Reddit mentions of Premium 3D Print Removal Tool Kit - Durable 3D Printer Tools with Sturdy Comfort Grips, Sharp and Hardened Blades for Easy Separation of Prints, Knife and Spatula Set of 2 - Enhanced Version

Outside of the things others have mentioned (springs, tubing, couplers, SKR, BMG, etc.) - if you don't already have some good tools/spare parts you can use this time to invest in some.

• Some superlube for bearings/z-rod/etc
  
• Ferrules & crimp (great if you want to swap boards and have 'proper' cabling)
  
• A heavier duty 'get off the damn bed' thingy
  
• Reusable cable ties (save the ocean or some shit)
  
• Deburr tool
  
• M2/M3/M4 bolt set with T-nuts (great if you want to print some add-ons that attach to the extrusions)
  
• Different bed surfaces if you want to experiment
  
• Microfiber cloths for cleaning things
  
• Tooth brush and some orange cleaner for cleaning up that z-rod
  
• LED lightbar or some other form of lighting
  
• Extra hot end socks, nozzles, thermistors, heating elements (better to have one or two on hand then wait a while!)
  
• 14/12 awg silicone wire for mains connection (great with spades & ferrules!)
  
• Soldering iron, cabling, heatshrink (if you want to swap fans or do any other wire splicing activities)
  
• Ball bearing 4010 fans (or 4020, or whatever size you mod to - IMO go for 24v and avoid noctua/buck converter shenanigans)

Yeah, that totally blows. Do you have the glass bed?

I do. Here's what works for me and I've never damaged a print in the process.

1. Buy a better removal tool. The tool that ships with the Ender is a steaming pile of crap. I recommend this one:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075SLTY8B
   
   It's actually a set of two tools. The longer tool will rock your world! Ok, perhaps I'm overselling it a bit, but it's amazing. Unfortunately, the shorter tool sucks rocks.
   
   
2. A tiny spritz of alcohol (buy a cheapo spray bottle) along one edge of your print will magically loosen it up a bit, regardless of the current bed temperature.
   
   
3. Finally, combine 1) and 2) with one last top secret ingredient. Position the tool at just the right angle (you'll figure it out) and tap the end of it with your favorite, nearby, solid object. In my case, that's a hairbrush. Your's might be, for example, a piece of last night's rock-hard leftover pizza. In any case, with a tap or two, you should be good to go.
   
   Good luck and happy printing!

I had a problem somewhat similar at times. My ender 3's bed was a bit warped. The buildtak surface worked well (never used tape) but yes, prints were a bit difficult to get off without scraping and damaging myself or the bed surface sometimes. So i bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F6CLTD7/
And it has changed everything. As long as you get the bed heated up to 60 degrees (and let it sit for a short bit to make sure the actual glass is that temp) you will get fantastic, flat, first layers. And prints that pop off on their own once the glass cools down. Warning, make sure the nozzle doesn't scratch the glass and don't use sharp spatulas on it. I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SLTY8B and they work perfectly. Thin, not sharp, flexible, pops things off no problem, even if the bed isn't cooled down.

Hold the glass to the bed with some tiny binder clips. Just make sure the print head doesn't run into the clips and you're good. I ended up changing out the cooling set up so that i had a thinner profile around the extruder to make sure i lost less print area due to the clips. I printed this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2911981 and like it, but there are many other fang style ones out there.

For leveling i use a piece of printer paper, folded over. Took calipers to it and it's about .2mm in that set up and i level just so the nozzle scratches the paper (not holds it) and that seems to work for me.

Not from Prusa, but here are some other things I use over and over and over and am glad I bought. These are not affiliate links and you can probably find some of these items cheaper elsewhere:

Thin craft spatulas for removing prints: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SLTY8B (some say "never scrape using a metal tool" but these are very thin and flexible and really help with some prints)

Cleaning filament: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVIYNFW

Silicone socks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07779TP4S

Good quality hex drivers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O5014 these will make assembly and maintenance MUCH easier than the included tools. Especially the smallest one that fits the set screw in the Bondtech extruder gear really well, much better than the "decent" hex keys I already had in my toolkit

I got a QIDI tech one which is just a older version of this which really I don’t think there is much different between the 2. I’ll try and quickly go over some answers and if I get time later today I’ll try and answer more.

1.) this print bed over time will be scratched up from use. You can replace the surface material which isn’t overly difficult but I would look for a different scraper tool. I use something like this and another set that is similar and it’s a lot easier to get prints off the bed. : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075SLTY8B?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

2.) it’s been done though I don’t know the process to swap out the bed to glass I just always used the surface pads. I got a new printer a month ago so this one has not been in use but I picked up some gecko tech surface pad I’ll try and find the link later but it’s like the build pad on the printer now but in theory it’s supposed to release the prints after it cools down.

4.) there is no set magic print speed it varies from material and model you print with I will try and find what my last speed was when I get home.

5.) temperature is another element based on the material you use. I got some brands that prints great at 200, 205, and some that prints at 215. Just have to try and find what works.

6.) you don’t really need a brim unless you get prints that don’t have a lot of surface contact think the last time I used a brim I had like 6 wide and 2-3 layers thick but try out different settings and see what might work for you.

7.) there is a few programs out there but I see a lot suggest fusion360 which is a good program but takes a bit of work to get used to.

8.) there’s several types of slicing programs out there. Slic3r and cura are the popular free programs but I used simplify3d which is a paid program which runs $150. Is it better than the other programs not really it has its good points and bad just need to look around and see what works.

9.) never used the slicer as they released it like 6-8 months after I got my printer so I can’t say for sure.

10.) This I think is the normal for other slicers I know slic3r, and simplify3d does it I never used cura but I think it also does it as well. The one that’s looking like vines is done by meshmixer.

11.) not sure the best way to go about this one but you can adjust the scale of the print on the x,y,z in the program and use a caliper for the dimensions and trial and error from there. There’s a little more that can effect this but I can maybe go over it when I get home.

12.) for tips I can’t think of any this moment but maybe try out some of the different YouTube channels out there like makers muse and 3d printing nerd and toms3d. Each cover different areas but should have some relation to some of the questions you asked.

I’ll get home in like 5 hours I’ll try and answer more then and try and go in depth on some other things.

I just noticed that the official seller of the Ender 3 Pro design has lowered the price to $300, and is on sale besides for just $260

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K3SZBHJ/

If you get this, be sure to also get these essential tools:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072WS3M9H

^ for cutting support structures off of your models, the angled cutting head makes it easy to get into small crevices

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075SLTY8B

^ after slightly bending the removable magnetic heatbed, use this to help pry the 3d print off the rest of the way