Reddit mentions: The best aviation electronics accessories

Electrical is the easiest of the major trades that impact the homeowning diy'er IMO.

Conceptually it's similar to plumbing, only the actual implementation is far easier, and you'll generally know if you make mistakes right away. The hydraulic analogy works quite well for many concepts with electricity.

Here are the basics:

1. If your house is older, the wiring circuits may not be safe to add additional load to. Frequently, the circuits are not safe for the existing load, because older houses have had people doing questionable things and we have a lot more electrical load than they were originally designed for. Kitchen and bathroom circuits are two that you have to take particular care with because they can have high powered appliances like hair dryers and blenders.
   
   
2. Learn ohm's law and calculate your load. You will get voltage drop if you draw too much current, which means less energy is making it to your device and is instead lost in the wires as heat. Too much heat in your wires will melt the insulation and cause a short.
   
   
3. The new lighting fixtures you get will be rated at so many watts, which is just volts x amps. Figure out the total amps of your circuit and make sure your new lighting fixtures keep you under 80% of the maximum load rating of the minimum conductor size on your circuit.
   
   
4. While all this math (Ohm's law) is well and good, most electricians just run 14 gauge (white) wire for 15amp circuits, 12 gauge (yellow) for 20amp, and 10 gauge (orange) for things like your clothes dryer and electric range. I did my (entire) house one size up from all these since it isn't much more cost, but gives me a lot more flexibility in the future.
   
   
5. Go over to amazon and get a highly rated electric multimeter for $50 or less. It's all you need. Most multimeters will handle AC electricity up to 600v.
   
   
6. Any receptacles or lighting fixtures you buy are literally color coodinated. You put the white one to the white one and the black one to the black one. As I said, this is easier than plumbing. If you have two light switches that control the same lighting outlets, this is a 3-way circuit and will probably be run with a wire that has three conductors between switches, white, black, and red. (And a bare ground, which is generally implied. So if you get 14/2 wire, it actually has three wires inside, but one isn't insulated and is just bare copper. 14/3 has four copper wires, one of which is bare.)
   
   
7. In the US, the black wire carries the electricity. The white wire is the return, or if you use the hydra-analogy, the white is your drain. Regular switches just connect/disconnect the black wire. The white and the bare or green wire (ground) are always connected.
   
   
8. Your house gets two wires from the power company, which make it to your box as a red and a black on two sides of your box. If you go from red to black you will read 240v. If you go from either to white/neutral or ground you will read 120v. It's easy enough to add a breaker on either of these poles and just run a new wire. Be careful not to mix circuits - for example if you measure the black wire from one bedroom to the black wire of another, you may get 240v if they're on different poles.
   
   
9. This book: http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-Electrical-Code-Reference-Professional/dp/1111545480/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405969620&sr=8-1&keywords=dewalt+nec has all the basics and has more than enough info and pretty pictures to help you do the job safely.
   
   
10. You can get a 120v load tester at home depot. Any "load tester" is basically just an electric heater, which is (basically) just a piece of metal that has a resistance calibrated to pass a certain amount of current (amps) at 120v, and see if the voltage drops more than a few percent. You can DIY this if you have a space heater and can connect it while you test the voltage on the circuit, but if you're adding to a circuit I would definitely do this to make sure everything is good. Remember that with no load on your circuit you could measure a nice, healthy ~115v - but if you have too much on it and the voltage drops below 100v, that's because the energy is going to heating the wire in your walls. (Ohm's law.)
    
    
11. Be prepared for "You're going to kill your family!" warnings when working with electrical and asking questions in forums. Just ignore them. The NEC is freely available in PDF format and has all the rules. Just keep googling and when you ask for the right terms, you'll generally see a picture or other people with similar questions.
    
    
12. If you do add a new circuit, make sure to buy the same brand that your breaker box is. There are half-size circuits if you are running low of space in your box, but keep in mind that you can't go beyond what your box is rated for. Most homes have boxes (and lines from the power company) in 50-200amp increments.
    
