Reddit mentions: The best 3d printer accessories

Most of these are less about upgrading, and more about fixing possible issues. But all of these are great to have and extremely cheap.


As others have said the glass bed and yellow bed springs are great, just be aware the amazon listing on there I used was shipped from china and took almost a month to show up. So pay attention to the shipping times.


The couplers the E3 comes with are straight up garbage. If they are not causing problems yet... they will. These are way better and give you plenty of extras if you ever need them:
https://smile.amazon.com/Ivelink-PC4-M10-Straight-Pneumatic-Extruder/dp/B073TTWWN1/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=ender+3+coupler&qid=1558892247&s=gateway&sr=8-7

​

The PTFE tube it comes with is also not great, any replacement one is usually better, and like others said with Capricorn you can print higher temps, but they also are manufactured to tighter tolerances and have less slack in your system. As to if this is a noticeable difference, it's arguable, but upgrading has fixed problems for some people.
https://smile.amazon.com/Capricorn-Bowden-Tubing-1-75mm-filament/dp/B079P92HN9/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=capricorn+tubing&qid=1558892351&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

Even more important than the tubing it self is the cutter you use, if you buy different tubing, make sure you get a good cutter so the ends don't get pinched. This can cause drag that causes underextrusion.

https://smile.amazon.com/Capricorn-Bowden-Tubing-Cutter-M-Bowden-Cutter/dp/B07N11H963/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=capricorn+tubing&qid=1558892424&s=gateway&sr=8-8

​

The plastic extruder on the E3 is know to wear out after a few months for some. A filament guide will help but a better aluminum extruder should fix it for good. They are cheap and easy to install:

https://smile.amazon.com/HICTOP-Upgraded-Replacement-Aluminum-Extruder/dp/B0761PGLZ4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=ender+3+extruder&qid=1558892498&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

​

Once you want to go deeper down the hole, the two big mods that you will be happy with are A auto bed leveler and quieter stepper motors. There are guides for both of these on youtube and they are much more complicated and a bit more expensive but give amazing results.

​

A BLTouch goes for about $80 with the extension cable so you don't have to cut wires. It will make it so you save an offset and basically rarely have to level your bed again and the machine will account for most of it. There is another type of leveler I think it's called EZABL or something like that, but I liked the BLTouch option better so I never did the research on it.


If you want to do more upgrades like a touch screen, filament rounout sensor, and etc. you need a different main board. Most people upgrade to the MKS Gen L. They are about $25 bucks but require you to also buy new stepper motor drivers, which i'll touch on next. The board has more memory and slots for upgrades that the stock board does not. It does require a lot more setup and printing a new housing for the board. Again there are great youtube videos, just search for 'Ender 3 MKS Gen L'

​

If you think the Ender 3 is loud and would like it to be WAY quieter you can install better stepper motor drivers. The TMC 2208 driver will make the movement almost silent. you will still hear the fans, but the movement sound will completely gone. To install them you will need to either use the above mentioned board (as the stock board has the drivers integrated) or if you want an easier way you can order the Ender 3 Silent Ver 1.4 board:

https://www.creality3donline.com/creality3d-new-upgrade-silent-114-mainboard-for-ender-3-pro-ender-5-customized-und-non-standard-matching_p0147.html

This won't give you the upgradabiliity of the MKS board, but is a direct drop in replacement that gives you the silent steppers.

​

Welcome to family, and I hope some of that was helpful

> Thanks in advance for answering my questions.

• How long have you had your Flashforge, and how much have you printed on it?
  
  I purchased it last August. (781 hours logged) It's almost litterly been printing out of the box since day one. The only issue I had out of the box is that the one screw on the build plate got bent as a result of the 2 free spools bouncing into it. I ordered a box of them from McMaster and had it fixed by the end of the week. I contacted Lisa on their google chat form and from what I understand, they now come with the screw as a result of my support ticket. This was an annoyance yes, but I've had more issues with my reprap and that costed me more than this pritner when I bought it. (I originally had a Makergear Prusa)
  
  
• What do you like the most and the least about this printer?
  
  Most: I love the fact that it prints 100% of the times I try to print something. I rarely, and I mean RARELY have a failed print. I love that I can hit print before I go to bed and wake up to a completed part in the morning.
  
  Least: This is small, and it took a while but I have since out grown the build platform (9x6x6 inches). I recently ordred an 8x12 plate from McMaster and that arrives on monday and we'll see how that works. (PSA this requires removing one of the extruders - if you want more info on this let me know)
  
  
• Have you printed with ABS?
  
  Yes, no issues. Just close up the printer with the included panels.
  
  
• If so, did you experience any problems such as curling?
  
  No, I use a glass build plate and a thin coat of purple glue stick. I then spritz water on the plate before each print. I never have a sticking issue and I never have warpage. I personally prefer PLA though since Hatchbox has come to light and makes GREAT PLA
  
  
• Have you had any problems with the metal bed warping or with leveling the bed?
  
  Like I said just above, I use a glass build plate, so I haven't had any warpage issues with the bp. Leveling the bed is a bit of a challenge but I'm fussy about it and I want it within 0.0005 or less so it takes me a while. The reason I'm fussy is because I've only had to level the bed 2 or 3 times since owning it.
  
  The first was when I got it
  
  The second was when I added the glass build plate
  
  The third was when I removed one extruder and added an aluminum carriage.
  
  That's it. It never lost it's level and it's gone through 3 moves (like I moved apartment to apartment)
  
  
• Finally, how is the customer service or community support for this printer? Thanks again!
  
  The only experience I had was with that screw initially. I contacted Lisa on their Google Chat forum and she handled it mostly. Sadly, it wasn't as 'perfect' as I wanted since their solution was to send the printer back instead of sending me a new screw. Never the less, they did try to help on the matter and told me how I could go about getting money for the screw if I so desired. In the long run, it's a screw and I just ordered them from McMaster. I have zero regrets from it and I think I know my printer a bit beter because of it.
  
  single extruder carriage (PSA: their single extruder block is not FF compatible.
  
  My Thingiverse for example prints
  
  Some things I would buy shortly after getting the printer:
  
  Spare Extruder fan : I tend to slip and put a screw drive in the path of this, shattering the blades. If you're a clutz like me, get it. I've needed 4 so far. ::hangs head in shame::
  
  Glass Build Plate : Best purchase I've made for my FF. Works great, easy to install and use. Also get thermal sheets and purple elmers glue, and print the spacer found on my Thingiverse page under "Flashforge Upgrades". Also get a spatula, and dikes
  
  Simplify3D : A lot people tend to spend $X,XXX on a printer and then try to use free software with it and complain when it doesn't print right. To me that's like buying a car without tires. A Corvette ain't shit without a decent set of tires. It's kind of pricy compared to free, I know, but at real CAM programs (which is what this basically is) cost $8,000 or more. It truely is a great printer program and I wish I had purchased it much MUCH sooner than I had.
  
  Last and most importantly, get the an active cooling fan. I originally printed this, and purchased a 12v power supply and added some fans to it. I have since moved on to the offical one from FF. It's not as good but I haven't really ran into an issue. If I had to print from my right extruder, it would be an issue though. What I liked about it, is that it's a plug and play added on. No "modifications" needed to added.
  
  TL;DR / Closing thoughts: I would buy this printer again in a heartbeat. ESPECIALLY if they came out with one similar to the Replicator 2 with the 11.9" build plate. Instead it looks like they went a different way judging by CES but oh well, there's always next year. Further more, I think this is a great entry level printer for someone looking to have a printer help with projects and not be one of them. That doesn't mean you can't mod it or upgrade or whatever, it just means you don't have to if you don't want to.
  
  
  Hope this helps and answers any questions you might have. Feel free to ask more though!
  

I've owned the Ender 3 for a few months now and have made a number of upgrades, both purchased and printed. Here's a list of what I have purchased and printed, sorted by importance/usefulness.

 

Purchased Parts:

1. EZABL - An automatic bed leveling solution that has worked really well for me. TH3D's firmware and documentation are top notch. Once I dialed it in I've had no issues with bed leveling or adhesion. Also note, TH3D is an American company and Tim, the owner, is even a mod of this sub!
   
   
2. Stepper Motor Dampers - A great way to quiet down the printer. My bedroom and office are connected without an intervening door and the dampers allow me to print overnight and still get get to sleep. Some users have had issues with stepper motors running hot with the dampers installed, but I've had no trouble at all, even after 16+ hr prints.
   
   
3. 5015 Blower Fan - For use with the Petsfang Duct, see below.
   
   
   
4. Assorted M3 Screws - If you're going to be making mods to your printer, you're eventually going to need different sized screws. Having various lengths on hand is super helpful when trying to mount a new part.
   
    
   
   Printed Parts:
   
   
5. Filament Guide Arm - This has helped a lot with keeping the filament feeding smooth and preventing under-extrusion issues. There is a more popular model on thingiverse, but I found this version to be stronger and more stable.
   
   
6. Petsfang Cooling Fan Duct - An extremely popular replacement for the part cooling duct and fan. This creates much more even cooling around the filament as its extruded, providing better bridging and better overall print quality. There is a version using a replacement 5015 blower fan, as I have used, and there's a version called the "Bullseye" that uses the stock fan. I chose to replace the stock fan because mine was starting to rattle.
   
   
7. Tool Holder - It sounds frivolous, but having the tools you need right at hand can be a big help in saving a print or performing trouble shooting. Definitely a must have.
   
   
8. LCD Rear Cover - Protects the circuit board behind the LCD, which is exposed from the factory. If you have children like I do, this is a must.
   
   
9. Cable Chain - Routs the various cables to their destinations in a clean way. Looks super cool. Not necessary, but definitely fun. Note, there is an X-axis cable chain setup available, but I found it made excessive noise and wasn't worth the trouble.
   
   
10. Fan Shroud - Protects the main board fan from bits of filament falling down into the casing.
    
    
11. Storage Drawer - A handy little drawer that slides in next to the LCD. I store things like alcohol swabs, razor blades, and other random tools in it.
    
     
    
    Future Upgrades:
    
    Spool Roller - One issue I've found is that the stock spool holder requires excessive force from the extruder to unwind filament. A replacement spool roller with bearings should reduce the friction significantly and produce more even extrusion.
    
    Metal Extruder - A common problem with the Ender 3 is that it fails to maintain proper tension on the extruder gear, which leads to failure to feed and poor extrusion. An all-metal extruder has been known to fix the issue.
    
    
    
    
    
    

I have a Maker select. It's my first and only 3D printer so my review compared to others is unreliable.

Here's a copy/paste of a review I did on it about a month ago. It's long but detailed with links:

I will give you my background before my opinions. As everyone has different goals, opinions, and experiences.

I got my printer near the end March of this year. I have something like 2500m of filament run though it, and no idea how much print time.

When I received my printer, my test prints failed and I was pissed. But this community helped improve my Cura settings and started producing usable parts. I then went nuts and printed out a BUNCH of mods. This is by far my most favorite thing. There's always something I can print to improve the quality of the prints.

THe down side is I went too far and got to a point where I couldn't produce anything of quality. So, 2 weeks of tweeking and researching later I'm printing in PETG with beautiful quality and very minimal visible layers.

My most recent project in PETG:
http://i.imgur.com/sVf7S2D.jpg?1

So, now to answer your question...

> How do you like your Maker Select?

I love it. It allowed me to buy a cheaper printer (One of the cheapest at the time @ $350) that produced amazing results. It also has upgrades you can purchase or print to improve the quality, so investing smaller amounts over time to make it better and better. I highly recommend it to anyone who is starting because it does require tweaking which forces you to learn and understand how exactly 3d printers work. A major plus was that this community has a lot of Maker Select users for support, which was a MAJOR plus for me.


As of today, I've purchased the following upgrades:

• IKEA enclosure - $115
  
• LEDs for Inside enclosure - $25
  
• MK-9/10 Extruder Gear - $9
  
• Micro Swiss All Metal hot End - $50
  
• Micro Swiss Lever - $18 (Totally not necessary, but Micro Swiss's support was AMAZING to deal with, and I wanted to support them so I purchased this as well.
  
• Misc. M3 and M4 Screws, etc. - ~$25 in total between Amazon Orders and Lowe's for things needed for mods.
  
• New 40mm fan because I broke the blade on the one I had. There are cheaper ones than this. - $14
  
• 50mm blower fan - $8
  
  So, in the last ~3 months I've spent an additional $264... Oh god, don't tell my wife! All are totally not necessary, mind you. The only thing I'd 100% recommend you do are print out the following to mods:
  
  DiiiCooler along with buying the 50mm blower fan. There are cheaper options out there, I just wanted it faster so I bought it through Amazon to get free 2 day shipping.
  
  z-Brace - This is key, and will run you maybe $15 worst case scenario to get enough M4 screws and the threaded rods.
  
  Edit: Forgot a couple more things I bought.
  
  
• Lowe's glass - $4 for 2 pieces of 7.9"x7.9" glass
  
• Borosilicate Glass - $12 - Amazing adheasing with PLA and ABS. Don't use it right now, though because I'm printing in PETG and I read on here that PETG eats borosilicate glass.
  
• Lithium Grease - $7. When I changed my bearing blocks, I had issues with sticking so I purchased some of this to help smoothing out the bearing movement on the polished rods.
  
