(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best aquarium filters

Too small for a bristlenose, and you want 6 neons (this tank is too small for them as well). I don't know much about kuhli loaches, but this is probably a tight fit for them too.

This is also a very, very heavy stocking for a 13.7 gallon aquarium. As this is your first tank, I highly suggest going for a small stock and getting a feel for it - solving problems with a low bioload is much easier, and will give you much needed practice for when things occur down the road.

I would recommend that you get solely a male betta for now. Your decor choice is good, and I applaud you for going with sand over gravel. It's much better, objectively.

If you can find them at your local fish store (LFS), pick up some Malaysian trumpet snails (MTS). They'll aerate the substrate and cycle waste into the sand, as well as eat uneaten food and decaying plant matter.

In terms of filtration, you could probably get away with an air pump and a sponge. If you have a fair chunk of money to dedicate to this aquarium, my filter of choice for tanks under 15 gallons is the ZooMed 501. If that is outside of your budget, an AquaClear 20 would be great. I would have the outflow disperse over your driftwood to avoid churning up your sand. If you need creative ideas, feel free to post here again and we can help you figure something out. The primary advantage of the canister is that it is dead silent, and comes with a spray bar which greatly helps to disperse the flow (bettas do not appreciate lots of flow in their environment).

I would do your damnedest to keep the tank out of sunlight, as this will contribute to rampant algae problems. It should have a dedicated light. You can purchase a clamp light and 6500K CFL bulb from home depot for about $15 total. Very wise investment, and this allows you to grow plants!

You need to keep the tank (for a Betta) at 78-80F. If your ambient temperature is not this, you will require a heater. My personal favourite heater for small aquariums are manufactured by Hydor. Aim for 50W for the set up. Here is a link to one.

There is a very good link regarding cycling in the sidebar. It can be found here.

While I do not know your water's composition, I would still recommend treating it with SeaChem Prime. This helps out with some heavy metals as well. While I am not sure if it will benefit you, it is fairly cheap and you'll get a ton of uses out of it for the cost. Hopefully someone with a similar water source to yours will chime in, as I myself am on municipal supply and must dechlorinate my water.

Earlier when I mentioned lighting, I mentioned plants. These are a great addition to your aquarium and your fish will appreciate them. For beginner plants, I would recommend looking into Anubias and Java Fern. They do not grow in substrate, but rather on decor and can be fastened to your driftwood with zip ties or string. They absorb nutrients from the water column, helping to clean your tank while providing refuge for your fish. I would also recommend a floating plant, as it will dim the lights and provide your betta with cover. Frogbit is great, and very cheap in my experience. It grows very well. None of these plants require you to do ANYTHING extra aside from get that light I mentioned. There are fancier alternatives, but they are not necessary for this set up with the above plants. I highly recommend setting your lights up on a timer and keeping them on for 8 hours a day. If you notice algae, reduce light.

I hope this helps. If you have anymore questions feel free to let me know. Really great of you to come and ask for advice BEFORE purchasing an animal, kudos to you.

Be sure to check out /r/bettafish and /r/plantedtank. Within you'll find lots of guides and extremely knowledgeable people. I would highly recommend reading the majority of links from the side bar in those two subreddits, as well as this one. There's a trove of information at your disposal. Here's a link to /r/Aquariums' wiki.

Finally, here's a care sheet specifically about Bettas!

Hopefully that wasn't too long winded for you. Best of luck in the hobby.

I'd be happy to chime in!

What are the dimensions of the 60 gallon. I had one that was 48"x15"x20", but in my experience there are some different 60 gallon dimensions out there.

>The main fish I want is an Electric Blue Johanni, so I just need to know which 2 other species can coexist with this fish and in which order they need to be added.

Lots of other mbuna work with Pseudotropheus Cyaneorhabdos "Maingano" (that's the proper scientific and it's proper hobby nickname-Electric Blue Johanni adds too much confusion), it really depends what colors and shapes you want in the tank. The only thing you'll want to stay clear of is other blue and black striped fish, which rules out most Melanochromis, and Pseudotropheus Johannii. The order that you add the fish is dependent on which fish you get and how you're going to cycle the tank as well as your fish budget. I'm a huge proponent of having a robust fishless cycle and then adding all your juveniles at once--far less headaches that way.

>I am also not sure on which substrate I need to use. Sand or crushed coral?

Either of those would be fine. I've used Pool Filter Sand as a cheap and attractive substrate for years, but it will keep your silicate level very high in the tank which is going to mean you'll always have diatoms. Some phosphate/silicate absorbing resins can help with that but never eliminate it. Crushed coral definitely works, but because it's so soft and irregular it's hard to keep clean and will break down and need to be replenished periodically. I personally am a fan of the fine grain Ecco complete cichlid sand. It's calcium based, but more regularly shaped. Either way, mbuna are going to like a nice sandy substrate to dig in, sift, and landscape. In the end it becomes a price point as you can get enough PFS for 10 bucks for your tank, but ecco complete will cost 60-80.

>Do I need to put anything under the substrate like an egg crate? I am going to be putting a lot of rocks in the tank.

I've used egg crate in tanks that are tall that I'm concerned about dropping rocks while i'm moving things around and cleaning, but the truth is as long as you build your hardscape correctly (bottom rocks directly on the glass, sand then added, and then other rocks on top) it's really only there as something that will make you feel a little better without really doing anything. It also is kind of ugly when your fish expose it. And they will. If you're nervous by nature it doesn't hurt to add it, but I find it to be an unnecessary expenditure.

And with mbuna you want a TON of rocks (not literally, but in my 110 i had nearly 300 lbs of real rocks mixed in with 150 dollars worth of cichlid stones--which I highly recommend if you're looking at extra decor options). Your initial instinct will be to make caves, but I find that if you just stack the rocks and try to make things look natural your fish will find plenty of caves. You're also going to have to break down your tank occasionally, so I don't recommend siliconing rocks together or falling in love with a layout.

Let's take a quick look at your wish list, a quick caveat--Amazon will have low prices a lot of the time, but most of the online pet stores will be able to beat their prices pretty handily and also offer free shipping if you're spending more than 50 dollars. I use Kensfish a lot because they are so dang cheap, but shop around, you'll be amazed at the money you can save!:

>Aquarium Tank Aeration Green Plastic Casing Bubble Air Stone 12" >Offered by uxcell. $5.25 1 0
>Lee's Sleek Airline Tubing, 25-Foot, Black $6.35 1 0
>Tetra 77855 Whisper Air Pump, 100-Gallon $21.22 1 0

If you like air bubbles, there's no reason to not have them, but if you're going to run air into the tank, instead of just a bubble wall, really consider a sponge filter or two for extra filtration (as well as having a cycled filter always handy for an emergency fry, hospital, or quarantine tank). You'll definitely want to look into a gang valve which allows you to power several air implements at once, and a check valve which will keep your aquarium from siphoning out your air hose and onto your floor if there's a air pump failure or a power outage.

>API Freshwater Master Test Kit $24.99 1 0
>Oakton EcoTestr pH 2 Waterproof pH Tester, 0.0 to 14.0 pH Range $51.29 1 0

The Master Kit is all you'll need (though having GH/KH is useful while starting out the tank--it won't get much use after you have fish in the tank. The EcoTestr isn't a bad product, but it's 50 dollars and the API kit comes with a pretty easy to read pH test...not sure why you'd want/need another kit especially for something like pH.

>Seachem Prime 500ml $12.02 1 0
>25 Foot - Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System $39.99 1 0

Both must haves for me and great choices

>Fluval 406 External Filter Offered by AquaCave, Inc. $189.98 1 0
>Penn Plax Cascade 1200 GPH Canister Filter Offered by One Way Pet. $117.86 1 0

So you want a canister, I can understand but a anything less than a 90 gallon I tend to run HOB power filters. The 406 is a very nice product, but you can get a much better deal for a different kind of canister than you'll pay for that right now. I would steer you away from the Cascade. I don't have personal experience with them, but that's because they have sort of a bad reputation with the people I know that have tried them. I'll use amazon for this.

API Filstar XP-L this filter is 158.99 right now, and it will outperform the 406 in GPH and media volume handily. It's not as pretty as the fluval, and the host attachments aren't as well built, but it's a workhorse.

I won't link, but also look at the eheim 2215 for your tank. Eheims are the BMWs of canister filters. For 100 bucks you get a filter that will out perform anything i've mentioned and do so for years and do it more quietly than any other canister. The drawbacks are it can be hard to prime, it has no media trays, and they're a pain to clean.

For a bargain entry you can find an Aquatop or SUnSun with UV sterilization for under 100. These filters aren't the most well made, but will work for years (though not as quietly as some of the others I've mentioned). They're cheap, but reliable. If eheim are BMWs, Aquatop/SunSun are Hyundais

A couple of things I"ve noticed you don't have yet:

• heater
  
• thermometer
  
• lighting/hood or glass top
  
  Hope that helped!
  
  edit: some formatting

That is a red eared slider. It is quite possibly the most popular pet turtle species. These turtles are popular because they're prolific and they look like little turtles, unfortunately in a few years that little turtle will have grown exponentially. Most of the time it's a parent who bought the turtle for a kid, kid loses interest, parent doesn't know what to do...

Do not release the turt. It would die in Toronto and even if it did not, environmentally if anyone releases a non indigenous species into the wild, although it sounds harmless enough there are large implications when it comes to OTHER reptile populations. This little turt could mate and create a bunch of other turts that eat up food sources etc...

1. Keep the turt as best you can
   
2. Find a home for the turt via craigslist or a rescue
   
   1A.
   
   A 10 gallon tank would be a great starter tank for a RES this size. 10 gallon tanks usually run about $10 at petsmart or petco so there is probably a similar cost up there
   
   1.B
   
   You will need two lights to run during the day:
   1 UVB fixture with a bulb
   
   and 1 heat lamp. Some people splurge and purchase heat lamp bulbs specifically made for reptiles, however I have found that using a household bulb provides the same amount of heat. User a bulb that the fixture can handle.
   
