(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best power tool parts & accessories

I'll start with the basics.

First - decide on what you actually want to do. Plan out your mods and your paint job. If you're having trouble getting inspiration, Google image search the name of your blaster + "paint job" for ideas. That what I did, and I saw this among the images.
It's Coop772's steampunk DoubleStrike. I decided to base my paintjob off of that one, but using a heavy helping of bright cobalt blue.

Next - Open up your blaster. I like this guy's method of sketching out the blaster and placing the screws approximately where they were, so they don't get mixed up or lost. You can tape any internal parts that aren't getting modded or painted to this sketch as well, to keep them safe.

I suggest either taking detailed pictures of the dis-assembly, or finding some photos online so that you will be able to put your blaster back together correctly later.

Then - Do any modding you are going to do, and sand off the warning text and logos if you want to. You will also need to sand off any paint that is on the blaster that you want to paint over! The base coat we are going to use will NOT stick well to painted surfaces.
Nerf blasters are made of a fairly soft plastic, so I started by using a pocketknife to scrape off the mold lines and much of the text & logos, then moved to sandpaper. Don't use anything coarser than 120 grit. My process was 120 grit - 160 grit - 200 grit - 240 grit - 300 grit - 600 grit polishing paper. I highly recommend the 3M polishing paper; it’s way more flexible than normal sandpaper. You can probably skip the 160 and 240 grit if you don't have them.

After that - Wash all of the parts that are going to be painted. Use hot water and dish soap, and let them dry completely. This is really important, don't skip it. It gets off all of the mold release chemicals, sanding dust, and any grease from the interior of the plunger or from your fingers. If you're in a big rush you can wipe down your parts with 99% rubbing alcohol instead, but be sure to do it outside.

Lastly - Tape off any areas you don't want painted. Blue painter's tape is best here tho regular masking tape will also work, it will just be harder to remove afterward. You don't want paint on the insides of the blaster or any moving parts if you can help it. You can also use the tape to mask out simple designs with the original colors. just be sure to pay attention to where the edges of your tape are and press them down firmly.



FINALLY ON TO THE ACTUAL PAINTING!

The base/primer coat I used is Duplicolor Vinyl Dye. This stuff is amazing, it has solvents that allow for a penetrating bond with the sort of plastic that Nerf uses for their blasters, and it dries to a paper-thin, rock-hard but flexible finish. It's hard to go wrong with the flat black, but if your paintjob is going to be close to one of the other colors then get that one instead. You can find the paint at most auto part stores.
The downsides to vinyl dye are that it is pretty expensive, it will not adhere well to painted surfaces, and it will only work on vinyl-type plastics. The harder plastics - usually ABS - that Buzz Bee and other knock-off use won't work with it. For those I recommend sanding the whole blaster with 600 grit and using a Rustoleum primer.
You want to do this on a warm, dry day. Apply the primer in very, very thin coats. By that I mean that my first coat was just a layer of speckles. Wait a couple of minutes for it to dry between coats. Yes, this will take a while but this paint runs like crazy if you try to put down a solid coat. If you rush it's going to look awful.
When you have good coverage over most of the pieces, concentrate on hitting the areas that are not solidly covered. Once you have full coverage, let the parts dry for a few hours.
If you are going to use any other colors of spray paint, re-tape as necessary for your design, and paint similarly to the basecoat. Drying times will depend on the paint you are using. Once the paint is dry, carefully pull off the tape from anywhere you want to be painted metallic.

Now for the beauty coat! I use acrylic paints in a number of different brands. Generally it's whatever I happen to have around the house (Which as a 34-year old with an art degree, is quite a lot). Despite that, I'll try to give some suggestions for what to buy.
Liquitex are the big boys of the acrylic paint world, and I recommend their paints above anything else. They literally invented the modern water-based acrylic paint. Keep in mind that different colors are made with different pigment substances, so prices may vary by color. If you can't afford their professional-grade paints, the BASICS line are still quite good - for the purposes of painting blasters I recommend the BASICS Matte if you can find it, since it dries to a flat, matte consistency while the Satin stuff tends to hold its texture as it dries. That's useful for fake wood handles but not much else. You should be able to find Liquitex paints at craft/hobby stores as well as dedicated art supply stores.
If you're really too broke for Liquitex, craft paints like Folk Art or Americana are alright, but you are more likely to need many coats or have inconsistencies. Don't buy anything cheaper than that - you'll regret it.

Some general painting tips: For solid colors, paint thin coats and let dry before re-coating. Red and yellow are going to need multiple coats, no matter what. The best bright red and yellow pigments aren't opaque, so it takes several layers to reach opacity.
Keep in mind that mixed colors are always going to be muddier than pure colors out of the tube. You can make a color lighter by adding white but it will lose saturation, becoming more pastel. Likewise, adding black will make it darker but also duller. I suggest small amounts of the complementary color as an alternative to black.

The main painting technique I used here was drybrushing. Drybrushing is great for creating a metallic look. Here are two very good guides to the technique.
The three most important tips - Don't use your favorite brush - drybrushing has a tendency to ruin brushes. Make sure your brush doesn't have any water in it. And if you can still see paint while you are wiping your brush off on the paper towel, you have too much paint on the brush. Keep wiping. Just remember, you can always drybrush more, but once you've done too much, you have to completely repaint the base color and start over.
Drybrushing is messy, so do those parts first. Use metallic paints over your black base coat for "metal" parts of your design. You can do a very light drybrushing of edges for a worn black oxide look, or you can drybrush several layers of metallic paint to get more of a dirty metal effect. (I'm not a huge fan of the mixed-metal steampunk look but it's a good example.)

Let the paint dry. It shouldn't take long since drybrushing uses very thin layers of paint.
After drybrushing your metallics, wash out your brushes, dump out your water, wash out your water cup and get a new palette (or wash it if you're using something reusable). Metallic flake gets into EVERYTHING.

Now pull off the rest of the tape, and lay down a layer of solid color for any other areas. You can also drybrush them to bring out the detail; just use a lighter color than the rest of the area. I don't suggest using white unless the color of that area is very light.
You can also use washes of diluted paint in dark colors to increase the contrast in spots that should be in shadow. I tend to apply it with a brush, and then smear it around and wipe it away from the places it shouldn't be with my fingertips. This is pretty messy, and you might prefer to use a clean, dry brush or a scrap of paper towel.
After all that messy painting, if there are any raised motifs you want to paint, or designs like vines or flames or lettering, it's now time for that. Go ahead and use a good brush - one that can hold a nice flat edge or sharp point - to carefully paint your designs.

Once you are happy with your paintjob - or just sick of messing with it - let it dry overnight.

LAST STEPS! Now that your blaster has a beautiful paintjob, you need to protect it! Once again, I want to suggest Liquitex for this. They have varnishes in both gloss and matte, in both brush-on and spray varieties. In any case, I DON'T recommend Krylon. Their clear coat always has an awful pebbly texture.
Go ahead and give the whole blaster several layers of gloss varnish. Once again, thin layers and patience in letting them dry between coats will ensure a good finish.
If you are using a brush-on varnish, apply it slowly, and just a little at a time. If you notice bubbles, rinse your brush out, dry it off on paper towels, wipe the bubbles off, rinse and dry again, and then get a fresh brushful of varnish to keep going.
Once there is 2-3 coats of gloss varnish on the whole blaster, use a matte or satin varnish on any parts you don't want to be shiny.

Let the blaster dry overnight again.

You're done painting! Use a razor or exacto blade to carefully scrape paint off places it shouldn't be - like the mating edges of the shell - and reassemble your blaster. Don't forget to re-lube the plunger.



Any questions?

> The Lathe:

Sounds like you've got this well under control.

> The Tools:

There are very split camps on tools: replaceable carbide tips vs traditional tools. Personally I think both have a place, but I do feel it's best to start with traditional tools to learn the how and why tools work the way they do. My personal opinion is always to spend the real money on good tools. They don't have to be expensive, but the right tool of the right quality (sharp, of course) will make all the difference in the world. Every try to dig a post hole with a hand trowel? :)

Also don't feel bound by just one brand or type of tool...most of us have lots of tools!

You can go with carbide-tipped tools such as Easy Wood Tools, Simple Woodturning Tools, or other brands. You can make your own for a fraction of the cost to buy.

There are a few of good entry-level HSS sets out there for about $80, such as this frequently recommended set of Benjamin's Best. I also like Hurricane brand tools which I feel are excellent entry-level HSS tools for the money. Either of those would serve you well through the learning curve and a good ways into your turning career.

If you wanted to pick just two higher-end tools, I feel Crown's Pro PM are good for the price. I own several, they're nice, but the handles are a bit short for my knuckle-dragging frame! All you really need for the projects you listed is a skew chisel and a spindle gouge.

Lastly, you could buy some of the popular "buy it for life" tools like Thompson Lathe Tools or D-Way Tools. These are widely considered the upper end of turning tools with each tool running between $55-200 (handles sold separately). Many people who get serious about their hobby end up with these tools because the harder tool steels are more durable.


> The Bench Grinder:

The Rikon 80-805 is the most common good deal for a grinder. Occasionally some other Asia-import will pop up on the scene for a little while, but the Rikon is pretty predictable about going on sale. Also, it comes with two decent wheels to get you started; not all import grinders come with decent wheels.

Eventually you might want to invest in CBN wheels to replace the frangible wheels that come on the grinder, but that's probably down the road for you.

Lots of people use that grinder, I've not heard anything outright bad about it (although some people prefer one with more HP).

> Drill Press?

A cheap drill press will get you there just fine.

The most common alternative is to purchase a 4-jaw chuck, such as the Nova G3 (which requires the appropriate insert), and also a set of pen drilling jaws and a drill chuck for the tailstock. That lets you drill blanks entirely on the lathe (and with better accuracy than a drill press IMO).

The downside is that the 4-jaw chuck, insert, jaws, and drill chuck collectively will cost damn near $200, which is a lot more than a cheap drill press. The upside is that the chuck is exactly what you will need if you decide to get deeper into turning and want to try bowls, boxes, and other things. Many of us already owned or planned to own a chuck, so the only real cost addition was the pen drilling jaws and the drill chuck.

> Pen turning attachments

• Mandrel savers are a separate purchase.
  
  
• Be warned that barrel trimmers are not universal, they come in different sizes and some pen kits use a sleeve to up-size the trimmer to fit the larger tube.
  
  
• You can use epoxy or CA glue, whichever you prefer to glue tubes. If using CA glue, make sure you buy a spray bottle of accelerator so that you can zap the ends to prevent a dripping mess!
  
  
• Any general sandpaper from a home improvement store will work fine, don't need anything fancy or expensive. Quite a few of us purchased the $40 box from Klingspor's which is enough sandpaper to last me several years.
  
  
• A P100 filter dust mask is a good investment as well for safety gear.
  
  
• FINISH: If you plan to use CA glue as your finish, you need a different viscosity (thin) than what you use to glue the tubes (thick). This means you need to buy two different bottles of CA and look into a pack of MicroMesh sanding pads for polishing the CA finish.
  
  If you plan on using something else for the finish, make sure you buy what you need.
  
  
• SAW: You need a way to cut pen blanks and trim off excess waste. If you don't own any cutting tools that are sufficient for the job, a cheap miter box will do the job just fine. Make sure you clamp the box and the blank down well before sawing!

Long post incoming....

So, I don't think I've seen many airbrush discounts. Badger did a nice promotion where you could buy any airbrush for $55 for their 55 year anniversary this summer, but other than that it's kind of hard to find discounts. As far as Prime Day, I doubt they're going to have discounts on airbrushes, that's a pretty niche product they don't really get into. If you want to get started with that, I'd do something like this:

• Paasche D3000R Compressor this is the one I use... it's held up over the past 10 years quite well, painted some ~12,000 points of Marines, Guard, Knights, and Chaos with it.
  
  
• Iwata Neo Airbrush Iwata airbrushes rock... I use an Iwata HP-CS, which is really good, but like 3x more expensive than this. This would be a good starter brush that should do the job though.
  
  
• Airbrush Hood You can put this on your desk and you just spray into it. It has a fan which pulls paint dust through the filter in the back, very important to prevent you from breathing paint and getting colored dust everywhere.
  
