Definitely sounds like adhesion problems. A good first layer is the most important thing for a successful print, so hopefully once you get this figured out you will start having a lot more success.

In my opinion, there are three parts to a good first layer:

1. Z-heights. In my opinion, this is the most important thing and you should get this working first before trying any crazy other things. For the first layer to work, you need to be very precise in how close the nozzle starts to the bed. This in of itself has two parts as well - z-offset, and bed levelness. The z-offset is set either with software settings if you have an auto-leveling probe (I think), or by some sort of mechanical endstop that will get bumped when your printer is leveling itself. Regarding bed levelness, if your bed is unlevel (and you don't have an auto-leveling probe compensating for it), then you will have different heights at different parts of your print bed, which will cause problems. I think that Monoprice printers have mechanical endstops, but they are not easily adjustable. That means that you have to do everything by adjusting the overall bed height to meet the nozzle, rather than having some control over both the bed levelness and the endstop engagement. The general rule of thumb for z-height is that you want to be able to just barely slide a piece of paper between the nozzle and the bed surface. I found the manual for your printer: take a look at step 7 on page 8 of the setup process, which explains it a bit. I recommend you level it while both the bed and the nozzle are hot (just be careful not to burn yourself). Position the extruder over the corner you will be adjusting, command the z-axis to home, and try to move the paper. My rule of thumb is if I can push the paper without it bunching up, but can still feel that there is some resistance from the nozzle, then I have it good. There is actually a tiny range of acceptable heights, and if you want to get really good adhesion then you can dial them down a little tighter, although that can cause other issues if you go too extreme. Repeat the paper test at all 4 corners, and then repeat it everywhere as a check- sometimes adjusting one corner can throw off all the others. Also test it in the middle of the bed to make sure that it isn't warped or twisted. [Edit] Also take a look at the pictures after step 21 on page 10. That should be a good indicator of if you have set your heights correctly.
   
   
2. Bed material. Plastic sticks better to some materials than to others. Other people have advised you on this already. I print with blue painter's tape, which has been really excellent for me. Keep in mind that different brands can be slightly different, so if you are having issues with one type then trying a different one might help- even if masking tape is very similar to painter's tape, the former might just not be good for holding onto 3d printer plastic. Kapton tape is also good, though more expensive and less disposable. I like that I can totally trash my print surface to take a stubborn print off the bed without wasting a ton of money. Other people print on borosilicate glass beds, which you can often get cut to size at hardware or home improvement stores- just be careful not to increase the height without adjusting your endstops somehow, which could cause your nozzle to crash into the bed if your mechanical endstop is set for a bare bed. Keep in mind that you will need to level your bed with the material on it, since adding stuff will increase the height of the bed slightly and will affect the paper test.
   
   
3. Bed adhesion aids. This is extra stuff to add onto the bed to increase adhesion. My printer can print well with just a good level surface and blue painter tape, but I use Aquanet Hairspray when I really want to get good adhesion for a weird print that won't have much first layer surface area. (check out "customers who bought this item also bought..." for a little laugh). You can pick up that up at a CVS or Walgreens. Other people have suggested glue sticks and other stuff.
   
   Some more little things, you are printing with ABS which has a high coefficient of thermal expansion. That means it has a strong tendency to warp and shrink as you print, which can cause the corners of your print to peel up off the bed. You can mitigate that slightly by controlling the ambient temperature around your printer more carefully. Get some sort of enclosure to stick your printer in to keep it hot- something simple like an insulated plastic bag, cardboard box, or tupperware container can work. Just be careful not to use anything flammable that the hot end could ignite.
   
   Alternatively, you could try a different plastic. PLA is a much more beginner friendly material that shouldn't give you the same warping problems that ABS does and doesn't need a heated enclosure at all. It has it's own problems that you may run into, but it should be much easier to get your first few good prints out of your printer with it.

I got my Ender 3 Pro about a month ago, performed some upgrades and ran into a few problems, but with some weird caveates.



