(Part 3) Best products from r/simracing

Just upgrade your storage.

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Internal Drive

I'm assuming you have a 2013 model, but on any version of the PS4, replacing the internal drive is easy. It really only gets a little complicated if you want to back up your data beforehand, which you'll need to do if you want to keep your saved screenshots and video clips (though game save data and system settings will be backed up to the cloud if you have PS+, but make sure they're uploaded first). Keep in mind though that if you are thinking about re-downloading everything instead of backing up-- accepting the lost of your screenshots and video clips in the process-- this also means re-downloading all of your games.

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The choice of what kind of drive you upgrade to is up to you.

• If you want to considerably reduce your load times across the board, you could opt for a 1TB SSD. Sounds expensive, but SSDs have had a drastic decrease in cost over the years, so a fast, 1TB drive to cut down your load times isn't unreasonable.
  
• Whether you want to get the most affordable upgrade possible or if you prioritize storage size and cost over speed, a standard HDD will do the job. NOTE: The drive options in the HDD links go past 2TB, but those larger drives are 15mm drives instead of 9mm. Long story short, nothing past 2TB will fit in a PS4 without modifications.
  
• For a mix of speed and storage space / budget, you could pick up the in-between option, a hybrid drive. There's a bit of nuance to these drives, but if you're looking for the best of both worlds with a single drive, a hybrid drive does offer increased performance without sacrificing storage space.
  
  _
  
  To change out your PS4's internal drive (after backing up), turn off your PS4 and change out the drives. You'll have to get the PS4 update software from here, but, do not download it from the blue button, that's a different file than what you need. Scroll down to this part of the page and click on "Perform a new installation of the system software." Read through the instructions there, and you'll download the system software from the link under step 2. Then, turn your PS4 on in Safe Mode and install the system software.
  
  There, your system's drive is upgraded and installed, now you just restore from your PS+ cloud save or your physical drive backup.
  
  _
  
  External Drive
  
  If you don't want to deal with all of the work of changing out your internal drive, or maybe you want to run a dual-drive system, you can use an external drive.
  
  A good USB 3.0 drive makes a great option for bulk storage. This way you won't be limited by what can fit in your system, but more importantly, you'll have the option to separate slower bulk storage from a faster internal drive.
  
  If you included the above external drive with, say, a 500GB or a 1TB SSD, you can have your OS, capture data, and frequently played / bigger games on a faster drive, giving your better load times across the board, whilst still having a secondary bulk drive for your game collection. This is personally what I'd recommend.
  
  But again, if you're just looking for an easy way to increase you system's storage capacity without dealing with hard drive swapping or OS installation, you could just get a large-capacity external drive.
  
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  The Point is
  
  Instead of getting rid of games and getting new ones, just increase the amount of space you can use to store them.

|What games/sims are the most life like?

• iracing
  
• rfactor 2
  
• assetto corsa
  
• game stock car 2013/extreme
  
  All of the above games are more or less the most popular games with the best physics. They all have their up and downsides. They are all miles ahead of any codemasters f1 game or forza. They also all offer the ability to drive open-wheel cars, although some games require mods or dlc to do so.
  
  | What wheels are the best?
  
  If you want a good xbox one compatible wheel then you're basically looking at the Thrustmaster TX. It has a really good belt driven system and has a detachable rim. The downside is you need to buy a separate set of pedals and shifter if you want to drive manual. If you want something less expensive, the best bang for your buck IMO is the Logitech G27, but it is PC/PS3 only.
  
  |How much cost is associated with sim racing?
  
  Well essentially you need a wheel and a game. A good wheel will set you back anywhere between $200-$700, and most games are between $20-$60.
  
  If you want participate in competitive online racing, you are basically going to have to go with iracing. They have by far the best multiplayer. However, you have to pay a subscription fee and must buy most of the tracks/cars separately. This is where cost can get out of hand.
  
  
  I have a lot of fun with a pretty basic setup, however the sky is the limit as far as spending goes. But no matter how much you do end up spending, it will be a fraction of the cost of a trackday weekend.
  