  You then need a cleaning pot, some cleaning fluid, and an airbrush hose All told, that's like $300.
  
  Then you need paint, paint brushes, a hobby knife, super glue, a mini hand drill, some small drill bits, sprue cutters, basing materials (cork board, model railroad ballast, etc) and I find a pair of tweezers helpful. That could add up to another $200 in materials (and obviously can cost way more, paint is expensive). So of your $550 budget, you would then have $50 remaining for models... which will buy you one model kit. So if you're looking to get started for $550, I'd probably forget the airbrush for now, and just get paints that can be used with one later. I recommend Vallejo paints. The eyedropper bottles work great for airbrushing, and you can just thin them with water. I haven't met one yet that doesn't work. A paint set like this would set you up nicely for doing an Imperial Guard army.
  
  As far as what army to play... Guard is fun, but if you like the modern military aesthetic, Space Marines might be more what you're after. The new Repulsor Executioner tanks look awesome, and the new Primaris marines are great looking models... some of the best GW has produced. The Guard kits are looking kinda... dated IMO.

I use hard Wave sticks too and love them. They sand very flat (something I liked files for) but are quite gentle on the plastic in terms of deap scratches. BUT for some reason the 800 grit is disconnected like in your link. Anyone know where else you can get it?

In terms of files I have the Tamiya basic , Tamiya fine basic , and a (hopefully) nicer plastic hobby file on order just to try. Files are nice for larger jobs like serious molding flaws (not common in Bandai kits) and the fine ones are OK for nubs but still quite rough compared to any sanding stick. Although, as you know I'm sure, files last forever and require much less effort and time to chew through plastic. I'm hoping the plastic file is the Holy grail and is a good balance. I bought a set of needle files and diamond files from harbor freight and they blow. The trash just don't grip or cut don't waste your $3.

And as a reference I own Revell, squadron , nail buff sticks, and have made my own sticks from automotive sand paper. The nail files are way too rough imo, making my own is a pain, and while the squadron sticks are nice I mainly only used the tri-grit while I used all the Revell except the roughest and are probably the best value imo. I still use the other more flexible kinds but dramatically prefer wave. Wish the 800 grit still were available.

Long post sorry. Hope it helps

Edits: spelling, phrasing, and lots of links

You will hear a lot of varying opinions on this, so I can only share what I've worked with. Sorry for the text wall, I'm just copy/pasting some of my previous comments from other threads haha (lazy but efficient). Long story short, stem work is tedious and frustrating by hand, but worth the work.

Best approach I have found with oxidation is to submerge and soak the stem in a mixture of white distilled vinegar and baking soda. Cheap, natural and non-toxic!! You want the solution to bubble and fizz during the majority of the soak (so use a good amount of baking soda in the bottom of your container and a lot of patience filling it). I will use a pipe cleaner to suspend the stem over a small Mason jar and keep the tenon out of the solution. Make sure you have cleared the airway as much as you can. You will want to see bubbles coming out through the lip as it soaks. You can soak for 1hr to overnight (this soak won't hurt anything)

Wet sand with the flat sodium bicarbonate starting with 400 and progress to 800 grit sandpaper (depending on patience level and depth of oxidation). Finish with micromesh pads (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJC156U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xOjezb9NYZ9K6) Wet sand with flat sodium bicarbonate with first three, and dry sand with the rest). I usually apply olive oil between every 3 pads. :)

I finish with Howard Butcher Block Conditioner (Food grade mineral oil and natural waxes found at Home Depot). Allow it to soak in and buff with a micromesh towel. Others can use just olive oil or carnauba wax and a buffing wheel.

On repairing a bite-through....

Slow and repetitve application of black cyanoacrylate (I use StewMac brand because it is used on instrument bits). And then slowly/patiently bringing back the original shape with high grit sandpaper paper and needle files. This process takes days. Mostly just a lot of wait time for the cyanoacrylate to cure.

Check airway with pass of a cleaner to ensure it's clear. I use a nail file as scaffolding and put a small coat of Vaseline on it, to ensure the cyanoacrylate won't stick. Put on the first layer and let it set for 12hrs before attempting to pull out the file. Flip the pipe on its face so gravity doesn't work against you, and voila. Takes about 5 more applications to get a decent bubble of material to file back down.

Basically you slowly build up the material in layers. You would have to do both sides and rebuild the lip on your worst one with this approach...not easy.

Alright, no offense to the first commenter but we need to clearly define what we are talking about.
There isn't an "impact driver drill" I believe your talking about something like this that is a cordless electric 1/4" impact driver. It accepts 1/4" hex driver bits notice the special cut out at the base of the bit, that's what keeps it from falling out. It functions like a drill/driver until it encounters sufficient resistance then it impacts, giving increased torque(rotational force), it does not produce a hammering force(along the axis of the bit).

Now this is an impact wrench it too functions like a drill/driver until it meets resistance then it impacts adding rotational force but not hammer force. What are the differences between this and the driver we looked at earlier? First is obviously size, the wrench is bigger, and stronger, and heavier. But that's not what makes it a different tool, what makes it different is the tip, it's a square, like for putting sockets on, in this case 1/2" sockets but they make 3/8", 1/4", 3/4" and much larger!

So could you use the first tool in place of the much larger second tool? Yes! Use one of these adapters

Here's the problem tho, the first tool, the driver, makes at most 117 ft-lbs, and I believe that's stretching, the second tool, the wrench, makes 700 ft-lbs. To remove a rusty, crusty, stubborn lugnut you will need the bigger badder tool, sometimes it still won't be enough, and you'll need a breaker bar with a cheater pipe.

Now what the other commenter mentioned, the hammering force, that can be made with a few different tools. Let's start with the handheld impact driver yes it's confusing, two different tools, both called impact drivers, but this one we'll call the handheld, you hold it with one hand, and hammer it with a hammer. It has a cam mechanism that takes some of that axial force and imparts a slight (like 1/16 of a turn) rotation. It's good for stuck screws especially Phillips heads.

Another, more common tool is the hammer drill it is essentially a drill, it grips with three jaws onto the same bits as our first impact driver, or onto completely round bits, like your common drill bits but when you engage the hammer mechanism it will push its chuck forward and back rapidly, and the pressure you apply to the back of the drill hammers the bit into the material your drilling, useful for concrete/masonary work. But for real drilling power into concrete you want an SDS rotary hammer drill this bad boy only accepts SDS bits, provides it's own rotary and axial forces and will drill thru reinforced concrete like non reinforced butter.

Ok I think that about covers it, if anyone would like to add on I'd appreciate it. And remember:

Always use the right tool for the job, a hammer is the right tool for every job, and every tool can be used as a hammer!


Obviously that was sarcasm.

Ok, I'll try my best to explain here. It's a long and labor intensive process, but there's no thought involved, and nothing to screw up like with some methods.

First, you're going to need a few supplies
-----

• Spray adhesive, I used Loctite General Performance Lightweight Bonding adhesive
  
  
• Oil for the sanding, I used 3-IN-ONE oil
  
  
• Sandpaper of several grits, I used a bunch of big packs from Lowes, but a multi-pack like this would be ideal
  
  
• Adhesive remover, I used Goo Gone
  
  
• An X-Acto style knife, I used one I just had laying around so sorry no link
  
  
• Some rags to wipe up the metal filled cutting oil
  
  
• Masking tape
  
  
• The thinnest tape you can possibly find
  
  
• A screwdriver for the burr chamber and another for the burrs themselves. I recommend a torque screwdriver for the burrs, but it's not strictly needed.
  
  Now, for the chamber sanding
  -----
  
  

1. Cut out 6 squares each of the 220 grit, 320 grit, 400 grit, and 800 grit sandpaper that will fit the entire burr on them. If you like shine and don't mind the time it takes, throw some higher grit in there too.
   
   
2. Take the outer burr carrier out of your grinder, remove the spring from it, and set it aside. Then unscrew the inner burr, you'll be attaching the sandpaper to this burr first.
   
   
3. Take one of the squares of your 220 grit and spray the back with spray adhesive then press your inner burr on it. Wait for it to dry. Then cut off the excess sandpaper from the edges and middle leaving only a ring of it.
   
   
4. Tape your inner burr to the outer burr that's still screwed into the burr carrier with masking tape. Work around the standoff post things.
   
   
5. Apply cutting oil to the sandpaper.
   
   
6. Put the assembly of two burrs in the burr chamber (making sure the spring is out of the carrier) and spin it around with gentle pressure. Take it out from time to time to wipe off the oil and metal. Continue until the sandpaper is worn out.
   
   
7. Repeat 3-6 two more times to use 3 discs. You'll need the Goo Gone to clean the burr to attach the next disc.
   
   
8. Repeat steps 3-7 for each size of sandpaper. You should use 3 discs for at least 220 and 320, and can probably go down from there. Those sizes do most of the work and the rest polish.
   
   Now your chamber is sanded to be perpendicular with the driveshaft. But your carrier does not perfectly match, not yet.
   
   Now, for the carrier sanding
   -----
   
   
9. Screw your inner burr back into the grinder. If you have a torque screwdriver that is ideal, but at least try to be even. Unscrew the outer burr from the carrier.
   
   
10. Take one of the squares of your 220 grit and spray the back with spray adhesive then press your outer burr on it. Wait for it to dry. Then cut off the excess sandpaper from the edges and middle leaving only a ring of it.
    
    
11. Tape the outer burr, without carrier, to the inner burr. This will be a massive pain in the ass to pull off and you'll need the thinnest tape you can get. The standoff posts will have to go over the tape this time.
    
    
12. Apply cutting oil to the sandpaper.
    
    
13. Put the carrier over the two burrs that are affixed to the chamber, apply gentle pressure and spin it to sand down the carrier. Same way you did with the chamber sanding.
    
    
14. Repeat with multiple grits and multiple discs of each grit the same way you did with the chamber.
    
    Your carrier now has a parallel surface to your chamber. Which is also perpendicular to the driveshaft! Congratulations, your grinder is aligned the best it can be this side of a machine shop!
    
    Final steps and notes
    -----
    
    

• Make sure to clean your grinder before using it.
  
  
• Make sure to flush your grinder with at least a few doses of coffee before using it.
  
  
• When you're doing spray adhesive, have it in a box or something to not make a mess.
  
  
• Rubbing alcohol, acetone, dish soap, etc all do nothing on the spray adhesive. You do need the Goo Gone and will have to run out to a hardware store and buy it like I did if you don't try to skip it.
  
  
• If you opt to use any water on your burrs for cleaning, dry it off right away. The SSP burrs are coated, so it's not as bad as if you did it to Ditting burrs, but still dry em.
  
  
• You can repeat the chamber sanding once the carrier is done for a theoretically slightly more perfect surface, but it's not really necessary.
  

Wood is always the best material! Here's what I've learned so far on how to make non-ugly wood-based things:

-1) Plan, plan plan plan plan plan plan. Take measurements. Draw. Scratch your head. Go to the store and measure the wood you'll be using. Draw some more. Swear a bit. Nothing will save you if you don't plan out your design well.

0) Measure thrice cut once - Don't get antsy with your cuts. Make sure you have the right measurement, then make sure again. Mark your cut with a pencil and mark the WHOLE length of the cut, not just the beginning. Use a triangle and a clamp as a saw guide. Cut a SMALL notch in the wood and ensure you're on your mark. Make sure before your cut you know which side of the cut your saw blade is supposed to be on or your length will be off by the width of the saw blade.

1. [Kreg pocket hole jig] (http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-K4-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B001DYFISG/ref=pd_cp_hi_3) - this thing is amazing. It creates screw holes that are unobtrusive and easy to hide. You can go in at an angle instead of straight-on. Get the screws too.
   
   
2. Random orbit sander - people like smooth things and nicely sanded wood takes a finish much better. Sand every surface you intend on finishing and keep sanding it until it's as smooth as a baby's bottom. EDIT: Use breathing protection such as a dust mask.
   
   
3. Prestain - This is needed for some porous woods like pine.
   
   
4. Wood stain + polyeurethane - I use the kind that is combined. I don't know if others will think I'm a heathen because of that but I do. I don't use the brushes but instead use the white sponges. I can't find them though. Use at least two coats and LET IT DRY inbetween. Don't get anxious. Also, if you live with a woman don't forget to ask her what colors work best with the room. Take her with you to get the stain if necessary.
   
