Reddit mentions: The best art painbrush sets

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u/ZGMF-X23S · 2 pointsr/transformers

I started typing and this ended up being really long, hopefully it helps. I might have gone overboard, so if you need / want a TL;DR or more info on anything just say the word and I'll do what I can :)

My personal preference is to add details and touch-ups to my figures. I've done a few full repaints, and I'm working on my first airbrushed figure, but I really like adding in details where the factory didn't :)



I've had good results using alcohol based acrylics like Tamiya, Model Master, or Testors Acrylics (I think Enamels are Testors' main line, so make sure to check what type it is). Alcohol-based acrylics thin and clean up nicely with 91% isopropyl alcohol, I usually pick it up from whatever pharmacy is nearby (don't get the 70%, it doesn't work at all).

Citadel and Vallejo make nice water-based acrylic paints in additional colors, you'll definitely need a primer if you're working with Vallejo (I've only used a couple of Citadel paints, so I can't really speak to them).

You'll want to stay far away from acrylic craft paint, I've tried it in the past and it doesn't come out well at all (I just use some empty glass or plastic jars from stuff like sour cream or salsa since they're not too big).

Some folks like enamel paints, and there might be another kind of model paint, but the chemicals in those paints and their thinner tends to be quite strong so I avoid them. I used un-thinned enamels when I first started painting, and when I tried to use the thinner it ended up melting my paint tray and making a mess, so I'm not too keen to give them another try.


Tools are going to differ a bit depending on how you want to paint (hand painting vs airbrushing or spray painting).


Hand Painting:

You'll need paints, some soft bristle brushes (I have a set like these), something to stir your paint (I use a Badger Paint Mixer and love it to bits), thinner (depending on your type of paint), a mixing tray, some pipettes for measuring paint and thinner, something to hold your parts while painting (I like these Aligator Clips), something to stick the clips into (I use a styrofoam block wrapped in plastic from a craft store, but I've seen folks use taped together cardboard like from Amazon boxes or the cheap foam coolers), some fine grit sand paper or nail buffing blocks to help rough up the surface slightly to help the paint stick, and something for topcoat (I absolutely love Pledge Multisurface Floor Care, aka Future Floor Wax, it's a clear acrylic wax that dries to a semi-gloss to gloss shine, it brushes on nice and self-levels for a smooth finish, and one bottle will last a REALLY long time; I got a bottle a few years ago and I've used it on a LOT of gundams and TFs and the bottle is still half full). You may also want some smaller containers or jars to hold your thinner, brush cleaner (alcohol or water), and topcoat if you're using Pledge just so you don't need to keep the big bottle out on your workspace.



You'll need an airbrush and compressor, and then a lot of the same supplies as above. You'll also want some small-ish jars to store your thinned paint so you can re-use your leftover paint instead of having to toss it, and some painter's tape to mask off parts you don't want to paint and to keep your paint lines clean.

You can airbrush inside the house, but you'll want to do it in a well ventilated area if you don't have a spray booth (box with a fan and air filter to help move the fumes out the window and help keep the paint from spraying everywhere). I'm still learning to paint with my airbrush, so I don't have too many tips here.


Spray painting:

You'll need your choice of spray paints, alligator clips, fine sand paper, and some painter's tape to mask off areas so it doesn't get everywhere. I definitely wouldn't advise using spray paints indoors, the fumes tend to be really strong. I haven't really used spray paints in a long time, so I'm not a lot of help here either.



Some folks might recommend sharpies or paint pens / markers, but I've never had good luck with them.

I do highly recommend using a Micron, Graphix, or Prismacolor marker / pen for highlighting panel lines in .005 thickness for most figures. The .01 and even .05 markers can work well too, but they might be too thick for some figures, so a couple different thicknesses can't hurt (I've got a pencil case full of lining markers from those brands). Don't use sharpies for panel lines, unless things have changed, even the thinnest ones tend to dry a purpley-blue instead of black, and the lines are still really thick compared to the Micron.


Painting Tips:

  • Always wash your figures in some warm soapy water, rinse them off, and let them dry fully before painting. This gets rid of any leftover mould release from the factory, it helps keep the parts from sticking in the moulds during assembly, but it will repel paint, pledge, primer, and panel lines like mad. I've skipped this step in the past, but things never turned out as well; so now I wash all my figures shortly after I open them up and make sure they're keepers.
  • Always thin your paints! You might need 2-3 coats to get things just right, but the end finish will look really nice. I've found a 2:1 ratio of paint:thinner seems to work pretty well for most paints, but ymmv (the temperature and humidity can have a huge impact on how the paint comes out, and fans can speed the drying process, which can be a blessing or a curse, heh).
  • If you're painting parts that will rub against others, lightly sand the surfaces first. This will help the paint stick to the plastic better.
  • You might need / want to prime a piece before painting it. You can prime by hand with a primer like Vallejo Surface Primer, or with a spray primer. I find spray primer tends to come out smoother, but depending on what you're doing, either can work (priming by hand tends to come out a bit thicker, so ymmv again). When I paint by hand I'll usually only prime if I'm painting a dark piece a lighter color, but when I airbrush everything that's getting painted gets primed first.
  • After you paint something, let it sit for about an hour before doing another coat, and let things fully dry and cure before moving on to topcoating and panel lining (usually 24 hours between a final coat of paint and topcoat, and another few hours between topcoat and panel lines).
u/Route66_LANparty · 7 pointsr/Warhammer

> When moving a unit along their movement value'd distance, do you usually measure out the lead model, move it, and then move each other model in the unit in approximately the same (but not measured) distance to maintain coherency, or do you measure out each individual model in a unit to ensure not a single one possibly goes further than its value? Or is this something agreed upon by the players pre-match?

> If each model is measured, I could see some units (ie, conscript squads) being extremely time-consuming or difficult to deal with depending on terrain and model count.

Officially, each model. However almost everyone I've ever played with does it the "time saving way" when dealing with large groups of models. This usually isn't a problem when you are clearly moving them less than max movement range. This is especially the case with horde units that have greater than 10 models to a unit. 20x Poxwalkers for instance. Once you get used to playing, it isn't too time consuming for a single 5 model Marine squad.

> On the second question, is there a generally agreed upon "kit" or set of paint brushes to get before starting to paint models? In addition to the First Strike box I got last night, I also got the small Painting Essentials box which includes a brush (along with cutter, glue, and some small pots), but wasn't sure what other brushes I might need/want before starting to paint.

The "goto" kit for brushes tends to be a Winsor and Newton Series 7 Round Size #2 and #0. Keep them clean with Master's Brush soap and they'll last you a long time. You can find them on Amazon. At $10-$15 a brush they aren't cheap when starting out. And that's arguably more then you need for a first model. You can get by with a cheap bag of small "gold taklon" brushes from walmart or similar at first.

Here's something I wrote recently on brushes for someone else looking for some nicer brushes....

As for Army Painter brushes specifically. It's what I started with before moving to Kolinsky Hair brushes. Still use a number of their small dry brushes for small detail dry brushing. If you are set on Army Painter... The Wargamer series, specifically the Regiment, Character, and Detail brushes are pretty solid. As well as the Wargamer Small Drybrush. Certainly better than Walmart synthetics. Have held up well cleaning with Masters Brush Soap linked below. They just have never had the same type of fine tip you get on a Kolinsky. The super small Army Painter brushes aren't really worth it though in the long run.


I have a large collection of brushes with my better half. Bought her a large collection from different brands from around the world so she could try different styles to find the perfect brush for her.

Essentially, you'll want a Natural Kolinsky fiber brush in round shape for miniature base coating, shading, layering, edging and detail work. They will last you quite a while if you take care of them. Most people find they can do everything with a #2 and #0. A workhorse and a detail brush. Good natural Kolinsky hair helps thinned paint flow properly out of the brush, and holds an excellent point. There are a number of options to get a good Kolinsky brush:

As for brands, you have options:

  • Winsor and Newton Series 7. Well known for quality and value among miniature painters. This is the gauge by which other high end brushes are judged. - #2, #0
  • da Vinci. A little more but you can get a nice Travel Series for similar money to their traditional handled brushes. Helps protect the tip while in storage or traveling to the store to paint. They run a little smaller/thinner than W&N Series 7. - #2, #1. This is always the first brush my better half reaches for, if she's not feeling it that day though she'll pull just about any other Kolinsky brush from her collection.
  • On the cheaper side is ZEM. Had very good luck with them. Good companion for the W&N7 as I use ZEMs when painting metallics as they can be a bit rougher on brushes. They do have some ware to them after dozens of models compared to the more expensive W&N or da Vinci. But don't need to be thrown in the trash like the cheap synthetics. Brush soap does wonders. Set of size #10/0, #0, #2, & #4. Or Individually. These tend to be the first brush I reach for... since I gave the other brushes as a gift. I try to stay to my cheap brushes... If I'm not feeling it that day then I will grab a W&N7.
  • Other Brands of Kolinsky fiber brushes I own but don't have as much experience with... Raphael, Escoda, Connoisseur.
  • There's also Citadel's own Artificer line... They are also Kolinsky fiber brushes so need to be cleaned regularly. I have not tried them but many suggest they are similar quality as the W&N Series 7. Just a little more expensive.
  • When friends come over to learn how to paint up thier board game or DnD minis... I hand them a pouch an assortment of Army Painter Wargamer Brushes or Winsor and Newton synthetic Cotman so they don't need to learn on walmart brushes, but don't risk our Kolinskys.

