Reddit mentions of Zoostliss Network Cable Tester RJ45 RJ11 RJ12 UTP LAN Cable Tester Networking Tool

Read through the links before you add anything to your cart, the tools at the top are what I personally use and can vouch for, the tools at the bottom are in kits and case save you some money if you only do this once in a while but I can't vouch for the quality. I'm also assuming you own a wire stripper.

Crimping tool(17$):

TRENDnet 8P/RJ-45 and 6P/RJ-12, RJ-11 Crimp, Cut, and Strip Tool, TC-CT68 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_piZVAbZZVWPM7

Has a built in perfect cut wire strippers

Connectors(9$):

Cybertech Cat6, Cat5e RJ-45 8P8C Ethernet Modular Crimp Connectors Plugs Pack of 100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LG6DQUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YiZVAb72959BY

Cat5e Cable(25$) (200ft, pre-made but you can clip and make your own out of it)

200FT Feet CAT5 Cat5e Ethernet Patch Cable - RJ45 Computer Networking Wire Cord (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XBHM6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RkZVAbZ8D2F00

The cable is actually not that good of a deal because you can get 1000ft for 50$ without any ends, but I was aiming for sub 50$.

Total cost: 51$

Additional extras I'd recommend:

Cable tester(8$) tests if the cables and connections you made are good. A great investment for beginners and pros)

Zoostliss Network Cable Tester RJ45 RJ11 RJ12 UTP LAN Cable Tester Networking Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZYXN63/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tnZVAb616Y59H

Cable boots(6$) protect your cable ends from having the tips broken and looks cleaner IMO


uxcell 100 Pcs Soft Plastic Ethernet RJ45 Cable Connector Boots Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K82RNX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qoZVAb54MHXCJ


They also have combo kits like this that exist, I can't speak to their quality but the tools are simple tools so this may save you some scratch

>UbiGear Cable Tester +Crimp Crimper +100 RJ45 CAT5 CAT5e Connector Plug Network Tool Kits (Crimper315) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hqZVAb8RM9GVK

Has the tester and everything, includes a wire stripper which is nice

>Maxmoral 7 in 1 Cable Tester + Crimp Crimper + Wire Stripper + 50 RJ45 CAT5 CAT5e Connector Plug + 100 Cable Ties + 100 Cable Cord Holder Clips + 2 Ethernet Connector Network Tool Kits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J7S5X6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VrZVAb10QP91E

Same deal, has boots though.

Patch cables being 568B and in-wall jacks being 568A are absolutely not a problem. BUT, if half your house is 568A in-wall and the other half 568B, my spider senses would definitely be tingling that you've just plain got some miswired jacks. I'd recommend grabbing an inexpensive cable tester (example) and making certain all runs are okay.

These are helpful little things Zoostliss Network Cable Tester RJ45 RJ11 RJ12 UTP LAN Cable Tester Networking Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZYXN63/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oGpvCbWQEFE94 to make sure the wiring is all correct if the issue persists I would then try requiring TIA568B.

you didn't really ask a question, so I have to infer that you're asking why you're only getting 100mbps on some, and Gigabit on others?

100mbps networking, or 100BaseTX, only requires connectivity on two pairs: pins 1,2 and pins 3,6. where pairs on pins 4/5 and 7/8 are unused. This gives 100mbps in each direction (full duplex).

Alternatively, 1000BaseT, the most common copper Gigabit standard, uses all 4 pairs in the wire to handle the 1000mbps throughput. Duplexing is not an option, since there isn't half-duplex operation built into the 1000baseT standard. so it always requires all four pairs to be correctly connected to work.

additionally, older and especially more budget PCs will provide only "FE" or "Fast Ethernet" network interfaces, which are only capable of 10/100mbps operation (10BaseT and 100BaseTX). Regardless of what's on the other end.

So a few things could be happening: you could have a wire with only two pairs connected - it's uncommon but I've seen it with patch cables; cheap wires only connected pairs 1/2 and 3/6. and that exists somewhere in the link, either in the patch at one end or the other, or the cabling inbetween; OR, Some of the extra wires necessary for 1000BaseT are damaged, and therefore inoperable; OR, the device on one end or the other doesn't support Gigabit operation.

In my experience one or more of those things will be true in your situation. If you want to validate your cables, you can buy a cheap cable tester ( something like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Zoostliss-Network-Cable-Tester-Networking/dp/B06XZYXN63 ), and it will show you whether or not all pairs are correctly connected.

Good Luck.

