(Part 4) Best products from r/BudgetAudiophile

Ooh yes. Finally a reason to get out of bed and go over to my computer.

How would I recommend setting up a system like this? I'll tell ya.

Amazon echo. They just the other day released what is called the Echo Input and I think it is there specifically for what you need, since you didn't specify a budget besides 'affordably priced.'

In the Amazon Alexa app, you can create what is called an "Amazon Multi-Room Music Group" which allows you to "play music and media simultaneously across multiple Alexa devices" (I put it in quotes because I read it right from the app on my phone).

So what I recommend is getting one of those for everywhere you want a pair of speakers. Next, buy this extremely high quality cable. That isn't sarcasm. That thing is great. Alright on to an amp. SMSL SA-36A will get bookshelf speakers to a good listening volume in pretty much any room. If you have a really big room, you can get a slightly more powerful one, the SMSL SA-50. I buy mine open box on ebay, but it looks like they are sold out right now. Keep an eye on that listing. I've bought from there and they go in and out of stock regularly. However, I think you would be fine without that, and the SMSL SA36A will be just fine for ya.

So, "affordably priced" speakers. Let's go.

$60 - Micca MB42. These are pretty good cheap speakers. I recommend the slight upgrade to MB42X

$80 - Micca MB42X. These are a little upgrade over the MB42s. They have a crossover that makes them sound better, and they have magnetic grills, which is pretty cool. Makes them look nicer IMO, but that doesn't particularly matter.

$130 - Fluance SX6W. These things are big. and have plenty of bass. Bigger woofer than the Miccas, so naturally they go lower.

$200 - Fluance Signature Series. If you want beautiful speakers, get these. I mean, just look at them. Wow. Anyways, they also have forward facing ports, so they'll be fine if you need to put them up against a wall.

$250 - Elac B6. They're nice speakers, and they look pretty okay as well.

$350 - Wharfdale Diamond 220. These things have it all. Great sounding, really cool covers, and are beautiful. I mean, they're stunning to listen to and to look at.

$goungAllOut - Buchardt has a really good price to performance ratio. Price is a lot though.

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Oh, and I almost forgot. If your budget is a bit higher, rather than getting the SMSL amp and that echo thingy, Amazon just came out with a BEAUTIFUL amp that works with alexa too. So there's that.

Feel free to message me or reply if you have any other questions.

Dang, I should really be an amazon associate haha.

So many points to hit on, I'll try and help with that I can. I'm in the US so I'm not really sure what the pricing and availability is in your area, so my help will be somewhat limited haha.

If you are wanting to do a 2.0 system with the option to upgrade to 5.1 in the future, much of your budget will be going towards a 5.1 receiver. The suggestions mentioned in question 1 are good suggestions, but you also need to take a look at your TV and see what audio out connections are available. Some TV's, like mine for instance, only offer an optical out for audio. If this is the case for you, then the SMSL SA-60 will not work without a DAC in between. Something like the Fiio D3 would suffice. Also, chances are if you go this route, you will lose the ability to control the volume with the TV remote. Getting something like the SMSL Q5 Pro instead might be a better option. It can accept multiple audio inputs (digital and
analog, so no need for a DAC), and also has a cheap remote for controlling volume and other stuff. You can also use the Q Acoustic Speakers with these amps as well. However, either of these amps would have to be replaced in the future if you decide to upgrade to 5.1. But they would be great for a 2.1 setup.

In the US, with that budget (300 euro = $335) and a future 5.1 in mind; I would get a Pioneer VSX-530 Receiver ($200), and the Micca MB42X Speakers ($90). Then I would start saving for a subwoofer like the Bic F12 or ML Dynamo 300 (depending on the size of the room). Once I had a sub, I would then save up for better bookshelfs (3 of them...something like empteks or elacs or who knows what), and relocate the Micca MB42X's to the rear. This would be a a respectable 5.1 setup that will blow away pretty much any home theater in a box.

Anyways, hope I was of at least some help. Best of luck with your setup!

I also have HS5's and I got the 2i2 on sale for $100. I got it mostly for the outputs for the monitors, but I felt wrong using a cheap dac with such expensive speakers. I previously had a Fiio D3 dac and used the 1/8" output to a 4 channel headphone amp, and then split one of the outputs from that to 1/4" jacks for each of the monitors. I didn't need a 4 channel amp, I just wanted a way to use headphones with separate volume control. That worked just fine honestly. Still great sound, I just like the simplicity and premium-ness of the Scarlett. Plus it's really nice to have a headphone jack on the front of the interface, where with my previous setup it was on the back of the amp. I also use an xlr mic to chat every now and then with friends when I play games, so that's nice. But that doesn't seem to apply to your situation. So if you want MUCH better quality than your motherboard's sound card, go with the Fiio and a couple adapters. It's also worth noting that the Fiio I mentioned only has optical toslink and coaxial input. If you motherboard doesn't have digital audio, you're out of luck for it. The usb on it is purely for power. But I'm sure there are nice usb dacs at a decent price too. If any of this doesn't make sense or you need more help, just let me know, I'd be happy to help or clarify! :D

Edit: also nice to see someone else on the Yamaha team. I am absolutely in love with mine. Worth every penny

Edit2: I actually use the xlr inputs on the monitors, even when I used unbalanced connections. I like how much beefier xlr connections are than 1/4". But that's purely personal preference. They worked just fine though

Last edit, I promise. I don't recommend using a super cheap dac like a $6 one. You spent $400 on monitors, get something decent or you might be wasting the potential of those monitors. The Fiio is $30, so try to aim for something around that.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3C/ref=cm_sw_r_em_awd_8KJ7wb98HJERG
And
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=cm_sw_r_em_awd_MLJ7wbBXAEYJ0

And you'll be set

I've heard of their 3020, but supposedly the Concept 20 is the same driver in a different cabinet? The What HiFi review makes it sound like the cabinet alone is worth the price difference. That could be true, but I am not going to rely on their word for it. I think it would be best if you could arrange for an audition or, better still, buy them with a good return policy so you can send them back if you are not satisfied with them. This is the most reliable way you could test out 2 speakers because you know best what is important for you. As for bass, it is also part of the music and I feel a faithful reproduction is essential to the experience. I do not own a subwoofer myself because I am satisfied with my MB Quart 490 and their 7.5" woofer. The bass is present but not overpowering at all and it makes all the difference when listening to Pink Floyd or The Coup.

Anyway, what I meant was the audio files will be converted from digital to analog at one point. In your case, it would be the PC's onboard solution. Now, depending on your PC, your onboard solution could be great or it could suck (distortion/constant hum etc.) ! To get around this some people use the digital output on their PC (USB/HDMI/Optical) and the conversion is performed using another device. Since usually stereo amplifiers do not have any way of accepting digital input, the go-to choice is a separate DAC like Fiio D03K / Behringer UCA202. Some people also a get a headphone DAC like Fiio E10K because they need a portable amp for their headphone in addition to a DAC. Others may need more than just a DAC - for example there could be a need to take the HDMI input and send the video to a TV and the audio to speakers. This is where a receiver comes in. A receiver is basically an amp + many more options for inputs, but it could be overkill if you only need a DAC. Used receivers could be cheap, though, and they are quite popular because of the input options you get. Goes without saying that you may not need a separate DAC at all, but just something to consider.

Phew! Hope that helps! :)

1. I would look at the Orb Booster $160 or the SMSL Q5 Pro because of the optical inputs (can use with a TV later on) and the remote. I also think they have tone control and a bit more power.
   
   
2. If you really want powered speakers go for it but I'm not the guy to help with that. I'm not a fan of powered speakers. Also if you go down that route you won't need the amp upgrade as they have their own amp.
   