    Then you'll want to keep it all clean with "The Masters" Brush Soap and Conditioner. Cleaning regularly will make a big difference brush life. ... Keeping brushes freshly rinsed in a basin can help prevent the bad buildup of dried paint to begin with. This kind of thing... or really any sturdy cup you have around that won't tip over easily.

    NOTE - You'll want to use cheaper brushes for Drybrushing, it can just murder brushes. Either walmart/craft store brushes you can toss, or just cheaper quality brushes made for it, like Army Painter or Citadels drybrush lines.

    As for paint... I use Army Painter and Citadel. Citadel primarily for anything warhammer to get color matches. Army painter for some washes, and anything else I paint (boardgame and DnD minis). Rither now I are only using Vallejo for Airbrush paints and a few premium metallics.


    There's a great guide that got me and my other half started over on the /r/minipainting subreddit.

u/Espadaman · 1 pointr/Watercolor

For someone just starting out, quality paper is the most important thing followed by paint and brushes. I recommend shopping online as you'll pay 2-3x more locally (unless you have a Blick store nearby, they usually match their online prices) and you can set your girlfriend up nicely without breaking the bank. I'm not sure what you're looking to spend so I'll try to give you a decent range of options.


Cotman and Van Gogh are the student versions of professional brands (Winsor Newton & Rembrandt) and the most often suggested for beginners. They come in pans (dried paint blocks you swipe with a wet brush to reactivate) and tubes. Though these are student grade they're both used professionally and very high quality. They're lightfast (won't fade with exposure to sun), use the same pigments that the professional brands do (though with a smaller amount) and are both very reasonably priced. And if she enjoys painting and looks to upgrade in the future, she could pick up the Professional version with minimal relearning how the paint performs (All brands behave a little differently on paper).

Of the two I would suggest Van Gogh as they're extremely vibrant, the pans are very easy to rewet (Cotman pans are difficult to get pigment from in my experience, and for someone learning to paint having to scrub a pan with a brush will be frustrating. The tubes better.) and come in nice compact travel sets that have a built in palette for mixing. The Set of 12 Pans is plenty to start with, you can mix a wide variety of colors from that. The 18 pan + 2 tube set is a great option as well as it gives you a nice variety of warm and cool primaries as well as convenient greens and earth colors, it comes with a small brush and sponge, I'd go with that one. The larger sets of 30-48 aren't necessary as they're mostly colors that are mixed from the single pigment paints included in the smaller sets, but if you think she'd enjoy having a ton of colors available without having to mix those are something you can look at too.

If you wanna ball out a little bit and get her some professional paints, Da Vinci has a ton of pan and tube set options. The 12 Full Pan Set again has everything she'd need getting started. They're as good as any brand out there. The pans are also twice the size of the student brand options and will last a very long time.

There's a ton of great paints out there, I suggest these because they're great value as well as quality and don't include a lot of the weird and rarely used colors you find in a lot of sets. I'd go with pans because they're ready to go as soon as you open them, you don't have to wait for the tube paint to dry for a day or two before you can store it or take it with you, they're very attractive gifts that are nice to look at (if you look on youtube you'll see 100s of videos of people just opening them and showing them off) and you can refill them with your own tube paints later on once you know what you like and start building your own palette. This time of the year there's tons of deals out there so if you find a nice set of Winsor Newton or something on amazon that's a great snag as well. Just avoid "store" brands like Artist's Loft or Masters Touch, or the tons of really cheap chinese sets you'll find online.


100% Cotton is the way to go. It can handle any technique and can take a ton of water without buckling or falling apart. Even the nicest paint will appear dull on poor watercolor paper and they can't handle much water before they start to give out. It can be a little pricey but it's well worth it. Again there's tons of brands but Arches is the most used and it's excellent so I don't wanna bog you don't with a bunch of brands. You could also grab a 22x30 inch sheet of Arches and tear it into a variety of smaller sheets (this is the most common and frugal way). Cold press is medium textured, Hot Press is smooth and Rough is obvious. Cold press is the most versatile so I'd start there. I don't use sketchbooks but if you're looking for something like that I've heard these are good.


Brushes are personal preference, some people only use one for everything and some people like a variety of size and hair types. If you wanna keep it simple a 10 or 12 Round is a good workhorse that can handle small detail and a larger wash. There's sets if you wanna get her a few to see what she likes. Synthetic or a blend is where I'd start as real sable or squirrel is pretty expensive. There's water brushes that aren't "traditional" but are popular for sketching or coloring ink art and are easy to use.

Hope this helps!

u/artomizer · 26 pointsr/SketchDaily

To me, watercolors are the perfect a pretty ok way to get in to painting.

  1. The supplies don't take up much space. You can get something like this, a brush, and a sketchbook and you're good to go.

  2. On the same note, it's super portable. You can stuff it all in your pocket and venture to the great outdoors.

  3. You can paint in a sketchbook, so you don't need to figure out what to do with a bunch of canvases.

  4. It's really versatile. If you're already comfortable with sketching you can use it to just add bit of color on top of that, or else you could skip the drawing completely and build up a bunch of paint layers.

  5. It's easy to clean up.

    A few of my favorite supplies:

  • Bee Creative Watercolor sketchbook - This is my favorite sketchbook. 100% cotton paper is so nice, and this book is actually pretty well priced.

  • A kneaded eraser - If you're doing pencil sketches first, a kneaded eraser will go a long ways in reducing smudges

  • M. Graham paint - I find this re-wets better than all the other paints I've tried. It's really nice.

  • MEEDEN tin - I have the big one and the small one and like the small one better. You can fit an extra row of half pans in the middle (which for some reason you can't do in the bigger one).

  • Silver Brushes - A mix of synthetic & squirrel. They've not very snappy, but they hold a ton of water.

    And a few of my favorite watercolor youtube channels:

  • Tim Wilmot - I love the way he explains his thought process. His style is also really neat, and surprisingly beginner friendly. His videos are pretty long, so for best results maybe turn it up to 2x speed, or don't feel bad about jumping around a bit.

  • Liron Yanconsky - A bit more hit or miss for me, but still has lots of great videos.

  • James Gurney - Less instructional than the other two, but his paintings are great and seeing his process is really interesting.
u/teatimetomorrow · 3 pointsr/Watercolor

Cute painting! I love elephants :) It looks like you're got a good grasp on how watercolors work, and to preserve whites of the paper. My biggest suggestion, as others said, would be to get some actual watercolor paper because you aren't going to get the lovely blooming, watery effect on canvas. I am not sure what paints you are using, but I would suggest a good quality paint too. Paper in this case would be more important! I do think changing up your supplies is going to give you that watercolor oomph you might be looking for.

I recommend in this order for paper:

  • at least 140lb whatever you decide.

  • Strathmore 400 series. This isn't "artist quality" but it's a pretty nice paper and afforable. For me, it handled better than the cheap "Canson XL watercolor" paper. You can get this at Michaels and probably Hobby Lobby.

  • Arches. Expensive stuff. Highly praised but I got to admit it's not my faovrite. Seemed to warp more than others. This is at Michaels and HL but it's cheaper to buy online.

  • Saunders Waterford. Also more expensive, harder to get in the US besides block style. The blocks annoy me though because it uses black glue on the edges which I found very hard to remove from the paper.

  • Fabriano Artistico (the artist grade), this is so far my favorte paper.

    If you've not used real WC paper before it's going to behave differently than canvas; it's going to warp while you paint on it. You can tape it down to your desk to keep it workable (or a masonite panel really cheap on, or a gator board), and after your painting is done and dry - flip it over onto a clean DRY pillowcase, wet the pack with a sponge (lightly but covered), lay a thin pillowcase/sheet overtop and iron the paper flat. Can take 10-15 minutes of continuous ironing, make sure to keep it moving. Make SURE not to get the front side wet.

    Next, I would recommend at least 1 large round brush. I really like this one:

    Then, for paints, I'd recommend if your budget is tight a Cotman set like this,

    You can get this at Michaels but it's...ridiculously more expensive.

    But if you can afford it, lines such as: Daniel Smith, M. Graham, Holbein. Remember that you don't have to just use one brand and pigments can vary from brand to brand! Check out:

    For color suggestions starting out.