   
5. Steel wool between coats - This removes minor imperfections like bubbles and small hairs that get stuck in the coat of stain.
   
   That's all the suggestions I can come up with for now. It shouldn't be difficult. Scout out your wood supplier beforehand so you can see what you have to work with. You can probably find legs like those on the table in the picture at Lowes pretty easily. A nice top shouldn't be hard to find there either. You can either screw the legs directly into the top if you find a thick enough one or get some thinner boards for side pieces and form a frame to put the top on.

Ok, plenty of tips. Some are because I'm stupid and learned the hard way and others are specific to this project.

1. Get a Kreg Jig. Dont cheap out and get the $30 one. I started with that one and although it works just fine, when your doing a bunch of them, the master kit is soooooooo much easier and faster. Halfway through the project I got the Master Kit for about $90 and its well worth the money.
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-K4-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B001DYFISG/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1418682780&sr=1-4&keywords=Kreg+Jig&pebp=1418682786524
   
   
2. This is probably common knowledge for wood workers / construction guys but apparently when you buy wood, its not the measurements you buy. A 2x4 is not actually 2" x 4" turns out its 1-1/2" x 3-1/2. When I went to H-Depot to find 1x10 board, I was miffed why it was in fact 1x9-1/4. I had to re-cut half my wood to fit.
   
   
3. Although I am glad I used the cheapest stuff I could find, I would probably go to a lumber yard to get better quality wood next time. Its kinda warped on the drawer face.
   
   
4. These plans don't really have any kind of drawer mechanism. The drawer just sits on wood. Next time I make something with a drawer, I will include a drawer slide. This also may be just because Im not good at it, but it doesn't slide easily or cleanly.
   
   
5. Clamps. Make sure you've got plenty. When I started the project I had 2- 12" clamps and ended up ordering 3 more 36" clamps. Pipe Clamps are better, but I ordered some cheap ones (link below) When I ordered them they were $9 each with free prime shipping. Wait till they go back on sale.
   
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NQ17PI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
6. Back to the Drawer. I just remembered. I believe the plans called for a piece of plywood as the bottom of the drawer. When I cut it down and tested the fit, it was too tight to actually go in the drawer hole. I ended up cutting it down to fit the inside of the drawer and gluing it in place. It ended up "ok" but I wish I had done a better job on this.
   

I am nit sure if this charger does Aa and aaa, but bunch of eneloop batteries (best batteries you can get) and a charger is one of best investments I made, and I got it as my first purchase trough prime now app same day delivery to get $20 off first purchase of $50 bucks, so I got 16 Aa 14 aaa couple of converters and a smart charger for like 30 bucks.these and couple extra packs of batteries

Edit it does charge both aaa and aa and it's 2 individual chanels which is great for this price, as far as getting more batteries eneloop are best and Amazon branded ones are basically eneloop last gen rebranded which you can find on sale.

1. It's rare that you will need to replace them ( many go hundreds of miles with no issues ), but a random stray rock or something can tear them sooner. You can pick extra sets up from here: https://www.royalsupply.com/store/pc/Gates-225-3MGT-15-PowerGrip-GT3-Synchronous-Belt-9400-5075-p17363.htm
   
2. The wheels handle pretty much everything you throw at them.
   
3. The grip tape will last years as long as you take care of it. Pick up some abrasive cleaner and clean it on occasion. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AJW0CY8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   As far as remote disconnections with the V2, I've never had it lose connection once.
   The only other suggestions I would have are to pick up some bash guards from flatland-3D to preserve the ends of your board, and compressed air to clean hard to reach areas on the board.
   Hope that helped! Have fun!

Found an old Ping Anser 3 at a thrift shop for $2.49. So why not!

Materials used:

20 oz Coke $1.75

Pack of assorted wet/dry sandpaper $8 All the grits are packed together, so the sheets all need rinsing before use.

3M scrubby dremel tips. Used a couple of these for hard-to-get areas, but the sandpaper worked much better for the large surfaces.

Brass Black $8


First step was to see how it was under 30+ years of oxidation. 24 hour soak in coke, then hit with a scrubby.

Next came the sanding. LOTS of sanding.

Started with 220, so I didn't take off too much material, and moved up from there - 400/800/1000/1500/2000. A good rinse and dry with an old t-shirt between each grit keeps from scratching up all the hard work.

I was going to go up to 3000 grit, but couldn't keep from scratching it up after 2000. Yeah, I could have buffed it to a mirror shine, but that had a good chance of softening all the edges. I didn't want a 'blobby' putter.

A bit of acetone on a q-tip removed the old sight line.

Next step was an alcohol bath. 99% isopropyl because that's what I had lying around. A hot water rinse and a good shake dry followed.

Into a ziplock bag it went with some of the Brass Black. Squished it around to get even coverage. Rinsed, dried, and left for 24 hours. Then repeat.

In reality, the next step was to sit the putter on my desk and forget to send it back to Ping. But we're gonna skip that step here.

The putter was shipped back to Ping on a Friday. The rep who called was super cool, and said it wouldn't take to long to put a new shaft and grip on and ship it back. Total cost about $61.

This putter is awesome. First round with it and I scored my lowest ever with an 82* (Par 64 course, so it's only bogey golf. But still lowest score for 18!)

Cheers

Use a hole saw for terminal cups. It's really difficult to cut a hole that small with a jigsaw and have it precise enough for a terminal cup.

TBH, most of us don't use terminal cups. Drill a hole, push the wire through, put a dab of caulk/silicone on the inside. Straight connection=lower resistance=more power. Plus, easier and cheaper.

As for cutting the subwoofer holes, using a jigsaw is certainly a skill you have to develop. It can be done, but honestly, it requires a lot of practice. Once you develop the skill, you can do some pretty cool stuff.

For instance, except for the straight side cuts, I made this with a jigsaw, including cutting out the logo. Triple layer baffle, you can see how close each hole is (sorry for the bad picture, this was from years ago). They were all cut separately, freehand, from precisely measured and drawn lines.

Unless you want to put the time in practicing, best bet is a router with a circle jig. Find perfect center, drive in a nail, pop on the jig, plunge and spin, perfect hole.

Assuming you are starting from the ground up and need everything, it's going to be tight and you'll have to skimp in some places, but this is exactly what I would do. The grand total here is $5005.00 and that includes shipping on the big ticket items which is a few hundred dollars.

Table saw and related stuff:

[Grizzly G0715xp] (http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series-/G0715P)

Freud Premier Fusion

[Freud SD208] (http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SD208-8-Inch-Professional-Dado/dp/B0000223O9/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395407011&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+sd208)

Gr Ripper 3d advanced (awesome on the router table too

Make your own ZCI's

Table Saw Total - $1,142

Jointer

Grizzly G0654 6" jointer (sell this on craigslist when you can upgrade to the 8". They hold their value really well and sell fast)

Jointer total $534.00

Planer

Dewalt DW734 - $399.99 most places. The 735 is nice, but not that much nicer. If I were to upgrade beyond the 734, I'd go for a 15" stationary unit.

Miter saw

Definitely go craigslist on this one. These things are a dime a dozen there. You can get a sliding 12" Dewalt/Makita/Ridgid, etc for around 250.00 to 300.00 Also pick up a decent Irwin Marples or Diablo blade

SCMS total - ~320.00

Bandsaw:

Craftsman BAS350. I own this. It's the SAME EXACT saw as the Rikon 10-321, just 200.00 cheaper. 8" resaw capacity and no stupid riser blocks to fuck up the geometry of your saw and make tensioning a nightmare.

Bandsaw Total - 620.00 with the Rikon resaw fence (bolt on) and a few timberwolf blades

Harbor Freight 2hp Dust collector, a lot of hoses, blast gates, and material to mod it to a 2 stage cyclone - 400.00

Router(s)

Bosch 1617 with both plunge and fixed bases

MLCS 15 bit set. Not the best, but better than absolutely anything else in this price range. Replace bits with Whiteside or Amanna when you have the cash.

Router and bits total 200.00

Also make your own table and fence to fill the empty space in your table saw.

Sanding

{Milwaukee 6021-21 Random Orbit Sander. Best ROS on the market until you go Festool/Ceros

Some klingspor abrasives in different grits

Shop vac bucket max and a 5gal bucket - perfect for sanders

Ridgid oscilating spindle sander. This is a tool I could definitely not live without after owning.

Sanding total - $320.00

Drill Press

Porter cable floor press

Also get the Porter Cable Forstner bit set and some decent brad points/twists)

Drill Press/bits total - ~$420.00

Clamps

Jorgensen Cabinet Master 4pc Set and various other bar clamps. The Pittsburgh ones from HF are pretty good

Clamps total ~ $250.00

Misc stuff

Woodriver bench chisels.

A vintage stanley block plane, and a jack plane

some plywood/melamine, and cheap hardwood and hardware to make a cross cut sled, router table/fence. drill press table, a workable bench/outfeed table and a grizzly woodworking end vise

Misc total - ~400.00

The PD35 is about this big. It's definitely EDC-able, but I don't know if it fits your size requirements.

Light 1

>I think for this one I don't really need a flood application and more of a beam?

The trouble with that is that small lights have wide beams. That's just physics. If you want throw, you need a larger head. How far do you need this light to shine?

If you want an AA sized USB rechargeable light, the Jetbeam E10R is probably your best bet. For max output, use one of these 14500 cells. You can also use rechargeable AAs. The light has all of the stuff you want: micro USB charging, a pocket clip, and the capability of putting out a lot of light. It doesn't throw super far, but it should be plenty for what you need.

Light 2

This one is easier. A Wowtac A1S is a low cost, high quality light that comes with a micro USB rechargeable battery (the port is on the battery itself). It has a pretty standard beam pattern. Good for general use.

It really depends on what you planning on sharpening. The stone you listed is a 5 in. medium and a 4 in. fine which you will come to find out if you buy it just isn't big enough. Also it really depends on how sharp you want your knives to be. The system you listed has a 400 grit medium and a approximately 1,000 - 1,200 grit fine. However if you don't mind not using a stone you could also use higher grit sandpaper or Polishing Paper but don't just cut into it like the guy did in the video. I like you experiment with different ways of sharpening my knives, my system is as follows; 800 sandpaper, 1,200 stone, 4,000 polishing paper, 6,000 stone, and finish with 2 different leather strop with compound approx. 8,000 - 12,000 grit. Find out what works best for you, Hoped this helped!

You might also consider steel wool, if the above doesn't work, but be gentle. It's possible that you might mar what looks like an otherwise nice finish, and it would be a shame to have to re-polish the area.

Keep a really close eye on those sections in the near future, too, once the rust has been removed: it's possible that the rust may come back quickly in those spots now, since there's probably more surface area (and thus more chances for oxidation) under the rust spots now.

If that happens, it may be in your best interest to pick up some polishing paper and run the finer grades (I find the 30 micron paper leaves small scratches that I can see - start with the 15) over the area to help even things out.

I purchased the Makita 18V Lithium Ion set linked earlier (http://amzn.com/B000V2DSE2). I love them, they work great and the batteries charge fast. One thing I wish I did was get the LXT version, which has a larger battery. I don't want this for longer run time, although that would also be nice, but it would run the rest of the cordless tools that Makita sells. Things like a circular saw, sawzall, shoot even a friggin leaf blower can all run on the same batteries. So I find my self now wishing I had originally bought the bigger battery set.

This one specifically: Makita LXT 18V

Reason being, it has the compact impact driver that everyone loves, and the hammer drill (which can switch between hammer function or normal drill function).

TL;DR: I wish I bought Makita LXT 18V over the Maktita 18V

Let me start by saying that this would be the bare minimum. This is assuming that you have all the experience to use these tools effectively as someone who has the appropriate skill and knows to do things like not bear down on a saw when cutting, keeping everything square, how to mill boards by hand, how to not kill sandpaper in a few strokes, how to tune and sharpen a hand plane, ETC.


2x$8.69Vise grips Two vise grip clamps. Clamps can be universally adjusted and clamped in almost any direction with some quick thinking. One is never enough.


$9.99Cheap set of chisels Everyone needs a chisel. These will be made from a milder steel, but it's better than nothing.


$22.00Generic ryoba saw A ryoba saw will double for crosscuts and ripcuts. They go as far as you can take them provided you treat them right.