   
3. I would consider getting an AVR if you can fit in your space. Something like this Denon S510BT refurb $180 would be a good option. Not only would you be getting more power but you would also get all the benefits of an AVR. (Better speaker control, room correction, better bass management, more inputs...)
   
   Here is a sample system that I would look at
   
   AVR/Amp - I've already linked some options for you to look at.
   
   Sub - I would honestly keep what you have but get the sub cable that I linked above.
   
   Speakers - Here is where it gets fun. Lets say you spent $150-200 on an AVR/amp you'll have about $300 to play with. Lets look at some speakers in that range.
   
   

• Boston Acoustics A26 $120 ea - I think these are on sale so think quick This is a good price for the A series
  
  
• Boston Acoustics CS260 $160 ea - Towers that are in your budget. If you have space consider these.
  
  
• Polk RTi A1 $205 - The RTi's were decent Polk offerings
  
  
• Polk S20 $300 - New line they sounded decent in the store. Worth a look
  
  
• Cambridge Aero 2 $220 or SX60 $230 - These are on sale currently
  
  
• RBH R5Bi $225 - great sounding books at a reasonable price.
  
  
• Affordable Accuracy monitors $210+SH - another internet direct company with really good books at a fair price.
  
  If you don't have stands consider getting a pair. Having speakers at the right height will really help out the sound. Also getting them further apart can really help out too. stands help you accomplish this.

Thank you all for your detailed responses.

I ended up getting the LSR 305's from a local store with a good return policy. One of the employees took me into a closed test room where the 305 sounded much better. I really liked the ADAM F7 but for the price I couldn't justify over the 305.

During the testing I was able to turn on some subs with the speakers. For some reason the JBL 310s was barely kicking, a lot of times even sounded off if u weren't next to it. I was sure it was a setting/cable issue but the guy tried everything and it didn't improve. Now, the Person T10 on the other hand, boy do those babies kick out a nice clean punch. I had never heard of that brand before but I really enjoyed them.

No money to buy a good sub setup yet so I'm holding off. With that said I was pleasantly surprised with the nice clean kick the 305s offered in my room. It went from feeling non existent at Guitar Center to small but nice tight kicks in my room.

My problem; I have these hooked up with a 3.5mm TRS to 1/4 TS 10ft cable. The source is my Sound Blaster Zx. I'm getting a normal quiet hum when speakers are not plugged into the Sound Blaster which is fine, mostly only noticeable if I put my ears near the speaker. Now when I plug them into the Sound Blaster I get a very loud hum/static sound and when I move my mouse it whines. When playing a game this gets even worse.

My temporary fix; Put the volume knob on the back of the speakers to 4 instead of maxed at 10. This makes it to where the noises are nearly inaudible. But by doing this it also makes it to where volume isn't nearly loud enough for music (Windows Volume 100%) and just loud enough for other things.

My research; Many other people have experienced the same issue. Trying other cables, moving speakers/computer to other wall outlets hasn't worked for most people. What seems to have worked for most is either buying a FIIO D3 digital to analog convertor https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473797050&sr=8-1&keywords=fiio+d3 or using a Ground Loop Isolator https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-System-Stereo/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473797119&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ground+loop+isolator&psc=1.

Any other suggestions that doesn't require purchasing extra stuff from amazon or at least finding these items locally in South Florida would be welcomed.

My question; I've heard that "Balanced" cables may help solve this issue. Forgive my ignorance but It is my understanding that the cable I bought is Balanced on the 3.5mm connector but unbalanced on the 1/4" side. Does a cable exist that is Balanced 3.5mm to dual Balanced 1/4" connectors? I haven't been able to find any, guessing it has to do with the cable splitting. What about going with 3.5mm to XLR, would that help?

My listening experience so far; I've only tried out YouTube music which since I'm a pretty casual audio listener is normally my main source of music. They sound much different than what I'm used to. I spent hours playing around with my Sound Blaster EQ and even went as far as going -2 on the LFT and +2 on the HFT on the back of the speakers.

I kept trying to get women vocals to be high enough to reproduce the hairs on my arms standing up feeling I have gotten so many times in the past when they hit that high note. Particularly when this girl hits the "rolling in the DEE-EEEE-P" part of her song https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7UFm6ErMPU. No matter what I did I was not able to reproduce it. It feels like I cant get where I need to be without upping the higher frequencies and lowering the others. This does seem to get me closer to where I want to be but before I can hit the sweet spot the song starts to sound off.

With that said, I can definitely tell that these speakers are producing a much more quality sound than what I'm used to in the past. Although I'm unsure as of yet if that is translating into a more fun listening experience. Also for the first time ever my hearing is feeling very fatigued and somewhat muffled. I'm guessing its from all the tuning and listening I have been doing but at the same time it is very odd because I have not put the volume higher than what I've been accustomed to in the past.

Watching Twitch.tv;

Not sure if at this point it was due to my hearing fatigue but It felt different listening to these people talk. Like I had to pay closer attention to what they were saying or it would sound mubled/muffled. One guy I had never heard before sounded like he had too much bass to his voice to where it became muffled. Normally I'd chalk that up to a bad Microphone but b/c thousands of other viewers weren't mentioning it. I'm guessing it was on my side

Round up with very limited listening time;

Bass: Was expecting next to none. Pleasantly surprised.

High pitched vocal: Not hitting where I normally get goosebumps.

Overall listening: Sounds very quality but not yet sure I'm enjoying it as much.

Problem: Caused hearing to fatigue and sound muffled with very limited listening time and not very high volume.

Thanks for reading.

First step: have you read noaudiophile's reviews? He does very thorough reviews on a lot of budget speakers, and has corrections for many of the popular options. His corrections for the Infinity P163s that I'm currently using made them sound like completely different speakers.

First let's start with powered options:

The Micca PB42X would be a good option. They are basically a powered version of the MB42X so you don't need to purchase a separate amp. Also in the similar realm that get recommended here a lot would be the Swans D1010 and the Edifier R1280T.

Personally I'm a bigger fan of passive speakers, as you get a lot more options to expand your system.

Pioneer BS22 bookshelf speakers are great and have gone on sale quite a bit lately for $70-80/pair.

Dayton B652 I am currently using as my surround speakers, but people rave about them as a budget desktop option

Micca MB42X also get great reviews.

You could also go used for your speakers, but sometimes it can be hard to parse through all the junk out there if you don't know what you're looking for.

Take any of those passive options and pair them up with an inexpensive amp like this SMSL or Lepai for a good budget setup.

I would also recommend checking your local Craigslist or Facebook marketplace for a used receiver, you could pick up a very decent one for just a few bucks and have a great starting setup. This will give you a lot more powerful amp, and the ability later to easily add a subwoofer or expand to surround sound. Personally I'm using an older Sony home theater receiver at my desk, it's old enough that it doesn't have HDMI or optical inputs, someone was just giving it away so I snagged it.

the dayton sub has the "high level outputs" so you dont have to worry about a sub out on the dac/amp. you would just run the speaker wire from amp to the sub inputs, then another set of speaker wire from the sub output to the left and right speakers.

http://www.daytonaudio.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/800x800/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/u/sub-1000_photo_3_2.jpg

the audio engine b1 isnt what you need or want though, all that does is capture a digital data signal you are streaming via bluetooth and then send that digital signal to a dac/amp that would then convert and send it as an analog signal to your speakers. meaning it doesnt actually output any signal your speakers would recognize so you would still need a dac/amp to take that digital signal you streamed and turn it into an analog signal that would then run through speaker wires to your speakers. the b1 is basically a very expensive rca cable replacement that lets you go wireless.

what you want/need is more like this guy that does everything you ask for. it is currently at $230 but if 2 more people go in on the deal it will go down to $200 (if youre not familiar with massdrop they do group buys that can lead to some nice discounts on things). the downside to massdrop is shipping can suck if you live outside of the US and some things take a while to ship out, but you could get the thing for $200 when its $300 on amazon, which is a good savings.

