Reddit mentions: The best power tool lubricants

Heres how I detail both of my DR650s. As some of you might know I'm 100% rinseless. I don't think theres a good way to clean a chain with out water so I have always done a 2BM wash on my motorcycles. Now for motorcycle customers I don't clean their chain that is on them. That is a primary maintenance item that I will not do. The risk is far greater then the reward. Hope you enjoy the video! Edit: Side note took me about an hour for one of the bikes so about 2 hours for both.


List of everything I used:

• Lusso Auto Bathe: Not much suds but pretty good lubricity. I wouldn't use it again. I have filtered water so the water it self feels slippery.
  
  
• Meguiars Wheel\Tire Cleaner: Used for chain/wheels/tires. Really great cheap cleaner for wheels and tires.
  
  
• EZ Detail Brush: The blue brush in the video isn't sold anymore but this is still good.
  
  
• Boar's Hair Detailing Brush: Pretty good brush. Its a hit or miss on quailty. 1 of 3 that I have just keeps dropping fibers.
  
  
• Chenille Wash Mitt: Standard wash mitt works great.
  
  
• Ultima Waterless Wash Plus Concentrate: Amazing waterless wash. Great for drying as well.
  
  
• Double Mist Trigger Sprayer: Nothing special. Fun to play with.
  
  
• CarPro HydrO2: Works great 3 to 4 months of protection.
  
  
• Ryobi 40-Volt Blower: Great for yard work not so much blowing water. Get a corded blower mine was in the truck didn't feel like getting it out.
  
  
• Maxima Chain Wax: Works great but I would recommend DuPont Teflon Chain Wax Last longer. Just using up the last of the Maxima Chain Wax.
  
  
• Grunge Brush: Cleans the chain really well. Cleans 3 sides at a time means less work.
  
  Think thats everything. Enjoy!!

As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...

Hand Tools

1. You say you have screwdrivers, but ifs worthwhile to have a full complement of them. You might consider getting a hand tool set like this one. Also, diagonals. Can't stress that enough. Eventually, you might upgrade a lot of these, but it'll get you started.
   
   
2. Ratcheting wrenches, along these lines. Conventional wrenches are functional, but these are much more so.
   
   
3. Ratcheting hex key set. In fact, this one looks good. If you have any Ikea furniture in your future, these will be worth their weight in guld.
   
   
4. Maybe a vise. That particular vice is mid-priced, but you can find well-reviewed vises at just about any price point.
   
   
5. A good range of sand paper grits: 80, 100, 120, 150, 180. You might also pick up a sanding sponge.
   
   Power Tools
   
   
6. A Dremel
   
   
7. Maybe an electric circular saw or a jigsaw. I really don't know which I'd prioritize, but you should probably have at least one of them.
   
   
8. If there's money left over in your budget, I'd suggest a random orbit sander.
   
   
9. A drill press
   
   Also, there are fluids to consider
   
   
10. Simple Green
    
    
11. Penetrating oil
    
    
12. Wood Glue
    
    
13. Mineral Spirits
    
    
14. Linseed Oil
    
    Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.

If it was me, I would put the bike horizontal (but make sure this is ok fluid wise, and with the manufactuerr's instruction manual), and I would use PB blaster on it for a week. And I do mean a week, and the PB Blaster brand only. I know that some may say a week is a bit long, but I have found that an extended period of time helps, as the metal expands/cools a number of days helping to draw the catalyst in.

Then I would get a dremel with this cut off wheel and use it to "notch" the head of the screw as deep as I could without hurting the surrounding metal. Then I would go to the store and find a flat head bit that will fit an impact driver, and it needs to be "impact quality" and "hardened". The impact driver needs to have a high torque..

Then, make sure that whatever bit you have fits securely in the notch you have created, use the impact wrench to break it loose, perhaps far enough that you can get the vise grips on it and finish bringing the bolt out. If you have not used an impact driver before, you should get some wood screws and a block of wood and practice so you are comfortable with it and know what to expect.

Then clean and chase the threads with the appropriate tap. And use an anti seize compound when re-installing the bolts.

I prefer this to drilling out and retapping the screw because he can get an OEM replacement bolt that will fit perfectly and not worry about the fit of a different bolt. Also, this method is actually less laborious (in my opinion) and he can always drill out and re-tap the screw if this does not work (but chances are good that it will).

I think the welding suggestion would work also, but OP may not have a welder. And if the OP wanted, he could use a regular heat gun on it a number of times (with the PB blaster) to expand and help crack the corrosion.

I don't know if links are allowed here but Mountain Electronics has a replacement lens here and it's glass

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=929&search=emisar+d4

I don't work for them but I just got my d4 from them and the experience was great.

I clean my threads with microfiber cloths with some warm water then I use this as a lubricant.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BOMKGPW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't generally use detergents or anything more than warm water on anything. Rubbing alcohol seems like a safe bet for some things but I wouldn't let it touch your o-rings.

Best of luck.

Hey! I started much where you are and had no real way of learning from someone else on what to buy, what to look for, etc. etc. I've got a few tips for you!

​

When I first started wrenching, I thought I needed air tools. Every mechanic's shop has airtools. Cars are big and mechanical, and it made sense that I'd need something beefy to pull them apart. TOTALLY FALSE. I'll let you know that 90% of my tools are handtools from harbor freight and I probably spent no more than $200 on the collection. Here's a rundown of my most used/invaluable tools:

• 3/8" drive socket wrench from harbor freight. Composite handle, great mechanism, very comfortable, very light. I have a nice set of kobalt socket wrenches. They don't shine a light on this bad boy in my experience. I have and use 2 pretty regularly. You might be able to get away with just an adjustable wrench.
  
• Impact sockets. Little bit beefier than regular sockets, but I very rarely come across an instance when these are not the answer.
  
• Color coded deep sockets. When the impacts aren't the answer, these are. I've only got a set of metric, and haven't needed to buy the SAE set yet. I won't buy them until I need them. The color coding seems trivial, but is HUGE when you're sick and tired of being under the car, just want to finish since the sun went down and your tired. Going for the blue socket is much easier than sliding around in relative dark trying every socket to see if it's right. That fucking sucks.
  
• Universal joints. Not 100% necessary, so don't buy them until you need them, but holy hell do they make life easier.
  
• Extensions. Access is everything when it comes to wrenching. These ones wobble, you might not like that. Try them in the store. Poking 18" of extension up into a crevice is all fun and games until your socket starts flopping around and you can't control it. Double entendre. The alternative are non-wobbling extensions. I have the non-wobbly ones. They've worked totally fine and I don't find that I need the wobble ones.
  
• Adapters to make all your junk work together.
  
• Breaker bar. When your arms fail you, this won't. Don't go for the cheapest. I did and snapped off the end. Totally fucked myself in my work parking lot.
  
• Torque wrench. Almost the most expensive tool in my arsenal. Torque specs are very important. This wrench is cheap as fuck, and people say it's a comparable buy to the snap on wrench. I love mine to death.
  
• Adjustable wrench Like having an entire socket wrench set in one single tool. More elbow grease, but very convenient.
  
• Body panel pry bars. You will need these for general "gentle" prying on body panel snaps. Where a screwdriver would mess up the paint, these are surprisingly effective.
  
• My crown jewel: The impact driver. This is my singularly most used tool. Get this with a set of bits, and you'll be unstoppable. Of course it's not necessary, but it makes 2 minutes of wrenching a 2 second affair. Add it up and it saves a lot of time. These and These are what make my impact driver the best tool in my arsenal.
  
