Reddit mentions: The best power tool replacement parts

Here are the basics, I will edit if I think of any more essential tools, but you can go an awfully long way with these.

Hand Tools:

• Hand saw- I prefer Japanese style pull saws, meaning they cut on the pull stroke. My go to utility saw is a Vaughn bear saw, which is a robust package, with several types of interchangeable blades. There are countless types of saws, for different uses, but a fine toothed Japanese saw will get you by for most things.
  
  
• Combination square- A sliding ruler square, perfect for marking and layout. you will also want a speed square eventually, so you might as well get one.
  
  
• Tape measure- Start with a basic 25' tape, and get more as needed.
  
  
• Basic chisel set- Most of the entry grade chisels are pretty much the same, this Irwin set is a pretty good buy. to start with a set of 1/4", 1/2", and 1" are all you really need, but you can never have enough chisels.
  
  
• Block plane- A low angle block plane will get you a long ways breaking corners and trimming pieces. Stanley makes a great, affordable, option. As time goes by you will need a jack plane, but a block plane will do for now.
  
  
• Sharpening equipment- A fine diamond stone like this will get you a long way keeping your chisels and plane sharp. You should do research into sharpening methods as you use your tools more, and build a system that fits you.
  
  
• Hammer- A cheap smooth face hammer. Build a wooden mallet as a starter project.
  
  
• Clamps- You always need more clamps. Big clamps. Small clamps. Weird clamps. I like bar clamps. Harbour Freight has good deals on fair clamps, but don't expect too much out of them. To start with get a couple with ~8" throat, and a couple with ~18" throat.
  
  Power Tools:
  
  
• Cordless drill- If you're willing to spend the money for a good, reliable, tool I recommend Makita, but a Ryobi or Rigid will serve you well if you're just working on small projects. Everyone has their favourite cordless tool brand, and, for the most part, it really is just preference. I highly recommend adding an impact driver and circular saw to whichever system you choose.
  
  
• Circular Saw- If you want to work with plywood or larger sticks, you will want a circular saw, which is the most basic power saw. Most of the major tool companies make fine starter saws, Skil is the original, and is quite cheap, but there are plenty of others, browse a store and see what takes your fancy.
  
  
• Jig saw- A jig saw is used for cutting curves, and you will eventually need it if you build enough things. I prefer Bosch but there are cheaper options. See what feels right to you.
  
  
• Miter saw- You don't need this right away, but if you start doing more projects you will want one. I recommend going right to a sliding compound miter saw, like this Dewalt. You will never need more miter saw than that, and if you get a small one you will eventually end up buying a the real deal.
  
  
• Table saw- Again, you don't need this right away, but eventually you will feel you need the precision and ease that a table saw brings. The Rigid portable table saw is a great saw if you're working in tight quarters and need to pack up, but you'll appreciate the appreciate the stability of a cast iron topped cabinet saw if you have the cash and space for it.
  
  Misc:
  
  
• Drill bits- Get a cheap twist drill set that goes from 1/16" to 1/2" and a basic spade bit set. Later you will want a set of forstners and hole saws.
  
  
• Utility knife
  
  
• Driver bits
  

• The music kit I bought came with a hole punch and paper, so you can get started right out the box. There are ones that are around 10 dollars cheaper but use plastic gears which I heard wear down easily. If you don't mind hand cranking it, you can just toss it in a woodbox and go from there.
  
  
• Here's the motor and speed controller that I used in my build. You just need to hook up the motor and a power source to the speed control, and then find a way to mechanically turn the crank with the motor. I just used a hex coupling to attach a piece of stiff cardboard to the end of the motor shaft which turns the crank. It might be easier to just go with a motor-run music box instead, that way you just need to clip the wires and hook up to the speedcontrol (or just use as is if you dont need to adjust speed!)
  
  
  
• The wheel was made from two film reels I found in a local garage sale with some nuts and a threaded rod, and it's held up by two wire coat hangers that I bended to fit.
  