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/ai-101da-integrated-amplifier-with-usb-dac?mode=guest_open


this would also do what you need and ticks all your boxes including price as it is only $145.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073F8Z565/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_2_w


this is a bit cheaper at $117 but lacks bluetooth
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Q5-Pro-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B017W12UCU/ref=sr_1_28


in my opinion the TEAC would be the best, as TEAC gear is very well built. my dac is the TEAC ud 501 and its a beast. i havent owned any SMSL gear but it does tend to get pretty good reviews and is recommended a lot. also, all 3 above have sub output so you dont need to worry about routing speaker wire through the sub, but the option would be there still of course.


that make sense? you just need to be mindful of digital signals vs analog signals. think of it as digital signals are just 1s and 0s that a computer reads and analog signals are the music that speakers can "read". digital signals run through rca cables, over bluetooth or optical cables and many other types where as analog signals run through plain ole speaker wire. with computer audio you will always need your source or output, aka the computer, that then sends to a dac (digital to analog converter) that does the converting, then that converted signal goes to an amp, then the amp to the speakers. your computer also has a built in dac on the motherboard but those usually arent very good, which is why a standalone dac is nearly always better. dacs and amps can also be totally separate pieces, but that usually runs the cost up and adds more complexity. honestly the whole thing gets fairly complex and can be super confusing with so many options! it is really easy to get deep into the weeds and spend a ton of money.

At the bare minimum include the following things if you want help and/or advice choosing or setting up amplifiers, speakers, DACS, etc

• Budget: a little more or less than 100 u$s? I'm not sure
  
• Country: Argentina. If the product cost more than 50$, I have to pay 50% of the excedent as taxes
  
• I can buy from: Any amazon, b&h, I think almost everywhere
  
• Use: Audioslave, RHCP, Rock in general, series,
  
• Where: A desk in a Room
  
• Space: 3.67m x 3.88m, NOT really loud, I will be most of the time 1.5m away from the speakers and occasionally on my bed, or taking a bath or cooking in the next room.
  
  Optional but also helpful
  
  
• Powered, passive, or no preference: no preference, I've heard you can get a better quality with the same budget with passive speakers.
  
• Any size limitations for either speaker or amp: no
  
• To upgrade later?: not really
  
• Pref certain way of sounding (Bright/forward, smooth/laid back, neutral, etc): that immersive experience (everyone here would call it the commercial one?) but I'm not sure, I don't have any speaker to listen and compare.., I only have a HyperX Cloud 1 headsets and I won't be downloading FLAC at least for the moment, I only listen from Spotify (music) or Bluray (series and movies) most part of the time
  
  I've made my search but I have no idea about this so... I need speakers for the pc on the desk in my room. Mostly for series, music, games. I will not update the system soon after this purchase and I don't have anything right now besides my current headphones.
  
  I'm from Argentina so I have 2 disadvantages: I have absolutely no idea what I'm buying because there are no places near me to try any of these speakers. For every purchase, if I spend more than 50$ I will have to pay 50% of the excedent. That means, I can buy an amp of 30$ without paying taxes or if it exists the possibility to buy a pair of headphones by separate (1 and 1 making a pair) I will probably not pay taxes... Are there places willing to do that?
  
  This is my room: https://imgur.com/a6UVKYU
  
  Questions:
  
  - What would you recommend and why?
  
  - My motherboard doesn't have bluetooth. I want to connect my pc the 99% of the time and maybe my phone 4-5mts away. What is my best option?
  
  - I think I can buy from any amazon. I've found better prices for some of the products there. Editing..
  
  Active:
  
  Edifier R1280T 156$ - £89.99
  
  Edifier R980T 115$ - £59.99
  
  Swan Speakers - D1010-IVB (unavailable? the 2nd best option?)
  
  Passive:
  
  Micca PB42 60$
  
  Micca PB42X 110$
  
  Pioneer SP-BS22-LR 93$ (the best ones? 1st best option?)
  
  Dayton Audio B652 28$
  
  Dayton Audio B652-AIR 45$
  
  Amp:
  
  Lepy LP-2020A Class-D 23$ (I want to connect my phone occasionally without disconnecting my pc, should I get a bluetooth or wifi amp?)
  
  ​
  
  ps: sorry for the long post and thanks in advance

Yep. Which is why they are mostly used in a desk setup. The smsl Q5 (only 50 watts) has a remote, but for $140 I would just look for a receiver. Many more options like digital connections and room correction software. Upgrading to a receiver was the best audio upgrade I've done. Hardcore audiophiles might scoff at receivers for no good reason, but for someone starting out, they are awesome.

I scored a refurbished yamaha 375 for like $130 on amazon. Crazy good deal. The 377 is $170 from amazon warehouse.

The yamaha stereo receiver is also another option with a remote at just $150. Two pairs of 2 channel. Also much easier to connect a sub to a receiver than a 2 channel amp.

Hit up accessories4less for other refurb deals too. Yamaha, denon, onkyo are what I would look out for. Usually good amazon deals on those too.

Even though the speaker says 40hz - 20,000 or whatever it’s not gonna play the 40-80-100 hz like a sub will. Varies with each brand or series of speaker you have to look at the graphs on the speakers to see where it starts dropping off and A sub would be better.
With AV receiver or a fancier 2 channel once you have a sub you can set the speakers to play at 100 Hz and and up etc. and the sub handle everything 100 hz and below and generally the speaker sounds better when not trying to do the low frequencies. So adding a sub and doing your adjustments in the settings in the receiver can make your regular speaker sound better and the sub produce the low frequencies better than the speakers were.

Edit : I think it was Jamo that has sub amp issues not Fluance .?

The better more expensive subwoofers will have a flatter frequency response - Playing all the subwoofer frequencies better than a cheaper sub. cheaper subs generally have a range of frequency - say 50-70 hz -it plays better so that it’s louder at those frequencies and therefore boomy.

Watch this video and see the graphs and explanation.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q5itOydYkEw&t=588s

Budget Choice -Dayton sub 1000/1200

https://www.amazon.ca/Dayton-Audio-SUB-1200-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B00669L3HS

I run Micca MS10 subs - about same as the Dayton’s - maybe Slightly Better Quality

Some Better Budget choices are Refurbished Infinity R10/R12, BIC F12, BIC PL-200

https://www.amazon.ca/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M

Klipsch sub I see mixed reviews - Decent But Lil Overpriced as you can’t get Better for same price or just a little more like the following

Better Choices a lil more $ - SVS, HSU, RSL

https://www.amazon.ca/SVS-PB-1000-Subwoofers-Black-Ash/dp/B00K88UMPW

Hey SoVerySick314159, I can't attest to any headphone amps under $50 as I have never owned any at that price point. Just about any amp should power your headphones as they are very low ohm, but I am not sure which amp would be best to prevent the sound attenuation problems you are having.

Just two months ago I received my very first headphone amp in the form of the Micca Origen G2 USB DAC/Headphone Amp combo from Amazon for $110. It is excellent. It has a great quality DAC, it can handle headphones with very large ohm requirements, it has a gain switch, and it can change between powered speakers and headphones with the flip of a switch and no unplugging of sources. It is powered by USB, but can also be powered by a 5V power adapter that you would have to purchase separately. I know it's out of your budget, but check it out.