• JACK STANDS. Cars are heavy, make sure it's safely supported and you'll be confident every time you go under your car.
  
• Jack to actually get your car up.
  
• Plywood squares to put under your jack stands, and jack. Jackstands have small feet that sink in grass and asphalt. Plywood stops them from sinking
  
• PB Blaster, or penetrating oil. This stuff will pay for itself the first time you use it. Loosens the bullshittiest of bullshit.
  
• OBD2 reader This bad boy combined with a $10 app on your phone (DashCommand) will let you communicate with your car's computer. I can read codes, clear codes, see voltage, and boost and vacuum pressures. I can see RPMs, engine timing, rich/lean conditions and any other shit that I'll never need to see. Troubleshooting is 100 times easier with this. Most auto stores will read codes for free, but they won't clear them.
  
  And that's basically it. Lift your car on level ground. Use jackstands. "Getting to" the actual issue is always like 80% of the work. The work itself is pretty easy generally. Youtube and reddit ( r/mechanicadvice, r/cars, and r/justrolledintotheshop ) are invaluable resources. These people know their shit and they know yours too. PB Blaster is magic oil. If something goes wrong, get it on video for the experts to see and hear instead of describing a skrrt skrrt sound when you're turning left then right, you know? Get cheap tools to start with. When they break, you know that you use them enough to justify better ones. If I've told you not to skimp somewhere, it's because I've skimped there before and I don't want you sitting there defeated. Buy tools as you need them. Start basic, then expand. It's not called a collection because you bought them all at the same time from the same place.
  
  ​
  
  I got my start by changing my oil. Then my brakes. Then replacing this, then that, and now I'd feel comfortable working on a brand new vehicle. I'm no expert either. Just casual stuff. Building confidence is a big part of it. I wish you luck my man. If you ever need anything, let me know and if I don't have the answer, I'll find it for you.
  
  ​
  
  To clarify. The tools I listed above are 99% of what I use.

Seriously, replace them for your boat kit. There's a lot of overlap with rock climbing, and any safe climber will tell you that exhausted gear like this should be retired from your active kit because someone might inadvertently use it.

I know the situations where you'll need a 23kN carabiner on the river are vanishingly small, but you don't want to risk it. Corrosion is insidious, too, and you might not be able to tell how much strength has been lost by visual inspection. If you've got a biner on the river or crag, it should be able to be used for all original purposes (even if it's marked) so that you don't accidentally use a bad biner in a critical situation.

If you're going for non-survival use, PB Blaster is insanely useful, as any mechanic working on cars in cold-weather climates can tell you.

Conceivably, if you're a dab hand with a blowtorch, heat and vicegrips could get the job done, but you really, really, really can't use them for anything safety related if you do that.

Read up on freeing stuck bolts on cars; I think it's your best bet. Don't use those biners in your gearbag, though.

I guess it would be the Penetrating Catalyst. Down in the corner of the front it will have "Part No. 16 PB" http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E. This stuff has worked wonders on my Clipper and it didn't take much. I was told and highly recommend that you should do this outside in a place where is plenty of ventilation. I carefully removed all the screws from the covers and replaced them in the chassis so I wouldn't get mixed up later (I tend to lose things). Following mrtopcons warning I wrapped the platen several times with aluminum foil as a mask. I placed a pair of old jeans on the floor of my garage to soak the oily runoff. I worked near the door. I sprayed and worked each type bar free, being careful to protect the platen. After I freed all the bars I let it sit 'til evening and carefully blew out any excess penetrant with air and then wiped off the rest. I let it air out for a few days on my patio table in the morning and back into the garage at night (also to double check the bars). I never had to respray it after the first day. After about 4 days of airing out I brought it inside, reassembled it and now I love my "new" Smith-Corona! This product is fantastic. I just got a '40 Royal KMM last week whose bars were completely immobilized by years of rust (dog hair and God knows what else). I vacuumed it out http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BSJCLY/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and took it outside to the garage. Within 15 minutes of spraying and patiently working each key (respraying when necessary) I got all the type bars COMPLETELY freed up. I was amazed. Good luck and let me know how it goes!

Literally doesn't matter. Lubing an O or X ring chain (which is what 99.999% of bikes have today) is of dubious value. It's very doubtful to me that the lube even gets into the O rings, which is the major contact point while riding. The only real reasons to lube are to help prevent rust and keep the chain clean. I've seen my less maintenance-inclined friends run chains for 10k miles with maybe 1 or 2 lubes along the way, and certainly not a cleaning. There might be some level of increased wear and tear, but it's not going to matter.

Here's the best chain lube. The only one I've ever used that didn't fling shit all over when I was riding, and whatever extra fluid spills onto the swingarm is super easy to clean up, not that gunky shit you have to scrub off with oil or crappy lubes.

Clean the tarnish off, then put something like Boeshield on it. Just slather it in the stuff, it dries to a sort of waxy coating. It's also amazing at keeping things from rusting, so even if it fails with the tarnish it's still really useful. I've used it to great success on galvanized rings to slow down the oxidizing of the zinc. It may help slow the tarnish a lot. The slouch in the middle might be more from the different weight of the rings, than a slight size difference.

Also, you bastard beatting me to it. I'll just go ahead and make an aluminum scale haubergeon for now. Cause if I say I'm going to make a bee next you'll probably beat me to that as well. :P

I've actually just got my first table saw this week as well. After doing a lot of research before putting it all together, here's what I've found:

Watch this video and there are several other good videos on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxRSarTJLMU

As far as the cast iron top, remove any oil with WD-40 or mineral spirits, then protect with Boeshield and a paste wax. Johnson seems to be the common choice, but any should do as long as it's silicone free.
Read this: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/105746 (Boeshield mentioned in replies 12 and 13)
Boeshield: https://www.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

You could also use a spray on dry lubricant like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220-Aerosol-Top-Cote/dp/B0000223UD

As far as waxing the blade, this link helped me realize I wasn't cleaning my blades on other saws and that would help a lot as well. It goes off topic but the first response mentions using a spray on "Topcote" like what I linked to just above on the blades after cleaning.
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/41371

For transparency sake: I haven't set it up yet. I'm picking up most of what I linked above today on my way home and I'll be doing all that stuff tonight.

A more expensive lock might be cheaper for you, at this point.

Also, locks need maintenance too. Doubly so where you live. Let me just copy and paste Kryptonite's directions here:

>We recommend you clean & lubricate your lock(s) using these guidelines: If you are in an area that tends to have harsh climate changes with snow, rain or you're near the ocean, we recommend a monthly clean & lube. Otherwise, perform this maintenance on a bi-monthly basis. The areas of the lock you should focus on maintaining include the cylinder, deadbolts, u-shackle ends, or the lock-pin attached to cables.

>Step #1- Clean the above listed parts with a rag first (Note: If extra grime or corrosion is present, clean first with a degreaser spray or a WD40 type product. WD40 is not a lube, it is for cleaning.)

>Step #2- The lube type we recommend for all our locks is a "wax base" lubricant with added TEFLON. WAX helps as a carrier for the lubricant to coat and cling to the internal metal parts while TEFLON is a good slippery additive that gets in between the moving parts and reduces friction. Add a few drops on the above listed parts, then insert the keys. Turn the keys 5-10 times. This will keep the lock working great. Examples of this lubricant can be found in many local Bicycle or PowerSports shops, and Hardware stores.

https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y

That's one such lubricant, if you're wondering.

