(Part 3) Best products from r/bikewrench

I bought a "deluxe toolkit" from Nashbar while ago, and I still use a lot of them, but some of them just didn't cut it.
If I am going to buy all the tools I have right now, I'd probably buy these.

• Feedback sports bike stand
  
• Rezyne (or Hozan) pedal wrench
  
• Wiha color coded hex keys
  
• Pro bike chain tool
  
• Quick link plier - I have a Park tool one.
  
• Tire levers, rubber cement and and patch. I like Rezyne's steel tire levers the best.
  
• Metric combination wrenches from any hardware or automotive store
  
• Park Tool cable cutter
  
• 5 and 6nm torque wrench
  
• Big ish adjustable wrench
  
• Cassette removal and chain whip - pretty much any brand.
  
• Lezyne 20 Tooth / 8 Notch Splined Bottom Bracket Socket Tool - if you have like square taper and old ish BB
  
• Shimano Hollowtech II BB tool by Bikehand if you have Hollowtech BB.
  
• Bike specific grease. I have a few but probably ProGold grease, and Boeshield T-9 oil.
  
  But, if you are buying a kit, Bikehand (expensive one) is pretty nice, but I would buy the better ones as piece meal as you go along.
  Also, if you have a bike coop in your area, use it. You can learn how to use the tools, and you can also try the tools from various brand. It's mostly Park and Pedro's.
  
  EDIT: Things like cone wrenches that comes in the kit isn't very good. In the long run, Park/Hozan/Pedro's cone wrenches is a much better investment.

The cheapest option to get the shifters up to the bars is to use old-school stem shifters. There are plenty of idiots that think they're amateur and will tell you silly things like they impale people in crashes or whatever but it's just more cycling-culture snobbery. Bar-end mounted shifters are nice but if you don't ride on the drops they can still be a reach... and it would cost anywhere from 30-100$ to get them. Brake-shifters are at least 100$ and you'd need to convert to 7 speed at least to use them. Personally I love DT shifters and would encourage you to try and use 'em, it'll become second-nature before long.

I've worked on heaps of bikes just like this at our local co-op and they do indeed last a long time with minimal work. Learn to measure your chain for wear (check the Sheldon Brown link or Park tools) you only need a ruler to do it. Plain old 5/6/7 speed chain is around 10$ for a new one, same with freewheels.

I would buy stainless cables and new housing for the brakes, as well as new pads. The brakes themselves look decent and can provide more than adequate stopping power, the only downside is that they sometimes tend to end up out of centre after a while.

I'll also agree with all the other postsers that Paselas are probably the nicest tire in 27", I have two bikes them and they are pretty good all-around. Continental Gatorskins used to be easy to find in 27" but I haven't looked in a while, they are more flat-resistant but offer a harsher ride because of it.

I'll probably have the LBS do the BB with me watching, but it will be good for later that way. Seems to definitely be the recommendation to go BSA, so thats the way I'm going.

Regarding the headset, thats this guy you're referring to, right?

Regarding the crank and shifters, I have heard good things about MicroShift for the Arsis and White, the common comment though is that they have a long throw. I'm determined to try them out, but I'm well aware they may be cast off quickly. As far as the crank goes though, I'm open to using the R700, I'll take a look and see what I can find.

And good call on the pedals, I didn't put much thought into them. My PD-T700's are double sided, something I really like. The XT-M780 would fit nicely.

General rule of thumb for 10-speed or fewer for Shimano: the number of sprockets in the cassette should match the number of speeds for the shifters, and the rear-derailleur should be Shimano compatible (which basically means the amount of cable pulled per mm of movement remains the same). A MTB derailleur allows for wider gearing in the back (bigger sprockets), but is otherwise being pulled the same amount by the shifters (same number of sprockets).

It's never a bad idea to spend a little extra on brakes, but I actually have had great luck with Sunlite cantilever brakes as long as a) you set it up correctly and b) use a different, higher quality set of brake pads.

>3x9

If you have a triple, yes, but the specs I found online for this year's model (that I'm basing my advice on) say it has a double... ProTip: For best advice, post pictures of your bike, especially closeups of the components you're asking questions about.

This is a crown race remover. You can often manage to remove the crown race by turning the fork upside down, and using a large flathead screwdriver and a hammer to gently tap the crown race off the steerer. Then use a length of PVC pipe and the hammer to install it on the new fork.