Also, go to the r/Zeos guide HERE for great options for DAC's and heaphone amps for different price ranges. The post is about a year old, but the options there are still valid. Zeos also has some great videos on speakers, headphones, amps and the like on this channel HERE and also has one on that Micca Amp above.

I just purchased speakers for my computer desktop last week, and researched extensively. What I learned was that many of the popular recommendations are physically too large for my considerations. The popular Elac speakers for example look fairly ridiculous to me when placed next to a computer monitor. I was looking for smaller.

I ended up buying Vanatoo Transparent Zeros for $360 (exactly $360 -- no tax and free shipping). They are powered, and have all the necessary inputs to connect directly from a computer via USB, optical, or RCA. They also support Bluetooth with aptX, which is convenient when I want to play music from my phone. The sound quality is great thanks to its 1" tweeter and 4" woofer, which at this price point or under is typically smaller among its competition. It has precise hitting bass from its passive radiator design, another feature that you rarely see at this price point. Finally, they are pretty small compared to the majority of speakers at 4.75″W x 7.5″H x 7.75″D.

A text review of T0.

A video review.

To answer your questions:

• The benefits of a powered speaker are saving desk space because you won't need a separate amp, and less wires. The disadvantage is the flexibility of upgrading in the future -- if you had an amp and speakers, you could upgrade to better speakers in the future and continue using that amp.
  
  
• Bluetooth does have a small hit on sound quality. A technology called aptX has better sound quality with Bluetooth, and some Android phones have this feature.
  
  If I were to get a passive speakers, my budget amp of choice would be the SMSL AD18 for $145, which is a much smaller footprint than the commonly recommended Denon S530BT or S540BT, which at 17" wide and 13" deep, is more fitting for a home theater setup than my desktop.

Just start with 3.0. You can add the rest later. Some say 2.1, but there is often only 1 matching center speaker to the mains so I say get all 3 front speakers at the same time or the center soon after. There are many subwoofer options available from many brands to get later.

$140 refurbished is not expensive for an AV receiver, that is a great price to get started with. What is your budget? You were looking at $300 Logitech and $350 Homepod, no?

It is worth it to get a refurbished $140 AV receiver for the latest 4k HDMI 2.0 HDCP 2.2 video compatibility.

You should test all used equipment before you buy it. That means asking the seller if it is hooked up for a demo or bringing your own speakers, wire and video source.

If you go used under $100 look for HDMI 1.4 for HD 1080 video with ARC. There is also the option of using the optical output from the TV for your audio into the optical input on the receiver.

Budget Speakers:

Polk clearance: Dual 5.25" mid-bass driver Polk Audio Monitor 40 Series $100 with the dual 5.25" Polk Audio Monitor CS1 center $80.

Sony SSCS5 $75 with the smaller 4" Sony SSCS8 $75 center.

Low budget: Polk T15 $50 with Polk T30 $65.

Low Budget Subwoofers:

Dayton Sub1200 $128, Dayton Audio SUB-1500 $178, either with $10 off coupon.

-Or with a larger budget-

Better Speakers: AverageJoe's Speaker Recs, r/HTBuyingGuide Speaker Recs

HTD Level Three or Two Bookshelf Speakers and Center

Internet Manufacturer Direct for a good bang for the buck with 30 day in home trials so you can demo 2 or 3.

Ascend CBM-170 $300 + $30 shipping. CMT-340 center $300. Factory direct from currently on fire California. 30 day in home trials. Neutral sound with a flat frequency response. Best budget audiophile and home theater speakers I have found and own for under $500. SEAS of Norway tweeters, custom mid-bass drivers, double layer crossover network. Great highs, mids and lows. Nothing missing, nothing overly accentuated.

On sale: 3x Wavecrest Audio HVL-1, order on sale here at Ascend $80 each + shipping. A "budget Ascend". To me, comparable to the popular KEF Q100 when they were on clearance.

Better Subwoofers:

Bic-Acoustech-PL-200 $300.

Better 10": Open box SVS PB1000 $420 shipped. 10" HSU VTF-1 MK3 $455 shipped and may go on sale again for $30 less.

Best 12" for under $600: HSU VTF-2 MK5 $580 shipped on sale.

Speaker Stands: Audio Advisor.

Speaker wire, stands, placement:

Speaker wire and self adjusting wire strippers or basic.

Speaker Stands: Audio Advisor.

Speaker Placement: Stereo Music Listening (mains) and Home Theater.

TL:DR - I think that list looks good, maybe consider a vintage receiver. I hope this is helpful.

Most people around here are probably more knowledgable than I am, but I thought I'd chime in because I was looking at doing the same thing a few months ago. I looked at everything on that list when I was shopping around and they all seem like good options. I ended up buying

Audio-Technica AT-LP120 It was on sale for closer to $200 at the time, but it's about as much as a u-turn. I've been super happy with it and the wirecutter gave it a great review.

I ended up going maybe a bit overboard with my speakers and got KEF Q150's. I'm really pleased with how they sound, and they are a massive upgrade from my cheap old bookshelf speakers, but I think I would have been totally fine with the Q Acoustics, which were my second pick.

My main regret was that I bought a Sony STRDH190. It didn't sound bad or anything, but I just didn't really love the sound, and I felt it looked kind of ugly. I ended up going down the vintage receiver rabbit hole and bought a Sansui 4000. I love how it sounds, and I was able to pick one up for $150 on ebay after waiting a bit for a good option. I spent another $80 bucks getting it serviced. A warning: This is a slippery slope. I now have 2 Sansui receivers, a Kenwoood amp, the original Sony I bought, and one disgruntled girlfriend all living in a 2 bedroom apartment.

The drawback of a vintage receiver is the lack of bluetooth playing your Spotify playists. I bought a Chromecast Audio to handle that. I use Google Play music, but I think it integrates with Spotify as well.

​

​

To build a system using the minimum recommendations from this sub, let's start with this diagram: http://i.imgur.com/Z8FMJ.png
DAC is optional, so is a subwoofer but I recommend one.

DAC: Behringer UCA202 $29.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B000KW2YEI

Amplifier: SMSL SA-50 $68.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B00F0H8TOC

Subwoofer: Dayton Audio SUB-800 $99.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B0063NU30K

Bookshelf Speakers: Micca MB42X $89.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B00E7H8GG2

Wire: 16-gauge Speaker Wire $8.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B006LW0WDQ

With DAC, this cable: Stereo Male to 2 RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B00I0HPK6O

Without DAC, this cable: Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B0094A1F3S

This is a great starter system, I would have loved to had something like this starting out.
All of these pieces can be upgraded, do your research. Look for sales etc. Good luck and have fun.

Despite the fact that both speakers seem to be a similar price, the Inclines will considerably cheaper and closer to your budget once you account for cables and a subwoofer (provided you actually need one).

Regardless of what you buy, I suggest first trying the speakers without a subwoofer to hear whether you actually miss the last bit of low frequency sound. Both of my suggestions produce fairly low bass, JBL 305 rated at 43 Hz +/- 3 db and who knows about the Inclines as Def Tech doesn't report frequency response using the standard +/- 3 db (most likely they reach somewhere in the 50s?).

