Reddit mentions of ZEM Brush Golden Taklon Mini Detail Brush Set Liner 20/0, Mini Liners 20/0, 10/0, Details 10/0, 5/0

Since you asked for C&C:

1. Seams. Very visible seams along the entire length of the fuselage, and the wing roots. Seams along the leading edge of the wings as well.
   
   
2. Decals: From a distance, they look reasonably good, but realistically, in the future, use a gloss coat and decal setting solution like Micro Sol, followed by a flat coat once the decals have set. Some of the decals upon close inspection are silvered, i.e. the clear film of the decal is visible. Ideally, it should not be and simply appear painted on. Those clear film outlines shouldn't be visible. It looks like what you did was apply the decals directly onto the flat paint, which is why that's the case. They also don't look like they're sticking properly, or you're applying gloss (or is that decal film?) only where the decal is being applied, creating localized areas of glossy paint/surface that doesn't look like it belongs on the rest of the model.
   
   
3. Paint is a bit thick on the chin turret, it has visible texture. But I imagine you brush paint, so that's more likely to occur. Thin your paints a bit more next time and be mindful of that, but it doesn't look bad.
   
   
4. There are various splotches on the model (or are those fingerprints from a dusty model that's been handled?), along the tail, and left wing. If they are splotches, try to avoid those next time.
   
   
5. Mask your markings using tape, e.g the triangular "K" on the tail fin. Yes, including the lettering. It takes five or six minutes to draw and cut a mask out of something like a post-it note to use as a stencil, and looks way better. Or since you're brush painting, draw it directly onto the model and just carefully fill in the lines.
   
   
6. Canopy frames are detached from the body of the plane, but I suspect that's because that area has relatively difficult fit.
   
   
7. Canopy frame masking: the turret above the cockpit's frames are messily painted.
   
   
8. Bleeding paint: you can see where the olive green/drab has bled into the lighter gray below, see e.g. the area near the nose cone, just below the pinup drawing.
   
   
9. Looking back at your previous models, I think you need to read up on doing decal work. Plenty of tutorials on youtube.
   
   
10. Use a much smaller brush to freehand your markings. In some cases, I'd say you'd need an 5/0 to 20/0 brush (available at art stores) For example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R9SB3UM/ref=asc_df_B00R9SB3UM5278077/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B00R9SB3UM&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198071540295&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13272101989228897543&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004075&hvtargid=pla-324041884931. I use rounds and liners most frequently, but whatever.
    
    
11. I would skip adding more weathering for now or stuff like that. Focus on getting a perfect, clean build first. Also, I'd recommend something other than Revell USA for your next kit. Consider: https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Models-North-American-Mustang/dp/B000LFWIV8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511368443&sr=8-1&keywords=Tamiya+p-51D, or Airfix's Spitfire PR.XIX: https://www.amazon.com/Airfix-Supermarine-Spitfire-Airplane-Building/dp/B00BBCO9OE/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1511368490&sr=8-12&keywords=airfix+spitfire
    
    Both have relatively simple paint schemes, and both assemble well.
    
    Not bad overall, but many areas where improvements can be had. Hope that helps! And anyway, have fun.