   1C.
   
   The turt will need a basking platform. There are super cool options but simple and efficient is the way to go if you're starting.
   
   1D.
   
   You will need a filter. Turtles poop a lot more than fish do so when you're shopping for filters always double the GPH needed to account for the extra nitrates.
   
   1E.
   
   You will need food. Every food is different and let me tell you from experience that you can spend hours researching what is best to feed your turtle...
   
   Protein:
   
   I have learned that omnivorious turtles such as a red eared slider do well if they are started with a protein rich diet and then transition into adulthood with an omnivorous diet.
   
   I would suggest doing the following: go to the grocery store and buy a small Salmon fillet. It may seem silly, but it will last you a very long time. Keep the Salmon in the freezer and feed the turt a few small strips (a serving size should be thought of as, if the turts head were empty, how much food could you fit in it). Make the strips small enough so that the turtle can swallow it.
   
   Feeding tip: Salmon or any other form of protein such as bloodworms, krill etc... can be quite messy because of the amount of oil in the meat. Many turtle keepers (me included) prefer to feed turtles outside of the tank in order to keep the living tank clean. get a small rubbermaid tub or something, make sure it's clean of course and fill it up with enough water for the turt to float around. feed the turt in that water, when you're done, discard the water and put the fat n happy turt back in the living tank. This method lowers the frequency of water changes and keeps the tank cleaner. Handling the turtle like this to feed is also helpful to make the turtle okay with being handled.
   
   Calcium:
   
   As you will read, reptiles need calcium in order to stay healthy. Snakes need calcium in the form of rat bones, bearded dragons eat crickets but turtles do best when supplemented with a cuttlebone. There are turtle specific cuttlebones but they're more expensive and the only real different is that they do not have the hard backing that the cuttlebones for birds have. All you have to do to remove the backing is toss it in a saucepan, boil it for a minute or so, let it cool and then that backing can peel off. This also softens up the cuttlebone some. It's not easy to get the backing off in one fell swoop, but turtles don't care if the cuttlebone is in one big piece or if it's in little white chunks. Calcium supplementation is vital for young turts just as the protein is. Once a week or so is good for calcium.
   
   I have rambled. I am passionate about reptiles so I tend to nerd out. Anyway. Please feel free to PM me with questions, I would really love to help in any way.
   
   Chad

I’m sorry to say the above comments are right. Common goldfish get over 1 foot in length and are incredibly messy fish. They really belong in a pond, but you could theoretically keep one in 75 gallon (but a 90 gallon is the same footprint with a little more height, offering more water and therefore easier to keep clean). Really, they should have a tank that is at least 6 foot long and 18 inches wide, but a 75 (4 feet and 18 inches wide) would be the bare minimum. Anything narrower and the fish will have trouble turning around as goldfish get over 12-14 inches long if they are healthy. They will stay smaller if their growth is stunted, but this is extremely unhealthy for them and results in a much shorter lifespan. With a 75 or 90 gallon, be prepared to do 30-50% waterchanges every week (which should be pretty easy with a system like the python. You won’t need a heater, but you will need a great filter. I recommend a canister filter, but if that is out of your price range two of these or better yet two of these will work well. Goldfish are plant eaters so you won’t have to worry about plants, so you can get whatever light you like/what’s cheapest. Big tanks are expensive, but you can often find them used along with the stands (which saves a ton of money). You can also get a 75 gallon half off from Petco during the dollar-per-gallon sale, and then build your own stand (tons of plans online). For substrate, I would buy pool filter sand (very cheap and great for goldfish, it can’t get stuck in their mouths like gravel and it looks awesome, it’s easy to keep clean too). There are a lot of ways to cut costs, especially with a goldfish tank that doesn’t need a filter or fancy light. Feel free to ask any questions, and please do some research on the nitrogen cycle (introduction ) it’s the most important thing you can possibly learn as a new fishkeeper! You will need a test kit too, to test your water. Don’t bother with test strips as they are very inaccurate, go ahead and get this. If you want to cycle the tank quickly and without a hassle, this is the only one that really works. Welcome to the wonderful world of fishkeeping! Best of luck with your pet! Goldfish are lots of fun.


Edit: petsmart has a 75 gallon tank with stand, lid, and light for half off today for Black Friday (at $249 a screaming deal for a brand new tank!!) if you are interested.

Tank: Looks like they have a newer version of my tank: https://www.innovative-marine.com/product-page/nuvo-fusion-peninsula-14-gallon

Skimmer: https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Internal-Protein-30-Gallon/dp/B0028BPRMA

Heater (50W): https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/cobalt-neo-therm-submersible-heater.html a note on this, I've used the cheaper Aqueon/Tetra heaters and I found that they fluctuated. Tank would feel like warm bathwater and then cool down significantly, rinse & repeat- that's why I'd recommend spending a little extra for a good heater- those fluctuations will piss corals off.

Lighting: anything works for fish, but if you wanna go into corals in the future, you'll need a dedicated reef light. A good, cheaper option is AI Prime: https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/prime-16-hd-led-reef-light-white-body-aqua-illumination.html. I personally use a Kessil 160E, it's in the middle of the pack, sort of.

Flow: Wavemakers are cool, but unnecessary until you get corals. I'd get something cheap, like a Jabaeo. If you want high-end, Ecotech MP10. The stock return pump that comes with the tank is fine, but if you want to upgrade it, Sicce makes one.

Filtration: Have a bag of biomedia (brand is irrelevant, but I use MarinePure), and buy a packet of ChemiPure Blue nano: https://www.amazon.com/Boyd-Chemi-Pure-Blue-Nano-Aquarium/dp/B00VXIA3XM. Chemipure is basically super gucci carbon; carbon is good to have on hand for a reef, as it absorbs coral toxins and keeps everything happy.

Sand: Sand is personal preference. They have live sand and dry sand; I prefer dry sand, as it's cleaner. Live sand will make your tank look like milk for the first three days. This is the sand I chose: https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/aragonite-fiji-pink-dry-sand-40lbs-caribsea.html

Live rock: This stuff is hard to come by now. A lot of reef stores will have a vat of "live rock," but it'll mostly be white and pretty devoid of life. Back in the day, they'd ship rock straight from the ocean and it'd be covered in sponges, algaes, tunicates, all kinds of cool stuff- I loved this stuff for the little critters. However, you could also get pests from it, but that was a sacrifice I was willing to make. SO, I'd recommend that route if you can. It's kinda expensive, but this dude in Tampa can hook you up: https://tbsaltwater.com/. Just tell him the tank size and what you want.

If you don't wanna understandably go through all that hassle, get the LFS live rock and some bottled bacteria (I like Fritz TurboStart). Now, since that rock is mostly "white" and therefor uncolonized, it'll go through ugly phases, covered in icky types of algae. That'll last for a few months; eventually it'll all turn brown/green/purple and look natural though. If you get the real live rock from Florida, it already has that so you kinda skip the ugliness.

Either route you take, you could probably add fish after a week of setting up the tank, assuming it's cycled.

I'd recommend checking out BulkReefSupply on Youtube. They have a series, BRS 52 Weeks of Reefing, that's excellent for noobs. You'll learn a lot!

So, I have a standard 20 long. For circulation I run a Polario 10ml. It's a little overkill, and a 7ml would probably be more ideal, but I love the circulation throughout the tank and that its current reverses every 20 seconds to simulate the natural ebb and flow of the ocean. My corals have responded well to the increased and random flow, and the fish dno't mind it either. In addition, the one time I had need of their customer service, they were excellent and prompt. I recommend them to everyone looking for a new circulation pump

I custom built my sump from acrylic because I had a limited space for it, but it holds about 9 gallons total. I keep 7 lbs of live rock rubble in my first chamber, along with an Aquaticlife 115 protein skimmer. The skimmer isn't too bad. I wish it would produce less liquid and more solid skimmate, but it does create a pretty good amount of dark water over a few days, so I've been happy with it. I have a chaeto chamber next which also houses a Deep Blue UV Sterilizer. It's definitely helped slow down how fast algae grows on the tank walls. I bought it to see if it would help slow down the bryposis I've had the gross displeasure of dealing with. I would buy it again.

I put a 6 inch DSB in the next chamber, but I'm not convinced it ever set up properly. It's still a work in progress. Finally, I have a Marineland NJ1100 return pump, and some random heater stick I found lying around. The pump isn't bad, but I might choose something a little more powerful should I ever need to replace it. All in all I'm pretty happy with the setup.

Edit: I also use the Kent 2-Part Nano Reef supplement. I definitely notice a large difference in growth rates and vibrancy when I slack off for a while.

Edit Edit: Oh, and I have assorted corals including Blastos, Montis, Zoas, Some Ricordea, Digitata, Trumpets, plus others I just don't know the names of. There's also a Mini-Maxi Carpet Anemone, Black Blenny, Scooter Blenny, Red-Lined Cardinal, and a Yasha Goby/Tiger Pistol pair. I do a 10% to 20% water change each week to help replenish trace minerals. It would all be phenomenal if it weren't for the bryopsis. But, that's on it's way out too.

Supplies:

UVA/UVB Bulb and a basking light for warmth. [This combo bulb runs around $45.] (https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-PowerSun-Mercury-Vapor/dp/B0002AQDJK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493336319&sr=8-2&keywords=zoomed+uva+uvb) Replace every 6-10 months.

A lamp to put it in. This one runs around $25.

Depending on your set-up, you may need a stand. Remember that the bulb is not effective if placed over glass. This stand runs around $25.


Depending on what kind of turtle you get your habitat can range in size (and cost). Some small breed turtles will get by in a 40g-55g habitat. If you get an aquarium it's important to get a sturdy stand that is level. An aquarium that is not level will run the risk of stressing the seams and "bowing". Leading to a leak or break.