> Nice. I am currently designing a F1 wheel replica, and have made wheels in the past. If this is something that you want to do more, I advise spending money on a 3D printer, the Creality Ender 3 is excellent for £150, which is about 160 euro. (This will also allow you to very accurately prototype. I also like the custom quickrelease, a mod I am just finishing on my T300.

Yeah, I'm definitively going to get a 3D-printer once I move out of my studio apartment and get some money. Thanks for the recommendation!

> Have you thought of covering the handles? You can use suede material, or various things like plastidip or sugru for a more rubbery finish.

Yeah, I'm probably going to try self-fusing rubber tape to cover the handles. Something like this but maybe narrower: https://www.amazon.com/X-Treme-Tape-TPE-XR1510ZLB-Silicone-Rectangular/dp/B00HWROO7E/ref=pd_cp_328_1?pd_rd_w=TjtWn&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=NHWY47ZSHGV250NA3EWS&pd_rd_r=232d9373-4cbd-11e9-a258-1dc4cbbc6958&pd_rd_wg=AQ5YE&pd_rd_i=B00HWROO7E&psc=1&refRID=NHWY47ZSHGV250NA3EWS

> Judging by your previous posts, you seem to be quite into this. Are you thinking of doing any other wheels?

Yeah, I probably will in the future. I'm quite happy with this now, but maybe I'll do a more advanced F1-style design one day. I've also thought of doing a button box for a D-shaped wheel and maybe designing and building my own pedals with a load cell brake, as I don't have a load cell brake currently.

> I also have a questions. Where is that fancy looking usb cable from? I am looking for one that screws into the wheel.

It's just a normal cheapo coiled USB-A to micro-USB cable from ebay, and I bought the 5-pin airplane DIN connector separately, so something like these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mobile-Phone-V8-Coiled-5-Pin-Adapter-Data-cable-Charger-Micro-Usb-For-Samsung/123576401188

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Pin-Female-Male-Microphone-Connector-for-CB-Radio-Ham-Plug-/200913559171

5-pin connector wasn't necessary as USB 2.0 has only four, but I couldn't find four-pin connectors at the time so I went with five, and just used the pins 1-4 on that.

> Also, how did you fit a button onto to the top right front and back, I can never find space for them.

The button on the backside just about fits internally, and the internal part of it actually extends between the internal parts of the buttons on the front side. It was a little bit of an afterthought and I had to drill in to the 3D-printed cover to get the hole for the backside button. These buttons have a nut and a spring washer on them on the inside, but I had to not use the spring washer for the button that is behind the grip, as I couldn't get it to fit properly with that.

The wheel technology/FFB is the same as the Fanatec CSL Elite, it just comes with a very nice wheel rim. And ofc you would have to buy other TM rims that work with it instead of Fanatec rims, unless you get an adapter or something

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EDIT: I just checked, and the CSL Elite is $80 more (again, just the wheel and no pedals or gearbox) with a much more basic rim. I would get the Thrustmaster at the $500 price point, it's a pretty good deal! The Thrustmaster T-GTis exactly the same price as the CSL Elite, but the only special thing is the extra knobs and joysticks and vibration motors that only work with GT Sport on PS4. So, I would say that Thrustmaster's is really the best you can get at that price. CSL Elite is the same, but more expensive with a worse (Fanatec's most basic one they sell) rim.

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Basically, you're either paying for the most beginner and cheap kit Fanatec makes, or the most premium kit Thrustmaster makes. People buying Thrustmaster's expect their product to be good and have a good rim etc since it's the best product Thrustmaster currently manufactures. Fanatec doesn't put as much effort towards their cheaper offerings since they know people don't expect amazing quality on their cheapest wheel. Unless you mean saving up for a Clubsport V2.5, I would go with what I sent.

You're welcome.

I was confused as to the seat as well. Balance is very important on these rigs, and you want to go as light as possible. The first seat I bought was close to 40 pounds, but I replaced it with a much lighter seat here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LEONACA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This seat is about 20 pounds, and is quite comfortable.

Other seats (especially seats like the NLR seat) aren't particularly light because they usually are mounted to static rigs, where weight doesn't matter. You want to go as light possible.