I'm trying to print multiple miniatures on a single print, but seem to be getting a lot of oozing or stringing issues, but when I test with retraction tests, the test comes out perfect with identical settings. Additionally, when googling around, I couldn't find anything except for potentially a nozzle clog or potentially hydrated filament (possible, I'll test this later)

​

I've tested a few other prints as well, a benchy and a testcube, they print fine. Really curious about what's going on. Do I need to spread the prints out more, use different settings, or is it more of a mechanical issue?

​

I'd appreciate any help you guys have to recommend!

​

So, lets get down to it:

Printer: Creality Ender 3 Pro

Surface: Creality Glass surface

Upgrades: Aluminum extruder upgrade

Capricorn Tubing

New bed springs



In addition to these, I've tightened the X and Y bolts on the runners to reduce wobble -- there's no more wobble, maybe they're too tight? I don't think so, I've had good prints with these settings, but not with a few things.



Settings:

Basically the same as the "normal" settings for the Ender 3 on Cura 4.0.0

But in addition: (And what I think may be important is bolded)

adhesion_type = raft

layer_height = 0.12

support_tree_enable = True

support_type = buildplate

brim_outside_only = False

fill_outline_gaps = True

infill_pattern = cubic

infill_sparse_density = 25

material_final_print_temperature = 180

material_initial_print_temperature = 180

material_print_temperature = 185

optimize_wall_printing_order = True

raft_margin = 10

retraction_amount = 7.5

retraction_speed = 20

speed_print = 30

support_angle = 40

support_conical_enabled = True

support_infill_rate = 50

support_interface_enable = True

support_pattern = lines

** NOTE ** Standard supports are turned off, I'm using the tree supports

support_tree_collision_resolution = 0.15

travel_avoid_supports = True

travel_compensate_overlapping_walls_enabled = False

wall_thickness = 1.2

I run a campus makerspace with three MakerBots, and I feel your pain. It's been a year since we got them, and we've only just NOW (read: within the last month) figured out how to cut down on about 95% of the warping. Lots of the solutions here seem like they come from folks who aren't too familiar with MakerBot printers and the true shittiness of the flex build plate grip surface. For reference, our machines are used by a campus of about 10,000 students, so the machines are running 9 hours a day, every day.

First, I'd agree with some of the folks on here about throwing the machine out the window. If you're within the 30-day return window, return yours. They are absolute garbage, and if it wasn't for the $250 restocking fee that MakerBot charges after that 30 days, I'd return my three MakerBots in a heartbeat. Both the extruders and the build plates for the Replicator+ are truly awful. The proprietary MakerBot Print software leaves very little in the way of customization, so you can't really expect to even modify some of the slicer settings to test out what some of the folks in here are suggesting. At any rate, you should still print with a raft, because of the lack of a heated build plate.

MakerBot Customer Support, in their infinite wisdom, will typically recommend the following things over and over. I've spent more hours on the phone with them than hours at my job, and I'll preface this by saying none of their solutions worked in the long-term for any of our machines:

1. Blue painters tape is the go-to proposed solution by lots of folks. Don't bother, it just peels off as the plastic cools and shrinks. Likewise it scratches so easily, you end up replacing it weekly. In the specific case of MakerBot Replicator+ beds, blue painters tape doesn't stick for very long to the intentionally rough buildtak surface of the build plate, as opposed to with other smooth glass or PEI build plates.
   
2. Wiping build plates with isopropyl alcohol between prints to get rid of fingerprints and dirt. Never had a positive effect on our printed part quality.
   
3. Using helper disks is the solution most often suggested by MakerBot Support. Helper disks (referred to by someone here as "mouse ears") just warp off as the print warps, and pull the print up with them. They never worked for us, and did little to prevent warping or curling, even if we placed upwards of eight helper disks around the model.
   
4. Adjusting orientation to minimize surface area sticking to the build plate. On your model, try rotating it so the slimmest edge sits on the plate itself to create less surface area touching the flex build plate itself. This actually sort of works, but not consistently. Sometimes, it's not an ideal solution if propping up the model on a long edge creates tons of new supports.
   