• 3D print removal tool - $5. Printer comes with a larger scraper, but I needed something a bit more fine (thin) and this thing is perfect.
  
• Spare bearings - $13 because I broke one of them when swapping to 3d Printed bearing blocks.
  
• Digital Calipers - $18
  
  That's another $59, so $323... I have a problem. again, 95% of this is NOT NECESSARY. I'm just addicted to modding.
  
  

I got my Ender 3 Pro about a month ago, performed some upgrades and ran into a few problems, but with some weird caveates.



I'm trying to print multiple miniatures on a single print, but seem to be getting a lot of oozing or stringing issues, but when I test with retraction tests, the test comes out perfect with identical settings. Additionally, when googling around, I couldn't find anything except for potentially a nozzle clog or potentially hydrated filament (possible, I'll test this later)

​

I've tested a few other prints as well, a benchy and a testcube, they print fine. Really curious about what's going on. Do I need to spread the prints out more, use different settings, or is it more of a mechanical issue?

​

I'd appreciate any help you guys have to recommend!

​

So, lets get down to it:

Printer: Creality Ender 3 Pro

Surface: Creality Glass surface

Upgrades: Aluminum extruder upgrade

Capricorn Tubing

New bed springs



In addition to these, I've tightened the X and Y bolts on the runners to reduce wobble -- there's no more wobble, maybe they're too tight? I don't think so, I've had good prints with these settings, but not with a few things.



Settings:

Basically the same as the "normal" settings for the Ender 3 on Cura 4.0.0

But in addition: (And what I think may be important is bolded)

adhesion_type = raft

layer_height = 0.12

support_tree_enable = True

support_type = buildplate

brim_outside_only = False

fill_outline_gaps = True

infill_pattern = cubic

infill_sparse_density = 25

material_final_print_temperature = 180

material_initial_print_temperature = 180

material_print_temperature = 185

optimize_wall_printing_order = True

raft_margin = 10

retraction_amount = 7.5

retraction_speed = 20

speed_print = 30

support_angle = 40

support_conical_enabled = True

support_infill_rate = 50

support_interface_enable = True

support_pattern = lines

** NOTE ** Standard supports are turned off, I'm using the tree supports

support_tree_collision_resolution = 0.15

travel_avoid_supports = True

travel_compensate_overlapping_walls_enabled = False

wall_thickness = 1.2

• For containers I just use 1 pint cheap plastic containers that soups come in or deli give you. I guess you can find a nice piece of Tupperware that is about that size, and a taller one for taller prints. You could probly just ask the Deli guys at a food store for a few empty 1 pint containers + lids.
  
  
  • 2 containers - one with pure IPA and one with clean water. Good lids that won't leak.
    
    
• 91% or 99% IPA for cleaning your build plate / resin vat / scraping tools / desk / etc. and for using in the print wash container. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ABPUGH0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• More gloves: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CF49NJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 My palm width is about 3.6 inches / 9.2 cm and I bought the XL which fit ok.
  
  
• More paint strainers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HQELZ7E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Better removal tools: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Also get some Xacto knives + extra blades + sand paper sheets in varying grit 300-400 count for smoothing off support marks. https://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-XZ3601-X-ACTO-Knife-Safety/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1527015690&sr=8-6&keywords=xacto+blade
  
  Try to find the flexible sand paper sheets that are meant to be hand-used. I found them in Loews 3m brand, this is the exact type of sheets i use: https://www.amazon.com/3M-COMPANY-28320SB-UF4-320G-Sandpaper/dp/B00PPD1CYA/ref=sr_1_7?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1527015867&sr=8-7&keywords=sandpaper+320+grit+3m
  
  
• Find a source for cheap paper towels. I use the real cheap paper towels that you find in bathrooms, the stuff that's really stiff and crappy. I don't use name brands such as Bounty or whatever because the higher quality kitchen paper towels leave behind bits of cloth dust, which is unwanted for cleaning the resin vat / build plate / LCD screen. You'll also go through shitloads of paper towels and the higher quality towels are a waste of money. https://imgur.com/7XeelfV
  
  
• Get a couple sunglasses cleaning cloths. Not the microfiber cloths with the consistency of a bathroom towel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009L77OXE/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B009L77OXE&pd_rd_wg=OcvWJ&pd_rd_r=3AAAFBB1202BXG3K8QN0&pd_rd_w=cwumx That's just an example - you can probly finder cheaper and better sized/quality towels such as: https://www.amazon.com/MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-PACK/dp/B0050R67U0/ref=pd_bxgy_421_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0050R67U0&pd_rd_r=PR868R09NE2DQCC8NBVQ&pd_rd_w=0uPs5&pd_rd_wg=eAMNx&psc=1&refRID=PR868R09NE2DQCC8NBVQ
  
  I use these cloths on the LCD screen and the resin vat FEP sheet. After cleaning the resin vat FEP sheet and the LCD with paper towels, I give them a nice polish with the cleaning cloth to remove any other smudges or dust. Make sure to have a cloth dedicated to ONLY the LCD screen, as you want the keep the LCD screen pristine and free of dust and smudges.
  
  You'll also want a print curing station to harden the prints once they have been cleaned. I bought:
  
  
• A plastic cookie jar; clear plastic, round: https://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/store/product/oxo-good-grips-reg-3-piece-pop-canister-set/3262796?categoryId=12605
  
  
• UV LED Light Strip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZQZDBR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Heavy duty tape, such as duct tape or gorilla tape. I used black gorilla tape.
  
  
• Aluminum Foil
  
  

1. Wrap the LED strip around the plastic container to this effect: https://imgur.com/oB98Qxl . Make sure you wrap so that the power cable connector will be at the bottom of the container. Make sure you secure the beginning and the end of the LED strip to container with a piece of tape.
   
   
2. Wrap the LED'd container with aluminum foil - shiny side facing inward. Lay out a long piece of foil on the floor, shiny side facing up, just enough to cover the container's length once. Secure the beginning of the foil piece with a piece of tape, and then secure the end of the foil. Try to wrap without causing creases in the foil, keeping the foil as shiny and smooth as possible. Make sure your power cable plug in point is popping out and able to be plugged in.
   
   
3. Secure a piece of foil to the base, shiny side facing inward.
   
   
4. Secure a piece of foil to the lid, shiny side inward. Take a piece of tape and make a 2-sticky-sided loop to secure the foil. Make sure the foil is not interfering with the lid's ability to securely close.
   
   
5. Wrap the whole thing with your gorilla or duct tape. Make sure your power cable plug-in point is popping out and able to be plugged in.
   
   

I did that too...

I started with the masking tape under the glass. I even printed the Wedge Jack for the dip in center.

Next I replaced the glass with a mirror I purchased at Michaels crafts.

Results improved...but still had a first layer sticking problem from time to time.

Next up was the masking tape on TOP of the mirror -- I did this on the glass too. Did I forget to mention that detail? We were pretty close but removing things from tape -- ouch it was rough and always messed up the tape.

I moved on to putting this on my mirror. So far it has been the best combination of flat + adhesion and I get good prints.

I usually start first layer slow and if the print is small, I slow things down for a bit before there is a few layers down -- than I turn that knob and give it a whirl.

Some prints just like to test my patience and start off poor and I scrap and restart. Heat/cold in the room has affected my prep -- I have found 60 bed/200 tip for PLA has worked best.

If I did it all over -- given everything I have learned -- I would spend more $$ and consider a Prusa perhaps. I'd need to find out who best supported the flat bed.

Other than that the print quality of CR10S is amazing -- and prototypes are cranking out. I am building a gizmo -- and I thought it would be better to be able to just print my designs rather than get them mailed. When I look back at all this -- I think I ended up investing more time in printing than I would have waiting for the mail to arrive. But the adventure was fun.

Patience and good luck!

Improvements/add-ons

• Filament Roller Guide. You will thank yourself later to further prevent the filament from grooving an indentation where it feeds into your extruder. It utilizes bearings but its a fantastic design. I had mine for ~2 months when I started noticing the groove already being made.

• XT60 Connector clips - if you want a little "cable management"

• LCD Cable Clips - Also if you want a little "cable management". There is also an LCD Cover for the PCB to keep dust and whatnot out.

• Any fan covers you find that suit your style as you dont want filament going into the box in the bottom left (not entirely too sure what it holds).

>
>
>



Physical Upgrades

• Upgrade the bed springs as my originals started to sag a little. Not exactly sure on what the technical name for those springs are but those are the ones I purchased and I have been happy with them.

• Borosilicate glass bed. I use to use the stock mat, tape method, and hairspray method. All of those worked for a little bit but were a complete pain and mess to deal with from time to time. All I do now is use some isopropyl alcohol and clean my glass bed every once in a while but past that I require NO adhesion for my bed outside of tiny pieces that require a brim, skirt or whatever support needed to keep it adhered. As long as your print bed is leveled as best as possible (have a nice filament "squish") you will have no issues.

• Some other things you could look into if you plan to print with other kinds of filament outside of PLA would be: Micro Swiss steel nozzle, Capricorn tubing and an upgraded extruder like the e3d. Keep it simple for right now though while you learn your rigs because I strongly feel no ender 3 works the same and my preference for which program (MatterHacker, Slic3r or Cura) depends on how I feel how the model appears and how its coming out. Also, grab yourself a handful of replacement nozzles if you continue to use the brass ones. They CAN wear out if you use the printer like crazy, so its always good to have spares (also can get a variety of sizes too - standard being the 0.1mm I believe?). I snagged a pack of 10 for $5-8.

>
>
>


Last but not least, run a few bed level test prints as well. The best one that I have found which helps me dial in my printing was CHEPs bed level STL file. Video & G-Code file. I use it religiously if I ever find that my bed is out of wack.



There are a handful of other mods/add-ons you can find on Thingiverse and another website (one which we arent allowed to link to unfortunately).

I'm pretty new to this too, I bought my Ender 3 Pro around the same time as you. Quiet printing is pretty high on my list as well as being able to print high-temp exotic filaments in the long term while maintaining reliability.

First upgrades I purchased were stiffer bed springs so I would be less likely to throw the bed out of level while removing prints or working around the printer and Capricorn XS tube since it has a more consistent internal diameter, fits closer to the filament, and can work with slightly higher temps. I also picked up a pack of bowden couplers recently as I noticed the end nearest the extruder is sliding past the coupler jaws on de/retraction; don't worry about that unless it's an issue for you. That's about $30 alone since I don't have a supply shop locally and have to order those parts in bulk. I had a Pi 3B laying around unused and flashed Octoprint onto it. Highly recommended. I have a replacement Noctua hotend fan, buck converters, and 5015 blower on order to quiet the fan noise; about $32. Just replaced the Meanwell psu fan with a 60x25mm Noctua I had lying around (Note: there may be better options in the 92-120mm range to replace part of the PSU housing, but that's what I had laying around). Next upgrade coming is the SKR Mini E3 with TMC 2209 drivers ($28) to eliminate almost all of the stepper noise. Also looking into a replacement for the control board fan and some vibration isolating feet for the frame. As far as higher temp printing I haven't made a lot of progress aside from buying a titanium all-metal heat brake ($11) winch I have yet to install or inspect, and looking into enclosure and electronics relocation avenues.

Either way the mods I purchased came in at around $100 US which should quiet the printer and help with reliability. Also looking into picking up a good M3-M4 bolt kit if any exist in the US.

Here are some links to the things I picked up and will, which may be helpful if you're in the US. Mostly from Amazon.

Type | Name | Link | Price
---|---|----|----
Reliability | 8mm x 20mm yellow springs | Link | $6.98
Reliability | Capricorn XS Tubing | Link | $11.49
Reliability | PC4-M6 / PC4-M10 Pneumatic Bowden Fittings | Link | $11.99
Silence | Noctua 40mm x 10mm 3-pin fan | Link | $13.95
Silence/Various | LM2596 Adjustable Buck Converters | Link | $10.95
Silence | 24v 5015 Radial Ball Bearing Fans | Link | $7.19
Silence/Various | SKR Mini E3 w/ TMC 2209 drivers | Link | $28.81
High Temp | Titanium All-Metal Heat Brake | Link | $11.52
TOTAL: $102.88 US + Tax

Parts already purchased/ bought with printer

Type | Name | Link | Price
---|---|----|----
Reliability/High Temp | OEM Ender 3 Glass Bed | Link | $20
Reliability | Feeler Guage Set | Link | $5
Reliability | 608zz Bearings, using with this(My Remix), this, and this, though I like this design a bit better | Link | $5.98
QoL Improvement | Raspberry Pi 3B w/ Octoprint | Link | $34.46
Silence | Noctua 60mm x 25mm 3-pin fan, goes with this mod | Link | $14.95
TOTAL: $80.39 US + Tax

Future planned upgrades

• Bl Touch (Note: if you have a Pi you don't need a separate ISP to flash a bootloader to the stock Melzi control board)
  
  
• Extruder | Zesty Nimble, Bondtech BMG, or SeeMeCNC EZR
  
  
• Cooling Duct | Either Smooth Fang or Hero Me Gen 3 in PETG/ABS
  
  
• Direct Drive | Kit or Printed (this, this, or this)
  
  
• Electronics relocation enclosure and wiring (need to research this more)
  
  
• Vibration Isolation Feet with Yellow Dot Squash Balls
  
  
• Linear rails (maybe)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

upgraded carriage plate, should be one of the first things you do, the stock one is flimsy and prone to warping, making the print bed extremely hard to level reliably.

https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-SLOTTED-Cooling-Wanhao/dp/B01E1HANLS/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497736485&sr=8-1-fkmr3&keywords=i3+plus+all+metal+hotend

all metal hotend will enable you to print at much higher temp, and increase reliability of the print head. not strictly needed, but a great upgrade if you want to print abs, petg, or other higher temp filaments.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3008523062&pd_rd_wg=sUxZ5&pf_rd_r=W5Q7RV181EJYGTBW4YDJ&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B01HCVJ3K2&pd_rd_w=ZPXZq&pf_rd_i=tri+gorilla&pd_rd_r=F2X8G4XDPCVTNXX6J560&ie=UTF8&qid=1497736655&sr=1

heater bed mosfet upgrade. again, not strictly needed, but also useful for high temp filaments like abs, as you can run the heated bed at higher temps. also solves (small possibility, i3 plus supposedly fixed issue) of stock mosfet burning out and catching fire.

https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=i3+plus+cooler&sa=&dwh=295945a7ab3d0cd

print a cooling fan shroud, i use the ciiicooler, the diiicooler is great as well. preferably in abs. BIG quality improvement, the stock fan is useless.

these are some of the ones i use, and there's a lot of other things you can do, extruder gear, improved bearings, too many to count really, just a matter of how far you want to go for incremental gains. the carriage plate and the cooling fan shroud are the only strictly necessary ones though.

oh and i made my own version of this z-brace, don't have the files anymore unfortunately, but this one is fine:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1653631

that's also something you should do asap.