Approximate cost of a habitat for a fully grown 5" turtle:
Could run you $155.00 pre-tax during $1/gallon sale with this stand and aquarium.
Or you could spend closer to $70 on a huge 110g stock tank that might be uglier, but you have way more room and could adopt a RES in need of a home. Or you could just have a super over sized habitat for a small turtle. Here's 50g one with different dimensions for a similar price.

Don't forget your canister filter! This one cost me $109.99 last year and has been an absolute dream. Your filter should be rated for twice the aquarium size. I have a 40g with a common musk adult. The canister is rated for a little over 90 so it works well for me. You can shop around.

You can price watch most items on amazon using camelcamelcamel.com to get the best deals for the most part.

You will also want a basking dock. These can vary in price largely because you can make your own for low cost or buy them for anywhere from $20-$60. I made my own using aquarium decorations so it wasn't free but I liked how it worked out.

So let's say all brand new items:
Stand and aquarium at Petco while on sale: $155.
Filter: $110
Bulb + lamp + stand: $95
Dock: $20

We're up to $380 (minus any taxes), minus purchasing a turtle, minus any food or other decorations you may want to purchase.

Stock tank instead of stand? Around $295 instead of $380.

My turtle is a common musk. Georgie is 19 years old this year. I would not be surprised if I have children in high school while Georgie is still alive. Captive kept turtles can live up to 4 decades and potentially longer.

So some big things to remember are: You're going to care for this turtle longer than you should care for your own children. You're going to be responsible for weekly/bi-monthly aquarium maintenance. You're going to still be spending money through out the year to care for your turtle. You will need space. If you're 17 and thinking of going off to college next year don't expect to be able to take your turtle with you and don't expect your parents to care for it properly.

A turtle should be considered a life long commitment. It is very difficult to rehome turtles properly and ensure their care with their new owner.

Good luck and check out Austin's Turtle Page for some turtle species if you live in America. That way you can get an idea for size and types of turtles and what kind of habitats they prefer.

Read-up and good luck!

I use both, as both have their own benefits/drawbacks when it comes to filtration & tank cycling. I personally try to cram as much of both material as I can into each of my filters, in order to increase beneficial bacteria surface area. Having a large amount of BB allows for the tank to remain cycled more easily, which protects your inhabitants from dangerous nitrate & ammonia levels. Here’s a detailed article discussing different types of filters & media that I thought might help.

I also use Purigen in my 40gal breeder, & have had a great time with it. I use it especially in my 40gal bc I have large piece of driftwood in their that leech tannins. And due to the shrimp/guppy population in there, there’s a lot of food/poop junk being thrown around, so I use the Purigen to help deal with some of the excess nitrates.

Sponges are very handy, as they double as both mechanical & biological filtration. Oftentimes, the terms “sponges” & “foam” get used interchangeably. Although it may seem a bit confusing, they are usually referring to the same thing. There are varying kinds of sponges/foam, & they are differentiated by the size/amount of holes they have, which is known as the Pores Per Inch (PPI). Finer sponges/provide more surface area for the BB to colonize, but can clog more quickly, increasing the frequency in which you have to service your filters. Coarser sponges/foam won’t clog as easily, but might not provide as much filtration, has less surface area for the BB, & may allow small shrimp/fry to get sucked into the filter intake.

>As a side note, I use & highly recommend Poret Foam Swiss Tropicals. It’s specifically meant to be used in the aquatic hobby, has uniform cell sizes, & is backed by lots of research. You can read his research here.

Ceramic filter media is very versatile & lasts a long time. Hobbyists often use ceramic media, since it will last pretty much forever, retains its form, & is easily moved from tank to tank. However, it provides little to no mechanical filtration, as it’s just meant to be a home for the BB. That’s not all that bad though, as it means that there will never be a “bottleneck” point in your filtration process as it gets gunked up. Having too many layers of fine filter foam/polishing pads can cause bottlenecks as they collect stuff, reducing your filter’s filtration capacity, & making you have to clean it more often. A real benefit of ceramic media is the ease in which you can “seed” future tanks—you can take some of the ceramic media & put it into new filtration systems in order to jumpstart the BB growth there. Sponges will also lose their shape & effectiveness over time as you squeeze them, while ceramic media will always retain its shape.

Ideally, you would want the order of your media to go from coarser to finer as the water passes through your filter. For example, this is the order I have of media in my AquaClear 75 for my 40gal tank:

• AquaClear Sponge (coarse) ⇒ 1" Thick Layer of Poret Foam (45 ppi, fine) ⇒ Polishing Pad (100 ppi, extra fine) ⇒ Purigen (chemical filtration) ⇒ Eheim Substrat Pro (sintered glass, biological media).
  
  I apologize for the loooong post, & hope I was able to help somehow! 😅 Good luck, & don’t be afraid to ask questions! 🍀

This is my favourite HOB filter. I have one in my 27g tank. I've had pretty much every kind of HOB filter and this is the best IMO. There is lots of room for to shove extra filter media in there. It also has this sort of "bridge" thing as it's pouring into the water so it makes it a little quieter.

You could do a dwarf puffer tank for a 20g. You could have 3 or 4. They are really small and full of personality. But you wouldn't be able to have any other fish/inverts in there. They are meat eaters and will try to eat anything they can.

I would probably do a community tank. That way you can have a range of fish. You could get a group of cories going (they like to be kept in groups, 6 is good) and get some tetras (again, groups 6+. My fav are cardinal tetras), guppies (careful to only get males unless you want babies every month), rasboras are really pretty too.

I'm thinking loaches (at least the ones I know of, there could be small ones) will be too large for a 20g tank.

Shrimp are great too. Just obviously make sure you don't have fish in there that will eat them. I think all of the fish I mentioned will leave them alone.

I am always a fan of a planted tank. There are many easy plants that you can get. This site has tons of plants and tells you a little about them, you can even search by easy, low-light plants.

As far as the hood, personally I don't care for hoods. I think it's a little bit of a dated look. I like the flat glass tops like these and they are also very easy to take off when doing maintenance. But that is your own personally opinion of what you want to have up there.

As far as maintenance is concerned, I do weekly water changes. One week I'll just change out some water (usually 25-30%). Next week I'll do some gravel vacuuming. 3rd week I'll finish the gravel vac. It's not a good idea to clean all of the gravel at once, there is a lot of beneficial bacteria in the gravel and if you clean it all at once you risk sending your tank into a mini cycle as the bacteria replenishes itself.

One last thing. With filters, I never keep the carbon cartridge in the filter. I have clean water up here so there is no need for it. I always keep one on hand just in case (they are great for taking medications out of your tank, but I never use medications; there's usually a better, natural way to fix diseases). The instruction box will tell you to change it out every month. This is a huge waste of money and every time you throw out that much filter media you will most likely send your tank into a mini cycle. What I do in all of my tanks (I have 4) is take the carbon out and jam the filters full of filter floss. It comes in big rolls that costs a couple dollars, and will last you forever. Once it's in there you don't ever need to take it out, until it is literally falling apart. If you find that water isn't really getting through because it's too gunky, take it out and rinse it in either tank water that you have taken out during cleaning, or in treated new water (prime is the best dechlorinator). Don't rinse it in regular untreated water or you will kill all of the good bacteria.


Hopefully all of this is helpful. I have a tendency to go a little over board and give way too much info. But it's good to know lots of info :) Good luck!

Yeah, so I would definitely go with a lot of excess filtration. I love my [Fluval 306] and between that and the biowheel I feel it is sufficient. I would also make sure to get a test kit to monitor the chemical changes of the water. With two fish that have a high bioload, it may be tough to figure out how often to change water. That said, I wouldn't do daily water changes. I was doing probably 20% 2x-3x a week and it seemed to work well.

I like the sand substrate and think it's pretty good for the oscars and the plecos. I know my pleco will sort of dig in the sand / fan out areas that he likes to hang out in and Fish-sticks, well he just likes to think he's a bulldozer and will pile sand up. Driftwood is extremely good for the pleco, just make sure that it is anchored well. Honestly, I wouldn't go with rock and if you do not too much. You're going to want to ensure that you get as much usable water volume in the tank as possible and big rocks will displace a fair amount and thus decrease this value and subsequently will have a detrimental effect on the water chemistry with two big fish. I like the fake plants I have; it allows for Fish-sticks to move them around as he sees fit to make his own little territories / nests that he sleeps in and are not heavy enough to cause damage to the tank if he moves them. Actually that's the other thing about rocks- Oscars are insanely strong and can and will try to move whatever they can. If the rock isn't heavy enough it can easily cause some damage to the glass. Having had a different 55 gal tank break on me previously (not related to that) I know I don't want to risk that again and so forwent the rocks.

Yeah, I just drop in an algae wafer every couple of days. The driftwood is also good for pleco digestion if I recall correctly. Just make sure that they do get fed, otherwise they can start sucking on the slime on the Oscar, and once that starts it's not good.

As for pH, I believe it's fairly neutral. It's not like african cichlids. I am fine just using my tap water from my well and using Prime.

Any other questions let me know

Alright...time to start typing out this monster.

Ive been reading guides and stuff, but i have a terrible memory when reading things, and theres some stuff i want to double check, etc.

Im looking to set up my old 29 gal tank from when i was a kid (its been empty for 10+ years). My goal is to do a planted tank with primarily tetras and shrimp...maybe a pleco and perhaps another type of schooling fish.

I probably wont be able to start cycling for ~2 weeks or so, though by the time i buy stuff on amazon, etc thats probably a decent timetable.

This light was suggested to me by another user. Should be sufficient for growing plants in a low tech system, right?