Take a look at Pedro's tools. They are a little cheaper than Park, but are excellent tools. As /u/singlejeff said, get some basic stuff, but hit up your local co-op for the more expensive tools.

Here is a solid start:

Park Tool ST-3 I use this thing constantly, and Pedro's doesn't have a similar tool.

Pedro's Y Wrench Go ahead and get both the 4,5,6 and 2,2.5,3.

These three tools live in my apron. Absolute go-to tools.

Additionally, get an adjustable wrench(I love my Klein Tools wrench) a set of JIS Screwdrivers so you don't strip out your screw heads,

A good cable cutter

Some important chain tools are the Park CT-3.2 and also pick up the Park MLP 1.2 and CC-3.2(which imo is the absolute easies chain wear checker).

I would also suggest a L Hex wrench set you can pick em up cheaper at Lowes or whatever, but critical for getting stuck pedals off, speaking of which, a Pedal Wrench.

Finally a crank puller you really don't have to go expensive on this thing. I see em as disposable, because as soon as I see thread wear, I shit can em. I stripped out a vintage Stronglight crank and a C Record crankset using a worn out crank puller. No bueno.

All this shit will be expensive, but if bought over time, you will have a solid set of tools eventually. These are my favorite tools, I am sure others have their opinions.

I used a stem adapter to use a threadless stem for my Rockhopper. I have vbrakes on it now too. I decided just to run full cable housing to the rear brakes and have just taped my housing to the frame to secure it (yes this bike is my backup winter bike/beater summer bike so looks don't matter to me)

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If you want to run Canti's still, you can get one of these for the front fork center mount to add a cable stop.

https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Brake-Mount-Cable-Hanger/dp/B00SYZS2IA

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You could fine a more elegant solution to secure the housing to the frame, zip ties, colour matching electrical tape etc. You could check your local co-op for some of those plastic cable securing rings to go around your top tube holding the housing.

These are pretty standard budget aftermarket brakes. The important thing is to measure from the mounting bolt to the plane of the brake pads on your current set in order to find the reach, then find replacements that fit. Looking at Giant Kronos pics, they look like pretty modern short-medium reach brakes.

Another option is to figure out what model of crank/derailleurs you have and find the brakes that were part of that groupset when they were sold new.

Honestly, I wouldn't bother moving from 3x8. New derailleurs etc will over-capitalize the bike for no real benefit. Would however remove and bin the grip shifters and replace with Shimano ef51 shifter/brake combo units for a much nicer riding experience, and would maybe also think about some new V-Brake units like these Shimano br-t4000, do some new cables/housing and maybe a new BB.

For the fork, something like the Surly Pack Rat (I think yours is a 1 1/8) would be an option. In terms of riding position, I would swap in a shorter 50mm-60mm stem instead of what looks like a 110mm (as u/miasmic said). and mess around with the spacer arrangement.

These alterations, EF51 click shifters, newer/stiffer V-Brakes, new cables and cockpit re-arrangement, should rejuvenate the bike significantly.

Yes, you can use either one of these, but it looks like you'll also need to lengthen the brake cable. If you get the adjustable one I'm posting, it'll pull the bars back to the rider, giving the same effect, and you might not have to lengthen the cable. all these types of products come in different lengths too. Make sure to measure the stem width, usually 1 1/8th across.

https://www.amazon.com/Suncentech-Adjustable-Mountain-Handlebar-Components/dp/B077JXCKB3/ref=sr_1_7?crid=12BFTSCP9YPP1&keywords=bicycle+handlebar+adjustable+stem+riser&qid=1562554708&s=gateway&sprefix=bicycle+handlebar+adjustable+stem+riser%2Caps%2C230&sr=8-7


https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Bicycle-Extender-Handlebar/dp/B000FGYKWS/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=bicycle+stem+riser&qid=1562555126&s=gateway&sr=8-11

My favorite way around this is to modify the rack hardware. This is made easier if you're on good terms with a shop that's been around a minute, and they happen to have a bin full of leftover rack hardware (most if not all racks come with extra to suit different bikes). Remove the upper struts and bend it such that it routes around the brake entirely. If you want really sharp bends/angles, I recommend employing a bench vise.