What tools do you have?

For longevity target rust. Sand, grind, scrape it down and paint it with hightemp paint. You can replace the grates if you want just search cooking/grill grates on Amazon and you'll probably find something that fits. Personally I'd replace the handles. I hate a grill that feels like it wants to crush my hand when I'm taking a peek or sticking in a temperature probe.

IF I were cleaning it up I'd take this to it, inside and out, and repaint the whole thing. If you don't have an angle grinder a Drill version works (preferably with a cord, batteries don't last that long). I'd remove/replace all wood (handles particularly), hardware, screws, bolts, anything that comes off. Maybe something with the hinges, probably some PB Blaster to break up that rust then some WD40 to coat/lubricate whats left.

To use it, clean off the grates and smoke something, it's usable as is. Get it nice and hot then bring the temperature down and let it go. You may find that it is to big/small for you. People underestimate the charcoal and wood required to keep a smoker this big going. I personally couldn't use one this big, smoking 3 times what you eat sounds good til you throw away good brisket or ribs a week later. If you want to smoke as much as possible get the smoker that makes it easy, not the one that feeds your extended family once a year. For free, just use it and see before you invest time/money.

Pick up some chain lube, a can of plexus, and a microfiber towel. These are really simple things that are easy to overlook, but make a difference.

It's pretty easy to roll the bike a couple feet and spray the chain in sections every few hundred miles even without a stand.

I'm always surprised at how much less fatiguing a long ride is with a clean visor. Just less things for your brain to process if there aren't as many bugs in your vision.

http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y

http://www.amazon.com/Plexus-Plastic-Cleaner-Protectant-13-Ounce/dp/B00092CKN4/

So stuff like this? Also, how do you apply grease/lubricant to the bearings? The rails/worm gear I’m assuming it’s directly applied, then the axis is moved up/down/left/right to apply throughout.


Zoom-SPOUT Sewing Machine Oil Oiler ~ 4FL. OZ.(118ml)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BYCKTW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6cPJBb3ZHQ8QH

3-IN-ONE Multi-Purpose Oil, 3 OZ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JN5PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HcPJBbYNBTFVR

Super Lube 51010 Oil Super Lube
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DdPJBbVT5E89G

Super Lube 21010 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), Blistered, ½ oz Tube
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXKZQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-dPJBbN0D6KVT

There are people that swear by graphite but there is a general consensus that graphite is messy. I think that most people will also agree that WD40 can collect dust in the air and make things sticky.

I love and use Houdini Lock Lube. It smells great and a little goes a long way. Another option that some guys love is Tri-Flow. The last common option is a TPFE (?) product. This is a Teflon powder suspended in an alcohol solution. You spray it, the alcohol evaporates and the Teflon stick to whatever it was sprayed on. I have heard that it might get a bit messy too but at least this kind isn't black.

Actually this is wrong. Aluminum is highly corrosive, which is actually a good thing, well mostly. It quickly oxidizes forming a thin "skin" that protects the underlying material from most weather and chemicals.

In the aviation world corrosion is a big concern and we generally deal with it through use of zinc-chromate primers or sometimes plating which has various approaches. You can even use wax if you really want to, think BoeSheild T-9 or ACF-50.

As for why it is good for bicycles. Probably the biggest two factors are low cost and the ease with which it can be extruded, milled and machined into usable shapes for bicycles. All things being equal if I was building a bicycle out of a metal it would be Titanium hands down. If I was building to a price point however, Aluminum wins.

Aha "Stoddard Solvent" on the prop, then paint ... also known as Marvel Mystery Oil AKA Naptha ...

To summarize the the manual: Dip the plane in paint thinner, then wash with dish soap.

White spirit or mineral spirits, also known as mineral turpentine, turpentine substitute, petroleum spirits, solvent naphtha (petroleum), varsol, Stoddard solvent, or, generically, "paint thinner", is a petroleum-derived clear liquid used as a common organic solvent in painting and decorating.

WD-40 w/ silicone works nice on props to clean and make them pretty.

https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Resistant-Silicone-Lubricant/dp/B0083V8K0U/

Simple Green is your friend.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017D1GG6?ref_=wms_ohs_product&redirect=true&psc=1&pldnSite=1

This ^ will last you a long time. I clean my discs with it to remove the squeak also.

This http://www.amazon.com/Park-CM-5-2-Cyclone-Chain-Scrubber/dp/B007HDNOT2/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1398709921&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=park+tool+chain+cleaner plus simple green = a super chain cleaning.




Also a little car paint detailer keeps it shiny shiny.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQXAE?ref_=sr_1_cc_2&s=aps&qid=1398709624&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=meguires%20detailer&pldnSite=1

Just spray it into a rag and not directly onto the frame to prevent over spray on the discs/pads.

As others have mentioned, a good lube (Boeshield T9 for example) should be matched to your riding conditions and applied.

http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1398709998&sr=1-1&keywords=boeshield+t-9

yes that 3in1 will do fine, but thicker will be more responsive and last longer.

You can melt vaseline into a bearing with a lighter - hold the bearing on the end of a pencil or something you don't care about burning a bit. Make sure you only do this if the bearing is all metal.

"Brain Lube" is the best, imo - this is the same stuff https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51010-Oil/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499211271&sr=1-3&keywords=super+lube+ptfe

Mineral spirits cuts the oil - distributes it more evenly and thinly - so adding it to your lube makes it less responsive.

I have not. But it's cheap, so that's good. If you've got Amazon prime, you could also go with this stuff. That'll fix you up right.

I wouldn't worry about getting a whole new board. Just do the best you can to clean out that Finish Line stuff (maybe unplug and use an old toothbrush wetted lightly with isopropyl alcohol), then give it a healthy dosage if dielectric grease. It'll help a lot.

I modified mine by taking out the magnet the first day I got it (and yes it does void the warranty).

I ordered this lube to modify it as well as some other peripherals, but it isn't that expensive (considering the cost of the trackball).

I definitely would recommend the modification and lubrication of the device, it made the trackball feel like it costs, rather than feel like a $50 toy.

Edit: I didn't just use the dri film above as lubricant. I also used some permatex grease I had lying around to make it seem like a heavier scroll wheel, rather than a light plastic one.

For rust prevention - I use Boeshield T-9 on all my iron tops (actually, on anything that rusts) - it is a good deal easier to put on, lasts longer than wax and is very effective.

I do use paste wax over the top of the T-9 to make it more slippery.

Could have been. The factory finish beneath all the rust was quite rough. I'm sure Powermatic used a better manufacturing process from start to finish with the table surface, but you're talking about a multi-thousand dollar tool.


Yeah, my craftsman flash rusted just minutes after I cleaned the heavy rust off and polished it. The Ridgid has done a lot better. When I got it home from it's previous owner, it had a few rust circles from beverages or whatever. I gave it a once over with some 400 grit and it hasn't rusted without protectant. Although, I should check on it today since the humidity is 95%! I decided instead of paste wax like I did on the craftsman, I ordered this stuff for the Ridgid: http://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220-Aerosol-Top-Cote/dp/B0000223UD

Once you remove the rust you should try TopCote its a sealant, lubricant and its finish safe. Having a safe lubricant to put on the tablesaw top is frigging awesome. I couldn't believe how much easier it made running a sheet of plywood through or doing cross cut work.

The hood latches tend to seize up over time, especially if you don't lubricate them occasionally. Had the same problem on my Mk5 Jetta. If it's seized and not a broken cable, you can generally fix it pretty easily.

