(Part 3) Best products from r/24hoursupport

any artic silver lying around? I'd also get something like speedfan and make sure rpms good. A cooling pad might be the next purchase. I bought a Zalman for someone, it was awesome.

this one

buy a repeater for wireless

-how far away is the router/modem from your pc you want to connect, somtimes just moving the modem and thus the wifi signal will make it work.

I would move it closer/close as possible to the area your trying to cover-then make sure it is in the open. Not in a cbinet or between something. You can use the wifi tool to see the changes.

The wifi receiver on your end (PC)should also be in the open-not stuffed up against a wall.

The 5ghz channel would probably solve the issue-as thats what it does -more power. The adapter you have for the PC may not be dual channel. You can get a cheap adapter like this that does for under 20.

https://www.amazon.com/OURLINK-600Mbps-802-11ac-Wireless-10-6-10-12-4/dp/B018TX8IDA/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=H7NT6YNNA9XWZD3TNNZN

are you sure the 5ghz channel is on in the AIO?

Your phone (if moderately new) should be able to see the 5ghz channel if it is broadcasting-if the pc does not have the ability

yes I think I have the admin passwords for both. I thought I linked the one already, oops. [Here] (https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SBG7580AC-Docsis-AC1750/dp/B01KW9T39C/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1501607803&sr=8-8&keywords=arris+router+modem) is the router/modem that I was supplied and am currently using. [This] (https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-N600-Wi-Fi-Router-WNDR3400/dp/B0041LYY6K/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1501607915&sr=1-3&keywords=netgear+router) is what I think is the other router I have. I know it was a netgear from 2010 and it looks like this, so I am pretty sure this is it.

Anyways, here are two Dell forum posts about the issue (Driver related)

Post 1 (update the audio drivers):

https://www.dell.com/community/Laptops-General-Read-Only/Inspiron-15-3000-audio-jack-cant-detect-headphone/td-p/4479098

Post 2 (more driver updating):

https://www.dell.com/community/Laptops-General-Read-Only/Dell-Inspiron-15-3552-headset-port-does-not-work-properly-HELP/td-p/5122970

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If you hear an audible click or beep that is high in pitch and short in duration when you plug in the headphones that means you have an audio signal going to the headphones and everything should be fixed.

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Hardware solutions that might fix the issue.

Hardware Solution 1:

USB to 3.5 mm headphone jack | amazon <-cheap solution, but it will get the job don if the two Dell forums can't help you

Before you replace the built in headphone jack do the following:

Take apart the computer and inspect the headphone jack for any debris that might be inside and removing the debris, this will save you the need to buy a replacement part if it works.

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Hardware Solution 3 (requires taking apart computer):

https://www.parts-people.com/index.php?action=item&id=21531 <-Link to a replacement IO board that has two USB and 3.5mm headphone jack for the Dell Inspiron 15-3552.

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Here's a link to where you can find replacement parts for your laptop if the hardware goes bad:

Replacement parts for the Dell Inspiron 15-3352 | parts-people.com

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I hope these help you fix your issue.

Buy this:

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-External-Aluminum-Enclosure/dp/B00E362W9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484077336&sr=8-1&keywords=laptop+hard+drive+enclosure

and

https://www.amazon.com/Jakemy-Precision-Screwdriver-Electronics-Appliances/dp/B019ZSK57K/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1484077395&sr=8-9&keywords=screwdriver+set+small

Here is an altnerative to the case:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484077470&sr=1-7&keywords=laptop+hard+drive

In all likleyhood the hard drive has gone bad.

They do that you know.

You want a laptop 2.5 inch hard drive. SATA is really the only choice for interface these days.

Now would be a great time to move up to an SSD. I have a laptop at home that is a bunch of years old. I put an SSD in it last year and it really added a lot of zip to it.

When you put the OS on it you can go ahead and put W8.1 on it, but the Free W10 upgrade is still running if you know where to get it from:

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/accessibility/windows10upgrade

What you would do is install 8.1 from the disks you have. Get the internet up, go to the desktop, don't bother with any updates (huge waste of time if you are just gonna follow through with W10) and go to that site I posted and follow there instructions.

Bonus points! Once you successfully do a W10 upgrade from W8 there is no more Windows key to worry about! Any future OS reinstall on this laptop Microsoft uses a unique identifier in the BIOS to do the validation.