$18.62Bench Plane You need to be able to take down material in terms of thickness. A simple bench plane will due for now.


$20.61Block Plane A block plane will help slightly with end grain smoothing where the bench plane cannot.


$3.47Bundled Sandpaper You need to finish your products somehow. I would get a generic bundle of sandpaper and use it sparingly and tenderly.


$12.85Square Keeping things square is vital.


$6.79Mallet Hammering your chisels is going to be very important since you cannot use a 2x4 reliably.


$3.47Wood Glue Need to be able to glue things together.


$11.80A set of card scrapers Remove material smoother and faster. You don't want to waste sandpaper if you don't have to, and these are quite versatile.


$8.06A bastard file A bastard file will do for now when it comes to heavier shaping and sharpening your card scrapers.


$15.92A small drill viseKeeping something secure in place is very important. A small vise will accommodate small and narrow pieces of lumber and can be bolted to a bench.


$3.97Assorted finer sandpapers You need something to keep your chisels constantly sharp, especially when it is such a mild steel as a set of 9.99 chisels.


$15.59Wipe on polyurethane You need to be able to finish your products somehow.


Comes to $170.52 I would use the rest to make a bench and two sawhorses out of some 2x4's.

I had a tiny spot on my hood that I left about 5 years ago thats slowly progressed from a dot to circle about an inch wide. I kept saying I was going to find a new hood from the junk yard, but I have yet to find one in good condition & the right color. I should've taken care of it before it grew.

Touch up paint is what you want, I've used that in other areas in the past. Focus your sanding right where its rusted only, try not to sand past it thinking you can blend the paint in. That's only possible if you use a full spray setup and respray the entire area over.

The trouble with touch up is it will never match or look original. So do it while its small to minimize the impact. Check with your dealer to see if they sell a small jar or pen of original factory paint in your color -- if not many places sell it online (color matched / mixed). They should give you a jar of color plus a jar of clear, and you may need to buy your own sandpaper and polish. 3M sells a small sandpaper kit like this: link. Heres the polish I have: link. That will take out any sanding marks after.

I don't think so, but only because of the high CRI request. The Jetbeam E10R, Fenix RC05, and Skilhunt M150 all meet most of your other criteria (the Jetbeam is pretty focused, though it's actually got the nicest LED). You could look into swapping LEDs on any of those, or you could just get the Jetbeam and slap on some DC Fix to flood out the beam. It won't be high-CRI, but it'll have nice tint.

In all the speakers I've built, I didn't just cut a circle but actually cut a rabbeted circle around the edge for the lip of the driver to sit in. I think it looks much nicer but you could certainly do without it if you don't mind the look.

I cut mine circles with a router and one of these though you could pretty easily build your own jig if you didn't want to buy one. Cut the rabbet first and then cut the through hole after that. With this setup, it'll take you 2 minutes to cut a perfect speaker hole of exact dimensions at exactly the spot on the board you want it. I can't imagine trying to do that without a router - it'd be a freaking nightmare.

As for making your cuts, a jigsaw isn't going to produce very pretty cuts. A circular saw with a straight edge will do the job far better. That setup would effectively give you a tablesaw except upside down.

If you're strapped for cash, doing this one time only, or just trying to figure out if you're into the whole building thing, maybe get one of these. It's not a high quality tool, but it'll cut. I'm sure HF has some routers that would work with the jib above, but make sure the bolt hole patterns are supported. Oh, and never go into HF without a 20% off coupon - they're in every newspaper and magazine all the time.

Edit: Also use the router + a round over bit to round over the sharp corners on the box!

Man there is a lot to cover.

But to start, get a compressor with a reservoir so you can have extended paint sessions without overheating the pump. Something like this, Also some Dentist supply depot have oilless compressors with reservior ( the oiless part is very important for painting) that are really quiet but can get a bit expensive.

Get a good airbrush, you can find good quality airbrush in amazon but skip ANY of this type you won't get much out of those. This is a very good gravity fed airbrush.

Not really sure what your budget or needs are, but a palm sander (also called corner or detail sander) might work for you. They are relatively inexpensive and the sanding pads are too. I've used a Harbor Freight one almost daily for many years for many different types of projects.

Here's a decent one from Amazon

Whatever sander you decide on, an essential add-on is a gum rubber sandpaper cleaner. I went for years always replacing the sandpaper when it got clogged until I discovered that I could clean them over and over, and save a lot of money.

Hope that helps!

note, they are right about the mandrel, but if you want to drill the blank on the lathe, you'll need a jacobs chuck and a regular one. I got a cheap Grizzly and it works great on my harbor freight lathe(18x10)

http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H8049-6-Inch-4-Jaw-1-Inch/dp/B000M63176/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1451192165&sr=8-6&keywords=lathe+chuck

http://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-Products-TM32-Diameter/dp/B004CVJC20/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451192244&sr=8-1&keywords=jacobs+chuck



Side note, some pen kits are fine to turn between centers but a mandrel is certainly the safest.

it really depends on your budget. One of my favorite brushes is a badger 105 patriot found here

This brush will last you a long time with proper care. It's also reasonably priced and has a great spray pattern (pencil line to almost three inches). As for a compressor I personally use a California air tool - quite air model found here

I use this guy because of the large tank and because it has a rust free tank. Most model or little compressors have tanks that are made out of iron which will rust after some time. But depending on how much you wanna spend here are ones I would recommend because they come with a tank and an adjustable regulator/water trap (but as you can see they are not to far off from the California one)

Paache
PointZero

I have the second one in that list, however after a year the tank rusted even with proper care :(

I just picked up a generic set of Drill bits(these ones actually) and have been happy with them, they're also great for working with styrene rods and the like as they match up perfectly.

I love my makitas. The LCT set is good for most people. The LXT 211 or 218 are slightly more powerful for people who use their tools every day. I own the 211 set and love it.

I've had good luck with Porter Cable and Bosch routers. For speaker building I recommend getting some type of plunge router with a jasper circle jig.
http://www.amazon.com/Jasper-200J-Circle-Cutting-Plunge/dp/B00009K77A

I do a lot of car and home audio, and that jig is one of my favorite tools. Perfect circles everytime.

The paint is not adhering to the bumper. Please keep in mind that I'm not an expert, but I've got some experience with putting paint on plastic surfaces (aka scale model nerd, lol).

Here's what I would do: lightly rough up the bumper's surface with a spot sanding pen (LINK) and clean the surface with some isopropyl alcohol. Usually there's specialized prep involved with painting plastic on cars, but those two steps should help your touch up paint "grab on" to the bumper.

As with all painting, most of the work is in the prep. Good luck!

I use sandpaper on a granite stone and am usually sharpening chisels and plane irons. Once you invest the time in getting them scary sharp the first time, maintenance isn't so bad.

My advice on the sandpaper method is:

• Buy sandpaper strips in a variety pack. I usually get this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZ6TG05/
  
• Spend enough time at the lowest grit to achieve the flat back and proper angle quickly.
  
• Don't skip grits. Work your way through the progression. It takes a lot longer to go from 120 to directly 400 than it does to go 120/220/320/400.
  
• Personally, I invest the time to get only a portion of the back up to a mirror shine. Some people aim for getting the entire chisel/plane back to a mirror. I find this unnecessary. If you focus your efforts on the last inch or so, you'll achieve the desired result more quickly. Don't skip the step of polishing the back. You can only do as good as the highest grit on the back. If you sand the back to 400 and sand the bevel to 1200, you only have a 400-grit level sharpness.
  
• Use a good honing guide to easily get the desired angle.
  
  Here is an article by Rollie Johnson on the subject: https://www.finewoodworking.com/2017/02/27/simple-sharpening-cart. You don't need four stones, and you don't need a cart. I do find the camellia oil helpful, but I have also had good success with water and with Windex.

I agree with most of what has been suggested here. A microjig Gripper, a better saw blade, the one that comes with the saw is crap. A dado set. He can make push sticks, I like the ones I made better than the store bought. You could also get him a gift card to a hardwood store or HD/Lowes so he can buy lumber or anything else he needs.

• Micro Jig Gripper
  
• Dado Stack
  
• incra v27
  
• Digital level/Angle finder for making sure your blade is at 90 or 45 degrees
  
  

Get a screw extractor set from Amazon. Just make sure to get one that comes with left hand drill bits. You can often get the screw out just with the left hand bits before even needing to use the extractor.

This is a good kit if you want a variety of sizes for anything like this in the future:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBH8/

Amazed people still use non recharable batteries. My suggestion would be to invest in 8 good quality recharable batteries like Eneloops and just swap them from the charger to controller when required.

I personally bought this package maybe 5 years ago and the batteries are still going strong in my xbox controllers and other devices.

https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-KJ17MCC82A-Eneloop-Advanced-Individual/dp/B00JHKSLSW/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1510351864&sr=8-14&keywords=eneloop+aa

Make sure you get similar batteries if you choose another brand that hold a charge for a long time. The cheaper rechargables go flat very quickly even without use. I think eneloops and similar ones can hold charge for 10 years even if just sitting there.

If you don't go too far and cut into the actual part with the file, then not really. It will leave some small scratches, because that's basically how the file removes the nubs, but you can clear those up with a few passes of some really fine grit sandpaper. Something in the 1000+ grit range should do, because it's fine enough that it's basically polishing the piece. Automotive sandpaper usually ranges from 1000-3000 grit, and you can find it at any auto parts store in small multi-grit packages that sell for like $5. Something like this.

Something like this might help. I know how small that roll pin must be, but I am not certain one of these tools will be small enough for the job. Might be worth it, though. Otherwise, a trip to a professional gunsmith might be in order. Good luck!

I LOVE the Bosch 1617 kit. Lowes occassionally has it on sale for $189. There are a few others in that price range that are also worth it I believe.

Some Router tips:
1- NEVER buy a cheap one. An underpowered router, or one that isn't made true will ruin your project. As tempting as a $30 HF router is, all it will do is trash your work.
2- Get one where the fixed base has an adjustment from below the router. This will more easily allow you to make it into a router table down the line.
3- Get something that does a 1/2" shank. 1/4" shank bits ARE available for a lot of things, but you'll break them (and thus whatever they shoot off into, such as projects, tools, body parts) way more often.
4- Get A LOT of clamps. Don't rout anything where you're taking off a lot of material (such as a dado/rabbet) without it being VERY well clamped down. Err on the side of caution, routers can kick back light things really easily
5- This set of bits here: https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S is a good starting place. When you find yourself using one of those bits A LOT, invest in a Freud/Rockler/etc bit.

Boxer - Boxer 30 Pcs 4mm Precision Screwdriver Set - PK30 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FGQ1G6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_O..YzbM6B48CZ

I've had this kit for years since my day job was repairing computers. It hasn't failed me yet.

If you want a much nicer set wiha is one of the best brands when it comes to precision screwdrivers

Wiha 75992 System 4 Precision Interchangeable Bit Set, Torx, Slotted, Phillips, Hex Inch, ESD Safe Precision Handle, 27 Piece In Compact Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000WTBO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qbaZzbCKNSP8S

I have the 5100 and bought the dado insert off amazon. It looks like yours uses a different model, but this looks right for yours.
I use the Freud 8 in stack and your saw looks like it also takes 8 in diameter. That set is great.

Same here. My best gift so far has been this:

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LCT200W-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B000V2DSE2

Awesome. Just awesome.

Highly recommend you get a stick to clean ur tape. You'll be happy you did 😁 I use that stick to get the gunk off and add a little water if it's really in there.


POWERTEC 71002 Abrasive Cleaning Stick, 8-1/2" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AJW0CY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NQ68AbRJG701J

Came out very well. I am a little picky about it all but considering I spent about an hour doing it (one headlight). I could have easily done another round though and it would have been slightly better but it was getting dark. I would highly recommend sticking with wet sanding all around because dry sanding it will clog up the sandpaper.

I 3d print so I had a bunch of sandpaper, unfortunately not enough of certain grits, but here is a link to the sandpaper I used. One sheet was good for one head light. Cheap and reasonable.