You need three things: a small screwdriver, a can of lightweight break-free lube like Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster penetrating oil, and a can of spray lithium lube.

Pop the safety latch and prop the hood. Locate the hood latch assembly. Using the precision tube on the spray lube, saturate the inside of the latch and latch plate with the penetrating oil (try to keep overspray from rubber parts). Let sit for 30 seconds or so, and then press on the open side of the latch with the screwdriver until the latch plate releases and locks. Pull the hood release in the cabin to reset. Repeat several times until the latch snaps closed freely when you press on it with the screwdriver. Respray with penetrator if necessary.

Use a shop towel to mop up as much penetrating oil as you can and spray the entire inside of the latch assembly with as much spray lithium as it will hold. Work the mechanism a few more times to get it into the pivot and latch plate as much as possible. Re-saturate with lithium grease and button up.

Every time you change your oil, you should relubricate the hood latch with spray lithium to keep this from happening.

EDIT: Linkies.

Yeah that's easy. PB Blaster...by far the best stuff I've ever used at removing bolts or other severly rusted/stuck things(far far better than WD-40)

Just read these reviews...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B000I2079E/ref=mw_dp_cr

If corded electric, make sure it’s unplugged, or remove the battery if it has one.

If you’re having trouble with the bolt, hit it with a bit of PB Blaster (also available at Walmart and auto parts stores) and let it sit for a bit. That’s a far better penetrating oil than WD-40.

If it’s still stuck, have a friend hold the blade while you crank on it with a wrench that has a longer handle, or put a pipe over the wrench you’re using (a “cheater bar”).

If that still fails, it’s time to buy an impact wrench/driver and a set of impact sockets. Never pass up an opportunity to buy tools! If you’ve already got cordless power tools from another brand, you can likely find an impact wrench that takes the batteries you’ve got. I just happen to be a Bosch fan.

Also, make sure you’re using the right size wrench. You don’t want to round off that bolt.

Someone mentioned jamming wood under the blade to hold it still while you’re wrenching on it. That seems like a fine idea.

Basement machine shop in New England here. I have yet to find an AMAZING corrosion resistant spray... LPS3 works well but leaves a film which isn't ideal if you're using things semi-often because you have to really wipe down all your precision surfaces and tapers. CRC SP-400 has been my go-to for a while. A can lasts a while and works for larger stuff. Just leave a wet coat on there.
For my small hand tools, especially micrometers, etc. I use Starrett tool and instrument oil. It's expensive but a small bottle goes a long way.
The biggest difference is putting things away. I keep all my precision stuff and hand tools in a toolbox with a few dessicants and there isn't a spot on any of it.

My first job as a mechanic was working on mostly pre-'86 cars and trucks. My boss handed me a can of this awesome stuff called PB Blaster and since then, I always give rusty bolts a good soaking in it before making attempt. I have never broken a bolt off since and all I work on are '60's and '70s Mopars and frequent junkyards. I hope this helps

Some or all of these would be appreciated I bet!

S100 Total Cycle Cleaner - The fastest, easiest method to keep your bike clean

Maxima Clean-Up Chain Cleaner - This gets the bike's chain clean with little if any scrubbing needed

DuPont Teflon Chain-Saver - This keeps dirt out of the chain and keeps the links well lubricated

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-11016-Aerosols-Dri-Film/dp/B000RFRM4U

I love Super Lube products. Cheap and effective stuff. Their grease is the best NLGI 2 multipurpose grease you can get for the money.

DuPont also makes a semi-dry lube that's a little hard to find but my absolute favorite for things like hinges and garage door rails because it doesn't attract much dust but gets way into the crevices of things basically instantly. http://www.performancelubricantsusa.com/files/DuPont%20Product%20Availability%20Feb%202016.pdf It's their "multi-use" lubricant. The sticktivity isn't necessary for indoor stuff, but for outdoor hinges and garage doors and such it can't be beat since it also features some moderate rust protection.

hey friends! would either of these be good for switch lube? going for hako clears/tealios if that matters, thanks!

edit: canadian, so id have to pay an arm and a leg for krytox/tribosys

edit2: or if you have other suggestions, im open to them!

FlexSeal yes! :)

I remove the plastic cases from my ESC and receiver and go to town with 4-6 coats of FlexSeal! :)

My Axial Wraith has been running right up the middle of streams for 2+ years now. Been 100% submerged for minutes at a time. Never glitched even a little bit.

I wouldn't use FlexSeal on joints of any type though. It will rip over time from repetitive back and forth motion.

Also, the "White Lightning" stuff you're talking about from cycling sounds like what RC calls "dry lubricant". I've seen RC guys use this from 3M.

The other option is Marine Grease. It's made for boating and lot's of offroad crawlers use it. Some guys pack their entire transmission, differential and axle with it.

If you don't already have one and do it, consider investing in a 1000 grit diamond hone, like this popular Trend and some lapping fluid. You can re-hone those carbide tips 3-4 times before they're completely shot (unless they're chipped all around, then you're out of luck).

It's well worth the investment to get more life from the carbide tips, and the lapping fluid will last a long time (you only need one drop).

I wish I was aware of Dupont Chain Saver with Teflon when I started riding. It is pretty amazing stuff.

That stuff is ok, but it doesn't last long. I'd go with DuPont Teflon Chain Wax. https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y

It's available in a small aerosol to throw in a saddlebag on take on the road. I've been using it for about 35k miles on my streetbike and the chain still looks new.

I've been using it on my dirtbikes for over 10 years, and it is simply the best. My chain is cleaner and quieter than all my riding bros that like to use Maxima or Silkolene or any of that goopy messy stuff.

They should all be synthetic grease and therefore not cause problems with rubber/plastic parts.

I'd recommend getting some Super Lube multi purpose online, like here.

Soak it up really well with a penetrating lubricant. I'm fond of PB Blaster and Knock 'er Loose. Soak it well over several days. Then, gently heat the outer section with a torch, and twist.

Alternatively, you can use a jack to separate them. You'll need a way to attach to both sections, with a grip of some sort, then just use the jack to drive them apart.

https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant-14-Ounce/dp/B00D3G6FD4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465398683&sr=8-1&keywords=dupont+teflon+chain+lube

What year is your Streety? I'd highly recommend PitBull stands. VERY well made, but a bit pricey.

Also, head on over to triumphrat.net if you haven't already and register. Lots of excellent advice from knowledgeable folks.

I have some of this. I'll give it a try. I feel like I was hitting it pretty hard but I was definitely afraid of damaging something. I could definitely hit harder. Thanks for the response.

Ooh it's four dollars! Ordered. Super Lube 51010 Oil Super Lube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EdI0DbKX6MN0W

Hey I just got home from a trip and found this on the doorstep. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UQ5PGM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Super lightweight oil, seemed to help with the diamond stones. https://imgur.com/FwHOREG.jpg

Try a different lube, like PB blaster

Try to intentionally apply pressure in the "ON" direction. Sometimes it will break free enough while tightening to come loose.

Try hitting the crank arm while trying to loosen/tighten. A rubber mallet or deadblow would be best.

If the above still does not work only then would I start methods that may cause damage... like more force or heat.

WD-40 is great for some things, like moisture displacement and cleaning rust. It is not a penetrant, so it won't eat it's way into the corrosion (if there is much) on the threads.

