#435 in Computer accessories & peripherals
Reddit mentions of Cable Matters UL Listed 25-Pack Cat6 RJ45 Keystone Jack in White and Keystone Punch-Down Stand
Sentiment score: 8
Reddit mentions: 19
We found 19 Reddit mentions of Cable Matters UL Listed 25-Pack Cat6 RJ45 Keystone Jack in White and Keystone Punch-Down Stand. Here are the top ones.
Buying options
View on Amazon.comor
- Heavy duty Cat6 RJ45 Keystone modular jack for patch panels, surface mount boxes, or wall plates (face plates) with standard keystone ports
- Future proof your network for 10-Gigabit Ethernet at a Cat5e price with this convenient and cost effective multi-pack punch down keystone for Ethernet
- Gold plated contacts and easy snap-in retaining clip ensure a secure and corrosion free connection
- Cost-effective 25-pack of Category 6 KJ modules includes a keystone jack punch-down stand for easier and safer cable termination; Impact tool or tool-free 90 degree termination
- Heavy duty construction includes an impact-resistant and fire-retardant housing with gold-plated RJ45 contacts, dual IDC covers, and a snap-in retaining clip for a secure connection
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 0.7 Inches |
Length | 1.2 Inches |
Size | 25 Pack |
Weight | 0.5 Pounds |
Width | 0.9 Inches |
get a keystone based system. Its much easier to work with, and much easier to change around.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Mount-24-Port-Keystone/dp/B0072JVT02
and then use these to fill it in. They come in many colors too, so you can easily identify ports.
Do you have a link for that cable, the picture doesn’t tell enough of the story.
I wouldn’t terminate them with rj45s, I’d opt for these, with boxes and wall plates.
What you're looking for is called a keystone jack. It's a fairly standardized way of providing network ports in a wall outlet.
You can do it that way, but it isn't recommended. Putting on your own male networking connectors has become bad form, sort of, over the last few years. They just aren't very reliable when using solid conductor cable and they are extremely difficult to install on stranded cable without the $50k machine they use in the factory... Someday your home terminated cable will fail for no apparent reason and it will ruin your life.
If I were doing it, I would run the cable and put a box in the wall. The cable is fine. I would pickup some old work low voltage boxes, and install a wall plate and use some keystone jacks and whatever jumpers you like.
If you are open to buying somewhere other than monoprice, I really like the Cable Matters keystone jacks nowadays. I like this punch tool but this knockoff works ok as well and if you are just doing a few than you could probably get away with the plastic thing that comes with each keystone jack... they eventually will work it might just take longer and you might have to dick with it a bit.
It looks like the stuff you have picked out will work, but it just might not be super reliable or aesthetically pleasing. Plus, what do you do if you move something? Now you just have a hole in the wall with some wires flopping around... If you put jacks on the wall they just blend in with all the other jacks on the wall if you remove the jumpers...
I have been really pleased with everything from Cable Matters lately. We terminated 1200 cables for a huge IP HD video system a few weeks ago using their stuff and only had 2 or 3 that had to be repunched and we had one cable run that didn't check and that was probably our fault pulling too hard and getting a kink in it. It's pretty reasonably priced all things considered.
Also, the cable you have picked out is great. It's pure copper and not copper clad aluminum (CCA). Never use CCA it's absolute garbage and won't ever work for anything. CCA will ruin your life.
EDIT: I just wanted to correct myself, we have been buying Honeywell Genesis cat6 cable lately... not monoprice. We have been getting a better deal through ADI global on the Honeywell stuff and it is very nice cable. The reel in a box is so much better than the usual mess... no more kinks so you don't need to pay someone $25 an hour to babysit some boxes and pay out cable and yell "stop!" over the radio all day when they have to sort a kink...
RJ-45 to Punch down?
Also someone pointed out something I missed. The premade wire you have is stranded. That's really hard to terminate to the point that it isn't recommended. You should stick to the keystone couplers where you need a female port.
If you looks for different cable, Cat 6a, Solid Copper (opposed to stranded), and Pure Copper (opposed to Copper Clad Aluminum or CCA)
$150-180 +Tax (if Prime) to DIY
You need a spool of cat 5e/6, 6 Keystone jacks, 3+ Faceplates, some single and double gang brackets and a few cheap tools.
The brackets are what goes into the dry wall so the face plates have something to screw into.
Single / Double Gang is the size of the bracket.
Single gand = the size of a box for 1 outlet.