If you're unconcerned with looks, keep in mind that as long as it doesn't contact the brake or interfere with its action, any solution really works, no matter how rough and ready it looks. The upper struts are not weight bearing in any way, and are simply there to prevent your rack from pivoting backwards on the m5 mounting screws.

Edit: you can also get a monostay adapter for this frame, and mount above the brake: https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Monostay-Adapter-One-Piece/dp/B07CG9P7TY

Your chain falling off was probably caused by your bottom bracket falling apart

The kit you found would work, but you probably don't need the whole thing. The bits that screw onto the crank are called cones. The bits in the frame are called cups. If your cones or cups are pitted, you need to replace them. They are pitted if they feel rough. If only the bearing cages are broken you can buy 5/16'' bearing cages with 10 balls per cage. At a shop, they probably would be between two to three dollars each.

You can use a ruler to measure chain stretch, but your chain is probably fine. Is this a single speed with a coaster brake? If so, as long as you can pull the rear wheel back so the chain is tight enough, and it does not pop off when you pedal hard, it's fine. I'm aware you probably need to put together the bottom bracket first to test this.

If you do decide to replace the chain, you may want to examine your chain ring and rear cog. If the teeth look like a sharks fin, you should replace them. If not, they are probably fine.

If you want to super duper sure and just replace everything that could be causing the problem, and you do have a single speed with a coaster brake, you will need the above mentioned bearings, plus this chain, this style of chainring, that has the same number of teeth as your old chainring, and this style of cog, with the same number of teeth as your old cog. Unless your crank is bent, there is no reason to replace it. Those cranks are very sturdy.

If you don't have a single speed coaster brake, you might need a different chain, chain ring, and cog. Let me know what you have and I can try to help you get the right parts.

If you would like to purchase a couple tools that will make your life easier that would be my preference. Not saying ive never hammered and screw driver bearings out ( it doesnt matter if you beat them up as long as you do not damage hub). I bought a bearing remover for my dirt bike and it works well with my bike as well.

Also you can get a bearing press for cheap money. Makes life easier and you can use it if you ever replace headset cups or anything. You can def. get away with using a socket to pound in the bearing if you do not want the tools.

https://www.amazon.com/TOOL-BEARING-WOB-UNIVERSAL-PRESS/dp/B01MU3K0I1/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=37PM0YIDFQV6Q&keywords=tool+bearing+wob+universal+bb+press&qid=1569354103&s=gateway&sprefix=tool+bearing+%2Caps%2C138&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=AMY4I718ZUBOU&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzM0I4VUJORjlYSzBEJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjMwODIxMzRLTkFUWEdQUkJLOSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzE3NjA3MTFORDBNWEo3S1pTVyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W1219-Professional-Puller/dp/B000FW7W6S/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=performance+tool+w1219&qid=1569354202&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Buy tools as needed, no need to stock up with everything right away. Most park tools I buy on Amazon and get them within two days. Tools I would get right away though would be

• 1" Crescent Wrench
  
• Park Tool Cassette Remover
  
• Chain Whip, for removal of a cassette
  
• Park Tool 3-Way (in 4, 5 & 6mm)
  
• A chain tool of some sorts
  
  As for cabling
  
  Universal Brake Cables on Amazon, just make sure you cut of the correct end.
  
  Here is a shift cable set.
  
  As for cutting the cables and housing, do NOT use standard wire cutters. You need a parrot style nosed set of cutters, like this Pedros set. I bought a cheap set of cutters on eBay that work great. When I cut housing I use a little sand paper to flush up the ends.
  
  The 4th hand is not really needed, I get by fine without it.

Great info, thanks so much. I will be getting this book in the mail tomorrow, and I intend to read through it before I go to town. Much appreciated.

thank you so much. I just did notice the pictures for that product are for two different products, and that does not bode well.

I have been checking Tektro site and I can't find four finger short pull that are stocked. None of the makers seem to have an attribute sort for number of fingers and pull length. Ebay for those specs seems to be full of pull offs from used bikes so they maybe in no better shape than my current ones. I now know I should have just converted everything since I will be overpaying for legacy product. even the links/yokes for the cables just above the actual brakes are old school and premium.

Any help with specific model lever would be appreciated.