Pen turning is an excellent hobby! For making pens, some things you'll need might include:

• pen blanks, a pen kit, and bushings for that specific kit
  
  
• a way to drill the blank to glue in the inserts. If you don't have a drill press, then you can drill on your lathe with a chuck, a face plate, and a way to hold the blanks like some pen jaws. If you do have a drill press, then to ensure that you're drilling vertically, some people use a pen vice
  
  
• Once the blank is drilled and the insert is glued in, you need to to trim it with a barrel trimmer
  
  
• then you put it on your lathe by putting the bushings on either side of the blanks, and sliding the whole thing on a mandrel
  
  
• Then you turn it, finish it, and assemble it. Some people use a pen press
  
  Note: Of course there are a million ways to do everything. I don't promote any of the links, they're just examples to show what the tools look like.

Exactly right but I think it’s too late for this screw. The left-handed drill bit idea is the best choice IMO.

Neiko 01925A Screw Extractor and Left Hand Drill Bit Set, 10 Piece | Alloy Extractors | Cobalt HSS Drill Bits | https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F9ANQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_48c-BbVJE5B8K

Hozan JIS-4 JIS Screwdriver Set (NEW 3rd. Gen) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_09c-BbD50WFW8

3M Micron Papers are my personal preference - they are much more consistent than regular sandpapers and achieve much finer finishes - best used with some patience, going stepwise from the larger micron sizes and working through the finer papers (in one direction, of course with the grain of the finish) until you've reached what you're happy with (a set of 6, each color is a finer and finer abrasive down to 1 micron) -

With one big caveat:

Practice first, understand that literally nothing you can do at home will ever exactly match the factory finish without knowing which wheels/abrasives/techniques they use, and if you're too aggressive you'll turn one scratch in an otherwise nice finish into a complete mess.

Or just live with it... or take it to a good jeweler/watchmaker. Even they may not be able to exactly match a given watch' factory finish since there are so many different variables for brushed finishes...

You'll probably get a better response over at /r/modelmakers or /r/modelcars.

A 30+ year-old airbrush probably isn't too good for a beginner to start with. Depending on your budget, you can get airbrush kits from Amazon for under $100, or go all out for a Paasche, Badger, or Iwata setup for $200 and up.

This is the kit I started with. The brushes are surprisngly well-made, and I haven't had any problems with them, except the big one's plastic handle broke. The compressor isn't that good, but it's good enough to get some experience. Mine won't hold pressure after 2 years, and the regulator sucks, but I've painted some pretty cool models with it.


Again, it all depends on your budget. If you're under $100, check out the Master Airbrush stuff on Amazon - if you have more to spend, look for a compressor with a storage tank like this.

Hi all,

So I have a few small paint chips on the roof of my truck that have rusted over time. I bought a kit from Dr. ColorChip after hearing such good things about them and thought I would give it a shot.

I purchased this sanding pen from Amazon, because from my understanding you need to sand off the rust first before applying the paint. The rust was much harder to get off than I thought, and since the sanding pen was a little wider than the chip I think I took off too much paint.

I cleaned everything up and continued on with the Dr. ColorChip kit. After following the instructions and applying two coats this is what I ended up with.

Where did I go wrong here? Did I wipe on the blending solution too early? I waited at least five minutes after I applied the paint before using it. Also, it looks like the rust is still there underneath even though I sanded a majority it off before painting?

Pretty disappointed with how it came out, looks worse than before I started. Any help here is appreciated.

Thanks.

I don't have a drill press. I have had great success with the Barracuda Wood Lathe Chuck and Drill Chuck. This works very well. Still need to tap it out slowly to prevent build up inside the tube.

I bought this MLCS set off Amazon as my starter set:

https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S/

It's been fine - I'm now buying better quality bits when I know I need something and I've replaced a couple of these with nicer versions, but for a basic set this has been a good value for me.

If that is all the actual rust, I dealt with rust spots about that size on my NB. I first used a sanding pen to sand the rust down. Then I applied some OEM Touchup paint. Last thing, I used Langka blob eliminator to form it to the rest of the paint. You can't tell its been touched up from about 10 feet away, any closer than that and you can tell. Better than leaving rust to sit. Here are links for all of those things.

Sanding Pen
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FN8H52/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Blob Eliminator
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0074BMB0U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Micro Brush (Helps with touchup, sometimes)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6D0207/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The best part about the blob eliminator, if you mess it up you can use it to completely remove any touchup paint, and not damage the OEM Paint. The stuff is magical for small touchup spots, work on it until you are happy with the results. Will be much cheaper than 450$

Contact the technical department (or customer service) of the manufacturer of the specific paint you used and ask them for the best method. They test paints for these things and they will offer you their 'best' method, the best solvent to use.

With that said, if it is a matte finish and you can find a non-visible area to test it on (underneath maybe), you might be able to repair it with very fine wet/dry sandpaper (1500 grit) or even finer [wet/dry polishing papers] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BHGC7G/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1), which are graduated up to 8000 grit (one micron). Use both very wet.

Edit: if possible, test every repair method on a non-visible area first.

I generally use 4 wheels (Cotton Flannel Unstitched - The softest you can find, I ordered my current set from Foredom). One is brown tripoli, one is white tripoli, the next is wax, and the last is a dry buff.

For sanding, I like the micromesh pad set that reborn pipes uses: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJC156U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Always wet sand. I also use a few high grit papers from home depot.

Also, I've found that if you just want to hit the rim real quick to take down a little lava build up, a mr clean magic eraser works really well.. but be very careful, you can go too far very easily.

I've found that pipe restoring is a hobby in itself, and you will learn to develop your own tools and methods. There are a few basic principles, but beyond that, it is a learning experience in itself, and you don't really have to rush out and buy everything all at once.

wow thanks! and uh would this drill set work ? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000302Z3/ref=gno_cart_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER and are there anything different with magnets found on amazon? i would prefer to order everything from amazon since i have a prime membership, if not no biggie just wondering.

Thank you for the giveaway and your searching tool, it really is handy for a newcomer like me that is having a hard time really getting into flashlights . I'd love to join for this: https://www.amazon.com/Jetbeam-E10R/dp/B06WWG5ZCT/?tag=parametrek-20

personally i think the best course of actions is to just buy new keycaps, unless you really want to keep them. light sanding should work best, sanding stick

It's called a pocket hole jig, pretty awesome for putting together sheet goods like plywood and MDF. Here's a link to the exact one I use: https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-K4-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B001DYFISG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1479227901&sr=1-4&keywords=kreg+jig&linkCode=sl1&tag=beerrevidude-20&linkId=72358611c9542c75cabc9db98d64e696

Panasonic KJ17MCC82A eneloop Power Pack, 8AA, 2AAA, 2 C Adapters, 2 D Adapters, Advanced Individual Battery Charger and Plastic Storage Case (case color may vary) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JHKSLSW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qTdEDbHAKNZ3H


One of the best purchases I've ever made for around the house and for years now I've just kept recharging the supplied AAs

https://www.amazon.com/Zona-37-948-Polishing-11-Inch-Assortment/dp/B001BHGC7G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1546215593&sr=8-4&keywords=flexible+polishing+papers

$13 for an assortment of all the grits. I've done everything on this entire guitar and have used less than a quarter of any given single sheet. The coarser grits tend to gunk up a bit with the finish I'm using (which is just some consumer-grade water based poly, not catalyzed).

I haven't used any rubbing or polishing compound at all and it still reflects wonderfully. If you need something cheap and easy, it's the way to go. Definitely cheaper than buying all the grits of sandpaper that you'd need to achieve the same result. Works both dry and wet.

Also, they are incredible for polishing frets.

For future builds: http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-K4-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B001DYFISG

Pocket holes are a great way of fastening boards together like this. This guy does some nice pieces using a pocket hole jig:

http://www.diypete.com/how-to-build-a-farmhouse-style-coffee-table/

never heard of point zero, looks like they are rebranded masters stuff. The paasche is known brand, quieter, but less powerful. If you plan on using the compressor for airbrushing you won't need it more powerful though.

I've got a Wiha 75992 which is awesome. Looks like it might fit OPs needs

What kind of router did you get? And what is the collett size?

I bought this set from amazon and love it. It's got the basics you will need for starting out. And, as /u/snuffvieh said, get specialty bits as you need them. But get the quality ones, then.

As for a router table, I had a cabinet I made and put a router table top, Number 6 plan on this list on top of it. I took the drawer out of the top of the cabinet and put in a tip out. Not the best of plans, because shavings get caught in there really fast.

I've looked an an Ifixit bit set that someone I know bought and it's not very high quality, not terrible but, not great.

I personally have this set: http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-75992-Precision-Interchangeable-Phillips/dp/B0000WTBO4/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1427321240&sr=8-13&keywords=wiha+bit+set and it is very very good. ESD safe handle for electronics.

Thank you for the response. How much time do you usually airbrush for? Do you do a lot of detail work with it? I was thinking I would just be doing base coats and the initial highlights, then finishing with a brush.

These Master or Paasche tanks seem good. I am concerned about the 1 star reviews though, seems like they can break.

For now I think I am going to try my Hitachi and see how it goes. I can always get an airbrush compressor later.

Thanks! Best tips I have are let your wood strips dry completely and don't let the CA glue get wet (it will turn ugly white), use at least 10 thin coats of CA sanding with 400 grit between coats, and buy some micromesh polishing pads. You can get them on Amazon for like 20 bucks. A buffing wheel or buffing dremel bit helps get it glossy at the end.

This is a decent tutorial if you don't have a lathe. I usually just use painters tape wrapped tight around a dremel bit until it fits snug to the inside of the ring and carve with a diamond tipped grinding bit of the proper size for the inlay. Poor man's lathe! You can also carve it with a sharp knife and a bit of patience.

You should be able to fix it with some wet sanding (go 400-600-800-1000-2000-3000-polishing compound). You should be able to buy an assortment pack that'll get you the above or similar combination. For example: https://www.amazon.com/Sandpaper-Furniture-Finishing-Automotive-Polishing/dp/B01LZ6TG05/ This is a random one, read reviews and pick a good kit.

Make sure to buy sandpaper designed for wet sanding. Let the sand paper do the work, don't push too hard on to the surface. Keep the surface wet with water. The water acts as a lubricant to keep the sandpaper from clogging up as well as controlling the dust.

edit:

Use tape to mask off the edges of the body work so you don't scratch it. I've found electrical tape to work extremely well for this. Once it's sanded and polished, apply a UV sealant or else your lights will start to yellow/haze after a while.

Get rechargeable batteries instead. This is a great brand that a lot of gamers use and recommend and that I own as well. They will last longer than the battery packs and it's cheaper and you can use them in other things other than your controller.

http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-K-KJ17MCC82A-eneloop-Advanced-Individual/dp/B00JHKSLSW/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1421184411&sr=1-2&keywords=eneloop+power+pack

https://www.reddit.com/r/lifehacks/comments/6dj2bk/comment/di391qx?st=J7OPYW4W&sh=7f63b3f6

This response is pretty great although not exactly addressing the penny hack.

Edit: apparently you can get spacers to utilize smaller batteries in larger configurations. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JHKSLSW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pldnSite=1

I have a makita drill and impact set and it's been flawless for 5 years. http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LCT200W-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B000V2DSE2/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_1
Two years ago I built a privacy fence and wanted another impact driver with out the expense. I purchased the Ryobi bundle for $99.
I have had no issues with either, but as a home owner, Ryobi has so many other great affordable tools that the batteries work with.
https://www.ryobitools.com/power-tools/products/details/540

Awesome sauce! Thanks man!

Jetbeam E10R CREE XP-L HI LED AA Rechargeable Flashlight -650 Lumens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WWG5ZCT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z3W8BbYRM9F60

Got a picture? Maybe a left hand drill bit along with a screw extractor bit, if you have room?

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-11119-Extractors-10-Piece/dp/B0002NYBH8 (but they do make better ones out there too)

Hand saw . $31.66

Dovetail saw / fine saw $26.97

Japanese hand plane $55.35

Chisels $39.99


Combo Square $9.98

stropping compound $12.95

Sharpening Sandpaper $8.99

$185.89 total (excluding taxes). And you still have some left over for some coffee -- you're going to need some b/c learning to sharpen blades/chisels and turning/using a japanese plane is fairly uphill battle for a beginner. But this list is unquestionably your best bang for your buck.