  
• The paper with the actual song on it needs to be hole punched for each note, this is a great site where you can fully program a piece to see how it would sound before actually punching the paper. It also lets you export the piece as a pdf with x's on the exact places to punch holes so the process is a lot cleaner.
  
  Other than that, its just woodwork to frame all the parts into one piece, where there are a ton of better resources than me on the subject. Keep in mind just settling on handcranking the box is loads of fun on its own.
  Feel free to pm me if have any more questions on it and good luck if you actually decide to go for it!

Craftsman is junk; Husky is decent; Snap On is overpriced.

I re-tooled last summer from my old Williams set. Here's what I wound up with:

-Snap On GF80: 3/8" drive ratchet, got it off ebay for $50. I probably wouldn't buy again, but it is very nice.

-Pittsburgh Pro extendable 1/2" drive and flex-head 1/4" ratchets: Less than $20 each, and they are 90% as good as the Snap On. I would probably buy the 3/8" instead of the Snap On, if I had to do it over again.

-Pittsburgh Pro 1/2" drive impact sockets: These boys have taken some abuse at this point, and other than the etching having been stripped off of a couple (see abuse above), they are still in great shape. $25 for shallow, $32 for deep, Metric or SAE.

-GearWrench 3/8" drive impact sockets: $60 for a pretty complete (8mm-19mm + 21mm, 5/16"-3/4") set, and they are very thin-walled so you don't really need chrome.

-Pittsburgh Pro 3/8" chrome (shallow only): $9/set for 12-point sockets, which is the only reason I got them.

-Pittsburgh Pro 1/4" chrome sockets, shallow and deep: Overpriced, really, but I got the color-coordinated ones which are pretty cool. I might go for a cheaper set if I had to do it again. $8-9/set.

-GearWrench Long Pattern Wrench Set: I got the 22-piece Metric set (6mm-32mm with some skips) for $97; I haven't bothered to get the SAE set, I just have a handful of Pittsburgh SAE wrenches on a wrench ring.

And a big rally box to put it all in. I bet you could get all of it for under $500 if you use coupons at Harbor Freight and shop around for the GearWrench stuff.

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I also got a DeWalt cased set to keep in my trunk:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-1-4-in-x-3-8-in-Drive-Polished-Chrome-Mechanics-Tool-Set-200-Piece-DWMT75000/206510555

But I had to add some wrenches (it has 10mm, 11mm, 13mm and 14mm; wtf?!) to my trunk bag to make it "complete," and even then it has some oddness to it (3/8" drive starts at 14mm, so you'd better not have any really tight 12mm bolts...) so it might not be what you are looking for, but they make a few different sets.

----------------------------------------------------

Other things I considered:

https://www.amazon.com/Williams-50614-2-Inch-Socket-146-Piece/dp/B00HR1Q5F4

$320 for a complete Williams socket set, but the wrenches are about the same...

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This might be the "bang for the buck" winner, simply for the completeness of the socket sets:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYZ2IJ5

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDO6L90

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OZJN3PQ

$270 ($180 for 1/2", $88 for 1/4" and 3/8") for a staggeringly complete set (10mm-32mm in 1/2" drive, shallow and deep, with no skips!) and then $42/set for the wrenches, 8mm-22mm.

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https://www.amazon.com/KD-Tools-KDT-80942-239-Piece/dp/B00OL2XFLO

GearWrench socket, wrench and allen key set, $210 for a whole bunch of tools, although they aren't the high-tooth-count ratchets.

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https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/hand-tool-sets/301-pc-mechanics-tool-set-63464.html

Then there's this thing. It is actually quite well reviewed, and surprisingly complete on the socket side, if a little short on wrenches. It's usually on sale for $160.