Does this seem like it is ok?https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Tektro-RT354AG-V-Brake-Levers/dp/B0014FM2KG

on tektro site here: https://www.tektro.com/products.php?p=70

Although this one says four finger and caliper (presumably short pull?) https://www.tektro.com/products.php?p=204

It says three fingers, which is one better than two and one worse than four

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tourney-8-Speed-Mountain-Derailleur/dp/B00O7XMG1C

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Like that one?

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There are a couple of others that want me to chose between 'direct attachment' and 'with riveted adapter' like this one:

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https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-RD-A070-Road-Rear-Derailleur/dp/B007Q4PBNO/ref=asc_df_B007Q4PBNO

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Thanks.

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Watching youtube videos about how to replace and adjust a derailleur right now...

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(edit: also https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-RD-TY300-Derailleur-Compatible-Upgraded/dp/B01GO02W5K/ )

You could try a harder pad, but often that results in less friction or more force required at the lever to get the same braking performance. Kool-stop used to make great rim brake pads and appear to still make them. Might be worth a try.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014BRW6E/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_hnEYDbJ9WSXJP


They are about twice the cost initially but once pad replacement is required, the insert is about the same price at the pads you currently use.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJVA9S/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_4pEYDb6FBC54S

If you decide to try these or any other pad, verify fitment. It's been years since I've worked on a road bike and don't know if compatibility is what I remember. They visually look the same as far as mounting goes.

Give a man a match and he'll be warm for a second; set a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life.

Dude, building wheels is some of the most frustration I've ever felt. Totally possible but the learning curve is steep. I've used this book. Good luck.


That feeling when your fully laced spokes cross over the valve hole

Edit: the right link to the book

I got some downtube shifters from amazon pretty cheap, and they've been working great for me so far.

They look cheap, because they are cheap, but I liked them more than my stem shifters. I didn't want to disassemble my stem shifters to put on this bracket, but you probably could if you wanted.

http://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-SLR03-Friction-Stem-Shifter/dp/B0084UHAJM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449807462&sr=8-2&keywords=Downtube+shifters

EDIT: they even came with cables

Everything related to installation and removal of headsets and races. I use a home made headset press (cost about $5, has worked perfectly for nearly 20 years), Park RT-1 to remove them, a cheap race removal tool, and a PVC pipe (flared on one end for tapered steerers) with a rubber mallet for race installation.

These things are also handy, since you use lots of cable ties on bikes, and it cuts off the excess without leaving a sharp point. It's also great for really tightening down the ties.

Also get a torque wrench with Allen sockets.

Knowing nothing else except your price point (which I think is on the high end for a headset...*), I'd suggest one of these, which ever is compatible with your frame and fork.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XW7S06/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687602&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B005DUUTXK&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=05CC8B8APBAZ8982V5E3

• At this point, $75 is about $50 away from a bombproof Chris King or Cane Creek 110 or something in the $120 range. Other wise, I've had much success with the Origin8 Pro Sealed headset, about $25 - $30.

Okay, so with $200, assuming I was doing the work:

Wrap handlebars - $11.53 (sweet dark red, cause the red on there looks awesome already)
Cheap 700c wheels from co-op - $20? (Talk with them about the gearing to see if the range is the same, or if you want tighter range or whatever, they probably have a few sets there with somewhat different gear ranges on the rear)
Saddle from co-op - $5-10
Tubes/tires - $45 (tires, tubes)
Derailleur cables - $7 (Shimano, here)
Brake cables - $10.39 (Shimano, here)
Brake levers - $22.53 (Tektro RL340)
Brakes - $62 - (Tektro 539 rear, front)
5-speed chain - 7.98 (here)

Then I'd try to get pedals and a cheap but aluminum quill stem, handlebars, and seatpost from the co-op. Depending on where you are, you may be able to get all for $20 or less. Functional new parts suggestions: (not guaranteed to fit. These have all sorts of different diameters over the years/models, so you need to know what you have/need. Handlebars, Seatpost, stem.)

When you graduate beyond Sheldon, you can spend months reading Jobst's bike.wreck postings, much of which would inform Sheldon's thinking. He was a brilliant engineer who understood bicycles, possibly better than nearly anyone else who ever lived, and literally wrote the book on bicycle wheels.

