(Part 3) Best products from r/oculus

I would definitely avoid that hub. With 7 external ports the internal design will be two USB host controllers daisy chained together so 4 of those ports will at a minimum have to go through 3 host controllers to send data back to the PC. Very risky and prone to issues which will be explained below.

Apologies for the wall of text but it is all quite important to explain why USB hubs are not the best idea for a number of reasons. Only go the hub route if you have no other choice like you have a laptop and a PCI card if not an option. If you have a desktop and free PCI slots then grab one of the PCI cards listed at the end of this post.

USB 3.0 Hubs

The main concern with hubs is that there is an additional USB controller in the chain and if one of those controllers is not compatible then you might have tracking issues. The issue with compatibility is VR needs low latency and high bandwidth which is required for good tracking.

So you have something like this using a hub.

PC -> PCI Bus -> USB Controller -> Hub -> USB Controller -> Sensor.

I put together this image on the weekend to explain it to someone else - https://imgur.com/jI6Istl

If anything in that chain is sub standard you have issues. If you have good USB Controllers in that chain you wont see issues. Just remember a quality hub is only as good as the USB port on your PC you plug it into.

It is also recommended to get a powered USB hub if you have to go the hub route. People sometimes encounter not just a bandwidth/latency bottleneck but a power bottleneck. Importantly some PC USB ports can't push out enough power to power all the devices plugged into the hub. Get a powered hub to avoid this possibility.

Below are two brands Anker and Amazon Basics which are the hubs I commonly see people say have worked for the Rift. The 7 port one will have daisy chained USB controllers internally but people have recommended it so they must be good quality.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

or

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Adapter-Devices/dp/B00PBZX0OM


PCI Cards

Here are the cards that Oculus have recommended (I have personally tested the top two cards) .The blog posts at the end of this post might clear up why hubs are hit and miss for some people due to data/latency bottlenecks that might occur.

StarTek 2 port card (1 ASMedia controller) – Cheaper StarTek option that could be used for 2 sensors or a sensor and headset.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013HT6K3Q

Supported Inatek 4 port card (1 Fresco controller) – Don't get the 5 or 7 port card as the design is not really suited for Rift sensors as it has daisy chained controllers in the design.

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

Use the Inatek for your two front facing cameras and nothing else. Plug your third or fourth USB 2.0 camera and Rift HMD into your motherboard.

Supported StarTek 4 port card (2 Controllers) – Optional middle tier PCI card solution which can run all four sensors or 3 sensors and HMD. Equivalent to two Inatek cards.

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00HJZE9VK

Supported StarTek 4 port card (4 Controllers) – Optional top of the range PCI card solution which can run all four sensors or 3 sensors and HMD. Equivalent to four Inatek cards.

https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S

Both 4 port StarTek cards are pricey and a bit more than is actually required. You could achieve the same thing with 2x four port Inatek cards.

More reading for why USB controllers are important and how you should connect sensors

Oculus put together some blog posts last year explaining best practices. Parts 2 and 3 of Oculus tracking posts explain the USB subsystems and how to get the best config.

• Part 1: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-tips-for-setting-up-a-killer-vr-room/
  
• Part 2: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-balancing-bandwidth-on-usb/
  
• Part 3: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-identifying-host-controllers/
  
• Part 4: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-extra-equipment/
  
  Finally here is my setup and the placement of USB devices amongst all the USB controllers. https://imgur.com/a/fqgRP5p

Man I totally agree. Oculus needs to get their crap together.

So real quick. I have experimented a lot.... Here is what is working for me:

So I bought the inatek KTU3FR-502I pci-express card to go along with Asus Maxiumus VI Formula motherboard. Use the default windows drivers that install when the card is put into the system. DO NOT USE THE latest drivers until you test it first with the defaults. I had nothing but issues with the latest until going back to the windows drivers and now it's much better. Oculus will give a warning about not having the latest drivers just ignore it.

Then I switched to 2 of these cards just as an experiment.

I also have tried 2 of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AVSN2YG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
with success. For this card you need a PCI-Express x4 slot to install it. I have two of these working just great with the default drivers. I have just installed them today and need to test more to make sure no issues crop up but so far everything is just working with no disconnects. The idea behind this USB 3.1 card versus the USB 3.0 card is that USB 3.1 is 10 Gbps versus USB 3.0's 5 Gbps. The USB 3.0 5Gbps is also being shared among multiple ports on your motherboard so taking away from the total power and bandwidth output. So now with the ORICO usb 3.1 cards I have 2 sensors plugged into one card and 1 sensor and the HMD plugged into the other card. Again currently I am using the default windows drivers and everything seems great. If I start getting disconnects I will try their latest drivers.

The idea behind these add-on USB cards is to make sure you are getting adequate power through the USB ports and eliminating cheaply implemented motherboard ports that often have severe bandwidth limitation since motherboard USB ports all tend to share the same bandwidth.

2 Sensors are attached to the ORICO add-on card with CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension Cables

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

as far as I can tell these are the same thing as: Monoprice 109279 that are recommended on the wiki. One of these two is in the FRONT RIGHT of my room and the other is in the LEFT REAR.
The third sensor is not using an extension and is attached the ORICO card USB 3.1 port and is in the FRONT LEFT corner of my room.

The HMD is also attached to one of the ORICO USB 3.1 ports with a AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female - 9.8 Feet (3.0 Meters)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and to extend the HMD HDMI cable I am using Ultra Clarity Cables HDMI Extension Cable 10 FT Ultra Clarity 4K HDMI Extender 2.0 with Ethernet ( 10 FEET ) M / F Port Saver Cables Braided Cord - Support 3D & Audio Return Channel - Latest Version.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So sorry for the long post but I wanted to share my experience and what works for me. Hopefully it will work for you.

Wow. Reddit actually comes through for me! I had this issue. I thought I got a bad unit but checked on my Intel based laptop. Issue was gone. Switched back to my Ryzen based machine and <stutter, stutter>. So I took the advice and purchased this unit from Amazon and it worked! It worked like a charm. Thanks for all the folks that provided the advice. Putting the link to this item in the comment. It's great and cheap and bonus: I have more ports (not that I needed them on the ASUS Crosshair Hero VIII. Thanks again to all .

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072LS4JH7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am also using the Bionik Mantis headphones originally made for the PSVR but they will clip onto the Rift S halo just fine (with some slight modification). I painted mine black using an enamel marker. Photos linked below...

https://imgur.com/a/CVZQXD7

Additional tips:

1. You can add some more comfortable ear-pads to them for about $7.99. They help a bit with the sound quality and feel better. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUL4VVM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. Black Enamel Paint Marker - I got gloss but I also believe they sell matte as well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CVNTL6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. If you are not using a good EQ for your windows devices, get the free APO equalizer app and you can tweak the headphone sounds even more. https://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/
   
   Overall they do not sound as good as the original Rift, but much better than the built in open air headphones. Plus the convenience of having them mounted on the headset is great.