    
13. If you're just adding wire from the existing light fixtures to new ones for more light, and you determine the load is going to be safe, make sure to wire them in parallel rather than series. "Pigtailing" is a popular term for this, and it will keep lights in fixture #3 on if #2 goes out or is powered by a light that has a switch mode power supply, like an LED or CFL. (LED's run on less than 20v DC and CFL run on 600v AC, so they have mini power rectifiers or inverters in them that change the voltage according to their needs. Some of these can open and close the circuit a few million times per second, meaning that a wiring configuration that would have worked with an incandescent bulb, which works on the same principle as a space heater, just a wire with a specific resistance, won't work at all with newer technology.)
    
    
14. Keep electrical wire at least 2' from parallel runs with any low voltage wiring. generally it isn't a problem, because your mains cycling at 60hz is nowhere near the mhz range where most of your modern stuff is going to be running. But 60hz is quite audible, and if you have ground problems you will hear buzzing in speakers or get distortion on analog video signals.
    
    The biggest problem you're going to have is drilling and running the new wire. The electricity stuff is easy. It's easier than ikea furniture. The construction part is tricky because there are limits to how/where you can drill holes in your house to keep the structure safe.
    
    There are also bend radius limits on wire, and limits for how hard you can pull on them without damaging the insulation. Don't manhandle your wire or twist/bend it up too badly.
    
    Ideally your wire should be secured to the structure every 4', and within 8" of the fixture. Don't leave spools of it, just 6" of wire in the box so you can work with it to attach fixtures and such. You don't have to rip out your drywall to secure the wire, retrofits are allowed.
    
    Read up on the hydraulic analogy here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydraulic_analogy
    
    Plumbing and carpentry are things where people can screw up and you don't find out for years. Generally with electrical you can know right away if something is wrong with simple tests. I think the fact that it's so easy is a reason electricians seem to be the most cantankerous towards DIY'ers of the trades. There are homeowners that do stupid things - but they're not the ones asking questions about how to do it right.
    
    Inspectors are helpful and reasonable with homeowners doing their own work. Their job (and yours) is to keep people safe. If you're allowed to do your own electrical in your municipality, do it, pull the permit, and when your inspector comes out he'll make sure everything looks right.
    
    tldr; if you can do ikea furniture, you can do your own electrical. Anyone that says otherwise is just protecting their income or legitimately finds something so easy really hard and you need to be weary of those people.
    
    edit: Some people will scare you with "Everything has to be brought up to current code which will cost $bazzillion." This is not true. Generally, retrofits are allowed so long as they are safe and are at least up to the code at the time of building.
    
    edit2: The code is both a standard, so dude #3 will recognize the work dude #1 did without any guessing, but it also specifies a minimum. You can always do more than the code specifies, but not less. Don't confuse work done "to code" with "the best" or "optimum." Often, a tradesman will do something that is easier for himself but impacts the work or your home in a negative way. Most often this is drilling through something they shouldn't, or loading up a circuit to max capacity because they're too lazy to pull new wire.
    
    edit3: The book I linked is the 2011 code. The main difference between that and the 2014 code that applies to homeowners is that AFCI breakers are required just about everywhere now. This means instead of spending $3 on a new breaker, you are spending $30.
    
    source: I completely rewired my house and passed inspection (with compliments) thanks to the power of The Google.

I've seen this gets posted frequently. Here's a high level overview with some specific parts.

You need at least one camera (duh) and a way to get audio. The camera can be gopro or knock off, but you need a sturdy mount like this or this or this.

The easiest way to synch audio is to connect your camera straight in to the audio panel, with a cable like this or doing the "stuff the mic in your ear" trick that was mentioned already.

You could also get a billet mount like this to get some awesome external views and/or a wing strut clamp like this but your battery may not last as long as your flight!

Then head on over to your favorite video software and go at it!

Good luck and share your videos w/ us when you're done awesomeing it up!

If you have the right mindset with it, the initial flight is jarring, but an amazing experience. If you're used to flying in larger jets, hopping in a little 1200 lb Cessna is a huge difference. As long as you can get past the initial takeoff (we had a lot of crosswind and had quite a bit of turbulence), it's an amazing experience. I landed about 80% on my own my last lesson and there's nothing quite like it. Definitely an investment, but you can take as long as you need.