Ive seen various numbers for how 'oversized' a filter should be. Right now im kinda looking at these two (1) (2). Any comments on brand? It looks like i can get either one in bigger/smaller sizes. 400gph seems like it might be a bit overkill...but is 250 too low?

Ive read that often the agitation in the surface water by the filter is enough to provide sufficient gasses to the plants/fish...do you think that ill be true in a low tech tank? Would an aerator help? I dont think i'll mind having bubbles coming up in the background if it will, but am i overthinking this?



I wish i had saved more links on substrate and sand and all. Any recommendations for substrate for plants? Would probably like black stuff. I think this is the one i had read about being good?

Thinking about doing a bit of gravel in the tank, but i'd also like to do some sand. Maybe something like 2/3 sand (maybe a couple different types?) and then the rest gravel? Thoughts/concerns?

I thought i had read somewhere that people often use blasting sand (rinsed well)....anyone have comments on that? I could probably get some for cheap from work, though im not sure i want dark sand...


Best place to get a larger piece of driftwood? Ive looked around online a bit and have seen a ton of different sites and whatever, but was wondering if anyone had a suggestion for where to go. Im probably going to want one big piece, and then i can get smaller pieces from wherever.


I assume when im doing water changes and stuff im going to want to bypass our water softener? Our water is supposed to be pretty hard, do i want to maybe mix softened with unsoftened? (ive seen a lot of stuff about adding minerals to pure RO water, but havent seen much on softeners)




Im sure ill think of more, but this should at least be a good start...

Edit: Best place to get rocks and stuff? I'd like a couple for a natural look, im just not sure where to get them. I could get some red granite around here, but im not sure how that'd work, and it seems like it'd be really heavy...?

We all start out somewhere and good on you for learning and taking steps to improve it! :)

I think /u/SweetMamaKaty covered most of your bases when it comes to tank size and everything but you may want to check out Solid Gold on youtube for other guides and maybe it will spark a question you haven't thought of.

Two things when you're setting up your new tank though: avoid gravel and think about getting a canister filter. So first, gravel is kind of sucky for a few reasons that I'm sure you've noticed like their poo and food settling down in there and being awkward to clean and secondly, because they can try to eat it and choke. I'm still not sure how common the second issue is but a nice sand bottom of bare bottom is so much easier to clean. Secondly, canister filters are amazing. I personally bought a SunSun and love it. Its a bit pricier than a hang on the back filter but I felt it was worth it when I upgraded and the Sunsun is a good budget canister filter.

Its also a bit harder to guess goldfish's age simply because they could be a bit stunted and what not. If you've had them for almost a year, they're probably not the size they're supposed to be (really no judgement. its a common mistake and I don't think anyone here will fault you for it). But they look like two commons to me but I deal with mostly fancies and not too up and up on the single tails. They're really cute and lucky to have someone who cares enough to do their research :)

No no no, don't add a pleco. They are bad for goldfish as they find their slime coat quite tasty. Plus, goldies are cold water and basically every other fish type is warm water. With the shrimp and crayfish you are just going to be throwing your money away, they will die pretty quickly in a goldfish tank. It's a common misconception that fish like Cory's or Pleco's eat poop, but Cory's eat what the other fish miss that floats to the bottom and Pleco's eat algae and plants. You WILL get an algae bloom eventually, don't go buy a pleco, just work on scrubbing it off and taking care with water changes because pleco's are hard to take care of properly and don't belong with goldfish.

Add your second filter right now, and if you can, get some cycled filter media out of your current one to put into the new one, to help get the bacteria growing properly. That EX70 is definitely not big enough. You are going to need to be cycling 300+ gallons an hour, so you are probably going to need to get a third one or just invest in something in the 110 size or larger. Seriously, goldfish are a mess in small tanks. You might get something like the Quick Vac to help get the poop out in between water changes. I love my cleaner, it really helps (I do have a pleco, he's such a poop machine, I have to clean out his home a few times a week.)

I am going to fish store today to get new test strips for my water. Temp is between 74-80. Salinity is good on my Oceanometer but Ive been told to get a refractometer as well. The light gets turned on for about 6 hour after I get home from work. I leave it off when Im at work. I was told to do this to prevent bad algae growth. Im feeding them once a day but after reading I found out to feed every 2-3 days instead.

He told me to change like 30% of the water once a month. He gave me saltwater that was purchased from a fish store and treated tap water. Other than than checking the salinity and making sure the water has been treated, I dont know much about changes.

The pink algae grows only on the live rock and the glass. It looks alot like your picture so im going to assume is coralline algae. I can get a picture later though.

The filter is a Whisper Twenty Power Filter. The insides have like two drop in filter looking parts. He changed those before giving me the tank and gave me extra filters.

Filter: http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Power-Filter-20-Gallon/dp/B0002DHY4K


There are two living things growing off of the rock but I dont know what they are. One is about 2 inches long, tubular, white, and has a bristled fanned top. It retracts into hiding if bothered. It is similar to This but grows off of the live rock not out of the sand. The other is too small for me to describe accurately but it does move about and seems to be very alive.


My book gets here today so Im hoping that will answer some of my questions as well and help me provide the right environment.


Thanks for the help!

For small display tanks, my favorite is to use a small canister filter.

I personally have a Zoomed 511 but there are starting to be more and more options on the market:

• Finnex PX-360
  
  
• Zoomed 501 or 511 (also sold as Turtle Clean)
  
  
• TOM Aquarium Rapids Mini Canister
  
  Even the smaller Eheim Classics (I think the 2211 or the 2213) would work.
  
  For your water, make sure you use something to make it aquarium safe before adding it into your tank. My favorite is Seachem Prime, and the general consensus is that it's the best there is.
  
  Your little RCS should breed as long as you give them stable water conditions. The babies are also extremely small. One day you'll look over and notice that you have tons of shrimp out of nowhere. It's also a possibility that you have all males or all females (it happens!).
  
  As far as water changes, with that low of a bioload a good schedule would be to change something like 2 gallons once every two weeks.
  
  

If you don't want to go the canister filter method (which I highly recommend) I would go with an aquaclear. They're much better than these, and you can put whatever media you want in there so it's much more versatile than these. I had the penguin 350 and it's ok, but an aquaclear 110 would be your best bet. It's more expensive than these but far far far far better.

http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-110-Aquarium-Power-Filter/dp/B000260FV6

However, like I said, canister is the way to go. I use one of these on my tank and it's amazing. I used to use ehiems, but these are much cheaper and work just as well http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-302-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00892EN22/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1426534978&sr=1-3&keywords=sunsun+canister+filter

AquaClear 110 Hang on back filter issue: Water outlet pressure continually decreases

I've noticed a recent issue with my Fluval HOB filter I've had running for a little over a year. The water outlet pressure is good for a couple days then slows down to a trickle. I have a prefilter that I clean every time I notice it slow down but the frequency I have to clean it is abnormal. I've taken the filter apart, made sure the impeller is clean (it was slick with algae), and double checked the well cover is set properly - the flow rate is still decreasing. This is a sanity check - help.

LINK for filter

LINK for help forum I read

Thank you

I would suggest and a penguin filter. Or any filter with a Bio wheel. Here is why. On Amazon Penguin 100B for up to 20 gallons.

I wouldn't get too big of a filter for it, as Betta's natural environment are the still waters of the rice patties. When there is lots of water flow, there fins act as a sail and they get pushed around the tank. When this happens they will either clamp there fins to prevent the water from carrying them away, or they will find a corner or the bottom where its not as turbulent, and hang out there. either way, they wont be showing off. Which is usually the reason people get bettas. For there beauty.
As far as the lighting for plants go, Slow growing plants like crypts are what your going to want, as you don't have any co2 injection going on, or High intensity lighting. Here is a great list of plants. look at the ones that fit the size of your tank (up to 16" or 40cm) I hope some of this was helpful.

No problem, it was my planned set up until my betta moved in. :c

I'd recommend something more like an aquaclear and a sponge on the end. Or if you really like canisters and have the money to spend I'm in love with these. Just put in whatever media you like (it comes with the basics of ceramic rings, sponge, and carbon) and then you secure one of these to the intake. Just make sure to get the pre filter sponge in person, it's cheaper at petco I believe.

If none of those I'd suggest a sponge filter. It's easier to keep baby shrimp alive and not getting sucked into the filter than an in tank filter. Especially if some are occasionally getting nabbed.

I recommend upgrading your filter. Those whisper filters are pretty crappy IMO mostly due to the cartridge system they use. Pretty much everyone loves aquaclear filters and I'm a fan of my C2.

Unless your Ph is crazy high (8+) I wouldn't mess with it. A stable Ph is more important than a "proper" Ph in most cases.

Good Luck!

SunSun is the best value for money, but the Fluval FX5 or FX6 is probably the best turtle filter on the market. Keep an eye on Craigslist and you may find a used one for a much more reasonable price than new. The best trick (and the trick I used) is to find someone selling a tank with everything included, and then convince them to just sell you the filter.

Carbon basically does nothing but cost money. UV sterilizers or Purigen should help.

You would be better served putting biomedia where the carbon is now. This is a good biomedia that fits easily in HOB, but you can probably find cheaper alternatives, just giving one I knew about.

Grech (SUNSUN) GW-304B or the API XP-L are the best options in your budget.

For an even cheaper option, SUNSUN HW-302B. Smaller than the GW-304B and less flow, but still enough for a well stocked 55g.

I have one of the GW-304B models, and three HW-302B models. They're by far the best bang for your buck filters out there. Just depends on how much flow you want between the two. A friend of mine has an API XP-L (They used to be called Rena XP3 - I believe API's parent company purchased Rena).

First-timer in over his head here. Could use an assist with setup. The ultimate goal is setting up something my (soon-to-be) 2 year old daughter will enjoy watching.