Although Robo Recall was a bit too arcadey for my tastes, it's still very fun and free, but Lone Echo... omfg, Lone Echo is amazing. Absolute must-play.

I also recommend Wilson's Heart, Obduction, and Robinson (which just got Touch support!) if you are into VR adventure games.

If you are into racing, and have all the right gear (seat + wheel + pedals), check out Dirt Rally and Project CARS 2, as well. They are incredible. I've noticed that people don't tend to have nausea problems with racing games when they are using a seat and wheel.

If you are ready to step things up, Elite: Dangerous is the one VR experience that keeps me coming back more than any other (Dirt Rally comes in second). You can easily spend a lot of money on it, though. Add a HOTAS setup, Voice Commander, and a VC voice pack, and you've added $300 to your purchase price... but once you do, it's no longer a game... you are genuinely living in space. I don't even really think of it as a game anymore. It's a second life. It's real.

Oh and as others have mentioned... don't leave your Rift near a window. Those damn fresnel lenses can damage your screen like a magnifying glass focusing on an ant... and Oculus will NOT repair it, not even for a fee.

Also, I strongly recommend mounting your cameras to a wall or ceiling. These are the mounts I use and recommend: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/

I've found just about any USB3 extender cable works, but apparently, some people's motherboards don't output enough power for longer cables. If you run into that problem, use a USB3 or USB-C (if your mobo has one) based, independently powered hub. I've found you can get away with 2 cameras running over a single powered hub connected to a USB3 port, or 4 cameras connected to a hub connected to a USB-C port.

Here's the USB3 hub I recommend to everyone with power issues: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/

Edit: Oh, and if you already have Alien: Isolation, there's now a mod that restores the game's original VR support for CV. Keep in mind, it still has plenty of rough edges and is gamepad only, but playing through that in VR is one my most cherished gaming memories.

Found these and ordered them. They're a bit more expensive, but higher quality and more permanent. My cell phone cutout protector is just the cling type. They work, but will wear out eventually and fall off. These should last much longer, and will be tougher.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUJ39LM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm gonna replace my Cell Phone cutout ones when I get them in. Uses a spray adhesive and is made for slightly curved surfaces.


These are more permanent and better quality. Supposedly about as clear as a protector can get as well.

I'll report back the results as well, but they won't get here until Wednesday and I probably won't put them in immediately. They'll need to dry so I'll probably install them before I go to bed after they are delivered.

Edit: Got the 42mm covers. That sounds like they are too large because the diameter of the lenses is 41mm, but the lenses are curved so it should actually leave a very small amount of space around the outer edge. I recommend getting at least 40mm covers based on what I've read in other threads from people who have also done this. 42mm is the perfect size according to others, but I can't yet confirm that as I've not gotten mine and put them on yet.

That said, the 39mm lenses will do the job and the spacing should still be outside of view unless you're looking right at the edges. Can't confirm this, but 40mm covers are supposed to work very well and a difference of one mm shouldn't really matter much.

I did a group test on USB3 extenders here is what I found out :

I tested using an Asus z170 Deluxe motherboard it has both Intel and AsMedia USB3 ports. I also used the Oculus recommended Inatek 7 port USB 3 Card.

——Worked——

Cables in this category mean the sensor detected as USB3 in Oculus devices and didn’t lose connection and provided solid tracking testing with the headset on, no matter what brand of USB3 port it was connected to (Intel, AsMedia,Inatek).

MutecPower 5m active USB3 extension cable £22

(picture seems to be wrong on amazon website, also note this cable seems to be sold as various brands but I'm pretty sure its all the same cable, it should look like this

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01BLPSU2W/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CableCreation 5m active USB3 extension cable £12

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Basics 1m Passive USB3 extension cable £4

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH13UFQ/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

——Sort of Worked——

Cable Matters 3m Passive USB3 extension cable £7

Detected as USB3 when using the InatekCard (which has extra power from a SATA power connector)

Detected as USB2 when using motherboard Intel or AsMedia USB3 ports

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MPMFKSI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cable Matters 5m Active USB3 extension cable £11

Only worked as USB 3 in one of the AsMedia ports and only when everything else was disconnected. Was USB2 or has an error in other AsMedia or Intel ports. Detected as USB3 in the Inatek Card and seemed ok testing in Oculus home loading area.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MPMFKSI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


——Didn’t work——

Belfen Superspeed 5m active USB3 extension cable £7

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0179EPUEK/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

detected as USB2 on every USB3 port including Inatek card

There are different accessories I have bought and has made my experience better.

Cable management: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P7GJNP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Audio upgrade:

- Cheap (For just exploring around and watching videos) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006B486K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Expensive (Mainly for playing games and having a mic instead of the built in mic since it's buggy on the headset) - https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Flight-Detachable-Comfortable/dp/B077ZGRY9V/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3D960PSK6KV35&keywords=hyperx+cloud+flight&qid=1564661727&s=electronics&sprefix=hyperx+cloud+%2Celectronics%2C151&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRkdWSElOUU5JREhTJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDYwNzUxMVZSTjVPU1pFS0Y1USZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTEwOTk2MVgyMkUwMjdWRlo1MyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

​

Controller grips:

These arrive today so I can't say if they are good or bad yet but I've only heard good - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VCF9P73/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

I've had these for awhile and they work great (if you have larger hands, these are perfect) - https://www.mamutvr.com/collections/upcoming/products/mamut-touch-grip

​

Headset power:

I've heard people have had tracking issues due to insufficient power from their usb ports, my RTX 2080 has a dedicated USB-Type C that I use to power my headset and haven't had any tracking issues - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGKYXVE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Rechargeable batteries for the controllers:

I've heard other people recommend different batteries but these have worked well for me - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IM3P8GS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Good old Amazon Basic's 4 port powered USB w/ an Apple USB-C to USB adapter.

https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484871884&sr=8-2&keywords=amazon+basic+4+port+usb+hub

One I had from before using a Surface Pro Hackintosh, works great for the Oculus with 3 sensors. All the USB goes into that Rift, and 3 sensors. Long as I keep the 3rd sensor on USB2.0 using the monoprice cable I get no tracking issues related to sensor hookups.

Yeah I love the setup, I had a 2015 Macbook Pro which ran great for work / OSX needs. It made sense to dump the gaming laptop Razer and consolidate the Macbook and Razer into the new one. eGPU made that possible, TB3 rocks speed wise the hit isn't terrible long as you use an external monitor. Works great here.