    Lastlyyyy, check out,, for supplies. Cross check it with Amazon. Usually the art supply sites are a few dollars cheaper and that really adds up on tubes of paint. ships brushes for free to the US, tend to be a good bit cheaper, but shipping can take a few weeks.
u/meatbeater · 13 pointsr/Warhammer

As a fellow Tau player I just have to correct something, they arent robots. Theres little fish face alien fuckers in those suits.
Yes they are fantastically awesome !
If you hit your local shop on weekends you will very likely find people who will be incredibly nice to you and will be very happy to help you learn to paint. This is usually a great bunch of fanboys and we love talking to newbies :) My son will talk for hours on how awesome orks are and his buddie will tell me how amazing Chaos is. I play Tau, Space Marines, Eldar & Necrons. oh i'm 47 so the habit will last your lifetime.
As for what equipment, I suggest an exacto knife for removing tiny bits of plastic. A task light with a magnifying glass is awesome. A good set of brushes & an Army painter kit. Links are below. Paint scheme... dude they are all awesome. What do YOU want ? Dont go crazy at first. start simple, 3 colors and basic bases. As you get better you can add details. Please post photos of your progress and never be afraid to ask questions
For the greater good !

Light -

Paint -

Brushes -

u/slowrine · 1 pointr/minipainting

Looks like there is no size 2 in that set, but it still would be fine to get because there are a variety of small sizes, so you can decide what you like to use. If you don't like them, it'll be okay because when you do decide to buy nice brushes, you'll know more what you like and want.

I hope you don't mind my saying, but if you'd rather get something someone else has tried, then I recommend these. I got them for Christmas, because there were so many good reviews, and have not been disappointed. They're holding up way better than the citadel brushes I bought, too.

They're not the best quality (two of mine came with warped handles and I had to trim the tips of some), however I recommend them because I use them all the time now.

They have sharp points, they don't splay out right away like the citadel ones did, in fact the bristles stay clumped together very well, I don't worry about wearing them out fast because they were cheap, using them is so smooth, it's great, and they hold a good amount of water and paint. As a bonus, they come with a carrying case!

Happy painting!

u/Zerhackermann · 3 pointsr/minipainting

A couple other points:

In addition to keeping them clean, mind how you use them. THis is personal observation, mind you - Do not "poke" at things with the brush. dont even paint at a 90 degree angle if you can help it. Ive noticed that this will curl a synthetic brush in no time. good thing, I think in using the synthetics early on is learning to avoid that habit of jabbing paint into crevices and finding ways to "stroke" the paint

The shaking hands are tension and stress. It can either be from bracing too hard, i.e. "white knuckles" or from not supprting arms and such well or at all and so muscle fatigue creeps in. So: look at ways of supporting your painting limbs, but dont "clamp down".

Try making your hands like a cup and saucer or "gun hands" like you see in the movies. One hand - the saucer underneath. the other hand makes an "ok" sign and rest the heel of that hand - The cup - agains the heel of your "saucer hand". Now imagine the saucer hand holding the mini and the cup hand holding the brush between the thumb and forefinger. bingo. Now you can rest thesaucer elbow on the desk to support even better. and if necessary, both elbows.

Tis is not perfect of course but you get the idea of the thing. and you will find you can adjust this pose to suit whatever angle you need to get to by rotating the mini and bracing different parts of your cup hand against your saucer hand.

You probably want to avoid the crafts paints. Ive not tried them but the reputation is that the pigment is too coarse for miniatures. A couple reaper basic kits and you are set with paints, especially as you get better at mixing.

EDIT: I recently tried these brushes - Im a fan. that number 2 is incredibly good compared to what Ive been using. and they dont break the bank

u/celeryroot · 3 pointsr/Watercolor

$100 will get you pretty far! obligatory ymmv, a lot of supplies depend on what and how you paint (do you paint large or small? do you paint outside a lot and need a travel kit? and so on), etc, etc, but here is how i would spend the money:

  • paints

    kuretake gansai tanbi, 36 color set - the best set of watercolors i have used and relatively cheap, the colors are vibrant, mix well, and set beautifully.

  • paper

    probably where most of the money should go after upgrading your paints. i like the strathmore 500 series and the canson papers for sketching and learning. other higher end brands that are recommended a lot are arches, bee paper, and fluid 100. definitely try out both hot press and cold press, people usually develop a preference but one is not necessarily better than the other.

  • brushes

    honestly, brushes are not that important as long as they are not frayed or shedding. i've seen tons of professionals use and recommend this cheap set by grace art. i also like the princeton neptune brushes.

  • extras

    if you still have money left, i would suggest trying something cool like metallic and pearlescent paints if it interests you. or use the money towards other mediums if you want to branch out.
u/Continuum_Gaming · 3 pointsr/DnD

Give me a minute, I can link you to a comment I found explaining it in depth

EDIT: I'm just gonna paste it here. For reference, I,believe priming is coating it in a thin layer of paint to act as a base. Use black primer for darker results and white for lighter. Credit to u/pyrese

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

  1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
  1. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
  2. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
  3. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
  • Matte Medium
  • Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  • Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  • Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  1. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
  1. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
u/Extech · 3 pointsr/ActionFigures

Use acrylic paint and make sure you thin it, adding regular water will work. This is probably the most important step in producing a decent looking paint job.

Better painters than I say shoot for the consistency of milk, I usually don't go that thin, but close. You might have to do a few more coats to get proper paint coverage with thinned paint, but the figure will come out looking much better and smoother than painting straight out of the bottle.

Learn to dry-brush and apply washes. These are two of the easiest painting techniques to learn and apply, and they can take a custom paint job to another level.

Here's an old comment of mine That goes into more detail about dry-brushing a applying washes.

If you need brushes I'll recommend this set. I used them for 90% of all my customs and I'm a big fan. I've also bought a few of these sets cause they're dirt cheap and use some of them for dry-brushing and applying washes. Since dry-brushing kinda tears up brushes you don't want to use a nicer brush.

/r/minipainting has a lot of great tutorials on their sidebar. I pretty much learned everything I know from watching minifigure painting tutorials on Youtube, so maybe check some of them out. I started painting/customizing with Warhammer 40k and D&D minis and most of the techniques apply to action figures.

As JSK said Figurerealm is great, I used that a lot when I first started customizing, and it's great for looking at other people's customs to get inspiration.

I can't really think of anything else, but just ask if you have any more questions.

u/pyrese · 3 pointsr/DnD

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

  1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
  1. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
  2. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
  3. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
  • Matte Medium
  • Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  • Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  • Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  1. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
  1. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
u/MiscalculatedRisk · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

Everyone touts the W&N line and natural hair brushes but I've been having no problems with my synthetic brushes. You dont need to pay an arm and a leg for brushes if you dont need to, if you are looking for a decent set here is one on amazon for 26 bucks that has a great selection of sizes. Heck a lot of the reviews for this specific set came from warhammer painters. Here is a set with a few more brushes and costs less, reviews seem good too.

You can save up over time for W&N if you want, look up basic brush maintenance and keep your brushes in good shape and you will rarely have issues. In the end the best brushes are the ones that have good quality while being comfortable to use. W&N is just really good quality hair, but I dont find them comfortable to use so it didn't matter.

I paint on my primer due to living in a complex that doesnt allow aerosol paints on site, so I can really help much there, sorry.

Happy painting.

u/550g · 3 pointsr/Watercolor

watercolors LINK

we starting to use it in art schools and continue to use them in art academy. they really are good. no need to dig deeper in more expensive, pro watercolors.

fancy watercolors (i personally love them, but really, basically fo fun, mixed media) LINK

watercolor pad LINK

that's my choice. would highly recommend this producer, really great absorption, thick paper, different formats available. anyway, it's really good.

brushes is really very personal choice, depends on technic and such. I like this one LINK great for miniature work. You can look for some squirrel hair brushes in local store orLINK , they are good for starters and for wet painting.

EDIT. fanart sample where all those stuff used at once :P

u/Morander13 · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I sincerely want to thank you for such a thorough reply! I would like to address some of your points so perhaps you can expand on them a little deeper when you have the time.

>You seem to have thinned your paints, so that's half the battle won right there. They look like they could be thinned a little bit more though, and perhaps load your brushes a little bit less.

I did thin the paints with small amounts of water as that seems to be the golden rule from having lurked on this sub for a few days before starting my painting, the difficulty I had this area was not really knowing how much/little to thin them and what the consistency was supposed to look like(admittedly I did not watch any youtube videos on the subject as I didnt even think about it).

>The most glaring issue I see is a lack of colour depth. Your shadows aren't particularly prominent or seem absent in some areas and there seems to be a complete lack of any highlights.

This was exactly what I was thinking when I was painting them and this stems from looking at the box art and thinking "wow these figures really "pop" the colors are not at all what I would expect a command team to have" and while I was painting I kept telling myself they needed to be brighter. As for shadows and highlights, I did apply nuln oil shader but I watered it down so much that it doesnt even look like its been applied. I was concerened it would make the minis too dark(i.e. the Domaru's shotgun). As for the highlights, One of the biggest issues/concepts I am having trouble wrapping my head around is the highlighting. I have watched a few videos of the procedure itself but I am having trouble mixing paint to brighten it up for highlights and then where the highlights should be applied.