5. Manually adjusting the z-offset height to be closer to build plate. This one, like adjusting the orientation, helped slightly but not in the long run. You're basically smushing more filament into the build plate if you lower the nozzle, which might help. But be careful not to scratch your build plate. Move down in small increments at a time and test.
   
6. Adjusting initial temperatures and slowing down the initial raft and first layer, and turning off the fan for the first few layers is another solution. Not a bad habit to get into, even if it doesn't work with MakerBot printers. Set the initial fan speed from 100% to 0%.
   
7. Avoiding twisting the flex build plates at all, in order to prevent hard-to-detect warping effects. These plates were supposed to be a novel, flexible way to remove printed parts but they have a tendency become permanently warped over time, leading to uneven build plate surfaces. Instead, use a spatula carefully and don't put too much force at all on the build plate.
   
8. Replacing the build plate entirely. A manager at MakerBot admitted over the phone that they ended up having no idea that the flex build plates were so bad, and warped so readily, and he said that they were slowly learning that the build plates were essentially a "consumable" just like filament. Meaning you can expect that if you're twisting them (even a little) to remove prints, you'll be replacing that flex build plate regularly. Another gold star for the MakerBot equipment quality control department.
   
   
   Now, the solution that worked miracles: try buying gaffer's tape. Another redditor recommended it, and we purchased this gaffer's tape. Since then, not a single print has failed due to warping issues. We can spread objects across the build plate with little regard for orientation or arrangement without much issue. Granted, on extremely large prints that take up the entire print volume, we might see a slight (maybe 5% at the corner, warping up about 1 or 2mm from the plate) warping issue, but it's nearly perfect compared to before. The same gaffer's tape strips I placed down for the very first test at the beginning of April are still sitting without a scratch on the build plates, so you can bet it doesn't peel or get scratched up easily either.
   
   I can't understate the amazing value of gaffer's tape.

Man, thank you for helping me so so very much. I will begin by trying to help you answer anything you ask as best I can. From what I recall considering this thing is now over two weeks old and I've done like of stuff to it yet still having no luck (yet moving forward) I can say that the person I bought it from had apparently thought it was a thermistor issue as the old one was still on but in bad shape. So I tested it with the wires still attached and I thought it read pretty good like close to the 100k ohms I'm looking for on my other printers thermistor.

The one I put in it is one of the 100k ohm-er's I was speaking of and as far as I can tell it very likely is the cause of this 700° BS that is going on now...

Everything should be hooked up right as I went and double checked that as soon as I encountered.this issue after replacing the thermistor.
Here is the screw in thermistor I haven't tried yet:

[Gulfcoast Robotics] Thermistor Upgrade for Maker Select Plus and Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus 3D Printers. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B3ZYBTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SHqyCbFDJB3A5

This is an Amazon link to the thermistors and heaters for the hotend that I've put into it since getting it:

Sunhokey 12V 40W Cartridge Heater and NTC Thermistor 100K 3950 for 3D Printer(Pack of 12pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KXSFSKP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_kiwvfNkNbZTWP

And it looks like the E3D V6 hotend that I think comes stock on the makerfarm Pegasus 10 models.

And this all being said and what you have already mentioned it is highly likely that I need new thermistors? I did go to the site that sells these and the heater I put on it at least claims all the same specs. 12v 40 watt heater... So I felt better after reading that considering I had already put it on this machine...

You are a terrific person for reaching out to me about this I've had a few folks reach out and I'm still dealing with these issues some of them the same ones. I don't expect there to be a ton of folks out there that are expert enough to just take on this sort of thing site unseen so I will do my best to accommodate you in any way that may help me gonna go post links to some pics of I can....

I asked a friend what his kids favorite pokemon are (they are obsessed and have no idea this is coming)

He replied and I left him in the dark after that.

I found a cool stl file of a pokeball on thingiverse

Printed 4, and inside each was supposed to go the favorite pokemon of each kid, plus some extra neat prints I've made.