Could try a network cable tester like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZYXN63

It is hard to tell if that is Ethernet or phone from the photo, if it has 8 wires going into the back then it's Ethernet.
I would suggest one of these to figure out what goes where.

>what is the best way to determine what wiring protocol was used at the wall plates?

Pop them out and take a look. Usually, they are labelled which standard the wiring diagram is for. It may just say "A" and/or "B."

>For the cable input, is there a way to tell which end is live or is it trial and error?

Yes, but for a project this small trial and error is probably easiest. In larger instances, you can use a toner: https://smile.amazon.com/ELEGIANT-Multifunction-Collation-Telephone-Continuity/dp/B01HCQSHNG/

>Any other suggestions? I am new to this

At least buy a cheap cable tester! I have this one, works fine: https://smile.amazon.com/Zoostliss-Network-Cable-Tester-Networking/dp/B06XZYXN63/ You can waste SOOOO much time checking things just to realize you had a bad crimp or punch or miswired something. That device will let you know of any continuity/wiring issues.

You could use a punchdown tool to push in each of the wires at the connections to make sure they all have good contact. Then use a tester like, this or this, to make sure all wires test out. I like the latter one, as it is nicer and it also can test coax cables.

I’d honestly invest in a wire tester. you can get them at local bit box retailers. you attach it to the jack and then one to the opposite end of the line and itll tell you which twisted pair is as fault.

Zoostliss Network Cable Tester RJ45 RJ11 RJ12 UTP LAN Cable Tester Networking Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZYXN63/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_skE6BbN7QDDT3

It’s all practice man. Practice and decent tools will save you. I learned just from being an intern and making thousands of cables and I still make mistakes. Don’t get down on yourself. Get a pair of Klein snips, a crimper, and a punch down tool and you are set for 90% of anything. Need any help, send me a DM and I’ll give you some pointers.

Edit: also, get yourself a cheap tester like this one

-_-

hmmm....

Then all I can recommend to you is...

1. Verify with your ISP what you pay for, keeping in mind that they measure speed in mega BITS persecond, and your PC measures it in megaBYTES per second. Conversion is easy megaBITS/8 = megaBYTES. So 100mbps / 8 = 12.5MBps
   
   
2. Get a cable tester. This one only verifies physical connection, won't verify link speed. this one does that
   
   
3. Go buy a brand new cat 6 Ethernet long enough to suit your needs. Install it, and see if the problem still exists.
   
   
4. try a different port on your router or switch.

Granted it's more expense than you expected, but something like this is pretty cheap: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZYXN63/ Or probably even cheaper on ebay. They're all basically the same. The circuitry is so simple that it's hard for it to go wrong.

Alternatively, if you're that way inclined, you could Macgyver something, all you're doing is checking each wire for continuity at the RJ45 connectors.

I'm guessing that line either has a bad punchdown, or the wire is damaged. When you say you did a wire test I'm not sure what you mean by that. You might want to pick up something like this

Zoostliss Network Cable Tester RJ45 RJ11 RJ12 UTP LAN Cable Tester Networking Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZYXN63/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_lfFxDb0WRMX94

It will tell you which part of the cable is bad.

Test the cable.

https://www.amazon.com/Zoostliss-Network-Cable-Tester-Networking/dp/B06XZYXN63/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=cable+tester&qid=1564446411&s=gateway&sr=8-9

Also might be a good idea to replace that router in the middle with an unmanaged switch.

https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Splitter-Optimization-Unmanaged-TL-SG105/dp/B00A128S24/ref=sr_1_4?crid=27LCEVX1D3MKD&keywords=unmanaged+switch&qid=1564446575&s=gateway&sprefix=unmanaged+s%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-4

Modem -> Unmanaged Switch
Unmanaged switch -> Router A
Unmanaged switch -> Router B

Should be no issue with each of your routers pulling their own public IP. Two separate networks.

On an unmanaged switch it usually doesn't matter but make sure the switch support auto crossover. Usually if it is going to matter one port on the switch will be labelled 'uplink'.

To summarize: you can keep your router where it is if it's able to get link through that coax port. Make sure that Ethernet jack terminates to an uplinked switchport in your closet (TP Link is one of many decent and inexpensive gig switch brands. POE might be a useful feature to consider in a switch if you plan on adding wifi APs or IP phones later.

Also, if the Jack's are not well numbered or indicated, one of these ~$10 devices can prove to be very useful:
<https://www.amazon.com/Zoostliss-Network-Cable-Tester-Networking/dp/B06XZYXN63/>

Hope that helps