I got a QIDI tech one which is just a older version of this which really I don’t think there is much different between the 2. I’ll try and quickly go over some answers and if I get time later today I’ll try and answer more.

1.) this print bed over time will be scratched up from use. You can replace the surface material which isn’t overly difficult but I would look for a different scraper tool. I use something like this and another set that is similar and it’s a lot easier to get prints off the bed. : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075SLTY8B?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

2.) it’s been done though I don’t know the process to swap out the bed to glass I just always used the surface pads. I got a new printer a month ago so this one has not been in use but I picked up some gecko tech surface pad I’ll try and find the link later but it’s like the build pad on the printer now but in theory it’s supposed to release the prints after it cools down.

4.) there is no set magic print speed it varies from material and model you print with I will try and find what my last speed was when I get home.

5.) temperature is another element based on the material you use. I got some brands that prints great at 200, 205, and some that prints at 215. Just have to try and find what works.

6.) you don’t really need a brim unless you get prints that don’t have a lot of surface contact think the last time I used a brim I had like 6 wide and 2-3 layers thick but try out different settings and see what might work for you.

7.) there is a few programs out there but I see a lot suggest fusion360 which is a good program but takes a bit of work to get used to.

8.) there’s several types of slicing programs out there. Slic3r and cura are the popular free programs but I used simplify3d which is a paid program which runs $150. Is it better than the other programs not really it has its good points and bad just need to look around and see what works.

9.) never used the slicer as they released it like 6-8 months after I got my printer so I can’t say for sure.

10.) This I think is the normal for other slicers I know slic3r, and simplify3d does it I never used cura but I think it also does it as well. The one that’s looking like vines is done by meshmixer.

11.) not sure the best way to go about this one but you can adjust the scale of the print on the x,y,z in the program and use a caliper for the dimensions and trial and error from there. There’s a little more that can effect this but I can maybe go over it when I get home.

12.) for tips I can’t think of any this moment but maybe try out some of the different YouTube channels out there like makers muse and 3d printing nerd and toms3d. Each cover different areas but should have some relation to some of the questions you asked.

I’ll get home in like 5 hours I’ll try and answer more then and try and go in depth on some other things.

Thanks for making a new thread. You mentioned pre-assembled and quality/reliability over cost, but do you have a general price in mind?

Extruder

The most popular option is to just go with one of the cheap aluminum extruders. These are a considerable improvement over the stock plastic version. There isn't really much assembly involved, you will need to bolt on the extruder plate/lever and put the spring in, but it's about the most simple upgrade there is.

On the more premium end, depending on which version you buy, a genuine Bondtech comes pre-assembled. It's about $70 more expensive and the benefits are negligible, but that's an alternative.

Hotend

The two main choices for Creality machines are the V6 or Micro Swiss (or a clone), both of which do have some assembly involved.

E3D sells their V6 as a bunch of parts that you assemble yourself, but Filastruder offers it as a pre-assembled version. I believe most V6 clones come loosely pre-assembled as well. Keep in mind however that V6 isn't a direct install, you will need some kind of printed bracket / fan duct like the PetsFang to mount it.

The Micro Swiss on the other hand is a drop-in installation on Creality machines. You do have minimal assembly putting a few parts together, but it bolts up to the stock machine without any changes. I wrote a guide that covers how to do it for the Ender-3, but the Ender-5 uses the same hotend carriage design, meaning the steps are the same.

---

I would personally go with the cheap aluminum extruder and a Micro Swiss hotend. This would be a cost efficient, yet effective set of upgrades for the machine. There is minimal assembly involved, but there isn't much on the market that is 100% ready to go.

Seconding everything people have said here and want to add the following.
A glass bed with 10mil PEI from CS Hyde will do wonders for bed leveling.

Upgrade your Y plate as soon as possible, the stock one warps over enough time making bed leveling nearly impossible.

All metal hotend such as the micro swiss is amazing, no more clogged PTFE tubing, easier to clean if it does.

Z brace is a must, also print a fan cooler like the Diicooler on thingiverse. Replace the stock part cooling fan with a nice radial fan, plenty on amazon, make sure its 12v. This helps prints come out cleaner.

Yours should come with thumbwheels, if not, print some, bed leveling is easier with it.

Print some spring cups as well, keeps the springs straight and not bending when leveling the bed.

DO THE MOSFET MOD TO MAKE IT SAFE!

Watch this vid and do his printed mods https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tpcm4XEbP1Q&t=752s&list=PLyIdpN_zILcknsQzSZSiWhQ685NxkWsvD&index=2

Also, stay far far FAR away from Shaxon filament! It broke my hotend, check my post history to see the red glob of death I dealt with. I have had very good luck with eSun PLA.

Links for bought parts:
Fans: [here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJU6JR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]

Glass plate: [Here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B2YLWF9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]

Hotend: [Here(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1HANLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]

Y plate: [Here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B251KBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]

MOSFET: [here(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)] and wires [here(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017U6PGLO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]

You didn't specify if you bought a kit or fully assembled, but ill assume it's a kit ;)


-

1. Follow the online instruction. Grab yourself a laptop/tablet since online has higher res pictures and comments per steps.
   
   

• Before each step see the comments under them to see if others have had trouble or give their alternative insight on an issue.
  
  
  

2. When assembling it, make sure you are doing this all on a flat, even surface. I did this on my granite kitchen counter top just so i wont run into alignment issues during calibration
   
   
3. Once you have it built, calibrated and working, it is customary (per say) to print a 3D Benchy, to get insight if the printer needs any fine tuning.
   
   
4. Must have recommendation
   
   

• OMG get these e3d silicone socks!. I've had dozen's of successful prints and these socks have helped so much from preventing THIS
  
  
• If you plan to use exotic filament (eg: wood, metal, carbon fiber), GET A HARDENED STEEL nozzle. The stock BRASS nozzle (0.4mm) is only good on non-abrasive filament (eg: regular PLA+ABS)
  
  
• 3D Print Removal Tool Spatula
  
  
• Restock on PEI Sheets!. These are what are recommended by the community as per cost effective and reliability and i think shipping is ~$9? So get more than one for the future. The ones on amazon are !@#$ overpriced!
  
  
  
  
• (optional, didnt like the power cord being bent) Left Angle Power Extension Cord.
  
  edit: I found this on thingiverse to make the PSU cable left angled
  
  

5. Start learning (if you haven't) to use Fusion 360 (most preferred), 123D, or TinkerCAD to print you whatever creativity you have.
   
   AVOID SKETCHUP!!.
   
   
6. Once you have a successful working, printing machine, start printing replacement parts for your printer! As Josef Prusa has stated, it's ok to print the machines parts out of PLA, If you wanna go with something more durable, go for PETG. eSun PETG Orange is what i use. BUT FIRST, make sure you adjust the Slic3r setting and a few test prints to print parts in PETG since it's finicky to work it.

Sorry I can't answer all of your questions, but here's a few suggestions. Number one, a better part cooling fan. Just buy a cheap blower fan like this one, and print a radial cooling fan like this one. This should help a bit with your bottom screw holes being messy. For bigger prints this is a necessity. When it comes to getting prints off of the beds, I use a glass bed with a gluestick for adherence, and to remove prints I use this thing. Incredibly, incredibly useful. It's thin enough to get under prints without denting them, and the long design lets you move it underneath prints to free the whole this. The end is also sharp enough to scrape glue off of the printbed. Works a lot better than the scraper included with the printer.

Not much really. The benefit of buying the mk2s is that you really don't need to modify or swap anything.


Here are a few things you might want in my opinion:

• You might want some different filaments. You can stick with the brands and types that Prusa includes printing profiles for, or for other brands and types you may have to do some testing to find the right print temperature, speed, cooling, etc. Reading up on that process is a good idea.
  
  
• A paint scraper can be helpful for removing prints from the print bed, just be careful not to scratch the print surface.
  
  
• Some rubbing alcohol. Rubbing alcohol or window cleaner is what Prusa recommends to clean the PEI print bed. You can also use rubbing alcohol for this very cool trick to help loosen stuck prints
  
  
• A good set of calipers can be handy for measuring printed objects, measuring real-world objects you're trying to model things to fit, etc.
  
  
• bookmark some fun things on Thingiverse, MyMiniFactory, etc. that you'd like to print. Especially some small things that you can print quickly in your first few days/weeks with your printer that don't require painting, other parts, etc.
  
  
• I found my printer printed much better after I calibrated the Extruder and the Z-height. A decent extruder calibration process for the Prusa can be found here. The same site has some info on calibrating z-height, or I had good luck with this method. Mine was a kit though, so it's possible those are pre-calibrated with the assembled printer.
  
  
• You can buy different size and different material nozzles for the e3d hotend. Hardened steel nozzles are recommended for most of the filaments that have stuff embedded in them (carbon fiber, wood, etc) as those are really abrasive on the standard brass nozzle and can deform it internally,, causing later printing problems.
  
  
• Paint, sealant or epoxy can be useful for finishing up models. I haven't tried it myself, but I've seen pictures of some awesome results using this epoxy to give a smooth, hardened finish to your prints. Standard acrylic hobby paints are also great for color and pizzazz to your finished prints, especially more artsy stuff.

I am using a build surface called Athorbot. It sells in a package of 3 and was only $16 on Amazon. In the past I've printed with BuildTak and PEI on my other printers. I prefer BuildTak to PEI, because with PEI I'm always adding chemicals to it (IPA to clean, Gluestick to reduce adhesion with Flex, Windex to Reduce adhesion with PETG, etc.). I have no idea how good the Arthorbot sheet is, but I've seen people on this sub with it and they seem to like it, so I thought I'd give it a try. It's cheap as chips- so if it doesn't work out, no problem!

The filament I prefer for my flex parts is Sainsmart TPU. I would definitely recommend using some gluestick as /u/PuterPro mentions, because otherwise you'll never get it off, or damage your sheet. I've actually managed to tear up my PEI before because of over adhesion. To be honest, I've also ruined a BuildTak sheet with it, but that was because I was printing too close. (Fortunately, BuildTak is super easy to replace compared to PEI). To clean off the gluestick residue after the print, use a wet (water) paper towel. Don't just rub it with IPA, as it will make an even bigger mess.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

Wow, thanks for going though that!

Though I'm going with the advice that almost everyone is saying on this post and wait for the printer to arrive.

That said, I'm going to buy the dampeners anyway because I'm in an apartment that the walls are thinner than most apartments in my area. I know that it's a 3-5 db difference based on what I read, but the lower the sound, the better.

I'm going with these dampeners

​

I'm also going to get the M3 Scews anyway as well just to have spares.

> My glass was warped. I used the tape it came with to flatten it but then got the mirror.

if the glass bed is warped when it arrives, I'll get a mirror tile after making sure that the printer is working fine.

> Mine came with large knobs already. And the print bed strain relief for the wires.

I've been told now that this is the case. Though I did buy this from the GearBest US Warehouse so I don't know if what they have is the latest. though I guess I'll find out on Thursday.

> I'm still using the stock clips. Or you could print new ones.

I wasn't aware that stock came with clips! So I'm going to skip getting clips until the printer arrives.

> Maybe. I've been using a mirror from Home Depot and it's been ok. I saw the creality magnetic mounted surface was only $22 on amazon so I actually ordered that today.

Can you let me know how that goes? I was wondering about those too.

> Mine came with the upgraded extruder that works better with TPU and such. The holes already started wearing larger though where the filament fed so I got a $20 aluminum setup.

did you order those upgrades or are they on the printer?

> I'm using this new hot end vent ring too this week and been liking it. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2912394

Dumb question but are you using PLA or ABS for that vent ring? Just curious.