For the 305s, you are less likely to need a sub. Also, connecting a sub to the monitors can be complicated and will depend upon your overall setup. A related issue is whether you will be using an external digital-to-analog converter (DAC) - I recommend you do so for the improved sound quality and that you get one with a volume control. I think the best value approach is buy a pro audio interface - these have a DAC, volume control, and the types of cable connections that would facilitate mating your monitors and sub, plus other features that are used by recording musicians. I have the Steinberg UR22 (paid about $115 shipped new off ebay) but you can do fine with cheaper options: Lexicon Alpha has been recommended https://www.amazon.com/Lexicon-2-Channel-Desktop-Recording-Studio/dp/B000HVXMNE/ref=sr_1_6?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1472738288&sr=1-6&keywords=audio+interface or the Behringer UCA202 https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1472738288&sr=1-5&keywords=audio+interface

I went ahead and got the matching JBL LSR310S, but it is expensive ($400 usually but I got mine new on ebay for $279). It was worth it to me as I work from home and listen to some electronic music. Here are ebay listings now: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=jbl+lsr310s&_sop=15 Monoprice has a studio sub at $220 that would work (http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=115&cp_id=11504&cs_id=1150401&p_id=605999&seq=1&format=2 For cable connections it will depend on what audio interface you get (suggest you buy cables from Monoprice for their support - don't bother with Guitar Center or similar places as their cable prices are very high), however, I think you need the following: for the Behringer you have to use unbalanced connections, qty 4 TRS male x RCA male cables, a) connect the interface to your computer with the supplied USB cable, b) then connect the interface input to the sub input using two (left & right) male TRS x RCA cables, and c) then two more male TRS x RCA (one each, L&R) from the sub output to the 305s input. For the Lexicon Alpha, you would connect in a similar manner but can use balanced connections, total of 4 male TRS x male TRS.

For the Inclines and in considering your initial budget goal, you could go with any of the budget subs. My son has the Dayton SUB-800 http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-800-8-80-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-627 ($99 - $5 Labor Day coupon + $6.95 shipping). I'd spend another $20 and get the Dayton SUB-1000 because it supposedly goes down to 30 Hz http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1000-10-100-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-628 You would need a subwoofer cable for the connection, such as https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1472740255&sr=8-3&keywords=subwoofer+cable

As I mentioned before, one the nice things about the Incline is that it has a built-in DAC; however, the "manual" isn't very helpful - this review does a good job of explaining the source input hierarchy and how to engage the DAC (there isn't an input selection switch so you have to unplug cables to make sure the DAC overrides your computer onboard sound card - in any case, use the USB input or optical for DAC): http://www.audioholics.com/computer-speaker-reviews/definitive-technology-incline-desktop-speakers-review

Yeah for $190 that sounded like a good L/R/C set and I would have decent resale value.

Moved the Miccas back to my computer. I left my old monoprice 10565 surrounds up just cause they are small, easy to drive and have decent mids. Might switch to Micca covo-s just so i can put my monoprice 10565 surround set up for sale. I was tempted to keep the set since they are such good affordable speakers but honestly if I ever need speakers for a guest room or something i'll probably just get a good 2.0 or 2.1 instead.

I like having surrounds a foot above listening position, so 40-45 inches and don't want to drill walls cause I am renting so didn't have a convenient way to use Miccas as surrounds. So need something that can work with my current speaker stands (which the covo-s do) or might mod these to make them more stable and allow me to put larger surrounds like the Pioneer bookshelfs.

K, the origen g2 and the schiit fulla 2 are both dac/amp combo units. They take a usb input (audio from your PC) and run it through their circuitry. The end result is audio that's clean and distortion free. There's a TON more to it than that, but that's basically what they do. Think of them as external usb soundcards, but very high quality.

They also function as headphones amps; both are excellent at that. With the fulla 2, I couldn't move the volume past 2pm with my dt770s or it would start to hurt my ears/head.

One feature I like on the origen g2 over the fulla 2 is the optical input. Once the g2 comes back in stock I'll be getting one and "downgrading" from my magni/modi stack. I just prefer the compact nature of the g2, and the fact that no power brick is necessary.

The DT770 Pro 80 Ohm are amazing. They're closed back, but I prefer closed for less noise/sound leakage. I've tried a few sets of cans and liked these the best. Very wide soundstage for closed headphones. They've been dropping to $148 pretty often, so watch the price.

I'm going to apologize in advance if this isn't exactly in your budget/wheelhouse, but for some excellent and affordable speakers, I recommend Miccas. They sound amazing for their price tag. Your best bet is to pair it with also one of their USB DAC's it might take a little extra set up, but they're very worth it.

1. Maybe I misunderstood you (or I wasn't clear); the effect I desire, is that there is one place I raise/lower volume (be it a knob or a remote control), which causes the volume of both the bookshelf speakers and the sub to be raised/lowered accordingly.
   
   
2. @ better to manage bass w/ receiver: Even if the sub is powered? OK, good to know.
   
3. That is a good suggestion; thanks.
   
4. OK; I'll check out used towers; if I find them dirt-cheap, I'll grab them instead of doing a bookshelf+sub combo. And that 100Hz bit is great piece of info; thanks for that.
   
5. I'm finding it difficult to find used receivers / preamps that have TOSLINK / SPDIF input (the manufacturers only advertise their newest products); is there a convenient list of products-by-manufacturer somewhere I can browse to find a receiver / preamp that is new enough to have this?
   
   Assuming I find no cheap used amps that fit the bill, would these do the job? (or are they too weak?)
   
   

• SMSL Q5 Pro
  
• FXAudio D802

From what I can tell, you have an Apple Music subscription, which is the only streaming service that allows you to play music using Siri. In that case, you can buy a Bluetooth receiver, such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008AGQMQC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Kgo5AbBDF24K8

A lot of these seem to be made with batteries so they can work in cars, but I see no issue with just leaving it plugged into the charger.

Chromecast audio does not appear to have Bluetooth from what I can tell (although I don't own one, so if someone can say otherwise, please do.)

You could also do what I did and hook up an Amazon Echo Dot to your speakers. You won't be able to use Alexa to control Apple Music, but you can say "Alexa, connect my phone" and then play it over Bluetooth. I bought a used one with zero scratches or anything like that for $30 and I couldn't be happier.

You'll also probably need a 3.5mm to RCA adapter, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Fmo5AbMYS6FKM

Hope this helps, just reply if you have any questions. :)

Edit: also I just noticed the thing in your post about the Charge 3, I have a UE Boom and it wouldn't let me do something like that, so I doubt the charge 3 would either.

https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-R-S202BL-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B01EMQI2CU nice, I cant wait to get a reslly nice pair. Gonna put $200-300 in and see how it sounds. These super cheap entry level ones I got sound awesome haha, check my recent post Im in my hunt trying to get best sound setup.

Here are ny shitty speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N8265I8/?coliid=I22UAKVWQSK1N7&colid=4CPRNO6Q8AA7&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it still sound great compared to tv

I'm not sure if $100 is a hard cap, but you might consider the SMSL Q5 Pro if you can stretch it to $139 and are looking to buy something new rather than going with a used product. It has an optical connection, a remote, and should definitely be able to power those Daytons. It doesn't have a ton of inputs and you'd have to wire the sub in line from the speaker outs, but it checks all of your stated boxes. If you're looking for a full-blown AVR with multiple inputs and a sub pre-out, the Onkyo TX-8020 is a great bet for $149. All that said, used is definitely your best option if you're really trying to keep this below $100.

At that price the best thing out there right now is the Swan D-1010. You can find an objective review with measurements here

If you intend to actually get into music production, it would be in your best interest to save up double your budget and pick up a used/refurbished/open-box pair of JBL LSR305 powered monitors. These measure impressively well and can't really be touched for the money.

