance equipment)
  
  A good quality polishing cloth (also available on 4noggins) will be great too, but you might have a bit of trouble polishing them up to a nice shine without using some oil or wax.
  
  Sorry I can't be of more help. Try messaging the runner of rebornpipes or the other users I mentioned. Good luck! And please post updates.

A lot of good suggestions for pens, I think the many different Chinese pens from Wing Sung and Moonman are good options, and you can price them to match what you want. I think the Moonman 80s, both standard and mini sizes, are also good options. Nib sizes are generally 0.5mm, but you can swap in Parker 45 nibs if you want, so could grab an accountant nib and put that in the Moonman for a very fine line.

Bot I think the biggest thing is to take the advice of /u/DontTakeMyNoise and read up on nib tuning. It is a simple thing that will make your fountain pen life much better. I would skip the brown paper bag though, and just get micro-mesh or a micro-mesh nail file. It just works better. For example, https://www.amazon.com/MICRO-MESH-SOFT-TOUCH-SANDING/dp/B000H6EC4C would do all the smoothing you would need, and in general, this https://www.amazon.com/Pink-Lizard-Sanding-Polishing-Bending/dp/B01ING00ZM would be all you need to finish polish a nib. Be sure if you look at nail buffers that the one you get has a 12000 grit side.

As a cheap student, you have lots of time to learn this, and it will give you more joy out of the pens you have. I would still recommend some of the others here, the Wing Sung 601, 698, the Moonman 80s are all great pens, and the Wing Sung 3008 or 3009 4 packs are amazing deals for their price. But make the ones you have work well too.

As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...

Hand Tools

1. You say you have screwdrivers, but ifs worthwhile to have a full complement of them. You might consider getting a hand tool set like this one. Also, diagonals. Can't stress that enough. Eventually, you might upgrade a lot of these, but it'll get you started.
   
   
2. Ratcheting wrenches, along these lines. Conventional wrenches are functional, but these are much more so.
   
   
3. Ratcheting hex key set. In fact, this one looks good. If you have any Ikea furniture in your future, these will be worth their weight in guld.
   
   
4. Maybe a vise. That particular vice is mid-priced, but you can find well-reviewed vises at just about any price point.
   
   
5. A good range of sand paper grits: 80, 100, 120, 150, 180. You might also pick up a sanding sponge.
   
   Power Tools
   
   
6. A Dremel
   
   
7. Maybe an electric circular saw or a jigsaw. I really don't know which I'd prioritize, but you should probably have at least one of them.
   
   
8. If there's money left over in your budget, I'd suggest a random orbit sander.
   
   
9. A drill press
   
   Also, there are fluids to consider
   
   
10. Simple Green
    
    
11. Penetrating oil
    
    
12. Wood Glue
    
    
13. Mineral Spirits
    
    
14. Linseed Oil
    
    Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.

A topic like this just came up, here's what I said then.

The Hurricane Tools are pretty decent. I've never tried carbide turning tools, but I feel that regular steel tools are just as good.

I primarily use the bowl gouge set, and then for everything else, I bought the cheap Benjamin's best 8-piece set.

For almost a year I sharpened them by hand because I really was unsure of grinding. I just have a cheap 6" grinder with stock wheels, that I always feel like it would eat up, and burn the tools. I was really tempted to buy the wolverine jig, so I tried to copy it out of wood. I replicated both of these jigs (though the one on the left is all you really need) and used some old rusty flat head screw drivers to practice the bevel. It worked surprisingly well on the screw drivers, I could even turn with them.

Sharpening the actual tools worked fantastically well, they finally "cut" for the first time, heh. Again, I thought I would burn them up, but light even pressure, and multiple passes made it super simple. It really only takes a few seconds to sharpen them, it actually takes me longer to adjust my custom jig. If you're using the same tool, and jig position, it's super easy though.

Next you'll be wanting info on chucks ;)

If it was me, I would put the bike horizontal (but make sure this is ok fluid wise, and with the manufactuerr's instruction manual), and I would use PB blaster on it for a week. And I do mean a week, and the PB Blaster brand only. I know that some may say a week is a bit long, but I have found that an extended period of time helps, as the metal expands/cools a number of days helping to draw the catalyst in.

Then I would get a dremel with this cut off wheel and use it to "notch" the head of the screw as deep as I could without hurting the surrounding metal. Then I would go to the store and find a flat head bit that will fit an impact driver, and it needs to be "impact quality" and "hardened". The impact driver needs to have a high torque..

Then, make sure that whatever bit you have fits securely in the notch you have created, use the impact wrench to break it loose, perhaps far enough that you can get the vise grips on it and finish bringing the bolt out. If you have not used an impact driver before, you should get some wood screws and a block of wood and practice so you are comfortable with it and know what to expect.

Then clean and chase the threads with the appropriate tap. And use an anti seize compound when re-installing the bolts.

I prefer this to drilling out and retapping the screw because he can get an OEM replacement bolt that will fit perfectly and not worry about the fit of a different bolt. Also, this method is actually less laborious (in my opinion) and he can always drill out and re-tap the screw if this does not work (but chances are good that it will).

I think the welding suggestion would work also, but OP may not have a welder. And if the OP wanted, he could use a regular heat gun on it a number of times (with the PB blaster) to expand and help crack the corrosion.

I'll grab a couple of these that I've learned in the past several months, as I'm also quite new here.

1. Sweet tool called a pin-vice (That one's pretty expensive, shop around). As for magnets, I'm using 2mm diameter, roughly 1mm thick round magnets from I dunno, I googled 2mm round magnet. Bought like 200 of them for something like $10.
   
   
2. If you paint super thin, like one of my favorite twitch streamers, Slowfuse you can just paint right over your mess-up with no problems. If you really really want to strip it, many people use simple-green for plastic models. I don't remember what to use for resin models.
   
   
3. Slowfuse paints practically with the wash-cup water lol. As long as you unload most of the watery paint onto, say your thumb, you will have amazing results with super thin paint. You'll end up doing lots of layers, probably even more than Duncan! You've applied enough coats when the color is as visible as you need for the situation. Sometimes you can use just a coat or two, for tinting the color you put on first, or other times you can keep going until the current color is solid.
   
   
4. Super small brush, very thin paint, multiple layer, steady hand. Sometimes you can clean up a line of paint that went wide with whatever color you mistakenly covered.
   
   I'm going to stop there and hope others will finish the rest and also give their own answers to the first 4, since, as I mentioned, I'm new myself!

Hard to say for sure without knowing his shop, so you'd probably want to try to scope out any recommendations for specific stuff to see if he already has something similar before you buy.

A good suggestion that I think always works well for any budget is to go to a local hardwood dealer and just pick out a selection of interesting exotic lumber, any woodworker will always appreciate getting cool woods to use in their projects.

If you want to have some ideas for stocking stuffers / tools though I'll list some cool things that I think are not super common that I enjoy owning or make my life easier.

Tiny-T Pocket rule

6" precision t rule

A really nice miter gauge

Router setup bars

A nice marking knife

Marking gauge

Magports

Tapeboss

Grr-ripper

Dozuki & Ryoba

Alexa (Alexa, what is 5 and 3/8 times 16... Alexa set reminder for 30 minutes to spray the second coat... Alexa order shop towels... etc, it's actually really useful, and it plays music too)

Shop apron

Quick sanding strips

Digital Angle Gauge

Digital Height Gauge

Anything from Woodpeckers is pretty much guaranteed to be great, albeit kinda pricey

Your bag may or may not be EDC by definition but here is a quick pack outline.

Bag: Vertx EDC Gamut
This is a CCW oriented bag, search LoadedPocketz and Youtube for reviews and the bag in action. There's a ton of organization in it for carrying lots of stuff, plus it's loaded with Velcro so you can either use Velcro add-on's or use their Tactigami to convert anything Molle to attach to their velcro.
Organizers - The Gamut is great but you might want to throw in something like a Maxpedition EDC/Beefy/Fatty to organize tools and supplies as needed, plus you can take them out of the bag if you want to be more mobile. E.G. leave bag in car but take IT toolkit with you to a site.

Tools:

• Wiha ESD safe bit screwdriver
  
• Leatherman - any one with the bit driver piece, (Charge/Skeletool etc) be sure to get the bit driver extension and bit sets. I use a Charge TTI with Nylon Sheath as that's the only one that fits everything together.
  
• Klein Full Size Multi-Bit For when you need a full size screwdriver, you can use your own bits for customization.
  
• Fenix PD22
  Small light with multiple settings you so can use low settings for close up work with minimal reflection, or full brightness for other uses. Lots of lights will work for this purpose, headlamps work even better for hands-free but you'll look like a dork.
  
• USB Battery - Anything Anker branded that fits your power requirements, I use their 16,000mah battery as it fits in my Gamut perfectly.
  
• Zip-ties
  
• Tape measure - whatever size works for your needs
  
• Electrical tape and/or small rolls of duct tape
  
• Pen - Fisher Space Pen
  
• Small notebook - Field Notes or similar
  
• Portable USB Cables- Kero and Griffin make small USB cables for charge and sync like this
  
• Cleaning wipe, wet naps microfiber towel - nothing worse than touching a gross computer, give it a wipe down first, then clean and dry your hands anywhere with wet naps and the microfiber.
  
• Screen cleaner wipes
  
• Small med pack - make your own but a few bandaids and Neosporin will fix any small cut you'll get from opening a computer or server. Tylenol, allergy meds, tums, anything like that.
  
  Then you have the EDC items you'll hear most people say:
  
• Water bottle
  
• Bandana
  
• Pocket tools - e.g folding knife/keychain light/keysmart/Leatherman Micra/Juice
  
• Bigger med kits
  
  

The easy but expensive way is to use a bracket like this. Expensive not only because you have to buy one for each joint, but it also doubles the number of fasteners you need. And since you're being wise and using stainless steel fasteners only on your cedar fence, that cost adds up.

Cheaper would be to drill pocket holes into the end of each rail. Put the pocket holes in the face side that will be covered up by the pickets. This does two things: the pocket screw is angled into the meat of the post rather than the side and here you can get away with using cheaper coated screws because they'll be somewhat protected by the picket and if they do bleed, the picket will be in front anyway. Plus it's a much cleaner look.

I like the Kreg K3 for basic homeowner tasks. It's especially great for this because it's easy to move it to the long rails. Pair it with a cheap face clamp and you're set. Throw a little polyurethane construction adhesive in the joint (mostly to keep the water out).

This is how I built my fence. 3 years later and the rails are as tight as ever. I have every confidence that they'll make it to 15 years just fine. Or, rather, if something breaks on this fence, it won't be the rails.

DANGEROUS POPPER RECIPE!!!!!!!!!!!!!BEWARE!!!!!!THIS IS THE BOMB!!!!!!!!!

Cute title for this post huh?

Best thing about it? My hands are not shaking as much and I just put the poppers down. God, I adore these Isobutyl pops!

OK, let's get serious. As promised here's Popp-peeeeeeeeeeee Pig! Sorry, I digress and am still a lot spacey.

I will need to tweak this recipe because it is so very potent. You confirmed addicts will fall in love with this. It does have an acidic start to the huff. I should add more acid, me thinks. Will try for the next batch. I will tweak and report but not soon. This batch will last at least 4 days if tonight is any indication.

So let's start: If you do not know JimOakey's set up please go find it and do as it says. I re-posted it here: https://www.reddit.com/r/popperpigs/comments/3k1i6j/adventures_in_popper_production/
Those who do; I will give enough details so you will not need to review the posts.

1. You will place 1 tablespoon of nitrite in a small, clean mason jar.
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L74HO5M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
   
   
2. Add 2 ounces of distilled water.
   
   
3. Add 2 ounces of Isobutyl alcohol. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009S08MB2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
   
   
4. Mix for 10 minutes. Usually for isoproply I mix until the liquid is clear, usually takes about 30 seconds for isoproply, but I got frustrated waiting so allowed 10 minutes then said, 4 get it. Take it as it is.
   JimOakey uses a portable drill press for mixing. He puts a hand drill in it and places the "J" corner cut from a plastic hanger inserted into the drill as a mixing tool. Take a plastic hanger, turn it upright. See the top and bottom corners look like a J ? Just cut out that J and force it into a hand drill bit slot. So that the little up turn of the J is at the bottom and is the portion that does the mixing - is in the blend. http://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452057063&sr=8-1&keywords=portable+drill+press
   
   Step 5) After 10 minutes allow the mixing to continue. Add 1 ounce of battery acid. Add slowly. I added it slowly over a 4 minute duration. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-battery-acid-cycle-acid/2030000-P?searchTerm=battery+acid
   
   
   
5. Continue mixing while you wash out your acid pour cup.
   
   
6. Turn off the drill and remove the blend. Allow the popper to rise to the top - about 2 minutes. Drew off the popper with an eye dropper. Put in a plastic container like this:https://images.search.yahoo.com/images/view;_ylt=AwrB8qAYo4xW_WUAdiMunIlQ;_ylu=X3oDMTIzdWtmaWIxBHNlYwNzcgRzbGsDaW1nBG9pZAMzMTBmNWZjMzU4NDAwY2Q1ZGM4NWE1YjRjMzQ2YzE0NgRncG9zAzIwBGl0A2Jpbmc-?.origin=&back=https%3A%2F%2Fimages.search.yahoo.com%2Fyhs%2Fsearch%3Fp%3Dplastic%2Bbottles%26fr%3Dyhs-mozilla-001%26fr2%3Dpiv-web%26hsimp%3Dyhs-001%26hspart%3Dmozilla%26tab%3Dorganic%26ri%3D20&w=500&h=500&imgurl=cdnll.freundcontainer.com%2Fimages%2F500%2F3390B01NAT-Condiment-Bottles.jpg&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.freundcontainer.com%2Fplastic-condiment-bottles-ldpe%2Fp%2Fv3390B01NAT%2F&size=11.9KB&name=%3Cb%3EPlastic%3C%2Fb%3E+Condiment+%3Cb%3EBottles%3C%2Fb%3E+-+LDPE&p=plastic+bottles&oid=310f5fc358400cd5dc85a5b4c346c146&fr2=piv-web&fr=yhs-mozilla-001&tt=%3Cb%3EPlastic%3C%2Fb%3E+Condiment+%3Cb%3EBottles%3C%2Fb%3E+-+LDPE&b=0&ni=21&no=20&ts=&tab=organic&sigr=12cmkin1v&sigb=14a3rnv76&sigi=125l9qmk1&sigt=11eiodf26&sign=11eiodf26&.crumb=pIsY04NLJw4&fr=yhs-mozilla-001&fr2=piv-web&hsimp=yhs-001&hspart=mozilla
   
   
   I paint my container black and keep in a room temp, dark corner of my office.
   