Depending on how poor you are and how perfect of a job you want done, you might want to consider some DIY body work. Depending on the depth of the scratch, you might be able to fix it with just some automotive sandpaper (NOT hardware store sandpaper), some polishing compound, and a microfiber cloth.

If the scratches are deep enough that they've gouged out the paint, you'd need to sand, prime, and paint. I'd suggest talking to the good folks over at Bloomington Autocolor - they can fill a spray can with a custom matched color for your car. They can tell you what you need to do, and there are plenty of good Youtube videos as well.

For the dents, sometimes you can pop them out if they're rounded, otherwise you might have to replace the part. You can try a junkyard, or just order online. Depending on how the mirror broke you might be able to do a temp fix with some 2-stage epoxy, otherwise you'll probably want to order a replacement part for that as well.

Also, just because I'm a tutor, the word is "exorbitant", not "absorbent" ;-)

2 pack

assorted pack sand paper

lifetime supply of oxiclean

obsidian oil

edit:
paragon wax for hand polishing smooth pipes
halcyon II for hand polishing rusticated pipes[https://www.ebay.com/itm/Halcyon-II-Wax-for-the-Pipe/323134732335]

just have plenty of pipe cleaners, qtips, and either vodka, rubbing alcohol, or grain alcohol

What made you get that jig compared to the Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System? I know the Pocket Hole System costs about $50 more but it seems like it would be easier to use.

These do a great job also until the head is fully rounded out

TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_b0OkDbAQAGG1H

The cheapest whetstone isn't a stone at all - it's a sheet of lapping film. Put it on a perfectly flat surface (eg, a piece of plate glass or polished stone tile from the local home improvement store) and go to town.

> Acastus Knight Porphyrion

I'm not sure about that one. It's a mighty big model, but it's leg assembly seems to be more like a knight titan, than a cerestus or warhound. It doesn't have the inverted knee like the other knights do. No idea what cabin assembly is like either. The warhound cabin is a bunch of huge pieces, I don't know of anything that can prepare you for it. I used about 20 rubber bands while I was building, to make sure it all held together and looked good before gluing. There is a pic of my warhound WIP below, you can see how it's legs have 3 segments, making a forward joint, and reverse joint. Standard Knights and the porphyrion only have a forward, and Cerestus only have a reverse. The only non +warhound models I know of with similar 3 segment opposite joint style assembly are the decimator and I believe the kytan daemon engine.

For pinning big ass models, I still use paperclips. However instead of pinning straight across a joint, like you might on infantry, I go through the joint from the outside. You can see some paperclips under the warhounds foot. There is one in each toe that goes all the way through, so if the warhound wants to move, the pin must be pulled out. That is the only place I pinned the warhound though. I used big ass magnets on the head, torso, and arms so I could do this to transport it.

My knight titan has 3mm neodymium magnets in each arm. They are the same ones I use on marines, dreadnoughts and just about everything. They hold knight weaponry up decently, but some people prefer larger ones. You can get bulk magnets on ebay much cheaper than the hobby store, but if you don't want to wait, go to a hardware store, as they are still cheaper than hobby store.

I believe this dremel is the new version of the one I have. The flex shaft attachment makes life so much easier. A basic drill bit set is good for getting started, but make sure it has the same size as the magnets you use. I've started using jewelry bits for mine, and they are insane good. However the larger ones (1.5mm-3mm set) are difficult to use, as they cut more than bore. Just last night I couldn't keep a handle on the arm bit I was drilling, ended up flying across the room. On resin they are easier though. I bought a set of cutter bits from the hardware store. It was all spherical tip and tube tip of various sizes. It has been very useful for battle damage, and the tube tip is how I widen holes for giant ass magnets.

The real MVP of a dremel for hobby conversions and building has been the circular saw bits I got mine from a wood carving magazine, and they are paper thin. Not 100% about these ones, but they are great for precision cuts and removing chunks of resin.

Basically soak the stems in oxy clean and water for a bit, buff em down with a Mr Clean Magic Eraser, polish them with some Micro Mesh Pads, and finish them off by dabbing a pipe cleaner in some inert mineral oil (smokingpipes.com and others sell specific obsidian oil for this) and running it over the stem. If you want to keep the inlays on the stems and such you'll need to cover them with Vaseline before the oxy soak and be careful with the magic eraser and mesh pads.

You could use something like this kit, i have one and it very useful. Just make sure you measure your binding post size and cross check to see if this kit comes with the size you need.

IRWIN Tools Hanson Spiral Extractor and Drill Bit Set, 10 Piece, 11119 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CPgQBb1RK76C6

I just installed 4 spikes on my banjo. Placed them at the A, B, C and D frets on the fifth string. I installed the spikes facing inward (opening towards the other strings). I used this set of drill bits to drill the holes to set the spikes in:

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-628-01-Piece-Drill-Bit/dp/B0000302Z3

I used the 1/32" (.03125") bit, which was very close to the diameter of the spikes, drilling the holes with the drill bit just touching the string and 3/8" back from the fret. I put a dab of Elmer's glue on the spike and inserted them with needle nose pliers. I used a .015 feeler gauge under the spike as I pressed them into place (no hammering). Then I masked off the fret board and filed the sharp edges away from the tops and sides of the RR spikes.

They work great, and only pull the string slightly sharp, but a quick retune is no big deal. I can still fret the string if I want to, barely being able to tell they are there.

It only took about 30 minutes. The longest part was the drilling, using a hand drill and being careful not to press to hard and break the tiny bit. Here are two links which helped me out:

http://www.deeringbanjos.com/blogs/faqs/10318861-how-to-install-spikes

http://zeppmusic.com/banjo/spikes.htm

Sounds like you need a torx driver like this set.

Wiha 75992 System 4 Precision Interchangeable Bit Set, Torx, Slotted, Phillips, Hex Inch, ESD Safe Precision Handle, 27 Piece In Compact Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000WTBO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k5mDDb0TYJHX3

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eCy4Cb467MDW6

I like these kinds of kits, I have one like this (not sure which brand). Those reverse drill bits sometimes work better than the extractors.

Here is a link to an Amazon listing. But there were a lot of various brands and options when I searched “left hand drill bit” so you can browse and make a choice of your favorite.

My charger came with the batteries, and I suggest you just buy a kit with it all. Something like this

I have had my Eneloop for over almost 15-years now starting with the Xbox 360. For 5 of those years, it sat in storage, and still works great!

"perfect"

Pretty sure I can do it quicker with this and have the ability to change the diameter by 1/16ths

What is your budget?

A Kreg Jig would be a nice gift for someone starting out, although most people in this sub would turn up their noses at the sight of one.

Edit: also clamps, you can never have enough clamps. If you have a harbor freight nearby these are really cheap and work well enough.

Wiha, I bought this set when it was on sale a while ago to cover all my bases for knives and absolutely love it. I'm sure they have a torx set or something smaller closer to what you're looking for though.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000WTBO4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yup a big ass rubber stick and a bunch of sweat brings most of it back, some mud/dog shit spots(uncleaned Boosted #2 with 4k miles) won’t come out but it looks pretty good. I’ll take a pic of both boards I just cleaned them the day I posted the wheel comparison picture.

OK, so what I purchased from Harbor Freight was somthing similar to this:

* https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01925A-Extractor-Extractors-Cobalt/dp/B000F9ANQW/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=screw+extractor+kit&qid=1554384193&s=gateway&sr=8-12

​

However if you already have drill bits, including a small enough one for that buffer, then you'll just want one of these.

* https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-TIAMAT-Hardness-Extractors-Stripped/dp/B07GLPLV78/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=screw+extractor+kit&qid=1554384193&s=gateway&sr=8-11

* https://www.amazon.com/Damaged-Extractor-Stripped-Remover-Queenti/dp/B07P668VWV/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=screw+extractor+kit&qid=1554384193&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

​

{edit}

Forgot to say, if you already do have the drill bits, I would recommend #2 of the other 2 options, as those bits are double sided for more dual purpose work.

>So I've given up and have booked it in to the workshop, but I just hate how I cant seem to accomplish the simplest of mechanical tasks, I'm really just venting here. fuck my useless mechanical ability, I just ruin things like screw heads when I try >:( >:(

Few pointers from a guy whose been wrenching for a long time:

1. Every guy like me got to where we are by making a fucking disaster of various jobs and having to sort our way out. Shit, I learned how to extract broken bolts by...you guessed it...breaking bolts! It happens. Take it as a chance to learn a new skill and your overall skill will grow...get discouraged and book a mechanic and you will not learn the skills you need to grow as a mechanic. There is no gain without pain.
   
   
2. Some screws are made of fucking cheese and are going to strip no matter what you do, if they were put in hard and haven't been removed in a long time (or if they were painted, or rusted, or someone used the wrong locktite, or some dumbass jb welded them in place). This is just a fact of life, that sometimes you do everything right and you still ruin a screw.
   
   So what do you do?
   
   For those soft screws that love to strip: You use an impact screwdriver to break it loose and/or a good creeping lubricant to break the rust (PB blaster, Kroil).
   
   Once you munge a screw up badly, you will need an extractor set. I recommend you learn this skill by deliberately ruining a few screws that yo have screwed into a board and use the set to get them out.
   
   Here is one example of an extractor kit:
   
   http://www.amazon.com/SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor-Bolt/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414453572&sr=8-1&keywords=screw+extractor
   
   My advice to you:
   
   
3. Get an extractor kit and learn how it works.
   
   
4. Get an impact screwdriver and learn how it works.
   
   
5. If your problem is a bolt (m8 or larger) that is frozen, an impact driver (either electronic or pnuematic) is your best friend. There are some jobs like brake caliper bolts that practically demand an impact driver due to the rusting involved, and are prone to shearing the head off if you use a large bar instead of an impact driver. Every mechanic has one for a reason...they are necessary for many jobs on cars and motorcycles.
   
   
6. Cut yourself some slack.
   
   
7. If you are going to call in for help (we all have done it), you can start by taking your bike in and having a mechanic just get that screw out. Then you can finish the job yourself by ordering new screws from your dealer (the parts guy will help you find the right part numbers and order them for you...be nice to the parts guy, he is a tremendous ally!).
   
   
8. DO NOT give up on learning to work on your bike!
   
   
9. IF YOUR FAIRING SCREWS ARE PLASTIC...plastic is a WHOLE different animal and they are a nightmare. If this is what you are dealing with, let me know and I'll post different steps for you.
   
   
10. NEVER use the wrong size phillips screwdriver! Using one that is even slightly too small or too large will result in stripping. You should have a nice selection and always make sure you are using the correct one for the screw. This is VERY important for soft screws like plastic, aluminum, and brass.
    
    
11. The last point is also applicable to TORX, and HEX nuts/screws. I'm pretty much convinced that Torx was a created by a sadist to introduce untold suffering onto the world. Treat every TORX screw/bolt like it will strip on you. NEVER mistake a T27 for a T25 or you will have a bad day for sure. Harley Davidson loves to put soft torx screws all over their bikes and its maddening.
    
    
12. Learn when a 12 point socket is ok, and when a 6 point socket is ok. 6 point = high torque application. 12 point - only for low torque applications. I almost never use 12 point sockets these days.
    
    
13. Wear safety glasses anytime a power tool or compressed gas/air is in use. You will thank me for this one later.
    
    
    EDIT: Thanks for the gold, whoever sent that. Totally unnecessary but I appreciate it and gold helps reddit avoid selling out completely to advertisers. Cheers!

Try these, I use them on my refinishing projects. It's basically very fine sandpaper and will definitely accomplish what you're after.

As a carpenter, this is the set that I prefer. The charge time and battery life is great and they both work very well.

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LCT200W-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B000V2DSE2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419307247&sr=8-1&keywords=makita+impact+driver+drill+set+18v

These are amazing, but essentially the same thing as micromesh. I usually start on the 9 micron and work my way down to the 1 micron. If you are opposed to any abrasive "removal" smoothing, I have also had some luck with glass... I use an old Galaxy S3's screen, but I've also heard of people just using a window pane.

Neiko 01925A Alloy Screw Extractor Solid Cobalt Left Hand Drill Bits Set, 10-Piece https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000F9ANQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ac3xzbK2JWX51

$23.93 CAD (pesos).

I've had them for a year and they have held up just as good as my old set of snap-on ones.