Planning on purchasing:

Tank & Stand: Aqueon 45G tank ensemble - $250

Light: LED - Included with tank

Filter: MarineLand Penguin 200 Power Wheel - $21

Heater: Orlushy Submersible Aquarium Heater 150W - $18

Python: Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System - $40, 24 inch adapter - $10, [hook] (https://smile.amazon.com/Python-Spill-Aquarium-Gravel-24-Inch/dp/B004PBHX4G/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2/146-3053739-1242457?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004PBHX4G&pd_rd_r=42a7c2bc-877d-414d-b0c9-2960fa629e40&pd_rd_w=q7tkK&pd_rd_wg=fjx36&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW&psc=1&refRID=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW) - $20, and this adapter for my non-threaded faucet - $12

Conditioner: [API Water Conditioner] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $7

Bacteria: [API Quick Start] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $4

Test Kits: [API 5-in-1 Test Strips] (https://smile.amazon.com/5-IN-1-AQ-Test-Strips-100CT/dp/B077YS7Y4Y/ref=sr_1_3?crid=VPPBFJ1NJSMG&keywords=api%2Btest%2Bkit&qid=1567987538&s=gateway&sprefix=api%2Btest%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-3&th=1) - $26

That takes me up to $408. That leaves me about $100-150 in the budget my wife gave me to get decorations and the fish themselves. (It was supposed to be $500, but we always go slightly over budget)

Any recommendations on large and colorful fish that could attract and keep a toddler's attention? Preferably peaceful.

Any other recommended tweaks to the build? I haven't purchased anything yet, so I'm willing to completely scrap this and start over if somebody has a better idea of how to use the money.

I don't have the 20 but I have an Aquaclear 50 on my 20 long and I have a Fluval 70 which is meant to be the same as the Aquaclear. They both have the pointed intake. And both of these fit the Fluval prefliter sponge that comes in that little box for the Fluval Edge. The suction keeps it on the 70, when I turn it off and the waterline drops, it can fall off and you just have to turn it on again for the suction to hold it in place. I think this is because it's a little bigger or it could just be that this one looks like I may need to replace it soon, it's been on a while.

I think the reason i didn't go with the C2 (or whatever size it was ) when I was looking for/at the 50 was the shape of the filter box. I wanted to use my own filter media and I liked the large square shape of the Aquaclear that had greater flexibility.

I strongly recommend a Hydor 350 or 450. Very easy to clean, maintain, and prime. The tubing is also pretty standard, so modding the inlet/output pipes or adding an in-line heater or CO2 reactor are really easy

Don't know if you got equipment yet but I started with a 55 hex. I only switched to rectangular 55 because the other half found a great deal for us.
I use a fluvial e series heater they are much cheaper on amazon then what the retail stores sell them at. I believe 200 watt is what I use for 55 gallons. I use this filter it is completely silent http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Hw302-264GPH-Canister-Filter/dp/B00MGX7JXA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1457790868&sr=8-2&keywords=sunsun+canister+filter I just used the stuff that came with it. I switch out the carbon once a month and one filter pad once a month. I also get rid of gunk if there is any in there.
Chromies school and stay towards the top of the tank, trying to have levels in my hex is why I have those fish. They are fun to watch.

I just got this heater for my 7gallon cube. It’s only been a few days, but it’s so small and looks great in the tank! There’s also a 50w version. If you get it though, don’t make the mistake I did - there’s a sticker on the thermostat of the heater indicating its voltage. I didn’t realise it was a sticker and put it in my tank, and well, the sticker started to dissolve and there were little strands of adhesive floating all up in that water. Luckily there’s nothing else in there at the moment. But I was kicking myself as I did a rather annoying clean out.

I’ll be doing a Walstad, so I won’t have a filter to worry about, but you could think about strategically hiding a small sponge filter in with some plants or decor, using a corner mattenfilter, or using a nano canister filter (with or without lily pipes). I see this canister mentioned a lot, but I haven’t used it myself. I think SunSun also makes a nano canister which I see mentioned a lot too.

As far as internal filters are concerned, it sounds like they can be hit or miss. Unless you find one that you really like the look of, I’d try to find a canister filter first. :)



Edits: it’s late. I can’t type.

Sorry for the crazy-late reply, but better late than never I suppose.
You'll definitely need a protein skimmer (I recommend the Bak Pak 2R+). You can also increase the effectiveness of your protein skimmer with a wooden airstone placed at the bottom of the bubble-area. One other neat trick you can do is to put a very slowly siphoning airline tube in your collection cup, so if you forget to empty it the tank will continue to function properly. A sump is not necessary, but a nice canister filter would be preferable... I recommend the Fluval 306, although Eheim is another good brand (my 15 year old Eheim 2235 is still working as a filter for my 20 gallon tank). Honestly, a lot of people think marine aquaria are hard to keep, but I've had the opposite experience. My tank has numerous corals (including a multi-month old Goniopora) and even with the messiness of my cuttlefish I've never had a tank crash.

There are a few points to keeping cuttlefish:

• Don't feed them fiddler crabs - the crabs will pinch their tentacles
  
• Fish are a no-go; they'll end up eating the cuttlefish or vice versa
  
• Get multiple cuttlefish - if you're going to the trouble of keeping them you might as well, and they get lonely without company

Oh man, I'm not in lab anymore but I believe we're using the Tetra Whisper Power Filter. I had to rubber band a small net at the inflow since ours don't have that plastic filter thing in the image.

I cleaned the filter itself (the fluffy stuff in the black box) with just normal tap water, brushing away the yellowish gunk with normal gloved hands until it looked fairly clean. I wasn't sure how to clean them properly to begin with.

Edit: Actually, the fish don't seem to find the food very well. There are lots of remains at the bottom, although they do see me in my bright blue shirt. After I dropped food in I just kind of walked towards the food and they followed, after bumping in the food, and feasted.

Sponge filters are GREAT! I'm never going back to other kinds of filters for bettas.

Here's the ones I'd recommend:

• for 5.5g - 10g (I have this one in my 5.5g): https://www.amazon.com/Powkoo-Double-Biochemical-Aquarium-Gallons/dp/B01M3VALFU/
  
  • Here's preview of mine: https://i.imgur.com/x7VLj4l.mp4 AND https://i.imgur.com/ty9t3RJ.mp4
    
• for 10g - 30g (max, even though it says up to 40g, I'd say 30's pushing it): https://www.amazon.com/Hygger-Aquarium-Sponges-Submersible-Salt-Water/dp/B07RFL4JMM
  
• 15g - 40g (though it says up to 55g I'd still say that's pushing it): https://www.amazon.com/Hygger-Aquarium-Sponges-Submersible-Salt-Water/dp/B07RKT6QPV/
  
• If you got any tank larger than that, probably double up on them, putting one at each end of the tank (you can easily daisy-chain multiple sponge filters together to one single air pump, as long as said airpump is strong enough for the size of the tank: 40g tank with an airpump designed to work for a 40g tank)

It is up to you what you want to do but a tank this size definitely at least needs a filter. To put things in perspective for you, on my 20 gallon tall I run this Ehiem 2215 Canister Filter. My tank also houses 8 female bettas and a ton of other life but this should illustrate how much variance can be in a tank this size. Even if you don't want to get a savage filter like the one I run you at least need to get either a massive sponge filter or a hang on back filter like this one

I know some advice on here would lead you to believe that no current is the best current in a Betta tank but in a tank this size, as long as they have places they can swim out of the current then a current is not only no problem, but is beneficial as you need sufficient water circulation.

Depending on what you decide to decorate with, you will also need a light.

Here is my 20 gallon tall: https://i.imgur.com/Qd2Vha0.jpg

This sounds like a nightmare!! Why would you get the axolotls without a cycled tank?? That is very hard on those lil doods when they’re so little! I think they’ll make it, but run to the store and buy Seachem Prime and double dose your water to condition and help establish the tank quicker. If you have a 20 Gallon with 3 Axos in it, you HAVE to get more than a sponge filter, get a HOB filter meant for 20 Gallon, they’re literally like $30

Amazon Link

Definitely daily 50% water change until you get a filter setup.

Cool! Thanks for the quick response :) yep was planning to upgrade. Currently looking at the 40 gallon of

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002AQXTA/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1449072880&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165&keywords=canister+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=515qT1uNwXL&ref=plSrch&th=0

Does anyone use this filter? The reviews look good.

Edit: fixed link added some text.

I'm not sure that you can get a quality canister filter under $60 for that size of tank?

I have an Eheim Classic and it's awesome. Extremely quiet, works great, easy to use, and has been working great for 4 years now. I've been using the 92 gallon version with a 40 gallon tank for a RES (you really want to double up the rating for turtles). I know it's almost double your budget but I'd highly recommend it. Maybe you could get away with the 66 gallon version if your turtle is smaller though.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQXV8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Howdy!

I need some advice from you knowledgeable folks. I have a 10 Gallon Aquarium that I've had for about two years now, everything is runnign smoot, my fish are happy and lively, and even recognize me when I walk into a room and know when to expect food.

The aquarium came with a Marineland Penguin 100 Filter, which worked fine until it stopped working, and I went to Petsmart and bought the exact same model a few months back, except this new one is extremely noisy. I'm wanting to purchase a new one, and maybe even a little pump to replace a static decoration with a little bubbly one, but as I'm not very knowledeable of aquarium equipment, I was hoping I could get some recommendations, or maybe what brands to look for, as far as a good filter that is also quiet. At this point, I'd rather pay a little extra for something that works well and is quiet, as the noise the filter pump currently makes can be heard from the other side of the house and is driving me insane.

Thank you folks in advance!

Canister filters may be more expensive than HOB filters, but they're well worth the price. My experience comes from using a Fluval 306 on a 40 gallon tank.

• The filter is near zero maintenance. I only have to clean mine once a month thanks to the large baskets and filter media. Canisters are also easier to clean because they don't have small parts.
  
• My canister filter is 100% silent. I don't mean it's very quiet. I mean it's completely silent.
  