   
   I drew 23 ml from this batch, but tossed the rest - about 1 ml.
   
   
7. Wash out your mason jar and eye dropper.
   
   
8. Allow about 6 hours to cure.
   
   
9. Get fucked up.

It's not a standard screwdriver, you'll need a torx TR9 security screwdriver I believe, they are cheap. I have heard of people using small flat heads and having success but for best and easiest results get the torx. I clean my PS4 every 6 months it's a launch day console and still pretty quiet.

I bought this set for 15 bucks a few years ago love it comes in handy for electronics and small screws Amazon link.

Not really, and not becuase I think they are all crud, but because I never watched any. I just sort of hopped in. Best advice I can think of is

1. Make sure your magnets are the right fit, not too small and not too big. Those little 1x1x1mm cubes are cool, but weak compared to the 1/16inch magnets. These are what I buy for most everything I also have the little cubes, but only for magnetizing tiny stuff like combi weapons. My LGS sells magnets/drill bit kits from P3 I think.
   
   
2. Make sure your polarity matches. Some people will mark one side of all the magnets, others don't. I have some dummy marines who are magnetized.
   
   
3. Check the depth of the hole before you place the magnet in. Nothing sucks more than a glued magnet that isn't quite in all the way.
   
   I would start with a hand drill unless you have the know how and money for a dremel. I use a flex detachment, but I also have a decent chunk of dremel bits, like a really tiny buzz saw, which is AMAZING.

You can't rent a pocket hole jig, but they run about $20 for the cheapest one. You'll also need to get a locking clamp situation, and you can get some ideas on clamps here. The one Kreg hocks is most ideal, and it runs around $30.

I don't know if Home Depot rents circular saws, but you can check. Considering that their rental tools are always beat to crap, you may be better off getting the cheapest Ryobi they offer, which is about $40.

I know this flies in the face of this subreddit, but if your goal is to have something like that stand for pretty cheap, I'd just buy the stand you posted or get something similar you like from Ikea. There's an entry level cost to building anything. I know, it sucks. You can fit this whole design onto a half sheet of MDF, the sides and top just won't be as thick, and it will run you around $19. But I'd still get a full sheet so you can make that circular saw jig. I'll tell you, though, that making a piece of stable furniture out of MDF is going to be a task in and of itself since it's basically a big sheet of compressed and glued sawdust.

You're better off doing it with plywood and screws, and there's a cost to be had with the screws and whatever paint you use.

Hopefully that helps! Maybe! Possibly!

I’m by no means an experienced picker (<1 yr), but I think the night school set is probably a solid deal. I had watched a lot of these guys, LPL, & BB pick before I got started, plus had read some of the literature out there on the subject.

The night school will get you started, but I’d probably add some pry bars in .040 & .050 and a worm rake to get started. I actually recommended it to my younger brother recently. I think sparrows makes pretty good gear for a reasonable price. Just make sure to budget for some real locks too—the belt list is a handy reference—Master to start with, then Brinks & Abus would be a good bet (it’s exactly how I started).

Vise is a Panavise 350 but it can wait if you’re on a budget. It will be nice once you start picking cylinders, or padlocks with serrated pins (Paclock & American).

Hope that helps!

I have it. The bit sucks. It'll make a hole but it won't be very clean. The jig mechanism is alright but is not as intuitive to set up like the kreg. The screws it comes with are Philips head instead of the typical Robertson. Not that it matters much since you will run out of the ones you need pretty quickly.

In all reality most of my pocket holes are made in 3/4 or 1-1/2 inch material and ive found myself using my kreg mini instead of breaking out the whole jig. Clamp it down, and go to town. It comes with a way sharper bit also. I never use the HF bit anymore even if I'm using the HF jig.

If youve never used the Kreg jig before then I'd say go for HF and save some cash. Id recommend shelling out 10 bucks for a Kreg bit though. So you're slowly creeping up on that higher price.

If you know what you'll be missing then spring for the Kreg. Like I said, 99% of the time I'll just use the mini since it is super simple to set up and get a move on with the project.


Edit: a good middle ground is the kreg R3. My dad has it and it is a sweet little unit!

Seriously, replace them for your boat kit. There's a lot of overlap with rock climbing, and any safe climber will tell you that exhausted gear like this should be retired from your active kit because someone might inadvertently use it.

I know the situations where you'll need a 23kN carabiner on the river are vanishingly small, but you don't want to risk it. Corrosion is insidious, too, and you might not be able to tell how much strength has been lost by visual inspection. If you've got a biner on the river or crag, it should be able to be used for all original purposes (even if it's marked) so that you don't accidentally use a bad biner in a critical situation.

If you're going for non-survival use, PB Blaster is insanely useful, as any mechanic working on cars in cold-weather climates can tell you.

Conceivably, if you're a dab hand with a blowtorch, heat and vicegrips could get the job done, but you really, really, really can't use them for anything safety related if you do that.

Read up on freeing stuck bolts on cars; I think it's your best bet. Don't use those biners in your gearbag, though.

I'm thinking it's doable for around $1,000. Thanks for asking /r/ZeosPantera!

----

What about using basically a karaoke system? Would that work for my needs? It's not going to be the high quality kind of thing you guys normally talk about here, but it may fit what we want.

If so, the best seem to be the Roland B-55 (Amazon link) or the Hisonic PA-687S. They only support two wireless mics at a time, but I could probably make that work. The key reason why I like them is because they support line out. Which I could then plug into a computer via an adapter (like the Behringer UFO202 Audio Interface). I honestly don't know if this would actually work though.

Could I use a mic/amp and audio interface setup like this as audio for software like Skype? I just don't want to spend this much money and find it doesn't work.

^Edit: ^Added ^the ^second ^amp/speaker ^option

The Schitt Mani RF Interference issue does seem to exist, however it may be a minor amount of incidences. It will be interesting to know Schitts reply if you get one.

The Fluance PA10 was just released a few days ago, so no reviews yet. Their stuff is good and I don't see why the preamp wouldn't be. They have 30 day returns and shipping is free both ways so you may as well try it.

Don't bother replacing the DJPREII with the GOgroove. They are both geared towards the entry level DJ pro audio market, not the budget audiophile for home audio. Sure they work ok, but for $20 to $30 more get something that should be better for the RT82. The OM10 is a good cart, it is the previous generation to the 2M Red. Besides the Fluance PA10, you can get a used U-turn Pluto for $70 from the reputable AudioAdvice.com through Amazon. Mine arrived in the original box and looks and works as good as new.

A super low budget phono stage/preamp with a headphone jack is the Behringer U-Phono UFO202 Audiophile USB/Audio Interface with Built-in Phono Preamp $30. It will also allow you to record vinyl to computer via USB. Probably not very good, but it will work as a very temporary setup until you get a better $70+ phono preamp and $100+ headphone amp.

Another option for a headphone amp is an AMP and DAC (for your computer) combo. [z]GUIDE[s] \\\ DAC & AMP COMBOS Starting at $40.

Some other low budget headphone amps:

• Lowest budget option: $25, Behringer Microamp HA400 Ultra-Compact 4-Channel Stereo Headphone Amplifier.
  
• Sabaj Audio PHA2 Portable Headphone Amplifier Black Color $60.
  
• Monoprice Desktop Headphone Amplifier $80.

Wow! Thanks for an awesome reply. Unfortunately I'm not in a position where I can spend much money so I'll have to see if I can find some flea markets near me to buy some stuff at. All this stuff is great info that I need to look at better when I have time where I don't need to be asleep. But while I'm here I want to ask you one thing: What do you think of the Kreg jig? I'm using it to hold on the back of some floating nightstands and also used it heavily on my desk, although on my desk they aren't really load bearing whereas on the nightstands all the weight is going through that backplate first.


Thanks again for the awesome reply :)

It may need cleaning, or if it’s a pro and has reflective surfaces enabled (I think that’s the setting) or other Pro settings turned on it can add some more strain initially loading things in.

Mine was doing the same, clleaning out the PS4 of all the dust helped tremendously. It still gets somewhat loud, but not nearly so bad, with the Pro settings enabled at first, but then dies down.

To clean it you need some tools. These are what I used. ORIA Screwdriver Set, Magnetic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E16J6RQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Also I really recommend not just stopping at cleaning the fan, but getting all the way down to the heat sink. That can get clogged really badly with dust. I never thought about it until my PS4 kept shutting off due to overheating when playing God of War and the new Spider-Man. Once I got the heat sink cleaned I saw a ton of improvement and it stopped shutting down. Now I just make sure to clean it every 4-6 months and keep the side vents well dusted every week.

Hope that helps. :)

I guess it would be the Penetrating Catalyst. Down in the corner of the front it will have "Part No. 16 PB" http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E. This stuff has worked wonders on my Clipper and it didn't take much. I was told and highly recommend that you should do this outside in a place where is plenty of ventilation. I carefully removed all the screws from the covers and replaced them in the chassis so I wouldn't get mixed up later (I tend to lose things). Following mrtopcons warning I wrapped the platen several times with aluminum foil as a mask. I placed a pair of old jeans on the floor of my garage to soak the oily runoff. I worked near the door. I sprayed and worked each type bar free, being careful to protect the platen. After I freed all the bars I let it sit 'til evening and carefully blew out any excess penetrant with air and then wiped off the rest. I let it air out for a few days on my patio table in the morning and back into the garage at night (also to double check the bars). I never had to respray it after the first day. After about 4 days of airing out I brought it inside, reassembled it and now I love my "new" Smith-Corona! This product is fantastic. I just got a '40 Royal KMM last week whose bars were completely immobilized by years of rust (dog hair and God knows what else). I vacuumed it out http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BSJCLY/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and took it outside to the garage. Within 15 minutes of spraying and patiently working each key (respraying when necessary) I got all the type bars COMPLETELY freed up. I was amazed. Good luck and let me know how it goes!

You really don't have a lot of choice in order to support a desk that tall, the leg joints will have to be the strongest part of the desk. L Brackets won't work.

You don't need fancy joints, but you do need strong ones and you will need bracing on the legs. You could get a Pocket hole jig like this This allows you to join to panels fairly easy and strong (use glue also).

You could build a desk like this without the drawer only using the pocket joints.

Yes! Do it. I was riding that high for days drilling holes in everything. I know for a fact my boyfriend is hiding mugs and glasses from me but cant prove anything yet.
I bought a big glass fishbowl, drilled a hole and put my fern in it.
You can drill holes in the rims of pots and hang them with twine and s hooks. I’m still realizing the full potential.

For reference, I bought a $40 black and decker hand drill and these drill bits:
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00823A-Diamond-Drill-Piece/dp/B00ODSS5NO

I start the drill out on full blast with barely any pressure and then apply greater pressure gradually. Always keep water on it as others mentioned. Hope that’s helpful and good luck :)

Sure thing! I’m happy to help! Of course, these are my opinions and experience. Some say “learn to freehand sharpen!” But that’s rough starting out and takes a long time depending if you have a knack for it. It’s easy to do well for 10 minutes, then screw up for 10 seconds and nullify all the progress you’d made. Stropping has made me get a little better feel for what freehanding would be like. When you strop, you want to be at a little less than the angle of the edge. Too shallow and you’re not honing the apex. Too steep and you’re rounding off the apex. Strop away not towards the edge, but to find the right angle see where the edge starts to bite the leather and decrease the angle a bit - that’s the right angle.

Yeah, I’d say either get that $5 oil I linked or just use the KPL. I agree about food - as long as you’re not over applying the oil, it’ll probably never get near or into the food.

If you get a strop and a lanksy turnbox, you’d be $35-40 invested and could go a long way.

Oh, and you also need a screwdriver kit if you don’t have one - more specifically, torque bits. Nick shabazz’s teardown videos have helped me many times. I really like this one for the price:
ORIA Precision Screwdriver Kit, 60 in 1 with 56 Bits Screwdriver Set, Magnetic Driver Kit with Flexible Shaft, Extension Rod for Mobile Phone, Smartphone, Game Console, Tablet, PC, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pEjlDbHEPSHKV

Super awesome mini! I still have my Deathguard guys to paint so I'm going to save the picture for reference use;)

A little tip for improvement maybe: Get one of those tiny hand drills with tiny drillbits and gift it to your husband. He can drill a little barrel into the front of the gun which looks even more amazing ;)

Edit:I just checked. It is called a Pin Vice

I daily carry a GORUCK GR1. I chose this pack because of how ridiculously overbuilt it is. Prior to getting the GR1, I carried less and I generally still couldn't go more than 6 months at best without ripping or destroying my packs. I also like that it doesn't have much built in organization. I prefer to create my own organizational system rather than use the one mandated by the pack. This is the primary reason I chose this over similar high quality options such as the Tom Bihn Synapse 25.

Also, I know there is a serious lack of cool hacking tools. Unfortunately I am currently in a more defensive than offensive cybersecurity position, so I don't really carry a lot of stuff around with me like I used to when I was red team.

On the front you can see that I have a Grimloc biner in case I need to attach anything to my pack. I also have a Gonex water bottle pouch and a large water bottle. On the back of the pack I have a pouch with my EDC Zebralight on the shoulder strap for easy access while wearing the ruck.