However I had a problem printing one of the files and reached out to both r/fixmyprint and r/pokemon for help asking the 3d printing community how to modify the files to make it work better and the pokemon community for help on a backstory explaining greninja's size.

Both subs came through as very very helpful and I appreciate you so much, you are really gonna make some kids very happy!

Inside the box I used a Japanese candy/snack surprise package from Amazon as packing material which I thought was really cute

Anyways I just wanted to thank this sub for helping to make this project come together. I'm very excited to see the reaction of these kids!

To repair models I use:

https://netfabb.azurewebsites.net/

Now I just tried that on the HelmetFull and it did not fix the gaps. That's just missing parts of the model.

For gaps like that I'd use the spot putty.
https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-907-Glazing-Spot-Putty/dp/B0002JM8PY

I use that to fill in the big gaps. Then spray on primer, sand, spray again, etc. The way I finish my parts is as follows:



I fill holes, then spray primer, 3 coats. 120 grit sandpaper over all of it, pretty good pressure.

Then 2 more coats after I dust it off. Then medium pressure sanding with 220 grit sandpaper.

Then 2 more coats with medium pressure sanding using 320 or 400 grit sandpaper.

1 more coat, then light sanding with 1000 grit sandpaper. By the time I'm done my 3D prints are smooth as glass.


Far as the model itself, I used Rhino 3D to model and looks like it's easy to grab each piece and "export selected" as it's own file.
http://imgur.com/jFVN7Ve


If you wanted to you can get a 90 day free trial of Rhino 3D from their website. Full version for 3 months, free. That's how I was able to play with it and decide it's the software i wanted.

I might be able to save all those armor pieces as individual pieces. Seems fast enough. ...ok yeah it was.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B9_Cuin8abLtUmlkNHowSFhrd3M&usp=sharing

That SHOULD be a google drive shared folder. idk, never used it before.

31 items, should be all the armor pieces from neck to toes.

Good luck

I was having problems like this because of two different things:

Bed adhesion and my print bed lifting during printing.

I had reduced the number of clips holding down my bed surface on my ender 3 and what I didn't realize was that the bed surface was lifting during different stages of printing. If your print surface is removable you may want to make sure it is properly secured during printing. Even with 6 clips holding in place, though, you can still have some lifting in the middle of the bed. Even the smallest amount can cause major problems.

I fixed both of my problems by picking up a spring-steel sheet coated with PEI that mounts to a magnet that spans over the entire print bed. I got this one, but there are tons out there for all sorts of printers.

If you don't want to go the PEI sheet route, and if your bed surface is not removable, perhaps you simply need to change something else to improve bed adhesion, such as painter's tape, hair spray, glue stick, cleaning between prints with isopropyl alcohol, stuff like that. Not sure what you do currently.

Also, I recently dropped my fan speeds a TON. On most prints I have it turned off completely. Not sure if this is the best way to do things, but it has really improved the strength of my prints.

I thought so as well, and my line width when I started this fiasco was 0.4 (using 0.4mm nozzle). It's at 0.35 now but I'm pretty sure now that this issue may be related to my extruder, so I will be turning the line width back to 0.4 and check.

As for my extruder, I took of the PTFE tube and extruded 100mm of filament and it hits 100mm right on the dot, so it should be extruding enough. I am going to look at the spring the holds the filament against the gear. For reference this is a Tevo Titan (titan clone) extruder. Been working great last year or so. Maybe the spring is getting a little loose


here is the extruder. This one came with my Tarantula along with the stock one

https://www.amazon.com/TEVO-Extruder-Stepper-Printer-Mounting/dp/B076H8MWLT

edit: I forgot to add that I saw a few threads online saying 120% is best for line width which is why I tried bigger ones. Definitely keeping that one at nozzle width from now on!

