Remember, even though you're a short guy, you're as tall as the average American women, so there will be plenty of offerings for you. Don't be afraid to try on a women's bike if you decide to buy a bike at a local bike shop near you. Here's a nifty tool that lets you calculate what frame size you'll need.

Performance Bike, a US bike chain store, has a number of great guides on how to get started bike commuting. I'll also copy part of a post I recently wrote to another guy looking to get into commuting via bike.

>As a bike commuter, you'll need a number of things to stay safe and make sure your bike stays in your hands. Here are the essentials:

>1. Front and rear lights. I use this flashlight for my front light, and a rear light similar to this.

>2. A helmet. From your posting history, you seem to live in [Glasgow]. All helmets sold [there] are required to meet the same safety standards so in all likelihood, spending more on a helmet will not make you safer. Buy one in a store and you're set.

>3. A great bike lock. Read this to learn the proper way to lock your bike.

>However, staying safe is only the first part. You'll want or need a number of other items to make sure that your commute isn't frustrating. Here are some of the items off of the top of my head.

>1. Bike pump. If you're going to mostly ride near gas stations which have air pumps that can inflate a tube, you probably don't need to carry around a mini pump on your rides. However, everyone should own a floor pump.

>2. Degreaser. The cheap automotive kind is fine as is WD 40. This is used when you need to clean the drivetrain.

>3. Bike lube. Stick with a bike specific one.

>4. Disposable poncho. When I lived in an area where it often rained, I always had a dollar store disposable poncho in my backpack. It's just super handy if there's an unexpected downpour.

>5. Fenders. I personally don't have them, but I live in a relatively dry climate. If you live in a place where it always rains, they're super helpful.

>6. Bottle cage. A cheap plastic one is fine.

>7. Tire levers.

>8. Rear rack. Assuming you don't have a full suspension mountain bike and instead have a hard tail (here's an article if you're unsure), get a rear rack. Do not get one that is only mounted to the seat post like this Ibera, but rather one that connects to the bike frame. If your bike does not have any bolts that can attach, you can use P clamps to secure the rack. This post describes how to do just that.

>9. Some way to transport groceries. While I use a milk crate that I ziptied onto my rear rack with bungee cords on top of the crate (similar to this setup), many others use panniers to transport groceries and other goods. This has the benefit of more storage, better center of gravity, and can be water proof. However, they are usually much more expensive unless you go the DIY route.

>10. Bike bell. Cars won't be able to hear you, but if you ride in areas with lots of pedestrians or other cyclists, it's useful.

>11. Spare tube. Fortunately tubes are cheap and super easy to find. Any department store with a bike section will carry them.

>/r/bikecommuting can be a helpful resource if you have other questions.

So, I have done Vancouver to Tijuana and used almost exclusively this book:

http://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Pacific-Coast-Vicky-Spring/dp/0898869544/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1323197410&sr=1-1

I ended up hating it, some things are wrong,it's hard to use a book while riding, etc. but it got the job done.

Another alternative that is really useful are the adventure cycling maps:
http://www.adventurecycling.org/routes/pacificcoast.cfm

Or like fayette said, ditch the preplanned route, it honestly is way more fun and feels more like you are on your own adventure. A lot of areas will have free bike maps of the region, like the Discovery Trail on the Olympic Peninsula. And you can just use road maps bought at a gas station. The downside to this is that many times you will take a big highway when there was a barely used country road that you could have taken.

Luckily for you there are hiker/biker sites in most campgrounds all the way up the coast. They normally cost around $5 a person and will have warm showers. Or, what it took me forever to learn was to bush camp. Go to a park and find somewhere hidden, get out your sleeping bag and sleep. Not having a car really helps hide in the park and it ends up saving a lot of money.

Also, I would consider taking Highway 1 up as far as you can. The grades are a little steeper and the shoulders a little smaller, but it is much better riding than the 101. Once you hit California(from Oregon), highway 101 turns into a highway, 4 fast lanes, wide shoulders and shallow grades. This comes at a cost, it is hotter, dustier and less scenic. While this doesn't sound so bad, it gets old quick.

For food I'm not sure what your plan is. I highly recommend getting a backpacking stove and lightweight pot. It will save you a lot of money and make you much more flexible. Usually you can go to most places and they will fill up your water or you can fill it up at their soda machines.

I did pretty much this same trip last summer (a few months ago) except it was from Seattle to Santa Cruz. It was so awesome.

Here are the pictures: http://itsbiggerontheinside.imgur.com/all/

If you have every backpacked before, you just need the essential gear that you would bring backpacking. I camped everynight (about 5$ a night in california/oregon and then it gets ridiculously expensive ~$15 a night in Washington) so I brought my camping stove, hammock to sleep in along with a rain tarp, warm clothes... The essentials.

You say you're training on that bike, but not riding on it? And you said it's a fixed gear... It's not a fixed gear, it has gears. Do you know how many? I did my ride on a 1984 Miyata 1000, and it held up great. If your bike has good enough gears, and eyelets for paniers, you should be fine on it.


I don't know your route, but if you are going to go along the coast (which I recommend), there's a great book called bicycling the pacific coast. It tells you where campsites are, things to see, and it suggests how long you should travel for each day.

You said that you are planning on doing it in 2-3 weeks. I did it in 24 days, and that was about 50 miles a day with a few rest days. If you are walking at all (im a little confused about what you're really doing) it will take you longer.

I think that you have some superfluous things that you are bringing as well. A backpack, hiking shoes (if you aren't riding clip less, you should be fine without hiking shoes). You didn't mention that you are bringing rain pants in you packing list (unless i skimmed over it), and you may want to bring those in the spring months for the Northern Coast. It can be cold, and wet.

I hope you have a great time! I looks really rad. If you don't have your bike yet, check craigslist! You'll find some awesome deals for awesome bikes on there.

Also, feel free to ask anything.

• Chain wear measuring tool
  
  Optional, you can actually use a ruler if you want. But it makes the job a bit easier and more foolproof.
  