• GORUCK GR1 26L
  
• Gonex MOLLE Water Bottle Pouch
  
• 48oz Nalgene
  
• Grimloc Locking D-ring
  
• Tactical Tailor Multitool Pouch
  
• Zebralight SC600 Fd Mk; III Plus
  
  Opening the pack up, I have my tool pouch attached to the internal MOLLE webbing at the top as well as work gloves, a waterproof pack cover, rain coat, and umbrella. Additionally, I have a packing cube full of clothes. The packing cube isn't a usual part of my EDC, but I had the bag packed for an overnight trip so I thought I'd leave it in the picture to show what a few days worth of clothes looked like packed in the bag.
  
  
• Zulu Nylon Gear Mega Admin Pouch
  
• Sea to Summit Ultrasil Pack Cover
  
• EEZ-Y Compact Travel Umbrella
  
• Stearns Dry Wear Raincoat
  
• AmazonBasics Packing Cube
  
• Mechanix FastFit Gloves
  
  Under the flap on my admin pouch and inside the admin pouch you can see my primary toolkit. It's designed to have just about anything I would need for basic repairs throughout a day. I'm not handyman or anything, but I like to be able to solve just about any basic problem with just what is in the pouch. If I'm away from home or my car where I have more in-depth toolboxes, I can still solve most issues I run into.
  
  
• CountyComm EMT/Combat Shears](https://countycomm.com/products/premium-emt-combat-shears)
  
• Veleno Designs Quantum D2 Battery Charger
  
• Micro Cord from TEC Accessories
  
• BIC Lighters
  
• Zip Ties
  
• Wiha Screwdriver Bit Set
  
• Irwin Vise Grip 6in Long Nose Locking Pliers
  
• Nitrile Gloves
  
• T-Rex Tape Mini Roll
  
• PowerPax SlimLine CR123A Battery Caddy with extra batteries
  
• PowerPax 18650 Battery Caddy with extra batteries
  
• Robert Lessard (SAKModder) custom Alox SAK
  
• ThruNite Catapult V6 Mini Thrower
  
• Surefire Minimus Headlamp
  
• Kiya Nail Clippers
  
• Stanley Tape Measure
  
• SERE Pocket Saw
  
• MulWark Ratchet and bits
  
• CountyComm Pocket Widgy Pry Bar
  
• Small tin with extra razor utility blades for my TPT Slide
  
  There are two inner pockets. The mesh pocket has several micro USB and USB-C charging cords, an HDMI cable, cigarette lighter charging plug, and a wall charging plug. The top pocket, as well as the outer slant pocket are filled with assorted items that I want quick access to.
  
  
• Striking Viking Wooden Beard Comb
  
• Metal Chopsticks
  
• CountyComm Super Spork
  
• Prescription Medication
  
• Tissues
  
• Extra set of prescription glasses
  
• Personal first aid kit
  
• Pouch of pens, pencils, sharpies, and general office supplies
  
• Petzl e+LITE Headlamp
  
• Chapstick
  
• Tide to Go Pen
  
• 100% DEET Bug Spray
  
• REI Mesh Stuff Sack](https://www.rei.com/product/118851/rei-co-op-mesh-stuff-sack)
  
• OnePlus Dash Charger
  
• Veho Pebble P-1 Portable Power Bank
  
• NOT PICTURED: Jaybird X3 Bluetooth Headphones
  

Behringer UFO202 is only $40 but honestly it's a piece of junk.

302USB for $50 might be a little better. Never used it so I couldn't tell you.

This Lexicon Alpha unit for $60 looks decent for the price. Has balanced TRS outputs as well as a couple of inputs. Again, never used it so not sure how good it is.

Here's the thing, you bought a great pair of studio monitors, but any of these three options will likely output less than the potential quality of those Rokits. I really recommend spending the extra money on something comparable to the Audiobox I mentioned in my first comment to get the most out of your investment. If not, that third link would be my next choice. TRS will provide better quality than an RCA connection, hands down.

To find more options, just look up "audio interface." Add "usb", "firewire" etc to get more specific results based on your setup.

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Description|In this week's video on The Ideas Guy, I take some pieces of scrap metal and forge, grind, sand and polish them into a tiny viking sword. Besides the adorable size (it's adorable, seriously) it accurately shows how many viking swords did actually look in history. Join me in making a tiny sword for all the tiny vikings of the world lol :)⤶⤶If you are interested in some of the tools I use in this video, follow these links to buy your own!⤶⤶Dremel 3000 Tool:⤶https://amzn.to/2Jot7tq⤶⤶Dremel Flex Shaft Attachment:⤶https://amzn.to/2JBaYbY⤶⤶⤶#theideasguy #tinyviking #modelviking #vikingsword #scrapmetal #imadeit

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Play around with it. I found FL studio pretty intuitive. Theres a number of good "FL Studio for beginner" videos on youtube. The way i learned things was by googling for an answer after 5 or 10 minutes of fiddling around with no luck...couldn't figure out the most efficient way to sample? I'd just youtue "how to sample in FL Studio" and i've been using said method since then.

I'm pretty sure there is a $200-$300 version of FL studio that has most of what i you use/will use.

I've only ever mixed in FL studio, imo, my tracks come out well enough that they don't require mastering.

You either need Jam origin or a decent mic to record guitar. I had a friend use a vocal mic and play his acoustic guitar into the mic. He sound proofed the area and made sure the apartment was quiet. Again, jam origin works.

Estimating all costs, you'd could get everything you need for $350 maybe? FL Studio, a basic sound interface (Basic as in this, used Akai MPK, and either a decent small pair of studio monitors or studio headphones (The $30 AKGs from Guitar Center will work for now_

I have a Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station, and I highly recommend it for just about any kind of work. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BRC2XU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518809457&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=weller+wes51&dpPl=1&dpID=41WVs6AdNqL&ref=plSrch

The slightly more expensive digital version doesn’t solder any better, it just has buttons and a display instead of an adjustment knob.

If you’re working on tiny components, then you’ll just need to buy a few smaller tips, but there are plenty of sizes and shapes out there for Weller irons. I’ve always just bought cheaper knockoff tips, like the ones where you can get a variety pack of 10 for ~$30 on amazon. I don’t think tips are really worth spending a premium for the Weller brand, unlike the iron itself. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VFYPKN2/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518809384&sr=8-2-fkmr2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=weller+replacement+tip+set+wes51

I’d also recommend a good vise or workstation to hold things steady, because there’s nothing worse than trying to use crappy little helping hands or just solder on a bench top. I use a Panavise like this, just as an idea, but there are probably some decent cheaper options out there: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00011QA0M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518809613&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=panavise+350&dpPl=1&dpID=41smUr9QAlL&ref=plSrch

I had the same dilemma for a long time! I highly recommend buying one, as it's so much more convenient. I recently got this tofu press, and it's been great!

My goto lately has been either tofu "eggs" or scramble, which I make by combining a seasoning mix to coat the outside of pressed, not previously frozen firm tofu. I just eyeball it, but it's mostly nutritional yeast, with a few dashes of turmeric, some onion and garlic powder, some ground mustard, salt, pepper, and about a Tbsp of corn starch mixed well. I just cut a hunk of tofu into four equal sized flat planks and coat them well and throw them in the skillet with veggie sausage, onions, peppers, sometimes vegan cheese, and always hot sauce. Super easy, and super tasty!

Happy happy cake day! I think the item that you will get from your high priority wishlist is this.

1 Cake or birthday related

2 Simon Pegg I believe he helped direct or something an episode of Doctor Who.

3 A book you are eager to read

4 Eating Utensils

5 Animal

6 Purple

7 A game

8 A guilty pleasure I have an excessive amount of lip products and still want more.

9 A Tool

10 Something from your childhood

11 An organizational item

12 Hobby

13 Nerdy/Geeky

14 Something Natural ;)

15 Green

16 Something you wear

17 Funny

18 Beads, Bees or Beans

19 Gardening

20 Favorite item

shakes ass Woo! Got them all! Thanks for the contest :)

Looks good but since you’ll be doing lots of processing I’d go with a ryzen 2700 build as it’s got better multi core performance and it comes with its own really good cooler. Also I’d just go down to Lowe’s or home depot and get you a good screwdriver and some philips Head bits for under 20 bucks instead of spending so much on an ifixit kit.

If you insist on getting a screwdriver kit, I’d go with ORIA Precision Screwdriver Set, 60 in 1 Magnetic Driver Kit as it’s got better grip, more bits, it extends and retracts, and costs a fraction of the prices.

You also probably don’t need That much wattage on your psu

Super easy! With this set of bits , At first I used one from the hardware store that was expensive, but made small holes and took FOREVER.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSS5NO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just have like a 30 dollar drill from Walmart. I put the piece on my door mat on my porch, pour a little water (You don't need a hose but I have about a cup of water and add a little as needed) I start the drilling at an angle and then slowly raise it up until its straight up and down. Having a sticker on the bottom helps to have something for the bit to grab into. I'll try and do a video as it's way easier than the videos I saw on Youtube. You do want to have your hand on the piece though, the only thing I broke was because the drill went through the bottom and swung the piece around, that's before I was doing it on the mat to help with slippage.

Without seeing more detailed pictures it's hard to know if any of them are valuable, but they are probably all worth tinkering with.

There are specific ways to go about restoring them, so I would do a bit of research before diving in, especially to see if any of them are collectable. If they have stamped maker's marks on the stummel, you can start there.

So, I guess the best place to start is https://pipedia.org/wiki/Main_Page

You need to clean the bowls, both inside and out, without stripping the finish. The stems can be soaked in OxyClean to get the worst of the corrosion off, then sanded back to a nice glossy finish with Micro Mesh sanding pads.

There's definitely some nice looking shapes in there, it's just hard to know anything more about them without more detail.

Totally worth the money:
A drill that will actually drill holes. I bought a POS drill (50 bucks) and it had no power to it. I finally dropped 250 on this and well worth every penny:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DG7SYYI
If you're doing any type of wood working and you want to join peices of wood securely and have it look nice look into the Kreg Pocket Hole Jig:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J43A7W
I also purchased this guy to help clean up the massive extension cable that I have in my garage. Totally worth it as well:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005A1K1
Also invest in a good pair of safety glasses and dust mask.

I've actually just got my first table saw this week as well. After doing a lot of research before putting it all together, here's what I've found:

Watch this video and there are several other good videos on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxRSarTJLMU

As far as the cast iron top, remove any oil with WD-40 or mineral spirits, then protect with Boeshield and a paste wax. Johnson seems to be the common choice, but any should do as long as it's silicone free.
Read this: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/105746 (Boeshield mentioned in replies 12 and 13)
Boeshield: https://www.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

You could also use a spray on dry lubricant like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220-Aerosol-Top-Cote/dp/B0000223UD

As far as waxing the blade, this link helped me realize I wasn't cleaning my blades on other saws and that would help a lot as well. It goes off topic but the first response mentions using a spray on "Topcote" like what I linked to just above on the blades after cleaning.
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/41371

For transparency sake: I haven't set it up yet. I'm picking up most of what I linked above today on my way home and I'll be doing all that stuff tonight.

• Kreg pocket hole jig -- $40 to make carpentry projects super easy.
  
• Rivnut tool -- for mounting things to sheet metal.
  
• Shop towels -- more versatile paper towels.
  
• good cooler -- ice last 5-8 days even in the middle of summer heat.
  
• bug nets for windows -- but them pre-made or build your own. Gives you airflow in summer without letting the bugs in.
  
• candle lantern -- cheap. Safe if you blow it out before crawling into bed. Nice soft lighting to give you a break from blue LEDs.
  
• Aeropress coffee maker -- great coffee where ever you are. Quick and easy to clean.
  
• mechanic gloves -- for when you've got to do work and don't want super greasy hands and bloody knuckles.

I got these diamond coated drill bits for like $10 that work like a charm. I drilled the initial hole which was too small, but because the bit is coated on the sides, you can expand it gradually. I love them and highly recommend them.

Then, there's how I was able to get it in at an angle. I made the hole and ellipse, not a circle, because I'm not using a grommet to seal it and the intersection of a cylinder and a plane at an angle i an ellipse. Then, because these drill bits can almost be used like dremel bits, I just went along the edges at the angle I wanted.

Hey /r/audiophile! Three questions for you today.

I have seen the Behringer UCA202 recommended on here a few times for a DAC, but I am considering the UFO202 instead because I want to also be able to record vinyl to my computer. Is this the right choice? Will I still be able to use the UFO202 as a DAC for playback?

Also, if I plug a 3.5mm to RCA cable from the headphone jack of my computer to the AUX input of a receiver (Yamaha CR-450), will I get any additional benefit from adding a DAC, or does the receiver serve as a DAC?

3rd question: If I were to use that same 3.5mm to RCA cable to go from the headphone jack of the UCA/UFO202 to the receiver, would that be just as good as getting an RCA-RCA cable, or would that throw away some or all of the benefit of the DAC in the first place?

Thanks!

I feel like every plant lover should have a set if these. Or if you don't know what to get your plant loving friend... Get them these.

I find awesone pots all the time for cheap at ross, or goodwill, then just drill my own holes! Free yourselves from the agony of a beautiful pot at a great price with nooo holeeesss.

It gets easier the more you do it! You can always change up what you're adding as well, it definitely doesn't have to be an exact science.

Liquid smoke is a concentrated liquid, you can get it from most grocery stores or somewhere like Amazon. I like it because it adds a little bit of smokiness / depth to the tofu.

If you're going to be eating tofu, you will definitely want a dedicated press. [This one](Tofu Press - a unique and stylish tofu press to transform your tofu by Tofuture https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01698J0RU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UZa3DbYMNSGMX) is my personal favorite. There are others out there that are good at getting rid of the liquid in the tofu, but they tend to smash it and change the shape. I like this one because it keeps everything together, while still squeezing out all the liquid. I've used it for almost a year now and I'll never switch to anything else personally, haha.

For those interested in doing this, but don't have the equipment, here are several audio interfaces for capturing vinyl to digital:

• Behringer UCA202
  
• Behringer UFO202
  
• ART USB Phono Plus
  
  The Behringer UCA202 would be good for setups with an external preamp, output through the monitor function (tape out) of a receiver with built-in phono preamp, or a turntable with a built-in preamp.
  