​

Thank you so much for the advice!

8 bit boards are the reason prints are slow. They just can't calculate fast enough for precision. Some new affordable 32 bit boards are finally starting to show up. I'm guessing Prusa will design his own 32bit board.

​

Maybe a custom E3D hotend that can produce enough heat to keep up with faster print speeds.

​

I think a more polished way of doing the nylock mod will be part of the printer. I'm quite happy with the process of the nylock mod now in conjunction with the plugin that helps with the process big time.

​

I'd love to see a larger print volume at the very least in the z axis. I swapped the smooth rod bearings out for these and that took an already quiet quiet printer to a whole new level of quiet and NO MORE OIL. They are impregnated with lubricant.

​

I'd LOVE to see a better way to mount the whole extruder assembly to the z axis rails. You can over tighten the screws and put too much tension on the bearings (both my new ones and the stock metal ones) and restrict movement enough cause homing issues. I do my best not to ever over tighten certain screws and it still happens once in a while. I've gotten used to it but a better way to mount it would be appreciated.

​

Maybe a few built in LEDs around the hotend and even a more visible nozzle end. Have the fan duct on the back side or something.

​

One last thing would be a better main board housing that better handles the cables going into the bod. Maybe two entry points so securing the cables going into the box isn't so extremely tight fitting.

​

Ok, one last last thing. No more tiny pieces/tiny 'appendages' on large parts that can easily break off. I know that may not be possible but why not mention it.

> Even if I manage to get it to stick right, the booger on the nozzle starts pulling up my first layer.

Yeah, you should really get a sock for the hotend. Get the one with a tiny hole for the nozzle. Really. Order a few today from Amazon. Today. For me, it's not worth trying to print PETG without a sock.

Also, one thing I do is print a skirt (not brim) that is three lines wide (or even more for a small model), 15 mm away from the model, and only 1 layer deep. Any snot left on the nozzle from the purge gets wiped off. HOWEVER, that can leave a snot blob on the skirt, and so (a) the skirt can get pulled away from the sheet, and (b) if if not, the second layer of the skirt can fail. That's why I print the skirt 15 mm away from the model, and only one layer. If you manage to get the skirt printed this way (even with blobs and the skirt loose), and have a nozzle with a sock, chances are pretty good everything else will work. This has increased my yield with PETG prints dramatically.

Of course, you need a clean bed, etc.

It's actually pretty amazing --- I sometimes get horrible looking skirts, with portions detached from the heatbed, big blobs, etc., and then a beautiful part printed inside the skirt.

The one downside is that the single layer skirt can be really hard to remove. I use a part I printed (for another purpose) that is shaped a bit like an air hockey striker --- it's a disk with a handle essentially. I just slide the striker against the skirt to break it free.

> Sorry, I'm just feeling pretty defeated at the moment. I wish mr prusa would stop by and tune up my printer for me.

Have hope! Try my method. But if it works, you have to post your print!

> Damn thing start streaming filament out as soon as the temp hits 205C.

That's super weird. Either it's wet, or your hotend thermistor is way off.

Is this happening on a filament change? I've actually had residual Hatchbox PLA filament squirt out of the nozzle when loading PETG. But after loading everything was fine.

Yeah, that totally blows. Do you have the glass bed?

I do. Here's what works for me and I've never damaged a print in the process.

1. Buy a better removal tool. The tool that ships with the Ender is a steaming pile of crap. I recommend this one:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075SLTY8B
   
   It's actually a set of two tools. The longer tool will rock your world! Ok, perhaps I'm overselling it a bit, but it's amazing. Unfortunately, the shorter tool sucks rocks.
   
   
2. A tiny spritz of alcohol (buy a cheapo spray bottle) along one edge of your print will magically loosen it up a bit, regardless of the current bed temperature.
   
   
3. Finally, combine 1) and 2) with one last top secret ingredient. Position the tool at just the right angle (you'll figure it out) and tap the end of it with your favorite, nearby, solid object. In my case, that's a hairbrush. Your's might be, for example, a piece of last night's rock-hard leftover pizza. In any case, with a tap or two, you should be good to go.
   
   Good luck and happy printing!

I'm not sure how much help I'll be, but I also use a Flashforge Creator Pro...

1: If you're sick of dealing with abs, just put some blue painters tape on the bed and print PLA, once you open up the thing enough and modify your settings it does PLA perfectly well.

2: PVA glue stick, (though it looks like you are already using this) helps with bed adhesion with ABS and also gives you a bit of an ablative layer for when you are scraping things back off.

3: get a print removal tool like https://smile.amazon.com/ToyBuilder-Labs-Print-Removal-Tool/dp/B00VB1U886/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494526580&sr=8-4&keywords=print+removal+tool to help pry things off the bed without destroying the sheet.

4: rafts, these really help with getting things off the bed, you waste quite a bit of plastic, but it's much easier to get things off.

5: bed level (and height) adjustment (and this really should be number 1) the little plastic sheet they give you to slide under the nozzle is of no real value, you may just be printing the first layer way too close to the bed, and absolutely squishing the filament into the bed. It is far more useful to just print a leveling pattern and then see where the bed needs adjustment and how it's extruding than to even bother with pulling the sheet out from under the head. I use this one http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:97151 and generally will tweak things until the strands are attached but will come off with my fingernails.

1. Motor stopper dampeners. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These will greatly reduce sound on your machine.
   
2. X and Y motor supports Y = https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2845950 X = https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2793110 with dampeners. This'll help alleviate belt tension on the motor/belts and quiet the pritner even more. You'll need some M3x40mm screws for this.
   
3. Flash the firmware with Marlin and enable the heat runaway options. This will stop the printer from burning down your house if a critical error occurs. https://www.printedsolid.com/blogs/news/installing-marlin-1-1-9-on-your-cr-10s-with-mesh-bed-leveling-thermal-protection-better-menu-layout-and-finally-power-resume
   
4. Add a Mirror tile to your bed. Most CR10s beds bow in the middle. Mirrors are totally flat, so just make a mirror your new print bed/print bed base.
   
5. Print the Petsfang upgrade https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439 and get a Noctua 40mm fan. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JK9GX6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and a 50mm blower fan https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You can choose if you want the 10 or 20mm noctua fans. Petsfang page says all the screws you'll need.
   
6. Print some support stuff and get some rods to make supports. This'll reduce your print height by 20mm, but it'll greatly stabilize your printer when you do large prints, alleivating weird artifacting when the print gets higher up. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2805226
   
7. Get a better Boaing tube. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I'm not sure if this is the best out there.)
   
8. A steel wear resistant nozzle if you wanna print things other than PLA/TEPG.
   
9. A PEI plate to make it much easier to get prints off. Preferably a flexible one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RDQF7KQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
10. A spool mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2440814 which will lets you use bigger spools all while greatly reducing the amount of strain on the extruder and the noise that the filliment makes when it turns.
    
11. Control box cooling fan and base. I've yet to install this one myself as I'm not sure how to wire up the fans, but this'll greatly reduce fan noise and keep the control box super cool. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729888 It'll also remove the problem where if the print goes over 300mm in height where the filiment can sometimes snap due to strain.
    
12. A BLTouch to make bed leveling automatic more or less. I've yet to install this myself. https://www.amazon.com/ANTCLABS-BLTouch-Leveling-Premium-Extension/dp/B076PQG1FF/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=bltouch&qid=1562832293&s=industrial&sr=1-3
    
    ​
    
    Anyone got any others?

Check that the screw that holds the spring arm on your extruder hasn't backed out. The first time I encountered this problem my prints looked exactly like yours and it took me a couple days to figure it out. It will keep happening too, unless you change out the extruder. It's because you can't have that screw too tight or the arm won't apply pressure. So because it's a little loose, it will slowly work out over time, and there's not very many threads engaged in that hole, so the screw can wobble around.

The cheapest fix would be to install an all-metal replacement for around $13. If you look closely at the link I posted, you'll see that the spring arm has an insert for the screw that will allow you to tighten the screw all the way down but still allows the arm to rotate. I haven't had to re-tighten that screw since I installed it. It works great. Also, if you take a 5/32" drill bit and drill out the hole on the arm itself, you can insert a short piece of teflon tubing into it that will protect the filament from the leadscrew. You can just use a regular wood bit and hand drill. Aluminum drills super easy.

Not from Prusa, but here are some other things I use over and over and over and am glad I bought. These are not affiliate links and you can probably find some of these items cheaper elsewhere:

Thin craft spatulas for removing prints: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SLTY8B (some say "never scrape using a metal tool" but these are very thin and flexible and really help with some prints)

Cleaning filament: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVIYNFW

Silicone socks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07779TP4S

Good quality hex drivers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O5014 these will make assembly and maintenance MUCH easier than the included tools. Especially the smallest one that fits the set screw in the Bondtech extruder gear really well, much better than the "decent" hex keys I already had in my toolkit

Aside from the aforementioned glass plate, there are several easy and useful mods. There's many threads going over this actually. Search around.

Get this and make some mods using the bearings. I made the Filament Guide along with a snap-in filament guide for closer to the spool. Both highly recommended.
Also using the bearings, I made a Spool Holder. Not crucial, but might save wear on extruder mechanism.

Get This or something like it and at least install the couplers instead of stock ones. I haven't replaced the tube itself yet. It requires fairly precise cutting but you can get PTFE tube cutting guides and cutters printed from thingiverse.

Get This and install it before glass bed or anything else, except for maybe a bed handle (which you can print from thingiverse. Handle isn't crucial but will help.

I haven't yet but will get:

• a better extruder (all metal or a bmg clone)
  
• a better hot-end (for printing of other stuff, like nylon if I want)
  
  Buy Spare Nozzles, including a hardened steel one if you want to do any amount of printing with wood-grain, metal or glow-in-the-dark material.

Thanks for the reply. So far I haven't touched the extruder arm screws so the should be ok but I will check them later tonight.

I have watched the gear and it looks pretty good to my untrained eye. It doesn't appear to be slipping and also doesn't look like its digging in too much. I have had the chance to check out the tube when I was cleaning out the nozzle and hot end and it looks free from any particles.

​

I have purchased https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DC594D6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_1NwwCb51ACY2Q and it should be arriving today. So I will try to use https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3203831 to stop any future issues.

​

I will go through the the procedure shown in the video you link and hopefully, this will help.

​

All of this as well as Kamilon's should hopefully resolve my issues.

Hey I also new on this, got my printer a month ago, I was super exited as everyone here when receive their printer, I read a LOT while waiting for the printer, so I heard that the stock bed springs are crappy, so I ordered this ones FYSETC Bed springs, also ordered the Aluminium Extruder feeder, and read about the leveling, the paper sheath method, which I think you should already heard about, I did it at the first time the printer gave me a nearly perfect first print (demo dog) , after a few prints and on my third print I came home just to find a mess on my printer, so I did my research again, find out it was bed adhesion, and find out that the best way was glass bed + PEI sheet was the best option, while waiting to arrive I tried to clean the stock bed sheet with mineral spirits (did have rubbing alcohol) but it worsened the adhesion, so I used one adhesion sticker that comes with the overture filament, and again flawless adhesion, at least for the first 4 prints, then again the frustration, I tried some glue stick and worked but it leaves a mess on your print so I decided to try painters tape directly onto the aluminum bed (which lucky for me it is perfectly flat) this is the best adhesion I have tried, problem is also makes a mess with the down face of the print, Finally mi Gass-PEI arrived, (3 days ago), it has a great adhesion but is not perfect, also you have to raise the Z limit switch to compensate the 5~ mm of Glass-PEI, find out that it isn't perfectly flat it has a good adhesion and leaves a very smooth down face, but at some section it does't sticks well and leaves artifacts on the down face, I'm currently working to fix this.

Sorry for the long post, need to talk about my frustration and let you know you are not alone on this, once you manage to make a good print is very satisfying, I have a PETG filament waiting to be used but I don't think is a great idea to try it until a learn more about 3D printing and the Ender.

Thanks! I got my carriage plate from Amazon, this one specifically: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B251KBS

The buildtak that came on it was awesome for about 40 days or so of print time. No issues at all, everything stuck real nice but popped off easily with a woodworking chisel. Eventually it started to wear smooth, and the plate it's attached to started to warp pretty bad in the middle. That's when I switched to glass + gluestick. btw I put my glass right on top of the old buildtak rather than try to remove it because it was really stuck on there.

As for the carriage plate, things were good for around 70 days, but eventually what happened was the original plate bent up in the corners so bad that I wasn't able to keep the bed level for more than a single print, and then suddenly I couldn't level anything at all. Since installing the carriage plate, I haven't leveled it again yet.

I'm going to suck it up and print that dii cooler too lol. Might have a friend do my first one since he has awesome cooling already.

Everything he said is spot on. I have 4 cheap Chinese printers and those are all the recommended upgrades regardless of the brand.

I recommend this power supply. It can provide 50% more power and has a cooling fan.

These mosfets have worked very well for me and lowered bed heating times significantly as well as make your printer a lot safer.

Personally I haven't had any issues with the bed connector, but maybe some epoxy or hot glue would keep the wires from moving around too much.

One of the best upgrades I did was to flash Marlin onto the board as the stock firmware is kind of crappy.
This also allows the use of a Inductive proximity sensor which makes leveling the bed significantly easier.