• The impeller has never jammed on me. I've owned four different HOB filters before switching to a canister, and I always had problems with the impellers becoming jammed. Again, the bigger parts on a canister means a tiny bit of grit or algae doesn't jam up the parts or restrict water flow.
  
• Canister filters are practically invisible. Instead of having a big, bulky, and ugly filter hanging on the back of your tank, you'll have two slim water lines running to it.
  
• My water is crystal clear. I can't say the same for my tank when I was using HOB filters.
  
  In short, I'll never go back to HOB filters again. It's canister all the way from here on out.

Happy cakeday! I've upgraded my filter to one that can handle up to 30 gallons (https://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Penguin-Power-Filter-70-Gallon/dp/B0009IODZG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=fish%2Btank%2Bfilter&qid=1564378467&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1). So hoping I'm good on that front.

For filters I'd go with two Fluval FX6's or two SunSun HW-304B's. Either of those will give you at least 8x overturn per hour. Or you could drill it and do a sump system.

The cheapest substrate would be sand from a local hardware store. My favorite so far is a pure white sand in 50 lb. white paper bags from Menards. Other people prefer black blasting sand, play sand, or pool sand. All work equally as well. As cichlids require hard water, you could use aragonite sand to help buffer the water, but a tank that size needs around 200 lbs. of sand and would get expensive quickly. There's also contractor's sand that is actually small pebbles. You can always go with the chunky gravel sold in pet stores. Or, if you're planting your tank, you could go with a dirted tank topped with sand or small gravel.

Throw in some cichlid stones, driftwood, or rocks to spruce up the decor a bit. Good luck!

Can you get Aqueon where you're at? Or even Aquaclear? Aqueon is an internal filter. You can get one with an adjustable outflow. Aquaclear is a hang on back, the small size goes up to 20 gal and works well according to reviews and vids I watch.

Otherwise, maybe a sponge filter is in order: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RKT6QPV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4-QwDbRVZZQXV

(all materials available on Amazon for ~$45): sponge filter, air pump, airline tubing (buy this separately, don't use the one that sometimes comes with the air pump kit as it's not reliable), check valve, bleed valve, T connector. Diagram: https://m.imgur.com/gallery/6GUliCb

You can find smaller sponge filters on Amazon that will fit your tank. The one I linked it quite tall for a 5 gal but extra filtration is always good.

As for the cartridge, it's charcoal which isn't needed to run 24/7. It's used to pull out pollutants or meds. But if you don't replace it, it leaches it back into the water. It's a waste of money. So we recommend bio media like sponge, filter floss, bio rings, etc. You rinse them out in tank water during wcs not tap.

Might I suggest the Hydor 350? Only $109 on Amazon.

I have one for my 60 gallon tank, as well as the in-line heater. Best features: opaque tubing (compared to the Fluval's ugly black ribbed tubing), extentable spray bar (they also include the standard lily pipe), easy maintenance, and the thing is scary quiet. The only way I know it's working is by the sound of splashing water from the spray bar (I keep it above the water for aeration and that lovely "waterfall" sound).

Of course I'm biased, but I really think this is one of the best canister filters out there, especially for the price.

I have the 60: https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO

The 150 is also good.

The only reason I went with the 60 is because it's very small, and there is little bioload in the tank it's on.

Sunsun makes smaller rated canisters but they are still bigger than a HOB. This is a small one https://www.amazon.com/TechnToy-HW-603B-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00CC6SCJQ or https://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Hw302-264GPH-Canister-Filter/dp/B00MGX7JXA/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1469731069&sr=1-1&keywords=sunsun+canister+filter

Also like snowmunkey said, aquaclear HOB are also an excellent choice.

What is your budget? Obviously your going to have a canister filter for that size, some good ones are Fluval, Marineland, Hydor, and sunsun cans if your on a lower budget, but still work really well, I use one for my 50g. And depending on the fish you want, you could have more than one filters, like if you have a fancy goldfish setup, you could have a canister and a HOB filter, to keep the tank cleaner.

I have a sunsun canister filter and it is almost completely silent. The one I linked is rated for 100 gallons of water, so really would only be good for about a 50 gallon tank, which is probably too small for your turtle. Get one rated for double the volume of water. And if cost is an issue, consider a stock tank instead of an aquarium. They’re not as pretty but they are perfectly adequate turtle homes, and a 100 gallon one runs about $75 at most local farm supply stores.

I have this Eheim rated for 92 gallons on my 55 gallon tank and I love it.

I had several Fluvals and I like the Eheim better.

I use this:

https://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Hw303B-370GPH-Canister-Filter/dp/B00MH2NRIQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1486763002&sr=1-1&keywords=303b

on my 55 gallon. It's worked out pretty nicely. I got a kit that came with the penguin 350 and it was pretty loud for the living room. The canister filters are VERY quiet.

What other equipment do you have?

Provided you don't have sump/skimmer/reactors and only have tank and powerhead you could also get an Aquaclear 70 HOB filter and put in there bag of Chemipure Blue, 100 ml of Seachem Purigen and adequate amount of Seachem Phosguard in Seachem The Bag.

For skimmers you could get cheaper but very effective SCA-301: it is little under $100, rated up to 65 gallons and is very quiet and has good customer support. Mine had faulty pump which was extremely loud, told that to customer rep and new pump was delivered to me within few days. This skimmer is low profile, but does require sump.

Ive heard about some people squeezing a Zoo Med Canister Filter in the back of the Fluval Edge. It doesnt seem to really fit though, it will give a small curve to the back casing.


I did a lot of research on how to improve the filtration system of the Fluval Edge 12G without any mods or without changing it's original look, the conclusion is...keep it stock! Upgrading the media filters is pretty much the only thing you can do.

This is a great filter and small enough that it would probably hook easily over the lip even though the tank is round, unless you're planning to use something really tall and narrow.

If you're looking for an external filter, I've heard great things about [this nano canister filter] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DIRPU) thought I haven't actually used it myself. Might be too much power, but I think it's the smallest canister on the market.

You might also consider going air pump powered, there are some nice small air powered filters like [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000634IYU). You could also consider [this mini undergravel filter] (https://www.bigalspets.com/lee-s-round-under-gravel-bowl-filter-large.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o2&scid=scplp53073&sc_intid=53073&gclid=CjwKEAjwvr3KBRD_i_Lz6cihrDASJADUkGCaTTOFNe6J9_Z6EqRUbX8hjIOqi6ntn6gkZNujK11ziRoCKP_w_wcB) (and just ditch the fake plant) but I know most folks tend to stay away from UGFs in planted tanks.

When you can purchase a 15 gallon from a box store or LFS for $15-20, the $200 circle tank seems gimmicky. Not only that but in an apartment it's going to require more surface area to place.

I found this post regarding round tanks regarding biOrb. In short other than visual distortion the study found there to be little difference. The typical issue people take with round tanks is that in the context it's usually referring to fish bowls under 1 gallon.

You do what what's right for your situation but I say save you money and picked a standard 15 gallon tank -$20, 100 watt heater -$20, Aerator -$10-15, Bio-wheel filter -$14, and finally lighting -$40.

Total cost comes out to $109 or $69 without the lighting.

You could also check craigslist for secondhand tanks. (I've never purchased a tank from a store) I got my 29 gallon and 36 gallon tanks with extra supplies for $20 each or $40 total so you can find good deals sometimes.

Most fish will prefer a longer tank than a tall one so if you're thinking tetras I'd strongly avoid the second tank you picked.

Lastly, because you mentioned it's a new aquarium, please look into nitrate cycling. It's a process that can cause new fish lots of stress if not done properly.

There's a $40 off amazon. You might find the same cheaper on eBay but shipping will take longer from Hong Kong. Zoo Med Nano 10 External Canister Filter, up to 10 Gallons https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DGHRU2

I personally use this $12 for my mini aquariums.
Elite Underwater Mini Filter, UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YD7D4

But I have shrimp and fish livestock. Love that model, been using it for over 10 years.

You could always go for something like this. I am running this alongside my 2 2215s. Works just fine. No leaks. If you are on a budget but need an ok canister I would recommend the sunsuns.

Having sump will let teach you about plumbing and keeping up with the filtration. I have a sump in my 29g tank. Here’s a good DIY kit from eBay https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F192265982145

As for over flow, water will stop once it goes below your overflow box. As long as it’s not an external overflow with a U shaped tube you’ll be okay as far as power outage. For the return, if your drilling your returns then just make them the same height as your overflow box and add a check valve just Incase. If your doing over the rim returns drill a syphon break hole.

For skimmer this is a good starter skimmer. You usually try to get something rated higher than your tank with this type of equipment.

SC Aquariums SCA-301 Protein Skimmer, 65 gal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CML49CK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xQGdBbAKEVAZD

For return pump get something with a controller that you can adjust like a Jebao pump.

If your drilling your overflow box make sure you drill two holes for a herbie style overflow or even better three for a herbie animal style overflow. One hole in the overflow will cause problems.

i might suggest this http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Turtle-Canister-Filter/dp/B0002DIRPU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333263231&sr=8-1

It says it's for turtles but it's doing a fine job in my 4.4 gallon cube. not a heavy flow as you would think it would but and its nice and silent. i had to cut down the spray bar a bit to fit it how i wanted.

Your filter is not even close to powerful enough for how many fish you tried to add, that is your issue. I would recommend getting a Marineland Penguin 100, and using both this filter and the one you currently have.

Also, I don't think your tank has been properly cycled to allow a suitable habitat.

Adding 8 more neons is the highest you should go with stocking the tank, and that is after buying the new filter and running both for at least 3 weeks.

This is a good deal if you go with the free shipping.

http://www.amazon.com/pet-supplies/dp/B0002DIRPU

You're probably better off buying from amazon, pet stores tend to inflate prices a bit. A FX6 filter (a filter for ~200g aquariums so too big for yours) would nearly fit in your budget.