  The UFO202 has a built-in phono preamp and would be good for connecting the turntable directly to the computer -- no external preamp or receiver needed. The ART USB Phono Plus would be the same, except you will get a definite upgrade in clarity and presentation with it's phono preamp.
  
  All of these interfaces max out at 16 bit / 48 kHz, so they are not high-res (24 bit / 88.2 kHz or higher), but they are going to capture at CD or better quality, which should be fine in most instances.

Great choices! Although I might be biased, lol.

That's a good selection of padlocks as well.

I'd recommend visiting a thrift store/habitat for humanity/etc to see if you can find a really cheap double-sided deadbolt for less than $10. You can take the pins out and play with it in a configuration that only has 1 pin, then 2 pins, then 3 pins, etc. That will help a lot as you first start to learn and understand feedback.

Vises are really nice, but definitely not necessary, especially for padlocks. I started picking locks 7 or 8 years ago and I only just bought my first vise, a Panavise 350. At $89.99, it is not cheap, but dang it is nice. There are cheaper vise options, but I would have to let someone else chime in.

The Q2N can function as a 720p USB webcam, though it's quite wide-angle (like a go-pro) so it would need to be closer than you'd think to get a good shot.

Your budget really is too low for anything other than webcams really, though you can get some pretty decent webcams for that price.

Hve a look at the Logitech C920. You'd have enough left over for a USB audio interface so you could run an output from the desk into your streaming package.

The thing is though, webcams don't have zoom. The zoom/pan that is done by software is simply blowing up the image so you're not gaining any detail, so things will just look blurrier when you zoom in.

Ideally, you'll need to reduce the distance between the camera and the stage somehow. You could, for example, suspend the camera from the ceiling, or mount it on a desk at the front of the bar?

However, if you're streaming at 720p or lower resolution, then you could potentially zoom in on the video in your streaming package without losing quality (don't use the webcam software, use something like OBS).

The Zoom Q2N would work as it can function as a USB webcam, but it's got a go-pro like wide-angle lens on it so it would need to be even closer than a normal webcam.

Really to pull this project off well, you'd need to spend at least a few more hundred dollars. A consumer camcorder like a Canon Vixia, plus a HDMI capture device like a Blackmagic Web Presenter would be the ideal budget setup.

The PSI micromesh sanding pads work fine, and you can definitely get great results with them, but I've had much better luck with this style. Definitely worth trying when it comes time to replace your current pads.

If he is going to be using a table saw, one a GRR-ripper would be a good gift. I've been wanting one, but never pulled the trigger. This helps cut thin pieces on the table saw. Also generally safer than normal push sticks.

http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-GR-100-GRR-Ripper/dp/B001I9UNWC

Another thing to go with many power tools is a magnetic feather block. This also helps keep things safe on power tools. It keep wood tight to a reference surface, helping accuracy and safety.

http://www.amazon.com/Mesa-Vista-Design-GRIP-TITE-Featherboard/dp/B0000223VF

Too late for this, but easy outs are NOT for use with seized screws. They are only for use with screws whose head is buggered.

I wrote this up a while back, you should give it a read:

Best tools for removing broken or stripped screws.

As for getting the easy out OUT, there is another option, but you need some crazy tools. Mainly a drill-press stand for your hand held drill, and a hollow, diamond coring bit, like what you would use for drilling a hole through glass or ceramic. If you can cut around the easy out with the coring bit, then you can break it free. Next, you finish over-drilling the hole, and then insert a threaded insert to bring the hole back down to the correct size.

Parts I'm talking about:

Drill guide The drill guide is important because the coring bits will walk all over the place since they don't have a center point. The guide can be fastened, held, etc. in place better, and help guide the bit to where it needs to go.

Core bit
You can also use a more standard bimetallic hole saw, just without the pilot bit installed.

Threadsert (Choose the ID of the original fastener, and find it in SS, not carbon) Don't use a Helicoil, those things are shit. (Speaking from LOTS of experience here...)

Two taps that match the outside threading of the threaded insert. One a taper tap, and one a bottoming tap.

So I posted in /r/woodworking and got a pretty good suggestion that is going to work.

For drilling the holes, I ordered a micro drill set that allows me to drill my pilot holes with a small finger drill. This is effective and gives me much more control than attempting to use a power drill (and works just fine).

Then just another note for aligning the sections - in the same woodworking thread they recommend using transfer points. This is a good technique that I was familiar with but will mention. Basically once you have your pilot, you put a specialized plug into the hole where the the plug is built with a sharp tip pointing out of its center. After I've drilled my two pilots in the railing top and bottom rails, I'll put a transfer point into each of those pilot holes, then lightly use the transfer points to "poke" and leave a small target mark in the end newel post. Then I know exactly where to drill my second pilot so that my support dowel will line up.

Thanks for the comments!

Tofu is pretty easy to put in everything if you know how to cook it and is a better source of protein than meat on a per oz basis. And it's inexpensive also, you can get a brick of tofu for like $2 and it contains +40g of protein and only like 360 calories. A cheap tofu press will pay for itself the first time you use it, only real requirement for cooking with tofu. I have this press and its really nice, because you can keep increasing the strength of the press as more water drains, and the water just sits in the basin on the bottom so there is no mess. The power towel and heavy object trick is tedious and I don't recommend it.

Personally, asian style tofu dishes are the fastest to make imo.

Press and cube the tofu, then toss it in corn starch. Put about maybe 1/4 cup of high heat oil (I use canola) in a pan and get it real hot, then fry the tofu. If the tofu looks dusty still, add a bit more oil. The outside of the tofu should be nice and golden and crispy when its done, takes about 4-6 minutes. Turn the heat off, and then put your favorite choice of sauce on, using the heat left in the pan to reduce the sauce. Eat. If you want to get fancy you can add rice or veggies like lightly steamed broccoli into the mix. Assuming you let the tofu press sit while you did other things, the actual prep & cook time is less than 20 minutes. The oil, sauce, and corn starch obviously add some calories.

Burritos with imitation Chipotle sofritas are also a fav of mine, but that takes more time and planning since beans are involved (please see my recent PSA of why you should never rush bean prep lol). You can cheat the intricate recipes for sofritas mix with straight up pulling the pressed tofu apart with forks, then mixing taco seasoning (I recommend medium or hot), some lime juice, a bit of black pepper, and a tiny bit of vinegar, a bit of water, then letting it simmer. It doesn't taste as legit, but requires WAY less time and ingredients.

Or if you are feeling real lazy and don't mind boring foods, quinoa and a bit of brown sugar go a long way also for good macro split meal that is also on the cheap.

It's a little small. It has a 208 mm swing, which is 8" in Freedom Units. That means its maximum depth is 4", which is too shallow for some bridge posts.

If you're looking to go cheap, and you're building from scratch instead of performing repairs and general shop projects, a cordless drill attachment will work for you.

There's only 6 or 8 holes to drill on a standard 6-string guitar, so while a drill press is very useful, it's not an absolute necessity.

That being said, having a drill press is awesome, and it's worth paying for a larger used one if you decide to invest in one. I have a used one with a 14" swing and it's an ideal size.

I had success using the guide referenced here by u/BooB398, but honestly the majority of the dust buildup was along the side vents which I cleaned with Q-tips and did not require any disassembly. Also make sure you get the TR9 Torx Security bit if you are going to get in there (I ordered a kit on Amazon for like 14 bucks https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E16J6RQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

As far as tools and such, you'll need a splitter cable for the fans (which should be included with the Noctua fans) as well as this: https://www.amazon.com/GELID-SOLUTIONS-PWM-Adapter-Cooler/dp/B005ZKZEQA

That adapter is to connect the bottom mounted fans to the gpu, so you can control the fan speeds using MSI afterburner (overclocking/fan profile program). Besides that, just a screwdriver, microfiber cloth, 99% isopropyl, and these pads if you decide to go the Accelero route: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UYTTLI4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You should also invest in a screwdriver set with small bits, as some of the screws will strip if you try to use too big of a bit. Something like this should be ok: https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Screwdriver-Professional-Precision-Smartphone/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=electronics+screwdriver+set&qid=1555887517&s=electronics&sr=1-3

The isopropyl and microfiber cloths are to wipe the cpu/gpu before applying thermal paste to ensure a completely clean surface, as well as clean up already applied thermal paste. DO NOT use paper towels as they will leave residue on the cpu/gpu.

All the things you mentioned about watercooling are why I didn't go that route. Not only maintenance concerns, but if something is installed improperly, you run the risk of destroying your components. It just takes one mistake or loose fitting to potentially destroy everything. Not to scare you from trying it or anything, but that was always a risk I wasn't willing to take.

I have my rear fan mounted to the case as intake, with the U9S blowing air toward the front of the case. I know it sounds stupid to vent hot air into the case, but this is how I get the best temps out of my setup. You might be better off aiming it upward, but I didn't want the bottom fans to be completely starved of air, so I put another 120mm intake fan on the front part of the side bracket to help cool the air coming from the cpu.

I also had the same concerns as you about the feet, and after several days of using the stock feet, I noticed how hot the table was getting underneath the case. I bought some custom feet from here: https://mnpctech.com/ncase-m1-mods/ncase-m1-black-silver-replace-feet/

They are a bit pricey, but I've heard of people buying feet meant for speaker amps that will work as well. They just need to use M3 screws to fit into the stock feet holes on the M1.

Edit: for the second fan, you would mount one on the back of the M1, directly to the case. The second fan would be mounted directly on the cpu heatsink, above the ram. If you're dead set on having that ram, you can always mount the fan a little higher so it clears the ram. Shouldn't be a big deal. If you plan on pointing the U9S toward the top of the case, then it doesn't matter what ram you have.

Edit2: wow thanks for the gold!

With regards to making it more safe, you could get something like the Grripper. It's a pushblock that makes cutting smaller and thinner pieces a lot safer on the table saw. I just got one for myself, and I love it.

You can also use it with a router table, a band saw and a huge number of other ways too. It's a nice little tool.

What tools do you have?

For longevity target rust. Sand, grind, scrape it down and paint it with hightemp paint. You can replace the grates if you want just search cooking/grill grates on Amazon and you'll probably find something that fits. Personally I'd replace the handles. I hate a grill that feels like it wants to crush my hand when I'm taking a peek or sticking in a temperature probe.

IF I were cleaning it up I'd take this to it, inside and out, and repaint the whole thing. If you don't have an angle grinder a Drill version works (preferably with a cord, batteries don't last that long). I'd remove/replace all wood (handles particularly), hardware, screws, bolts, anything that comes off. Maybe something with the hinges, probably some PB Blaster to break up that rust then some WD40 to coat/lubricate whats left.

To use it, clean off the grates and smoke something, it's usable as is. Get it nice and hot then bring the temperature down and let it go. You may find that it is to big/small for you. People underestimate the charcoal and wood required to keep a smoker this big going. I personally couldn't use one this big, smoking 3 times what you eat sounds good til you throw away good brisket or ribs a week later. If you want to smoke as much as possible get the smoker that makes it easy, not the one that feeds your extended family once a year. For free, just use it and see before you invest time/money.

What is the difference between these two sets(aside from number of pieces)?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KIECW4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KI8CTS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I am trying to figure out what to get for my boyfriend for Christmas, and he's in a similar situation of having a lathe but no turning tools. I also have a face shield in my amazon cart. He's had a box of smaller turning blanks for a while now.

He does a reasonable amount of woodworking(makes a lot of furniture, is super into hand tools), but he's new to turning, so if you have any suggestions, it would be appreciated!

I have this, the ifixit and another one from ORIA that was on sale a few days ago (https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Screwdriver-Professional-Precision-Smartphone/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1541607353&sr=8-7&keywords=computer+tool+kit).

​

If you want to buy this one and have it as a backup or keep it at a secondary area like your car, home or work, its a great deal. But if you want one that you want to use as your main toolkit, go with the Ifixit. I had this one and the ORIA one I sent the link of first, and they were great. But once I tried the ifixit, I was more than pleased.

I have a cheap table saw, and I am basically scared of it. I feel that if I had a griper that I might not be. I bought this shitty saw last year, and have only used it twice since, but I need it again for another project coming up. A garden bo, if you are interested. I currently only have 1 cheap plastic push stick that came with the saw, which by itself isn't even sufficient. So, I kind of need to buy another push stick regardless.

So, what do you guys think of it? Is it worth $60? Does it work well. Is it safer? Is there something better?

Here is a link to it,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001I9UNWC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Here is the wood whisperer's video of it,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nE9RE3CEz4E

I have a cheap table saw, and I am basically scared of it. I feel that if I had a griper that I might not be. I bought this shitty saw last year, and have only used it twice since, but I need it again for another project coming up. A garden bo, if you are interested. I currently only have 1 cheap plastic push stick that came with the saw, which by itself isn't even sufficient. So, I kind of need to buy another push stick regardless.

So, what do you guys think of it? Is it worth $60? Does it work well. Is it safer? Is there something better?

Here is a link to it,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001I9UNWC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Here is the wood whisperer's video of it,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nE9RE3CEz4E

I have this bit set which was super cheap on Amazon, and I have used those to put drainage holes in TONS of ceramic pots! It's super easy, I spray water on them to keep the temp down while drilling, and take it at a medium speed.

My tip for starting the hole (that's the hard part), is to start at an angle, get a groove in it, and slowly tilt the drill up until the circle is flat on the surface. I haven't broken or cracked one yet. :)

So stuff like this? Also, how do you apply grease/lubricant to the bearings? The rails/worm gear I’m assuming it’s directly applied, then the axis is moved up/down/left/right to apply throughout.


Zoom-SPOUT Sewing Machine Oil Oiler ~ 4FL. OZ.(118ml)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BYCKTW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6cPJBb3ZHQ8QH

3-IN-ONE Multi-Purpose Oil, 3 OZ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JN5PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HcPJBbYNBTFVR

Super Lube 51010 Oil Super Lube
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DdPJBbVT5E89G

Super Lube 21010 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), Blistered, ½ oz Tube
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXKZQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-dPJBbN0D6KVT

Not bad, its actually an old, simple design for a ratcheting wrench. Still popular because its cheap but does the job. Here's a very popular one on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Close-Quarters/dp/B000XYOUS6

But yes, using bit ratchets is far better than allen/hex keys.