Hope that helps!

I would have a back pain in that chair too. Get a more comfortable chair!

I used to have a terrible back pain from sitting in one of my older office chairs until I got this chair. It is so much more comfortable for a back and I usually spend most of my day sitting in it while I do work. Also, the back of the chair adjust just like in a car - there is a knob on the left hand side if you look closer in the picture. Pulling that allows to adjust the angle of the back at desired position. Also the chair is quite wide and shoulders fit in nicely between those side arms on shoulder level. The back of the chair feels like in a Recaro Style car seat, which makes it very comfortable for the back. The seat itself is not too hard and not too soft and holds the body well in the char since it is a bucket seat style. I've had this chair for over a year now and I would buy it again if I had to.

My CSL Elite throttle also started getting jittery/spikey after a year of use. I got some some DeoxIT D5 and that completely fixed it. Also picked up some ‘reel butter’ for the gears, seems like a good safe lubricant for plastic and was pretty cheap.

A touch-less sensor would be ideal but the potentiometer should be better shrouded or sealed. It's fairly exposed but at least it's easy access to service.

With loadcell I prefer them over the t3pa pros as well

Just get yourself the x34

It caps at 100hz with gsync but the monitor is absolutely gorgeous. You get the extra peripheral vision though not as big as triples, but the clarity, lack of bezel mixed in, and the 100hz refresh makeup for the missing pixels.

ninja: I do remember reading months back that LG has their next panel in the works with something like a 240hz refresh and a derivative of it which does 144hz both in the 21:9 package. May be worth holding out for a bit, but I doubt either sells for under $1400

edit: what it looks like playing Dirt Rally on my x34 with G27. Don't think the clip kept my 100fps but the aspect ratio is the main focus. Let's you see just enough to be useful without introducing a bunch of excess visuals.

I bought 2 of these for £23 each at the time (on offer) :

https://www.conrad-electronic.co.uk/ce/en/product/378284/Car-subwoofer-passive-130-mm-80-W-Sinuslive-Bass-Pump-III-8-

As an alternative, these seem to get good reviews on Amazon for much less £££'s :

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Unknown-Bodyshaker/dp/B002LQAHPE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538384751&sr=8-2&keywords=bass+shaker

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Along with this SMSL 2x50W amp :

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SA-50-TDA7492-Stereo-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B008Y7S198/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538383831&sr=8-3&keywords=smsl+sa-50

These connectors :

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00169BIF0/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And 2m of audio cable (only available inn 1m atm) :

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fisual-S-Flex-Studio-Grade-Speaker-Black/dp/B01L2EK7EG?th=1

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I have the 2 shakers mounted underneath my Ikea chair on the left & right sides.

They are just screwed into the wood base with some rubber washers on there too for dampening.

I've read that it's better with the shakers mounted on some metal brackets / bars to allow them to vibrate more, but I haven't tried this yet.

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Currently use a SoundBlaster Z for the main pc sound, and my motherboards' onboard audio to drive the amp/shakers.

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Works well as far as I can tell - don't have anything to compare it against - and I never need to have the amp above 50% volume, with the onboard audio at 90% volume in windows.

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For software I use SimVibe, but both Simhub & SimShaker Wheels also work well too. I'd say SimhHub is easier to tweak to taste due to not needing to mess around with .wav files in Audacity.

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Plus if you want rumble from other games / movies output through the shakers for some added immersion, then use Voicemeter Banana and enable the eq on the secondary output channel assigned to the onboard audio.

Then set the low pass filter @75-90Hz.

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There's a big thread on RaceDepartment with plenty of more info on setups much more advanced than mine :

https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/tactile-immersion-general-discussion-hardware-software.137631/

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Easily the t300 gt it runs about 360 [on the German amazon] (https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B01HRYFODO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?__mk_de_DE=ÅMÅZÕÑ&qid=1491256865&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=T300+gt&dpPl=1&dpID=41FH4dYDMKL&ref=plSrch). You can add a shifter. Or get this version which has a better Alcantara rim. Either way both these wheelbase will provide much better force feedback, better pedals and the Ferrari bundle a better rim than the Logitech offering.