PB Blaster is technically a penetrating catalyst, it's entire purpose is to penetrate into things and allow you to break them loose more easily. It actually pulls itself into the crevices and lubes things that WD-40 would never get to.

You need to use a screw extractor.

If you've lead a good clean life (and it looks like you haven't) it will come right out.

If you don't want to buy the tool or don't have the drill to use it with just go to your LBS. Any competent one should be able to do this for you for a rather small charge.

If you have reason to suspect the screw is in there real good start applying PB Blaster or other penetrating oil now. Do whoever will be removing it a favor and get penetrating early. WD-40 is not a good penetrating oil.

I was just reading a comparison in Fine Woodworking mag.

They found this to be the best overall for both tool steel and cast iron. (take it for what it's worth).

I've always used paste wax. They found it to be marginally effective. I've never had rust issues, then again, my shop isn't all that damp.

This stuff is your friend when it comes to rust. One can has lasted me awhile.

Spray that on the rusted area and let it sit for a day or two for best results. Get a wrench that fits on the bolt, and take a hammer to the end of the wrench. There are better and safer ways to break free a rusted bolt (impact hammer/wrench) but this is the cheap way.

I had this problem recently, turned out that a small rock had snuck into the threads and jammed in there.

The solution was to use a bunch of this shit while the bike was on its side. Hit the axle from the ends as hard as you dare with a non-metal thing like a mallet and keep reapplying blaster a few times over a couple hours. Once you run out of patience, get the best fitting wrench you can in there and cross your fingers while you yank on it.

I regularly use Bostik TopCote on most of my machines with cast iron tops. It protects well, and leaves a really slick yet dry surface.

http://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220-Aerosol-Top-Cote/dp/B0000223UD

If I find surface rust on one of my machines I use Top Saver and a piece of scotch-brite to remove the rust and condition the metal. Then I apply the TopCote for protection.

I'm getting my YMD96 kit delivered on Thursday. I want to clip and lube my stabilizers based on Kim's video.

I can find Dielectric Grease locally here in Toronto but I can't find any Finish Line Teflon Grease, or any other teflon grease for that matter.

Ordering 205g0 will take 6-10 days from Apex. Here are my other, immediate options:

• Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease (28g, $5.49)
  
  
• Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2) (3oz, $9.30)
  
  
• Super Lube 91003 Silicone High-Dielectric and Vacuum Grease (3oz, $14)
  
  
• Super Lube 92003 Silicone Lubricating Grease (3oz, $17.12)
  
  
• Super Lube 51010 Precision Oiler (7ml, $6.63)
  
  Would anyone of those be a replacement for 205g0 or teflon grease to lubricate the stabilizer housing?
  
  Any reason to go with Super Lube over Permatex to lube the metal bars?

https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E

This is your friend on vehicles with rust. There's a few variants of this, but this is on the the better more available ones, that isn't stupid expensive

Know what I don't keep in my car? Candles. Know what I do? PB Blaster. Instead of using pinterest inspired gimmicks I do what actual adults do. Buy PB Blaster (or any other version of penetrating oil) and use it like it is intended.

It is not expensive and works wonders on everything. If you aren't in a hurry you can get it for $3.64 on Amazon Prime Shipped.

If you need it today then hit up your local Autozone or Wal-Mart or whatever place you have around you that deals with automotive stuffs. They will have it. It's everywhere. Know what they don't have in that aisle? Candles.

A friend of mine in a lock smith. He says to use a product called "Houdini lock oil" and to never use graphite. I will attest that I've used graphite several times with wild success.

Oh, and in the future try PB Blaster instead when you're trying to free something that is seized up. It is far superior to WD-40 for that task.

I use Boeshield T-9 pretty frequently. It does a fine job. Of course it would be a bit time consuming to treat everything with t9 everyday. So I also keep scotch brite pad with my gear to knock off the rust that inevitably appears here and there.

Outside of the things others have mentioned (springs, tubing, couplers, SKR, BMG, etc.) - if you don't already have some good tools/spare parts you can use this time to invest in some.

• Some superlube for bearings/z-rod/etc
  
• Ferrules & crimp (great if you want to swap boards and have 'proper' cabling)
  
• A heavier duty 'get off the damn bed' thingy
  
• Reusable cable ties (save the ocean or some shit)
  
• Deburr tool
  
• M2/M3/M4 bolt set with T-nuts (great if you want to print some add-ons that attach to the extrusions)
  
• Different bed surfaces if you want to experiment
  
• Microfiber cloths for cleaning things
  
• Tooth brush and some orange cleaner for cleaning up that z-rod
  
• LED lightbar or some other form of lighting
  
• Extra hot end socks, nozzles, thermistors, heating elements (better to have one or two on hand then wait a while!)
  
• 14/12 awg silicone wire for mains connection (great with spades & ferrules!)
  
• Soldering iron, cabling, heatshrink (if you want to swap fans or do any other wire splicing activities)
  
• Ball bearing 4010 fans (or 4020, or whatever size you mod to - IMO go for 24v and avoid noctua/buck converter shenanigans)

> WD-40 is not a lubricant.

So many people don't understand this.

I've been using Boesheild T9 for years after a friend recommended it. He races bicycles and this is what many riders use on their chains. The waxy finish doesn't get flung off like wet lubricants and it doesn't attract dirt.

[PB Blaster] (http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E)

Really soak those screws good - leave it alone for about 15 minutes, come back and tap on it with a hammer on each screw - you can tap it pretty good, you'll be loosening that rust.

Spray it again and repeat this process like 3 or 4 more times. After a little over an hour of doing this, tap on it with a hammer, and then try to unscrew it. If it still doesn't turn, repeat previous process again. Eventually it will turn, it just takes patience.

You can get PB Blaster at any hardware store usually. Second choice would be Liquid Wrench, but PB Blaster has always worked better for me.

Well, it beats the basin wrench that many articles recommend. Apply some PB Blaster and go out for lunch before returning and applying torque. It really is amazing how suddenly the nut comes loose. Be careful not to spill it, as it's about as aggressive as paint remover.

http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E

Its a pretty good penetrating lubricant. you can find it pretty much anywhere. its what I have on my shelf at home, but your choice of penetrating lubricant would probably be just fine.

My recommendation: Super Lube. It's cheap, and it will work on anything. With vaseline, the petroleum will damage certain types of o-rings. Astro-glide is just not designed for this type of application either.

Lots of people also really love Nyogel. Here's a good CPF thread about greases and lubes.

I use this stuff on my handplanes and chisels your wrenches and other gear should be plated in something that inhibits rust I've never had any of my craftsman handtools develop rust. If you de-rust them you can then polish and put a clear coat on them to protect them a bit better

Boeshield T9 spray

We used this on everything in the cabinet shop. Spray on, let it dry a few minutes then wipe it off. Table saw tops, miter saw slides, blades, plane soles, chisels, everything. I had used white lithium before but it honestly don't hold a candle to T9. Kinda expensive but a can will listi you a couple years.

https://smile.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=boeshield+t9&qid=1562926091&s=gateway&sprefix=boes&sr=8-3

There are a few options. What to use depends on what the tool will be used for. Is it solely for collection or display? Or will I be using it daily once restored, or somewhere in between with use maybe 2-3 times a year.

Obviously WD-40 or any other oil will prevent rust, but may be annoying to have to wipe down and degrease the tool before handling. If it’s a tool you use daily or even weekly, I wouldn’t even worry about any kind of anti rust. Your handling it, skin oils, and wear and tear will more or less keep rust away.