Not a dumb question at all. I’m really bad with cars even though I love them and I was able to handle the install. YouTube videos showed people removing the rear wheels. While that would probably make it a bit easier, I was able to do it without taking the wheels off.

For BRZ/FRS ‘13 - ‘16, there shouldn’t be any drilling needed. The 17’s however will need some holes drilled. Best of luck.

Btw, this tool came in super handy since the space was really tight:
ratcheting right andgle screw driver

I did use a drill press. And even then not all the holes lined up perfectly. I be to do some fine tweeks at the end. I'd say either find a buddy with a drill press or save up and buy one. Some aren't all that expensive. Drill presses come in handy. Good luck with you build. This Or This

You could have saved if you got everything off Amazon:

Dremel 4000 = $73

15 100mm x 3mm brass rods = $8

36 Sheets of sandpaper = $8

Flex Shaft = $20

12 Euro Tools Needle Files = $14

2 Day trial of Amazon Prime (Includes free 2 day shipping) = $2

The files are more expensive than the $3 ones you find in Harbor Freight but you get two of every nice and sharp profile Including the Knife that helps you to get into tight spaces to make things like ASSA Gin Spools!

I would totally say "OMG YAAAAAAAY!!!!" if I were to receive either Cards Against Humanity or this great Dremel Flex Shaft attachment for my Dremel, which would help me with my etsy orders! :D

Thank you for the contest! Yay! :D Keep on being awesome!

\^ This.

I hate when people say things like what I am about to say but in this case it is true.
If you don't even have the tools to open the drive, this is not the project for you. Opening a hard drive yourself to recover data is a really terrible idea when you are talking about exposing the platters. There is a reason data recovery is so expensive and it isn't just because they have high profit margins.

In the event that there isn't any data on there that you care about and you want to give it a go as an academic exercise....that is a horse of a different color.
A T9 is actually pretty big. In my bag with me I have a kit that includes a T3 through T8 and it wouldn't surprise me at all if your drive required something in that range.
If you live near a Micro Center you can pick up something like this kit. It is quite usable.
http://www.microcenter.com/product/441261/54_bit_driver_kit
I actually have the Inland "ufixit" generic version from Micro for under $20 and it's really handy.
http://www.microcenter.com/product/486365/uFixit_Bit_Driver_Kit_-_54_Pieces

If you don't have a Micro Center nearby, try something like this on Amazon?
https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Screwdriver-Professional-Precision-Smartphone/dp/B01E16J6RQ

Perhaps this will get me flamed here for doing things the wrong way but it's working for me on my table-less setup (currently making a router table and saving up for a table saw so I can avoid relying so heavily on these techniques in the future).

A table saw is probably what you need to do this properly but this is sort of a "poor mans fence".

My current workaround is to draw my cut line, and then clamp a straight edge ruler (or other material that's perfectly straight) 1" to the side. When I make my cut I know it will be perfectly straight if I keep the metal guide flush to the clamped piece the entire time.

This is also how I'm using my router with straight bits to make dado cuts (measure up 2 3/4" from the center line for my router guide)...I know there are probably better ways to do this but again, no table saw so I'm making due with what I know and what I've got.

• This might also be a decent purchase depending on your needs:
  http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007K5HIFS/
  
  
• For fun, here's another similar item for converting a hand drill to a portable drill press:
  http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCIMEA/
  
  
  Those are both probably tools/adapters which are not going to be better than a table saw or drill press but they're also appealing for those with limited budget or limited work space.

Actually this is wrong. Aluminum is highly corrosive, which is actually a good thing, well mostly. It quickly oxidizes forming a thin "skin" that protects the underlying material from most weather and chemicals.

In the aviation world corrosion is a big concern and we generally deal with it through use of zinc-chromate primers or sometimes plating which has various approaches. You can even use wax if you really want to, think BoeSheild T-9 or ACF-50.

As for why it is good for bicycles. Probably the biggest two factors are low cost and the ease with which it can be extruded, milled and machined into usable shapes for bicycles. All things being equal if I was building a bicycle out of a metal it would be Titanium hands down. If I was building to a price point however, Aluminum wins.

For anything I find that doesn’t have holes, I use some diamond tipped drill bits to drill holes. So far, most coffee mugs are super easy, but I’ve only done one ceramic pot, and it worked out well enough. I use this technique with drill bits like these.

Besides that, make sure your arrangements contain compatible plants: similar watering, similar light needs, dormancy, etc, and you should be good!

Yup, I just replaced it and its been working fine ever since. There are various youtube videos on replacing the power supply, its easy. You'll need a TR8 screwdriver. I bought a set that costs around 15$ CAD. Power supply cost about 55$.

​

https://www.amazon.ca/TEKTON-2830-Everybit-Precision-Electronic/dp/B009MKGRQA/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3I5S4DKEMKDAF&keywords=tekton+screwdriver+set&qid=1566453570&s=gateway&sprefix=tekton+sc%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-7

​

https://www.amazon.ca/ADP-240CR-Replacement-Playstation-CUH-1100A-CUH-1115A/dp/B07GYJWXZ7/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2CIXD4AMOGG25&keywords=ps4+power+supply&qid=1566453593&s=gateway&sprefix=ps4+power+supply%2Caps%2C134&sr=8-3

There are tons of guides and videos on youtube to help you out. Its not complicated. There are around 7 screws(4 on the back of the PS4 and 3 holding the power supply in) you gotta take out. Unplug it and pull it straight out while trying not to bend the prongs. Pop your new power supply and screw everything back up. Took me about 10 minutes. I hope that fixes your issue because if it doesn't, then it might be the logic board and you might need professional help.

Simple Green is your friend.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017D1GG6?ref_=wms_ohs_product&redirect=true&psc=1&pldnSite=1

This ^ will last you a long time. I clean my discs with it to remove the squeak also.

This http://www.amazon.com/Park-CM-5-2-Cyclone-Chain-Scrubber/dp/B007HDNOT2/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1398709921&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=park+tool+chain+cleaner plus simple green = a super chain cleaning.




Also a little car paint detailer keeps it shiny shiny.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQXAE?ref_=sr_1_cc_2&s=aps&qid=1398709624&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=meguires%20detailer&pldnSite=1

Just spray it into a rag and not directly onto the frame to prevent over spray on the discs/pads.

As others have mentioned, a good lube (Boeshield T9 for example) should be matched to your riding conditions and applied.

http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1398709998&sr=1-1&keywords=boeshield+t-9

yes that 3in1 will do fine, but thicker will be more responsive and last longer.

You can melt vaseline into a bearing with a lighter - hold the bearing on the end of a pencil or something you don't care about burning a bit. Make sure you only do this if the bearing is all metal.

"Brain Lube" is the best, imo - this is the same stuff https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51010-Oil/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499211271&sr=1-3&keywords=super+lube+ptfe

Mineral spirits cuts the oil - distributes it more evenly and thinly - so adding it to your lube makes it less responsive.

A magnetic screw driver set helps out a lot.

I got this one

An ESD mat
and wrist strap are strongly recommended, though not required. There are other ways to ensure that you're grounded.

Thermal paste Along with some >90% alcohol to clean off the old thermal paste if needed.

And lots of patience. I assembled and disassembled my PC multiple times until I was happy with my cable management.

These two things and some tape are all you need for beautiful headlights. You go through the levels from coarse to fine sanding in alternating directions, vertical with one pad then horizontal with the next. You only need to use 4 or 5 pads, I went through the whole set the first time and found the last couple to be too fine to do much. Clear coat after they're sanded and dry and your good to go for years to come.

2 inch by 2 inch Micro Mesh Soft Touch Sanding Pads
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H6EC4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TuITCbWP205TA

Meguiar's G17804 Keep Clear Headlight Coating
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M4RVVX6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6wITCbNGG9B7W

I agree with most of what has been suggested here. A microjig Gripper, a better saw blade, the one that comes with the saw is crap. A dado set. He can make push sticks, I like the ones I made better than the store bought. You could also get him a gift card to a hardwood store or HD/Lowes so he can buy lumber or anything else he needs.

• Micro Jig Gripper
  
• Dado Stack
  
• incra v27
  
• Digital level/Angle finder for making sure your blade is at 90 or 45 degrees
  
  

Yes, give it a go on the Pi. I have been enjoying it for years.

One thing I forgot to mention. The audio output of the Pi sucks. It has a dynamic range of 11 bits. Even these $6 USB sound cards do better. I use the Behringer UFO202 because I have a turntable, but the Behringer UCA202 is great if you have a Digital Input on your HiFi.
There are a ton of USB and I2C DACs that will work well.

The other commenter is right on - this is the Jon Sine Desk.

A few things I’d note:

• Finish work is a bitch. If you’re going to stain and do a polyurethane topcoat / finish, leave yourself a week to get that done.
  
  
• The way my monitors are mounted through the desk is causing some sag in the plywood. If possible get a solid board and maybe go 1” thick - I used 3/4” birch ply and wish I had a more solid mounting platform for my displays and stuff.
  
  
• The finished desk is very deep (32 1/2” from back to front. Make sure that will work in your space.
  
  
• I ended up using wood screws through the top board into the sides. If I had planned better I would have routed the side boards for some [locking furniture connectors](5 Sets Furniture Connector 0.55" Dia Cam Fittings Pre-inserted Nuts Dowels https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDKI92Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5ZMLBbASKFZM8) like the do with IKEA furniture. Unfortunately I glued the bases together before thinking of this.
  
  
• Lastly, I used a [pocket screw jig](Kreg R3 Jr. Pocket Hole Jig System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J43A7W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N2MLBbEHR7YM4) with wood screws and glue to connect the verticals to the base pieces. It’s very strong - would recommend this.
  
  
  Hope this helps. Happy to help with any additional questions you might have as you get into it. The project was a lot of work but has a very rewarding end result :-)

For rust prevention - I use Boeshield T-9 on all my iron tops (actually, on anything that rusts) - it is a good deal easier to put on, lasts longer than wax and is very effective.

I do use paste wax over the top of the T-9 to make it more slippery.

I am gluten intolerant so I’m really thankful for Beyond Meat being the popular option as well. Especially for their plant based sausage and their chicken when cooked right.

Its really frustrating that the few unique vegan options around me feature seitan so I can’t eat it. Happy for others obviously, it just looks so good! 😭

Oh gosh, I hope it rises in popularity in Australia so it’ll be less expensive. I’m in the states so, its not too much. But I am trying to make better use of tofu as its really delicious. I like a redditor’s comparison of tofu with flour.

Mix it with the right ingredients and you have something amazing, you don’t eat it as is to get the most out of it. I read some people actually eat it raw, but I’m saving all of mine for the meal I’m making.

This is the link to the tofu press I got

It really depends on what you want to start building? Any ideas of what your first 5 projects are? For woodworking, I'd get the following.

1. A saw of some time type. Either...
   a) Circular saw. It will make fast work of cutting sheet goods, it's possible to rip boards with decent accuracy, and you can cross cut as well. Super versatile because you can make several jigs and use different blades for hardwoods, plywoods, and even tile. For light, occasional work, you won't notice a difference between a $50 Skil model and a $120 DeWALT model. Just don't drop it.
   b) Jig saw. You can also cut plywood and hardwoods with a jig saw, but the results will not be as good. The benefit of a jig saw is that you can make circular (or any shape really) cuts. You can make a low more artsy stuff with a jig saw.
   
   
2. A drill/driver
   http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PCCK602L2-Lithium-Tool-Combo/dp/B00CM7Z2KW/
   I'd suggest a a drill and impact driver set. You can get away with just a drill and use it to drive screws as well. However, with the combo sets, I was able to pick up an impact driver and a flashlight with a carrying case that uses the same batteries for about $20 more than just a drill and 2 batteries alone. The impact driver will allow you to drive 3-1/2" screws into studs like butter.
   
   
3. Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
   http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W
   This bad boy has made furniture makers out of many that wouldn't be able to in the past. You'll need a good clamp to use with it. Just search YouTube for videos about building stuff. Ana White uses pocket holes on every thing and she makes decent stuff.
   
   
4. Clamps
   "A woodworker never has enough clamps." Everyone knows this.
   http://www.amazon.com/Jorgensen-3724-HD-24-Inch-Heavy-Duty-Steel/dp/B00005R1HY
   http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Quick-Grip-Clamp-Set/dp/B00A9KMARW/
   I have 6 of the 24" clamps, 8 of the Irwin Quick Grip clamps, and a handful of spring clamps. I've been able to build just about anything with that many clamps... but I've wanted more. If you use the pocket hole system, you'll want to clamp pieces together before you drive the screws.
   
   
5. A bench
   I went to a Habitat for Humanity ReStore and picked up an old particle board desk that is about 300 lbs for $20. That's what I use. Otherwise, you can build one from 2x4s with the tools above and build your skills.
   
   
6. Various tools
   Squares, Drill bits, Driver bits....
   I usually pick up something new for every project I start.
   
   
   That's about $500 worth of tools and is the barest of bare bones I'd suggest someone to start with if they want to build bookshelves etc. The most important thing you can have is knowledge and YouTube/Reddit is the best place to get it if you don't have a woodworker to physically teach you.

If you enjoyed the process of making this and see real value in the higher quality results compared to buying flatpack particleboard furniture...

For you next one you night consider buying specialty plywood that comes with a nice hardwood veneer on one side (oak, maple, walnut, cherry, etc). You could also buy a cheap pockethole jig and build a hardwood face frame for the front (for fun). But as long as it's not getting really beat on, the veneer edge banding lasts pretty well.

You could probably drill it out by hand with just a drill bit if you don't want to spend the money on a complete drill / dremel. Or there's always a hand drill kit, like this. Hardware would probably have one.

It's worth it to support it, though. The position of the break means there will be maximum shear stress on the join. Without a support it's much more likely to fall off. If the contact area was bigger I wouldn't worry about it, but in this case it's quite small compared to the weight it's supporting, so I'd really recommend an internal pin.