If you have access to a Frys in the USA, this is probably the best you can do for a new system:


Pioneer BS22 x2 pair (they go on sale each month for $68 a pair)

http://www.frys.com/product/7327224


Pioneer Pioneer SP-C22 (on sale at AMAZON for $80)

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-C22-Designed-Channel-Speaker/dp/B008NCD2EI


SVS PB10 $500 (OR grab one from HSU, Rythmik, Outlaw, etc)

https://www.svsound.com/products/pb-1000


Frys also sells a Klipsch 15" powered subwoofer for around $400 when on sale.
Hint: If you have the room, and patience for the next Frys sale, that 15" Klipsch is probably the best bang for the buck HT sub around.


That leaves 250+ for a receiver, depending on the sub you choose. Accessories4less, Frys sales, Bestbuy sales all have good to great deals on receivers if you have time to wait for a sale.

At your price point, you should be looking at active speakers, since getting an amp/DAC for passive speakers (realistically just an amp while using the built-in DAC on your PC's motherboard) jacks up the price a ton when you're talking low budgets. The HiVi Swan D1010IV's are going for $69 (huehuehue) at Chane Music & Cinema and at Amazon from the same seller. The usual price is $120-$150, this is a pretty huge price cut. NoAudiophile did a review on them, they're pretty damn good speakers with excellent bang-for-buck even at the normal price tag, and are the best speakers in the $100-$150 price bracket in the first place - at this discount they're almost a no-brainer.

EDIT: Oh yeah, and they're active, so you don't need a separate amp. :P

Upgrading the Modi wouldn't, but upgrading the Magni would - the Magni 2 Uber has a pre-amp output.
Essentially this just passes the input from your Modi through the Magni's volume control without amplifying it, when there's no headphones connected. With headphones connected of course, the input is amplified and sent to them. Again, the pre-out is RCA so the same cables as above if you chose that. Bear in mind this only works with either speakers or headphones at once, if you want to output to both at once you'd want a simple RCA splitter.

Again, neither is necessary since the Windows volume control is an option, but it's much easier.

RE speaker stands: Mostly comes down to preference and their looks. These are inexpensive and should fit / be strong enough for the LSR308.

Component order should look like this:

Computer -> Modi -> Sys -> Speakers OR Magni
Optional Second Source ^

If you're regularly swapping between the two, you could connect both at once using a splitter or switch box. Otherwise, those cables look good.

I would strongly recommend the KEF Q150s (speakers)
You could start with a stereo setup and upgrade over time when you appreciate and understand better.

You wouldn’t need a subwoofer because these speakers can go really low.

I would suggest getting a used Yamaha AVR in the $70-100 range or better yet a NAD C316BEE. You could get a cheap $15 TOSLINK DAC from amazon if you want to connect the speakers to the TV.

But if you are not comfortable buying used, Cambridge audio Topaz AM10 is on amazon sale for $199

Links:
Speakers

https://www.amazon.com/KEF-Q150-Bookshelf-Speakers-Black/dp/B071P6KQZX/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=kef+q150&qid=1565306273&s=gateway&sprefix=kef+q&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

Stereo amplifier

https://www.amazon.com/Cambridge-Audio-Topaz-AM10-Integrated/dp/B00803GSBO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=cambridge+audio+topaz&qid=1565306341&s=gateway&sr=8-3


DAC

https://www.amazon.com/Neoteck-Converter-Digital-Coaxial-Toslink/dp/B01N07LYON/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=toslink+neotek&qid=1565306409&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Edit:
Please get speaker stands to do justice to your ears and the speakers

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007P8DKDE/?coliid=I2B9E5FFVQLHR1&colid=2LH7I4PVTPHWZ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Looks like they went up in price.

They're $50 now, here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VRREPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_O1hJBb076TVVE

They are nice because you can tilt them downwards to get a better listening angle. I have a solid wood desk so make sure your desk can handle the weight since you're already running 3 monitors.

They sit on the table but the feet are very sturdy and I bump into my desk occasionally and they have yet to fall.

I also have the subwoofer you're talking about, it's pretty good for the price. I got it for $80 when they were running a deal a while back. It bumps pretty loudly.

I suspect that you wouldn't notice a significant upgrade in sound. I'd upgrade your amp to a better one.

Edit:

If you are looking for better, louder, cleaner sound, and are looking to spend about $150 to do it (price of the Edifiers), then consider replacing your class D mini-amp with this Pioneer stereo receiver. Its class A/B amplification, and will provide a lot more clean power for your speakers. It also makes future upgrades easier, as it has a sub out on the rear.

Oh, and most important for you, it has bluetooth.

EDIT

I cannot confirm that it is class A/B. It might be Class D. This isn't the worst thing in the world... it might still be better than than miniamps... but it might not be, too. It does give you a few more connectivity options and does have bluetooth, but it might not be the best bang for the buck.

If it is class D, hopefully it's a better class D amp. It should be better than the Kintner, I'd think, though.

I currently have the Kef Q100's and just upgraded from the Onkyo TX-8220 (very similar to the 8020). I also have a Pro-Ject Debut Carbon turntable, and was very happy with the combo at the price. If you have a smaller listening space, I would stick with the 100s and save the extra money for a turntable and potential external preamp down the road (the internal preamp of the 8020 is serviceable, but you could do better at around $89 with the U-Turn Pluto).

As Armsc mentioned above, you'll be limited to just analog inputs on the 8020, but you can also pick up an external DAC down the road if you need optical or coax. All in all, I think you'll be very happy with your upgrade. Enjoy!

A subwoofer "under 25cm tall" will be a pretty wimpy subwoofer. Any reason you can't find another spot for the sub? I'm not sure you can easily find even an 8" driver subwoofer that will fit that requirement. And best to shoot for a high output 10" if not a 12" sub for a home theater setup.

But also a good idea to hold off for a bit so you can afford a good sub. This SVS PB-1000 would be an excellent choice for $500: https://www.amazon.com/SVS-PB-1000-Subwoofer-Black-Ash/dp/B00K88UMPW/

> I got the ABH4000 and 4 AB1 amplifier module keyboards for $200 off kijiji.

ah, that's a much better cost equation.

there's nothing wrong with the ABH, just at that price i would expect it to have optical inputs. RCA inputs will be fine for the distance you're looking at, just be sure to get good cables so they'll be nicely made and properly shielded.

> Thanks for clarifying the zone 2 speakers. So that would not be a receiver output option.

looks like you've got two "zone 2" ouputs on that amp. the big red and black screw down terminals are definitely powered speaker outputs. but there's also a pair of RCA "zone 2" outputs. those you would use to send signal to the ABH4000.

i'm not sure if you would be able to select a different source for simultaneous playback, but it's possible.

>If there is an optical output on my receiver, sorry haven’t checked yet and I’m just heading out, could I use an optical output to RCA adapter in theory?

there is, but you're talking about a DAC ( https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ ) probably not going to offer you much advantage over the RCA. something to keep in mind if you find that you hear signal distortion or noise from the long RCA run.

-

your setup looks fine to me, since you're not paying through the nose for Harmon Kardon :)

This woud be a pretty nice setup for $360:

• Behringer U-Control UCA202 $30
  
• Swan Speakers - M50W 2.1 System $280
  
• Audio-Technica ATH-M20x headphones $50
  
  The Behringer U-Control is a good DAC that you can connect your active 2.1 loudspeakers to. It has a headphone output that is powerful enough medium impedance headphones like the ATH-M20x. The majority of the budget goes where it matters most (the speakers) and you don't pay a lot of money on features you don't need.