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056E11QW

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BT0AYG0

...and then there's the dream: If I could get away with having this stripped-down of a set... $600 for a very nice, but fairly bare-bones set. No deep-well, no 3/8" drive at all (hello, super-tight 12mm bolts!), and only great big long extensions... if you never need to get into really tight spaces, maybe. The 3/8" drive set is another $260 on top of this, and still doesn't have short extensions or deep-well sockets.

So this is what I've done over the course of a few years:

• Harbor Freight Dust Collector (I think it's around $160 w/ coupon)
  
• Wynn 35A NANO filter (around $200 w/ shipping)
  
• McMaster Carr Fiber Drum (32415T32 to be exact; around $40 w/ shipping)
  
• Rockler Expandable Hose I think I got the 21' long one on sale at some point for like $42
  
  From there you can make a Thien baffle out of scrap 1/2" plywood or whatever you'd like. You'll want a 4" elbow (around $10) and a 4" coupler (around $6). I'd also suggest building a sort of cart for your new Frankenstein dust collector and this is a good one to strive for.
  
  Finally, you'll want a Dust Collector Remote and this one I've had for a while and works great for $60.
  
  So, for all of that you're looking at right around $500 w/ around a $100 to play around with. Maybe spruce up your cart w/ some fancy casters or grab some connectors (I like the Dust Right ones from Rockler to further streamline workflow)
  
  That takes you right around to your budget. I think the HF model with the Wynn filter and Thien baffle is a great investment. I love mine.

Yeah I tend to scour Craigslist and local estate auctions for equipment and stuff I could modify. MPLS has some decent used equip from time to time, as does Duluth, but you have to be patient, and ready to jump when something comes up. There are some other good DYI suggestions people have made here. I have made a Flat lap for thundereggs and agate geodes with a 110V motor, an arbor adapter to convert my motor shaft to a threaded end that accepts angle grander attachments (5/8-11) and bought a 7" Velcro head and silicon carbide sand pads. Works awesome. I got the motor for $20 on craigslist, and everything else cost less than $60. Its basically a 'Richardson's Ranch Thunderegg polisher' clone. Richardsons Ranch uses a 3450 rpm motor, which I have, but I may switch it out to a 1725 rpm as it gets the stones hot quick.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MZKTWG6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/Black-Heavy-Duty-Sanding-Discs/dp/B07CBCCBN9?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ELTZ1W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This :-) If the birthday is still a bit away, Aliexpress is a good source for large kits that can be used for all sorts of projects; $22, $26 (Mega, Ultrasonic...), and single compatible UNO or Nano cost $2.60/$1.70 or so.

.

I build simple car-robots with students, and while you can get a whole set for around $15, they aren't too expensive if you buy locally either (e.g. 1, 2); It's rather easy to hook up, and even with just 10 lines of programming it's ready to drive around objects by itself.

Here's a kit similar to the ones from Aliexpress, but from a German seller; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Starter-Kit-fur-Arduino-UNO-R3-RFID-mit-Modulen-Sensoren-1602-LCD-Display-Ras-/181965808319?hash=item2a5e01e2bf:g:Jz4AAOSwepJXVUFe - so should not take too long (When I order from the UK to Germany it usually takes a week tops).

Also consider picking up a NodeMCU Wifi board, lots of fun for home automation, robots, remote controlled gadgets... (1, 2)


Does he have a soldering iron? Many try to avoid it, and you usually get away with it :-) I tried avoiding soldering as much as I can, until I got a decent soldering iron. Now it wasn't just easier, but also fun. It's actually easier then trying to splice wires, building complex circuits with jumpers, searching for loose connections... While something like the Hakko fx-888d is great, even a simpler soldering station with adjustable temperature will do to get started 1 2

Yes! Finishing PLA. I know this! :D

Glue:
For quick projects I just use a glue gun, but for more permanent glue, E6000 seems to work pretty well.

Sanding:
Standard emery boards/nail files for little rough areas, and a Dremel with the Dremel 428 Carbon Steel Brush for the harder stuff (like on the blue pieces in your photoset)

Surface Prep for Paint
Spray Paint Primer with Filler. Srsly. Need it smoother? Sand, spray, repeat until happy.