The hood latches tend to seize up over time, especially if you don't lubricate them occasionally. Had the same problem on my Mk5 Jetta. If it's seized and not a broken cable, you can generally fix it pretty easily.

You need three things: a small screwdriver, a can of lightweight break-free lube like Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster penetrating oil, and a can of spray lithium lube.

Pop the safety latch and prop the hood. Locate the hood latch assembly. Using the precision tube on the spray lube, saturate the inside of the latch and latch plate with the penetrating oil (try to keep overspray from rubber parts). Let sit for 30 seconds or so, and then press on the open side of the latch with the screwdriver until the latch plate releases and locks. Pull the hood release in the cabin to reset. Repeat several times until the latch snaps closed freely when you press on it with the screwdriver. Respray with penetrator if necessary.

Use a shop towel to mop up as much penetrating oil as you can and spray the entire inside of the latch assembly with as much spray lithium as it will hold. Work the mechanism a few more times to get it into the pivot and latch plate as much as possible. Re-saturate with lithium grease and button up.

Every time you change your oil, you should relubricate the hood latch with spray lithium to keep this from happening.

EDIT: Linkies.

My favorite thing is press it and then fry it on medium heat with equal parts rice wine vinegar and soy sauce. It's not 100% WFPB but there's no oil and the sugar in the rice wine vinegar is pretty minimal if you don't use a ton.

If you want it more crispy, bake it in the oven. You can then use it immediately for hot dishes or let it cool and toss it into a salad.

If you get soft tofu you can cut it (no pressing needed) and toss it into miso soup broth.

A lot of people make tofu scramble (kind of like scrambled eggs) but I haven't personally tried it yet.

Sometimes when I'm craving something crispy I'll press it, toss it in cornstarch and fry it in oil. Obviously not WFPB approved but it's my occasional treat.

Edit: a tofu press isn't necessary but totally worth it if you plan to eat tofu often. I have this one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01698J0RU/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504284431&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

>d say unless I already had the jig, for this project I'd make do with finish nails or brads and have a plenty strong joint once glued.

It will take longer than the more expensive option, but you can a block that you clamp to the board with the drill bit for under 20 bucks. Its a single hole, but handy for fixing stuff. Also, there is another jig that has a better system than the kreg IMO out there... Armor something. Adjustments are single and easy. I have had mine for several years and used it some. I like, but finding myself using a mix of techniques for different reasons. Mostly because I can't hid the pockets or I'm going for a different look. Also exploring different joinery.

This a box of screws would be pretty cheap to build it.

https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-MKJKIT-Mini-Jig-Kit/dp/B00065WPP2/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?keywords=kreg+jig+drill+guide+block&pd_rd_i=B00065WPP2&pd_rd_r=e7de3652-f32f-4107-8fc5-29fda08a97ff&pd_rd_w=WpBs2&pd_rd_wg=jqJxf&pf_rd_p=a6d018ad-f20b-46c9-8920-433972c7d9b7&pf_rd_r=SNJX6VEMAQQYQE2J1DA9&qid=1562688841&s=gateway

This is a selection of what I keep in my tech go-bag. You'll build your kit as you learn and build experience, or realize you could have helped a customer out of a jam quicker if you had that tool with you.

• cheap flashlights you wont feel bad about leaving in a ceiling or inside a rack: https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Lights-Super-Bright-White/dp/B00I45JKTA/
  
  
• torx screwdriver for lots of little devices. I have a similar set and it's pretty decent: https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Magnetic-Precision-Screwdriver-Electronics/dp/B015F734P0/
  
  
• power supply tester
  
  
• rechargable canned air
  
  
• zip ties
  
  
• velcro: https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Cable-Fastening-Tape-Yards/dp/B00FT2WHO6/
  
  
• leatherman/gerber multi-tool (needlenose) convenient when you need to do something quick and you don't have your bag with you.
  
  
• Set of pliers/wire cutters (leave the chanel locks at home): https://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-4-Piece-Traditional-2078707/dp/B000CFMCTK/
  
  
• sharpies
  
  
• electrical tape: the good kind not the cheapo stuff
  
  
• multi-screwdriver: https://www.amazon.com/Lenox-Tools-23932-Multi-Tool-Driver/dp/B0013NX2DA/
  
  
• cordless electric screwdriver if you have lots of screwing to do.
  
  
• razor knife: https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Lite-Pocket-Knife-31-000345/dp/B002RILCLY/
  
  
• cable tester/tone generator: https://www.amazon.com/ELEGIANT-Multifunction-Tracker-Measuring-Instrument/dp/B01HCQSHNG/
  
  
• analog phone for testing phone lines: https://www.amazon.com/Saytay-Telephone-Lineman-Tester-Connectors/dp/B01ABT7458/
  
  
• punch down tool: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/
  
  
• cable crimper: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-RJ-45-RJ-12-RJ-11-TC-CT68/dp/B0000AZK4G/
  
  Various extra parts I've accumulated over the years like screws, ATX Molex Power to SATA Power Adapters, ATX Molex Y splitters, SATA cables etc..
  
  Good luck and some tools overlap like multi tools and pliers so if budget is low, go with the tool that covers the most jobs.
  
  Edit: I noticed your bag is kind of expensive compared to something like a Dewalt tool bag. I use a plain Dewalt bag which is not as cool as the one in the link, but it's just as tough. This might be a good and less expensive consideration for you if you don't require the look of a briefcase for your tool bag.
  
  Edit 2: You may want to mark your tools with a wrap of some crazy bright color electrical tape to be able to recognize them when they walk away.
  
  
  

It happens. Pin vises aren't too bad, and neither are brushes depending on what you are looking for. Army painter brushes are good, but they are probably not the best bang for your buck, I just like them because they work for me and I am comfortable with the sizes.

This is one of the two pin vises that I have and the same bit collection. There are plenty of options for everything, though, and if you take it slowly you will amass quite a collection of models and tools. I think limiting your warhammer budget is a good idea too- that way you actually PAINT the models you get and they don't just sit around.

Although on earlier MacBook Pros the audio jack had both output and input contacts, on the 2018 (which I own) it is only listed as a "headphone jack" and not under inputs. I thought I might have read that they changed this at some point. So I have some doubts as to whether you can get audio in through the headphone jack.

If you find a cable that makes it work as an input, then I am wrong about that. But there are other things to consider.

Traditional turntables output an RIAA signal which is not suitable for normal line input. Those require a "phono preamp" to transform the signal into line level for Line In ports on audio equipment (and for Macs that have a real Line In). But if you have a turntable with a built-in phono preamp or already connected one, ignore this paragraph. If you need one, they are relatively inexpensive.

If you find out that you can't use the headphone jack as an input, your other option is to use a USB audio interface. This would have analog audio jacks for the incoming signal, and a USB port to connect to a USB port on your Mac. It would show up as an input source in your Mac Sound system preference pane. While there are many USB audio interfaces out there, if you need a phono preamp make sure that is included.

If you realize you need a USB audio interface, this is an example of what I mean and it's less than $30. I do not know how good that one is becaue I have a different brand that cost about the same price, but the reviews are positive.

As far as software, GarageBand should be able to do it, if you want something more focused, Audacity is free and widely used for these types of conversions.

Can you not use a pin vice? Pretty much all hobby shops sell them, and they're used for drilling super the super tiny holes needed to pin modified models, etc., with bits available in all sorts of sizes.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001RJE3X8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474249537&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=mini+pin+vise&dpPl=1&dpID=51qOueQLNmL&ref=plSrch

Use some micromesh like this: MicroMesh and then some nice plastic polish after you go through the grits to keep them shiny.

Granted I haven't done this on any dice but I've removed scratches from plexiglass and acrylic this way and its pretty good all said and done.

Yeah that's easy. PB Blaster...by far the best stuff I've ever used at removing bolts or other severly rusted/stuck things(far far better than WD-40)

Just read these reviews...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B000I2079E/ref=mw_dp_cr

Probably not what you want to hear, but you'll probably need to get a new stickbox (desoldering the old one, soldering a new one). It's a straight forward process and hard to mess up, but the cost can be a big factor if you don't already own the equipment.
Video for reference.

Other option would be to just buy another controller off Ebay, open that controller and swap the guts with your old controller.

• Here is a [mini tool kit I use to open the controller] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009MKGRQA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that I originally bought to open up my Macbook.
  
• the Triwing Screws on the Gamecube controllers suck, are probably rusted, and strip easily. Replace them with some new Phillips Screws.
  
• Here is a good video by Zenith about opening your controller.
  
  You can find a bunch of results for analog stick boxes on Ebay.
  
  Best of luck!

I have an update on my own blend door problem. Because I'm a glutton for punishment I went ahead and bought the Dorman replacement that I mentioned in my other comment and did it myself instead of taking it to Ford. I can confirm that the Dorman part is significantly heavier, physically thicker and higher quality than the OEM unit. The gear set is in a slightly different arrangement and the gears themselves are more robust. I can also confirm the overall shitty quality of the OEM part.

The install wasn't quite a nightmare, but it was challenging. I used this video as reference though I didn't have to take the driver's seat out. I also had this handy mini ratchet which was absolutely perfect for the job along with a T20 bit. Now the tricky part which I wasn't quite sure of going in: I switched the car on and turned off the HVAC assuming that doing so would put the actuator in some sort of parked position. This probably isn't necessary since it likely goes back to the same position when the car is turned off. Anyway, after removing the OEM blend door I noted which position the output shaft was in. There's a little arrow on the casing that part of the gear lined up with. The new unit's output shaft wasn't in the same orientation. So, I plugged the Dorman unit in but didn't install it, turned the car on and switched the HVAC on and off to put the new unit in the same position as the OEM one. After that I noticed the output shaft still wasn't in the correct orientation. So, I had to open it up and take out one of the drive gears so I could reorient the output shaft. Once I did this the new unit slid into position pretty easily and I tested it out and BAM, no noise and the climate control works as expected. Now to see if this one lasts longer than 13,000 miles but after seeing the two parts together I really think it will. Hope this helps someone!

Edit: So I've got everything in one place for people stumbling across this here's the link to the Dorman part. It is Dorman 604-400 Air Door Actuator replacing OE part BE8Z19E616B

I had really good luck with light sanding, and then burnishing with the aluminum handle of an x-acto knife.

I've also had SUPER smooth results with the wood-fill using sanding/polishing sponges. (https://smile.amazon.com/MICRO-MESH-SOFT-TOUCH-SANDING/dp/B000H6EC4C)

I have all of the resources booked marked and ready to go. Plan on starting this project when Spring rolls in. Hope these helps!

Hand drill I purchased:

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Micro-Drill-Vise-Chuck/dp/B001RJE3X8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1451452019&sr=8-3&keywords=pin+vise

Magnetizing guides:

http://macharianthunderguard.blogspot.com/2015/09/kingdom-death-monster-unboxing-and.html

http://roguepainter.com/kingdom-death-survivor-magnetization-tutorial/

Magnets I plan on purchasing (also used in the guides):

1x1mm

^ Woops the 1x1mm I linked are sold out. But you can look up and buy any 1x1mm neodymium magnets on ebay.

1x2mm

2x2mm

I always bring a few items to every show I do to prevent those "oh shoot!" moments:

• Leatherman Wave- I love this multitool. I'd recommend the extra bit kit as well. It all fits in the included sheath.
  
• Sound Tools Sniffer Sender, available in many flavors.
  
• Electronics tool kit, any brand with a similar assortment of bits will do.
  
• QBox, as others have mentioned. It is so incredibly useful and while it is pricey, there is no alternative that I'm aware of that will do what it does and saves my ass like it does.
  
• SD Card 16-32GB, as well as a 64GB flash drive for last minute file transfers. Be careful what format you choose for the flash drive- pick something that will work across as many computers/mixers/recorders as possible. Research what gear you use and see what format they accept. As a rule of thumb, don't store vital or long term files on the SD card because it will likely get formatted for every use because each device is different.
  
• Backup battery pack for charging phones (10,000 mAh+) – this works well for powering many 5v items like converters and some small DA's
  
• Gender benders- Male to Male, Female to Female
  
• Ibuprofen - more of a "gig bag" item than a WTF kit item, but I always bring some with me in a small travel size pill container.
  
• Head Lamp. It is so useful to have. When I don't need it, I hang it around my neck if my kit isn't nearby.
  
• Batteries in dedicated caddy. I keep half and half alkaline and Ikea LADDA rechargeable AA's as well as 4 9v cells with me.
  
• One or two backpack rain covers. One for my pack, and one for a small piece of equipment on stage that needs to covered in a hurry. The elastic around the outside helps it stay secured.
  
• Phone charger and additional USB cables. I bring two Lightning cables for my Apple devices, but I also bring a USB Mini B and USB Micro B just in case.
  
  Ninja edit for links and more detail.

If you do electronics stuff fairly regularly, I'd recommend one of the ifixit kits. They're kinda pricy but really high quality bits.


You can get cheaper ones that are still pretty good like this screwdriver kit for $15, https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Screwdriver-Professional-Precision-Smartphone/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1525454044&sr=8-4&keywords=Screwdriver+kit

Or if you want one with every little tool you could ever possibly need this is a good deal for $35. https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Precision-Screwdriver-Magnetic-Electronics/dp/B06Y2N568J/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1525454044&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=Screwdriver+kit&psc=1&smid=A2FOADTO08BQD0

Just don't get one of the sub $10 kits that come with all sorts of extra junk, those bits and tools are really low quality in my experience.

Yes! A few options...

1. Grab the mini kreg jig: here
   
   
2. Countersink and drive screws into the rungs from the outside of the main boards. Be sure to use wood glue before screwing. It will also be hard to keep the rungs in place doing it this way, so just take your time.
   
   
3. The last option would be to only use wood glue and clamps (or heavy items such as paint buckets). Glue the first board to the rungs, let it dry completely, then flip it over and glue/clamp the second board to the rungs. Just make sure you don't overload the thing because it won't have any hardware or advanced joinery holding it together!
   
   Hope that helps!