I think you'll need to use a mixer. They make tiny ones that are pretty much perfect for your use case.

This one is only 50 bucks on Amazon.

If OP wants to DIY, A cable tester is in order. Test a short length of cat5 and attach that to one of the jacks with the remote end of the tester still attached (eliminating the short wire as a problem) Check the termination in the attic.

the pinout at the jack is 'correct' B standard.

for the actual crimping, look for something less painful than the standard ends, just make sure they are compatible with your crimping tool.

if you have B in the jack, B in the attic, continuity in the wire, and working ports in the netgear, everything should work perfectly.

Here's one of the best SSDs out there, in my opinion.

And here's one of the better mechanical drives for the price, again, in my opinon.

That's an idea of the sort of prices you're looking at. There are cheaper/slower and more expensive/faster mechanical drives, and the more you get into the specifics, the more there is to know about buffer sizes and speeds and data transfer rates and whatever else, but for your application, I think this is what I'd recommend.

I guess what I needed to know was the hardware vs. software based encryption. It makes sense to me that software based stuff would need to host computer to have analogous software install to unravel it. I started searching from there and found the IronKey Basic S200 for less than $50 on Amazon. It also has some good reviews floating around on the web. I am leaning in that direction now. Thanks again!

Looks like you best option is to buy one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004G3WCLM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1454105141&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=dvi+to+vga+converter&dpPl=1&dpID=4162mF%2BzhKL&ref=plSrch

well - you can get the cable that you want

I have personally run into the HDCP issue several times. I have run into the power issue once. The HDCP issue comes up often with active converters who don't respond correctly to the HDCP requests.

Both of these issues that I described are very hardware dependent - different manufactures approach standards differently. I have seen HDCP issues where the display never came on, or would come on for 10 seconds and then shut off. Also, HDCP should only be active when you are trying to display protected content, but I have run into instances where it was active at all times.

The power issue, I ran into that with a large monitor wall solution - the company provided a computer that could drive 24 displays at once, but couldn't handle active HDMI repeaters.

I have been a television engineer for a long time - making different displays work with different sources is a lot of what I do. Personally, I would try and address the problem that the DVI to VGA is having, because that is how this is supposed to work.

Power supply tester, and if it shows good, then you pretty much know it's the motherboard.

Here's one for about $6, shipped, Prime.

Ok cool. Would something like this work as well?

Do you lose any quality using a splitter?

Thank you! What a weird thing. This thing is about the same price. Do you happen to know anything about these? Am I better off?

As a matter of fact, yes. I have one of these and it's useful in a variety of ways, like making a speaker with an aux jack wireless by using it as a receiver or making an old iPod work with a BT speaker by using it as a transmitter.

I'm surprised, this kind of issue is really rare

What I think was happening is that the power button(or reset button) is stuck, so the computer keeps trying to restart constantly


You can buy one of these: https://www.amazon.com/SoundOriginal-Desktop-Computer-Motherboard-Supply/dp/B074891DJP/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=power+button+pc&qid=1557177689&s=gateway&sr=8-3

It should do the trick! Glad you got it solved!

From your post I think you are going to get out of your league fairly quickly here. You are going to be able to set up 4 hard drives "somewhat" easily. The "somewhat" part is that you are going to have to set 2 of the drives as master and 2 as slaves. You will also have to designate them as primary or secondary depending on which IDE cable they are on.
Each hard drive has a different pin setting to set the drive as a master/slave. You will need to either look on the HD and hope that the pin settings are listed or go to the manufacturers web site to look up the model for the pin settings. As for the 5th drive you will need to install a pci ide hard drive card. You will also need to use another IDE cable.

StarTech.com 2 Port PCI IDE Controller Adapter Card PCIIDE2

As far as the RAM is concerned, no you do not need drivers for it. Once again you are going to need to make sure that the RAM you have is appropriate for the motherboard. A quick google of the serial/model number off the RAM chip should tell you what type/speed it is. Then you will need to google the motherboard serial/part# to find out what type of Ram it takes.
The ethernet card will also require a google to find the drivers.
Don't get me wrong if you are interested in learning how to custom build computers this will be a good learning exercise but be aware there are quite a few pitfalls up ahead.

So basically if you are not familiar with building pc's and discerning part #/serial#'s etc. you are going to get underwater very quickly.

tl;dr Building pc's is harder than it appears with legacy hardware.