Paint
Want some easy fool-proof spray paint? This specific line of Rust-oleum seems to be fool proof: Rustoleum Metallic Spray. Results are amazingly smooth and shiny. It's a thick paint and seems to fill in any remaining gaps left. Use light coats for coverage, then a couple heavy ones. Seems to dry fast too.

A few amazon recommendations:

XR Charging port cover: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072Z41BT9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This one stays on pretty well. I pretty much only put it on if there's a possibility of a rain shower on my way.

XR Power Button cover: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ISNX7LO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These don't stay on as well as the Charge Port covers, but they get the job done for possibly rainy ridge, and they're cheap enough to not worry if one falls off during a spill.

Cheap but effective handle: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RPBA606/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the handle I ended up going with. It works well, though it does slide a little down the rails. So it's not always level when you pick it up. (It was on sale when I bought it.)

For a more crafty person, I'd just get some paracord and use one of the guides in this subreddit to create your own handle.

So normally there is a clothfilter bag on top of a shopvac like this but it lets a lot of fine dust trough. A filter cartridge cost about as much as the vac itself. So I put some car filters in a woodbox, these are as good as the cartridge. Hope that helps

For the soldering iron any cheap adjustable iron will do as long as you're not planning lots of projects, I have this and it works fine for soldering switches. For the solder I personally use leaded 0.7mm, but anything up to around 1mm will work fine; I'd still recommend using leaded solder though. The desoldering pump you're getting is fine as long as you're not planning on doing a lot of joints as it's not the best quality. A mat would be useful as well as a fan to get rid of some of the fumes. As for screws I assume the case will come with them, if not you'll need 6 x M2 4mm screws in order to mount the PCB.

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-RP63139-Plumbers-Box-Parts/dp/B003MACB7A

Handy little kit for Delta stuff. Doesn't save you any money but as long as nothing's empty you can fix all of the generic Delta stuff. Just nice to help keep the stuff organized and stocked. I totally agree that it's hardly worth it considering how cheap Delta faucets are new, but I don't stock or recommend any Delta stuff so having some repair parts is my cheap alternative to putting a new American Standard or Moen in.

I road my XR on the beach back when I first got it without any issues. Personally, I would suggest coving your charge port and the power button prior to riding on the beach. The sand gets clogged in the charge port as well as getting inside the button causing it to get stuck. There are two covers that are made for other things but fit perfectly for these onewheel vulnerabilities.

UPDATE:
Cover for charge port:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Z41BT9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_d7-7BbKSZX2Q6

Cover for power switch:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISNX7LO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_V9-7Bb42GR9ZJ

If I had to secure the handles better, I'd pick up some 1/8" roll pins like these and secure the handles with them. My local Lowes carries them.

It pretty much is a large immersion blender. I worked at a pizza place in my home town where we had a power drill with a special attachment for mixing sauces. Link for visual. It literally is just a metal rod that you can attach to a drill that has some stuff at the bottom that can mix liquids in large food grade buckets. We made sauce 5 gallons at a time so stirring all the seasonings, tomatoes, paste, and water together would have taken a long time without it. Also super useful for mixing up 5 gallon batches of ranch.

Make sure you have the right tools/accessories to go with your table saw.

• Proper power switch - It should be very easy to stop your table saw and only able to be started if intended. Here is an example.
  
  
• Properly aligned fence - Prevents the wood from pinching between the blade and the fence decreasing risk of kickback. Absolutely necessary for ripping wood.
  
  
• Riving knife - Prevents the wood from pinching between the blade and the fence significantly decreasing risk of kickback.
  
  
• Blade guard - Prevents hands/body parts from coming down onto the blade reducing risk of hands getting caught in the blade.
  