> Your neatness and thoroughness are pretty good. Could use a little work but fine for a beginner.

Thanks! I was actually working with a set of brushes that were recommended to me that ended up being sub par in my opinion and lacked the very small brushes that were needed to get some of the very fine details. I have started to educate myself on quality brushes and the sizing numbers on what they mean.

As for the color "blocks" that had not occurred to me so thank you for pointing that out, I will definitely keep that in mind for when I start working on the next group of my army. I am not quite sure how to get those subdued shades that are present on the box art but more practice will definitely help. Thank you again for your reply!

u/Gungyver · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Great work especially for a first time job, what kind of ink did you use. you did a great job detailing this, you used a gold gundam marker right. You can use a q-tip and some isapropal alcohol to clean up the few smudges on it. Then again it adds to the weathering look as if it was discolored in re entry. This makes me want to try weathering on one of my Barbatos kits. The Barbatos has quickly become my favorite Mobile suit so have at least one each of the kits except for the high res. Then again the HGIBO has become my favorite line so I have at least one of each kit with the exception of color variants as I do not see the point.

Is this a 1/144 right?

He could use a little dusting thought, then again I should not be talking as I rarely dust stuff myself.

As for painting supplies, you can pick up set at Walmart for around 5-10 bucks. however you do want to get at least testors brand enamel paints. they are good paints that are reasonably priced for plastic model paints and very good.

You can get a testors hand paint set for around $10-15 bucks at Walmart that also comes with a single paint brush and a small bottle of brush cleaner. However, its not the best brush for detail work on gunpla as its meant more for car models. So you would still want to pick up a small pack of brushes from arts and crafts or party section. You do not need super expensive brushes to do good work. the most i have ever spent on a brush was about 8 bucks for this one: This brush's tip is the size of a ruler mark so it is great for lining a 1/144 scale kit.

u/Cursed989 · 1 pointr/minipainting

I'm a big fan of Army Painter products. I've had pretty good luck with them so I'm kind of slanted towards them. So I recommend...

1- a set of these brushes.

2- Any of the Army Painter primers are good. But this is my favorite. Coats and covers well. Also works for a lot of different models.

3- A set of these have come in handy for me several times.

4- These clear bases are my favorite. I've rebased several figures with these. Love them for there ability to show the terrain the figure is standing on.

5- And a cheap basecoat sized brush for mixing paints and brushing on quickshades.

This is obviously just my opinion. But I hope it helps.

u/Probably_Not_Evil · 3 pointsr/minipainting

This Army Painter starter set is your best bet. It has Black, White, 3 primary colors, green, a flesh tone, a good brown, steel metallic(you can add colors to it of you want the metal to look a different color), and Strong tone wash(actually my favorite wash, period). Even comes with an okay detail brush.

If you want purple and orange. You can pick up any brand you want and it'll work just fine with these paints. Citadel is usually the easiest to find if you have gaming shop nearby. Or if you have a hobby lobby, they sell Vallejo model paints. They're good. Other brands that come to mind. Reaper, P3, Secret Weapon, and Scale 75. All good.

So all you'd need to get is a primer of your choice. And a decent brush, here's a decent brush set. And probably want to get a good matte varnish. Most people recommend Testors dull coat. But if you want brush on. Vallejo matte varnish is a good alternative. All in all you could easily be under $50.

Miniac's video on how to take care of your brushes

u/Laughmasterb · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I really like this writeup as a jumping point for learning how to lube. There's also lots of helpful info in the comments, or you could just ask questions there. If you're looking for a specific video guide I'd recommend Krelbit's; IIRC he uses 3204 in it but the process is the same.

As for brushes, I like this pack from amazon. There's one in there that's the exact size of an MX bottom housing slider rail which is nice, but it also includes a bunch of smaller ones. Brush size is a preference thing so it's best to test a bunch IMO.

Speaking of testing, experimentation is SUPER important with lubing. Everyone has different preferences so it's good to try different amounts of lube on a few switches to see what it feels like. I'd recommend at least intentionally overlubing one switch to see what it feels like, then trying different combinations of lubing certain spots and not lubing others. e.g. I prefer to only lube my stems.

edit: Here's one specifically using 205g0:

u/aspophilia · 2 pointsr/Watercolor

I’m new as well but I’ve done lots (maybe too much) research. What is your budget? From what I understand Windsor & Newton Cotman paints are a good student/hobby grade paint. They sell them in nifty little 12 pan kits that pretty much provide all the colors you need to make good mixes.

Here is a travel set for about $13:
Winsor & Newton Cotman Water Colour Sketchers Pocket Box

If you are willing to spend a little more on paint for artist grade I hear excellent things about these: St Petersburg White Nights Watercolour : NEW 12 Pan Set

I’ve seen these really cool portable brushes: High-end art travel painting brush Synthetic Sable Round Hair Short Handle Brush for Acrylic Oil and watercolor painting 3Pcs

Or you can use a water brush: Pentel Arts Aquash Water Brush Assorted Tips, Pack of 3 (FRHBFMBP3)

As for Paper, I really want one of these myself: Moleskine Watercolor Album Sketchbook - 5"x8" (Spanish Edition)

I hope this helps! :)

u/trevortypes · 7 pointsr/Sneakers

Couldnt resist the sns sale on this pair for about $130. and i knew id be blacking out that boost before i bought. (sorry dont see it available any longer, but its on goat and stockx for 120-160ish depending on size.) i wanted to try the full angelus method since heskicks said it lasted on youtube, and it took me 3 days on and off this weekend.

full photo album progress here with comparison pix in different steps of the method and against "OEM" black adidas boost


Day 1 – deglaze and dye. Deglazed before dinner, painted dye layer 1, wait 10 mins then dye layer 2. Let dry overnight.

Day 2 – Dye reducer. Feelgoodkicks on youtube said this was important to eliminate cracking and that purpleish sharpie-like tint, so I tried it. Make sure to very lightly roll a Q-tip over your dye work, otherwise else you can completely remove all your work. Later that day I painted with the flat black paint. Waited 10 mins then did a 2nd layer.

Day 3 – Acrylic Paint. Wait 10 mins and do a 2nd layer. Still looked too glossy to me, so I masked the upper and sprayed with krylon later that day. And a 2nd layer a few mins after as the instructions state to get my finished product. Also added alternate laces and gunmetal grey aglets. Didnt end up using the mink oil since Im worried the boost will gloss up, but I still might try some later.


With any painting, take your time and do LIGHT layers to prevent chipping/cracking as much as possible.

I didnt mask the upper when painting since i went slowly, but paint brushes are actually easier to use very close to the primeknit than the sharpies were. I normally painted that upper edge first, then used a larger brush to paint the main part of the boost.

Krylon spray was a must. Album has a comparison photo with just angelus finish and its super glossy compared to the krylon finish. Using krylon finish alone, however, the paint rubbed off the boost whenever i touched it. so gotta do both

PREVIOUS POST (sharpie method)

Since the previous sharpie method rubbed off a bit on my fingers, I retouched with the anglus acrylic finish and then krylon again to get it more matte. Seemed to do the job.

I think for the sharpie method id have to add deglazer and angelus finish. so a total of 4 purchases would be good (deglazer, sharpie, angelus acrylic finish, krylon matte finish)


Angelus Leather Preparer & Deglazer 4 Oz - $6.60

Angelus Brand Leather Dye W/applicator - 3 Oz ''Jet Black'' - $6.75

Angelus Acrylic 4 Ounce Paint (Flat Black) - $8.49

Angelus Brand Acrylic Leather Paint Matte Finisher No. 620 - 4oz - $7.59

Krylon Matte Finish - $3.47

Heartybay Nylon Paint Brush Set - $5.98

u/SunMakerr · 1 pointr/CampingandHiking

Thanks for the detailed reply! I'm gonna run a few potential purchases by you if you don't mind. I'm looking at this Sakura Kai set. As a total beginner should I be looking for one with more/less colors? I also figured I'd need more than the single brush that comes with it so I was looking at these but I don't know if those are the right sizes. They seem to all be pretty narrow. And lastly was looking at this notebook. Seems to be a good size for me as I want to mostly try land/cityscapes or just objects.

To clarify, a watercolor pencil will allow you to sketch the shape which then disappears but you use a fountain pen which doesn't disappear right? Is that just so you can add bold linework before/after the watercolors? Both sound pretty cool but at the same time seem to serve different purposes.

This is all going on my wishlist by the way which is why I'm linking to amazon. My family is a bit odd in that everyone just checks amazon wishlists for gifts lmao. Practical if a little uninspired.

u/locorules · 1 pointr/rpg

As a starting point you should probably look into natural Sable Brushes, size 2 for basecoating and 0 or 0/2 for finer detailing. Make sure it has a good point. I am currently using these, the regiment brush is quite good.