Double Gang = The size of a box for 2 outlets (side by side)
Tools: https://www.amazon.com/Zoostliss-Portable-Ethernet-Crimping-Detector/dp/B01JU2XERY/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1497913897&sr=8-27&keywords=cat+5+punch+down
Cable: https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Cable-000ft-Cat-6-VIVO/dp/B0092TK2U8/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1497914001&sr=1-2&keywords=1000+ft+cat6&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
Keystones: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-25-Pack-Keystone-Punch-Down/dp/B004D5PFGW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497914060&sr=8-2&keywords=cat+6+keystone+jack
FacePlates (Dual): https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Keystone-Plate-2-Port-White/dp/B0722K3K8R/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1497914110&sr=8-12&keywords=keystone+faceplates
Note* You are going to be under the house or in the attic. The work sucks but its way worse going in there for a 2nd time to run 1 extra wire... do yourself a favor... if you are running 1 length to a room.... run 2.
Faceplates (Double Gang): https://www.amazon.com/Port-Keystone-Faceplate-Dual-White/dp/B004FUWY3C/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1497914196&sr=8-7&keywords=keystone+faceplates
Low Voltage Bracket (Double Gang): https://www.amazon.com/Cmple-Low-Voltage-Bracket-Dual-Gang/dp/B003ZWHK6C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497914233&sr=8-2&keywords=double+gang+low+voltage+wall+plate
[BUY 3 of these] Low Voltage Bracket (Single Gang): https://www.amazon.com/Cmple-Low-Voltage-Bracket-Dual-Gang/dp/B003ZWJGGE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497914233&sr=8-2&keywords=double%2Bgang%2Blow%2Bvoltage%2Bwall%2Bplate&th=1
[EXTRA]
This is not necessary but super helpful for drilling through studs you cants see. Also keeps you from cutting more holes in the drywall than necessary. If you are done drilling holes, sell it on Craigslist for @ afterwards.
Stud Drill Bit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLGT4GI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
As Solar says they are just 4 couplers mounted in a face plate. Don’t buy this. Either you need couplers, which should be bought cheaper without the faceplate. Or you want a face plate and these and it’s probably cheaper to buy them separate.
Edit, was struggling with formatting...
If you're already here asking the right questions I'm confident you can get through it.
I was expecting to have to spend a couple of hours getting the AP working the way I wanted, but the whole thing literally took five minutes. It was literally, make a user account and password, assign a vlan, click next a couple of times and that was it. There would be a little more to it if you're setting up a firewall and a switch as well, but it's pretty much as easy as it can be.
You will need something to run the Ubiquiti web interface on. They sell something called a cloud key for this, but you could also use a Raspberry Pi3, since they're cheaper and do the same thing. You could also run the Ubiquiti controller software on any Linux system that you have laying around.
As for the wiring itself, what I did was get a small wall-mounted rack, like this one. Then I ran the cables to a Cat 6 patch panel, like this. From the patch panel, I ran connections to my rackmount router and switches. I've basically only ever followed the bundle of snakes cabling model in the past, so it's satisfying to have everything nice and professional looking.
I used Cable Matters stuff for wall plates and keystone jacks, etc. You'll also need a spool of CAT6 Ethernet cable, and a punchdown tool. I have a 4-way wall plate near my workstation and another 2-way near my printers.
If you do run your own connections you will want to get a cable tester. I did create one bad punchdown and this tester found it no problem. There are lots of other testers out there and I'm sure nearly all would do the job.
Good luck!
I think they meant something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Mount-24-Port-Keystone/dp/B0072JVT02/
"Keystone patch panel" is the search term you want. And don't buy your keystone jacks individually, buy them in bulk. They'll be much cheaper:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-25-Pack-Keystone-Punch-Down/dp/B004D5PFGW/
If you look throughout your house where the ethernet ports are, there's a good chance they're also keystone jacks. Picture these, with those keystone jacks slotted in to them:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plate-2-Port-Keystone/dp/B0072JVU8S/
Also, if you've never used it before, https://www.monoprice.com/ is your new best friend. I'd recommend always comparing prices between them and Amazon before buying something.
Okay so heres my new plans for the design:
250FT Stranded UTP Cat6 - $45
Cat6 Connectors for UTP Stranded - $11
12 Port Vertical Mini Patch Panel for Cat6 - $20
8 Port Gigabit Ethernet Switch - $29
10 Pack Wall Plate 2-Port Keystone Jack - $10
10 Pack Keystone Jack Cat6 - $14
Total: $129, but previously $131 (100ft cat6 + connectors + wall jacks) and this does much more. Would that be good?
that's a pretty legit list right there. I have a trunk full of gear, probably worth almost as much as my car. I do a lot of contract work, so my list is pretty much the same just slightly beefed up.