Are you looking for an audio interface or dac/amp? There wouldn't be a reason to use an audio interface with ps4 or to use a phantom powered condenser mic for ps4, you could get something like the v-moda boom pro or whatever will work with your headphones . If want really good dac/amp for Ps4 and PC, go with the micca origin g2 and use optical, which also has a line out for monitors if need it.


https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-G2-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01N14SY65/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1510845173&sr=8-2&keywords=origen+g2&linkCode=sl1&tag=zeos-20&linkId=63ea73fbbc443dca2e1a7b14e2dc4030


https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink-Black/dp/B00L3KO3YU/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1537906216&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=optical&psc=1


I dont know if you can get the origen g2 in the UK, but what you need is a dac/amp, not an audio interface for ps4.


If you could be more specific with what you want to do with whatever you buy, I could maybe better help. If just wanted to record from ps4, need something like el gato capture card and then can use whatever interface want on pc

I was planning on using an active subwoofer with it, yes. I was also thinking that having the extra channels would be good in case I wanted to add surround speakers in the future. The garage is HUGE and I really like my music loud and with a punch.

I ended up getting this pioneer instead.. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SY52NL?pf_rd_p=183f5289-9dc0-416f-942e-e8f213ef368b&pf_rd_r=YS1884CJJSDNH26RF5Q9

Maybe you two can educate me as to WHY you feel it wouldnt "turn out too good" instead of being condescending?

• save money with the amp. I use a Yamaha S-201 and it more than enough power. I drive $1300 speakers with it. Spend the additional cash on speakers
  
• add a subwoofer only if you really have to later on, if you already know that you WANT a subwoofer then you should look for a used amp with a sub out
  
• spend as much of your budget as possible on speakers! If you can get the amp for $100 then go and get a pair of ELAC Uni-fi UB5 for $395, they easily hold their own among speakers costing 3 times as much
  
• source depending on what you use as source you should either get an old CD player (or even a Playstation 1) or you need a DAC for your PC to connect to the system. A great and cheap DAC is a Behringer U-Control. I've used one for years and it was great
  
  Speakers, AMP, DAC -> perfect start for about $500. This setup will obliterate anything at its price range

People already linked the other two $150 stereo receivers from Best Buy but there's also this one that you should be able to price match to Amazon for $130 (or just buy it from Amazon).

If you don't want a gigantic amplifier I also recommend the Topping MX3 for $94 at Amazon.

You're also going to need some speaker wire which is probably overpriced at Best Buy and some type of cable to get sound from your computer to an AV receiver if you don't want to use bluetooth.

These are on sale for 98.99. Plug these directly into the front output of your pc, plug your sub into the sub output.

https://www.amazon.com/Swans-D1010-IV-Bookshelf-Speakers-Rosewood/dp/B0058QMRCK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480445417&sr=8-1&keywords=d1010

EDIT: I just realized I should say that any active desktop speakers should work

EDIT#2: You know what. Don't do this. The sub and the speakers won't have a proper cross over, you wont be happy.

This pair is a little out of your budget, (180$), but I think you will be very happy with them. They sound great. Try them, if you don't like just return them to amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Swans-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers-Powerful/dp/B0010LDZIC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480447950&sr=8-1&keywords=m20w

I used the following setup for a cheap 2.0 system:

Amp: Lepai lp-2020a - $30

Speakers: Micca Covo-S - $40

Speaker cable: Amazon Basic 16 gauge - $10 for 100 ft

I think they sound great for the size and cost, but this set up isn't really going to scream bass!

Nice thing about this is that you'll have components for if you want to upgrade later. You want a 5.1 setup down the road? Well turn those covo-s speakers into your rear channels. Want to just get some bigger speakers later on? Well you'll have an amp that should do fine for a simple set up.


edit: the Lepai amp can be cheaply made. I had to exchange one after 1 month because the knob was wobbling and a channel went out. However the replacement has served me well for over a year now.

edit 2: to get the most of these speakers if you're placing them on your computer desk, you'll need to have them resting on something to slightly angle them up to you. Or put them on stands/mounts closer to ear level.

both speakers are good and you'll be happy whichever pair you get. that being said, the Diamonds have better bass, so it's up to you if you're willing to sacrifice size for more bass

in addition, you'll need a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable and some speaker wire. buy the cheapest option, wires are wires and don't matter that much


unless you have a $5000 end-game setup, maybe then it's worth it to get nicer cables

I'm curious how this got to the top. I have the MB42x, and like them a lot, but don't we think the Swan 1010-IVs are better around here?

Have people who recommended the Miccas compared the two? Noaudiophile's review seems pretty clear.

The SMSL-SA98 will easily carry those speakers. I've been using it on my desktop for about 4-5 months and love it. It provides more then enough power to drive them, and it gets LOUD. I run mine with a schitt stack and don't even need to use high-gain at all.

I run RCA-RCA to the DAC, with RCA-3.5 to my PC. But you can buy a RCA-optic converter off of amazon (that's what I use for my TV). https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1497374003&sr=8-5&keywords=rca+to+optical+audio+converter That's the one I use and it works well.

Edit: Also as someone mentioned, you can buy a AD18 as well (this replaced the Q5 Pro which i also have used.) Comes with a remote and provides good power with more features then the SA98.

That Emotiva amp has been around for a few years in various trim. Sherbourn marketed it as a small integrated amp too. I've owned the Sherbourn and the A-100 and they are both good. The A-100 is great for headphones too.

As for the DAC, what is the source? CD or a PC? A decent CD should have a built in DAC, and for a PC Behringer makes a great sounding DAC for $30, model UCA202. DACs do not need to bust the bank account.

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-U-Control-UCA202-Ultra-Low-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=behringer+dac&qid=1566878565&s=gateway&sr=8-3

As I mentioned... $400-$500 is the absolute bottom basement cost to get a super beginner 5.1 setup. I'd rather see you spend $500 and replace the S530BT AVR with a Denon X1400H for $330. You'd have much more future capability with that receiver, but ultimately at this stage the speakers are more important.

• Denon AVR S530BT - $150
  
  
• Micca MB42X-C Center Channel Speaker - $70
  
  
• (2) Pair of Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers- $180
  
  
• 100' of 16ga AmazonBasics Speaker Wire - $11
  
  
• Figure $50 for whatever speaker stands or mounts that will make your setup work. HERE is an example
  
  
• Some LeGrand cable management solutions for hiding the speaker wire to the rears.
  
  
  if you have extra room in your budget, I would upgrade the AVR in this case. The 530bt is good for the money, but an X1400H would be MUCH better.

I just recently got the following and I listen to Jazz/Blues/Bluegrass quite a bit. I also wanted a A/V Receiver that would allow for future 4K@60FPS when/if I go down that road. Granted this will put you at 500 bucks, but just thought I would share.

ELAC Debut B6 For the type of music you are listening to, these definitely have enough low end range, plus they just sound really, really good to me at least.

Denon AVR-S510BT This is the A/V Receiver I use and I"m happy with it. The only thing I don't like are the spring clips, but I couldn't find anything else at the price point that had that many HDMI 2 ports plus optical in for my Chromecast Audio, plus this is able to power the ELAC's just fine. I wouldn't go over 16 gauge speaker wire for the spring clips. 14 might be doable, but it would be a pain.

Swan D1010-IV, currently only $70
>The D1010-IV has by far the best build quality in the $100-$150 range, and even without DSP Correction is a pretty good speaker. Compared to the Micca PB42x, Logitech z623, M-Audio AV32, and Mackie CR3 The Swan D1010-IV are the speakers to get.
>I cannot recommend the Swan D1010-IV speakers enough to cheap bastards looking for the best deal on the desktop, or audiophiles on a tight budget.

or Micca PB42x if those aren't available.

Your computer line-out/headphone jack should be fine to get started unless it has a problem, so don't worry about a dac for now. Enjoy the Swans for a while on their own, then add a Dayton Sub-800 down the road for about $170 total!