The bearings he recommended, the Drylin ones, will make the movements of your printer a little smoother and a lot quieter.

The belts stretch. The ones from China are rarely reinforced. I'm lazy so i just tighten them every so often. But it would be worthwhile to just start with the higher end reinforced belts.

That aside, once your printer is up and running and somewhat calibrated, head over to thingiverse and search for your printer. There are thousands of upgrades available.

Good luck!

Couple of thoughts -

• Preheat the bed to the print temp before leveling. On my MSP, the bed rises considerably depending on whether it's hot or cold.
  
• When leveling, use printer paper. Business cards are too thick, you really want that nozzle close to the bed so it's smooshing that first layer down.
  
• Preheat the bed for several minutes before starting the print
  
  Also, it will cost you some money but replacing the Y carriage and adding a good glass plate help too. I'll edit this in a sec with the links.
  
  Edit!
  
  Glass bed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B2YLWF9
  Y-carriage: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B251KBS
  
  I originally was using thermal pads between the glass and the print surface. Eventually I found I had better results by skipping the pads, peeling off the print surface, and putting the glass directly on the metal bed with small binder clips on the left and right edges. I use Elmer's purple glue sticks for adhesion and rough it up with a sanding block between prints. Make sure your Y axis rods are level, as well.
  
  Good luck!
  
  

So far working with the Anet A8 has been an extreme lesson in patience. It's honestly a bad printer but if you're willing to spend time and a little money, you can make it decent. First up should be fire safety. Immediately upgrade to the latest version of Marlin and install a mosfet for at least the bed, if not both the bed and hot end.

I would also recommend ordering new bearings before assembling the printer. The ones it comes with are pure garbage and for $10 it's an easy purchase. Another thing that might be worth investing in immediately is better belts.

After it's assembled and you can print well enough print an X belt tensioner and a Y belt tensioner. After that it might not hurt to print some braces for the weak acrylic frame. If you're hardcore about the frame check out the Anet AM8 upgrade which replaces the acrylic one with metal for about $60.

Good luck!

Here's my favorites!

Filament standoff arm to keep it from pulling straight down

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2917932

​

And Complimentary filament guide:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2894097

​

Ribbon Cable Clips:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2960375

​

I added an SD card ribbon because the micro SD location and size Sucks!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D9JIUU0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Fan cover to get rid of upwards draft, and keep little bits of filament out of the fan:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2935204

​

Immediately replace that crappy Plastic extruder with any metal one off amazon.

​

Capricorn Bowden Tube:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Powder Coated PEI Magnetic Build sheet! (Priceless!)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/trianglelab-235-X-235-ender-3-Double-sided-Textured-PEI-Spring-Steel-Sheet-Powder-Coated-PEI/33008374363.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.8.221538feJjwDlN&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_7_10065_10130_10068_10890_10547_319_10546_317_10548_10545_10696_453_10084_454_10083_10618_10307_537_536_10059_10884_10887_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_52,ppcSwitch_&algo_expid=04b2bf81-a9de-45c6-9ea4-23cf0e249943-1&algo_pvid=04b2bf81-a9de-45c6-9ea4-23cf0e249943&transAbTest=ae803_3

​

Change your fans over to Noctua fans, and the printer becomes nearly silent. (amazon)

​

I got an EZABL bed leveling kit. Doing BL Touch soon, but The EZABL has pre-configured firmware, which made life easy!

Raspberry pi zero W or 3B+ with octoprint is a must!

​

These got me into sexy print land pretty quick!

Borosilicate Glass Bed is absolutely worth it. Even when you wait for your bed to cool after printing (you should) you'll struggle removing parts with Ender 3 print surface. With that borosilicate glass, you'll get a perfectly flat surface that will release parts easily after cooling.

The line down the left hand side is now defaulted in the Cura 3.5.x printer profile. You can modify the start and end gcode under Settings > Printer > Manage Printer. The cura folks adapted it from another person who posted it on Youtube and then modified it to improve it a bit. For instance it now starts both bed and the element at the same time.

Finally, Cura 3.5.1, while supposedly fixing the Ender 3 Printer Profile, is still pretty shakey. It doesn't seem to render good gcode. I've switched back to 3.4.1... more of a PSA than resposne to your question.

Our 3D print removal tool or any other similar long-reaching palette knife is useful to remove prints and for setting consistent nozzle gaps.

Just don't use it as a pry-bar to try to pry the entire print off all at once. Instead, incrementally separate the print off the bed. As can be seen by our Amazon reviews

A hot glue (so you'll need a gun) can rescue a lifting print from continuing to lift - if caught early, it can save a huge print job, and can come off the plastic cleanly with just a little bit of practice.

A portable butane torch is great if you want to thoroughly burn off PLA and ABS crud off nozzles - in most cases, though, just get a spare nozzle. For switching out nozzles, you'll want the appropriate nut driver or wrench to make it easier to remove the nozzle.

I had a problem somewhat similar at times. My ender 3's bed was a bit warped. The buildtak surface worked well (never used tape) but yes, prints were a bit difficult to get off without scraping and damaging myself or the bed surface sometimes. So i bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F6CLTD7/
And it has changed everything. As long as you get the bed heated up to 60 degrees (and let it sit for a short bit to make sure the actual glass is that temp) you will get fantastic, flat, first layers. And prints that pop off on their own once the glass cools down. Warning, make sure the nozzle doesn't scratch the glass and don't use sharp spatulas on it. I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SLTY8B and they work perfectly. Thin, not sharp, flexible, pops things off no problem, even if the bed isn't cooled down.

Hold the glass to the bed with some tiny binder clips. Just make sure the print head doesn't run into the clips and you're good. I ended up changing out the cooling set up so that i had a thinner profile around the extruder to make sure i lost less print area due to the clips. I printed this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2911981 and like it, but there are many other fang style ones out there.

For leveling i use a piece of printer paper, folded over. Took calipers to it and it's about .2mm in that set up and i level just so the nozzle scratches the paper (not holds it) and that seems to work for me.

Those couplers are trash and so is the PTFE tube they sent. They may work for a while but you'll want to swap them sooner rather than later. Here's a list of upgrades you'll probably want to do. You'll also want to look up a tutorial on how to upgrade your firmware so you can activate safety features (thermal runaway protection specifically). This also doesn't include a BLTouch or EZABL (auto bed levelers) as I have yet to make a choice personally.

Couplers and Tube:
SIQUK 3 Pieces Teflon Tube PTFE... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPJHRTQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Metal Extruder: ( original plastic one will wear out or break)
Ender 3 Creality 3D Upgrade... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSS8FRQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Bed Springs: (more than needed but oh well)
SIQUK 16 Pieces Heated Bed... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K9PBML5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Glass Bed: (goes on top of print bed which is usually warped, printing on an uneven surface not so bueno)
Creality Upgraded 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DS2LZF1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Raspberry Pi 3B+ for OctoPrint: (still need microsd card for it I believe)
CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC6WH7V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Stepper Motor Dampers: (silences the motors, no more sounding like dial up internet lol will need to print mounts from thingiverse)
Upgraded NEMA 17 Stepper Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DNT72SF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Heat Sinks For Stepper Motors: (once stepper motors have dampers and aren't attached to the metal frame, they can get a little hot)
40mmx40mmx10mm Black Radiator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KWVGGGK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hot end silicone sleeve: (may not need, mine came with one instead of the old insulation)
Creality Original 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HNXJ39T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Extra Filament: (ender 3 only comes with a small sample "spool", this is just a brand I use and have had decent results with. The metallic silver hue shows off detail well)
3D Printer PLA Filament 1.75MM... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME7YUIU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Extruder: get a microswiss hotend for it will be able to print flexible and other materials.
Parts cooling: Upgrade to the petsfang 5015 mod for better print cooling.
Auto bed leveling: Get the TH3D ezabl sensor for great bed leveling.
Other mods: motor dampers to reduce noise and vibration
To smoothers to smooth prints
Raspberry pi for octoprint
All metal extruder
Capricorn tubing
Hope I could help 😀
Links:
micro swiss hotend
petsfang part
ezabl sensor
motor dampers
tl smoothers
octoprint link
all metal extuder
capricorn tubing



Also this is what my petsfang with sensor looks like. https://i.imgur.com/sQahB69.jpg

Get some essential tools: those wire cutty clipper things (for cutting support structures off your prints) and a painter's scalpel for peeling prints off the heatbed.

Consider getting the upgrade kit for the ender 3 pro sometime; the flexible removable heatbed is a HUGE convenience for getting prints off and cleaning the heatbed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072WS3M9H

This angle bend is EXTREMELY helpful. You don't have to get this specific product, but trust me that you want a tool like this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A81FXMK

The scalpel I bought isn't for sale anymore but this one looks good enough.

these are the bushings that most people talk about for this printer. Igus doesn't make sleeved bushings that can fit as a drop-in replacement for the LM8UU bearings. IIRC last time I did the research, I found they do sell sleeved bushings that will fit in the Prusa (as in they have the correct outer diameter and length), but not with the correct inner diameter needed for the stock smooth rods. So if you went that route you'd need to not only get new bushings across the board, but you'd also need new rods everywhere too, and that pushed the cost up to about $75 when I last looked.

Honestly for the price I'm not really upset that I tried them, but I absolutely learned to just stick with stock unless it's giving me major issues.

Getting the y axis to move smoothly was a challenge, as the stock u-bolts would squeeze it vertically and leave wiggle room horizontally, which would allow the plate to cock sideways a bit and bind. With some finagling I was able to get it working, but there was a lot more resistance than I would have liked, it was consistent resistance across the whole range of movement, but it was still more than I wanted. The X axis I never got them fully working, as ANY force parallel to the smooth rods (but slightly offset in one direction) would cause binding by cocking the x carriage one way or another.



But don't let me be all doom and gloom, if someone is able to get them working and can talk about their experience, I'd love to hear! And I'm sure there are people out there who value the silence they provide over some unreliability or increased maintenance/tuning required, but I was overall unhappy with them and I won't try it again.

Nice ! I can see you've done your homework lol, all good choices. I'll just give you a few suggestions then since you've pretty much got it covered. The springs I used on my enders were these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FY47BX7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You might need longer screws, not sure about that, but you can get those at any hardware store, probably around 35mm m3 screws should do the trick. And the motor vibration dampers i used were these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 you don't need them on the z-axis, just the x and y. As far as smoothers go, I think the creality boards currently use a4988 stepper drivers, so you'd probably not see any benefit from tl smoothers. I'd definitely recommend the glass bed, since ender 3 print beds are almost always warped to some extent which can make leveling the bed a real pain in the ass. The hardened steel nozzle is cool, just be aware it's not as good at transferring heat to the filament as a brass nozzle, so it prints slower, and it's only useful if you're planning on using abrasive filament like carbon fiber or glow in the dark filament. Pla, petg, wood pla, and abs don't need it. You can actually print anything you want with a brass nozzle, you'd just replace it more often depending on how much abrasive filament you use. Also, don't know which fan shroud you're planning on, but the bullseye is very good and it uses the stock fan : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439

Sorry about the wall of text lol.

>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F1K1LTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (a bit more than 20$ now sorry! lol)

You get enough from these two products to upgrade more than one printer as well, I love capricorn tubing, I wish it was just standard with every printer also just double checking that you're using 1.75mm filament I don't know the CR10 that well if that's an option that wont work with these products if you're using a larger filament. Good Luck!

Hotend replacement:
I replaced the stock hotend/PTFE tube setup with an all-metal Micro Swiss hotend ($50):Amazon link to the Micro Swiss all-metal hotend kit: https://amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1HANLS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bed leveling:

1. Most importantly, I purchased a glass bed to eliminate the never-really-level printbed.Amazon link to the borosilicate glass bed ($25): https://amazon.com/gp/product/B07BHG5HCV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
2. Since that didn't I completely fix the warped bed issue, I also replaced the aluminum Y-carriage underneath with a thicker, stronger carriage and my bed leveling is now perfect. I still re-level before every print just in case, and now never have leveling-related problems.Amazon link to the aluminum Y-carriage ($28): https://amazon.com/gp/product/B07B251KBS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   Frame Stabilization:
   I printed the parts, and purchased the hardware at Home Depot for the Z-brace mod, which stabilized the printer frame:Thingiverse link for Z-brace mod for I3 Plus: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1653631(note the original Thingiverse link in comments, which is required for the other Z-brace parts: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:921948)
   
   Cooling:
   I printed a Dii Cooler in PETG and replaced the stock cooler with one of those 24V "squirrel cage" fans, which provided much better cooling for all sides of my prints. Before that it really only cooled the front of prints, leaving the sides and especially the rear of prints looking pretty bad.Thingiverse link for Dii Cooler for i3 Plus: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1025471

I struggled with adhesion for the first couple weeks of printing. Then I swapped my stock bed for a glass + PEI combo. Got the flatness of the glass + the adhesion of the PEI. Once the plate cools down a few degrees, the parts come right off. No need for sticky hairspray to get things to stick, and no need to put the bed in the freezer to get things to unstick. Best upgrade I’ve made on my ender 3 (~$30 total). Always wipe down with isopropyl alcohol in between prints for best adhesion.

Tip: I also recommend gently wet sanding the PEI. Helps with adhesion and creates a very nice matte finish on the first layer.