Some mini painters will quickly mention Newton and Winsor 7 series brushes or Raphael Kolinsky sable brushes, which are more expensive, but I cannot confirm that, I have not tried Kolinsky sable brushes. Be sure to buy a nice brush cleaner to preserve your natural hair brushes.

Here is a nice unbiased information (mini painters tend to be fanboys on certain brands of paints and brushes) about brushes or this one by one of the best mini painters around, one of the comments mentions Toray brushes which are often used by minipainters

EDIT: Added the APJ link

u/Jushy79 · 1 pointr/minipainting

Honestly, those brushes should do just fine but I can’t guarantee it because I have never used them, imo 12 brushes seems a bit excessive but you do you. I bought the Army Painters Wargamers most wanted brush set . Honestly these have been the best for me, the insane detail brush is one of my all time favorites for detail and the regiment is great for any kind of base coating or medium-large size miniatures. The small drybrush is great for highlighting and (obviously) dry brushing if you’re into that (you should be).

u/kolkolkokiri · 2 pointsr/ArtFundamentals

Get the 40% or more off coupon code at Michaels, you can use your phone. See if you can get 40% off all, instead of just one item. Otherwise bring a friend and use it on the expensive items.

  • 15$ to 30$ - Paints like Winsor & Newton or Reeves or Prima I would avoid Artist Loft's paint as I have no experiance but other Michaels stuff is hit or miss. I think cakes is easiest to start with.
  • 2$ - Palette or something to mix on. Dollar Store is probably good enough, otherwise like 5$.
  • 20$ Paper - Canson or Strathmore make good tear off sheets. Make sure it says watercolour. A pad of paper is easier to start with then a bound sketchbook. These are usually on a buy two get one free type sale.
  • 15$ - A brush set or Waterbrush if she travels with it (if you get this get it on amazon its overpriced in store) aim for something soft and labelled student or professioinal. Basically not Crayola.
  • EDIT a WATERPROOF Sharpie.

    Depending on sales you can probably get everything for 50$. You might be able to get under 40$ but it'll be damn hard. The drawing pencils and kneaded erasers are cheapest at an art store where they will be sold loose for a few dollars, however with Christmas coming up also keep an eye out for sketching sets as they will use a like 5.99$ one to get all the art students back in stores and tempt them with other things
u/LeFouHibou · 1 pointr/SWlegion

Legion is my first miniature game as well! A buddy of mine recommended a army painter set when I first started. To be honest they are not that great and a couple of the brushes have fallen apart. I have been eyeing these brushes on amazon:

they seem like a nice set! Those vallejo paints will work perfectly, I have a few of them and I really like their product. Citadel paints (in my opinion) are top tier paint quality wise. If you dont want to shell out the "Citadel Tax" for them, vallejo is an awesome product for the price.

u/Thorvald1331 · 1 pointr/SWlegion

You're almost certainly going to ruin your first brushes, god knows I did, so don't buy anything too expensive. I'd recommend this set as a good starting point;

Also make sure to grab some brush soap to clean your brushes out;

Here's a vid on how to take care of your brushes and use the soap;

You should absolutely make a wet palette too, here's another vid;

As far as paints go, vallejo and citadel are probably your best option, both are very good brands of paint, some people tend to avoid citadel because they tend to cost a little more and if the jars aren't closed tightly they can dry out easily, so It's best to get what you can get both cheaper and the easier.

u/Oghrim05 · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

Great advice thank you. I got a set of 12 synthetic detail brushes on amazon for a little over $20 that seems like a great jumping-off point:

Once I am more confident in my brush care I will spring for W/N. I got the pick of masters brush cleaner too, and set up a wet palette in a small Tupperware box the way I saw on the Tabletop Minions channel:

Airbrushing still seems miles away (advanced) and I don’t think I have a workstation set up for it. I’m going to rattle-can prime the dark imperium box next.

u/mrmpls · 1 pointr/minipainting

Testors Matte spray, I assume? You said I should do matte followed by gloss, but I read that I should do gloss (for durability) followed by matte (for non-shiny appearance). Which is best?

I may have to go with Vallejo paints if I can find them, as they're frequently recommended and come in droppers (which I think will be less fuss).

I read that cheap brushes will be more frustrating than they are worth, and since my free time is scarce, I planned on using nicer brushes. What would you recommend for a cheap brush set that's not a pain in the ass? Something like [this on Amazon, $15] (

u/gweezer · 1 pointr/minipainting

Like, it seems, everyone else, that was my starter too. It's supremely useful for basic paints that you'll use on everything, blacks, greys, whites, and browns, but it had little else for specific details. (Which was probably the point). Mine came with a yellow, blue, and green that I don't like and have already replaced (except the yellow because I just don't use the color enough to need to). No red.

I'm personally not a fan of the paints themselves, though. They work for the fact that you don't have the money to buy all those browns and blacks individually, but they're too runny for my tastes, separate really easy and are hard to get back, and I just don't like dropper bottles. I feel like a lot of paint is wasted for the fact that I can't just drip my brush in when I just need it for one or two little details.

That said, I'm still using most of them. I bought my own paints for skin tones and bright colors. I use the GW Citadel paints, I know some people think they're too expensive, but they're over all better quality than most other paints I've tried.

When you first go to get extra paints, try something in a tub instead of with a dropper, see which one you like best. It took me a little getting used to the tubs, but I hate the droppers now.

As is said, you'll want better brushes. What I used for a long while is This They're not exactly great quality but they're better than most basic cheap sets you'll get at a craft store. The exceptional low price comes with a month long shipping time, though. Right now I'm trying out Army Painter brushes I got that set and the Character and Pshyco brushes. I only just bought them so I can't say anything myself, but I've heard good things.

One thing the kit doesn't even mention, if I remember right, is sealer. When I first started I tried to get a basic art acrylic sealer from a craft store, but it stayed forever sticky and destroyed the first few minis I painted, which was a huge disappointment. Your local game store should be able to show you what they use. I use the Citadel Purity Seal simply because it's all that local store had, I couldn't compare it to other spray sealers. It has a mate finish, and you have to be really careful to not over-coat or you'll loose detail.

I also have a little tub of Citadel 'ardcoat which is a high gloss sealer. I use it on top of the spray for a couple details, like anything wet or metal highlights, but in my experience anything glossy has been tacky, so use sparingly if you use at all.

u/NKirkeby · 2 pointsr/Watercolor

So... There are only two of these left, partially because I already shared it to our local group.

Set of 8 sables slashed down to $30. I ordered a set myself and they are very nice. Not like Winsor Newton Series 7 nice, but very nice.

Best Professional Siberian Kolinsky Sable Detail Paint Brush, Value Set of 10, High Quality Miniature Brushes Will Keep a Fine Point and Spring, For Watercolor, Oil, Acrylic, Nail Art & Models

u/spartankelli · 4 pointsr/Gloomhaven

A great place to start is the mini painting starter sets by Reaper:

They're not too expensive, and they are a great intro to mini painting. They also come with pieces to practice techniques on, and a lot of paints to work with as well. I'd get those, and maybe some brushes.

I also would recommend a wet palette to keep paints wet between painting sessions, magnifying glasses to help see, and a mini holder.

I also got these brushes, which seem to be working well for me, and have a mix of useful ones.

u/hicks420 · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

I have arthiritis which cause a. Hand pain b. Hand tremor c. Poor motor control and whilst my models aren't great, they're a similar standard to what I see other people bringing.

With those three issues in mind, these help me.with the thick rim help a ton. Really easy to control and makes it easier to control the tremor

Finding the painting angle/technique that works best for you - for me that means having my painting arm at a right angle at the elbow, and doing a lot of the work via elbow movement rather than hand.

Blue tac your models to a stable base (tin can for me) for painting

u/RyuSeishin · 2 pointsr/DnD

Thank you!

I've used the The Army Painter inks, I've got a kit on amazon

I made everything using those inks, washes and a regular miniature brush from this regular set

I've focused on having areas of high contrast to make the mini more interesting


I borrowed my Aunt's airbrush just to test it so I tried in the Bat, but since it's a cheap airbrush and sometimes it clogs I've only used to give a base coat of dark red, then I went back to the basic brush


Im glad you liked, it makes me happy :D

u/Skoopz · 3 pointsr/Warhammer

I use the Amazon choice pack of ten miniature brushes, cost me £12, I found the games workshop brushes didn't hold their tip as well I liked and I gave these brushes a punt and I love them. Had them for over a year now and are in a much better state than my GW ones, get some Masters Brush Cleaner as well and all your brushes will stay in good shape.

Here's the link:

u/mikeybox · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Disclaimer: In this video I'm lubing a linear switch but if you're lubing a tactile switch, you might want to skip lubing the legs of the stem and the leaf bumps, because this decreases the tactility of the switch.