I have (4) Aura's in chassis mode running on one of these:

https://www.rockvilleaudio.com/rxm-s20/

Yes, it is a car audio amp and I power it off of a modded 650 watt computer PSU under my rig. It has been working flawlessly for almost a year now.

In addition to that, I power all 5 of my surround sound speakers with another one of their amps:

https://www.rockvilleaudio.com/rxh-f5/

And I drive it with another 650 watt (converted) computer PSU.

Both amps cost me less than $200.00 total (combined) with free shipping, brand new.

Both PSU's are silent and I have a 200mm 12v fan that keeps everything cool whenever the chassis is powered up.

I used 2 pairs of these to combine all 12v and all -12v (ground) cables coming from the PSU's to make one solid connection to the amp(s) power and ground connector blocks.

https://www.amazon.com/Conext-Link-GAD48-Gauge-Reducer/dp/B01K1INH82/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536122430&sr=1-1&keywords=Conext+Link+GAD48+4+Gauge+to+8+Gauge+Wire+Reducer+2+Pack

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The system sounds and feels absolutely amazing and I would never run without it. It has never once given me an issue. I race several hours a day, sometimes 5 days a week on it.

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If you want more info, just ask. But basically, there is no reason to spend big money on fancy amps for a chassis mode set up. All they do is shake and as long as you can provide clean 50w power to each shaker, you have more than you need.....ever.

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​

Of those 3 the TX (XBox version of the T300) has the best FFB, but has the crappy 2 pedal set.

The T150 has slightly better FFB than the G29.

The pedals of the G29 and T150 RS Pro are roughly the same, both decent.

I assume the G29 price does not include the shifter (you need to buy it separately), so I would say the T150 is the better choice at that price.

Me, I'd spend a little extra for something like the T300 RS GT Edition (T300 with a decent 3 pedals set similar to the G29's/T150 RS Pro's).

I couldn't find any adapters for the T150. The T300 has some though.

The top-end Thrustmaster bases are perfectly comparable to the CSL, everyone in this thread seems to be thinking of the TS-PC / T-GT / TS-XW as equivalent to the T300 which just isn't at all true.

Pedal wise it's trickier as Thrustmaster don't offer a loadcell (though plenty of people would argue the T3PA brake mod makes that fairly superfluous, it's a pretty subjective thing and a lot of the time it's post-purchase rationalisation either way) - but you can always use Fanatec's pedals with Thrustmaster's base.

Just for the sake of (much) cheaper rims I'd personally go for a TS-PC instead of the CSL, even if I was using the Fanatec pedals. I'd either go for the TS-PC and add the 599XX or Sparco r383 rim, or the TS-XW by itself (though Thrustmaster are a bit weird with selling that one with the T3PAs) and then get the Fanatec CSL pedals.

That should be within your budget roughly

TS-PC Racer: $450

TM Sparco R383: $200

CSL Elite LC: $200

Or alternatively you could look at the 488 Challenge wheel which just came out which is a 9:10 scale replica (32cm diameter compared to the standard T300's 28cm) on the TS base, which oculd be very nice (but bumps up the price a decent amount - if you wanted a formula rim you'd probably have to get the Ferrari F1 which is a bit plasticky compared to the rest)

Edit: The caveat here is that if you think you might end up moving up to a Clubsport wheelbase there might be a reason to start investing in the Fanatec ecosystem regarding rims etc. but you're well into diminishing returns at this point and there's every chance that Thrustmaster keep on bringing out higher end wheels given their current trends with the 488 Challenge/TS-XW/T-GT etc.

The playseat challenge looks awesome, is it able to support a flight throttle and stick such as a Saitek set?

I just purchased the Next Level Flight stand for $200 off eBay because it is collapsible and supports racing and flight controls. Will be delivered next week. It doesnt come with a seat though like the playseat challenge.