  
• Chain breaking tool (plier-style or punch-style, can't remember how my chain is put together at the moment)
  
  When it's time to replace your chain you'll need the "punch-style" chain tool to size the new one correctly, regardless of the type of chain you currently have. But you won't need one until then, so it's up to you if you want to buy it now or later. The "plier-style" is for removing quick links, but that's mostly a matter of convenience: I just recently got one myself, until now I've just used my fingers, or maybe a bit of wire if it's stuck.
  
  
• Chain cleaner tool
  
  I've used these, but I'm not a big fan. For regular chain maintenance, just some degreaser on a rag is enough. For deeper cleaning there's lots and lots of ways to clean a chain, including these cleaning tools. Other options: remove and shake in a bottle, use an ultrasonic cleaner, use two nail brushes pressed together ... or just not bothering with deep cleaning. It's really up to you.
  
  
• Degreaser (is this bike specific/not?)
  
  I use Simple Green for most jobs. There's bike-specific degreaser, though, if you want.
  
  
• Chain lube (is this bike specific/not?)
  
  This one is definitely bike specific! There's lots of options out there, but cleaning and lubing regularly is more important than which one you use. If you ride in the rain a lot, get a wet lube. I like wax-based lubes, for what it's worth.
  
  
• Brush set (any ones in particular? I know I need the sickle-shaped cog scrapey thing, a bottle brush and something finer)
  
  I use an old toothbrush. I've never bothered with the "sickle-shaped cog scrapey thing," but that's because I remove the cassette completely if it gets dirty enough to need that.
  
  
• Dummy hub
  
  Meh, if you want. I've never needed it.
  
  
• Bike stand
  
  I recommend finding something that lets you work on the bike at a more manageable height. Official bike stands are expensive, but work very well. There are cheaper options that get the job done, though.
  
  For a long time I just mounted a bike hanger like this to the wall. The bike just sits in it, not overly secure, but it's enough to get the bike to a working height, and you can pedal to work on the chain. Enough to do basic maintenance. It also doubles as bike storage. I found this works best with road bikes (narrower handlebars).
  
  More recently, though, I made a bike stand. It's still a work in progress, but I'll post pictures of it here eventually. It's made from sawhorse brackets and 2x4's as the base, and then I use this bracket for my road bike and this bracket for my mountain bike to secure it. The front wheel comes off and clamps down, and the bottom bracket rests on the top of the saw horse, with the wheel hanging off the back. It's secure, I can work in my yard and clean the bike on it, and it was pretty inexpensive to make. And I don't have to worry about clamping to carbon, or where I'm going to clamp with the suspension in the way, etc. The only downside is you can't work on the front wheel or brakes very conveniently. My design doesn't store very compactly, though I'm sure you can find a better way if that's a concern.
  
  Most other tools can be picked up on an as-needed bases. Cable cutters when you replace cables. Lockring tool and chain whip when you want to remove the cassette. Bottom bracket wrench when it's time to service the bottom bracket. Cone wrenches when you service the hubs. A torque wrench if you have a carbon fiber bike. Etc.
  
  I can't help with phone mounts, so I'll let someone else make a suggestion there.

For the bike itself I recommend you get a used old roadbike. That will offer plenty of fun already (you might never feel the need to upgrade) and it will give you time to figure if and what else you might want.

In addition to that I recommend: (All amazon links)

A bicycle tool with a chainbreaker tool, this will allow you to fix anything and everything that can go wrong on a bicycle. Not that the one I linked is very pricy, there are cheaper versions but with tools I always prefer having good stuff.

You will likely need new tires if you get an old bike, this is one point where you can drastically enhance performance by buying good ones. Ever since I bought Continental GP4000SII I haven't even thought about trying others. A set of these will last you for several years on a 3 Mile distance so the cost is neglible. Note that tyre sizes differ somewhat, if you get something really old these won't fit. Get the bike first and then buy the right size tyres (should be listed on the rubber of the old tyre, most road bikes use 700x25c).

In addition to that I would normally recommend a book on bicycle repairs, but if you head over to BikeMan4U on youtube he's one of the best people to learn that stuff from, very down to earth guy.

You will also need some way to transport your stuff to work, I recommend getting a simple wire basket and putting your backpack into there. Note that most road bikes are not built to accomodate a rear rack, you might need something like this.

That is basically what you will need to get started, maybe grab a cheap rain jacket and -trousers if you plan to really bike every day. I myself am no friend of cycle clothing and commute either in jeans / tshirt or aforementioned rain gear, which works just fine for my ~6 miles one way.

Of course that's just my opinion and you might end up buying something completely different, but this will get you on the road to happiness for 500 or less and I think at that point you do nothing wrong.

A tool kit (or a good bike multi-tool) is fairly inexpensive, and is incredibly useful for maintaining, repairing, and upgrading bikes. It's not going to directly affect your ride to and from work, buthelp you keep your bike in top condition so that your ride is easy and safe.

Something like this kit, or this one would be a good place to start, and supplement with individual tools as you need them.

A fairly comprehensive multi-tool like this one would also work for infrequent repairs, though they can be somewhat cumbersome to use at times.

Lastly, a good repair book might not be a bad idea. I like Lenard Zinn's Zinn and the Art of (Road/Mountain) Bike Maintenance. However, there are also man great websites and youtube tutorials (park tools has some excellent guides on their site) that will fulfil the same role.

I would use a cable on the seat and wheels but to be honest with something over 1K I would get a better lock. Mainly the Kryptonite NY Standard. Just because the bike is going to be a bigger target to thieves. But it is your bike and your money.

You should look at getting a GPS in the frame, as you can find your bike and it acts as a deterrent.

Depending on how much you care about/need the bike I would also look at bike insurance. I use Velo Insurance, and they are pretty nice. The CEO will answer the phone they are a small company with great reviews.

Although the New York series of locks from kryptonite also offer insurance free for the first 3 years as /u/GoonCommaThe mentioned. Although make sure and read the restrictions carefully.