I had a problem somewhat similar at times. My ender 3's bed was a bit warped. The buildtak surface worked well (never used tape) but yes, prints were a bit difficult to get off without scraping and damaging myself or the bed surface sometimes. So i bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F6CLTD7/
And it has changed everything. As long as you get the bed heated up to 60 degrees (and let it sit for a short bit to make sure the actual glass is that temp) you will get fantastic, flat, first layers. And prints that pop off on their own once the glass cools down. Warning, make sure the nozzle doesn't scratch the glass and don't use sharp spatulas on it. I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SLTY8B and they work perfectly. Thin, not sharp, flexible, pops things off no problem, even if the bed isn't cooled down.

Hold the glass to the bed with some tiny binder clips. Just make sure the print head doesn't run into the clips and you're good. I ended up changing out the cooling set up so that i had a thinner profile around the extruder to make sure i lost less print area due to the clips. I printed this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2911981 and like it, but there are many other fang style ones out there.

For leveling i use a piece of printer paper, folded over. Took calipers to it and it's about .2mm in that set up and i level just so the nozzle scratches the paper (not holds it) and that seems to work for me.

Shown above is the wall perpendicular to the Y axis. This wall has several (apparently random) layers that are misaligned (not shifted!). All layers perpendicular to the Y axis show this displacement, though layers even slightly start to improve greatly.

This problem appears in prints from 0.1mm to 0.3mm layer heights. Slowing the printer down to ~20 mm/s does not help.

(As mentioned below, I suspected the Y axis belt to be too loose and tightened it as much as possible, but that doesn't seem to be enough...)

I would love some help either diagnosing or suggesting a fix. Thanks!

Printer: Monoprice Maker Select V2 (ie. Wanhao Duplicator i3 v2.1)

Material: PLA Amz3d

Slicer settings: I used the print that came with the SD card (1.gcode). This is repeatable with my own slicer settings as well:

generated by Slic3r 1.2.9 on Sun Apr 9 04:22:41 2017

avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0<br />
bed_shape = 0x0,200x0,200x200,0x200<br />
bed_temperature = 50<br />
before_layer_gcode = <br />
bottom_solid_layers = 3<br />
bridge_acceleration = 0<br />
bridge_fan_speed = 100<br />
bridge_flow_ratio = 1<br />
bridge_speed = 60<br />
brim_width = 0<br />
complete_objects = 0<br />
cooling = 1<br />
default_acceleration = 0<br />
disable_fan_first_layers = 3<br />
dont_support_bridges = 0<br />
duplicate_distance = 6<br />
end_gcode = ;End GCode\nM104 S0                     ;extruder heater off\nM140 S0                     ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)\nG91                                    ;relative positioning\nG1 E-1 F300                            ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure\nG1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F[travel_speed] ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more\nG28 X0 Y0                              ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way\nM84                         ;steppers off\nG90                         ;absolute positioning<br />
external_fill_pattern = rectilinear<br />
external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0<br />
external_perimeter_speed = 50%<br />
external_perimeters_first = 0<br />
extra_perimeters = 1<br />
extruder_clearance_height = 20<br />
extruder_clearance_radius = 20<br />
extruder_offset = 0x0<br />
extrusion_axis = E<br />
extrusion_multiplier = 1<br />
extrusion_width = 0<br />
fan_always_on = 1<br />
fan_below_layer_time = 60<br />
filament_colour = #FFFFFF<br />
filament_diameter = 1.75<br />
fill_angle = 45<br />
fill_density = 20%<br />
fill_pattern = honeycomb<br />
first_layer_acceleration = 0<br />
first_layer_bed_temperature = 50<br />
first_layer_extrusion_width = 0<br />
first_layer_height = 90%<br />
first_layer_speed = 15<br />
first_layer_temperature = 200<br />
gap_fill_speed = 10<br />
gcode_arcs = 0<br />
gcode_comments = 0<br />
gcode_flavor = reprap<br />
infill_acceleration = 0<br />
infill_every_layers = 1<br />
infill_extruder = 1<br />
infill_extrusion_width = 0<br />
infill_first = 0<br />
infill_only_where_needed = 1<br />
infill_overlap = 15%<br />
infill_speed = 50<br />
interface_shells = 0<br />
layer_gcode = <br />
layer_height = 0.2<br />
max_fan_speed = 100<br />
max_print_speed = 60<br />
max_volumetric_speed = 0<br />
min_fan_speed = 35<br />
min_print_speed = 10<br />
min_skirt_length = 5<br />
notes = <br />
nozzle_diameter = 0.4<br />
octoprint_apikey = <br />
octoprint_host = <br />
only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 1<br />
ooze_prevention = 0<br />
output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode<br />
overhangs = 1<br />
perimeter_acceleration = 0<br />
perimeter_extruder = 1<br />
perimeter_extrusion_width = 0<br />
perimeter_speed = 30<br />
perimeters = 2<br />
post_process = <br />
pressure_advance = 0<br />
raft_layers = 0<br />
resolution = 0<br />
retract_before_travel = 2<br />
retract_layer_change = 0<br />
retract_length = 2<br />
retract_length_toolchange = 10<br />
retract_lift = 0<br />
retract_restart_extra = 0<br />
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0<br />
retract_speed = 40<br />
seam_position = random<br />
skirt_distance = 6<br />
skirt_height = 1<br />
skirts = 1<br />
slowdown_below_layer_time = 5<br />
small_perimeter_speed = 7<br />
solid_infill_below_area = 70<br />
solid_infill_every_layers = 0<br />
solid_infill_extruder = 1<br />
solid_infill_extrusion_width = 0<br />
solid_infill_speed = 10<br />
spiral_vase = 0<br />
standby_temperature_delta = -5<br />
start_gcode = G21        ;metric values\nG90        ;absolute positioning\nM82        ;set extruder to absolute mode\nM107       ;start with the fan off\nG28 X0 Y0  ;move X/Y to min endstops\nG28 Z0     ;move Z to min endstops\nG1 Z15.0 F[travel_speed] ;move the platform down 15mm\nG92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length\nG1 F[travel_speed]\n;Put printing message on LCD screen\nM117 Printing...\n<br />
support_material = 1<br />
support_material_angle = 0<br />
support_material_contact_distance = 0.2<br />
support_material_enforce_layers = 0<br />
support_material_extruder = 1<br />
support_material_extrusion_width = 0<br />
support_material_interface_extruder = 1<br />
support_material_interface_layers = 3<br />
support_material_interface_spacing = 0<br />
support_material_interface_speed = 100%<br />
support_material_pattern = pillars<br />
support_material_spacing = 2.5<br />
support_material_speed = 30<br />
support_material_threshold = 0<br />
temperature = 190<br />
thin_walls = 1<br />
threads = 4<br />
toolchange_gcode = <br />
top_infill_extrusion_width = 0<br />
top_solid_infill_speed = 15<br />
top_solid_layers = 3<br />
travel_speed = 80<br />
use_firmware_retraction = 0<br />
use_relative_e_distances = 0<br />
use_volumetric_e = 0<br />
vibration_limit = 0<br />
wipe = 0<br />
xy_size_compensation = 0<br />
z_offset = 0

Yeah, I had been really good at getting part that are easy to work with and I missed where a 12V would be easier to work with. I ended up getting this fan:
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498843580&sr=8-1&keywords=noctua+40mm

It had a few people mention using it for their 3D printer then I forgot to check the rest lol. I'll probably pick up a new fan here soon if I can't get this one hooked up.

Warping is caused by uneven cooling. As the top layers cool, they shrink and pull on the lower layers. The trick is to minimize the difference between the extruding temperature and the ambient temperature in the chamber. For ABS at 240c you want the chamber around 80c, but any heat helps. This will cause everything to cool more gradually and evenly, reducing the chances of warping. Increasing the heated bed temperature can also help for the same reasons.

I put two 4ohm 50W power resistors on a cpu heatsink to make a small heater, but if I were doing it again I'd just make one of these things blow into the chamber. My heater is 72W, that one is 200W.