Next Level Racing Wheel and Flight Stand
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WVDKSP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YkzbAbAHTH2R2

First thing is the "registers values when it is not even being engaged." issue. You need to get some Caig Deoxit to clean the potentiometers. That will resolve that issue. I'm not sure you'll be happy with not hard mounting the pedals if you have a really heavy brake pedal; I know I wouldn't be.

I bought THIS and love it. It says unavailable now, so I'm not sure if it's available elsewhere. I bought it as a temporary solution until I could build something. But after receiving it and using it for a couple months, I have no urge to use anything else. It's awesome.

NRG Innovations FRP-301 Race Style Bolster/Lumbar Bucket Seat (Large) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LEONACA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JCEZDbAV7B9TC

Really good full rigid racing seat for us big guys. Nice and wide. Would never put it in a real car, but for SimRacing it’s perfect!

The first one looks pretty old, like in the earlier days of playseat stands, while it is cheap, is probably not worth it, you'll end up regretting it. It has a flawed design as pointed out by others where the bar connecting the wheel to the stand will only get in the way. Reviews also say that the stand is too light and moves with pedals are pressed and that g27s keep falling off the stand.

The wheel stand pro v2 is, IMO, the better of the two and worth the extra money. I have owned one for nearly a year, still the best purchase I ever made, besides the g27 itself. This model is pre-drilled for a g27 meaning you can bolt it to the stand and it is completely solid. The only thing going anywhere is me going backwards in my office chair (Need to take the wheels off my chair...).

I have this exact chair and love it. I'm on hardwood floors so I ordered these caster wheel stoppers. They work perfect and can be swapped in and out in a few seconds.

Another option that's pretty close your price range is to get the TS-PC with your G27 pedals with a logitec pedal adaptor. I don't think the Thrustmaster pedals would be much of an upgrade anyway. If you really want to upgrade your G27 pedals, I think your best bet would be some PT1's.

This would cost you 120 more than my first recommendation. Though it would also mean getting the latest and greatest Thrustmaster. Fanatec does offer a better wheel, but this is pretty close to the highest quality wheel you can get outside of a direct drive wheel.

There is the Apiga AP2 seat attachment on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/APIGA-Frame-Foldable-Racing-Simulator/dp/B016A7CS2E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465967124&sr=8-2&keywords=apiga+ap2

It should work for any bottom mount seat, and you could easily make some brackets for a side mount seat as well.

But I know some companies make display stands for their seats as well, I think Corbeau is one of them.

Selling the following:

Thrustmaster TX Wheel Ferrari 458 Italia Edition
http://www.thrustmaster.com/en_US/products/tx-racing-wheel-ferrari-458-italia-edition

Thrustmaster TM Leather 28 GT Wheel add on
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TM-Leather-Wheel-Add-pc/dp/B00TTQKSUS

Both for $225 + shipping (US only)

I can try to take some pics of it tonight and post it here

That' only $25 cheaper than retailer, for a new unit. Yes it is a great wheel in that price point. Even if you want to upgrade later on each piece can be replaced individually. There is no competition at this price point that gets you wheel, pedals, H shifter.

I saw this as well, which is basically both combined for less than the original+addon...

This might be what I go with but I'm also seeing all these on ebay for under $100 which is kind of what I had in mind if I were to DIY it... but I'm usually terrified of ebay and I can only find one review of an adorable Aussie kid who loves it... I just can't find any detailed information on mounting capabilities...

• Wheel base: $220
  
  
  
• Shifter: $180
  
  
  
• Pedals: $150
  
  
  
• Wheel rim: $200
  
  Grand total: $750
  
  
• Fanatec: $1000
  
  It's really not that far off when you consider that Fanatec is broadly considered higher quality than Thrustmaster. I was ready to go all-in on Thrustmaster before I added it all up and realized I might as well keep saving and get the Fanatec stuff.

The other option I'm looking at is: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WVDKSP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YkzbAbAHTH2R2 so I can more easily mount my hotas joystick along with my wheel and shifter but I really like the idea of the racing seat so I'm just not sure what to do.