I'm using a new Alienware 15 r3 (i7 6820K, GTX 1070) If you watch your deals you can get one for around $2.2K or less (got mine for $2K after tax.) They have some component issues they are working through at the moment but for the most part it runs like a dream. My AW15 replaced an enormous watercooled i7 4790K, GTX 980 ti Classified rig. Steam VR benchmarks on the two machines are within a few decimal points of each other at 10.8 & 11 respectively (Classified out ahead.) I have an Oculus and a Vive (and a PSVR & Gear VR) both run without a hitch, supersampling up to around 1.3 to 1.5 across the board (still need to do some fine tuning.) I run both HMDs through the Vive Linkbox plugged into the Thunderbolt 2 / DVI on the AW15, plug a second monitor into the HDMI (though I only use the external monitor) and still have a Thunderbolt 3 and AW Amplifier Port open for further horsepower and lighting fast storage, though it probably won't be needed for at least a year from now. 3 remaining USB 3 ports (one type C) I'm using 2 Anker 7 Port USB 3 Hubs for all other connections (3 Rift Sensors, Link Box, wireless keyboard, external RAID enclosure) everything seems to be working exceptionally well. You can get larger HUBs but you will overload a single USB 3 port so it is best split them up. All and all I am very happy with the switch to the laptop and I have room to grow with the TB3 and AW Amplifier for the future.

Anker 7 Port Hub
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-10-Port-Transfer-PowerIQ-Charging/dp/B00VDVCQ84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483735971&sr=8-3&keywords=anker+usb+3+hub

Vive Link Box
https://www.vive.com/us/accessory/link-box/

I needed to extend my Rift too and didn't want to have issues so did homework just as you. After getting a recommended HDMI repeater that didn't work (not sure if it was the cable or repeater but I think the cable was bad) I looked again and discovered I could use a Vive Link Box w/this psu, which definitively works well.

It's an active HDMI/USB repeater made for VR and is also not finicky about cables or long runs or what gpu you have or what you ate for dinner last night. As a bonus, it also has a mini displayport input as well as hdmi which is what I use since I only have 1 port on my card and it's running to my projector. Very nice to have a clean breakout box to plug into in my living room as my computer is in the bedroom.

Someone lit the TSR signal, and thus I am here :P

I bought the Aura bass shakers and a Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier. My Bass shaker is rated for 50W, where the Lepai amp only comes with a 3A PSU, so I picked up a 6A PSU on the recommendation of someone in this subreddit, and it's been working fine (hasn't burned up or anything). I'm currently attaching it to a ford cobra seat, but just from the limited test use I've done so far, it works great. Definitely shakes my entire apartment when I turn it up.

The entire kit came out to about $90 after shipping, which I figured was a great price. I've seen someone recommend getting 4 amps and 4 transducers and mounting them on the corners of my seat, then running SimVibe to simulate each wheel independently, but I haven't tried that personally. Nor have I tried the actual brandname buttkicker, so I can't say how this solution compares. But I will say it adds a huge amount of immersion to Assetto Corsa.

EDIT: Oops, forgot the parts list:


AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer by Aura Sound - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPTBI/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_VjzVtb1MV70BA

Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output by Lepai - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=asc_df_B0070Z87YO3169620?smid=A385A0XNQBW8HY&tag=pgmp-401-100-20&linkCode=df0&creative=395109&creativeASIN=B0070Z87YO

12v 6a Adapter Power Supply for LCD Monitor with Power Cord by LCD AC Power Adapter - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_tlzVtb1TKD73K?tag=viglink20241-20

Sennheiser HD25. $150 but best audio you will ever hear in VR and fits Rift S perfectly since it has small earcups and flexible band. Sounds utterly amazing. Wire from only 1 side too with L shaped plug: Sennheiser HD 25 Professional DJ Headphone, Black, 1 (HD25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CRI3UOU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DBYvDbQSM2V3H

I have 4 sensors, each mounted on top of 7'6" DIY stands made out of cheap 5'9" Ikea floor lamps..2 lamps per stand, each in it's own corner. The 8' long stock cables of the sensors only have a few inches worth left over when mounted on the stands, so extensions are a must no matter where you position them. I use the 'Monoprice 15-Feet USB 3.0 Extension Cables' from Amazon, with the sensor in the far corner needing 2 cables to reach the stand. This gives me a 10'x10' area, with an actual playspace of 7'x7'. I also shelled out for a Startech 4 port USB3.0 PCI card recommended on the Oculus blog. The sensors on USB3.0 use a lot of power, so you'll need to connect either a SATA power adapter or a molex power adapter to the PCI card...if you go that route. I haven't had any issues whatsoever, completely glitch free. I used the Sensor Bounds app in Oculus to make sure the sensor beams covered my play area high enough, as well as covering the corners closest to the stands. The beams aren't 90 degrees, so the higher the top of the beam, the less the corner gets covered by the lower part of the beam. It takes a few minutes, but it helps to completely cover the entire play area.

​

Btw...the best part of my DIY stands...they only take up 10" squared. Tripods are at least 2' squared. I considered microphone stands, but they only extend 5' or so. Nowhere near tall enough.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-15-Feet-Female-Active-Extension/dp/B00AA0U08M

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-SuperSpeed-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60416176/

https://www.amazon.com/CM01-Camera-Digital-Recorder-Adapter/dp/B001GWCC4I

I can't say anything about the device you bought, but Anker's 10 Port 60W Data Hub works great for me (I'm using it on a laptop).
Pretty sure yours will be good enough but if you have a lot of peripherals to connect to it (besides the Rift stuff), it might not work completely, so try to connect only the bare minimum and then add stuff in to see if it stops working correctly.

When it comes to USB extensions and where to plug in the equipment (USB 2.0 vs 3.0, etc), I found the Help section on the Oculus website to be insufficient. They don't take into consideration if you have a PCI-E USB 3.0 controller (Which I had to purchase) in addition to the on board USB 3.0 ports.

I have 4 sensors, all of which are connected to USB extension cables. I found the Oculus setup wizard to be most useful. If you have green check marks for everything, then you're good! If you don't, try plugging stuff into different ports until you get all green check marks. At one point I had to even unplug some other USB devices, plug in my sensors (so they would turn green), then I could plug in my other USB devices. I now have all 4 sensors setup working flawlessly.

For extension cables, I had no issues. Three of my sensors have 10' extenders and I also have a USB extension cable on the headset as well as an HDMI extender. I spent a decent amount of time getting my "Rift Room" setup and I am so happy that I spent the time to set it up right. Makes for such a solid experience and I have a large play area that I can freely move around in.

For reference here is the HDMI/USB cables I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (HDMI Extender)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (USB 3.0 Extender)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MT1EQM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (USB 2.0 Extender)
(Also, my 2 additional sensors came with 1 10' USB extension cable each...purchased from Newegg)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (USB 3.0 Controller)

You can use a Buttkicker for $170 or this for $87 (you want the items listed in the "frequently bought together" section). The one person that I know of who tried the Subpac wasn't impressed.

A "transducer" is what all of these devices are, technically.

Buttkicker is a trademark name.