If you're serious about it, and you end up getting into it, the ASA private pilot kit is great! (and a bargain) http://www.amazon.com/ASA-Private-Pilot-Kit-ASA-PVT-61-KIT/dp/B00373Y0M6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462751314&sr=8-1&keywords=private+pilot+kit

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Description|#MinaMorcos #Aviation #PilotAccesories⤶⤶I hope you guys enjoy the video and consider subscribing! Let me know if there is anything I should add in my bag. ⤶⤶Join the adventure! Like, Comment, Subscribe. ⤶⤶Here are the items featured in this video: ⤶⤶HS-1 ASA Headset⤶https://www.amazon.com/ASA-ASAHS1A-HS-1-Aviation-Headset/dp/B001THL8SQ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=hs-1+asa&qid=1567604225&s=gateway&sr=8-1⤶⤶**Sportys Fuel Tester ⤶https://www.sportys.com/pilotshop/sporty-s-fuel-tester.html⤶⤶Pilot Logbook⤶https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Pilot-Log-Black-ASA-SP-30/dp/1560273283/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1BOX1FBFTUQBA&keywords=asa+pilot+logbook&qid=1567604416&s=gateway&sprefix=asa+pilot+lo%2Caps%2C123&sr=8-1⤶⤶Sectional Map (Dependent on the area you live in)⤶https://www.amazon.com/FAA-Chart-Sectional-YORK-Current/dp/B01M0OQ7ZI/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=sectional+map&qid=1567604476&s=gateway&sr=8-1⤶⤶Smith & Wesson Flashlight⤶https://www.amazon.com/Smith-Wesson-Flashlight-Waterproof-Construction/dp/B000I4O8BK/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=smith+and+wesson+flashlight&qid=1567604268&s=gateway&sr=8-3⤶⤶ ASA Kneeboard ⤶https://www.amazon.com/ASA-Visual-Flight-Kneeboard-ASA-KB-1/dp/B003455YF4/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=leg+clipboard&qid=1567604524&s=gateway&sr=8-1⤶⤶Flight Gear Bag⤶https://www.sportys.com/pilotshop/flight-gear-quick-case.html

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Good luck! One suggestion I might make is that I notice you have the "wheel" E6B. It works, but it's a pain in the ass, and in reality the only time you will ever use this stuff is when you're taking your knowledge test or when you're taking the practical exam. An electronic one makes it so much easier. They're prettymuch all the same, but when you take your exam, there will be a ton of questions of the form:

wind speed X,
wind direction Y,
true airspeed A,
true course B,
magnetic variation C,
calculate the wind correction angle and magnetic heading to fly?

You can use the little wheely thing and get the answer, or you can use an electronic E6B and it will ask you for each of those numbers, you hit enter, and it gives you the answer. New they're about $60, you can probably find a used one on ebay or hang around the flight school / club / whatever and see if you can buy one off of a student who just passed their checkride :)

I used this one: http://www.amazon.com/Pathfinder-Electronic-Flight-Computer-CX-2/dp/B0013KX2K6 but Sporty's has one as well that's basically the same. http://www.sportys.com/pilotshop/sporty-s-new-electronic-e6b-flight-computer.html

They're incredibly more useful when it comes to taking the test, and even (gasp) real world usage. You can use them for wind correction angles, finding density altitudes, calculating weight and balance, and just about every other type of calculation that will be on your written knowledge test (and yes, you're allowed to use it on the test). You can live with the little plastic wheely thing, but I'd say there are few ways to relieve as much frustration with only $60 as an electronic E6B.

You gave me a great idea with this post. I have two Thrustmaster MFDs that I never use any more now that I fly in VR. I'm going to take one of them and rig it to a kneeboard off of Amazon. It'd be perfect since I would still have full access to HOTAS controls and the Thrustmaster MFD buttons are prominent enough that I could easily feel my way around the board instead of using the nose gap in the Oculus. Great idea!