This video shows what I do when I lubricate keyboard switches with grease and a paintbrush. This video can even help someone who doesn't know anything about lubing keyboard switches and just wants to see what it involves and how they could get started.


I will go slowly in the video, trying to be sure you can see what I'm doing.


My choices of where to apply lube are based on experience and on the results of an experiment I did and documented here:


I wanted to show 2 different ways to open the switch, using a special opener tool or using regular tweezers. Both methods work fine.


The grease I typically use for this method is Tribosys 3204, which you can purchase from keyboard vendors such as,,, etc. Other greases I like to use are Krytox 205g0 and Christo Lube MCG 129.







4 Prong Pick-Up Tool:


Switch Opener tool:


In case you are opening Halo switches or BOX switches:


Acrylic switch holder / modding station:




A 3d printed option:

u/Kesbae · 1 pointr/funkopop

This isn't the exact set I got, but it's similar. I mostly used the three brushes on the right. The fan-like one was great for broad painting like the white and the black, and used the smaller ones to get into the little spaces, to clean up lines as much as possible, and do the smaller parts like the eyes, nose, ears,etc.

u/smasho1 · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I am clueless with cutters, drills, sculpting-- I can make a snake out of green stuff. But for brushes and paints-- aha! I have your back.

Can you order from Amazon? These aren't CHEAP, quite, but they are really really great and can do just about anything! Link:

Also, these aren't nearly as good as Vallejo or Reaper paints, but they are far more affordable and if you use a wet pallete you can dab them with water for the perfect texture. Also, they mix very well (this is just one of the sets, you can compare others of this or Apple Barrel brands)

u/TheWeedsiah · 1 pointr/minipainting

I first bought this set when i started

Gives you a ton of brushes and you dont have to worry about what happens to them. You will mess them up and learn why. I also think having some cheap sythetics like the ones michaels sells (if in us) is helpful. Synthetic sucks because it doesnt hold much paint but that doesnt mean they cant serve a purpose because they have more spring usually and dont fray at tio as quick. There are several other bruah packs on amazon comprable and maybe better then what i listed. I literally just got my windsor brushes today in mail so i cant comment how much better they are but i know i would have destroyed them if i got them when i started. Its a nice way to reward yourdelf after a few months painting

u/shovellovin · 3 pointsr/Warhammer

This is a fairly affordable set that will help you get started.

Also, get brush cleaner to extend the life of your brushes.

When you get some natural bristle brushes that you want to keep clean this helps keep them in good shape.

Remember to dunk your brushes in water every few minutes, while you're painting, to keep paint from drying on the bristles. Also, don't store them standing up. Store them laying down so that water and paint don't work into the ferrule.

u/ronnoc3115 · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

I use a brush called "The Psycho"

I know it's probably more difficult to just hand-paint all of the small details, but I enjoy the precision practice, and whenever I paint it's with friends so I don't mind when it takes a while to get something done. I feel more accomplished getting it done by hand and exercising patience in the process.

I also use a slightly larger brush called "Insane Detail" for things that are small but would be too tedious with "The Psycho"

u/morgan_mayhem · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

the duck is alive

I LOVE this stuff. It's like powdered Christmas. Big Train Spiced Chai

And now I can't stop thinking about how nice it'd be to be sipping on that while playing with these... Pentel Arts Aquash Water Brushes 😀

u/G0ATLY · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Oh goodness, if you like ink you muuuust try Inktense blocks!! There is a 24 set with WHITE! I know it's not "traditional" to have white, but I love em! They go on dry, then add the water OR you can premix with water and use the ink that way. Once it is wet and has dried. You can go over it again with out worry the under layer will smear!! (Long as all the dry portions were wet at some point and dried.) IT IS AWESOME!

The company Derwent also has a set of Inktense pencils that work the same way, and keep your hands somewhat cleaner.

Also you can set Inktense on fabric, so designing on shirts, quilts and what have you is just eaaasy! There are a LOT of ways to use these! Printmaking, watercolors, stamping, inking, washes!~ Add to gesso or Mod Podge for a colored glaze! Lots of things really... It can cater to the professionals, amateurs and beginners!

There is also a set of water pens that you may be interested in, with trying these. I have always used brushes though, with water.. Or I wet the brush, and just dab it on the lil block its self. Or chip off a lil piece of color and add water to it on a little pallet. (Piece of plastic lol.)

Question: Can the name be computerized, long as it is drawn? Aka mouse/tablet?

u/Euphanism · 1 pointr/ageofsigmar

You would think these would be bad for being so cheap, but if you take care of them they'll last a decent amount of time, and won't break the bank. You'll be surprised at how much easier it gets with the right brushes. Keep going and you'll keep improving!

u/starlaoverdrive · 1 pointr/monobo

I came across these Jane Davenport Mermaid Markers at Michael's when I went to pick up some Tombow brush pens. I went back and forth on buying them but in the end I caved. They're like any old refillable water brush, and it's way cheaper than buying 12 water brushes and filling them with fountain pen inks (I have one water brush dedicate to FP ink). They're a dye-based water soluable ink and the tips are bristles instead of a flexible marker tip. A little ink goes a long way so I can see these lasting for a long time before I need to refill them!


Also I love seeing /u/colette0101's posts and I need more art-doing in my life!

u/brannana · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I bought a set of 10 Kolinsky Sable brushes off of Amazon, which came with sizes from 5/0 to 8. I've done all of my painting so far with just the 1 & 2 and haven't even touched the others yet. The points have held well, no hooking and only the occasional stray hair.


As someone else with shaky hands, I find proper bracing of my hands helps a lot (as does my gut). Elbows in, forearms braced on my sides/ribs. Left hand holds model holder, right hand first three fingers (thumb, index, middle) hold the brush, the other two touch my left hand to help steady my hands relative to one another.

u/taillesspigeon4 · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

This brush set was the single best (and one of the cheapest), investments I made early on in this hobby. There's a great variety of sizes and styles, and it really let's you figure out what you're comfortable with.

u/dpeterso · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

Thank you. I will say that it definitely helps to practice a lot and have good materials. Learning how to highlight a face is a must and there are a ton of videos and tutorials about that. I recommend a good set of brushes (about 2-3 different sizes), I use thePsycho by Army painter and I have used it for the last 2 years for those fine details. I am also beginning to use a wet palette which helps create layers, I usually do about 3-4 different shades. Finally, using a set of magnifying lenses helps a lot. I can give more details, but those are the biggest tips I can give.

u/ChicagoCowboy · 3 pointsr/Warhammer

I get a ton of mileage out of a set of Virtuoso brushes I bought on eBay Amazon (sorry, brainfart) for like no money. There's an assortment of flats, round, and liner brushes that are great for detail - some are size 2 or 3, large enough for coverage, some are 1, 0, 00, perfect for precision work. I've been using them for about 3 years now and they're just starting to need replacement. Pretty good for what I think cost $15 to start with.

Edit: found the link, they're $20 now, but still worth it in my opinion

u/SmashFucker · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

Army Painter's 3 brush starter set is like $11 on Amazon and some of the best brushes I've used. There's a medium base coating/wash brush, a pretty solid dry brush, and a detail brush fine enough to do eyes.

I would pick a simple color scheme and work on washes/edge lighting. I would avoid white or yellow as they're typically harder to make look decent.

u/redsonatnight · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I've been using these and they're great - good tools make you value them, and go that extra length to make sure that they're looked after.

u/Rosenthingy · 1 pointr/minipainting

I use some junk no-brand brushes I found on amazon with good reviews. I cut-down the #3 brush for using as a flat. Base-coat with the #2 & #4, main workhorse #1 & #0, and the 00 & 000 for tiny parts. Perfect for minis. By the time they wear out, you dont care about getting a new one cause the whole set was $10. They hold a good amount of paint and flow well enough.

this mini was done entirely with the linked brushes

EDIT: A warning though, since these are cheap synthetic bristle brushes, the larger ones curl pretty bad with lukewarm water. Use only cold water for cleaning. Keeping the tips moist helps keep the bristles together and from splaying out too. The curly hook, a trademark of cheap brushes, I find to actually be useful for getting a reliable fine-ish point that goes where I want it more predictably. But I may just be a bad brush apologist.

u/maxjooce · 2 pointsr/bulletjournal

I currently use kuretake watercolors with these brush pens and I think they’re pretty solid. It’s not a huge investment and I think they’re a good starter pack for casual water colorists.

I highly also recommend clipping your pages and having maybe a hair dryer handy so your pages don’t warp from getting too wet.

u/PressurePlate · 2 pointsr/bugmansbrewery
  1. Check out my comment on this post for the colors that are going into this scheme!

  2. It's only two colors and a wash! First hit it with Beastly Brown (V), then wash it was Agrax Earthshade (C), then highlight with Leather Brown (V).

  3. I used a 5/0 from this set to do those. To be frank, the eyes are more impressive. Haha
u/Brentoxor · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

For example, this box set contains almost all the colors you will ever need (other than specific ones).