Bass shaker is an "unofficial" name for the same things, I believe. The reason that I'm not all that sure on this one is that I've discovered (not tested yet) that a practice is to hook up a large subwoofer to shake your floor and give more immersion to explosions and the like. Would be great even with a buttkicker!

In order to get these devices to work, you need to be able to split your audio. The simplest (to me) way to do this is to use a product called VoiceMeeter Bannana. Read/watch the tutorials to learn how to use it.

Good luck! And yes! It's worth it!

This is what I use, and it works perfectly amazing:

Velcro Command Strips (3 lb holding limit):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LW1APOC/

Super lightweight plastic mounts:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DWA0QLS/

Put a strip on the wall and a strip on the mount, screw the camera head into the mount, and stick it to the wall. Holds perfectly fine. I've never had it fall off or had any problem.

Sure thing fam!

USB 2.0 16 ft - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LFL4X0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB 3.0 15 ft - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AA0U08M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI cable 10ft - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CRA11IU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI Repeater - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M02Z4FU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The good news is with a repeater you can just use a regular HDMI cable and not an extension with male/female connectors. I only bought an extra cable because all the ones I had lying around were only 6ft or so and I wanted longer.

I had some crackling in the audio the first time I connected the headset with extensions but hasn't been any since then (not sure if I had/have it on 2.0 or 3.0 for the headset which would be the culprit since HDMI is only for the video portion and USB carries audio).

Like I said - all of these are working on my current setup. Motherboard is an MSI Z97-G45 Gaming with my 4790k and running a 1080 ti GPU. Monitors are on display port so am fortunately able to run this directly from the GPU's open HDMI slot.

I also use an Acer Predator Helios 300 laptop and the extensions all work with it as well so hopefully you have good results!

having tried many with issues, Ugreen's have been the best. Really recommend them. If want all USB 3.0 then make sure to get an active cable past 5m's.

I recently added the 10m active variant and I was happy to see it have 0 issues, no sensor warnings or dropping to usb 2 at all:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01FQ88CHS

I couldn't find an affordable buttkicker brand package but I did find a great amp and transducer on amazon for 2/3 the price of the Gamer 2 (cheapest buttkicker) at just about $100. It works fantastically! I'll post links to the products if you care to see them.

Edit:

AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer by Aura Sound

Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output by Lepai

12v 6a Adapter Power Supply for LCD Monitor with Power Cord by LCD AC Power Adapter

This one.

If you want to share please do so. You could also list what you discovered that needs improvement in your design so I can have a shot at making it better. Hey... I can eventually come up with a detailed diy instructions to the ultimate cheapo-ikea-station.

How's the vibrations work on that chair? Is it good?

I have provided the links to the products I use.

​

If you think you're going to be sweating quite a bit (perhaps because of beat saber) I recommend a different facepad by VR Cover.

https://www.amazon.com/Oculus-Facial-Interface-Replacement-Hygiene/dp/B01MQZVF6K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541091609&sr=8-2&keywords=oculus+face+pad

​

Like TOO_FUTURE said before me, definitely set up a ceiling rig so you dont have to worry about cables running around the floor.

https://www.amazon.com/MIDWEC-Packs-Management-Oculus-Headset/dp/B06XY5WKXW/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1541091631&sr=8-10&keywords=oculus+accessories

​

Lastly, you might want to think about investing in a 3rd Oculus sensor. Having that 360 degree coverage and not having to worry about facing forward all the time will make your VR experience that much better.

https://www.amazon.com/Oculus-Sensor-16ft-Repeater-Cable-pc/dp/B0727WDPX6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541091677&sr=8-3&keywords=oculus+sensor

1. Go to Home Depot and buy 2 x 2-inch spring clamps, 2 x 1/4"-20x1/2" screws, and 2 x 1/4"-20 nuts. Your total cost for all of this should be under $5.
   
2. Order 2 x Giottos MH1304 mini ball head. These are around $20 each.
   
3. Unscrew the Oculus sensors from the stand base. The separation point is roughly 1 inch below the sensor.
   
4. Screw each 1/2"-20 nut onto each screw. The nuts act as spacers.
   
5. Pass the remaining bit of the screw through the little hole on the clamp, near the clamp tips.
   
6. Screw the mini ball head onto the screw. Make sure the ball head is tightened down so it doesn't just spin forever.
   
7. Screw the Oculus sensor onto the mini ball head.
   
   You now have an awesome clamp mount that will allow you to mount your sensors to any shelf or desk surface that's less than 2" thick, super-fast and easy. Side note: this clamp mount works for anything else that accepts a 1/4" screw as well, including small cameras, flashes (with the appropriate hot shoe), webcams, microphones (1/2" to 5/8" adapter may be necessary), etc.
   
   In terms of where to mount, Oculus prefers that the first two sensors you set up are within 6 feet of each other, on one side of the room. However, you do not need to do this. I often just mount mine on opposite corners of the room (the same way an HTC Vive is set up) for better roomscale experiences. Note that you'll need a USB 3.0 extension cable to do this. I've had good luck with this 5m one for $15. The Oculus software will complain that they're too far apart but you can still hit the Next button and everything will be fine. I recommend mounting them 2-3 feet above head level, pointing down at roughly a 30-45 degree angle so that they cover the entire area. Make sure the play area you intend to use is visible to the sensors even while kneeling/lying on the floor. If they're not, move/re-aim them.
   
   All of that said, if you can drop an extra $60 for a third sensor, I'd recommend ordering this one which is bundled with a 5m USB 2.0 cable. Note that USB 2.0 is fine for the 3rd sensor but not for the first 2 because tracking gets impacted, if it even lets you get past room setup. If you do end up getting a third sensor, mount it somewhere in the room opposite the other two so that you have a sort of triangle. This should give you best-case scenario roomscale tracking. Note that you'll need to get a third clamp, screw, nut, and mini ball head for your third sensor unless you just want to set it on one of your shelves.
   
   As a side note, there are many mini ball heads on Amazon that are cheaper (by up to half) than the ones I linked. I'm a photographer so I had these lying around. However, I've used cheaper ones and they suck. If you can afford them, get the Giottos.

Either a PCI usb 3 card, or a vive link box would remedy this.

​

If you go the link box route, it comes w/o the AC adapter and HDMI cable, you'll need to pick both of those up as well, amazon has all three, it's like a 50.00 purchase all said.

​

This also gives the added benefits of

- extendable headset range.

- you can use DP (mini on the box) instead of HDMI if you so desire.

- if you have a laptop with a decent enough card, you can now use your rift on the go.

- USB port powered from the wall, no more load on the PC.

- it comes with a really good adhesive pad, so you can remotely locate your headset ports to say, under the front corner edge of your desk, or the side of your case, or any flat surface you think it'd be cool to have a relocated USB and HDMI port.

- the above pro also means you no longer have to leave the HMD plugged in at all times, you can just pop it out when not in use, and never have to dive behind a case again.