The right side of that print should be straight. More pictures here: https://imgur.com/a/NoQeBjv

This was printed on a Prusa i3 Mk3, PETG at 250 extruder and 90 bed temps. The overhang side had support (removed prior to taking picture).

The area below the bulge is straight, but once it got above that split point where the support was needed on the other side, it started to bow the opposite out. What is this called? And more importantly, how can I fix this?




Previous prints with vertical walls in similar shapes did not exhibit this issue. In previous parts, the "stem" of the print was thicker, but the overhang was the same.

This was sliced in PrusaSlicer, using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PGYHYV8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Start with drying your filament or dumping and buying new.

Filament that’s been left out absorbs moisture just from the humidity in the air.

I bought a 5 gallon bucket along with an air tight screw top lid and one of these Rechargable Dessicant modules. Lock your filament in here, put that bucket in a warm place for a week and it should dry out. There’s a modification to this setup where you place a work light with a metal shade inside the bucket at the bottom with a low wattage bulb (40W) along with dessicant. You need a little shelf inside the bucket to sit the filament on. The turn the bulb on, close the lid, and wait overnight. You have to put holes in the bucket for this technique but it’s faster. IMO, save the $$ from building this heated chamber, buy new filament and have just the bucket with dessicant for storing when not in use.

If you have access to a large enough dehydrator or you have an oven than can go very low (100°F), that will work too.

Once you’ve dried out the filament your prints should improve. Heck I found that prints improved drastically from putting brand new filament in the bucket for a day.

I'll have a better look at the feeding tomorrow, if I watch it a while it should be visible if it's slipping like with the other part I'd tried.

​

I'll try get some test prints to check the belts first.

For the nozzle I'd bought a replacement set from most of my research they're a good brand figured they be trustworthy, and they're also who I used for my filament. I'm guessing half the stuff is imported from China and just rebranded, but you've got to put your money somewhere, I guess. I do have another spool but its flex, so not sure if that'll actually help.

Sorry, some relevant info.
hictop i3
with a sheet of borosilicate glass on the bed.
I'm new to printing. (:
I've lowered the acceleration to 750. which helped with other things but not this problem.
ALSO, X and Y dimensions are not quite right. the Z dimension is perfect. My goal is to print a z-probe part first since this printer did not come with.

>If it were me I'd probably switch back to my standard filament just to make sure my printer is still working like I'm used to. It's way better to troubleshoot a known-known.

This is actually exactly what I just did! And to my surprise, I had the same problem with the previous filament.
I actually found the issue now! At the same time I put in place the new nozzle, I also put in place one of these E3d silicon socks. And it seems this silicon sock is preventing the print to be properly cooled by my fan shroud!
I just removed it and tried again and now the print looks fine. Now I just have to try again with the glow in the dark filament but my guess is that it's gonna work!

I purchased the creality glass plate (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L4RCN1Z) and added it to the bed and it seems I have to go up to 70c too. Otherwise the glass seems to be too cold and I cant get anything to stick. I know PLA isnt supposed to require heated bed, but it does seem to help in my case. The glass has the film on it that is supposed to "grab" when heated and "release" when cool. That is probably why I need the heated bed.

• Printer: Ender 3 Pro w/ glass print bed
  
• Print material: PLA
  
• Temps: nozzle 220, bed 70
  
• Firmware: whatever came on the printer by default, using Ultimaker Cura for the slicer
  
  I recently turned up the temps a bit because I was having first layer going down badly, but I think I over did it a bit and it's giving me a bit of stringing. Other slicer settings tried changing:
  
  
• jerk: 8 mm/s
  
• acceleration: 250 mm/s^2
  
• feed rate: 60 mm/s
  
• layer height: .2 mm
  
  The thing that's been driving me a bit crazy is getting the front of the boat there to have a nice smooth surface. The surface didn't really seem to change that much with the reduced jerk / acceleration. What are some things I can try changing to help improve the print?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1