The ultimate, IMO, for preventing rust on tools more susceptible to rust than others (vintage pyroxylin handle screwdrivers, I’m looking at you), or that you’ll be handling and don’t want to get all oily when using or have to degrease/wipe down before using is Top-Cote . I’ve been using it for years and it does a great job. It’s waxy rather than oily and prevents rust very well. It’s resistance to handling isn’t super high, but it’s not horrible. It’s nice because it won’t ruin wood, fabric, or other oil sensitive surfaces. This is also an awesome treatment for a metal machine surface, especially in climates with higher humidity or where lower coefficient of friction is desirable.

The trick I've found with this (and any rusty bolt really) is to use PBlaster and to tap the top of the bolt not just down, but to the sides as well. Sprays some blaster, tap a bunch, spray some more, tap a bunch more. Works consistently well.

I bought mine 10 years ago. The 12". Thyy had no carbide cutters at the time. A retrofit is available from Holbren.


The straight knives are good quality and and last a long time. The machine never failed me. Just keep the table clean and slick. I use this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220-Aerosol-Top-Cote/dp/B0000223UD

All of them do, unless they're aluminum. Best bet for prevention is a liberal application of this stuff on the inside of all the sheet metal, in late fall:

http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-T-9-Waterproof-Lubrication-aerosol/dp/B0000DD1DV

Will not hurt paint, but leaves a waxy, oily coating that protects and water beads right off it.

Make sure to lubricate those micrometers! I used to calibrate all our mics at my last job and Starret oil makes mics smoooooooooth.

May be worth it to get them calibrated as well. Or do it yourself, let me know and I can talk you thru it!

Grab yourself a can of PB Blaster, let it sit on the connection for 15 minutes, then try again with the channel locks.

If you're in an area subject to freezing, I would also consider replacing that hose bib with a frost free hose bib. Much better than forgetting to close the shutoff valve in the basement/crawl space.

Orange/citrus degreaser works great and is non-toxic. If you like a clean chain, use wax instead of oil-based lube. Wax works just as well, but needs to be reapplied more often. Some folks use actual paraffin wax. Most recently, I use a wax spray made by Dupont that also has Teflon in it - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3G6FD4

I use a stripped screw extractor kit. Very handy for under $20; I've had good luck with them.

Don't forget to spracy the screw with a penetrating oil first!

I've use this Nyogel container on nearly 50 flashlights, multiple times, and still have 60% of the container. It is AMAZING stuff.

These are absolutely incredible for removing rust. I always put a coat of Boeshield for rust protection on surfaces that might rust. It works like a charm. rub on some paste-wax and buff it off and you have a slippery tabletop that wont need any attention for months!

I use this based off some suggestions on this sub. So far I like it, no real issues. I used to use probably the same stuff you have now and I never liked the idea of putting something sticky on my chain. This teflon stuff should also help clean your chain.

You could use something like this http://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Resistant-Silicone-Lubricant/dp/B0083V8K0U maybe. Silicone based lubricants are safe for plastics and squeaking is always some friction between the plastic parts.

WD40 is good at removing rust, not so good at preventing it.
You would want something like this https://www.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

You drill into it with a reverse (left handed) drillbit, running your drill in reverse. That will probably bring the bolt out, but if it doesn't you use an Easy Out screw extractor to screw it out. Here is a kit with both left handed bits and extractors. You can get individual tools at a local hardware store. Soak it well wit PB Blaster first.

Thanks, I hadn't heard of Boeshield. Yes, it will be exposed to humidity and condensation. Is this the correct product?

http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

Nyogel 760g is the best https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BOMKGPW/ref=cm_sw_r_taa_APNnybBSP7ZVM
Review: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?204355-CPFReviews-com-Nyogel-779ZC-Nyogel-759G-Nyogel-760G-Lubricants

Great job! You might try PBlaster next time you have seized screws, it does a much better job than WD40. I used it this weekend cleaning up a Disston D-15 Victory saw. Same store had a few stanley planes but they were too far gone for saving.

https://imgur.com/a/ZCANI -- Saw ended up good enough for me to use. Might watch that Paul Sellers video on sharpening them, I think it's sharp but who knows.

Apologies for the odd angles - uploaded from Imgur mobile and didn't see where to flip the image. Guessing saw dates somewhere between 1928 and 1945. The victory symbol changed to a "V" around then by the eagle.

Buy some rust remover and use it after you have manually removed most of it with a wire brush. it will get into all the nooks and crannies and dissolve it away and leave you with a totally clean surface. if the rust is really deep it may have pitted the surface, but that shouldn't really be a problem for a jointer unless it's severe. Once the rust is gone you will know for sure what you need to flatten and true up.

The knives almost certainly need to be replaced and re-set, there are probably just a couple of set screws to adjust the cutter height on that model. Don't forget to finish everything with a coat of wax so it all glides smoothly.

Oh, and if any of the adjustment handles are rusted and stuck, B'laster is magical.

Pick up a can of Bosheild formulated by Boeing for corrosion prevention during airplane assembly it is the standard in multiple industries. If you are not riding for a few days a quick spray will keep the bike from starting corrosion. Otherwise a bi weekly clean up and oiling will keep the bikes in good shape, if you can rig a small cover you could just put the bikes under the humidity won't be as big of an issue.

I've never used that brand, but I've used other liquid wrench penetrators and it seems to be about as good as WD-40.


PB Blaster is what I use, and it works miracles.

http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-Chemical-PB-TS-Penetrating-Catalyst/dp/B0016GXONM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1324156262&sr=8-2

I have been using this for chain lube:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_213197-39963-D00110101_0__?productId=1059839

It is, frankly, amazing. It goes on like WD40. What I like about it is that it dries to a waxy like consistency so that it doesn't fling off all over the place and it isn't tacky and doesn't attract dirt like more liquid libricants.

I actually use it on a street motorcycle chain as well and have been very satisfied with that application as well.

EDIT: It looks like they changed the formulation of the multi-purpose lube. It is no longer a dry wax lube and is therefore not suitable for chain use anymore. :-(

They say that this is similar to the old formula, but I haven't tried it yet. I will soon since I am almost out of the old stuff. :-(

http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y

I've become a big fan of WD-40 Silicone Spray. I've been lightly applying it on the tops of all the screws after the post-bash RC shower, and it keeps the rust away.

Because it attracts dirt and dust and over time it will be like you sprayed a soda inside. It gunks up the lock horribly. Use Houdini, it works really well and it smells nice too. http://www.amazon.com/HOUD1-Houdini-Lock-Lube/dp/B00C5JFKKE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459130125&sr=8-1&keywords=houdini+spray

> superlube grease

Thanks! Would this one suffice? https://www.amazon.ca/Super-Lube-21010-Synthetic-Multi-Purpose/dp/B005R2NIIC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=superlube+grease&qid=1564667373&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I have cleaned and repaired many. First get the dust and dirt off. Then, if you find a center hub covered by a cap or thin plastic sticker, remove to expose the bearing. Then a drop or two of this stuff, and you have a good chance of resurrection. Praise grid.

Yeah, I didn't think so, re: WD-40.

Anti-seize will probably help on the threads, but I'm wondering if there's anything I can coat on wheel bolt that'll actually stay put when exposed to the road, and offer protection without interfering with the threads. I have some Boeshield T-9...my mechanic recommended it for keeping my coilover threads from getting gummed up, so I'm thinking this will work.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BXOGHY

I bought one or two from Radio Shack a few years ago. The pen applicator is pretty handy.