A very inexpensive method for transporting your bike in the bed of your Tacoma is to purchase something this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AO7GRG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_05dszbQ8H30KX

I bought 2 to transport friends bikes for a big event 4 of us went to. Screwed them to a piece of plywood and set it in the back of my F-150. Worked very very well. These are for traditional quick release axles. Amazon (and I'm sure your LBS) sells a version for through axle.

I definitely recommend a pair of shorts or bibs. For me personally it's bibs 100%. Since I got a set last summer, I haven't rode anything else.

Lock is nice if you plan to leave the bike unattended.

Waterbottles are a must.

A minimal set of tools so you can repair a flat and make adjustments on the road.

You do NOT absolutely need shoes or pedals right now. You can enjoy the bike as is and buy pedals/shoes when you are ready. Some shops will sell the bike with no pedals, others will include them. You can probably get them to throw in some cheap pedals with the sale to get you by for a while.

I also highly suggest a blinking head and tail light - as bright as possible. For day or night riding it'll help others see you.

Which bike did you end up deciding on? Your list in the other post was quite extensive and a very good list. Good luck!

Looks like a very practical bike, though if that saddle height is right the bike may be a bit large. If your legs are more than a little bent at the bottom of the stroke it's hard on the knees and a lot of extra effort. If you have it low to keep your feet on the ground starting/stopping, try standing in front of the saddle when you're stopped, only sitting down once you're going.

Those flat fenders are definitely better than nothing but not actually good; spray from the wheel gets thrown sideways at you. If you do plan all-weather riding, get some good, long fenders, like SKS Longboards. The front fender needs to be lower than 9 o'clock to keep dirty spray off your feet and chaingear.

A lot of U-locks come with fixtures for attaching them to the frame - tidy and convenient.

Since this is your first bike, any time you wonder about adjusting or fixing something, check out http://sheldonbrown.com. It's a treasure trove for maintenance and repair, starting with chain lubing and fixing flats. It's very satisfying and quite easy to become self-sufficient to a some level, leaving visiting the bike shop for more major work.

First things I'd consider getting, in order:

• lube (I love Boeshield T-9) - lube pays for itself rapidly in reduced wear.
  
• pump
  
• puncture repair kit (but only if you learn & practice how to use it)
  
• multi-tool
  
  Either get a puncture repair kit with tire levers, or a multi-tool including tire levers.
  
  When you understand your bike and can keep it running smoothly, you love it ever more.

If weight is not an issue, you should get the Kryptonite New York Lock. I have it and have never had an issue with it. It's pretty much as secure as you'll get with a bike lock, without resorting to incredibly huge, heavy, unwieldy solutions. I live in Philly too, which has a ton of bike theft.

This looks to be even thicker and more secure, but I can't tell from the picture how large it actually is.

For the most security, the lock should be small, but big enough to put through the frame and back wheel, while still having room to accommodate the front wheel (which you should take off and lock with the back wheel and frame, provided it's a quick-release wheel- if it's not a quick release, then get one of the cables or an extra, tiny u-lock to lock the front wheel to the frame).

Take some time to look up the most secure ways to lock a bike. It doesn't matter how long you've been riding for- if you're unfamiliar with how to securely lock up a bike, having a better lock won't mean much. How you lock it up, where you lock it up, and what you lock it to are all important considerations.

And just know that there's no perfect solution. If somebody comes along with an angle-grinder, your bike is getting stolen no matter how many locks you have on it. Exercise good judgement in how long you keep it locked up in one place (as in, don't just leave it out overnight in a high-theft area if you can avoid it). And even having a great lock won't prevent somebody from taking your seat, handlebars, headlight, reflectors, fender/mud guard, water bottle, or anything else that might be on your bike but not chained down.

I commute by bike through the winter this will be the 4 year. My ride is short, only 2 miles.

These are awesome, https://www.amazon.com/Mountain-Bar-Mitts-Small-Medium/dp/B009F9ZQH4/
when it gets real cold you can put a pair of light weight gloves on under them. But above ~15 F the bar mitts are enough.

Because I have such a short ride I haven't had to worry about venting much but I've taken a few longer winter rides and have had to remove layers. This year I'm thinking of getting better gear. I went the cheep route on rain gear and I don't really love it... but it works.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006IOMOZQ
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006IOMAL4

The jacket is fine but doesn't have pockets. The pants cut to large for cycling. I also have decided that I really don't like the black for visibility reasons. They do keep me dry.

I've been using a pair of safety glasses from lowes as a windscreen. They work fine, gets foggy sometimes.
I need a better solution for my feet.
I don't have showers at work and it's nice to not have to change and carry extra stuff.
When it gets real cold keeping my face from being exposed has been an issue.
I've used a balaclava and a scarf on top of that.
I have had ski goggles fog up.
Thanks for your post got me thinking about it all again. I really need to buys some better gear this year.
Keep your feet dry.

Here is my list I made for another post. It works from 60 to -10 or so.

Here are my recommendations for surviving a Boston winter:

Bibs, Base Layer, Leg Warmers, Arm Warmers, Thermal Jersey, Jacket, Helmet Cover, Toe Cover, Shoe Cover, Gloves, Balaclava & Socks.

This is almost exclusively Pearl Izumi because it fits me, I can get a good deal on most of it if I wait to buy and the quality is amazing. It is not cheap but I rode almost every week outdoors last year during one of the worst winters we have had in a long time.

Also, do yourself a favor and get a rear fender and wet chain lube. Also staying hydrated is very important as anyone would tell you but it is hard to drink cold water when it is cold so I find this stuff from Skratch Labs really helps. Be prepared to a lot more drive train maintainence due to the salt and sand you will get in your chain and cassette.

Let me know what you have questions on and I will be happy to report back. I don't use all of this on every ride, it is weather dependent but in the middle of winter, I certainly like being able to bundle up and then remove a layer or unzip when needed. It makes riding fun when the thermeter dips below 15°F.