Here are some pictures from setting up the hardscape, as well as a close up of the plants

And here's some info!


Tank - mr aqua 12g long The back of the tank has been painted with plastidip.

Filter - Eheim 2215

Heater - Hydor 200w inline heater

Light - Current USA Satellite LED+. Have it dimmed to ~60% RGB/White on a memory setting.

Light stand - This off amazon which I had to bend a bit since it's narrower than the Satellite.

Pipes - Chinese lily pipes off ebay. Going to be replacing them with these stainless steel ones


----------------

Sand - Carib sea sand

Gravel substrate - Seachem Flourite

Rocks - Seiryu Stone I bought a few packs and have a good amount extra, just to use interesting pieces. Took a chisel to one rock to get smaller parts to work with.

Wood - 4 Pieces of small / medium spiderwood from my LFS. My LFS had a good selection and they let me configure some pieces to see how they'd work together.

-----------------

Plants:

• Anubias Nana Petite
  
• Cryptocoryne Parva
  
• Cryptocoryne Wendtii Green
  
• Java Fern Sp. Narrow
  
• Anubias Nana Thick Leaf
  
• Cryptocoryne Wendtii Red
  
• Staurogyne Repens
  
  -----------------
  No fauna yet but I plan on moving my RCS over, and getting some micro crabs and possibly another type of shrimp!

You can get a SunSun for 50$ USD off amazon.com https://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Hw302-264GPH-Canister-Filter/dp/B00MGX7JXA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468735993&sr=8-2&keywords=sunsun probably the cheapest and most cost efficient in the 50$ range I don't know of anymore filters that are cheaper and good for a 20 long.

I run a dual setup in my 40 gallon long tank; a canister alongside a HOB. I love this setup and recommend it to anyone for larger tanks. It gives you the large size of the canister filter for a good amount of bio media, but you also have the HOB to add any small little things you need to for the tank. For example, in my HOB, I run filter floss, foam, and purigen. While in my canister I run bio balls, foam, and PhosGuard. Oh and I should mention that the HOB I use is an AquaClear 50, and the canister is an Eheim Classic 2215.
Specs on those:
Eheim:
164 GPH
Total Filter volume of 1.1 Gallons
Rated for tanks up to 92 US Gallons
AquaClear
200 GPH max (depends on how much filter media is inside)
Rated for tanks up to 50 gallons

I have the predecessor to this filter on a 55 gallon with African clawed frogs and a goldfish it works really well. Since you have a slightly larger tank it might be a good idea to add either another canister or an aquaclear HOB. Personally I would add an aquaclear 70 or 110

I have two filters in my 65 gallon tank, fully stocked (according to aqadvisor)

1. Aqueon Quiet Flow 75 (HOB filter) Includes all the stuff you see here: https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-06079-QuietFlow-Filter-400-GPH/dp/B004GX47TW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485760076&sr=8-1&keywords=aqueon+quietflow+75
   
   
2. Aqueon 30-gallon Quiet Flow Internal Filter. Includes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0092QJTD2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   What is the best filter media to place in these two filters? Is the stuff that came prepackaged with these filters sufficient for my tank's eventual full bioload from approx. 24 total comprised of mollies, swordtails, platys, and corys? Can I shove additional media into the back of the HOB, and if so, what should/can it be?
   
   Thanks for any input.
   
   (The tank was a present from my girlfriend, totally unexpected, and I started buying stuff without doing any research. I originally thought the 75g rating was excessive for my needs, but I wanted to err on the side of overfiltration... I bought the internal filter a few days ago to bridge the gap)

I have a new canister filter being delivered early next week. I'm going to have to re-organize and clean everything up soon... But it was only $36 on friday and I'm hella excited for it.

Okay, so Amazon has this Aquaclear 110. From reading the description, do I really need to replace all 3 media that often? (Carbon every month, foam filter every 2 months, biomax every 3 months) Or like /u/CFHQYH says and I can get away with just rinsing them?

And is there a specific sponge that fits over the intake?

Here is what I am running. It seems to work pretty well.


https://www.amazon.com/SC-Aquariums-SCA-301-Protein-Skimmer/dp/B00CML49CK

What does your price range look like? I'd second the aquaclear 50 if you don't want to spend that much money. If you have the cash, get a cannister filter like this one http://www.amazon.com/EHEIM-Classic-External-Canister-Filter/dp/B0002AQXTA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1427524285&sr=8-6&keywords=cannister+filter

Sicce Whale 1 or 2 canister filters are good and can be kept out of the way, but pay attention to their hooks over the tank's rim, they are rather oversized.

Anything larger than this and what can be kept not at the tank level, but below it, is good. This is in the filter specifications.

It doesn't matter what you will keep, the content of the canister filter is more or less the same: mechanical filter media, follower by chemical, followed by biomedia. It could be customized too.

Hi everyone,

I got some questions for my first fishtank.

I got a 29gal aquarium and I want to start it. I plan to buy this filter (Marineland, Penguin 200 (30 to 50G) and this heater (Pawfly 200W). I'm buying this kit and this stress coat from API. I have a cleaning kit and some decos. Should I buy something else?

I would like to stock my aquarium with a Betta as the centerpiece. I've read online that some other species can live with him, what y'all think?

Thanks!

Ok thank you so something like this filter would do the job? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MGX7JXA/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687742&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00892EN22&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=088S0GBKCWZBZKASD7T0

The SunSun canister filters on Amazon are affordable, powerful, and quiet; best canister filter you can get for the money IMO. I have the 302 since it was the cheapest, but there are other models, some with UV sterilizers.

Shopping list.
Filter - https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-25772-Whisper-Filter-20-Gallon/dp/B0002DHY4K/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1503975350&sr=1-4&keywords=20+gallon+filter

Light - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C84SLRO/ref=abs_brd_tag_dp?smid=A33ZKFW4KOEZQ4

Substrate - https://www.amazon.com/CaribSea-Eco-Complete-20-Pound-Planted-Aquarium/dp/B0002DH0QM/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1503976036&sr=1-2&keywords=tank+sand+black

Heater - https://www.amazon.com/Mylivell-Aquarium-Heater-Submersible-Thermostat/dp/B073P6NW71/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1503976318&sr=1-4&keywords=20+gallon+tank+heater

I want to do a rock wall, like this - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ROZPt7M2uIk.

So I should put all the above together in the tank with water and then cycle that for 2+ weeks before trying to add plants, then cycle that another 2+ weeks before trying to add fish?

Lights: One cheap, one expensive. I have the nicrew, it does fine for my 10g (in my post history)

NICREW DeluxeLED Aquarium Light, Full Spectrum LED Light for Planted Tanks, 20 to 24-inch, 18-Watt, 1200 LM, 7500K https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LJKNWS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xqXQAb6EVJ4YC

Finnex Planted+ 24/7 Fully Automated Aquarium LED, Controller, 20 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U0HMWHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dsXQAbP4XB4J


Filter: One cheap option, one more expensive. You could probably downgrade the first filter for less gph (under 100) is probably better.

Marineland Penguin 200, Power Filter, 30 to 50-Gallon, 200 GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IODZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XsXQAb35KHD23

Finnex PX-360 Compact Canister Aquarium Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VFF8U4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UuXQAbQFZ3NTZ


Heater: Get two of these so you can heat up water for your water changes.

Aqueon Adjustable Submersible Aquarium Heater, 50W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YAJJZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZvXQAbGD1J83W

hob - aquaclear 20 is really quiet

----

hybrid: KollerCraft TOM Rapids Mini Canister Filter

link:

http://www.amazon.com/KollerCraft-Rapids-Mini-Canister-Filter/dp/B000YJ0M1E/ref=sr_1_50?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1463721894&sr=1-50&keywords=sunsun+canister+filter

-----

Canister: Eheim: http://www.amazon.com/EHEIM-Classic-External-Canister-Filter/dp/B0002AQXTA/ref=sr_1_14?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1463722046&sr=1-14&keywords=canister+filter


or if you need to save a few bucks:
SUNSUN HW-602B

suggest putting foam around the pump portion of this one, as it is known to vibrate a little...

Sure thing! Here's a list of the main equipment:

Lighting - Finnex FugeRay Planted+ Aquarium LED Light Plus Moonlights

Light Risers - OEM FINNEX LIGHT RISERS FITS PLANTED+, RAY2, FUGERAY, ETC.

Filter - EHEIM Classic 250

Co2 - Tank / Diffuser / Drop Checker

Heater - EHEIM Jager Aquarium Thermostat Heater

Addon - Finnex Breeder Box with Light

definately get a new filter, what's working on the 20 won't support the 75 once you get more life in there.

Based on a recommendation here, i picked up an Eheim for my 40g. my HOB filter was rated above my tank size, but the canister just blows it away. immediate impact on water clarity.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQXTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this one on my 7

http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Turtle-Canister-Filter/dp/B0002DIRPU

http://www.zoomed.com/db/products/EntryDetail.php?EntryID=165&DatabaseID=2&SearchID=3&SearchContext=YTo1OntzOjg6IlNlYXJjaElEIjtzOjE6IjMiO3M6MTA6IkRhdGFiYXNlSUQiO3M6MToiMiI7czo4OiJLZXl3b3JkcyI7czozOiI1MDEiO3M6ODoiU2VhcmNoX3giO3M6MToiMCI7czo4OiJTZWFyY2hfeSI7czoxOiIwIjt9

The hoses are pretty thin and you can upgrade to glass inside the tank.

I haven't given that much thought. I would like to spend under 200 bucks if I can (on the stand only). I live in a very rural area so I'm limited to amazon or building something myself. I assumed 50 bucks for a filter and I wasn't sure what the lighting would run, though.


Probably one of these two.