I personally think so. My mom just got a $150 vizio soundbar for Christmas and I didn't think it sounded very good compared to my Pioneer -SP-BS22 which I got for $50 off craigslist. Infact those are on a pretty good sale right now anyways $89. Add in the center channel for $70 and find a cheap receiver on CL and you're good to go

We're faaaaaar from pros, just fellow hobbyists.

I'd love that amp as well.

> I just wish it had aux in for Chromecast

All you need is a good old headphone-to-rca cable!

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2

Start with a nicer 2.1 system and build on later.

The Klipsch RP-150m are MUCH better quality:
https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-RP-150M-Bookshelf-Speaker-Ebony/dp/B00RXHEIHE


Save $100 with this larger sub:
http://www.parts-express.com/bic-formula-f-12-12-475-watt-subwoofer--303-436?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla

Denon 5.2 receiver:
https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-S510BT-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B00YAO43YG

Total $830

If you're willing to buy used speakers, you can get a much better deal. Don't buy a used receiver though.

If you're looking for a good and cheap receiver, I'd recommend the Denon AVR-S510BT. Got mine refurbished for $180 shipped, couldn't be happier.

---

Edit: Here's a nice perk I discovered about the Denon-Echo combination: After you link the two in the Alexa app, you can just say "Alexa connect to my speaker" and the receiver will turn on automatically and switch to Bluetooth. Great for turning on your setup hands-free!

Swan D1010-IV powered bookshelves cannot be best for under $70:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058QMRCK

Monoprice's basic 8" powered sub is just $60 right now:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8248

So, at this point you should still have around $60 left to work with. I would recommend spending that on some kind of external DAC; pretty much anything will be an upgrade over the onboard outputs from your motherboard. This unit from Behringer is well-regarded and gets the job done for $30:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KW2YEI

Grab two of these RCA splitters from Monoprice; you'll use them to split the one set of left and right outputs from the DAC into two, to route each to both the Swans and there sub:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=663

Grab a couple sets of these RCA cables to run from the splitters, to both the Swans and the sub (they're available in 6, 12, and 25 feet; get whatever you need to reach, probably 6 for the Swans and maybe 12 for the sub):
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2009

Let me know if you have any other questions (hooking things up, etc), or would like further recommendations. Enjoy!

Yea, I don't have it yet but plan on buying this [active speaker kit](JBL ACTPACK Active Studio Monitor Enhancement Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I1DGYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AurUAbTBTTHKG)
Its a pain to reach behind to adjust the volume on each speaker but you don't do it as often as you'd think. This is more to encourage the wife to use the system easier.

Unless you don't think the cable is going to reach you should be able to plug the turntable straight into the switch I believe.

I used these [ cables ] (Hosa CPR-202 Dual 1/4 inch TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 6.6 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O17/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JyrUAbKADDQYB) to connect the switch output to each of the speakers

And you would need [this cable](AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Cable - 8 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8ArUAbK3ZZJAT) for the Chromecast.

You're at the crossroads that everyone eventually gets to: pay less now and replace a lot of it later, or pay more now and future upgrades will be fairly incremental. This is because a decent receiver is at the heart of every audio system but that initial investment, even with diligent shopping, will cost you at least a couple hundred. Here's a good entry-level option.

For speakers to start out, I would get these klipsch r14m's for $99.

You could also go to goodwill and look for a basic surround receiver. I would make a trip, write down all the model numbers that look reasonably modern, and then do some research at home. You could probably get something decent for $50 IF you're willing to put the time in to find the gem.

Don't buy off CL. Too many scams.

Lastly, you should get a wall mount for the TV. That will create space on your stand for the receiver and a future center speaker.

So my advice is you could get mediocre and future-limited system now with that $200 - 300, or you could save up another $100 - 200 and get something that will last you the next ten years with room for growth.

If your only source is a PS4:


Connect PS4 to an optical audio DAC like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005K2TXMO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494292669&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=optical+audio+dac&dpPl=1&dpID=51uod%2BuYiQL&ref=plSrch

The output of the DAC can then connect to your receivers audio input (can't see input names on that model as the online pictures are crap)

Connect PS4 hdmi to tv as normal. Make sure you enable optical audio in the PS4 audio menu.

That's how I would set it up anyways. Your tv doesn't have optical output (rare) and your receiver doesn't have hdmi or optical so you're having to do audio analog and video hdmi/digital. Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-14-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B01D5H8XOY/ref=pd_day0_hl_23_3/137-2294305-1031853?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01D5H8XOY&pd_rd_r=91666369-31a2-11e9-aa96-e74d7a705039&pd_rd_w=gdC10&pd_rd_wg=9euOZ&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=35H4KAKSDMGCQ6WZXP3H&psc=1&refRID=35H4KAKSDMGCQ6WZXP3H

​

you wanna have the wire thicker so that it transmits clearly further. There's a graphic on r/zeos but I don't remember the details. Yes that receiver is great. I just suggested Craigslist cause you can get epic deals. I got mine for $30 and is a yamaha. No HDMI though, older model.

You have several options:

1. Easy, cheapest, move on with your life
   Buy the cable sociojeje linked (or whatever one you want as long as it goes from one 3.5mm to dual mono 1/4 inch). Plug 3.5mm into soundcard/onboard audio and 1/4 inch into the inputs on each speaker. Since you want to leave the volume control on the back of the monitors in one position and never touch it again, with this setup you will be using your PC for volume control, which usually sucks.
   
   2)I want to control volume outside of windows approach
   Get an inline volume control (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0002J226O/?coliid=I21HE0GYZHPUID&colid=1VYF10R99G2UC&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it is the cheapest one I can find). You get a 3.5mm to dual rca cable from your pc to the input on the volume control, then two rca to 1/4" from the control to the monitors. Leave windows at like 75-100% volume (you are going to have to experiment) and use the volume knob on the inline to control volume. This is also the ideal solution if you have an external DAC or buy one at some point (which you should)
   
   3)I want all the things, but dont want to spend a lot of money
   Buy this: https://www.amazon.ca/Micca-OriGen-G2-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01N14SY65/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540965426&sr=8-2&keywords=micca+origen+g2
   
   This an external DAC AND headphone amplifier in one. What makes this one special, is that you can switch between headphone out and line out (speaker) with the toggle switch at the front. This will replace your soundcard once its plugged in by USB and will also serve as your volume control. If you have headphones, it would be plugged into this as well. Cable wise, it would be USB from PC to the Dac (included with unit), then two RCA to 1/4" mono cables from the dac/headphone amp to the speakers

Your idea about getting a usb to optical is excellent, I had never realized that was an option. A few questions:

1. USB DACs don't require drivers or anything right?
   
   
2. Hows this? https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-BEHRINGER-U-CONTROL/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504407977&sr=1-2&keywords=usb+to+optical
   It would work better than what you recommended
   
   
3. How do the Kanto Yumi and Edifier R1850DB compare?

If the mechanism for the amp is too big, then that makes sense. Like I said, I'm pretty into the audio side of things.

Thanks for the recommendation for the amp by the way, that's very nearly double what I'm trying to spend on the whole set up. As I mention in the post, I will be using the speakers only on occasion and will still primarily be using my headphones as my daily drivers.

I took a look at the recommended bookshelf speakers list, and I'm liking the Micca COVO-S for a combination of size, prize, and aesthetics. I think I'd be willing to drop ~$30 at most on the amp itself as well.

I'm probably in the wrong sub to be bringing this up, but I guess given how little I'd be using it, I'm considering just dropping ~$20-30 on a bluetooth solution for economy and simplicity too.