Hey nice bike! If I were you I would add a saddle bag with some tubes, tire levers, and maybe get a small pump, and since you're just commuting the whole "it ain't aero" thing doesn't really fucking matter in my opinion ;) I would recommend this and these and this. Also read up on sites like Sheldon Brown for basics, and also I would recommend the GCN youtube channel for repair and maintenance. Also as far as locks go get a U-lock like this for most security and use this locking method. Have fun and stay safe, and feel free to ask any questions to me or any of the other people on this sub!

I'd say plan ahead for your move back to Cambridge now and get a proper bike lock like the Kryptonite Evolution Series. No bike lock is 100% secure, but that one does a good job balancing weight, security, and price. It will deter casual thieves with simple tools (like a hacksaw or crowbar), which is about the best you can hope for and should be totally fine for your grocery trips.

The link I posted goes to a package with a U-lock and cable. This GIF shows you how to use the two of them together to make sure that the frame and both wheels are securely locked up. U lock goes around the seat stays (or rear wheel inside the triangle) and the bike rack, cable wraps the front wheel, downtube, and U lock.

I picked up this bike about a year ago and have had great success with it so far. I took it to a local shop, got a few tweaks done and was ready to roll. Most road bikes you see mentioned run starting about $700 for the cheapest model (new out the box), and if it is something you are just getting in to doing, that is a pretty big investment.

So I dropped $179 on the afrementioned bike, got a little CatEye comp, a water bottle, saddle bag, and off I went. Less than $200 and I've put in some serious milage in the last year and absolutely love it.

Also, I see it like this. If I can do some serious mileage on a low end bike, then when I DO upgrade to something expensive (and even still I am not breaking the $1,000 mark) then it will be all the better when I make that move. Training on a heavy ride, then upgrading to lighter bike will make those really long roadies go much easier.

You can see an example of bar ends here. You can buy them all over Amazon, but I'd recommend checking the bike shop and see what they say about what will work.

[Profile-Design-Boxer-Bar-Black](
http://www.amazon.com/Profile-Design-Boxer-Bar-Black/dp/B001KS3RFQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381597001&sr=8-1&keywords=bar+ends)

[Origin8-Pulsion-Compe-Lite-Bar-Ends](
http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Pulsion-Compe-Lite-Bar-Ends/dp/B002I7PRUQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381597001&sr=8-2&keywords=bar+ends)

They are just great for multiple hand positions. Found that riding on flat handle bars, you just don't get the options like you do with a road bike. Added some to the FX, no more numb hands. :)

I bought my FX about this time too just in time for winter. It was a blast, I think you're going to have fun.

Well, you have some decisions to make. The constants will be the dimensions of the hub and the inner diameter of the rim. The variables will be the lacing pattern -- how many times the the spokes cross each other on the way from the hub to the rim -- and the gauge / type of spoke.

Since you're building a 36 spoke wheel, I assume that you're building this for heavy duty road riding or touring, where most riders will select a 3X pattern. (For example, radial laced spokes don't cross each other at all -- like a wagon wheel -- resulting in shorter, lighter spokes. A 3X wheel requires longer spokes but allows softer riding characteristics.)

I couldn't get the drop-down menu's to work on the Wheelbuilder link, but another calculator can be found here. But unless you can find a reliable database of measurements, you will need to learn how to make the proper measurements yourself.

One book you might want to read can be found here. It's a start but not gospel.

One option: Go to an intelligent LBS and have them make the measurements and order the spokes for you. You can save the labor and build them yourself.

Good luck!

I've built many wheels over the years and find each new build is easier than the one before. The hardest part is choosing the components and getting the spoke length right. Components can be researched on the web (manufacturers' web sites, reviews & opinions) and the LBS can work out the right spoke length for you.

When I'm building a wheel, my attitude is that my time is valuable and I won't waste it by using sub-standard parts (or previously used spokes) and hoping that nothing breaks.

The process of building a wheel can be broken into three parts:

1: Getting all the bits (the fun part);

2: Spoking the wheel (the basket weaving part);

3: Truing the wheel (the tedious but rewarding part).

I have used and can recommend The Bicycle Wheel by Jobst Brandt as a book to get started with. I have also read Building Bicycle Wheels by Robert Wright. It got me enthused, but was a little simplistic for me.

You will also need some tools: a spoke key and a truing stand.

I cannot recommend the Rocket Ratchet enough for all-around, single tool efficiency. It's gotten to the point where I don't actually use the tools in my toolbox even when I'm at home. I just use the ratchet and it's way better. Any multi-tool with a chain-breaker will work, I've just had a really good time with that one.

After that a set of Pedro's. For my money, they're the best levers around. Great durability, can spoke-lock from both sides, and I've never ripped a tube with them, even on bullshit 23 tires.

After that basic patch kits, they'll use them all the time until they throw their hands in the air five years from now and scream "FINE I'LL GO TUBELESS."

Those are kind of the basics, and will allow them to work 90% of the stuff on their bike. The other 10% becomes more expensive and more specialized.

EDIT: oh, and a spoke wrench is the other cheap and highly useful item to have around.

I did seattle to Santa Cruz, I can tell you a bit about my trip. I did it a little differently than Ben I believe, by going along the coast the whole time.

• I really didn't plan my trip, and I liked it that way. I knew I was going to visit a friend from high school in Seattle, and visit a friend in Humboldt, but that was it. I bought a map for each state I passed through, and carried a book with me called 'bicycling the pacific coast': http://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Pacific-Coast-Complete-Canada/dp/0898869544.
  
  
  -I mainly stayed on the 1/101. Sometimes you have, or want to, veer off onto smaller highways, just look at a map.
  
  -I used a jetboil, a handy backpacking cooking thing. Good for heating up liquid substances, bad for stir-frying and stuff like that. A common meal for me was bread, beans, and avocado.
  
  -I camped every night. I use a hammock for backpacking, and I love it because it is very comfortable and keeps you completely dry when it rains. For biking, it is a godsend. It stretched out my legs while I slept so my knees felt good in the morning. I slept one night on the ground, and it was awful.
  