I love this efb cooler. Works well with a Telex 750 headset. https://www.amazon.com/Aerocoast-PRO-EFB-Cooler-II/dp/B00YUVFGYK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=efb+cooler&qid=1569346415&sprefix=efb+coo&sr=8-1

Food compartment 14x10x6 inches So this works pretty good for a ice pack. https://www.amazon.com/Igloo-Maxcold-Medium-Ice-Block/dp/B00CWL3MM8/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=igloo+ice+pack&qid=1569347230&sprefix=igloo+ice+&sr=8-5

Great pouch can be added to the efb bag for carrying the large water bottles you get from catering. https://www.amazon.com/CONDOR-H2O-Pouch-Black-4Dia-Inch/dp/B005LY4SLC/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=molle+water+bottle+pouch&qid=1569346190&sprefix=mole+water&sr=8-5

http://www.amazon.com/Jeppesen-Three-Ring-Trifold-Kneeboard-JS626010/dp/B003VS8L2W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449499646&sr=8-1&keywords=jeppesen+ifr+kneeboard


Don't worry about it saying IFR, it has a ton of good info on the clip board, the 3 ring binder with plastic pages are a great place to put checklists.

Love it!

If your friends doesn't all ready have an online logbook you're friends going to have a bad time. Personally a well printed online logbooks looks a lot better than a hand written one.

LogBook Pro, LogTen Pro, mmcPilotlog, Zululog, Microsoft Excel, to name a few.

If you're deadest on getting a nice paper logbook I don't think you can go wrong with the Jeppesen Professional Logbook, that green paper!

No, the Hero isn't designed for receiving bluetooth audio and the headset isn't designed to send it.

I'm using this cable with a hero 4, and it's supposed to work with a 3+ as well.

Bonus: It has a power input that you can plug into an extra USB battery to get extended recording time.

FYI, I made some edits to clean it up a bit. I tend to ramble.

>Is it too late for aviators to do anything about it??

Yea, major change will require some changes to the ADSB protocol, which, like any changes with government, will be slow and expensive. Then the manufacturers would have to build anonymity features into their hardware, and that would have to make it's way into the market and into airplanes.

What an aviator can do today is pretty limited. You can not equip your aircraft with ADSB, which is legal as long as you stay out of certain airspaces. That's not an option for many/most, though.

Otherwise, you can buy an ADSB transponder with anonymous mode (anonymous mode is the ADSB equivalent of squawking 1200), but that mode is prohibited or unavailable in some ways that it shouldn't be.

It's really going to take a lot of people in the industry demanding privacy, and many years for that pressure to manifest in changes. There is some hope on the horizon though. The FAA is aware of the concern, and trying to establish some bandaids to cover their complete lack of foresight.

Interestingly, I've heard a lot of examples of ADSB being used against people. For example, people have been tracking corporate jets, to see where other companies might be doing deals or expanding. I saw a reddit post where someone that lived near an airport was trying to tie a decibel meter with the ADSB receiver, so they could identify the noise level of every airplane, which would make it very easy to harass people who haven't broken any rules.

The FAA actually publishes the radar tracks of aircraft that are tagged up (that's what sites like FlightAware originally used), but that data goes through a screen where aircraft that have privacy concerns (VIPs, military) get filtered out. With ADSB being broadcast, openly and peer to peer, those filters aren't able to be applied.

With the current protocol, this $38 package on Amazon can circumvent all of that. (Twice, because for $38 you get two receivers.)

I started with [this] (IFR Tri-Fold Kneeboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RIGABG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ppqKAb2NH3JNF). I just bought the [flyboys] (Flyboys Pilot Kneeboard IFR/VFR - Desert Tan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0711JFFWJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DqqKAb9XM5Y6C) but haven't flown with it. Honestly I would want the asa one with the ring capability of the flyboys.

I am using all paper for now while I save up for the iPad so keep that in mind.

That's a good indicator, thanks, but the format isn't what I'm looking for. That's larger, and more free form. I did find https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LPZD56/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 though, which says the paper specifically resists bleed through, so we'll see.

I picked up this small kneeboard a few months ago and have been happy with it. I'm learning in an LSA so space is super cramped

[ASA KB-1 VFR Kneeboard] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003455YF4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swfww)

This is what I use for my GoPro Hero 4, works great.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAQHYRG/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_mH1VDbGGC06K6

I fly a 172, and I have a ipad air 2 (full size). If you have a mini-ipad, suction mount and yoke mount as probably less intrusive, but for full size ipads they are too intrusive for me. Here's my personal experience:

• Started off with a RAM suction mount and RAM X-Grip. It was nice to have a moving map at eye level. But I didn't like how it would block so much of my view outside. And more than once the suction mount came off while I was flying, which was a big distraction / annoyance.
  