Glass Bed:
Nearly Natural 4855 35in.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

PEI:
Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I use a thin metal spatula for removing prints from the bed. It often tears the masking tape, but that's OK - That encourages me to put down fresh tape, and fresh tape makes for better prints.

Here is a list of things that people will always need, I understand you can't stock everything as overhead is an issue with retail, and storage as well, but most of these are small enough that they can occupy the shelf space you currently have. As for the larger things, like the 2020 extrusions, you could sell them in common lengths of 500mm and 1000mm and let the customer cut them down to the size they need, or just don't carry these at all. It's not a niche item, but for a retail store like you it would be hard to store and maintain, but man, would it be nice to be able to get those locally if i needed a piece for a project instead of having to wait on mail order.

• PSU 12v/24v
  
• Fans 30mm/40mm in 12v/24v
  
• PEI 200mm, 250mm, 300mm for Deltas and 300x300 for Cartesian, CoreXY.
  
• E3D Hotends
  
  • v6
    
  • Volcano
    
  • Titan Aero
    
  • Nozzle Variety Pack
    
  • Thermistors
    
  • Pro Socks
    
  • Heater Cartridges
    
  • Volcano Nozzles
    
  • Heat Breaks
    
• Boro Glass
  
• Spatulas similar to this style
  
• Plastic Razor Blades
  
• Capricorn PTFE Tubing 1.75/3mm variants
  
• Screws, Cap head, M3, M4, M5 etc.
  
• 2020 Extrusion, 2040 Extrusion etc
  
  this is just a basic list, others have listed other things as well, Steppers, Belts, Pulleys, Bearings etc. If you want 3d printing as a reason for other people to go to your store, these items will satisfy the need. Just keep prices fair, I have no issue paying a bit more compared to amazon to get it today.
  

I can't say this is what the "best" method is, just what has worked for me in the past:

• Coat with epoxy and/or use epoxy putty to deal with any large gaps or to make up for rough edges.
  
  
• Let it dry overnight
  
  
• Then LOTS of sanding. So, so much sanding. I honestly love this part, so carthartic.
  
  
• Spray paint automotive primer. I think the reason it has to be this specific type is because it does a good job of filling in the cracks and holes. I also give it a few rounds of sanding with a 220 grit sandpaper after priming to give it a silky smooth surface (yes, you can sand this type of primer!)
  
  
  My biggest gripe with 3D printing was that the ridges were always present. This process makes it so the ridges are non-existent and easier to paint!
  
  Edit: I should mention I've mostly worked with large scale cosplay props. This process might not work for everything, like you probably don't need to put epoxy on small stuff.

Most people are telling you it can't be done, but the truth is there are food grade filaments and techniques for printing food safe parts. I don't recommend you do this, but at the same time I'm happy to provide the following information.

• Don't print with a brass nozzle, as it probably contains lead.
  
• PETG is food safe, and can be sterilized.
  
  https://all3dp.com/food-safe-3d-printing-material-filament-plastic/
  
  https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/overview-food-safe-3d-printing-materials
  
  Slightly related, I've emailed Smooth-On to confirm their XTC-3D is not food grade.
  

Watch this video to help with assembly. The included instructions are full of engrish and hard to follow. This guy makes it easy, and adds some handy tips. If you're not replacing the bowden tube immediately (you don't need to, but it's a cheap and relatively easy upgrade), skip the steps in his video where he removes the tube and its couplers.

Read this comment for my advice on how to level the bed. Leveling is a misnomer - you don't want it level compared to gravity, but compared to the gantry. The usual advice involves sliding a piece of paper under the nozzle as a feeler gauge. That'll get you close - the steps in my comment will get you just about perfect.

Once you've done that, this fan shroud is one of the few things I'd call an essential upgrade. Also a glass bed.

Not sure if this is the 'PDF' you speak of, but best place is here: http://manual.prusa3d.com/c/Original_Prusa_i3_MK2_kit_assembly because you get high resolution images and can read comments against each step that other builders have made during their builds. Lots of good hints & tips there, plus a video from Joseph about calibration.

Edit: Buy one of these for bed-removal of objects: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VB1U886/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And a pack of these to clean your bed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KJ6U8NE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nozzles

PTFE. This is the cadillac option. Cheaper tubing is very cheap, like $5 for 5 feet or something.

I didn't mention these as I haven't installed them, but stepper dampeners. Please see the stickied thread on /r/ender3 about these, if you want to order them!

The springs I ordered. Note: I couldn't quite replace the one where the wires attach to the bed. I didn't play around too much, I just left that one on there. The other three have held solid, and the next time I'm adjusting my bed, I'll try to put that one on there as well.

Hope that helps!

Edit: Reddit markdown not liking my links, I'll try to fix them

I'm noticing a trend involving multi-tailed foxes...

Very cool, but I have a question. Do you think the filament would still be sensitive enough to heat if it was coated in epoxy such as this stuff to give it a nicer, more "sculpture"-like finish? It'd be fun to have something like this, but I typically do everything I can to obscure print lines on display pieces. Can't prime or paint this though, obviously.

What you absolutely MUSTTTTTTT!!!! order? Nothing. The printer works as is. But if you want to do yourself a favour, here's a list of what I consider essentials:


- New springs, both bed and extruder. I don't have a link for an extruder one as I upgraded my entire extruder drive frame and that came with a better spring

- A new removable bed. Creality glass bed or glass with a PEI sheet is my bed of choice

- Thermal pad to avoid the annoying bed clamps. Cut squares out of it, lay them in a checkered pattern alternating between thermal pad and nothing and place your bed on top. They will hold the bed in place and help with heating

- Stepper dampers if your printer is anywhere near where you spend your time, it sounds like a bloody jackhammer right out of the box

- New tube fittings, the stock ones are terrible and will give out in a matter of weeks at best. They also barely hold onto the tube

There are a ton of other great upgrades, but I think a good idea is to get a feel for it yourself.

What you can do, however, is check out some printable upgrades. I have this thread where people contributed with their choice of printable upgrades. It's a great list you can refer to later. Essentials on that are the fan guard and LCD back cover simply because the Ender 3 as is has the fan and back of the LCD exposed and that makes it crazy vulnerable to dust and gook damage

Actually, the parts are pretty standard, so it doesn't really matter where you buy from.

I bought them from various sources (electronics markets, amazon, and some local shops), so my links are just to be seen as examples:

• PSU Switching Power Supply 400W 12V 33A for 3D Printer Kits 115V/230V S-400-12 (got mine locally for 20€)
  
• MOSFET BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer or alternatively TriGorilla 3D Printer Heating Controller MKS MOSFET for Heatbed Extruder MOS Module (this one is huge, but powerful)
  
• Power socket & switch https://www.amazon.com/URBEST-Module-Switch-Certification-Socket/dp/B00ME5YAPK - here any 10A 250V 3 Pin IEC320 C14 type will do
  
• T-Belt RepRap Champion 5 Meter 6mm Width GT2 Timing Belt for Reprap Delta 3D Printer Kossel Rostock
  
• Pulleys BIQU GT2 20Teeth 3mm Bore Aluminum Timing Belt Idler Pulley for 3D Printer 6mm Width Timing Belt (Pack of 5pcs)
  
• Bushings 3D Printer Solid Polymer LM8UU Bearing 8mm shaft - Igus Drylin RJ4JP-01-08 for Anet A8 Prusa i3 3D Printer RepRap (warning: you need 8 pcs of these bushings. Couldn't find any listed offer with 8)
  
• Borosilicate Glass Signstek 3D Printer MK2 MK3 Heated Bed Tempered Borosilicate Glass Plate 2132003mm
  
  Printed upgrades:
  
  
• Z-Endstop for 3mm Glass
  
• Improved Fan duct or Fan duct for Anet A6 because my original fell out and killed a print as well as the fan mounting plate
  
• PSU cover
  
• Y-Belt holder
  
• Table nut and cover spring
  
• Anet A6 Dual Mosfet Holder (works only for the small MOSFETs)
  
• Z-axis calibration spacer (not really necessary but nice to have) - print two
  
  There is one small error in the assembly videos: The bed mounting plate (the H-shaped thing) is mounted upside down in the video. The bar that goes across the axes and connects both outer plates should be under the plates, not above as in the assembly videos.
  

I've been experimenting with different things.

Plastruct Plastic Weld makes a pretty solid bond. The only time I've had trouble with it is lately while trying to bond sections of a sword blade that are 0.3" thick and 3" wide. The sections with the most stress on them can snap if I let it flex enough.

I used Gorilla Glue to glue together pieces that left gaps. It expands and fills, so that was handy. The bond seemed strong, so I'm going to try that on the blade pieces next.

I've also used Loctite gel control super glue and it worked fairly well, but I don't believe the bond is as strong as Plastic Weld.

As for finishing prints, my current method is to use XTC 3D to smooth the print. After that, I prime, sand, and paint using spray paints. I will probably get an airbrush soon to try for nicer looking paint jobs.

For assembly, follow the videos, not the written instructions (if you have them).

As far as mods, at the very least get mosfets like this and also search in this sub for ways people improved their print quality. I know for a fact others will recommend more mods.

Just a heads up, you picked a controversial printer. I have had luck with mine, but it's not perfect and many people are going to let you know that. Be safe, and happy printing!

I actually replaced my whole extrusion path.

First, I found that the spring in the stock extruder assembly would fatigue resulting in under extrusion and jams. The BMG is a little pricey but worth it IMO. Comes with pretty good instructions.

Second, I switched to a Micro-swiss all metal hot-end. I probably didn't need to do this - given I almost never print high-temp materials but did it anyway.

Last, cheapest, and not least, Capricorn Tubing. Do not underestimate the difference this can make.

If you're up to the challenge, I highly recommend a BLTouch. It completely solved my first layer woes (warped bed on my CR-10s).

i have an ender 3 pro and after saying no to any upgrades I finally started to see what everyone is talking about 6 months down the road. here is a list of things that you will see a lot of you tubers tell you to replace. the YouTube channel Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors is a great resource for everything about the ender 3.

1. new boden tube and couplings that are alot better to use then stock https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DC594D6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. THIS IS A MUST HAVE! a new metal extruder (eliminates a crap ton of extrusion issues) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JZ374W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. Glass bed (best bed adhesion with 0 cleanup) this is optional but does solve a ton of issues down the road https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JKGNB6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
4. extra nozzles in a variety of sizes (not needed but nice to play with different sizes and to clear any clogs fast you can just replace the nozzle....i run .2, .4, and .8) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JPZ7TNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   the YouTube Chanel Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors has a step by step build guide for your ender 3 ( i used it for mine) he will recommend most of this list as well. He also has other videos on the slicer settings you will use for Cura. for D&D models you can use this google doc list https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1PemvBH7LC-hm4KoeA8OXVu5_k963Vpmw7kOEA_1tzWs/edit?pli=1#gid=0

Hi, I have the tempered glass one with ridges, they don't say it needs anything. I think If you use a glue-stick on it would stick forever. When I had it placed good it worked without anything, but something happend and it unleveled itself.
https://www.amazon.com/Creality-3D-Platform-Tempered-235x235x3mm/dp/B07FSM8DK9/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ender+3+glass+bed&qid=1566487149&s=industrial&sr=1-4

The idea on using the glass to space it is great! I will try it!

Thankyou for respoding :)

I LOVE MY ENDER 3'S. I have one running stock everything (except the bed) and the other is well, an ender 3 in name only now. (I know you mentioned you are in the EU, but I have provided links to my sources for US based distributors)

Printer setup:

Ender 3

MKS (MKS GEN L V1.0)

TMC (2208's)

Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend ( MS all metal )

Custom Modified heater block (installed 300°c heater cartridge and 450°c capable thermistor from slice engineering) (heater) & (thermistor)

Bantamfeeder Extruder ( bantam design ) ... will be changing this out soon when I decide what next. Works well just not my cup of tea for convenience purposes.

Bullseye Duct ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439)

3-point bed conversion for leveling made easy (Leveling guide and 3 point leveling adapter). HERE IS A COMPLETED DESIGN OF THESE CHANGES( My bed setup ... < < < this is my stock ender 3)

Borosilicate glass bed w/ PEI (Glass bed & PEI Sheet)

PSU (Mean Well NES-350-24 24V 350 Watt UL Switching Power Supply 120 Volt)

​

OCTOPRINT SERVER

RPI 3b+ (raspberry pi w/ octoprint)

Pi Cam (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L2SY756/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

​

So now you see why I say not really an ender 3 anymore, only in name

I bought a BLTouch a few weeks ago a love the dam little thing. I got this one on Amazon that came with extension cables from 1-2 meters: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PQG1FF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The connection for the cable ends are "Dupont" like others have said before. You can but them for cheap on Amazon, if you don't like those type strip the wire and I say use Pitch JST-SM connectors.

I was going to get the ezabl kit but after watching a lot of videos are reading things people said BLTocuh is best for glass best because the ezabl can get bad reader from glass.