​

The ac adapter you will need is this one.

The USB cable can be anything as long as it is "A to A male to male". I picked one of these up. (two 6 foot cables, one for my LAN party bag, one for home.)

​

Any HDMI cable will work.

​

I've invested some €30 in this VR cable solution: link amazon . It works pretty well, though you can still get tangled up in the cable when you tend to turn too much in one direction compared to the other (apparently, I much prefer to turning to the left for some reason). It does get the cable successfully out of your feet however. All in all it's worth the price I'd say. As I live in Europe, I bought it on amazon.de .

I would think so, I know /u/Cybereality (Oculus staff) listed various successful cable extenders [here] (https://forums.oculus.com/community/discussion/30513/yes-extension-cables-do-work-w-cv1/p1) I personally got active extenders [here] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MPMFKSI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) or in the USA I think people were having success with [this one] (http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00DMFB5OK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462293641&sr=8-1&keywords=active+extender+usb+3.0)

I bought a usb3 to Usbc adapter to pass through the usbc on the 2070 super. Issues stopped.


Only sharing in case someone finds this thread with the same issues. Two people with two simple resolutions.

What I bought for $6 on Amazon. Only useful if your graphics card has a usb c. It provides consistent power so the adapter works “like a charm” as well.

I'm using these to ceiling mount my sensors and they work great, though they stick on there pretty good and might take the paint off if you have to remove them.

OK, so I am not running my cables through the attic and a 3m extension is enough for me (https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00WHZ8NDW) costs me 8 bucks. But even such cables as you require for your setup seem to be a lot cheaper where I am (https://www.reichelt.de/USB-Kabel/DELOCK-83415/3/index.html?ACTION=3&GROUPID=6104&ARTICLE=138544), 10m active USB3.
For my own use, I am deducting the free games, because all of those were titles I was planning on buying before I knew they were giving them away. Of course, if you are not interested in those games it is not nearly as valuable.

What about this ? : https://www.amazon.ca/Extension-Repeater-Extender-Booster-Superspeed/dp/B01FQ88CHS/ref=sr_1_2/156-9225501-4320419?ie=UTF8&qid=1481322879&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+3+active+extension

Having done something similar myself, I would say DONT skimp on proper cabling solutions, when it comes to installing this stuff test your exact setup before you put anything into a wall or ceiling. I had troubles daisychaining 2x active 15’ extenders. Better was to order the ugreen 30’ active cable (Amazon link: UGREEN USB 3.0 Active... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FQ88CHS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf)

I went from constant headaches (frequent senso disconnects) to zero problems with that cable. Good luck!

I heard the subpac was good too, as was the buttkicker. But the subpac is expensive and the buttkicker was sold out lol so I bought the budget tactile feedback rig (Recommended by another /r/oculus member.) which included these three things. It also took a few wires and some tweaking but after mounting it to a chair, I love it

I bought mine for the 2nd sensor i got with the Touch controllers,the cable is from CSL and is 5 meter long or also 16 feet like the one you mentioned.
It's a usb 3.0 active repeater cable and is working like a charm.
Got it from here

https://www.amazon.ca/Adhesive-Mobius-Action-Camera-Standard/dp/B00DWA0QLS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511406835&sr=8-1&keywords=camera+mount+adhesive

something like that would work perfectly fine. Just unscrew the sensor from the pole and then thread it into the wall mount instead. any standard 1/4" mount will work fine.

Thank you for bringing this up: this is exactly what I want to know, as I have found no actual reports in either of the official threads (here is the latest one as of now). Somebody reported terrible performance on a Macbook with Bootcamp and external GPU (AMD Radeon RX580 in a Black Magic box).

I will test this soon on an RTX 2070 Gigabyte Aorus Gaming Box connected to my Yoga 720-15 via a 2-lane Thunderbolt 3 port, which means there is as much bottlenecking as possible.

My cheap cable will be delivered today. If it works, I will try both the USB 3 port on my laptop, and my USB-C Virtual Link port on the eGPU itself. I will also try the officially endorsed Anker cable if this one does not work. I will post my tests here with the VR Mark if the setup works at all.

​

*UPDATE*

So I've tested Link with an eGPU (external graphics card / dock). It eventually worked for me. Here are the specs:

• Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 Aorus Gaming Box connected to a Lenovo Yoga 720-15 laptop via a 2-lane Thunderbolt 3 port with Windows 10. eGPU firmware is the latest one as of Nov 2019 with the TB bandwidth and fan spin fix.
  
• Oculus Quest was connected to the PC via AmazonBasics Double Braided Nylon USB Type-C to Type-A 3.1 Gen 1 Charger Cable | 10 feet. It worked. Will test the recommended Anker cable today as well. My guess is that it will work too.
  
• The following adapter was used to test the Virtual Link port on the GPU: AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Gen1 Female Adapter Cable - Black. It also worked.
  
  Here are my observations:
  
  

1. Both the onboard USB 3.1 Gen 1 port (left side) and the Virtual Link port on the external GPU (the one that's a USB-C port found on most RTX GPU's) worked fine, and showed very similar performance.
   
2. Oculus software should not run the beta version, and Oculus Quest should not have Developer mode on.
   
3. Performance is OK, but is obviously considerably lower (at least by 20 to 40%) than had the Quest been connected to a conventional desktop PC with the same specs. Without the headset on the same eGPU setup, VR Mark Orange Room scores about 6000 points. With the headset on and running the test in Oculus virtual desktop (not natively on the HMD displays, though) shows the lowest of 4700 points. Onboard GTX 1050 2GB without the headset would show about 2500 points. My Yoga 15 is downvolted a bit with TB kept on.
   
4. Image definitely looks more blurry than I'd want, but I will keep fiddling with Oculus/SteamVR settings. I have also noticed timewarp artifacts on some objects over the edges when turning my head very fast, but those are sometimes there, and sometimes are not. Not sure what's the main cause yet.
   
5. You probably do not want to have anything connected to the same USB 3 hub or controller as the one that you have you Quest connected to when you initially connect it to the PC. When I had peripherals connected to the same Corsair ST100 Headphones Stand, Quest would had kept showing a red "x" until I would disconnect the other devices first. When I reconnected those while using the headset, everything was working fine, though; that is until I re-connected the Quest again. Other stuff had to be disconnected first from that hub again then.
   
6. Performance was 5-10% lower than when running VR Mark Orange Room via the Oculus Virtual desktop than when just running it on an internal display.
   
7. Performance seems to be the same when running Link with either an external monitor connected to the eGPU or with an internal monitor of the laptop itself.
   
8. The following cable DID NOT WORK: TOPWE USB Type C Cable USB C Cable (2 Pack 10FT) Type C Charger USB 3.0 Date Sync 3A Fast Charging Cable. DO NOT BUY THIS CABLE to use with the Quest, unless otherwise confirmed for your setup.
   