  -Sunglasses, rocks and bugs are scary.
  Even thought these fit into the 'spare parts' category, bring extra screws. I never would have thought of that, I there were times where i was.... screwed.
  
  -Do it!

> Any recommendations for lube though?

TriFlow is a good general purpose lube for parts of the bike that should be slidey. It's ok on the chain, but a purpose-made chain lube is better.

As for chain lube, there's a lot of choices. However, there are two basic categories ... wet lube and dry lube. Wet lube will stand up to wet, grimey conditions, but will be more prone to "gunk build up" in dryer conditions. Dry lube is "cleaner", and less stuff will stick to it, but it won't hold up well in the wet.

Decide what's right for your category of riding, and see what the LBS carries and/or recommends. I ride a road bike and personally use Boeshield T-9 for summer conditions. I like ProGold Xtreme for wet-weather / winter riding.

Whichever you choose, get in the habit of at least wiping down the chain and re-applying lube often, and doing a deep clean with degreaser and re-lube a little less regularly.

Not my bike, but I've one of those locks before and yeah, super easy to cut. I highly recommend the locks I have http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B004C94T84/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/275-3310947-3855532 and http://www.amazon.co.uk/Knog-Bouncer-Lock/dp/B00H45KPN6

I borrowed a friend's bike that had a set of these installed and I really liked them. I had never used bike mirrors before but found them very helpful for seeing cars coming up behind me. I plan to get a set for my road bike. If you have flat bars a helmet mirror might work well but I guess they're not useful when you're on the drops.

Edit: I've been commuting for years without mirrors and they aren't necessary but feel like they would have been nice to have on several occasions.

• [Crank Brothers multi tool] (http://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers-Bicycle-19-Function-Silver/dp/B0012Q41HY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418363910&sr=8-1&keywords=crank+brothers+multi+tool)
  
  
• [Topeak saddlebag] (http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Aero-Wedge-Buckle-Medium/dp/B000FIAU8O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418364745&sr=8-1&keywords=topeak+saddle+bag)
  
  
• [Cygolite Metro 400 Headlight] (http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Metro-400-Rechargeable-Headlight/dp/B00LXTOT6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418364255&sr=8-1&keywords=cygolite+metro+400)
  
  
• [Cygolite Hotshot Taillight] (http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=pd_bxgy_sg_text_y)
  
  
• [CatEye Wireless Bike Computer] (http://www.amazon.com/CatEye-Wireless-Bicycle-Computer-CC-VT220W/dp/B004RE783W/ref=sr_1_16?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1418364327&sr=1-16&keywords=cateye)
  
  
• [Finish Line Chain Lube] (http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bicycle-4-Ounce-Squeeze/dp/B002IDZXRM/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting)
  
  
• [Genuine Innovations CO2 Inflator] (http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Innovations-G2628-Ultraflate-Inflator/dp/B002AGI1QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420015344&sr=8-1&keywords=innovations+co2+inflator)
  
  If you're looking to up your riding game, everything listed above will save you from any trouble you have on the road. Cycling computer is always neat to have too!
  
  Cygolite Metro 400 and the Hotshot are brilliant. The lights definitely pack a strong punch. I'll tell you right now, unless the lighting in your town sucks ass or you go off road riding, the metro 400 is a great light and you don't really need to go much higher than that.
  

So at 6'3" its rather frustrating to keep seeing deals on bikes and then note that they are 55-58cm. I am trying to keep to advice that I have seen all over this subreddit that you should make sure it fits and that you don't buy the $300 bikes like the Giordano or GMC Denali. Why does the 5-8cm really matter? This past week I saw a post (I wish I could find it right now, I was the really nicely composed shot with unperceivable fill flash and ax for a kickstand) where his seat was jacked to the max, he said it does give him a aggressive riding position but that mostly he found it more comfortable. What are your words of wisedom O' Grand /r/bicycling?

The best value reputable brand light is Cygolite. The metro 400 is $37.50 on Amazon. The 600, at $47 would be my choice, but if you can't afford that, the 400 is still excellent. If you can't afford the $37.50, get a gift card for what you can afford.

I just got:
Front - Cygolite 350
Back - Cateye Rapid3

Spent just over $100. The front light is incredibly bright at the brightest setting. There are two lower settings and a strobe mode that makes me think of that scene from the movie Kickass. The rear light blink modes are great for streets and trails and the always on mode is really bright. FWIW.

Any lock can be broken given time, more secure locks take more time. There are various opinions and you can look at various tests people have done (Men's Journal/Gizmodo). However I tend to recommend a u-lock, the chains are very secure but heavy.

Example of a Chain

The Lock I Have

Every brand has various security levels, so you can research and see where your cost to security ratio is, but a cheap lock will be cheap and easier to get through.

I would look into things like barmits
Good set of safety lights
Face masks, wind breakers, bike rack and panniers.
Get anything that will make riding in any weather or condition comfortable.
Patch kit, tools, or spare tubes always good to have extra.

Budget's too low to buy a quality lock. Just browsing Amazon.ca and the cheapest one I would recommend is this one.

There are some OnGuard ones too for less, but the reviews were mixed and some said that the locks freeze in the winter. You could check those out if you want but read the reviews because they do some sneaky things like making the U part thinner to save on weight (but it actually just makes it a easier lock to break).

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: Brush it, perhaps?


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|UK|www.amazon.co.uk|Macmillan|




To help add charity links, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

The Bicycle Wheel 3rd Edition

THE definitive source for wheel building IMO

Available used for <$10

Earlier editions perfectly OK for 99% of wheel builders

Sheldon Browns page on this is also very good, just not to the depth Jobst Brandts book goes to

Both and yes it's not much harder to carry than just a cable lock if you coil your cable like this.

This is what I use: http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Mini-7-Brkt-7-Inch-4-feet/dp/B004C94T84/ (but the comment on the mounting bracket are valid - you can work around it or buy a replacement one).