  
• Bought a RAM yoke mount. Maybe it was the weight of the RAM X-Grip mount and ipad case, but it added quite a bit of weight to the yoke. It made aileron controls feel different. On the ground, without a yoke mount, when I turn the yoke left/right, it would stay there. With the mount, when I turn right slightly on the yoke, the weight of the ipad+mount would pull the yoke all the way to 90 degrees. I did a few touch n goes with it and got annoyed at it changing the feel of the flight controls.
  
  
• Decided to give a kneeboard a shot. I dug up my old ASA kneeboard, and my ipad air 2 clipped on to it perfectly. It was pretty much the same size. I miss having the moving map at eye level, but for me it was a worthwhile trade off. As a VFR pilot I should be focused on the outside more anyways.

At long last I can join the ranks of pilots shamelessly decorating their homes with FAA charts. For me only being a couple years in, it's all about the journey and so without a doubt I had to do a "Places I've flown" map. I found this one on Amazon and the print quality is just as good as real sectionals & TACs.

Clearly I have quite a few horizons to expand on – and I'm hoping to move on from renting in part so I can add new pins even faster. Next primary objectives:

• MSN - Not going to make the Jet Room this time, but picking up a work friend's brother and flying back to tour the Chicago skyline.
  
• EYE - Only recently found out about Rick's boatyard cafe and it's one of the most legit-looking hamburger runs within range of Chicago.
  
• MCD - Can't resist a little weekend getaway to an island with no cars but an active airport

I've found the footage has been very helpful to review my landings and radio communication after my flights!

I have a gopro hero 3+ and a gopro 2. There is a mount on the ceiling of the plane I soloed in (it was put there even before I started training) and it gives a good angle of the cockpit and outside.

I bought a cheap gopro frame mount on ebay for a few bucks so that I can plug the audio input into the camera while it's mounted. Ebay Link.

To record audio I got this cord that can plug into the gopro or even your smartphone to record all cockpit and ATC audio. Amazon Link.

For the other gopro I got a suction cup mount and put it on the passenger window! I got the gopro brand suction mount but I think I'm going to return it because it doesn't have a ball joint for 360 degree rotation.

The ones that are given with the exam. It can be bought on Amazon. The written test is pretty much a joke. Just buy a good study app and memorize it till you get good scores. It isn't a good way to test actual knowledge but I get why they do it. https://www.amazon.com/ASA-Airman-Knowledge-Testing-Supplement/dp/B01K0L2WOA/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=private+pilot+test+supplement&qid=1562254240&s=gateway&sr=8-10

No problem. It sounds like you want a little more direction for your ground school. I'd recommend either signing up for a class (maybe not at your school, all things considered) or buying a study-at-home course.

I used ASA's DVD course (http://www.amazon.com/Private-Pilot-Virtual-Test-Prep/dp/B0036YUKP2) but they're all pretty much the same.

Have both. In your training, instructors seem to love signing the log books, and also gives you a place for endorsements. I tape my student cert and medical to the log book just to keep everything in one place.

http://www.amazon.com/The-Standard-Pilot-Navy-Blue/dp/1560273305

Is what you see in many FBOs. Simple, and it works. I consider this my paper backup. With each page filled, I take a picture and stick that in my google drive or email it to myself.

I also keep a google spreadsheet of all my flights so I can do some basic analytics. This is where I really track currency.

This is a very personal choice. Here's what works for me:

I'm a fan of the MyClip style. The bigger version allows me to keep a case around my iPad and just clip the iPad/case assembly on.

http://www.pilotmall.com/product/iPad-MyBigClip-Leg-Strap/ipad-kneeboards-and-cases

On my right knee, I roll with a simple knee board for writing clearances. Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Sky-High-Gear-Inc-SH-0200/dp/B003ZZNGC6/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1451202212&sr=8-13&keywords=Kneeboard+pilot

Get one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/ASA-Airman-Knowledge-Testing-Supplement/dp/B01K0L2WOA/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=airman+testing+supplement&qid=1562214524&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Same book you’ll have on the actual test. You’ll be happy you saw it for practice first.