>https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220-Aerosol-Top-Cote/dp/B0000223UD

Thanks for the info! I'll get a can of that and try it out.

I’ve heard really good things about Lock Houdini, which is a lube specifically designed for use in locks.

Yes, you can. In fact, it's vital to the waterproofing. You want a thin layer of silicone grease on the O-ring and threads. Cheap stuff from the plumbing aisle of a hardware store is fine, but if you want to go all-out, people swear by Nyogel 760G.

Make sure you are using a screw driver where the head fits nicely into the screw. If you use one that doesn't fit well it will be much more likely to strip it.

Use pb blaster. WD40 is junk.

Another thing you can do is to put the screw driver into the screw and tap it with a hammer. The idea is to break loose rust or other stuff holding the screw in place.

These 2 things are from years of fixing cars. the other thing I do with cars is to apply heat. Usually with a propane torch. This expands the metal and breaks any rust holding it in place. but I have a feeling that it wouldn't work well with nintendo's plastic case. ha

Many dielectric greases are ptfe (Teflon) based. What you want is a thick grease, not a thin oil. (To get technical, you want something with nlgi grade 2)

I can recommend superlube brand's silicone dielectric grease.

Super Lube 51010 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Cn8OCb5WJ71QT

You’ll want to add a drop to the horizontal pivot point inside that angled round donut part.

Edit: red line is the imaginary axle. Apply lube to points marked by yellow arrows https://imgur.com/a/ZlmV6Uw

I found this sharpening kit is a necessity when using a mortising machine. HUGE difference even with a new chisel and bit. I also will lube the drill bit with a couple of drops of Boeshield to keep the screeching sound to a minimum.

At 21 seconds, middle of the frame just above the tire, see that part moving? Hit it with something like this. https://www.amazon.com/3M-08897-Silicone-Lubricant-Type/dp/B000PJED72 I would even try wd40, or even plain water. Apply lubrication and listen for a change in the sound.

That sound is rubber squeaking. Any place that moves and has rubber is a canditate for that noise. Spray all the things.

This will find your problem and solve it short term. Maybe once every few months lube it again. Replace the part once you find it is the long term solution.

I think a better choice would be Boeshield T9.

http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-T-9-Waterproof-Lubrication-aerosol/dp/B001447PEK/

Sure! I am no expert, but I like my results. Here is what I did.

1. I went to amazon and bought:
   
   • Mineral Spirits
     
   • Rust & Corrosion Protection Spray
     
   • Little Wire Brushes
     
   • Orbital Sandpaper Pads (assuming you have an orbital sander)
     
   • Steel wool
     
     
2. I lowered the saw blade.
   
   
3. I spread Mineral spirits with the steel wool in small circles with a bit of elbow grease.
   
   
4. I scrubbed for a moment with the wire brush where there were bad rust spots, but then I thought "This is going to take for ever!"
   
   
5. I sanded it with my orbital sander and my highest grade sand paper pad. This created a thin slurry of rust and mineral oil.
   
   
6. I went back to the wire brush to scrub the spots the sander couldn't reach.
   
   
7. I went in the house with my slurry-covered fingers in the air opening doors with my elbows and grabbed an undershirt from the laundry to wipe down the saw.
   
   
8. I wiped down the saw.
   
   
9. I did one more pass with mineral oil and steels wool.
   
   
10. I sprayed it with the protection spray.
    
    
11. I marveled at/ took pictures of my saw.
    
    
12. I scanned my garage for other small tools I could quickly sand and spray.
    
    The whole evolution took less than 20 minutes.

If you want to lubricate your stickbox, I only recommend using this:

https://www.amazon.com/08897-Silicone-Lubricant-Dry-Type/dp/B000PJED72

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BXOGHY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nice for switches

Its my basement. During the winter it was fine. In the summer though, the moisture level is really increasing. I try to stay really vigilant checking my planes and table surfaces, and of course... this stuff http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

Yes, I use https://www.amazon.com/3M-08897-Silicone-Lubricant-Type/dp/B000PJED72 for similar issues although I don't have AKGs.

I would use one specifically designed for electronics like this one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KH0YDY

What do I clean my chain with before I wax it? This is what I use to wax.

http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant-11-Ounce/dp/B001B0VDC2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416845035&sr=8-1&keywords=chain+saver

I used WD40 to clean it but people say that's not good for it. What else should I use?

I actually like the way aluminium goes when it dulls down. This also, conveniently doesn't need maintenance.. However a guy here:
http://www.finishing.com/3600-3799/3674.shtml
recommends this stuff (Boeshield T-9):
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001447PEK/ref=nosim?tag=finishingcominc
to keep the shine, disses on Carnauba wax.

WD40 and a palm sander worked very well. I then sealed it with this stuff


Bostik 10220 Aerosol Top-Cote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000223UD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_X0qIDbCMEGJDK

It slides so well now.

Either get a chain brush with nylon bristles, or else use an old rag. Apply chain specific cleaner, or else kerosene, or WD-40 to the chain and cleaning tool, scrub the chain. If you haven't touched the chain in a while, you'll probably want to spend around 10 minutes working on cleaning it up. After that, you can either use chain lube or chain wax. Either is fine, it doesn't really matter which you use. Wax does tend to make less of a mess, at least as far as I've noticed.

If you want specific products, here's a chain cleaner,
here's a brush,
and here's chain wax

Maybe something like crc 3-36

CRC 3-36 Multi-Purpose Lubricant and Corrosion Inhibitor, 11 oz Aerosol Can, Clear/Blue/Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00192EX10/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EfY3Cb1VX44ZF

use a silicon spray lube like this and just soak down the control arm bushings. This fixed it for me but it needs to be re-applied about once a year.

I've had my car looked at in so many different ways. As part of my clutch install i told the mech to keep an eye out for anything loose because of this issue. The entire subframe had to get dropped and brand new hardware mounted it back in. All the suspension looked perfectly fine (note none of the hardware for the suspension was touched, just the subframe) and had absolutely 0 play. But the moment he drove it out of his garage for a test drive it creaked out of the parking lot.

So yeah, control arm bushings.

EDIT: But for a brand new car their reaction is kind of rude. Maybe talk to the person who sold you the car and explain and have them come for a quick drive to show them. Its hard to get a mechanic to take a drive with you to show them a problem without paying them a disgnostics fee a least or something

Nintendo joystick shafts go through a captured ball in the base which probably needs a thorough cleaning.
I would start by completely disassembling it and cleaning the entire base, especially the area around the ball. I use Brakleen to de-gunk them. Then after it dries, I use a silicone lubricant on all the metal mating surfaces.

What you want is a can of this stuff called [Houdini](houdini lock lube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5JFKKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_H6TKBbW7HM9MV)

And break pad cleaner for electronics

Frame Saver is fine, but sort of a waste of money. Boesheild T-9 works better, comes in larger bottles, and is cheaper by volume. It also has more applications than Frame Saver, so there's added value there, too.

I use Boeshield T-9 to protect my woodworking tools from rusting. Its a bit expensive but it lasts a long time. I reapply it once a year. http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

A lot of people are saying leverage, which will work. Alternatively, go with a power tool! Find the right sized bit (no idea if any of that set matches) and an impact driver and you should be able to unscrew it without much difficulty (after much soaking in penetrating oil).

Also, soak the bolts in PB Blaster. I swear that stuff is straight magic.
http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E

Best shit ever: DuPont Teflon Chain Saver- http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y

If you don't feel like taking the time to spray paint them, I'd say go with this.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001447PEK
It sprays wet like wd-40, but dries to a thin waxy film that last months.