Full disclosure: I'm not affiliated with this product apart from owning it myself, nor do I have anything to gain other than reddit karma - in fact, if everybody started using locks like these in my city, I might have to start looking to something better...

started in portland, got a ride to the coast, then pretty much followed the book rest of way.

i also had the gpx file of ACA route and the pdf of brochure from oregon department of transportation that had a recommended route.

reading the book every morning/evening to get an idea of the route and points of interest was really nice.

Not the person you replied to, but I use these on my roadie and they're great. Also consider running flashing lights even in daytime as I've found that helps a bit.

Hi /r/bicycling! It's summer time and I was wanting to buy a roadbike, and started looking online (Amazon and such), when I came across these two models: GMC Denali and the Takara Kabuto.

I was wondering which one would be a better bike to start off with if I have never owned a road bike before. I noticed that the Takara bike is single-speed while the GMC bike isn't (does it make much of a difference ride-wise?)

Any help would be appreciated.

Sorry for my noobness, but are you talking about something like this? I have the same issue as Schmackelnuts, and don't have the money for a new bike right now, so I'd like to make my hybrid more comfortable.

Agree, Pedro's are the best.

They even handle my Marathons easily.

There's a book by that very name: https://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Science-Press-Gordon-Wilson/dp/0262731541/ref=tmm_pap_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=&sr=

I've only read a few chapters, but it covers a lot of pretty interesting topics.

Nice bike... looks light compared to my winter tank! I think you'll enjoy this bike.

My Fatbike tip is once it's below -20C, get some bar mitts like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009F9ZQH4/ref=as_li_tf_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=bicycling0d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B009F9ZQH4&ascsubtag=%5BASIN%7CB009F9ZQH4%5Bnid%7C2246911%5Bvid%7C2424011%5Bbrand%7CBKE%5Butm%7C

cygolite 350 worth every penny. You will BE SEEN and SEE everything. Don't skimp on lights, they could save your life one day.

this is a good rear light if you don't already have one.

Its looking good!

To get handlebars like those, you need to fit handlebar extensions such as these :

http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Pro-Pulsion-Compe-Lite-Ends/dp/B002I7PRUQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1344795835&sr=1-2&keywords=bar+extensions

I just ordered this off of Amazon- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00QVJNR3G/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Will report back with my findings.

Update: It arrived yesterday. It didn't take long to assemble, and I was on it and riding fairly quickly. The first thing that I noticed was that it doesn't pedal smoothly. Maybe it needs to "break in," but it's annoying to the point where I feel it's a deal breaker. The second thing is the vibration, which isn't overly loud, but I'm pretty sure my downstairs neighbors wouldn't appreciate it much. All said, I think I'm going to send it back. I'd rather put that money towards a better model.

Just purchased its more substantial cousin. It's cheap, easy on/off, and adjustable. Do recommend.

Something like this maybe?

http://www.amazon.com/Sprintech-Drop-Mirror-Black-Pair/dp/B00168K3IY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1376792929&sr=8-6&keywords=bike+mirror

I use one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Italian-Road-Bike-un-helmet-Mirror-bicycle-racing-mirrors-Buy-It-Now-/390587342764?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5af0d1dfac

This mirror isnt bad, I picked it because its a little sleeker, and doesnt have vibration issues that the other one purportedly has. Its not a bad mirror, but it can be a little tricky to get it pointing where you want it to. My advice if you buy this is to make sure its exactly where you want it before covering it with bar tape.

I think if you look around, you'll see that every major bicycle maker has a large variety of bicycles available. Almost all of them offer at least a few options made of carbon, aluminum, and steel. Not all high-end, lightweight bikes are carbon. Weight very much matters in some applications. In others, it doesn't as much. In your application, it doesn't as much.

Tires: Wider tires allows you to run lower pressure. This can help in both comfort and traction with certain surfaces.

I'm about your size, carfree, and live in a City with horrible roads (mostly from all the snow plowing). I wouldn't dream of running below 35cm front and rear. My most often used bike is a rigid 29er that weighs in near 30lbs with front and rear racks.

I'm not familiar wit touring bikes set up as you describe. Most touring rigs run wider than 23/25.

If you're into the science of this endeavor, this book is pretty great.

https://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Science-Press-Gordon-Wilson/dp/0262731541

I'm currently using the Cygolite Expilion 350-Lumen USB Rechargeable Headlight and a Planet Bike Blaze 1 Watt Led Headlight on different bikes. They're both pretty good, but if you're doing trail riding in the dark you'll likely want a bike mounted light as well as a helmet one so you can see/light-up where you're looking.

The Cygolite's lowest setting is brighter than the brightest setting of the Planet Bike, but is twice as expensive. It also has a rechargeable battery which hasn't really been a big deal as I have access to a computer all day at work and can plug it in there if needed. (It comes with a wall charger too though)

Yep. I was sceptical. But it works pretty great. I only ride with the one... mostly because I didnt seem to need the second one and have always tried to maintain the philosophy that "ounces make pounds."

Key word is tried.

Sprintech Drop Bar Mirror, Black, Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00168K3IY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aUm0CbNVGJKR3

I use this Kryptonite lock in SF, but 75% of the time I don't have the cable with me. I do have security skewers though. The lock is smaller but will secure the back wheel to parking meters and leaves minimal space.

Here are some deals I've seen and when they come up or shut down. (All times are Pacific)


USB Rechargable Bike Tail Light on sale at 3:45

Foam Rollers go on sale at 4

Kryptonite 18mm New York Fahgettaboudit U-Lock, Black Goes on sale at 3

Revolights bicycle lighting system Midnight

Womens Pearl Izumi Shorts

Pearl Izumi Jerseys 4:00

Different pearl izumi bibs

Pearl Izumi shorts 5:45

Pearl Izumi bibs as shown below 4:45

Canari womens shorts

Brooks saddles bicycle bar tap 2:45

Yakima DoubleDown 4-Bike Hitch Mount Rack 4:45

Very compact sleeping bag 4:30

Compact first aid kit 3:00

Kryptonite Evolution Mini-5 Bicycle Ulock 3:35

headlamp 5:30

Polar Heart Rate Monitor 3:30

LED Strobe Lights 2:30

Youphoria Sport Towel ends at 3:15ish



Sram Bar Tape ends at 2:50
Kryptonite NY Standard on sale 6:50

Does she have a U lock? The nice and thick U locks can be somewhat expensive so I think it'd be a good gift.