I’d use a hand impact driver. ( and I have various air tools). They are about the only things that work on slotted screws like that. https://www.amazon.ca/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=asc_df_B000NPPATS/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292995173425&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4683897586214222232&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001423&hvtargid=pla-420785539586&psc=1

Edit( the force of hitting it with a hammer helps to drive it out)

Well once you get the screw out get yourself this amazing driver set
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-Precision-Interchangeable-Slotted-Phillips/dp/B0000WTBO4?crid=2R9SYNV61YMX8&keywords=wiha+screwdriver+set&qid=1535862350&sprefix=wiha&sr=8-11&ref=mp_s_a_1_11
I have this set and absolutely love it and havent stripped a screw since getting it

POWERTEC 71002 Abrasive Cleaning Stick for Sanding Belts & Discs Natural Rubber Build | For Woodworking Shop Sanding Perfection | A"Must Have" Sanding Accessory https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AJW0CY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_r2xGDbVMCGHSE

I recently purchased this cleaner: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AJW0CY8

I was able to clean dirt and mud from my grip tape in around 10 minutes and make it look like new ;)
For $9.5 you will get probably like 20-30 through cleanups of both pads.

POWERTEC 71002 Abrasive Cleaning Stick for Sanding Belts & Discs Natural Rubber Build | For Woodworking Shop Sanding Perfection | A"Must Have" Sanding Accessory https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AJW0CY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eSVSDb217ERJ1

Get this, you will never use all of it and it’s only 10$

My current set the compact set from Makita: http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LCT200W-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B000V2DSE2/ref=sr_1_6?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1310495108&sr=1-6

They can be had cheaper during black-friday sales and the like.

The biggest win vs. a NiCad is first weight. LiIon is far, far lighter for the same power load.

Second, LiIon have a more usable power. NiCad degrades rather linearly. Ie, the more you use it, the less power it puts out. LiIon will hold on and produce roughly the same output until you've used about 90% of the charge.

Third, LiIon can (and SHOULD) be charged before you use them all the way to zero. They don't suffer the "charge memory" thing that NiCad does.

Specific benefit to that Makita set: Charge time from almost 0 to 100% full is 15 minutes. 15 minutes.

there are some SUPER fine grit papers. SO fine that you can barely even tell they're sandpaper. You can use these to smooth out nibs that just aren't quite right on the paper yet. I have some 362L 9 micron that I picked up somewhere, but this looks like it may be a good assortment on Amazon Although I have no idea: I've never used these.

I use the following(links below). I've seen them all available at walmart for not too much more.
Using the drill press you wont break any bits, at least I havent. If you size your holes correctly the lack of copper in the middle of the hole will guide your drill bit automatically so you can be off center by a small amount. I've made about 40 boards all with a crapton of holes and still havent worn out my smallest drill "1/32" bit which I use constantly.

The smallest drill bit I've been able to find is 1/32 which works for chips that fit into a breadboard. I haven't found smaller but if you see something smaller get it because even 1/32 is a pretty big hole for the majority of leads. Its about 2x too big for most chip feet.


http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-628-01-Piece-Drill-Bit/dp/B0000302Z3/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1414792230&sr=1-1&keywords=dremel+drill+bits


http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4486-MultiPro-Keyless-Chuck/dp/B0000302ZV/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1414792230&sr=1-2&keywords=dremel+drill+bits

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-Workstation-Drill-Press-Holder/dp/B008F6HLS0/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1414792250&sr=1-4&keywords=dremel+drill+press

For that last part, they make the hand impact drivers that does exactly this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_s1QPCbJW6THVR

There's a flat driver in that set, slot it into the slot, get a good grip, and hit it with a hammer. It simultaneously impact the bolt to break the rust while at the same time turn the bolt out.

I'm about to buy a Color N Drive touch up paint set so I could touch up all the paint chips before I give my new-to-me vehicle a wash/clay/wax. Now, the vehicle is about 10 years old, so I don't expect the paint to match exactly, but I think it'll be close enough. I have a couple questions about repairing paint chips that go down to the metal.

1. Would something like this be appropriate for wetsanding down a small area of exposed metal? Slightly rusty but I want to stop it before it spreads. About 1/2 cm in diameter.
   
   
2. Does anyone know where I can get touch up primer paint for cheap? The only one I could find on Amazon as an undercoat for paint was about $8+$6 shipping. There are a couple cheaper 3M ones but it says its used as an undercoat before wrapping your car. I don't want to pay shipping on something so small, so as an alternative maybe I'll go to Home Depot and buy a full on can of spray on primer and spraying a paint brush before dabbing the exposed metal on my car.
   
   Thanks for reading.

Amazon Prime > sex:

• Neiko 01925A Screw Extractor and Left Hand Drill Bit Set, 10 Piece
  
• COMOWARE Left Hand Drill Bit Set- 29 Piece, High Speed Steel,Black and Gold, Size 1/16"-1/2"
  
• Drill Hog USA 5 Pc Left Handed Drill Bit Set Niobium Nb41
  
  Seriously. After breaking a bolt or two on my Subaru I got fed up and bought a Makita metric bit kit. Where'd ya think I found it to get it to my house in < 3 days?

I have a 2008 BMW 335i. It has the N54 twin turbo 3.0L engine. I bought the car with 51k miles almost 5 years ago. It now has around 88k. Here's a rough list of what I've done so far:

• spark plugs, easy diy
  
• water pump and thermostat, relatively easy DIY if you have small hands. Parts were ~$400 or something like that.
  
• clutch delay valve delete, ~$20 or $30 for the part; relatively easy diy
  
• rear brakes; you'll need a hand impact driver to get the rotor set screw off
  
• front control arms; you'll need an assortment of 20mm+ sockets and wrenches, as well as a breaker bar, and a torque wrench capable of 122 lb-ft; this one was a pain in the cunning linguals, primarily due to the fact that the car has to be at ride height before torquing down the frame bolts. This means that you need to alternate between jack stands and ramps.
  
• valve cover gasket; a bit of a pita. The valve cover is plastic, so it's generally recommended to replace along with the gasket. ~$300 and change. Took most of a weekend, but I took my time.
  
• carbon cleaning; had to buy a media blasting kit for this. I already had a harbor freight 21 gallon compressor. It has to refill between cylinders, so ~6 or 7 times per walnut blasting session.
  
• oil filter housing gasket; got about half-way through with this today, actually
  
  In general, I will say that I've managed to DIY just about everything on this car, with the exception of the air conditioner evaporator. That I had done at my local A/C shop, but I've since seen someone on the e90 forums do it themselves.
  
  I have had to buy quite a few tools and accessories along the way: a battery trickle-charger for the water pump bleed process, media blaster for the carbon cleaning, torx and e-torx bits/sockets, steering hub spreader for shocks (forgot this in the list above), impact hammer thing for brake rotors, extended low-profile jack, and so on and so on.
  
  The most frustrating thing though was getting the BMW software to work. It's necessary for registering a new battery (so that it charges properly), or for installing new fuel injectors (they have individual flow rates and tolerances).
  
  OH. I almost forgot. The waste gates on my turbos are rattling, and I'm out of warranty, so I'm looking at ~$1500-$2000 for new turbos some time this year. After that, it'll be new front wheel bearings. As soon as things stop breaking, I'll maybe have some time for upgrades and/or tune. =)
  
  I should add, that the only reason I am even willing to do this stuff is because my wife and I commute to work together, so my car can be in pieces for weeks at a time if it needs to. Were that to change, I'd probably have to ditch this car for something more reliable.
  
  Edit: After I finish all of the above, I'm going to polish and seal my headlights. I pretty much have to do this, since I'm sure as shit not going to pay $1k per light. >8|
  
  
  I kind of got off topic. You asked about the feasibility of maintaining a car like this on your own. It's definitely possible, but it helps to know what you can expect down the road.

Meh, you'd probably be better off with some jeweler grade sandpaper. Plus that seems pretty specific to countries that use monopoly money for currency.

> As an aside, just bite the bullet and drill those damn screws out.

If the heads haven't been ruined yet, on a 2010 they should come out pretty easily with an impact screwdriver, which you can sometimes rent from auto parts stores.

The hollow sound definitely makes me think there's either a dented dust shield or a piece of debris stuck between the shield and rotor. However, I had a grinding noise sort of like this once that turned out to be one of the pad clips having slightly cracked and warped such that it could rub the rotor under braking.

LeatheL has spot on advice, but don't forget if you ever plan on using a sled set-up you may find you don't have enough depth from a 6" set.

For what it's worth, I have been using a Freud 8" set since 2002, the teeth are all in great shape, I clean them when I have been cutting exotic woods like Jatoba or blackwood, or when they start to get a gummy build up. My 2 hp contractor saw has a hard time taking full passes set at 3/4" width, My 5hp cabinet saw has no problem taking full depth cuts at max width, but it leaves burn marks, so I always take a couple of passes.

This is the set I have had for 12+ years, if I upgrade it will be to the Freud SuperStack 8"
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223O9/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687742&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00004RK0P&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1E6H0FQEW8YNTCZQ1BJ4

Wanting to get a decent airbrush compressor with tank. Amazon recommends this unit and I'm not sure if that'll work or not. Reviews are good and its in my price range. Would be open to suggestions if that's not a great idea or whatnot.

Thanks for the help!

One piece of advice, whether you find sandpaper or end up using something equivalent to a much higher grit paper, is to never skip grits. For example, if you want to bring them to a mirror finish it might seem like going from 400 to 2000 would save time over doing 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, and 2000, but the more intermediate grits you use, the faster things will go even counting the time to change paper. You'll only need a few swipes with each one. And if 400 doesn't seem to be doing anything at first, don't be afraid to start lower.

Something like this 36 piece incremental set from Amazon for $8 will give you all the grits you'll need.

Yeah that hole doesn't look too good TBH. Hopefully it didn't damage the threads. The smallest one in the kit I showed you has a minimum of 2.5mm but it should still work on the 2mm screw. You can also find a spare 2mm allen key you don't need and use the strongest Gorilla glue you can find and glue it onto the screw. Slowly try to unscrew it after an hour or so. Take it to your LBS and see if they can help. There's also this which goes as low as M3

Edit. Just looked at the other angle pic you posted. Screw extractor most likely won't work. Try the allen key method.

Don't do compressed air. Either a CO2 tank with a good regulator, or a comressor. I have this one, I think, got it for something like $120. Very quiet, about the size of a laptop, you can use the plug in the picture for scale.

Like this set, https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2691-22-18-Volt-Compact-Impact/dp/B001F7BIMG/ ?

Will the Kregg drill bit fit?

You drill into it with a reverse (left handed) drillbit, running your drill in reverse. That will probably bring the bolt out, but if it doesn't you use an Easy Out screw extractor to screw it out. Here is a kit with both left handed bits and extractors. You can get individual tools at a local hardware store. Soak it well wit PB Blaster first.

This is the kit I have. The smaller impact driver is phenomenal for about 99% of jobs, and lighter and more compact (as well as having a better heft or balance, IMHO) than most others.

http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-K4-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B001DYFISG

its this thing. I just bought it for other furniture projects and everyone seems to love it as an alternative to biscuit or other joint methods

definitely not that. Bosch bits arent even that good, and that price is astronomical. I think that seller is offering it well over retail if I had to guess.

Get 1/2" shanks whenever possible.

I started with this set

http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1465239946&sr=1-3&keywords=router+bit+set

Its decent, it covers most of the bases without being wasteful with stuff you'll never use.

I have added to my collection with frued bits when I find that I use it alot, roundover, flush trim, straight bits mostly. And then some others that werent in the set.

Get the tools in the picture. They're great, and relatively cheap.

If you buy ANY woodworking tools. I suggest a table saw (duh), a router and a router table. This is also the set I have that I bought to start with. Seems to be working great

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FJRN8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For oil change, a standard socket set, a drain pan and maybe an oil filter wrench is all you really need.

Depending on what you’re doing with your carbs, you might invest in an impact hammer set like this one: TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8VjCCbNQD190X. This will prevent stripping the screws during disassembly.

You might also want to do a valve check which will require some feeler gauges. If you wanna cheap out on a valve adjustment, you can use some sand paper to bring your shims into spec. Otherwise you’re gonna need to buy some replacement shims.

The taper is a 2. This is the one I bought. Works great.