Edit: Oh and while installing the BLTouch a lot of guides say strip pin 29 wire from the LCD cable so the BLTouch can use it, but you dont want to do that buy this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/CR-10-Ender-3-Pin-27-Board-for-BLTouch-or-filament-sensor-BL-Touch-Creality/302960671554?hash=item4689dcfb42:g:GOIAAOSw~JFcM50B:rk:1:pf:0

Second - some Amazon links for the upgrade pieces I mention:

Springs - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SDDHYN4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bowden Tube - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Couplings - https://smile.amazon.com/Dorhea-Straight-Pneumatic-Fittings-Accessories/dp/B07NSRCH2W/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=3d+printer+fitting&qid=1574436375&sr=8-15

Extruder - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JZ374W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

PEI Sheet - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSJSDWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Stepper Motor Dampeners - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bootloader Flashing Kit - https://smile.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Bootloader-Flashing-Duplicator/dp/B07S5BBLKM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=arduino+uno+ender+3+kit&qid=1574436535&s=industrial&sr=1-3

Note that I didn't buy this flashing kit, but this one seems to have everything you need to get a bootloader onboard the Ender. What happens is you go through a bunch of steps to attach this so the printer and then put a bootloader onto the Ender 3 board. You only have to do that one time, then you can update the firmware as often as you want - typically via a USB cable. I have Octoprint installed, so I can flash my firmware on my basement printers from my upstairs computer using wifi. Super easy and handy.

Your hot end is not able to extrude the amount of filament you are trying to push into it.

you need to do one (or more) of the following:


the hot end hotter. ^1
to print slower. ^1
to sort out a clog (either full or partial.) ^2
calibrate the E steps and flow rate. ^3




----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

^1
Not all filaments are made equal, I've had rolls of PLA that print fine fast at 210, then others that will gum up the hot end at speed. The printer takes time getting up to speed so some filaments look fine when printing slow or small models. Long paths show this failure I've had filament refuse to print cleanly unless the hot end is set somewhere on the upper side of 225-235 - going to extremes with temp should only be considered after ruling out a clog e.g. a/b the misbehaving filament with another brand and have the other brand work fine at the lower temps/same speed.


^2
(make sure to replace the stock bowden couplers they are crap allow the tube to back out and will cause no end of clogs, something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DC594D6/)
Follow this video on how to replace the nozzle paying close attention to the temperature everything is done at and the procedure to make sure the tube is snug with the nozzle. (to loose and you get goo, too tight and you'll squish the bowden tube and get clogs) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRzsGttNMyk
If you need to clean your nozzle (a big bag of 0.4 nozzles is a worthwhile investment and you can find them cheap on amazon) hold the nozzle in pliers and cooking off everything over a gas burner, use cocktail sticks to remove the majority of the gunk, get the rest out with the acupuncture needle the printer came with. - Needless to say this is all very hot and the plastic can catch fire and drip, so do it somewhere or over something non flammable and easy to clean, I do it over a ceramic stove top with gas burners.


^3

https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/

I'd make an addendum to the above instructions, ideally E-steps should be calibrated without filament running to the hot end, and the altered steps would look something like:

hot end at temp
remove filament completely
undo the bowden coupler
insert filament slightly into feeder,
cut filament flush at the hole the bowden coupler was in
extrude, measure, math, set e-steps,
cut filament flush
extrude, measure, math, set e-steps, save settings.

This way completely removes any sort of partial clog, variance in filament diameter size or issues downstream from the feeder assembly.

• Get some 99% isopropyl alcohol. I get it from amazon.
  
  
• And definitely checkout this guide on getting your bed level. It will save a lot of headaches.
  https://github.com/PrusaOwners/prusaowners/wiki/Bed_Leveling_without_Wave_Springs
  
  
• Nozzle socks are good, can make life easier after a catastrophe.
  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-E3D-Socks-Pack-V6-SOCK-PRO-3PACK-x/dp/B07779TP4S
  
  
• As for filament, Hatchbox , eSUN, and Amazon brands have been working great for me.

That's a very good point. I'm confident in my soldering skills, I neglected that others may not be. I have seen a few FET's out in the wild. I'm not sure if they are all created equally.

I'm aware of the reprap one:
http://www.reprap.me/power-expander.html
and the Amazon Trigorilla one:
https://www.amazon.com/TriGorilla-Printer-Heating-Controller-Extruder/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482884825&sr=8-1&keywords=3d+printer+mosfet

Can anyone chime in on the best Mosfet solution for those that don't have the skills or want to possibly void their warranty?

problems so far havent really been anything serious, i bought the upgrades before i even built it so i cant really talk for the stock version

Upgrades i bought for it

• Silicone Heated Bed From Folgertech($25)
  
• Tri Gorilla Mosfet($19)
  
• Custom cut piece of glass from lowes ($6)
  
• Microswiss CR10 All Metal Hotend bought the CR10 version because they use the exact same hotend and its a direct replacement
  
  other than that havent really had any problems with it its been a great printer so far, i am going to start printing some upgrades for it soon but its printing really nicely so far, if you do end up getting it ive got my s3d profiles i could email you ive got them looking pretty good, the retraction was one of the longest settings to get dialed in for me as this is my first bowden tube printer
  
  if you have any more questions let me know

I got this one. I started with a glue stick but found out just washing soap and warm water provides great adhesion. I did increase bed temp to 70 from 60 also.

https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Tempered-235x235x3mm/dp/B07F16WPR5?ref_=bl_dp_s_mw_17936569011

There are a lot of variables in play here, but I strongly recommend getting the upgraded carriage plate from Gulfcoast Robotics (fka RepRap Champion).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07B251KBS/

Not only will it improve initial leveling, it will hold level longer. The stock carriage plate is prone to warping and may be the twisted component that is throwing things off for you.

I have the Athorbot surface on two CR-10S printers and I love it. I had been cutting them down to fit my Ender 3 for a while. Then I bought a TH3D EZMat for my Ender 3 and fell in love. I'll probably get EZMats for the CR-10s when the Athorbots wear out. EZMat has a little more grip and seems to me a bit more durable.

Directly. Creality 3D Printer Platform Heated Bed Build Surface Tempered Glass Plate for Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer 235x235x3mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FSM8DK9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_s9RvDbM16RZ7Y is the one I got. It has a coating on it. I have been extremely happy, though it took me another 15 minutes to relieved since it’s thicker and you gotta reset everything.

Only real change is you should wait for it to cool before pulling stuff off, but once it cools, it doesn’t stick. Like... at all. It’s quite nice. Also, it doesn’t warp, which I only found out after, because I was only after a new bed and figured I’d upgrade. Then I read about it ;)

Do you mean the little blue clips? They've been coming with those for a number of months, but yeah, do yourself a favor and just get some better quality pieces to begin with. This is what I'm using, as an example.

Thanks for the detailed reply.

​

I need to read more to understand the z switch and z screws you are referring to. I have no idea what those are. I assembled by watching some channel on youtube do it. It was like a tales from the crypt vibe channel.

​

As much as it sucks, I probably need to completely disassemble it and start over. There has to be something done incorrectly for it to be this difficult. I am definitely going to get one of those gauges before I get back into. I returned the springs today and ordered different springs on amazon. When they get here, I might sit down one night and try again.

​

As for the bed, the glass one I got was scratched to hell from those stupid springs. I didn't know I had to raise or lower whatever switch you were talking about. Like I said earlier, I already ordered a SD card reader so that will be a definite mod. As for the octopi, is there a list somewhere on this subreddit of everything you need to purchase before starting? I have a raspberry pi at the house. I originally bought it to build a retropie but I haven't gotten around to it yet. I could use it for the printer if needed. I really like the idea of remote printing, having a webcam to see the print live, and putting a part on there that stops the print if there is a filament issue.

​

I have to go into the city tomorrow so I was thinking of stopping by ikea and getting some Lack Tables for the eventual enclosure but now I don't know if I am even going to keep the Ender 3. I am debating on returning it and moving up a tier. I really want to get started on this but it seems like I am never going to be able to print any of this awesome stuff. So many awesome files on thingiverse and I can't use any of them.....

​

Here are the parts I have purchased so far....

​

SD Card Extension

​

Glass Bed

​

Springs that I bought that would not lower bed enough

​

Most Recent Springs I am going to try

​

Metal Extruder Upgrade

​

Filament Black and Red

My advice (first of all) is to install ADVi3++ if you haven't, the bed-leveing function (under the Tuning menu I think) is pretty good.

Some general advice for the actual leveling process:

• Start with the knobs tightened enough that the nozzle is too high everywhere and work from there.
  
• Underturn each knob during the leveling process. Loosening the knobs adjacent to a corner you're leveling will affect that corner somewhat - e.g., loosening the front left and back right knobs will also lower the bed for the front right corner, so if you adjust the front right corner knob fully, when you loosen the other knobs, the bed will be too close in that corner.
  
• Keep making minor adjustments, keeping in mind which corners are high/low, until a piece of paper can be slid under the nozzle with some friction.
  
  If things still aren't leveling:
  
  
• Mess with your z-axis motors. I actually just used a normal level for this, which worked for me, but you may require more experimentation.
  
• Adjust your z-endstop. Especially if you've put a glass bed in place, you may have set your endstop too high or too low to effectively level the bed. Ideally, you want the knobs to be about in the middle of their range while the bed is level. If the knobs are too tight or too loose, wonky things can happen (bed can get pulled sideways slightly)
  
• If all else fails, you probably have a warped y-carriage. Mine is warped slightly, and leveling is harder for me than it should be. You can get a replacement y-carriage here, and you can follow this video to replace it.
  
  Once you can actually get things level, I highly recommend getting some M3 nyloc nuts and replacing the default bed leveling knobs with these. They don't look as nice as the metal/stock ones, but it will prevent vibration/movement from de-leveling your bed as quickly.
  
  Good luck!

There is This glass bed with a coating on to that helps stuff to stick. I have it worked for a bit but after about a month stuff would not stick and I started to use hairspray to keep stuff stuck and its working great now. Here it is on amazon as well

Hey Omnioji,

I am a big fan of yours, would love to help, but some more info would be needed.

I know you say FDG profile, but some things in those profiles are also kinda fluid and need to be adjusted by you. So in particular, what is your print temperature? What are your retraction settings?

One simple fix which would likely give you some improvement would be to upgrade your bowden tube to a smoother PTFE Tube which causes less friction on the filament and therefor reduces stringing.

I've had good results with the standard .4 nozzle. As long as it prints clean, I've had more success putting effort into post-processing. This stuff does wonders for painting. I've printed minis on .5 and .6 nozzles with similar results in quality.

Here's the aluminum extruder assembly. The plastic one that comes on the printer WILL break. It's just a matter of time. They crack from stress after a while and even before that they creep and you'll start getting missed extrusion.

Here's the stiffer bed springs. You won't have to compress these as much to get a good stiffness.

Another really popular upgrade is this glass build plate. It has a special coating that makes it so parts stick without adhesive, and it leaves a really smooth surface on your prints. Parts stick really well then when it cools down they self-release.

The 3 upgrades I linked are extremely popular upgrades. You can get by without the glass bed, it's just an option because the stock bed will wear out eventually.

Nice! I'm sure that'll look awesome. I suggest using bondo to fill cracks and divits and XTC-3D or a similar epoxy to cover the entire piece to smooth it out.

This is the one that I got: Title of link (optional) I got a metal extruder housing as well but I honestly don't think it's necessary, just nifty.

My best results have been prints in clear resin, but "transparent" PLA can be enhanced as well.

I bought the following:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PFXK4JY

You mix it like epoxy, and lightly coat the outside. I use my hands (with gloves). It removes minor blemishes, and makes for a "smoother, shinier" part.

It is not for everyone; sometimes I prefer the "frosted" look on a part.

PRO TIP: Buy a box of thumb tacks. Put a bunch of them point up so your part can dry without sticking to anything.

I just have the Creality glass bed from amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FSM8DK9/

It's been fantastic. Assuming your bed is properly leveled you don't even need to use adhesive, just make sure to clean it every once in awhile.

+1 for the silicone sock! I am now running those and they are great! Here is what I ordered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07779TP4S I think you will be okay to heat up your hotend, the thermistor wires are definitely not going anywhere.

Seconding ChituBox, it's a lot better at supports and just overall usability.

Also, I've had zero issue removing prints from the plate by using a thin metal scraper. The one I've been using is here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK

The shorter one is perfect for getting under prints with a little bit of force.

You can just replace the gear, but this is cheaper and better if you haven’t upgraded yet, or get them both 😁


Creality 3D Printer Parts 5PCS Brass Extruder Wheel 40 Teeth Drive Gear for CR-10.CR-10S,S4,S5,Ender 3,Ender 3 Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BFT6VCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_spo0CbCFA5YSD


CHPOWER CR-10 Extruder Upgraded Replacement, Aluminum MK8 Drive Feed 3D Printer Extruders for Creality Ender 3, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, CR-10 S5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JZ374W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Fqo0CbJX7V96H

You should try XTC! Its fantastic at filling on 3d prints, 30 minute cure time. Only takes 1 careful coat for fine prints, or 2-3 regular coats for less detailed prints. You can sand it smooth with 400 grit

https://www.amazon.com/XTC-3D-High-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY

Buy some [3D printer surfaces](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073TW738G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) off of Amazon, cut it to shape and use it to replace the PEI. I've had much success also sticking one on the spring steel sheet and using the steel side for super sticky PETG and the other side for everything else.

I ordered this one, and it got to me in Canada pretty quick for a decent price: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B251KBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've literally only done two prints since I got it installed though, so I can't say how big an improvement it is on the original yet.

