Reddit mentions: The best household pain additives
We found 13 Reddit comments discussing the best household pain additives. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 6 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. FLOOD/PPG FLD6-04 Floetrol Additive (1 Quart)
- Fortifies acrylic and latex paints to improve performance and reduce brush marks
- Allows latex paint to spray like oil-based paint
- Add to latex paints to improve Brush ability and eliminate Brush and lap marks
- Covers up to 300 sq. ft.
- Reduces tip clogging and piston freeze-up during cup gun spraying
- Washable formula cleans with soap and water
Features:
Specs:
Color | Original Version |
Height | 7.6 Inches |
Length | 10.6 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 Quart |
Weight | 2.23 Pounds |
Width | 10.7 Inches |
2. Simiron Metallic Additive- Durable- Unique Design- for Epoxy Floors- Bronze- 32 oz
- QUALITY AND DURABLE FINISH: Not only will this additive create a unique look, but our Epoxy Resin is chemical, impact, AND abrasion resistant while having an excellent adhesion that leaves a smooth and cleanable floor for a heavy-duty protection
- UNIQUE: When our additive is dispersed within the coating, the pigment creates a beautiful 3-dimensional appearance giving the illusion of waves, swirls, and ripples.
- NO HASSLE: Mix our metallic additive into your CLEAR epoxy ONLY and apply to your desired floor surface for a vibrant 3-dimensional look making this simple to use for semi-professionals and novices alike!
- ANYWHERE: Perfect for Restaurants, Bars, Automotive Surface Areas, Sports Arenas, Hair Studios, Showroom Floors, Aircraft Hangars, Residential Homes, Schools, Universities, Garages, and so much more!
- Our additive can be added to ROKREZ PRO & 1100SL 100% solids, clear epoxy with the finished appearance of the metallic varying from subtle changes in color to more distinctive effects.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Bronze |
Size | 32 oz |
3. FLOOD/PPG FLD4-04 Penetrol Additive
Helps paint flow better, eliminating brush and roller marks.Increases paint adhesion to prevent peeling and blistering.Helps improve oil-based paint and primer penetration.Please Note: FLD4-04 is the Model Number.
Specs:
Color | Clear additive |
Height | 8.1 Inches |
Length | 7.6 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 2.18 Pounds |
Width | 9.5 Inches |
4. ThermaCels - Insulating Paint Additive 1 Gallon Package
Ceramics are Non-Toxic & Fire ResistantReduces heat and cooling loss!Can be mixed into any kind of paint or coatingHelps deaden soundLowers heating and cooling bills
Specs:
Color | White Powder |
Size | 1 gallon package |
Weight | 1 pounds |
5. Krud Kutter MC21048 Di-All Mc-2 Paint Mildewcide Interior/Exterior
Blends easily into latex and oil based formulationsWon't affect color, finish, or durabilityUse in interior or exterior paint films
6. Mildewcide Mildew Preventing Additive
Proven, long-term mold and mildew protectionBlends easily into all interior or exterior, latex or oil-based paints, stains and wallpaper adhesivesEPA registered fungicide to prevent mold & mildew on coating filmWill not affect color or performance of paints, stains or wallpaper adhesives
Specs:
Height | 4.25 Inches |
Length | 0.1 Inches |
Weight | 0.02 Pounds |
Width | 4.25 Inches |
🎓 Reddit experts on household pain additives
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where household pain additives are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Ah interesting, you cleverly took the picture so the join wouldn't show :) Yeah getting the ends to just meet there would be super tricky.
What I was thinking was parting the piece apart, and using a chunk of pipe cut to fit as the brass ring, then gluing it back together with a (possibly metal) dowel in the middle. The exact order of operations to keep it all aligned and get a good fit left as an exercise in the specifics :)
Soldering in that situation is tricky without burning the wood or not getting the brass hot enough for the solder to flow. I think it might be possible with one of the old style tinsmith irons because they would allow you to apply very directed heat. The solder always shows on me anyway (you can get brass wire solder that's a closer match but it ain't cheap - example https://www.riogrande.com/product/brass-wire-solder-20-ga/132201). I've done a couple pieces where I needed a free floating wire around it (to hold stuff on .. its .. complicated lol) and soldered the ends, about 50/50 success on the first try on say 8-10 guage wire, thicker is harder and still a bit of scorching.