   Conclusion:
   
   I knew what I was getting into, but using a Rift S with such setup instead of the Quest/Link is preferred due to TB3 limitations when feeding the signal back to the PC. Ideally, you would not use Oculus Quest or even a Rift S with an eGPU setup, but this is the setup I have, so here we are: it is confirmed to be working on a Windows machine and an RTX 2070 eGPU, as long as you have proper USB 3 ports. This depends on your laptop, though, hence Virtual Link port can save the day for some people.

I've noticed that I can only use my wireless adapter in certain USB ports otherwise it'll constantly disconnect. I think it has to do with a power issue as it solved itself as soon as I got a powered USB hub.

And before anyone assumes I was using an unpowered USB hub I was using one of my mobo's USB 3.0 ports. I even tried my monitors USB port and it still would constantly disconnect. Now that I'm running a powered USB hub through my monitor's USB port everything works great.

I'm using this in case anyone was wondering. http://amzn.com/B00VDVCQ84

I think it is more about power than the cabling...

Inatek USB card as noted below, which is available on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00PAFDW3M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or a Powered hub might work for you, it helped me though I already had it, but the PCI card is probably better:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or a shorter Amazon basics cable length perhaps? 6feet instead of 9?

Here ya go

It's just a 15' Monoprice active extension, as clearly shown in the video around 1:40. A Monoprice (non active) 2.0 cable is what came included in the box for me when I bought my 3'rd sensor. I recently replaced my Monoprice active extension because it was giving me issues... :/

For anything over 6 feet hdmi, I needed a repeater. This is the one I use, and what the Op recommends.

SHENFAN 4K2K HDMI Antenna Splitter Repeater Signal Amplifier Booster Adapter Extender UP TO 40 Meters Transmission Distance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M02Z4FU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_We2GAbG28VK5W

Currently unavailable from that link but it seems lots of people have successfully extended hdmi with this.

Edit: actually OP recommends:

COWEEN HDMI Repeater 4K UHD HDMI Female to Female HDMI Amplifier 40' HDMI Extender Up to 40 Meters Lossless Transmission for Oculus Rift and More

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_jr2GAbK1VMMCW

This is why I was thinking it would have been nice if we created a list from the start where we compile what hardware works and what doesn't, both for USB cables, and HDMI, and motherboards too.

But in any case, if it's useful, these work for me:

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Extension-Cable-10-FT/dp/B00GBBSZFE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

I have to extend mine over 1.8m in two places (seated and roomscale 1080ti setups). The USB extension will help you, not tried that far with DisplayPort

​

DisplayPort 1.8m

​

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01KRLQG2M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works on both my setups

​

USB 3.0

​

1.8m Extension

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07JNXPJ9P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oddly, only works on one of my PCs. The other gives camera issues and blackouts

​

4-port Hub

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07B2HJG8P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is junk, the ports aren't even powered. Shows as USB 2.0

​

Active Extension - 10m

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01FQ88CHS/ref=twister_B01MRP2CPT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I had this laying around from the CV1 and it does work. I have the 5m one coming today as this is a bit overkill

You might need an HDMI repeater like this.
This would help if your video card can't provide enough juice to the HDMI port.
BTW I have no idea how and why these things work, they don't have any external power inputs afaik, so they are basically magic as far as I can tell, but people have been reporting success with repeaters, so they seem to work.

Nice, I just bought this HDMI extender and it DOESN'T work. Just an FYI for anyone interested. http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Extension-Cable-10-FT/dp/B00GBBSZFE?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Yes, I'm planning on returning it now. Although I was thinking to get the cable that the wiki recommends, which is this one It seems to be slightly cheaper compared to your link and has a number of reviews to back it up a little. Thanks for the suggestion though!

Yeah a lot of people including me have used the watch protectors like this one. It's funny, all the related items are VR stuff.

I only know of Amazon and Best Buy (online). Here’s a link from Amazon:

Oculus Sensor

I've been having success with:

• 10-ft HDMI extension (Monoprice Active Select RedMere): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D5ETHE/
  
• HDMI repeater (Shenfan 4K2K Repeater): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M02Z4FU
  
• 10-ft USB3 extension (Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U

http://www.amazon.com/Aura-AST-2B-4-Pro-Bass-Shaker/dp/B0002ZPTBI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1395709929&sr=1-1&keywords=aura+bass+shaker with http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SA100-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B0002KRAP6/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1395709959&sr=1-6&keywords=aura+bass+shaker If I was you I would wait....the Buttkicker makes it so easy to clamp down without having to bolt anything to the chair...

I use it with every game....It's AWESOME!

This setup is amazingly cheap ($80 to $90) and powerful...

http://amzn.com/B0002ZPTBI

http://amzn.com/B0070Z87YO

http://amzn.com/B003TUMDWG

All it takes is one to make a huge difference. Great with headphones on.

For it to help with power issues, it has to be powered separately by a plug. The success stories I linked in my comments used these:

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014ZQ07NE
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerIQ-Charging-Macbook-Surface/dp/B00VDVCQ84
  
• https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-4-port-usb-3-0-hub-black/5631038.p?skuId=5631038

The key is this hdmi extender. Any decent usb extension should work, and any high quality hdmi cable + the extender. Im using the slim active monoprice 10ft hdmi cable and 10ft amazon usb 3.0 with the 970 with zero issues.

also there's a faq on this sub with good infos

These are super low profile: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And I use these rather than tape to hide my cables to keep the wife happy:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Wiremold-1-Piece-0-75-in-x-60-in-Cord-Cable-Organization-Kit-Ivory-Cord-Cover/3129629

Also this to go "wireless":

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M6EB8DM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this one from Amazon for my RTX 2070 and it works great - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0732N2SGH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .

Is this for VR? I use a suspended cable management system like this one:

www.amazon.com/Retractable-Management-Headset-MDW-Adhesive/dp/B01M6EB8DM/

Coupled with one of these belt clips:

https://www.bindvr.com

This solution has eliminated all my cable hassles entirely. The overhead system keeps the cable off the floor and the belt clip keeps the cable from pulling on your head when/if it gets bound. Works great!

However, it will be VERY obvious to you when you need the third sensor.You'll find yourself frequently facing the direction without sensors and visual glitches everywhere, trying to turn around and deal with whatever in game objective you were dealing with previously.

If your not experiencing this then wait :)

As a List (That you didn't ask for) for what I bought for Roomscale:4 port /w controller USB 3.0 card (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPUHO10)Additional Sensor (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727WDPX6) - Note this includes an 2.0 USB extension cable, 2.0 can stretch farther without signal loss.

**Extra Equipment**10 Ft HDMI extension (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE) - For the Oculus Headset16 Ft USB Active extension (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8) - For the Oculus headset

Hangers for the Oculus cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY5WKXW) - this just gets the cables from under your feet, it is my favorite

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M6EB8DM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This works too.