Also a nice multitool is crucial for serious cyclists to fix stuff on the go and to just have an all in one tool for working on the bike at home.

I used this light before I found something brighter on a ridiculously good sale:

https://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Metro-400-USB-Light/dp/B00LXTOT6I

It's really good for the price, the only thing I don't like about it is that it uses mini-USB rather than micro-USB.

This plus this. After every ride I wipe the chain down with a dry microfiber rags. Nothing on the outside of the chain needs to be there. Twice a week (about 12 hours of riding) I apply some of the T-9, let it sit, and wipe clean. Also wipe off the jockey wheels. In my opinion, the key to a clean drive train is lubing after rides and letting it dry (after wiping excess off), not right before you go out.

^I ^love ^a ^silent ^ride.

So I use my road bike as my means of transportation, I recently bought new tires and forgot to buy new tubes, the bike is a 74 schwinn le tour and the tires are 27 1/4. I was wondering what size tubing to use, also if I was looking to buy chain lubricant do you think this is ok? Thanks for any suggestions/help!

The Evo 7 mini is a more secure and not quite as heavy for not much more cash. But the one you linked is fine as well.

You could read for years on bikeforums.net and not get bored.

My favorite hardcopy bike books:

• The Bicycle Wheel by Jobst Brandt
  
• Kings of the Road Robin Macgowan
  
• The Golden Age of Handbuilt Bicycles (My copy has unfortunate drool spots all over the awesome photographs)
  
• Flying Scotsman Graeme Obree
  

Here's a cheap tool to help you guide the tire on and off the rim, LBS's carry them as well as online obviously

Just be careful not to pinch the tube outside the tire.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005YPK9VQ/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is what i have, for when you do get a better lock i recommend that

here's a list of stuff i have and use frequently that i feel others would probably appreciate: airzound air horn, one of these two mounts, multi-tool, CO2 tire inflator, there's no such thing as too many patch kits, bikeglow safety light, PDW danger zone tail light, lezyne micro floor pump, louis garneau super prestige cold weather gloves

On the x-posted thread someone was asking about gear load out... so thought I'd put it here as well..

In the saddle under the seat:

1. 20 dollar bill (to use as cash, not to fix a puncture :))
   
2. A crank brothers 19-piece multi-tool
   
   
3. A spare tube (700x25c)
   
4. Rema Tip Top Touring (TT 02) patch kit
   
5. Pedro's tire levers x 2
   
6. Home Made Medical Kit (antibiotic ointment, bandages, alcoholic wipes, gauze pads, a knife, ibuprofen/pain killer)
   
7. Zip ties (x4) for any kinda MacGuyver repairs :)
   
   In the snack bag on the top tube:
   
   
8. 2 Snack bars (Kind/Clif usually)
   
9. Some salt pills (if it's too hot and I'm sweating like nuts I'll take 1 per hour)
   
10. My wallet
    
11. My keys
    
    On my person:
    
    
12. Just the bike gear that I'm wearing
    
13. a RoadID incase of emergencies or a crash
    
    
    As for clothes at work, I have a locker so stock up once a week on them.. and also keep toiletries at work. HTH!

You can get this bike for $159 with free shipping. The only catch is you have to assemble it yourself. I bought one of these GMC bikes (though not this exact model) from Amazon 6 years ago and am still riding it a couple days a week. It probably took me 2 hours to put the bike together, and required tons of internet searches so that I could adjust the brakes properly. However, it isn't rocket science. If you can put together an IKEA cabinet, you can assemble a bike.

Nope, I do this. Wish I was him though. If you're similarly physics and cycling inclined, you should check this book out. It's a really great treatment of the physics on bike wheels.

I prefer this one to make sure you can secure both wheels http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Mini-7-4-Foot-Flex-Lock/dp/B004C94T84/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I3IM64FI70Y8LM&colid=3UPQCBXZC2IHH

Fixed your link

I hope I didn't jump the gun, but you got your link syntax backward! Don't worry bro, I fixed it, have an upvote!

• this one
  
  
  
  ^Bot ^Comment ^- ^[ ^Stats ^& ^Feeds ^] ^- ^[ ^Charts ^] ^- ^[ ^Information ^for ^Moderators ^] ^- ^[ ^Live ^Image ^Feed ^]

I've ridden parts of it. Don't feel like you have to reserve campsites ahead of time. There's a book called Bicycling the Pacific Coast (https://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Pacific-Coast-Complete-Canada/dp/0898869544) which is an amazing resource.

Cygolite 350.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005DVA37Q

I have one, my wife has one. Very bright.

While it's not bike repair related Bicycling Science is one of my favorite books ever. As the title implies it's about the science behind the man/machine combo.

Hap hap hello there! I am a bot and you linked to Amazon.

This comment contains 1 pricing graph(s)

____

Product 1: Conquer Pro Indoor Bicycle Trainer Exercise Machine - Variable Magnetic Resistance (B00QVJNR3G)

Imgur pricing graph

||Amazon|3P New|Used|
|--:|:--|:--|:--|
|Cur||$69.95|Not in Stock|
|Hi||$79.95|$71.96|
|Lo||$59.95|$60.86|
|Avg||$71.87|$67.82|

_____

^^I'm ^^a ^^bot. ^^Please ^^PM ^^any ^^bugs

This is generally considered a good place to start: http://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Wheel-Jobst-Brandt/dp/0960723668

shit...you can even get them cheaper and STILL be better off than this guy.

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-Bicycle-FlexFrame-3-25-Inch/dp/B005YPK9VQ/

http://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-Pitbull-U-Lock-4-Inch-9-06-Inch/dp/B005YPKBWI/

Both are good locks.