Obvious colors for these models - army green for the green armor, necrotic flesh for highlighting the armor, skeleton bone probably for the pants (may need to add a little brown depending on the color you like), and one of the flesh tones for the skin. They primarily used the dark tone (black) wash on the basically the entire model, I think we could do better. Recommend, flesh wash for skin, dark tone for weapon and armor crevices, and soft tone (brown) for the paints. Khaki pants and black detailing is just too much contrast for my taste.

Side note, Army painter's paint brushes are decent but there are other options. I recommend the Virtuoso paint brush set, that will give you every kind of brush you would need.

u/BugFix · 1 pointr/minipainting

> Good but cheap brushes, you’re probably looking at decent synthetics

FWIW: I got two sets of these generic "Artbrush Tower" brushes recently for my kids to ruin:

They're fantastic! No, they aren't Series 7's or Raphaels. But they have been very sturdy, hold a great (seriously: great) tip, and are like a dollar a piece in the set.

u/lobsterwithcrabs · 0 pointsr/WarhammerFantasy

I would recommend a battalion as well as an army book.

As for painting, I found it immensely helpful to paint the figures before I clipped them out of their brackets. The only thing would would need to pay attention to there is that you will need to add a small dab of paint to the spot that was attached to the bracket and you will need to know what pieces you are going to use and which you are not going to use. This was useful for me because you have something to hold on to as you paint (especially when detailing). It also allows you to paint areas that would be immensely hard to paint with any degree of detail or accuracy if the piece was already assembled.

Cheap brushes sets with which to paint:
Set 1,
Set 2, Set 3

Cheap Detail Brush: Brush

u/virusoverload · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

They're half decent brushes. A cheap square shaped brush is good for the very light over all dry brush.

However if there's a games workshop near you their brushes are decent for the cost if you don't want to break the bank on brushes.

Games workshop gold paints are awesome too. But for silvers I use Vallejo model air as they coat really well.

u/RynoKenny · 1 pointr/MechsVsMinions

Thanks for the recommendations

After finding no hobby store with paint near me, I finally pulled the trigger on $22 red spray primer, $39 paint set, and $14 brushes on Amazon. Thankful that this game is so cheap at $75 because the paints really kicked it up!

I looked at a lot of reviews, if anyone is curious:

u/Lrs8855 · 3 pointsr/Warhammer40k

He is using all of the GW brand brushes, avaliable on their online store and at your LGS.

I use:

Highly recommend, the "kolinsky" keyword is important. It is a natural hair from a weasel, rather than a synthetic filament. Don't use natural hair brushes with metalics though, the metal chips scratch the hair so it won't stay as pristine as long.


u/Ajuvix · 4 pointsr/interestingasfuck

You can make a custom personal logo stamp online for about 25 bucks at places like

[Ammonium chloride on Amazon for about 8 bucks a pound] (, and the hardest thing to find were the markers

Montana acrylic empty marker 0.7mm extra fine for 6 bucks

X-Passion 3 piece water brush set for 8 bucks

You could make simple, elegant designs with the brushes and markers that look so much smoother than a traditional woodburner and much faster too. I have a few keepsake boxes I'm going to put outlined brushstrokes of animals and an ornamental design around the edge, stain it and seal it. Perhaps add some gold metallic accents if it's not too much. It could be finished in a few hours and look like it took days.

u/Homegrown_Sooner · 3 pointsr/UNBGBBIIVCHIDCTIICBG

Paint: 12 piece - $8.96

Brushes:12 piece - $7.99

Knifes: 5 piece - $6.74

[Canvas:(12) 8x10 - $11.99] (

Paint Thinner: 34 oz. - $13.69

Total: $49.37

All of this should last you a while. You can share with your spouse too. Maybe get two sets of brushes though. You can do it. I never have painted anything in my life because I was scared how I'd waste my time on how it would turn out. You just have to do it! Loved every painting I have done. You will never like everything detail about you art (happy little accidents) but you will be happy with the overall outcome. Plus it is so relaxing!

u/steder · 1 pointr/minipainting

Some folks just tip the handle of the brush and use it to transfer (personally I think that's a bit of a mess but could work in a pinch). You could probably use toothpicks or cotton swabs just as well as you just need something...

You could use a good brush but you need to be careful to avoid getting paint in the ferrule as that can damage the brush and it ultimately probably isn't worth it when there's cheaper / safer options.

I'd say grab a few cheap brushes and sacrifice them to the paint pot gods. They're really helpful for basing (applying PVA glue), transferring paint to pallets, whatever.

Don't sacrifice a more expensive nylon or sable brush as you should be able to get a bunch of cheap nylon brushes for $5 or so:

u/Asgard_Thunder · 238 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

Based on the width of the '' '' '' spilled '' '' '' coffee, and the way it stays on nearly perfectly parallel tracks throughout the shape of the
'' '' '' stain '' '' ''

The fact that we have a deeper hue on the part of the '' '' '' stain '' '' '' near the pot, and a corresponding wide splotch, indicates the pressure on the beginning of a brush stroke. and then a lighter tail that breaks of into two parallel strokes, indicating OP quickly flicked up with the intention of making a steamy effect.

Based on the look of the mark I'd guess a flat or angular flat

In fact I would guess that you've been rough with your brushes. When you dry off a flat to aggressively you bend the bristles and sometimes a 'V' shape gets stuck in the brushes dry state. Which I'm guessing is what the brush you used to do this with looks like.

Here's a link to some new brushes, the one you used is clearly in need of replacement

and here's a guide on how to look after your brushes better

I'm gonna give this bullshit attempt at a post a 1/10 for effort. You'll have a more realistic fake stain if you blotch coffee with a paper towel and run the end between your finger tips to squeeze out actual liquid drops. The naturalization of your faked stain was the goal. You went over the top in your artistic efforts. Better luck next time though.

u/Thespeckledkat · 3 pointsr/Watercolor

Daniel Smith Essentials set $23 , Arches Hot Press Watercolor Pad $11, Pentel Waterbruahes 3 pack - $13 , and a bottle of [India Ink $3] ( If I had a little extra, I'd spring for the da Vinci round 6 sable travel brush - favorite all around brush for smaller paintings :)

What about you? What would you have purchased? Or are you looking to buy?

u/Kastellie · 6 pointsr/sketches

Try ink wash, it’s similar to watercolor in the sense you have to build your darks. I find it easier to work with. A water brush might be helpful if you aren’t too into an ink wash.

Brushes: Water Coloring Brush Pens, Ohuhu Set of 6 Aqua Painting Brushes for Water Soluble Colored Pencils, Water Color Water-Base Markers, Powdered Pigment Watercolor Paints for Christmas Gifts

I use them for water color but I know a lot of artists that use these for ink washes. You fill the handle with water and go from there.

Hope this helps.

Edit: spacing.

u/NecroGi · 1 pointr/minipainting

Beginning Paint Set

Good Beginner Brushes

Palette I still use

This should get you started, the only other thing I'd suggest is getting a black wash (I use citadel paints so I use Nuln Oil, unsure what the technical term for it is). The thing is, I've purchased a ton of stuff. A TON OF STUFF. I never ended up using the Dry Paint set that I got, out of all of the washes I only use two of them on a regular basis and I use expensive brushes now. If you're just starting out it's better to use these synthetic brushes because they're cheaper and you don't have to worry too much if they get ruined. Expensive brushes are great, but you won't know why until you get better.

u/HBreckel · 1 pointr/amiibo

I've heard acrylics or paint specifically made for painting miniatures is the way to go. I'm currently working on a Rockstar Pikachu and bought

For the black on him I actually used India Ink due to the fact it's archival and will last forever. I'm still waiting on the paint set to arrive so I can't comment on how good they are.

If you want to give your custom any sort of topcoat I highly recommend

There's a few different ones, gloss, semi gloss, matte. I personally go for matte as it gives models a nice touch of class. You don't have to use a topcoat, but it can add a little to the appearance of your custom. I use this topcoat all the time for Gundam models, just be careful of humid days if you use it.

u/twotonkatrucks · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Hi all. I was thinking about easing my way into painting by way of brush painting details. I'm just looking for recommendation on brushes and set of paints.

In particular, I've read good reviews about the D'Artisan Shoppe's set - is it worth the price?

u/SsurebreC · 198 pointsr/pics

Your OP was so good that I thought I'd help link these:

u/helix19 · 1 pointr/mildlyinteresting

I recently bought these fine tip paintbrushes and they’re great for tiny details.

u/atlusprime · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I am by no means a tiny figure painting expert, but I primed mine and then used thinned acrylics in layers (not quite drybrushing, but not far from it either).