Build plate is tearing up a little when you remove the print.

I suggest purchasing a glass replacement to go over the top of your build plate. Note: You'll have to calibrate your Z-axis a little unless if you get super lucky and the glass plate is exactly the same thickness as your current plate. Amazon has one for $20

I am also interested in changing the bearings on the y axis and the x axis. Are these good bearings to make the printer quieter and maybe more stable?

https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Solid-Polymer-LM8UU-Bearing/dp/B06XPRCMJS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

I found this metal replacement for $11 on amazon when I had this issue a few weeks ago, such great value

CHPOWER CR-10 Extruder Upgraded Replacement, Aluminum MK8 Drive Feed 3D Printer Extruders for Creality Ender 3, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, CR-10 S5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JZ374W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NzsODb9EGYASC

On my machine, I have added the following upgrades:

• Inductive sensor for bed leveling
  
• Dual Mosfets
  
• Reinforced Belts
  
• Buildtak clone (optional)
  
• X and Y cable chains (optional)
  
• Y axis belt tensioner (optional)
  
• OctoPi running on a Raspberry Pi 3 B (optional)
  
• Semi-circular fan attachment
  
• Top Mounted Spool Holder (optional, not for heavy spools!)
  
  I hope this helps!
  

That kit includes the genuine BLTouch, which is good. I got mine for $38 on Amazon, printed my own mouting bracket, and spliced into a wire to wire it in.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PQG1FF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If budget is a concern, and you're up for a little more DIY, you could go that route. Or buy just a cheap Pin 27 board, and print the mount for the probe.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Creality-Ender3-CR-10-Pin-27-Board-for-BLTouch-or-Filament-Sensor-BLTouch-2PCSA/254398567391?hash=item3b3b5613df:g:kHsAAOSwzeddsRVe

I started with a Trianglelab 3D Touch. It was OK for a few days, then began failing, so I changed to the genuine version, which has worked better for me.

i ended up buying this glass bed. Overall its pretty good. Just use purple glue stick you can buy anywhere and youll be fine. albeit for me i need to call in NASA engineers to get mine off as well. :/

​

https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Print-Borosilicate-Printer-235x235x3-7mm/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3C42WXXA97BWB&keywords=ender+3+glass+bed&qid=1569282569&sprefix=ender+3+glas+bed%2Caps%2C219&sr=8-5

It looks like the extruder arm may be squeaking the filament against the extruder wheel so tight it is causing skipped steps and filament to wear off on the wheel.

I bit the bullet and got an aluminum extruder arm kit from amazon - CHPOWER CR-10 Extruder Upgraded Replacement, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JZ374W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kCaPCbF0AF0C3 - and have had good luck and no more skipped steps since changing.

Yeah, a second external mosfet. One of these: https://www.amazon.com/TriGorilla-Printer-Heating-Controller-Extruder/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1526154992&sr=8-19&keywords=mosfet The MK2/S has had a history of having arching and melting in the plug they use to hook the heat bed to the RAMBO. That's why the MK3 uses screw terminals so its less necessary. They're much safer and more robust. The PSU has a spare empty 12V +/- terminal. So I desoldered the heatbed end. Ran those leads to the on/off signal input of the external mosfet. The RAMBO bed output now becomes a lower amperage enable/disable signal. Then I ran new power leads from the PSU to the power in on the mosfet then power out to the bed, soldering those new leads onto the bed. Printed a small enclosure and use some self adhesive velcro to stick it to my rambo case. Aint pretty, but the risk of a meltdown is greatly reduced. Probably overkill but better safe than sorry.

This is what I'm using and it's been fine for the past 6 months; glossy finish. I think what Prusa includes is closer to 7 mil though.

I'm sure there are some differences in heat transfer properties or something with regards to using a thinner sheet; but the only things I've noticed are that the screen printing can distort the surface slightly (visible dimple, but can't feel it) and I need to be more careful with my removal tools so I don't accidentally scratch through it and into the heat bed. I had been using a super sharp putty knife, but switched to this recently (basically a thin metal kitchen spatula, with rounded corners).

You can use xtc-3d from smooth on to get a super nice smooth finish, that's what I did here

I don't have experience with that printer personally. However, from what I've read it seems like a decent machine. For about $100 less you can get an Ender 3, which is a good printer for the price and has a large community behind it. You could invest the difference purchasing upgrades (BLTouch sensor, magnetic build surface, etc...) and it would outweigh the i3 Mega significantly. If you spend a little more, you can get the CR-10 and increase your build volume.

I haven't owned an Anycubic before, so I have a bias towards Crealty's products. Alternatively, Powerspec is another brand that has similar printers. If you live near a Microcenter, it's likely that they'll have that brand on display. The one near me renovated an entire section of the store to dedicate it to 3D Printing.

Outside of the things others have mentioned (springs, tubing, couplers, SKR, BMG, etc.) - if you don't already have some good tools/spare parts you can use this time to invest in some.

• Some superlube for bearings/z-rod/etc
  
• Ferrules & crimp (great if you want to swap boards and have 'proper' cabling)
  
• A heavier duty 'get off the damn bed' thingy
  
• Reusable cable ties (save the ocean or some shit)
  
• Deburr tool
  
• M2/M3/M4 bolt set with T-nuts (great if you want to print some add-ons that attach to the extrusions)
  
• Different bed surfaces if you want to experiment
  
• Microfiber cloths for cleaning things
  
• Tooth brush and some orange cleaner for cleaning up that z-rod
  
• LED lightbar or some other form of lighting
  
• Extra hot end socks, nozzles, thermistors, heating elements (better to have one or two on hand then wait a while!)
  
• 14/12 awg silicone wire for mains connection (great with spades & ferrules!)
  
• Soldering iron, cabling, heatshrink (if you want to swap fans or do any other wire splicing activities)
  
• Ball bearing 4010 fans (or 4020, or whatever size you mod to - IMO go for 24v and avoid noctua/buck converter shenanigans)

>If it were me I'd probably switch back to my standard filament just to make sure my printer is still working like I'm used to. It's way better to troubleshoot a known-known.

This is actually exactly what I just did! And to my surprise, I had the same problem with the previous filament.
I actually found the issue now! At the same time I put in place the new nozzle, I also put in place one of these E3d silicon socks. And it seems this silicon sock is preventing the print to be properly cooled by my fan shroud!
I just removed it and tried again and now the print looks fine. Now I just have to try again with the glow in the dark filament but my guess is that it's gonna work!

Be more gentle when getting it off. Are you possible just ripping it off with brute strength? Like get this thing for $6.

Adhesion is important but overdoing it can lead to this issue. From what I see in the picture, you might have a slight elephants foot (the first layer is so smashed into the bed it squishes out sideways and creates a lip or burr on the part.

Yeah, that's kinda what I was worried about. This is what I purchased. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FSM8DK9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was kinda hoping to be able to put the sticky build sheet on the back side, and leave the coated side against the heated plate. The reviews seem to suggest that the coating wears away very quickly. But I'm afraid that the coating will mess with the adhesion of the polycarb build sheet.

Ideally, it would be great if I could just put the polycarb sheet on the back, and just flip it back and forth and use both surfaces. Just don't know how safe it would be having either surface directly against the build plate.

This is where i got them from. Just make sure when you cute them that you are careful not to crush the tube. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FPJHRTQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

+1... This is a WIN

1. Small mistakes make great lessons.
   
2. Still usable to print 75% as wide as the print bed, at least
   
3. Instant excuse to drop $30 on a glass bed. I got this one: Gulfcoast-Robotics-Borosilicate-Creality-Ender3- 4mm thick

Thanks for the info. Sadly yes [I bought the correct ones](http://www.3D.com/ Printer Solid Polymer LM8UU Bearing 8mm shaft - Igus Drylin RJ4JP-01-08 for Anet A8 Prusa i3 3D Printer RepRap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPRCMJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OPhWBbA71R3DG)

Thanks for the info on the hotend. I bought a gcr model and had clogging issues.

Dampers installed pretty easy on the X axis, same as the 3 I used to have. The Y axis is a bit more work which I posted above. I used this exact kind.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use [these] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWFM1HJ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_OYE.AbP0JQ8X9) brushes for cleaning filament off of the extruder because you will inevitably have prints that leave filament all over the hotend. [These] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VB1U886/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526590824&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=3d+print+removal+tool&dpPl=1&dpID=31vIt7tpDfL&ref=plSrch) are really cheap and good for removing prints from the bed. One of them should last you several months. You’ll also eventually need to clear out a clogged nozzle so some [nozzle cleaners] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072JJ7H5P/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526590910&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=3d+printer+nozzle+cleaner) will come in handy.

Honestly I would suggest getting the upgraded motors instead of the dampeners. They will be much quieter and give you better performance. For the bed I got this:
[Gulfcoast Robotics] 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFTKCV9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Yellow springs are stiffer replacements for the bed levelling springs that are stock. They should help keep the bed level meaning you don't need to adjust it as regularly.

The stock Bowden couplers have a habit of coming disconnected, though I believe in newer machines a clip has been included to alleviate this. It's good to have spares anyway.

A glass bed gives you a nice flat print surface and I don't know what I did before I got mine. Many stock beds are warped making this a necessity.

Comgrow Heat Bed Glass Plate 235... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DSC9TJQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

SIQUK 2 Pieces PTFE Teflon Tube... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DC594D6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I can't find the link for the springs at the moment, will update when I find them.

Hey, I highly recommend this spatula

the one that came with my 3d printer was dollar store garbage and would have gouged my buildtak if I hadn't had the lucky foresight to buy this one first.

This one is so thin that it can easily get under parts, just don't "pry" upwards or it'll bend it! (I bent mine but it still works like a champ)

I have a maker select v2 and recently switched to 3 point leveling with one of these. Highly recommended.

This gives an excellent overview of the benefits of 3 point leveling.

I was having the same problems as you prior to the upgrade. I couldn't get even leveling across the bed which led to my printer collecting dust for a few months.

Yeah, I got a bunch of tips. Did you join the HackerHappyHour discord? If you did, there's a 3d-printing channel in the Maker section, and I can respond faster there. (I only check reddit every few days usually) Here's the join link if you need it again: https://discord.gg/WNDrtWM

I have used 2 build plate surfaces so far. The build-tak that came with the kit, and a borosilicate glass plate I got from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DFTKCV9

I use Slic3r (and I'm now an official contributor to it!), and I have been posting my Slic3r profiles in this gist when i get then nailed down: https://gist.github.com/LongLiveCHIEF/6363bba1e4799bff9122c03f5e8096e3#file-slic3r_ender3_config_bundle-ini

The Ender3 ini bundle that is there now is for the buildtak plate, and I'm almost done with my glass settings.

I also upgraded the bed springs, bought a BLTouch auto-bed-level, and some automotive feeler guages so I can exactly level and dial in my bed shape to slic3r

The reason I did all that, is the biggest factor for sticking is going to be temperate. If you take bed shape/leveling/distance out of the equation, it's easier to focus on temperature without worrying about other factors messing up your layers.

All in all though, I haven't had a lot of problems getting things to stick. You can see my temp settings in the gist I posted, but I've been finding lately that for Hatchbox, the best temperature seems to be 187 - 192 for the hot end, and about 57 - 63 for the bed. Technically you don't need to heat the bed for PLA, but I haven't tried a cold bed yet so couldn't tell you if that works well or not.

I am going to try using this https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-XTC-3D-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY/ to smooth out layer lines to hopefully get better barrel material.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_PI.Cyb7TB37GQ

This is the board I'm looking doing. I like it because of the heat sink.

I know there is that is half the price, but the heat sink I think is better.

I got one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VB1U886

Super thin edge gets under the edge of prints without damaging the print or the buildtak.

$4.84 - 1x Flexible Magnetic Sheet w/ Adhesive Backing

$27.76 - 1x Spring Steel Wear Resistant Sheet

$15.99 - 1x Pack of Athorbot 3d Printing Build Surface Sheets

For CR-10, this was a quality of life improvement and setup took minutes.

Install:

1. Remove binder clips and glass or whatever you print on. Smash it for the pain it has inflicted on you over the months.
   
   
2. Peel off backing from magnetic sheet, line it up with the build plate adhesive side down, and stick it on there.
   
   
3. Take an Athos ot build sheet and stick it to the spring steel sheet.
   
   
4. Line up your spring steel sheet with the printer bed with magnet sheet on top. Wham. Let them pull together.
   
   
5. Level bed and start printing
   
   
6. Never look back...
   
   
   Yes magnets lose polarity with heat but 6 months and no change for me. You could get the heat protected magnet sheet but I heard it's not very sturdy.
   
   Prints never move during printing and removal is as easy as peel metal build sheet away from magnet and flex it so the part pops off.

Nozzle sock

I didn't get one at first and my nozzle/hot end got covered in all kinds of scrap that melted on and then burned on, and I started to get little dark blobs in my prints. Keeping it clean also makes it easier to change the nozzle.

Amazon.

I'd recommend the RAMPS 1.4 board as there is already a guide to installing it on the Mini and a BLTouch mechanical probe sensor that is also on Amazon.

Also note you need someway to mount your probe the hot end so since no one has done it yet with Mini (publicly anyways), you'd probably have to design your own mount and print it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0111ZSS2O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017NEGTXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PQG1FF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1