Any of the Thrustmaster wheels should work on it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014US048A/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_1_w

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-F458-Wheel-playstation-3/dp/B00CP4IKHE/ref=sr_1_50?srs=2530623011&ie=UTF8&qid=1521061859&sr=8-50

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TM-Leather-Wheel-Add-pc/dp/B00TTQKSUS/ref=sr_1_56?srs=2530623011&ie=UTF8&qid=1521061859&sr=8-56

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Sparco-Rally-Wheel-Add-383/dp/B0764415FS/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1521061911&sr=1-1&keywords=sparco+thrustmaster

If you want cheaper, maybe someone will sell your their 458 rim from the TX regular package or something.

You can buy the T300 Base for $244 from Amazon plus your choice of wheel like the Ferrari 599XX EVO Wheel Add-On, Alcantara Edition for $165, the TM Leather 28 GT for $150 or the Ferrari GTE F458 for $130 or you could listen to /u/isternes and go Fanatec for a few dollars more.

The MSRP on the G27 was around $250. Amazon had them for $238 when I bought mine on the 26th. Here's the price history..

The G29 is $350 AND doesn't include a shifter, which is an additional $75.

So a similar setup with a G29 would be $425ish, whereas the G27 is like $250.

I'm building my new aluminum profile rig now and if you are in US and are interested PM me and I can sell you my previous stand at a reasonable price. I bought it in late 2014 on Amazon and I've been using it all the time with my G27. It is this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084EG3ZA

I wonder if this one is any good.





https://www.amazon.com/NRG-Innovations-FRP-301-Bolster-Lumbar/dp/B01LEONACA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=17YR37XO02ID5&keywords=nrg+seats&qid=1551280093&s=gateway&sprefix=nrg&sr=8-2

You could also get something like this, there are also little stopper things that go under the wheels if you don't want to replace them

Amazon magically has them back also for $399, 27% off: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQDQA3U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

If you're in the US, the G27 is $240 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NT9TK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_w7YDwbT3ZZ68G

here is a link if you want to buy a new one https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-941-000045-G27-Racing-Wheel/dp/B001NT9TK4?ie=UTF8&creative=395393&creativeASIN=B001NT9TK4&linkCode=df0&ref_=asc_df_B001NT9TK44227747&smid=A1ZAH2K06WWVUP&tag=shopbotca-20

G27 is at 220 at amazon...

It's still up here:
https://www.amazon.fr/ThrustMaster-Volant-Licence-Officielle-Turismo/dp/B01HRYFODO/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_fr_FR=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=UC4295SBSNLA&keywords=thrustmaster+t300rs&qid=1574988617&sprefix=thrustmaster+%2Caps%2C143&sr=8-3

and here:

https://www.cdiscount.com/informatique/gaming/thrustmaster-volant-pour-jeux-video-t300rs-gt-edit/f-107140306-3362934110420.html#mpos=0|cd

Nope it is two of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002LQAHPE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and one of these:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07BNMQ7CZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gives plenty of immersion in VR

So um... I looked up the G27 out of curiosity...

It's not what I would call cheap.

Keep an eye on this page:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B001NT9TK4/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

On 12/1 I saw the G27 for $167.88:

https://imgur.com/ytfT5gg

https://www.amazon.com/ThrustMaster-2969099-Thrustmaster-TS-PC-Racer/dp/B01MQDQA3U/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1BOAMWPOPSUX1&keywords=thrustmaster%2Bts-pc&qid=1574694712&sprefix=thrustmaster%2Bts%2Caps%2C1061&sr=8-1&th=1

17% off

It's not the pricing algorithm because it's not even sold by Amazon

Also an option for us Canadians. is the TS-PC racer. Right now it's $504.99 CAD with free shipping if you have prime. I had it in my watch list for a while and I ordered one yesterday when they went from about $606 CAD to to $527. Of course the day after they go even lower and Amazon won't credit me the difference :/

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01MQDQA3U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://camelcamelcamel.com/Logitech-941-000045-G27-Racing-Wheel/product/B001NT9TK4?context=browse

The price started at over $300 on Amazon in 2009. It does show a dip to about $210 in August 2010, but otherwise $192 is as low as it's ever been. Who'd you buy it from?