  
• Push Stick - Prevents your hand from getting close to the blade. Used to push the wood when the spot your hand is touching would otherwise be close to the blade.
  
  
• Crosscut sled - Allows you to safely cross cut wood. This keeps the wood perpendicular to the blade, makes it easy to line up
  
  
• Proper PPE -Wear safety glasses and a dust mask and no loose sleeves, no gloves, no scarves, no ties, no long hair that is down - You don't want to anything that can get caught around the blade.
  
  
• No warped wood - If the wood is going to pinch or move as it is cut, then it isn't safe to cut. There are solutions to this such as jointing and planing the wood, using crosscut or ripping sleds, cutting the wood a circular saw instead, etc...
  
  
• Always be aware of your body position relative to the blade and your surroundings. Don't get our hands too close to the blade. Don't put yourself in a position where you'd get caught in the blade if you slipped or the board breaks, etc... Don't let your floor get covered in sawdust that can make you slip.
  
  So that looks like a lot right? Well the good thing is the majority of the features are included with almost all table saws. I bought one of the nicer ones from Lowes and it includes all of the hardware listed above other than the crosscut sled. First project I did was build a crosscut sled. Then the ppe, flattening the wood and body position/cleaning the shop are my responsibility.
  
  Almost all of this occurs before you make the cut. By the time you get to actually cutting, you just make sure to use your tools and your head.

I was originally planning on gluing and finish nailing the top to the rails but once I had it resting and I passed some wood through I ended up just leaving it.

It is quite heavy with the router mounted to it and there isn't any side to side play against the wing or fence system so it doesn't really have anywhere to go especially with the fence in place.

When I install the bosch I will probably do pocket screws or something from underneath as an extra precaution.

I do want to get a safety switch (http://www.amazon.com/Rockler-Safety-Power-Tool-Switch/dp/B001DT13B2) to mount over there instead of reaching down to hit the switch on the router.

You can buy those plugs in bulk on the cheap when getting them thru camera-accessory vendors on Amazon or w/e you prefer.

uxcell 5 Pcs Clear White Silicone Waterproof Rocker Switch Protect Cover Round Caps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISNX7LO
NEUTRIK NDM DUMMY PLUG FOR MALE XLR CHASSIS CON. (10 pieces) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LVENU4C

OWs are supposed to hold up really well from non-submersion, but that comes with some big gotchas.

1. Your OW may not be water-tight where it’s expected to be water-tight. Maybe someone messed up in the factory, or a part was defective.
   
2. Salt-water is a bad idea. Water + corrosion will do you no favors.
   
3. Some people slip & eat it bad on their stock tires. I hear about wet leaves all the time here. I guess I got lucky or something because I never slid out in anything while riding through the rain. Apparently treaded tires eliminate this from happening, but I’m talking all 2nd-hand here.
   
4. Make sure your charge port is completely dry and free of debris before plugging your OW in to charge
   
   I rode mine all winter thru the rain and I know quite a few people use their OW in the snow. Still I’d recommend you at least look into the Badger Kit if not buy it & apply it if you want some peace of mind.
   
   ps: the badger kit/waterproofing in-general is what people are referring to when they say they’ve “badgered” their OW. It’s not some obscure slang for messing it up.

here is a pretty good value

$40 isn't half bad IMO.

Non-mobile: here is a pretty good value

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

IMHO, these two things should be included with every new OW. This will better protect the few parts of this board that are still vulnerable to rain. Even with these on, I'm not sure if I have the guts to take my OW out in the rain. I guess I will do it while the warranty is still in effect and save it for dry weather after the year is up.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ISNX7LO

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072Z41BT9

Just a few thoughts, having done a bunch of 80% lowers (both -15 and -10) myself:

• On the issue of 30 router passes vs 10, that notch spacing issue is a holdover from the -15 version of the EZ jig, and they sell the -15 blanks in both billet and forged versions. The forged version of the lower blank REQUIRES about 30 passes of the router because the metal is that much tougher.
  