*https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-06079-QuietFlow-Filter-400-GPH/dp/B004GX47TW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475069578&sr=8-1&keywords=75+gallon+filter

https://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Emperor-Bio-wheel-Power-Filter/dp/B000HHOI8G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1475069578&sr=8-3&keywords=75+gallon+filter

Ok, no to the Fluval. Absolutely great brand BUT for a Turle you want to run triple capacity. So for a 55 gallon tank you should run a 165 gallon filter or bigger. Try this one. That's what I ran before going to my 150 gallon.

whats your budget? with cichlids you usually want to over stock them so they dont single out one another. so you need more filtering than normal. depending on where this was going i would get a 55 and build it in to a sump. for a 180 gal you want 7-10 water changes an hour so so 1260-1800 GPH total filtering.

i have one of these on my 55 you could get 2 of them and use your current filter as well and be doing it decently. you could also look at getting a FX6 they are really highly rated.

http://www.amazon.ca/API-Filstar-XP-L-Canister-Filter/dp/B000260FX4. :)

If my filter ever broke down, I would buy the same filter again lol

Thank you!

Mr. Aqua 12g Long Tank (standard glass)

Keynice Digital Thermometer

NICREW ClassicLED Plus

Hygger Submersible Heater

Fluval C2 Power Filter

Dr. Tims Ammonia Chloride (for cycling)

Vintage Dark Brown Console Table (for stand)

(Seachem Flourite, Standard Aquarium Gravel, Polished River Rocks, Black Glass Rock, Blue Glass Rock)

(Monte Carlo, Dwarf Hair Grass, Red Pearl Amazon Sword)

If you have 3k to spend on a game you probably aren't worrying about money. It's a recreational expense, like buying a stupidly expensive kayak or fitting all your aquariums (no, nobody just has one) with $300 canisters. People with extra money do spend on their hobbies, and gaming is a hobby.

this this might be a good option for heating + filtering if youre not set on a canister.

this is the way to go! glass lily pipes and a nano canister filter like this one https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Turtle-Canister-Filter/dp/B0002DIRPU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487866760&sr=8-1&keywords=zoo+med+canister+filter

Eheim 2215 is a great canister filter for your budget.

Are you actually finding sand in the impeller housing? If not, you may not even have the same impeller problem if you replace your current filter with another one of the same model.

I don't care for Marinelands and would suggest Aquaclears instead. All five of our tanks (plus our quarantine) have Aquaclears and all have been going strong for at least 3 years (a couple are going on five years). Our 125 gallon was purchased from Craigslist and came with Marineland Penguins like those above. IMO, the little biowheel isn't really big enough to make a difference, they're noisier than our Aquaclears and our Aquaclear 110 seemed to move a lot more water than the Penguin. Just my experience but I'd skip it and go for this (check out the gallon per hour rating to find the appropriate size for your tank).

Filter http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008986EQO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421121421&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=31fg9kdaJ9L&ref=plSrch

1st level http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B50UPE0

Put this on top of the other floss http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002HBLUE

2nd level http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002Z7VAK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421121104&sr=8-1

3rd level http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000R31KH2

With http://www.amazon.comgp/aw/d/B0006JLVUI inside of http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002X6F7AW put on top of the other media

4th level 2 packs of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NRVLIU

Here is my layout, if I were to redo it I would have made the last 3 eheim pro. For the media I would have used the floss it came with at the bottom just rip it vertically, then foam, then the fine floss.

Overall I rate it 4.5 out of 5, sometimes it is hard to prime.

Hygger Aquarium Double Sponge Filter, Comes with 2 Spare Sponges, 1 Bag of Bio Ceramic Media Balls, Quiet Submersible Foam Filter for Fresh Water and Salt-Water Fish Tank (M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RKT6QPV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pqYuDb1YNDK5D

Thinking about buying a canister filter for my 20G tanks. I have aspirations for upgrading to a 55 gallon in some point in the future so I'd like to have something that could handle both. This Ehiem filter is for sale on Amazon for $79.99 and is rated for 66gallons. Wouldn't have any issues with over filtering? Or would the filter media just last forever?


http://www.amazon.com/EHEIM-Classic-External-Canister-Filter/dp/B0002AQXTA?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAJ7T5BOVUVRD2EFYQ&tag=camelbrowser-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0002AQXTA&th=0

Filter
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008986EQO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421121421&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=31fg9kdaJ9L&ref=plSrch

1st level
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B50UPE0

Put this on top of the other floss
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002HBLUE

2nd level
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002Z7VAK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421121104&sr=8-1

3rd level
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000R31KH2

With http://www.amazon.comgp/aw/d/B0006JLVUI inside of http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002X6F7AW put on top of the other media

4th level
2 packs of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NRVLIU

Here's the exact one I have on my 20 gallon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MGX7JXA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have an aquarium chiller connected to it as well.

I use this on my 10 liter and it works well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005DGHRU2

This and similar kinds are good, different sellers sell them and check size, is it too small or too big for your tank. I had a couple of 10 gal rated, without biomedia section, in 5 gal tank.

Another possibility is Matten filter.

Anything air pump powered is louder, but with slowest possible and adjustable flow, if use double air valve.

It's been established for about 6 months, I added the fish pretty gradually. The only ones I added within a day or so of each other were the cats, because I got one albino and he looked lonely, and I got a couple different batches of tetras because I wanted them to school.

I use this guy for filtration. I have a bubble curtain rod thing in the back for air circulation. The tank is at about 75 degrees right now.

Personally i had a Aquaclear 70 on my 29 gallon and replaced it with a SunSun HW-303B canister filter and would never go back to a HOB. it is definitely overkill, but i had horrible green water and needed a filter with UV. It is amazingly quiet and keeps the water crystal clear with Purigen and Seachem Matrix in addition to the media it came with. I think it was around $90 shipped from Amazon for the pro-kit

I would say look at a small canister filter like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DGHRU2

On my 5g betta tank, I found HOB filters took too much clutter and restricted the types of lights you could use. For example, you can't use the Finnex line as one side of the tank is blocked by the filter.

With a canister, you can run clear plastic tubing in and out of the tank and keep everything tidy.

I should have added that I also have a sump with an over sized skimmer.
https://www.amazon.com/SC-Aquariums-SCA-301-Protein-Skimmer/dp/B00CML49CK

I actually have to overfeed my fish to keep my nitrates above 0 for my corals.
http://imgur.com/a/tyMva

I also have a bag of biopellets that I don't use.

Like I said, 2 of my fish don't really swim around in the water column. All of my fish put together probably has less mass than than the melanarus wrasse which has a recommended tank volume of 50 gallons.

I would be inclined to go with the Classic (92 gallon version) over the Ecco. It's a simpler design with more room for filter media, and is better reviewed. On a personal note, I've owned mine for 18 months now and have had zero problems.

[I was looking at this filter, I just dont know what pump to pair it with] (EHEIM Classic Canister Filter 2213, Classic 250 - PetOverstock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AQXTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NBazDbY6HX186)

I would have thought this one but it doesn't look exactly right.

If you go H.O.B. I'd go for an aquaclear 110.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DGHRU2/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2YKHLMXRLPQLV

Here is the mobile version of your link

I've had a Sunsun (this one) on one of my tanks for almost two years now and have never had any issues with it.

Finnex tank and FugeRAY Planted+ lighting

EHEIM Classic 250 (I have it going at about 3/4 max flow)

CaribSea substrate

So i've been considering this myself recently. When I asked last week the two recommendations I got were penn-plax and hydor.

The fluval '06 line has mixed reviews. I thought about a SunSun because of the price and UV sterilizer, but the consensus is you get what you pay for there. So then I considered the AquaTop, which is the 'higher end' version of the SunSun, but it appears they have poor customer service. I was intrigued by the marineland mangiflow series, as marineland seems extremely responsive to customers questions/requests on amazon.

But ultimately, I'm heavily considering this hydor for my 29 gal tank. I'm still tempted by the Penn-Plax cascade.

So i actually hate the fluval filters. They suck.

I got this for my 2 fluval spec vs and it works great

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-External-Canister-Gallons/dp/B005DGHRU2/ref=asc_df_B005DGHRU2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167149786275&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8436163446042954173&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011245&hvtargid=pla-307954091999&psc=1

As far as gravel you need to stir it up lightly with your hand and vacuum the sludge up. You can do this over 3 or 4 water changes

This one seems to do the trick
https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Internal-Protein-30-Gallon/dp/B0028BPRMA/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1541609626&sr=8-22&keywords=protein+skimmer+hang+on

Intenal, but I have this in my 20g and it works well. Lot of people complain about micro bubbles but they mostly went away after a few days.

Presently, this filled with ammonia stones and two 8", incredibly lazy plecos.

This canister filter is discontinued. For this reason I cannot find a price on it. To be honest i would buy a new canister filter for the 15 dollars extra. People here recommend sunsun usually. This one comes with its own media http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Hw302-264GPH-Canister-Filter/product-reviews/B00MGX7JXA/ref=cm_cr_dp_qt_hist_one?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&showViewpoints=0
but watch a video on how to set it up. Directions are bad

The Ninja Turtles were mutated from Red-eared Sliders and in the 7 years I took care of one the smell was usually not from the Turtle but from the tank. In the begining I used pellets, and let me tell you DONT use pellets with aquatic turtles because that shit gets nasty. One of the worst smells ive ever had to deal with. If you maintain it correctly the smell is not that bad.

Feed them dark greens and don't let the leftovers just float around, scoop them out. It also helps to have a pump/filter that would be overkill for the size of the tank you have your turtle in.

Mine was in a 100gal tank and I had this monster pump/filter in it which was so good I onlu needed to clean the whole thing once every few months vs every few weeks. If you are going to keep an aquatic turtle indoors its expensive and takes ALOT of patience to learn the dos and donts. And in the end, they are not great pets, they don't care about you until you bring them food.

Obligatory pic of Chell