Yeah, that sound good. I saw those Micro Mesh sanding pads and I think I am going to order them.

https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Mesh-Assortment-Pack-18-Pieces/dp/B00HJC156U

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JHKSLSW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have this set of rechargeable batteries that came with some C and D spacers. They work great.

I also have the polished Freud SD208 and have been very happy.

I think Makita is an excellent brand. But the batteries are very small and low-power on that kit. If I where you, I'd spend a little more and get this instead: http://amzn.com/B000V2DSE2 . I have an older version of that set and it has worked well for many years. Although even those batteries are small-ish for big projects (e.g. insufficient drilling holes and driving screws to deck small porch in one charge).

I would say the bare minimum of power tools are going to be a circular saw, jigsaw and drill. Combine the circular saw with a straight edge (i.e. a very straight piece of wood/metal) used as a guide and you can cut out all of your panels.

Then onto the speaker holes. After laying out where the holes will be, drill a hole big enough to fit the jigsaw blade close to the edge of one of the speaker layout lines. Then use the jigsaw to carefully cut out the rest of the hole. This part will take practice to make the best cut. After that, I believe the holes for the rear connections would be all that's left before prepping for construction.

At this point, you have your panels cut and you need to decide where the crossover will live. I'm assuming you have everything to solder the crossover up so I won't address that. But definitely try to plan the placement so you can still reach it somewhat within the box.

Now for the final requirement: Clamps...Lots of clamps. Particularly [bar clamps] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F-clamp) since they will have the reach to span the length of the box sides when you glue it up.

Of course, this is bare bones. You could always substitute a table saw for the circular saw and a router+circular jig for the jigsaw and get much better results, but I'm not sure how deep you wanted to get into woodworking.

If you can part with $35 or so, I suggest this in the interim:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004CVJC20/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What I do is make a basic shape with the spindles on the lathe, then drill a hole lengthwise through the peice. Then run a bolt through the wood, so that it sticks out 1" or so on one side. Then clamp the bolt with this chuck.

Yeah, there's a hole in your piece, but it adds a little freedom until you have $180 to drop on a chuck.

See MS paint drawing below. The wood is a cutaway view.

http://i.imgur.com/TY8f5aJ.png

I bought this one about 6 months ago and love it.

Jasper 200J Model 200 Circle Cutting Jig for Plunge Router https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009K77A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_r1oezbKFHXNVB

Is that flange metal or plastic?

I'd drip a little oil down there. PB blaster if you have it. WD-40 or light machine oil if you don't.

Then get a set of left-hand drill bits and pick a small one. Go slowly with the drill in reverse and try to get it to bite. If the hole gets ~1/4" down and it hasn't bit in yet, try the matching extractor. If that doesn't work, move up a drill bit size and extractor size.

Eventually it'll get to the point where you've just drilled out the whole screw--destroying the threads in the flange in the process. This is okay. If it gets that far, get a tap in the next larger size and replace the screw with that larger size. And get a stainless screw for sure. And wax or copper grease it to help keep it from freezing to the flange in the future.

MLCS 8377 15-Piece Router Bit Set with Carbide-Tipped 1/2-Inch Shanks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FJRN8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Wr2SybQJ8VEMY

I saw this set recommend in this sub. I have the same router as you and I've been happy with them.

Zona 37-948 3M Wet/Dry Polishing Paper, 8-1/2-Inch X 11-Inch, Assortment Pack One Each 1, 2, 3, 9, 15, and 30 Micron https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BHGC7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_29AYxb62FZ12A

I used them all that came in the pack. That's probably not necessary. Just keep going until you're happy with the look. I may take it back to a brushed look someday. Can always polish it back to shiny.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HJC156U/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1458088485&sr=8-2&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=micromesh

When I wear these out, I'll happily buy the same again.

Just spots but there are a lot of them. I got the squeegee version because I have so many. I have never done any chip repair on my car before. I got a sanding pen (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FN8H52) to try to clean out any rust and I suppose rough them up.

I like extractor sets with reverse drill bits. Often they'll come out before you have a chance to use the extractor.

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01925A-Alloy-Extractor-Cobalt/dp/B000F9ANQW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450035946&sr=8-1&keywords=extractor+set+with+reverse+bits

And you absolutely need one of these!

TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BpUDDbSQB0RGV

I'd hit it with the penetrating oil (not sure what kroil is) a couple times waiting a few minutes in between to give it time to work.

Grab one of these as well. Is the old style impact driver. You whack the end with a hammer which is what turns the mechanism. It can go left or right so make sure you have it set to the correct one.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=impact+driver&qid=1550950294&s=gateway&sr=8-8

If those are standard size screws, you can change to Allen screws which can be easier to remove. Just make sure you don't over torque. And consider putting a little anti seize on there when installing.

can you chuck it back up? Try the micromesh pads

then a superglue finish or shellac (got those from the pen turner guys and gals)

while i agree that those grits are overkill for wood... what are you really out? an hour or 2 of work and 20 bucks of materials you can reuse in the future?

You need an impact driver,
TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_VVNsDbWB1P6WT
Some like this are cheap, nicer ones are out there but if you only need it once it might not be worth it.

I have had to use one on my first bikes brake reservoir, and 3 of my friends... they come in handy.

Definitely magnets. Not just so that you can switch out weapon configurations to allow your units to adapt and change roles as you add more units to your army, but also to future-proof your collection.

GW likes to do things like make a certain weapon loadout stomp face in one codex, and then be mediocre in the next update. The most notable time that this happened to me, I had recently finished building four broods of tyranid termigants with fleshborers. 60 models. There was no other way to go in that codex; if you built your 'gants any other way, you were wasting points. The new 'dex came out, the weapons didn't work the same anymore, and you were a fool not to take devourers. That was a bad day.

Magnets don't take much time (I spend less time magnetizing parts than I do scraping mold lines), and they don't really take a substantial investment, either. Here are the tools I use: pin vice with different sized collets (in the handle), $9.95USD; Dremel bits to gradually increase the size of the hole, important to start with a guide hole and gradually work up to the size of your magnet, $6.21, 200x 3mmx1mm magnets, 4.01. For $20.17, you can make your units super versatile, and know that you won't have to buy a new squad if GW changes the rules.

Although you're new to the game, magnetizing is a cool skill set to have. You have a lot more latitude when you make army lists (especially important for players that are developing a feel for the game, army, or local metagame), you can make dual-purpose squads (need jump troops? Good thing there are magnets on those backpacks!), and you can keep GW from making you choose whether to buy 60 more 'gants or try to pry off all of their stupid little arms and replace them.

Don't sweat it, I have the same lathe. It's not some one off oddball, so you can find anything you want for it, just like the Jet mini's and stuff.

I have this chuck, these pen jaws, and this pen mandrel. Oh, and this drill chuck.

The chuck comes with everything you need to get started with bowls and such. All the other stuff I use for pens.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V2DSE2/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00

Lightweight, compact, and powerful. Battery lasts for a long time and recharges fast. Don't waste any money on cheaper cordless drills.

These will really help if you start to get into the hobby more:


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00009K77A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1383050908&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00009K77D/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1383050908&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

I own 2 SRs and only use them occasionally. I like my DEs.

I have found an inexpensive solution for honing them however. I use lapping film.

Some useful links:

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/283576-Lapping-film-try-it.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dsp2u7L_WuY.

• 30 micron= 400 grit
  
• 15=600
  
• 9=1200
  
• 3=4000
  
• 2=6000
  
• 1=8000
  
  The vendor mentioned above doesn't sell ,5 or ,3 (12 and 16K) micron film, but others do, which would be the full progression necessary for honing.
  
  
  

This is what I have and I've always gotten good results.

*the dewalt has the same number of teef. durrrrr

TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rp.ZDb3MSFFNV

Abrasive cleaning sticks are pretty commonly used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AJW0CY8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Jetbeam-E10R/dp/B06WWG5ZCT/?tag=parametrek-20

This sub inspired me to buy a mini-sun, now I have two more on the way

https://www.amazon.com/Jetbeam-E10R/dp/B06WWG5ZCT/?tag=parametrek-20 Thanks for doing the giveaway!

Recently got this and it works awesome!!

I had dried bourbon (don’t ask) that I thought stained the grip tape but this pulled it right off.

POWERTEC 71002 Abrasive... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AJW0CY8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I've had success extracting a broken bolt with this kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYBH8/

I'm sure any similar product will work.

Looks good. Try using this:
Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System www.amazon.com/dp/B001DYFISG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_z9z8wb79TPCTJ

There is a manual impact driver that will work better than any electric driver. You basically put it on the screw then hit it with a hammer (preferably a dead blow hammer for best results) and it will literally break any screw loose, I’ve used one for many years in the navy on gun mounts when the screws were seized in place due to the rust.

The benefits are that it won’t strip the screws out and it’s cheap enough that you can pick it for about $20 or less at places like harbor freight.

The down side is that it can be hard to use sometimes when in a tight spot while trying to hit the head and it’s not as fast as an electric impact.

If I were you I would use the manual impact to break them loose then use the electric impact to speed up the removal. Here’s a amazon link so you can see what it looks like TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pxIZDbMCYSWGE

I’ve been using this Paasche compressor and it’s been excellent so far. Precise control of pressure with a gauge and a moisture trap built in. It’s decently quiet too. I’ve heard tankless compressors can cause issues with sputtering paint due to potentially inconsistent airflow so a compressor with a tank could likely resolve those issues. I’m also using an Iwata eclipse.

Get this (same as Grip Gum) to clean the grip tape: http://amzn.to/2qu0iSr

You just run it over the grip tape like an eraser and it removes embedded dirt.

I have 75992 and really like it.

If you have clamps already, I really like this one:
http://smile.amazon.com/Kreg-K4-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B001DYFISG

If you're going to use it semi-regularly, being able to set it once and then make 20 similar holes is very handy.

If it's just a one-time project, then one of the smaller ones work, too.

More like this pack:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Wetordry-Sandpaper-03006-Assorted/dp/B005JPGTNI

You can use this to clean out the chip.

These keep popping up as recommended bits. I got a set, but haven't used them much. Seem fine and a decent price for a decent selection.

I got mine from Amazon. I got this exact package went it was on sale for $17. It goes on sale a few times a year. I'd keep an eye out on slick deals for it, they sell out pretty quickly. I wouldn't buy it for $33, but at $25 or lower sure.

This is what I use to polish out scratches in pens, woodworking, shaving razors, car headlights, etc etc. It's really cool stuff.

I use a set like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000302Z3/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465749577&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=dremel+drill+bits&dpPl=1&dpID=413x6KLCXBL&ref=plSrch

I got this set. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000WTBO4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 because you never if you'll need something other than a torx, like with the Sebenza that uses hex.

I like this set, all the extractors come with a matching left handed drill bit.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYBH8/

Try using an impact driver, something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qzCBDb9KRYWE8

Start with tons of lube(I like Kroil and LiquidWrench), then use an impact driver with the correct size bit.

I would recommend this tool.

220 or 320 -> 400 -> 1000 -> 2000-> 4000 -> 6000ish

some thing like this
https://smile.amazon.com/Micro-Mesh-Assortment-Pack-18-Pieces/dp/B00HJC156U

then go through maybe 5000-6000

then polish with a felt pad

then final buff with lambswool pad

is how i do it

Try a [fiberglass pen](KTI (KTI-70550) Sanding Pen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FN8H52/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0-fNAbT6MCGJ4) go really easy as you can easily go too far. Tape off around the switches to keep the broken bits of fiberglass and dust from getting in your keyboard.

Agreed. You get more for your money, e.g.: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AJW0CY8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

It's just a set of bits for a router, not particularly rare, fancy or expensive. New set would be 40-100 my guess http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FJRN8S/ref=s9_top_hd_bw_bD4kJ_g469_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&pf_rd_r=0854NJ7BABDQGVB3ZS0H&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=e3873ec3-2071-56f1-b304-96ab142fe7ba&pf_rd_i=3116511 put them on craigslist or ebay and I'm sure some woodworker will pick them up.

Yeah, probably. I typically used an impact driver (similar to this one http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LCT200W-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B000V2DSE2/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1398885605&sr=1-2) anyway, and it's rare that the bit comes out of the head with that. Stripping the wood is much more common.