I picked up the Shop Size Chain Saver on Amazon. The larger 'shop size' is actually cheaper than the regular aerosol size, but it looks like it's currently on back-order. :/

> DuPont Chain Saver

cough

http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant-11-Ounce/dp/B001B0VDC2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404283315&sr=8-1&keywords=dupont+teflon+chain-saver

Say hello to my little friend.

NyogGel

https://www.amazon.com/NyoGel-Synthetic-Flashlight-Silicone-Lubricant/dp/B00BOMKGPW

http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-oz/dp/B000I2079E/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1394596607&sr=1-1&keywords=p+blaster

Use Boeshield T-9 for long term storage or high humidity environments instead of wax.

https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-11-Ounces/dp/B000I2079E

https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-11-Ounces/dp/B000I2079E

Pick up one of these for $13 and this for $5 and practice wherever whenever!

Spray, let it soak in, repeat.

boeshield T-9

OEM's use dry silicone spray.

https://www.amazon.com/MWUR9-08897-Silicone-Lubricant-Type/dp/B000PJED72

Boom:

Houdini Lock Lube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5JFKKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7F22Cb8QKMNNJ

Try this: BOESHIELD T-9 Rust & Corrosion Protection/Inhibitor and Waterproof Lubrication, 4 oz aerosol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DD1DV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VKfECbFZQFBSM

Im a locksmith and I use https://www.amazon.com/HOUD1-Houdini-Lock-Lube/dp/B00C5JFKKE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478156780&sr=8-1&keywords=houdini+lock+lube.

I was able to spray some lubricant on the key itself to turn it so I can start it for an oil change. Do you think this product will work? https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_apa_i_FLYXDbJX1G6C9

have you tried boeshield?

http://smile.amazon.com/Boeshield-T-9-Waterproof-Lubrication-aerosol/dp/B0000DD1DV?sa-no-redirect=1

dupont makes something specifically for motorcycle chains:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B0VDC2

i have it, but have not tried it yet. i have been using YamaLube forever (even though i only recently got a Yamaha):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005BH9OSG

every bike place i have been seems to have yamalube, even if they dont sell yahama's.

You've never heard of PB Blaster? This stuff is magic

or PB blaster.

https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-11-Ounces/dp/B000I2079E/ref=pd_all_spx_5/146-4021135-0122059?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000I2079E&pd_rd_r=69018b96-57a5-11e9-8bb5-4d66d06308ae&pd_rd_w=Z79rJ&pd_rd_wg=BI4pX&pf_rd_p=181658a1-8c8b-49ea-9a7c-d3e4ca5d6a8c&pf_rd_r=1V3R7SNX7NNC1CXHCBE8&psc=1&refRID=1V3R7SNX7NNC1CXHCBE8

Boe-shield is the industry standard for inside a steel frame

For severe corrosion, try some penetrating oil like
PB Blaster.

That stuff looks good

This is a terrible price BTW, should be at walmart--
http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y

https://www.amazon.com/08897-Silicone-Lubricant-Dry-Type/dp/B000PJED72/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000PJED72&pd_rd_r=6FZHC6Y5RKFKB0BCMWZ2&pd_rd_w=DgZWZ&pd_rd_wg=jhiBG&psc=1&refRID=6FZHC6Y5RKFKB0BCMWZ2

will prevent the door seals from freezing shut

Since i have not seen anyone suggest this yet, WD-40 has a specialist silicone spray that is both plastic safe and dielectric. Hold down your trigger and spray a very small amount in the trigger hinge area.
Got rid of that same problem for me with no shipping.
This stuff ---> https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Resistant-Silicone-Lubricant/dp/B0083V8K0U

Try using PB Blaster to penetrate the gunk. I had this issue with a old VW and PB Blaster helped. Also tried using the blow torch/impact wrench. that failed but PB Blaster and this methods combined worked. HTH

I had to replace the front passenger hub assembly on my wife's minivan. The bearing nut came off with no problems and I thought that was going to be the bear. Nope. One of the brake caliper support bolts would NOT budge even with my impact and a half a can of PB Blaster. Eventually got it off after heating up the housing around the bolt with some MAPP propylene gas. That thing was ON there.

locksmith here. I dont see any lock on the door. No dial at least. Is it key operated? It could just be a hatch of some kind thats rusted shut. Try lubricating the crap out of it and using something like pb blaster or a similar penetrating oil. let that sit for a while than try opening it.

Try some pb blaster on all the moving metal joints. They could be rusted or otherwise frozen with grime.

First I would try a real penetrating oil like PB Blaster. It will suck into those threads and start dissolving the rust and also lubricate between the threads. Give those nuts a little tap with a wrench or something lightly after you spray it. Give it about 20 minutes to work. Also make sure you're not using one of these.

WD-40 is sort of a general purpose chemical. It's decent at a lot of things, but not really great at anything.

Best way to check it is to just spin the cassette with your hand. Does anything feel crunchy? Is it smooth? Is there any (significant) play or looseness?

Unless you notice anything wrong you're pretty much good to go. If you thinking the bearings need some lube you could spray a bit of T-9 in the hub-no disassembly required.

Tbh shimano hubs are pretty bad imo and if the freehub (or any other part of the hub) is starting to fail on you it would be prudent to just go ahead and replace the whole hub. Possibly the whole wheel as that would likely be cheaper, especially if you go used. Deore hubs are very low end and they have terrible terrible loose ball bearings. Not even worth fixing most of the time.

As for your stripped screw problem, i had the same problem on my Acura. I have a fatty flathead screwdriver, probably 5 time normal. I dremeled a notch into the head of the screw, sprayed it with blaster, let it sit for a bit and cursed and put a fair amount of weight into it and it broke free.

PB B'laster. Cheaper than WD-40. Its got a hell of a warning label on it so you know it's good. Not to be used by pregnant women.

I read that Hypersphere (guy who makes the Topre silencing rings of the same name) uses Super Lube 51010 to lube his Topre switches. Is there anything wrong with this lube that I should know (not plastic safe, wrong viscosity, etc.) before I order some?

Also, how long after using a keyboard should I lube it? A year or so?

Because whatever oil you're using is a wet lubricant so all of the dust and dirt and shit from the road sticks to it.

Use this https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y

WD-40, for the most part, is piss poor at doing anything well. It is over marketed, over hyped at what it does. It is a lubricant, a poor one. It is also a rust penetrator, a poor one. In the shop, we called it monkey piss, because you might as well have used monkey piss to get that rusty rotor that has seen 10 salty Midwest winters, off the hub.

It works as a jack of all trades (kinda), which makes it handy for the home owner that wants one can that can do many things. In reality, if you want a lubricant, get a proper one. If you want a rust inhibitor, there are brands available that do the job much quicker, that foam up, penetrate and stick to the rust (instead of dripping off) where you can see the rust pulled away and fall off. Go to your auto parts supplier and ask the guys who do wholesale for the local shops, and they'll point you to what is used. If they recommend WD-40, walk out.

Edit: Thanks to DrCockenstein for reminding what we used, PB Blaster. Here's an Amazon link to the product.
I can't recommend it enough if you are trying to loosen something rusty.

https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-11-Ounces/dp/B000I2079E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483636915&sr=8-1&keywords=pb+blaster#customerReviews
TLDR: WD-40 is garbage, a proper lubricant should be purchased.