(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best darkroom supplies

|Item|Weight|Source|
|:-:|:-:|:-|
|EOTech XPS2-0|8oz|Link
|G23 Flip 3x Magnifier|16.4oz|Link|
|Magpul MBUS Rear|1.3oz|Link|
|Magpul MBUS Front|1.2oz|Link|
|Vertical Grip |5.6oz|Link|
|B.A.D. Lever|???||
|Bipod/mount|13.5oz|Link|
|Light mount|2.1oz|Link|
|Light|4.09oz|Link|
|Total|52.19oz||
||3.26 lb||

Congratulations! You bolted three and one quarter pounds of crap to your rifle!

If you throw seven or eight lasers on there, you should be able to break the 4lb mark, easy.

ALL HAIL THE CQB SNIPER!

EDIT: Because I saw below where he says the whole shebang weighs 8-9 lbs, I had to add up the rest

|Item|Weight|Source|
|:-:|:-:|:-:|
|ACS Stock|14.08oz|Link|
|Pistol Grip|4.8oz|Link|
|Trigger Guard|1.6oz|Link|
|Quad Rail|9.1oz|Link|
|Total|29.58oz||
||1.85lbs||
|Total Accessories|3.26lbs||

Grand total, minus upper, barrel, lower, bolt, carrier, misc = 5.1 lbs. Meaning the upper, lower, barrel, and all the internals weigh between 2.89 and 3.89 pounds.

I call bullshit. That's a 12 to 13 pound rifle.

Hey Dom!
thats the stuff I use:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00FSJOXO2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and antibacterial wipes
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B006H4R4D4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and something like that
https://www.amazon.de/Jabra-6305-Kaiser-Blasebalg-Mini/dp/B00472CAE6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1474118024&sr=8-6&keywords=mini+blasebalg

Thank you! In particular I mean when I'm done shooting what do I physically do with the film? Do I put it in these canisters?

I think just the bulb would be coolest, with a shape kindof like this one here, more flat than rounded on the top and a little longer if that makes sense

Doesn't Amazon ship to Canada? C-41 kit for $30 with cheap shipping. That's like $1.40/roll if you develop 25 rolls.

https://www.amazon.com/Ultrafine-Unicolor-Powder-Developer-Liter/dp/B07G1R7KTT/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=2HLTNSLVXU4DP&keywords=unicolor+c-41+powder+developer+kit&qid=1551231989&s=gateway&sprefix=unicolor&sr=8-2

Is there a specific type of vinegar? I don't want to mess this up my first time.

Also, what fixer do you use? I was thinking of using this one.

I wouldn't trust something that's not rated for chemicals over the long term. If you need something bigger, try something like containers meant for photo chemicals - http://www.amazon.com/Chem-Seal-Plastic-Photographic-Chemical-Container/dp/B00009R82G

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005TH5I2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_8gK1Bb3S3KQCC

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SYHWAJK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_QhK1BbW2N8QS2

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00017LSPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_uiK1BbFEJRM97

Buy these three items, they go a long way so it’ll be a long time before you need to buy again. The blower will get most dust, for the tougher spots I wet a corner of one of the cloths with the liquid and lightly wipe the sensor, key thing is to only touch it with the cloth and nothing else

That's bad in a few ways:

1. LEDs are often pretty bright.
   
2. Coloured LEDs often leak light of other colours.
   
3. Behind the enlarger is way too close to the paper.
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Delta-Brightlab-Junior-Safelight-Universal/dp/B00013J8UY/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?keywords=ilford+safelight&qid=1563904006&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmr0 This is probably the lowest-priced sure-to-work-well option out there. Remember to keep it 4'/1.25m from your paper (both the enlarger base and your development trays).

These should work.

Also, here are 4 links saying the current draw for a Cold Cathode tube is 5.0mA:

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1555170

http://www.vizo.com.tw/front/product/get_product_detail/32/5/1

amazon link 1

amazon link2

So doesn't this mean that to run 2 cold cathodes, i'd TECHNICALLY only need a wall wart with a 10mA rating?

It was so dark in there before. The H100i light is actually red, just the way my phone caught it.