If you're looking for the absolutely cheapest option possible, these cantis will be compatible with your current brake levers (cantilevers and v-brakes use different cable pull ratios). They were easy to adjust, doesn't used those underengineered plastic tensioner rings found on old Shimano cantis, and otherwise worked perfectly fine right up till the day I sold the whole bike.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Alloy-Cantilever-Brake-Silver/dp/B003Q3Y0YK

I strongly recommend this book as well: http://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Wheel-3rd-Jobst-Brandt/dp/0960723668

You could start with better friction pads.

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Dura-Ace-Ultegra/dp/B0014BRW6E/ should fit.

Tektro should make a dual divot caliper that fits, but you'll need to measure the distance from the mount hole to the pads to find the right size.

Of course, that assumes that the cables are new and the levers are of adequate pull.

Or get the pads you want with new holders for less

Or equally good (to 6800) 6700 sets for $10

Or any of the dozens of generic "ultralight" holders on eBay for $9.

Also, while your replacements won't have the same heads likely, shimano "phillips" screws are actually JIS, in the event you weren't aware.

http://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU

Something like that will help prevent them from stripping.

Jobst Brandt was famous for getting in usenet arguments over how wheels should be built / worked structurally. He was one of the first people to run FEA simulations on a (model of a) bike wheel, back when doing so meant writing custom software and waiting hours (maybe days) for results. He literally wrote the book on the subject. People still ignored what he said. http://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Wheel-3rd-Jobst-Brandt/dp/0960723668

Its a compliment and sympathetic shout out, so don't sweat it.

Can anyone comment on this one? https://www.amazon.com/Suncentech-Adjustable-Mountain-Handlebar-Components/dp/B077JXCKB3/ref=asc_df_B077JXCKB3/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312111916046&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15639703477392013726&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030997&hvtargid=pla-404263952538&psc=1

You need the appropriate holder for your brakes.

For lots of Shimano/Shimano-type road brakes, that's this one: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Dura-Ace-Ultegra/dp/B0014BRW6E

OK, here's what you need:

• MTB levers: https://www.amazon.com/Avid-Speed-Bicycle-Brake-Graphite/dp/B000YBEJKW
  
  
• Bars: https://www.amazon.com/RaceFace-Ride-Flat-710mm-Black/dp/B005Z27VT6
  
  
• Grips: https://www.amazon.com/Gobike-Silicone-Cycling-Mountain-Handlebar/dp/B01J3FPITU
  
  
• Cable cutter: https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-131839-Bicycle-Cable-Cutter/dp/B000IZEH3S
  
  As for the shifters, it's not totally clear. You should first try removing the MicroShift bar-end shifters and see if you can disassemble the bar-end mounting piece from the shifter lever. Ultimately you need shifters that look like this: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Dura-Ace-SL-7900-10-Speed-Shifters/dp/B001LPK8JG (or you can just buy those). Or, you might decide you want the shifters on your bars instead, in which case: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SLX-RapidFire-Mountain-Bicycle/dp/B007Q4M8RQ - if you go this way you may also need a new front derailleur (a Shimano mountain one, instead of the Tiagra road one you have).
  
  You may also need new cables but probably you can cut the existing ones down (either way you need the cutters above).

Also, these are the Kool Stop Dura Ace pad holders that I was talking about. They should work with your old brakes: http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Dura-Ace-Ultegra/dp/B0014BRW6E

The Bicycle Wheel is generally billed as the book on bicycle wheels. If you really wanted to understand the nuts and bolts (nipples and eyelets?), that should get you started. I've found Sheldon's page on the matter plenty for my limited aspirations. Don't be afraid to hit up r/wheelbuild too.

>I'll definitely be doing butted spokes!

Please do. The best wheelbuilders in the world will tell you to use butted spokes in their books and on their websites. We're talking about guys like Jobst Brandt, Sheldon Brown, and Peter White. I'll leave it up to you to confirm what I'm saying, but, butted spokes make stronger wheels.

Put simply: the thin middle section of a butted spoke can expand and contract to take stress off the rim. It also takes stress off the J-Bend of the spoke. I'm a fat-as-fuck rider and 100% of the spokes I've broken (and I've broken a lot) happen at the J-Bend.

If you want to research further you can read https://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Wheel-3rd-Jobst-Brandt/dp/0960723668

If you do you'll understand why I had a rear wheel built 3-cross instead of 4-cross.