I would highly recommend a Kreg Jig. This little thing is super useful for making quality furniture. If you dont want to get that I would recommend clamps. You always need clamps.

I'm in about the same situation as you. I'm making really small/simple stuff right now. ex, a planter box outside, a super simple and plain book case. Thus far, the most useful thing I've found is a Kreg Pocket hole jig. it's like $20-40 and it makes joining lumber at right angles soooo much easier. Dowel joints and biscuits are a pain and I'm in the same situation as you as far as buying a router and table or a table saw. Plus I'm in an apartment so space is a huge issue and storing a table based tool is just not feasible.

https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465410628&sr=8-1&keywords=Kreg

As everyone is pointing out the need for drainage, it can be done very easily by anyone with just a regular power drill and one of these kinds of bits.

Pour a little water on the surface you're drilling into and wear eye protection (as you should be doing when you're drilling anything anyway!) Let the bit do the work and you'll get nice, clean holes pretty quickly.

My first job as a mechanic was working on mostly pre-'86 cars and trucks. My boss handed me a can of this awesome stuff called PB Blaster and since then, I always give rusty bolts a good soaking in it before making attempt. I have never broken a bolt off since and all I work on are '60's and '70s Mopars and frequent junkyards. I hope this helps

Amazing work sir! It turned out fantastic.

EDIT: Check out the Kreg Jig . $40 and well with it! Also on Amazon.

What you are describing sounds like this:
GearWrench 9008 1/4-Inch Combination Ratcheting Wrench by Apex Tool Group http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYD44/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_YDS0tb09EZ2G5

But this may be a better fit:
Neiko 03044A Mini Ratcheting Screwdriver and Bit Set, Pocket Size Close-Quarters ,1/4-Inch Drive by Neiko http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XYOUS6/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_8FS0tb012H4Q2

Hope this helps!

These are good too: https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIPPER-Pushblock-Router-Jointers-MICROJIG/dp/B001I9UNWC

They can hold the peice and the offcut so that helps prevent kickback.

Take your time, cut slowly and keep your eye on the blade as if you push the price through to fast it won't like it.

Practice makes perfect. Good luck
Edit: spelling

There are a couple ways to do this.

If you want to do it quickly and don't really care about how the details look, get a Kreg jig (I use this one) and put it together with pocket holes.

If you want something that looks nicer than pocket holes, use a sliding dovetail for the top joint and a lock rabbet for the bottom.

Are you going to put a back and/or a face frame on this? As it appears now, you're not going to have a very strong piece. Adding either or both would add strength.

I noticed that the writing edge has a slight curvature to it. Did you use a squishy surface like a "pad" to do the grind or something with a solid surface like a stone? I've found that pads don't make the writing surface fully flat and you might want to try with a solid grinding surface in case you want to try on a steel nib in the future. I've found my results to be far better on my whetstone compared to my micromesh pads

This thing has been great: https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIPPER-Pushblock-Router-Jointers-MICROJIG/dp/B001I9UNWC

I feel so much safer using it than I did using crappier push-sticks. The videos really show how you can use safely, and it's quick and easy to adjust.

I second Wiha! I have many other cheap sets, got this set for my bday: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002PJ3IYE/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1368322598&sr=8-4&pi=SL75

It is the Best set I have ever used! Quality steel that I can't strip, perfect size bits for a perfect fit.

I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSS5NO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They work great, just remember to spritz with water often while you drill so you don't strip the bit! I'd suggest watching a few youtube videos so you can get a good idea of how to do the actual drilling part, but it's super easy and I have yet to wreck a pot while drilling a hole.

I don't think you need much more out of a pocket hole jig than that. Unless you're a production shop that is making a ton of cabinet face frames, I think a pocket hole jig should be unintrusive, flexible, and convenient.

Actually, I think this one is better because you get much more flexibility in how you can use it. It's easier to make holes at weird angles to the edge, and to fit into tight spaces.

I just drilled my own holes for the first time yesterday! I was in the same spot, so many pretty pots but no drainage. I bought this set off Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00823A-Diamond-Drill-Piece/dp/B00ODSS5NO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=diamond+drill+bits&qid=1564513905&s=gateway&sprefix=diamond+dri&sr=8-3
I drilled 3 different pots yesterday and it was super quick and easy. The world will be your oyster!

hey friends! would either of these be good for switch lube? going for hako clears/tealios if that matters, thanks!

edit: canadian, so id have to pay an arm and a leg for krytox/tribosys

edit2: or if you have other suggestions, im open to them!

Not op, but it is not hard at all. Just takes some common sense and the proper tools. I highly recommend this pocket ratchet off Amazon. It is very helpful with the tight spaces. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XYOUS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LnC6Cb0ZVA1PR

This kit is only $27 shipped and has all the magnets you'll need unless you really go nuts - then you might have to get some more of the middle size eventually.

You also need a pin vice drill

But if you really can't wait, just go really easy with super glue on the arm joints - as that is typically where you magnetize. I'll get some pics here in a sec and update this post.

EDIT Ok here's a quick and dirty magnet album so you can get a good idea of which spots to magnetize. On the Thunderwolves I magnetized the rider in the ass so I can transport them easier. The arms are magnetized for weapon swapping. I also magnetized the backpack of any dude that might ever equip a Jump Pack (blood claws can quickly become sky claws, rune priests are great with jump packs so they can deep strike and psych). Dreadnought arms are pretty obvious. I also magnetized the hand on my battle leader using the smallest magnet size so I could give him a plasma pistol or a combi weapon.

Yesss. I use my grill pan. Buying two tofu presses was the best decision I ever made. The ToFuture ones are great because after pressing you can marinate in the same container. I make two blocks at a time because it’s kind of a process and I like to have leftovers.

Dunno what country you're in, but the appropriate name for the tool to hit these screws is called a "Close quarters ratcheting screwdriver", and can be had for ~$10 for a pretty good one.

I have one like this.

I have the round and the square from Rockler. Now that I have a decent set of bowl gouges (and I'm focusing mainly on bowls) I don't really use them much any more. I have found that I can get a much better (smoother) surface from a shearing cut. I very much prefer this to the surface you get with the scraping cut you must use with most carbide tools of this shape. That said, I'm keeping mine for the occasions that I need to do some spindle work.

In hindsight, I'm not sure I would have bought them if I had it to do over again. I started with a standard $70 amazon set of old school chisels (see below). I wish I had skipped straight from that to the good stuff (some examples listed below).

Apologies if this next section is a little pedantic. I was hoping to write something we could link from the sidebar.

So here's my recommendation:

Step | Description | URL

------|:------|:------|
1 | Find some cheap (but not crappy) tools. | amazon link
1a | Figure out how to sharpen things. |
2 | Experiment, figure out what works, figure out what kind of turning you want to be doing. | Join the AAW, Find tutorials on youtube.com, take classes at your local woodworking store, etc.
3 | Find great tools. You don't want to spend a ton of time working with crappy tools. | when possible all my future tools will be from this guy: http://d-waytools.com/tools-gouges.html I also have tools from Sorby, Pinnacle, DWay, etc.

Had that happen to me as well. Trickier to fix than the circle pad, but still doable. Might I recommend:

• Replacement triggers for, depending on your console, the 3DS or 3DSXL (don't order the wrong one like I did)
  
• Precision Screwdriver Kit
  
• Tutorials

Try searching for "Torx Tamper Resistant" or "Torx TR8" instead of "Torx Security", you might find better results.

I got this set of Amazon: TEKTON 2830
It's cheap and you get bits for pretty much any popular electronic device.

I don't see anything called a "dremel pen". Maybe you mean something like this?

Dremel Flex Shaft Rotary Tool Attachment with Comfort Grip and 36" Long Cable- 225-01- Engraver, Polisher, and Sander- Ideal for Detail Metal Engraving, Wood Carving, Sanding, and Jewelry Polishing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000302Y8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QG-JDb0MBRBF1

Just did this myself.

A couple tips.

Here's the clear shell: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B075JJ2KH5

Get this screwdriver kit: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009MKGRQA

Precision tweezers also help a lot.

You'll need 3 bits out of that kid and the little plastic tool that comes with it.

• The screws are very soft and very easy to strip so tighten only until you feel it requiring a little force, then stop.
  
  
• Again, barely tighten anything because if it's even slightly too tight, once you get it all back together the buttons will either be mushy (no click feeling) or won't press at all. The shoulder button screw is what gave me that issue. Once you get it all back together, just clip the back shell on but don't screw it. Slide the Joycon back on the Switch and hold it like your would normally play - even pushing it into the switch a little. Make sure the shoulders still make that clicky feeling.
  
  
• Remember which screw goes into which hole. It matters.
  
  
• When removing or replacing the battery, don't use any metal tweezers. Just use your fingers gently and that plastic tool above to plug it back in. You don't want a short.
  
  
• This is the most important thing I can say: exercise caution when removing and reinstalling the shoulder button (the large one). The momentary switch/button (the actual button) under it is very fragile. I used a little force to get the shoulder button back on and it barely pushed into the momentary switch under and basically sheared the momentary switch and housing off. I had to get a replacement.
  
  
• When it comes to warranty worries, there are no stickers or anything and this is easily reversible.
  
  
  That's it!

No mate you won't need any additional cables, the motherboard willo come with SATA cables and your power supply will come with the necessary power cables. Do have a screw driver set such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015F734P0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It has a number of attachments that can always prove handy and more so, it's magnetized and will make your life easy when dealing with the little screws. And no a magnetic screwdriver such as that one won't damage anything, the magnetic field is too mild!

Good luck on your build and do write in again if you're stuck at any point. Cheers!

there are at least 2-3 of this (almost) exact model with different brands floating around on Amazon, most likely sourced from China.

The one good thing this has is a "flex shaft" which I've purchased individually and higher quality versions of.

It is really helpful for getting impossible to reach spaces (like inside a PC case) or anything around your house.

And for you Dremel fans, Dremel has a nice flex shaft extension:

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-225-01-Flex-Shaft-Attachment/dp/B0000302Y8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1491852439&sr=8-5&keywords=flex+shaft

if you're talking about the rubber on the joystick, you find find replacement joysticks on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Gamecube-Replacement-Analog-Yellow-Replaces-Controller/dp/B004H7P0B6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421534140&sr=8-1&keywords=gamecube+joystick However, in order to open the controller, you need a tri-wing screwdriver: http://www.amazon.com/Tri-wing-Screwdriver-Nintendo-Gamecube-Gameboy/dp/B000S6AG9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421534165&sr=8-1&keywords=triwing+screwdriver Although, I would recommend not getting if from this seller (Just wanted to show the type of screwdriver needed). While it is cheap, a lot of people have waited 6+ weeks for it and nothing from the seller (me included). I would recommend buying this handy tool kit: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2830-Everybit-Electronics-Precision/dp/B009MKGRQA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421534165&sr=8-2&keywords=triwing+screwdriver replacing the joystick isn't that hard, everything fits into place

It's normal. Happens on more expensive watches too. Yes, you can try to polish them out, but you may need something more aggressive than cape cod. (I've used small jeweler's polishing pads like these to great effect https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H6EC4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_q8RMDb9WW3A5Q)

I reccomend you be more aware of your watch and try to not bump it if these concern you.

GC here who specializes in decks/rails.

First, get yourself this Pocket Hole Jig (this things is worth every freaking penny), and get some blue kreg 2-1/2" pocket screws from home depot/lowes.

Then add one more layer to your current picture. So you should have 2x4 on bottom, then 1x2, then pickets, 1x2, 2x4 on top, then optional 2x6 for something a little nicer. Doing it this way allows you to place the bottom 2x4 first, then assemble the pickets/1x2s as one unit that you can place on top of 2x4, with final 2x4 on top. Use the pocket hole jig on the ends of the 2xs to attach to posts. this will create an amazingly strong railing. attach pickets to 1x2s using 3 or more 15/16 guage trim nails.

Pic 1
Pic 2
Pic 3

If you zoom in on pic 2 enough on the top, you can see the pocket holes. I filled these in with plastic plugs made by kreg, if its being painted, you could also use their pine ones which make an almost invisible seam.

Also, I HIGHLY recommend using KDAT (Kiln Dried After Treatment) wood. if you don't, the wood will expand/contract after installation causing all of your joints to come undone. its also paint ready as soon as youre done. no need to wait until it dries. Find a specialty retailer for good woods, I'm particular to Madison Woods, pricey, but worth it.

This. They sound super handy but in actuality mine spends most of its time in a drawer. But, I have many other tools like an actual angle grinder, pneumatic cut-off tool, sander, etc. so if I didn't already have these it might see more use.

The flexible shaft attachment has saved my butt a handful of times when I needed to grind/drill off something in a tight area.

Soak it up really well with a penetrating lubricant. I'm fond of PB Blaster and Knock 'er Loose. Soak it well over several days. Then, gently heat the outer section with a torch, and twist.

Alternatively, you can use a jack to separate them. You'll need a way to attach to both sections, with a grip of some sort, then just use the jack to drive them apart.

I highly recommend the Wiha 77790 Ultra Driver Multi Tool. Be sure to read the comparison chart to understand the different bit combinations available. I use the Tradesman model.

If you need something a little smaller consider the Wiha 75093 16 Piece System 4 ESD Slotted, Phillips and Torx Micro Bit Set either on its own or in addition.

If you’re looking for a good set of precision drivers I recently acquired the Xiaomi Wiha Precision Screwdriver Set, 24 Magnetic Driver Bit Set, Pocket Screwdriver Tool Set, Mini Screwdriver Kit, Repair Tool Kit for Electronics and am very pleased with them. If you’re willing to wait and run the risk of receiving a counterfeit product, you can also find this set (as I did) on Ali Express for a few less dollars.

FWIW I carried pocket knives on the NYC Subways for over 20 years without once attracting attention.

Aside from the increase in tension caused by larger strings the second most important variable is the state of your frets.

If the surface of your frets are chattered/scratched/rough that means when you bend a string you're forcing it over all of those little peaks and valleys in the surface of the fret material which adds resistance and makes bending feel difficult and rough and not nice at all.