I don't disagree, but if you are going to do work, you are responsible to learn how that work needs to be done. For example:

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-Electrical-Code-Reference-Professional/dp/1111545480

That is an abridged homeowner level book of the NEC for $15. Want the full book with commercial and industrial requirements: Spend the $150 bucks.

If you are doing electrical work on your house, $15 is nothing. Keep in mind, you will need an electrical inspection to get a C of O. And you will need a C of O to get insurance. Worse case scenario, if you don't buy the book, the inspector will direct you to correct problems they see.

It is not fair to ask all tax payers to fund these organizations for few percentage of homeowners who do this work themselves. Especially when the information is available at a very reasonable cost, or free from your local library, and most codes departments will lend the books to homeowners who are interested in doing the job correctly.

I fly the DA40 but I'm not currently using an EFB. The issue is probably lap space due to the center stick. I actually can't use a normal sized kneeboard because it interferes with the stick or throttle. So you could use the ipad but keeping it on your lap the whole time probably won't happen.

Instead I took an old ipod exercise arm band, sewed some velcro (loop side) to it and this goes around my right thigh. Then I took a small clip board and put the hook side on the back. This lets me easily use the board when I need it and store it away when not.

I have this ASA knee board, very simple and t has some good references on the board (like VFR altitudes) which is handy while you're still learning.
ASA KB-1 VFR Kneeboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003455YF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2uYlyb311EE2P

He was probably referring to something like this that has the VFR flight regs + other reminders on it.

This on has a big recomendation from pilots:
Flyboys
I would be sure to get one that has ring holes so you can use plastic see-through leaflets to hold various information. I keep everything from personal notes to diagrams of tower signal lights, incase I forget one. I also am able to attach my Samsung tablet on top of it.
When you take your flight test, your DPE will probably frown if you don't have one.

Consider buying a quality logbook that you could use for several years in case you flying and want to continue.

The Standard Pilot Log (Navy Blue): ASA-SP-57 (Standard Pilot Logbooks) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1560273305/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_st3RDbW0EPKZE

This particular chart, ~map~, was purchased from Amazon

I actually havn`t received it yet, but I believe it uses USB-C

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Nflightcam-Audio-Solution-GoPro-Session/dp/B01MT3Q50Y#HLCXComparisonWidget_feature_div

For audio: https://www.amazon.com/Nflightcam-Audio-Solution-GoPro-Hero5/dp/B01MT3Q50Y/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2GBGFS6GTVKIM&keywords=aviation+gopro+audio&qid=1550540782&s=gateway&sprefix=aviation+gopro%2Caps%2C297&sr=8-2

​

For mounting, my school has the flat adhesive mounts located on the ceiling: https://shop.gopro.com/mounts/curved-plus-flat-adhesive-mounts/AACFT-001.html

You betcha. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G13RPZS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1417391658&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_

http://www.amazon.com/ASA-ASA-KB1-KB-1-VFR-Kneeboard/dp/B003455YF4

So i think i know exactly what little booklet you're talking about. I absolutely hate those booklets. I very much urge people when i do a discovery flight to spend 11 dollars more and get a real log book for that chance of them ever continuing.

That said. If i understand it right you have 2 hours in that paper log book. In the PPL phase those 2 hours are not that much at all and it doesnt really matter if you bring them over. You're going to be flying at least 55-65 if not more hours.

Now... hours are hours and quite frankly i would wanna keep all the hours i can. If this where my own logbook, i would take the totals from the flights in the old book and log them in the first line of the new book, and put in the comment section "carryover from old logbook." Id take a picture of that lookbook and id either always have it in a place i could access it or take those pages out and tape them in the back of my book.


As far as a logbook you should buy, im a personal fan on the Jep logbook - https://www.amazon.com/Jeppesen-Pilot-Logbook-Student-10001315/dp/B000LPZD56

As many will also say, you can always go electric. Just know that it means for every checkride you're going to have to bring a print out of your logbook and sign them.

Get a knee board. I got one of these to learn how to fly and it's been indispensable taking exams in those useless desks.

https://www.amazon.com/ASA-Visual-Flight-Kneeboard-ASA-KB-1/dp/B003455YF4/ref=pd_aw_lpo_468_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Q9NZYAHP313PR9PCNZG9