NZXT red led kit .. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0046Y1622

Logisys red ccfl kit - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002EOD52A

Kodak Photo-Flo, a bottle will last a lifetime. https://www.amazon.com/Kodak-Photo-Flo-200-Solution-16oz/dp/B00K335F6S

i thought that too but they are cheap, if they dont work as well as i want i'm gonna get this cathode tube thing. http://www.amazon.com/Logisys-Dual-Cold-Cathode-Kit/dp/B002EOD52A/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426803051&sr=1-2&keywords=cathode

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002EOD52A/ref=pd_aw_ty_recs_10?pi=SL500_SS115
Sorry forgot the actual link

If there are a large number of old negatives, check out a negative and slide scanner for your computer. They're generally around $100, but this one is on sale right now.

I got one of these at kohl's for about 20 dollars on sale http://www.amazon.com/Innovative-Technology-Negative-Slide-Converter/product-reviews/B00264GNR2?pageNumber=3

It's got a couple knocks on the reviewers, but I don't know enough about digital archiving of slides to know if the images it saves are crummy because of the machine or because the slides are damn near 40 years old. I wouldn't have paid the hundred dollars it normally was though.

Walk into your local camera store and ask to see their photography papers. If that doesn't suite you, Amazon, Ebay, Craigslist, they'd all have papers. Most people I speak to tend to use Ilford papers. It can be cut to size very easily, but needs to be done in a darkroom (you can have some redlights on though). That means that the laser cutter would probably be a bad idea.

While I don't have the model number/name, I uses to use something similar to this, if I recall.

I've developed around 200 rolls of film and have never set foot in a dark room. You only need darkrooms if you want to make prints. To go from undeveloped to developed negatives you only need a "daylight" tank (Paterson is a popular brand) and a Dark bag.

Here is everything you need to get started with black and white stand development:

1 reel tank

Dark bag

Church key bottle opener

Scissors with long-ish blades

Adox Rodinal

Fixer

10ml syringe - you will need this to measure rodinal and fixer accurately

generic measuring cups

Optional but nice:

Film clips - you can also substitute laundry clips or use the clips on pants hangers.

Film Squeegee - you can also just use your fingers coated in a bit of water with a drop of soap in it.

Negative Holders




The process is pretty easy.

1) shoot film and rewind entirely into cartridge

2) put tank, reel, lid, cartridge, bottle opener and scissors into bag. Shut off lights - it doesn't need to be perfectly dark, just no intense light.

3) open cartridge with bottle opener, remove film, cut off leader, spool onto reel, put reel into tank, close lid, remove everything from dark bag.

4) mix up a 1:100 solution of rodinal to water making ~300ml (3ml rodinal, 300ml of water)

5) add mixture to tank (do not remove the inner lid), agitate a few times and set a timer for 1 hour

6) during that 1 hour you should mix up a 1:9 solution of fixer (30ml fixer, 270ml water)

7) after an hour, pour out developer, fill and empty the tank with water a few times. Then fill and agitate 5 times, empty, fill and agitate 10 times, empty, fill and agitate 20 times, empty

8) add fixer solution. Agitate for 30 seconds. Then for 6 minutes agitate for 5 seconds every 30 seconds. While you do this, run your shower on its hottest setting until done (this will eliminate most airborn dust in your bathroom)

9) pour the fixer in a air tight container and store it in a dark place (you can use the same mix of fixer about 3 times, adding 2 minutes each time) and repeat the rinsing procedure from step 7

10) open the tank, hang the film somewhere in your bathroom (I usually hang mind from the shower curtain rod using coat hangers), squeegee the film off in 2-3 passes and leave it to dry

11) after 1 hour you should cut the film into strips of 6 exposures each and store in your negative holders

And there you have it, you have developed black and white film! The process is very easy and gets easier every time you do it. Stand development is also VERY economically efficient as you barely use any rodinal per roll and you can reuse the fixer. It massively raises your films apparent sharpness and contrast and can correct for missed exposures to a ridiculous degree. Also, if you want to develop multiple film speeds in one tank, it can do that!

I am happy to answer any questions ANYONE has about home film developing.