Compare that experience to bending over freshly polished frets and you'll never go back.

If you've never had the guitars frets cleaned up you can do this task yourself with some masking tape and a set of sandpaper/pads that go to a really high grit count. The highest grit count pads in those sets feel like leather.

Mask off the fretboard if you're worried about sanding any material there and just start from the low grit up to the high buffing out all the wear and tear on the frets, focusing your attention on long strokes along the length of each individual fret (so the scratches you're introducing follow the path of a bent string...) and keep going until they shine like mirrors.

I like to finish mine with some metal polish and a polishing wheel on a dremel to really bring out the mirror finish (with the fretboard masked off and the body protected, of course).

Keep in mind this is a reductive process (you're removing material...) so if the fret tops are already very worn and flat rather than round you're probably going to want to just do the whole process and do a full fret level+crown+polish which really just means buying a few more tools so you flatten all frets so they're perfectly level with one another, then restore their rounded top (crown), then polish them as above.

Stainless steel frets will also resist the wear and make it so you don't have to do this nearly as often.

I know Foredom is (or was) the "go to" option for woodcarvers and others doing similar work - but like all high-end tools, it comes with the price tag. Likely to last forever, but also might be overkill for model-making.

I ended up getting the flex shaft for the Dremel:

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-225-01-Flex-Shaft-Attachment/dp/B0000302Y8

Does the job, and easier than holding the Dremel for fine work. You can get the adjustable 3-jaw chuck on there, otherwise it has a chuck with interchangeable inserts.

Does all I need it to do in terms of sanding, grinding, drilling, etc - and was a cheap option as I already had the Dremel, which may not be a factor for you. You then have the option of using the Dremel as a handheld tool for other jobs.

I have some of this. I'll give it a try. I feel like I was hitting it pretty hard but I was definitely afraid of damaging something. I could definitely hit harder. Thanks for the response.

I strongly suggest looking into the Pocket Screw jig systems. There are many jigs available from makers like Kraig (expensive) to Harbor Freight. (cheap but functional if you are careful) Amazing for both carcass and face frames. Lost of videos on the Tube about this.
Built custom oak cabinets in a professional shop for several years and we used a Kraig Jig. The sweet thing is that once you glue up and screw down the joint, you can take the clamps off and use them on the next setup.
(Links for example only - NOT affiliate) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jvzaGtMsQyY
https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482774269&sr=8-3&keywords=pocket+hole+jig+kreg

Ooh it's four dollars! Ordered. Super Lube 51010 Oil Super Lube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EdI0DbKX6MN0W

Wiha Tools makes the best micro screwdriver bits around, and some of their products are available on Amazon. If I were in your shoes I'd buy this

My personal solution is to keep a Leatherman Wave with a Leatherman pocket clip in my EDC backpack along with a Leatherman Bit Kit that I've modified with a Nite Ize pocket clip and some gorilla tape. Anytime I need to do some screw driving I just clip the wave and bits onto my pocket and they're incredibly accessible.

Wow! At first I thought the branch was real until I read your comment about the leaves being maple with green sharpie.

Do you ever use one of those dremel flex shaft attachments? Like these: https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-225-01-Flex-Shaft-Attachment/dp/B0000302Y8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dremel+attachment&qid=1557652236&s=gateway&sr=8-3

When you get around to it you should definitely treat yourself. Hex ratchets are total game changers. They work super fast and they are way better for hard to reach bolts. They also make assembling IKEA furniture a breeze.

This one is only $9 and gets good reviews. No tire lever but totally worth having in the toolbox.

Kreg Pocket Jig is a little guide that lets you drill and secure a board to another board using pocket screws. This means that if you have two sides of an arcade cabinet, in your awesome arcade shape, you'll be able to affix boards to the inside face of the sides easily. So basically you'll be able to easily and sturdily connect your two sides together, making your frame.

Text will not do the job here, you should look up Kreg Jig on youtube and watch it in action, it will be worth a thousand words.

My assumption is you're going to make shaped sides from plywood (with a jigsaw or similar), then connect them with trusses, using pocket screws, then cover the trusses with plywood. That will give you your cabinet, though the screen and electronics mounting won't be trivial, and I (unfortunately!) can't help you with the electronics.

I tend to want to stay away from vapor polishing.

I prefer prime and sand. If you don't want paint though: Get what's called "micromesh". They're little sponges that comes in small/large pads, sticks, files, and other shapes and range from like 1000 grit to silky smooth 12,000. You just soak them in water then sand your way up through the grits. You can get a honest to goodness mirror finish on your parts that way.

I got this set and they're great

Just a suggestion, [this:] (https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2830-Precision-Electronic-27-Piece/dp/B009MKGRQA/ref=sr_1_6?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1468693084&sr=8-6&keywords=tekton+tools) is a good investment. I've used it for smartphones, laptops, DSLR cameras, Xbox remotes, and more, but like others are saying, on ebay you might get lucky and find a listing with a screw driver included, or just flat out find it cheaper.

This kit comes with lots of tips, extenders, a case, and another tool which I haven't found a use for yet, all for $11. You might even be able to find it cheaper somewhere else!

It depends on the quality. I have a couple sets from Wiha ranging from $15-50, but you certainly don't need to buy ones that nice. I bought a couple of these sets to give to people last year. I kept one for myself and it is percectly fine.

Try a different lube, like PB blaster

Try to intentionally apply pressure in the "ON" direction. Sometimes it will break free enough while tightening to come loose.

Try hitting the crank arm while trying to loosen/tighten. A rubber mallet or deadblow would be best.

If the above still does not work only then would I start methods that may cause damage... like more force or heat.

this drill press attachment looks like your best option for me. Since you are doing a grid a standard drill press will not work. I'd say its either this for $25, or a cnc for $2500.

http://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA

WD-40 is great for some things, like moisture displacement and cleaning rust. It is not a penetrant, so it won't eat it's way into the corrosion (if there is much) on the threads.

PB Blaster is technically a penetrating catalyst, it's entire purpose is to penetrate into things and allow you to break them loose more easily. It actually pulls itself into the crevices and lubes things that WD-40 would never get to.

You need to use a screw extractor.

If you've lead a good clean life (and it looks like you haven't) it will come right out.

If you don't want to buy the tool or don't have the drill to use it with just go to your LBS. Any competent one should be able to do this for you for a rather small charge.

If you have reason to suspect the screw is in there real good start applying PB Blaster or other penetrating oil now. Do whoever will be removing it a favor and get penetrating early. WD-40 is not a good penetrating oil.

I haven’t tried yet, myself. I’m going to get some of these , I think. Also, as I understand it, you want to go slow & frequently cool things down with water. Good luck!

I have one! This one to be exact! I really recommend it if you like the convenience/eat a bit of tofu. It does take more time than using books but no more paper towels/towels. It's easy to clean and I never have to worry about my Harry Potter books falling off the counter.

This stuff is your friend when it comes to rust. One can has lasted me awhile.

Spray that on the rusted area and let it sit for a day or two for best results. Get a wrench that fits on the bolt, and take a hammer to the end of the wrench. There are better and safer ways to break free a rusted bolt (impact hammer/wrench) but this is the cheap way.

Check out a pocket jig kit. They are about $40 on Amazonhttps://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W?th=1&psc=1
Add a drill, some wood glue, and a few clamps and you can build a nice flat desk that shouldn't buckle or warp. bottem of my desk.

Good luck

http://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1416019787&sr=8-2&keywords=sontax+drill

No comments on drill bushings, but I have something nearly identical to the linked guide, and with a better (corded) drill I think it'd be fairly accurate. I've only used it for rough work (deliberately). Might be worth considering. Certainly cheaper than bridge city stuff.

Here's some tools for turning. PSI Woodworking LCHSS8 Wood Lathe HSS Chisel Set, 8Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KI8CTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WgDVDbX2HTGM3 It's 70, but they have good reviews. But if you shop around for the same sort of keywords, and check reviews, you can find something good.

This may seem dumb, but would you guys recommend this over the Vastar set? I was thinking having the flexible shaft and a few more bits might be useful in some of my builds.

u/housecat420 I dunno if you're still looking for an answer to this, but roughly seconding the answer above. I'm running my turntable into this Behringer USB/Audio interface with phono preamp, into a USB OTG cable with power, into an old Android (in this case a OnePlus One) running AirAudio. The phone isn't fully rooted, just developer options set to allow AirAudio root access. AirAudio source set to mic like u/goodhur mentioned. Works really well so far.

yes. i have a couple. my favorite is https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01698J0RU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_W4zUCbCPDR5D5
because it is easy to use

Tofu press!! Like this one . Works way better than paper towels with none of the waste.

Edit: scratch that first link the UK version is like £40!!! This one is more reasonably priced the only downside is that it presses less tofu at a time.

Backs are easier than fronts... but make sure you have something like this to screw in the backs.

The part the instructions didn’t help:
After I figured out how the S clips go on in the most illogical way, everything else is easy... also, don’t forget the spacers in the front!

A new screen and back cover would be $68 from eBay, I just replaced the battery in mine and it's awesome, went from around 4 hrs of screen on time to 8 hrs. You can get a new screen and frame from eBay here for $57.66, and you can get a new back cover from $10.33-$19.51 (depending on color) here is Metallic Red, Black, and here's Ballistic Nylon Black, and Blue. I'm also assuming that you haven't replaced your battery either so here's the battery from Amazon for $12.98 if you want that too. If you don't have small screwdrivers/bits then you'll need to buy a cheap "mobile" work kit, I used this one from Texton for $9.24. It might seem easier to just buy a new phone, but there's nothing that really compares to the Turbo, I would also watch this video from JerryRigEverything on repairing the device before purchasing anything. The fact that the screen comes with the frame will make replacing the screen easier and you won't have to worry about applying adhesive or removing the frame from the old display, and there's a lot of adhesive holding the back cover on, when I replaced the battery I removed all of it and nothing is shaking around or loose. So for a new screen, frame, back cover, battery, and tools, it would be $90.21.

Looks like oxidization, and the smell is a normal part of that process.

Soak it well with alcohol (cover any logos/painted areas on stem with vaseline), then start to sand off the oxidization using micro-abrasive pads. You can get a set from amazon that works well. For bad oxidation, maybe start with some 600 grit paper and then go to the pads. Once you work up to the highest grit, and the oxidation is all gone, the stem will look and smell new.

They are a great tool for restoring old, oxidized pipes.

But if you don't want to do that, then I'd just return the pipe if possible.

The expert advice is to not buy a set but to instead only buy chisels for what you'll be doing. However if you're exploring turning you really don't know the exact kinds of turning you'll be doing, and you'll always be reading about oddball tools/techniques that you'll want to try.

So I'd advise a starter set that has at least one of each major tool type. This one fits that bill pretty well, I started out with it an still use everything but the "continental gouge".

I have a Wiha Micro Bit Ratchet Set on my "Expensive Shit" Wishlist. It would make my life easier when I'm working on whatever laptop/desktop/gadget/etc. I have in front of me. I've been wanting something like this for a while, but haven't had a chance to buy it yet.

I already have this tool, but the ratchet set has way more going on! PLUS, getting the ratchet set would allow me to give this to someone I know who needs one.

Win-Win!

Thanks for the contest!

I would probably try to make a jig that incorporates a drill guide.

Basically, use scrap wood to knock together some kind of cradle to hold your blank perfectly horizontal, then find a way to mount the drill guide onto the cradle, rigidly and at perfect right angles, then drill away.

/u/MrVinceyvince

if the bit isn't in this kit I wouldn't know what to do myself...haven't found one yet....there is very few "electronic" security screw bits this does not have if any.
best $12-14 you will ever spend towards taking things apart.

Amazon
Vastar 62 in 1

https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Magnetic-Precision-Screwdriver-Smartphone/dp/B015F734P0/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1503977321&sr=8-6&keywords=electronic+screwdriver+set

Yes, that should work, but I would highly recommend a different Behringer, the UFO202. It has the phono preamp, as well as a DAC for stereo input, and stereo output, and a headphone amplifier. I have been using an earlier version since the Pi 1B days.
Just plug the turntable into it, and it's USB into the Pi.

I don't think the phono pre amp will help for your particular use case, while you may need a pre amp, its not going to help with the mixing of sounds. If I understand correctly you want computer sounds mixed with the vinyl player output. Some have recommended a line mixer which I'm sure is a valid option however it is another thing cluttering up the desk. Something most people don't consider is that windows has a way to do this natively. If you were to hook up your record player via usb (if it has it) or through a phono USB interface like that you can listen to that recording device, mixing it in with windows sounds.

I'll never fault someone for erring on the side of caution, and it only has to save you once for the 2k to be worth it, but all you really need is something like this - where the blade passes under the tool.

Best? Probably not. We've been firm believers in the Husky ones where I used to work: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-in-1-Precision-Slotted-and-Philips-Screwdriver-Set-71281H/204664388

I used to take laptops apart for hours every day, it always seemed to do me well. I slighly preferred their older style (looked like this)

Basically they work well until they get lost, and they're cheap enough to just repurchase.

I also used this at another job: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009MKGRQA

Not amazing quality, but I liked the selection of bits. Also cheap.

Hey man, looks way better than anything I could build at 15. But since you're asking for some constructive criticism, I'll give a few suggestions.

The one thing I really don't like is the screws on the bottom legs. There are lots of different ways to do this, with varying levels of difficulty.

First would be just counter sinking the screw then filling the hole with wooden buttons. You can pick up a usable set of counter sink bits at harbor freight for $7

Second might be pocket holes. You can get a jig for ~40 bucks. Honestly, this might not be the best option for you. For the price, you could get a lot of other more useful tools.

Third might be a [mortise and tenon joint] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBodzmUGtdw&t=3s). You can make these by hand with a decent hand saw and some chisels, and square. But it its very hard to do without a vise, which is pricey. Also takes a bit more effort and skill. You can also make them with power tools.


You could have made the cutouts for the seat slats a little cleaner. If you get a combo square and chisels. You don't need fancy chisels. These are decent starter chisels if you learn [how to sharpen] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ki8tt-VjwqI).