Been using it for both my rift and vive without issues.

Truly the best way to play.

Jun 14 11:00 AM -
Maryland, USA -
Status: Ready

=D

In case anyone was interested in screen protectors -

I figured I had enough time to order a set of 40mm circular military grade ones @ http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUJ39LM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As discussed over @ http://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/2f0cig/circular_40mm_screen_protectors_for_lenses/

Yeah the headset does tilt a bit, enough to press into your face. If you take it off and just hold it in your hands you can see the side arms can rotate up and down, maybe like 10 degrees or so, which in turn changes the angle of the display part. On me this shift is enough to almost close the nose gap.

I use 2x 5m active USB 3.0 extenders that look like the Monoprice / CableCreations ones (a lot of people gave them good reviews on here), but they're generic branded so cheaper and would be the same components, as a few companies just rebrand them:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AA0U08M

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8

I bought 2 of these recommened in Heaneys Roomscale Guide.

You've got me worried now! I already have the 10m version of this cable and found that the cameras weren't detected connected to this extension when it was plugged into either of my intel USB3.0 ports. Luckily it worked connected to my Asmedia USB3.1 port. I hope these 5m versions work plugged into the Startech card!!

I went for these (I'm in the UK), they do various sizes but these are 43mm:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Healingshield-Watch-Protector-Guard-1-69in/dp/B00SJ22DBK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1550659800&sr=8-4&keywords=healing+shield

They don't cover the whole lens but most of it. They are also fiddly to apply. But well worth it. I scratched my lenses previously, and now I don't worry about them anymore.

I have ordered this active USB 3.0 extension, picking it up today.

According to this guy it works fine, and so do most of the USB 3.0 cables regardless of active/not active.

thanks for your reply! Mine are about 10 feet away from each other, at two different heights (one's base is about 2.5 feet off the ground, the other about 5 feet). I'll test it out a bit more when I get home from work. the extension does seem like the most likely source of problems. it's a 5m active cable, this one here.

I use the Healing Shield curved fit 43mm lens film on my Rift S/GO lenses: https://www.amazon.com/Healingshield-Watch-Protector-Guard-1-65in/dp/B00SJ22DBK

I'm sure Amazon UK has the same or something similar

Well, shit. Now I'm just looking at this mop holders and scratching my head, haha.

These are they from my Amazon, I think? https://www.amazon.ca/Mobius-Action-Camera-Mount-Adhesive/dp/B00DWA0QLS/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495071288&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Spy+Tec+Adhesive+Mount+For+Mobius+Action+Camera+and+Standard+1%2F4%22-20+Tripod+Thread+Cameras

Edit: Whatever, 10 bucks, just bought em lol.

I wear glasses similar to you, and bought these watch protectors to put on the lenses. I personally can't tell they're there at all when I'm wearing my Rift. The 43s are a little too small though the 45 or 46 options would likely be the best bet.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SJ22DBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bKL6AbVBB9NBJ

So, these:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/CSL-repeater-extension-amplification-amplifier/dp/B00MPMFKSI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499795238&sr=8-1&keywords=active%2Busb%2B3.0%2Bextension&th=1

with the original 2.5 would be ok then?

Edit: According to reviews on the cable, this is perfect.

2 Ordered!

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

this

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

I am using this HDMI
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GBBSZFE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HIEtzb056BQ0Y

And this usb and it works great https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DJEtzbMCAYRC0

I use this and it works great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Those extensions are perfect on my setup, looking at my order I actually got the 10 feet cables.

These get near-universal praise on here, I actually got one on a whim today and set it up an hour ago.
https://www.amazon.com/Retractable-Management-Headset-MDW-Adhesive/dp/B01M6EB8DM/

You'll want the 6ft HDMI and USB extension cables too, check the wiki for confirmed working ones.

yikes. Thanks

What do you think about this hub ? https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1YV07NODL0INA&keywords=usb+3+0+powered+hub&qid=1575136545&sprefix=usb+3.0+power%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-3

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edit : I realized this one is 2.5A.

3A is necessary ?

​

edit 2 :

https://www.amazon.ca/Powered-Splitter-Extension-Charging-Independent/dp/B07X91YGG1/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+3+0+powered+hub+3a&qid=1575136750&sr=8-3

I see everyone's talking about getting new cards with USB ports... would a powered 10-port hub work?

This is the one I use and it has been an absolute lifesaver so far:
http://www.amazon.com/Anker-10-Port-Transfer-PowerIQ-Charging/dp/B00VDVCQ84/ref=sr_1_3

I wholeheartedly recommend [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DWA0QLS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_v5NizbK16GP9N](these SpyTek mounts). They're cheap and very effective.

As for your sensors, I opted for 1-2x passive USB 3.0 extensions across two controllers and it worked fine, but YMMV.

Pretty sure the reason they don't do a guaranteed to work cable is because the one that came with it was the longest to work without needing a repeater in some cases. Snag an HDMI repeater, short HDMI 4k extension male to male cable as a jumper from vid card to repeater and a 3 meter HDMI 4k male to female extension cable. I used the VR extension cable that Bestbuy carried for a couple days. Running this for a month with no issues.

Repeater I used
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M02Z4FU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Short jumper
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SVE6YF2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got my headset used for $299 in like new condition. was used once for a demo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073X8N1YW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

3rd Sensor plugged into an USB 2.0 port on computer
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727WDPX6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rechargeable AA batteries and charger
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JHKSL1O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Expansion card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Headset and touch wall mount
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0781G75B5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wall Mount used for rear left sensor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XR8DL7T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cable management system
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P7GJNP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mount clip used for front left sensor on shelf
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MG4D3O5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI extension for headset, only one used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ519KC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2 pack 6 feet USB 3.0 extension cables, one used for front right sensor and one used for headset
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sensor ceiling mount used for front right sensor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IDCDZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3 foot usb 3.0 extension used for front left senor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S1B4W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cleaning Cloths
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NR9S3EQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oculus Rift Facial Interface & Foam Replacement Basic Set
https://vrcover.com/product/oculus-rift-facial-interface-foam-replacement-basic-set/

Photo of final setup
https://ibb.co/exkWXx

I have had no issues at all, this setup working very well for me.

This one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Like the extension cables, usb hub is also hit and miss. But this one will support two devices plus minor peripheral.