Those should be sweet, though obviously with slicks you'll want to take it more cautiously if riding offroad with turning and braking, especially if it's not a harder surface. But as long as it's not muddy or loose sand/dirt you should still have a decent amount of grip from a 2" tire.

Get a pair of tire levers so you can get your old tires off and the new ones on, get a spare inner tube or two as well in case you get a puncture, and a decent pump with a gauge if you don't have one already as it's important to pump the tires up to the correct pressure, running them too soft means punctures are far more likely and the bike can handle badly in corners and need more effort to pedal along.

Actually, this looks promising, as there are replacement skewers for it.

Do you think the kryptonite mini 7 or mini 5 is better? I was reading that smaller is better in terms of having less maneuvering space for the thief. This combo doesn't seem like a bad deal. http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Mini-7-4-Foot-Flex-Lock/dp/B004C94T84

Well this book has the route planned out. We stopped at most of the places it recommended http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bicycling-Pacific-Coast-Complete-Canada/dp/0898869544/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1324037901&sr=8-1

And these maps were invaluable http://www.adventurecycling.org/routes/pacificcoast.cfm probably used them more than we used the book. If you want more detail I can dig out my journal and tell you exactly what we did.

Try Bar Mitts. They go on your handlebars, and create a nice little space for heat to stay while also blocking the wind. There are a few styles available depending on what type of bike you ride (MTB or road).

I bought this off amazon a few months ago:
http://www.amazon.com/GMC-Denali-Medium-Frame-Yellow/dp/B002GNWPK2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1330843200&sr=8-1

1. You have to put most of it together yourself, and the stuff that comes pre-assembled is done poorly (so you have to google how to adjust both your derailleurs).
   
   
2. The stickers are ugly but they're attached with the most ungodly glue ever designed by man. I wasted several hours of my life trying everything I had (Goo-gone, goof-off, etc) until it finally succumbed to elbow grease and the spray isopropyl alcohol I use for cleaning circuit boards.
   
   
3. It's 10lbs heavier than most bikes, which means you have to work considerably harder.
   
   Maybe if I'm still riding in a year I'll spend money on a nice bike, but until then I really like this cheapie.

So, probably not a light set for yourself (but I have recommendations for kids setups). However, I run a Cygolite Metro 400($20.....which a few years ago they was $45) on all my bikes paired with a Portland design works Red Planet 5($15) and they work great.

Edit I did mean for yourself (I'm an idiot), but not like a set for your younger kids wanting to ride with you.

Bite my shiny metal ass.

Dont forget a lock. I use this one $80 this one is more affordable $35

drunkriding requires lighting. People seem to like cygolite.

[Nice singlespeed tool $20 ] (https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-142724-Trixie-Fixie-Tool/dp/B001Q221GM)

That bike has rack mounts. Racks mean you can bring more than one case of beer home at a time.

I dont carry much else on the singlespeed. A small $2 patch kit, tire levers and an inflator.

Edit: The Modified Sheldon, credit: 802bikeguy

In a book I'm currently reading (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bicycling-Science-David-Gordon-Wilson/dp/0262731541), there's a "mile/gallon" calculation for various modes of transport. Bicycles work out to be in the order of 500 mpg, if we assume there's food with the same calorific value as petrol... While not a particularly useful comparison, it puts things into perspective.

If you can swing the expense, you won't regret these Bar Mitts.

I use this:

Kryptonite Evo Mini-7 with 4-Foot Flex Lock

I like the frame and back wheel with the U Lock, and then my front tire with the cable. When I lived in SF, I took my seat with me, too, but while I'm in Athens, GA while my GF is in grad school, I leave my seat.

No. WD-40 is a water displacer, not a lubricant. It will actually strip away the oil from your bike parts and leave them rubbing metal-on-metal. Get some real bike lube like T-9.

this book lays out exactly which state parks have hiker/biker sites, where on the coast they are, and what other amenities there are.

I'll be doing this very trip next month.

*handlebar high five*

I plan on using this book : Bicycling The Pacific Coast

I seem to recall from a different context that it is the serial retrogrouch and über-curmudgeon known as Jobst Brandt.

EDIT: confirmed

Read The Bicycle Wheel.
http://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Wheel-3rd-Jobst-Brandt/dp/0960723668

Read this

I've been building my own wheels since the 90's. I use this book, it's my bible.

Post your results!

Pedros Tire Levers

The bike link is - https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/road/diverge/diverge-comp-dsw/106644
The mirror is - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00168K3IY

Wally meaning Wal-Mart, despite having gotten my GMC Denali from Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/GMC-Denali-Medium-Frame-Yellow/dp/B002GNWPK2

If you have somewhere to be this will get you there for under $200.

Most Cygolites I've seen actually. Here's mine.

Kryptonite ny standard $53.99 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005YPK9SY/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1468374829&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ulock

mine is a little shorter and thicker and hasn't let me down yet(also nyc)
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-Bicycle-FlexFrame-3-25-Inch/dp/B005YPK9VQ/ref=sr_1_15?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373928708&sr=1-15&keywords=bike+lock

I'd buy this one instead.

I've personally been using that lock for the past year or so when I lock my bike at the train station.

edit: Fixed backward link syntax.

SKS S-Blade Rear Fender for 700c wheels https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZTLR3C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OCLQCbY7RVWGP

A bike-specific multi-tool is nice in case something goes wrong.

I use this one personally.

You know - I double checked - the REI one is not the one I have and it has some bad reviews re: it moving around. Here is a link to the one I do have and like i said - it holds its position:

http://www.amazon.com/Sprintech-Drop-Mirror-Black-Pair/dp/B00168K3IY/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1372542931&sr=1-1&keywords=sprintech+mirrors

I remember I paid around thirty bucks for it.

Bar Mitts are indispensable if you are prone to cold hands/fingers. They make variants for both flat and drop bars. I much prefer them over lobster gloves or ski gloves.