• The issue with the bit being pulled down only comes up if your router is... not a good router, at least for this application. I got a high-quality Makita router, and I've never had this problem.
  
• If you KNOW that you have a good router, and the bit-pulling problem occurs in conjunction with jumping more than once or so per pass, you are likely taking off too much at once and/or moving the router too fast. Reduce the depth of your passes and take a bit more time with each one.
  
• I'm not a professional machinist, but after I got some experience, I was able to do billet lowers in about two hours, and forged ones in a bit more than three.
  
  Having gained experience in the process of finishing them, 80% lowers, both the concept and the company, are definitely my preferred way of obtaining AR-type rifles, especially here in the DPRK.
  
  Democratic People's Republic of Kalifornia.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCB4ZTN/ref=asc_df_B01NCB4ZTN5170212/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B01NCB4ZTN&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167133658256&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8368876374343976431&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033326&hvtargid=pla-315351608098



Been eyeing this one at my parts supplier. Nice and deep, molded bottom, good sized pockets.

Essentially, this is very similar to what I have, and it works great.

https://www.amazon.ca/1000W-Voltage-Induction-Heating-Module/dp/B01HI5ZVUI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1537908199&sr=8-2&keywords=1000W+induction+coil

I have been running it with this

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075K1SQ44/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As one of the commenters below stated, I am going to try the flyback diode in series with this possibly along with a small fuse, even if it blows every time I would rather it not take the power supply with it.

In Canada, #3 for me is this. I thought you were making a hilarious joke

I cannot vouch for the quality but I would look for something like this.

Unfortunately I think a palm router would be too big and a kress spindle is too expensive. For PCB isolation milling and light duty cutting 300W (or 150W at 24v) should be plenty. With a 24V power supply you should be able to get around 5000-6000 rpm. With an ER-11 collet holder you can go up to 7mm shank tools.

Good luck

https://www.amazon.com/Rockler-Safety-Power-Tool-Switch/dp/B001DT13B2 I would go with something like that. if your work binds or something, you don't want to take a hand off it to shut off the saw. That switch lets you hit the off button with your knee instead. Just wire the female lead off that into a single gang box for 2 outlets.

My only concern is that you'd have to remember your saw is still switched on when that is off, and that could be dangerous, too.

Well this is the one that I purchased. It arrives today, so I'll let you know if it works or not.

http://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-LR110-3-110-Volt-Collector/dp/B00004S9AI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1462218271&sr=8-3&keywords=20+amp+remote

The box is a Long Ranger Dust Collector Switch. The woodshop I used to belong to had one so I knew where to look. It looks like it was designed in the 70's (complete with 9 volt battery remote), but it works.

That looks exactly the same as this one I bought off amazon and it's £11 cheaper. I don't have a problem with it but it's the only soldering iron I've ever owned so I can't really compare it.

Maybe this one?

https://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-LR110-3-110-Volt-Collector/dp/B00004S9AI/

i use these, though i haven't used anything to adhere it - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ISNX7LO/

I use this one, don't know why is doesn't say duratool though.

48w Solder Station Adjustable Soldering Iron Kit https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01186R3AE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ncmRybJ50X0VR

You'll burn that out. It's rated for 15A, the HF 2HP DC is 20A. The thing you linked is meant for shopvacs. Now this can handle 20A load.
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/33651

Anything with a temperature control should be decent enough for doing through-hole soldering work. I use this.

Electronics snobs will look down on it but I'm not about to spend hundreds on a professional grade one!

Nice photo. I see you already have the fender and a handle, so ?I would say your next stage of upgrading would be some dummy xlr plugs, and some covers for the power button for some waterproofing. You are right on the dont push yourself part though, thats how most people get hurt. I forced myself to do the first 50 miles in sequoia, and now I am at mile 300 with cruze. Heres the links to those plugs and covers.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072Z41BT9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ISNX7LO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1