This brush is a godsend for pilots:

And after you finish putting on paint, use an ink wash (i used Citadel Nuln Oil) to bring out extra texture/detail!

u/tomqvaxy · 0 pointsr/AskReddit

Professional illustrator here, carry a sketchbook with you, don't sweat materials really but try a softer pencil (You will need to go to at least a Micheal's/HobbyLobby to get these.), I've always enjoyed employing a cheap watercolor set as well just rubberband that shit to your sketchbook, whenever you feel bored bust it out on the train in a waiting room etc, draw what's in front of you fast and poorly just do it, keep quick notes of things you see that you'd like to practise drawing when you have time and actually refer to it use you phone, in that same vein keep an inspiration board pinterest is cheesy but perfect for it really.

TL;DR - Practise practise practise. No shortcuts, sorry. Do it!

ETA - If the watercolor thing strikes your fancy get one of these. They're the tits for on the go.

u/Exileon · 1 pointr/mechmarket

Thanks, good tip. Was planning on getting this from amazon:

u/iSmellMusic · 1 pointr/somethingimade

I actually just got a few and I'm making a watercolor journal for my DnD character :D It's not as clean and pretty as yours though lol.

You ever think about using water brushes?

u/teivah · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

Thank you :) This

u/fishsounds · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Here is a set that looks decent enough

The numbers denote the size of the bristles, larger numbers equal larger bristles

I recommend 1 and 0 because at that size you can load a decent amount of paint on the brush and still have good control.

u/EnemyCanine · 3 pointsr/boardgames

I actually just started getting into miniature painting a few weeks ago, and went the same route as you to start out with. I have very shaky hands, and I wasn't sure if I would even be able to do it so I went cheap at first. I picked up this brush set from Amazon. Then I bought some primer from Walmart, and bought the Army Painter Zombicide paint set since I have the game and figured even if I messed them up, I cold just slap some blood on those parts and they would looks ok (which was the case for a few).
I think the Wargame one would be a good starter set as well.
The primer I picked up is cheap and works great, but it takes a while to dry. Since I started, I picked up a couple of cans of Army Painter primer and that dries in a few minutes. If you don't mind waiting a day, then just use the cheap stuff. There may be other cheap ones that dry faster, but I can't speak to those.

u/Shadow703793 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Seconding that. And get a set of micro brushes like this:

I have the 15pc version of those brushes and they help so much with trying to paint tiny parts be its model tanks or minis.

u/Yogymbro · 5 pointsr/minipainting

My wife bought me these for Christmas, and they've been great.

u/onlyhelpfulthings · 3 pointsr/UMD

And white. The white is pretty important.

OP: $12 for paint, $5 for brushes.

u/StubbsMcNolegs · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

Detail Paint Brush Set 12pc Minute Series XII Miniature Brushes for Fine Detailing & Art Painting.

If these ever come back in stock, they are really nice brushes for the money. Been using them almost exclusively recently. They get more use than my Windsor and Newton brushes.

u/LordofPizzaandStress · 1 pointr/ArtistLounge

I feel you on that, they don’t hold a lot of ink if they’re your primary tool. I believe the kuretake 40 and 50 hold a bit more, but I also used these to decent effects, because you can load them with ink and water to get various tones, I just bought bottles of various colors to get good colors.

u/LeVentNoir · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I'll save you $10 immediately: A cork, and bluetac. Now you don't need to spend 9.45 on a painting handle. You also probably don't need to be starting with wet palette. A 8 colour ink set is also probably overkill, stick to black and brown and be done with it.

And I suggest swapping your brush set to this:

4 rounds, 4 liners, 2 flats.

u/GreatHarlequin · 1 pointr/SWlegion

Don't waste money on expensive Kolinky sable brushes yet. I'd recommend Army Painter brushes and stay away from Games Workshop brushes.

u/Raught19 · 1 pointr/KingdomDeath

I have fallen in love with this brush set,

They even have air bubbles inside the handle so they float!

u/MurkMuffin · 1 pointr/minipainting


These will get you started for sure! 13 bucks (13.19 to be exact) and you'll continue to use these even after your brush collection grows.

u/bimarian · 1 pointr/AnimeFigures

They should! I've used that exact brand of white before.

You should also get a set of small tip paint brushes like these if you don't already have some.

u/redmaxwell · 2 pointsr/minipainting

My wife got me [these] ( for my birthday and I really like them. But I also use other brushes I've picked up, just general craft painting ones.

Edit: craft painting ones for painting larger areas and models.

u/aokagi · 1 pointr/infp

Those were Aquash waterbrushes by the brand Pentel :)

It works like normal brushes you use for watercolor but with little barrel inside to store water.

u/Vonderboy · 1 pointr/Gunpla

No problem. Are they a good price? They aren't anything super special just good quality brushes for a decent price. That being said, this one is literally the 3 I would suggest, if not maybe the psycho for details. And that's a really good price since they'd be at least $12 separate at my local shop.

u/ineeddis · 6 pointsr/PenmanshipPorn

Looks like this. It's a brush with a tube of water for a handle.

u/CinnaVanilla · 10 pointsr/bulletjournal

It’s called a waterbrush pen. It looks like OP used one from this set: Pentel Arts Aquash Water Brush Assorted Tips, Pack of 3

Edit: typo.

u/shth0mas · 2 pointsr/notebooks

Like this

Pentel Arts Aquash Water Brush Assorted Tips, Pack of 3 (FRHBFMBP3)

u/WilyNily · 4 pointsr/SketchDaily

I got these, which I saw being recommended on multiple places (including in the watercolors weekly discussion here by u/artomizer)

u/vektar2 · 2 pointsr/ActionFigures

Vallejo Basic USA Colors Paint Set, 17ml

Detail Paint Brush Set - 12 Miniature Brushes for Art Painting - Acrylic, Watercolor, Oil

u/Hurleyburleyalters · 1 pointr/mtgaltered

What about buying thicker handled brushes? Or putting pencil grippies on them.

Edit: Like these

u/-Skadi · 2 pointsr/Wishlist

Pentel Arts Aquash Water Brush Assorted Tips, Pack of 3

You could put just plain water, diluted watercolor paint, ink etc.. in them.

Edit: just noticed /u/Blanchetastic posted a similar item, hers cost less though.

u/eoddc5 · 1 pointr/Gloomhaven

I'll post it here, so others can see.

Paint: Miniature Painting Kit with Bonus...

Brushes: MyArtscape Detail Paint Brush Set -...

Printer: Monoprice Mini Delta 3D Printer With...

u/PersonPersona · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

Oh sorry for not being clear. I meant the brushes you linked to in your post. These guys: brushes

u/TrashQuestion · 1 pointr/HappyTrees

oh i didnt realize how fast gesso dries.

I do want to do the whole thing (with oils) i just didn't realize how expensive these four brushes were. I can't find a fan brush under 10 dollars! where is a good place to find them online. I'm trying to get everything (2 sets of the brushes, the paints, spirits, etc) for 60-90 dollars if possible.

this one keeps popping up in my searches and is super tempting but its nylon :(

u/creativelycara · 3 pointsr/bujo

Staedtler watercolor brush marker for the green color -

Pentel Waterbrush -

I used the staedtler brush marker to color on a block. I then used the water brush to pick-up the green color and paint on the paper. That's for the watercolor items. Let me know what other materials you're interested in if I missed something you needed. The leaves, days and hydrate stuff are stamps and I used the staedtler brush marker to color on the stamp for the green items. Not sure if I have links for those, but I could find some if needed.

u/HappyWulf · 2 pointsr/KingdomDeath

Here's a big fat messy shopping list I made for someone a while ago. You might find it useful too. Quickshade Ink Set Warpaints Army Painter Pacer Technology (Zap) Pacer Technology (Zap) Zap-A-Gap Adhesives, 1 oz : General Pencil Company The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 2.5 0z. : Brush Soap
Buy Army Painter Wargame Starter Paint Set - PLUS Promo Undead figure
Buy Rust Oleum 280715 American Accents Ultra Cover 2X Spray Paint, White Primer, 12-Ounce
TEKTON 6655 Needle File Set, 10-Piece
Buy Xacto X3311 N0. 1 Precision Knife With 5 No. 11 Blades 1 X Most Wanted Wargamer Brush Set
Xuron 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter: Wire Cutters 2 X Milliput Standard 2-Part Self Hardening Putty, Yellow/Grey

Edit: Of, and I used this guide for making my Thinner. But I'm going to experiment more, because this is not perfect.

u/Cyntax3rr0r · 1 pointr/minipainting

Has anyone tried this set? The price seems too low to be legit kolinsky sable brushes.

u/NarcissaMalfoy · 1 pointr/90daysgoal

Not sketching necessarily but for Christmas I got an [aquapen] ( and a [teeny tiny watercolor pad] ( I carry both in a little pouch with my teeny [tiny watercolor set] ( If I'm sitting and having coffee with someone for an extended period (like just a Sunday morning hang) I pull out the pouch. All I need is a napkin (i.e. no cup, no brush) and it's really unobtrusive. It keeps me from looking at my phone while I talk to people and relaxes me (and sometimes other people as well.)