I have this exact model of laptop (MSI GT73VR Titan Pro-202) and it's perfect for roomscale with 3 sensors. I've used mine in a 10 ft x 10 ft space before without issue. It's okay if you plug the USB 2.0 extension that comes with the 3rd sensor into one of the 3.0 ports, it'll still be recognized. I had to get 2 additional 3.0 extension cables for my front 2 sensors due to how my play area is organized and they also run fine (despite one consistently saying it has "poor tracking quality").

running a 2080 with display port extension 10 ft version
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B06Y46KJ3X?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title


and the amazon basics usbc to usb 3.1 plugged into the VR link port on the 2080 (usbc)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01GGKYXVE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


with this brand plugged into the amazon basics
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the one I bought, works perfect with my Link Box. Not sure if you can get it in Canada. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018JL0YIY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

To protect the lenses on the rift itself, I used a flexible watch cover like this:
https://www.amazon.com/KlearKare-Invisible-Protector-Military-Protection/dp/B00BUJ39LM
(I spent $18 for a different pair that I thought were glass. They were flexible plastic, but they still fit w/o distortion.)

For my eyeglasses, I printed out these lens holders, and bought a $10 pair of Harry Potter glasses from Zenni optical. (Details in link.)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1602460
(P.S. There's a remix of the object that has removable lens holders.)

The lens holders completely remove any cumbersome problems that arise from wearing glasses and the rift headset at the same time.

Yeah, I have extensions to mine with the extensions wrapped in this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQR8XEW

With the extra slack it's not as bad. Others have opted to suspend the cords on the ceiling using retracable cables like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M6EB8DM

I took the same path as you. This repeater from Amazon has been working for me. I needed to get this adapter to work with the HDMI extension cable. Occasionally I need to unplug and plug back in the cables to get them working well, but for the most part they have worked flawlessly.

I use this: https://www.amazon.com/MDW-Retractable-Management-Headset-Adhesive/dp/B01M6EB8DM it works great. I can't even think about going back to playing with a cable hanging getting all tangled in my legs.

/figdudeton noted that it will put stress on the cable. Not if you do this: https://www.reddit.com/r/EchoArena/comments/6ju9kk/cable_management_tips/?st=J59P04LR&sh=e936e8b5

Yep i bought this card after seeing online the inatek did not work

FebSmart 4 Ports USB 3.0 Super... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072LS4JH7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It works flawlessly

You can add a 3rd sensor! (and both Oculus and Steam support it)

https://www.amazon.com/Oculus-Sensor-16ft-Repeater-Cable-pc/dp/B0727WDPX6/

You can use up to 4 sensors.

This kind of tech/setup is pretty common and affordable. I don't know the buttkicker specs, but I imagine it's just overpriced due to the name and fancy-schmancy packaging:

http://www.amazon.com/AuraSound-AST-2B-4-Shaker-Tactile-Transducer/dp/B0002ZPTBI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408110674&sr=8-2&keywords=shaker+bass

http://www.amazon.com/FMOD-Crossover-Pair-Low-Pass/dp/B0006N41EM/ref=sr_1_151?ie=UTF8&qid=1408110849&sr=8-151&keywords=crossover

http://www.amazon.com/LP-2020A-Lepai-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408110904&sr=8-1&keywords=lepai+2020a%2B

BAM! Done... All you need.

Hmm, there is another option: Externally powered Amazon Basic USB 3.0 hub
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80


I'd only be effective if the root cause of your problem is power and not chip set incompatibility, but it's worth a try.

i got these and it works wonders, no liquids and works great for the rift.

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I use something like this except I have the old one that uses springs. It holds my cables up and out of the way so I can spin 360 without tripping over them or even feeling them. Also, if I leave my playspace, they start addign resitence, so I know i've gone too far. Dont need gardian

Gotta put it in the DVI port by all accounts to make it work and keep working.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZMVGTA2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sorry that some are just available in 2 packs, but it's cheap and it works. Turns out I was misremembering. It was 10 feet extension and not 6, heh. I pulled these links from my amazon order history.

Looks like it's the HDMI extension that's dropping the signal since the problem has gone away since I connected directly to the GPU. These are the current extensions I'm using. What would you recommend I use instead or purchase additionally?

I use an AuraSound tactile transducer mounted to the back of my chair. I haven't tried a Buttkicker, but my setup seems to work well enough for significantly less money.
http://smile.amazon.com/AuraSound-AST-2B-4-Shaker-Tactile-Transducer/dp/B0002ZPTBI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422062773&sr=8-1&keywords=aura+bass+shaker&pebp=1422062755133&peasin=B0002ZPTBI

I ended up putting my PC in the corner with the middle sensor and purchased 3 10ft USB 3.0 extensions and a 10ft HDMI extension.

If curious, here is what I got.

2x USB 3.0 extensions for 2 of the 3 sensors.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1x USB 3.0 extension for HMD

https://www.amazon.com/gp/css/order-history?ie=UTF8&ref_=nav_nav_orders_first&

1x HDMI extension for HMD (2 pack but I only used 1 of them)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used these every foot of the USB/HDMI cables for the HMD to bind them together.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have Rift S working on the USB-C port of my RTX2070 GPU without any problem. I bought the adapter from amazon:

https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B01GGKYXVE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would also recommend these watch protectors that can be applied to the lens:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SJ22DBK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Info about it here:

https://imgur.com/a/UCztP78

The lens protector's link from the video:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3653631

you can always get something like this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M6EB8DM/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_12?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A25ZAA3BEH2FFI

I would recommend just getting the 3rd sensor while you still can.

https://www.amazon.com/Oculus-Sensor-16ft-Repeater-Cable-pc/dp/B0727WDPX6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=oculus+sensor&qid=1567435722&s=gateway&sr=8-2

KlearKare Invisible Screen Shield Protector for Generic Watch 42mm Face Bezel | Military Grade Scratch Protection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUJ39LM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_L-y.Bb8FP3GC2
I got these 42" they have been in there for a year now, no problems. They are smaller than the lenses but bigger than my glasses so I can't see the edge of them and no one who has used my rift has mentioned them being in there.
It's nice to be able to just wipe them off without worrying about scratching the lenses. I figured these would wear out every few months or so but they seem fine still.

Yeah, it was one of the ones on the wiki.

But this is it:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AA0U08M

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are what I use to extend my headset cables.

You actually can use longer passive extension cables. I'm using this 5m one. I'm sure not every cable will work, but this one worked for me

Which one did you order? I am trying to decide on one but there is one on Amazon that a guy claims it doesn't work with the rift s.

I'm thinking about getting this one...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072LS4JH7/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_W3D6Cb1WTE966

yeah the length limit is 3-5m, but a repeater can be self powered and can go up to 10m, i.e - its still just an extension cable to the end user, for example..

http://www.amazon.co.uk/CSL-repeater-extension-amplification-amplifier/dp/B00MPMFKSI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458896400&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+active+extension

plug and play.... so I still don't see how this is difficult or considered tweaking?

I just did some tests today. Mutec 10m [powered] -> UGREEN 10m [not powered] -> primewire hub [powered] -> 2x Rift Sensor USB 3.0 works. I'm a bit surprised myself.

Mutec cable: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01BLPSVFS

UGREEN cable: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01FQ88CHS

PrimeWire hub: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01K7RR3W8

USB Card used for the test: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S