Replenishables
contractor things
and a myriad of other small parts pertaining to surveillance system installs, and screw bits for my drill, and i even have secured walkies for when i have multiple employees on site. plus i have to admit bluetooth headsets for when i have to deal with helpdesks or tech support while i'm on site... did i mention i do a lottttt of contract work. i'm all over the place. every now and then i run into things that this kit can't handle but for the most part i come away with a rather professional look.
sorry for formatting, i've seen plenty of these posts this is the first time i took time to actually look up evrything i've purchased.
Edit: Some formatting. added velcro :P
I've found these. How exactly do I connect cables to this? The original ones I had had terminals to screw down. Are these just tension? If so how do I ensure the cables stay connected?
if you have enough slack in your cat5/6 cables you could remove the boards completely and terminate right into these keystones - https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-25-Pack-Keystone-Punch-Down/dp/B004D5PFGW (i didn't have extra slack so I had to use Rj45s on both sides.
> CAT 6 "ends" (jacks? plugs?)
In ITU nomenclature, the male end of a cable is a plug, and the female receptacle in the wall is a jack.
> We just purchased a new house and it has 3 runs of CAT 6 cable, but no "ends." I only need 6 ends, where is the best place to order them from?
Slow down. You need to determine what type of cable you have in your house first. 95% it will be solid-core cable. Solid-core can be identified from the cut end as each of the eight wires will be a single copper wire. Solid-core will also be stiffer, and tend to hold a bend.
If you have stranded-core, things change and you do need to spend a bit more on tools.
If you have solid-core (which you should, and is better in this case) you need to terminate to female jacks. Jacks can be found in any home-improvement store, as well as online. Keystone-style jacks are the most convenient especially for new installers. If you're in the US you want something like this.
If you also need to mount these in the wall, you want to ad a low-voltage, old-work box (which are open in the back and usually black or orange) and a keystone face-plate. All of these are available in multi-gang, and multiple ports-per-gang, as well as decora-style if you're nitpicky like me.
For just a few drops, I would look at your local big-box home improvement store first. They will be a little more expensive per-drop, but probably cheaper for the entire project. They will also accept returns when you buy the wrong part and can help you find compatible products.
> Also, are the ends tricky to install or could a person with no experience figure it out pretty easily?
You can do it yourself pretty easily. The jacks should come with instructions and a small plastic tool. If you have trouble, there are dozens of posts in this sub with advice. Also, you probably know someone who can help you out for the cost of a 6-pack. Most IT professionals can do this.
When punching down (connecting the cable to the jack) there will be two different "orders" you can put the individual wires in. It doesn't matter which one you use as long as both ends are the same. However, in the US, order "B" is the most common.
Thanks for the advice! Do keystones need to be rated exactly for Cat6a, or are they interchangable? I saw this 25-pack on Amazon for 29USD but they say they're for Cat6.
This is the punchdown tool I've got so I think I'm set there. I have ordinary wire strippers (very similar to these), would those work or would I have to buy something like this instead?
something a lot of people dont realize in new homes: All your phone jacks, that likely go to the same wiring panel as anything else would, most of the time those phone jacks were ran with Cat5e or Cat6. From there you just buy a 110 block punch down tool (https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM), some keystones https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-25-Pack-Keystone-Punch-Down/dp/B004D5PFGW, and some plates, and start re-purposing those phone jacks you dont need.
>the thing that goes to the wall and you use the puncher?
Do you mean a keystone jack?
Wiring 101. Most of this other have covered.
9)Use Keystone jacks, and a insert, and face plates in the field. 110 punch down in the closet. I would not recommend putting male ends on( BTW they are called 8P8C), use the jacks, face plates, and 110 punch down.
I have a ethernet passive hub that I made in my network bag. I use it as a manual port mirror. It works very well. I have one side as RX only for sniffing and the other side for sharing (RX and TX)
(Total of four ports/keystones, 1. Orig path in 2. Orig path out. 3. Tap RX 4. Tap RX/TX)
Very easy to make one yourself:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-25-Pack-Keystone-Punch-Down/dp/B004D5PFGW
Just remember to keep the wiring as short as possible between the keystones.
​
Or you can just buy a pre-made one.