I know a bunch of folks who use things like key filings (mostly brass/bronze colored and usually free if you ask nicely) with either CA or epoxy. I've had a bit better luck with thin epoxy but mostly you can still tell pretty easy that its not solid brass. What I've done (not a recommendation - there's folks much much better than me at it..) is pretty much just as you said, pack the metal in there, saturate with glue, let it set up, then turn it back down to size. CA has the advantage of soaking in pretty good and setting up quick, epoxy imho holds better and more importantly gap fills better. You can also get tints for it to it doesn't show as much (stuff like https://www.amazon.com/Simiron-Metallic-Epoxy-Additive-Bronze/dp/B01MYOIM5F - also not a recommendation I'm just to lazy to search more).
Primary Items:
• 7-pack of 11x14" Canvases: $17.98
• 1 qt Floetrol: $6.97
• Silicone oil: $14.99
• Liquitex High Gloss Varnish: $13.32
• Acrylic Paints: ~$1 each (I bought 4)
• Popsicle sticks: ~5.00
• TOTAL COST: $62.26
​
It's a tad pricy up front (I got most of this for my birthday), but several of these things will last me many pours. The canvases (obviously), the floetrol, the silicone oil, and the popsicle sticks will last for quite some time. It's possible the varnish will as well - I'm not sure yet, I haven't varnished my first canvas yet. Really the paint seems to be the thing that will run out the fastest unless you buy large sizes. I did cheap paint for my first pour, just to get kind of an idea, but I really liked how it turned out so I'm not inclined to buy anything more expensive for now. There are some other things that I had on hand an don’t have prices. Items like gloves, plastic cups, a butane torch, and the garbage bag I put under it.
I wonder when it will become useful in The Netherlands to paint your outside walls with an additive like: https://www.amazon.com/ThermaCels-Insulating-Additive-Gallon-Package/dp/B01AC5KRJ6/ (for approx 35 m^2 / 4.5L paint)
It insulates against thermal radiation, but not so much conductivity (hence the bad reviews). I already think it would be useful with container rooms, and other places with flat roofs. With the best polyurethane or siloxane paints it should be good for a few decades.
The only way I could see to improve it:
On the top, you should paint the runes from the Dimrill Gate: "The way is shut..."
Tips for painting smooth surfaces:
>This one doesn't appear to be rated for that. Latex paint requires a much stronger sprayer, as the particles are bigger.
That's incorrect, it is rated for latex paint. I have this one, Earlex HLVP paint sprayer, which is basically the same thing and it works fine. I've mostly used it to paint trim which you want to have as smooth as a finish you can get it. You just have to make sure you have the proper paint volume set and you're thinning properly. For thinning I use a latex paint extender called Flood
Do not paint your black headlight shrouds. Buy a can of Flood Penetrol and apply it to the plastic. It will restore it instead of coating it.
It's wonderful stuff, you'll put that shit on everything.
A paint conditioner will help with brush marks. That one is for latex. Also a lot of painters will use oil based on trim for less brush marks. Here is a conditioner for oil based paint. I have never used the oil based one. No idea how well it works.
Here's the stuff form amazon https://www.amazon.com/ThermaCels-Insulating-Additive-Gallon-Package/dp/B01AC5KRJ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526927153&sr=8-1&keywords=ceramic%2Badditive%2Bfor%2Bpaint&th=1
And remember, oil and silicone like to turn into thick sludge. If silicone works for ya, stay with it. Heck, you may try oil after cleaning everything and decide you hate it, and that I am an awful person for suggesting it... but if you DO use it... a little goes a long way.
Anyway, thanks for the discussion and the content.
If you ever repaint add this next time it can't hurt:
http://www.amazon.com/Krud-Kutter-Mildewcide-Interior-Exterior/dp/B002KI3SZE
So I've been looking at stuff for coving pretty/abused/weathered paint and oil based flood seems to be a potential cover.
FLOOD/PPG FLD4-04 Penetrol Additive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QUCPVZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ef5yDb6NP6CAV
I'm not sure it is a good idea but I'm going to use it on an older truck I have had for a long time. The truck can't get worse so it will be a good trial.
Edit: I know Australia has some odd rules so maybe it's not there but it's an odd option.
Would this be the same stuff?
There are mold inhibiting primers or additives for paint/primer (my choice) that you can add. https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-60511-Mildewcide-Preventing-Additive/dp/B000KKOLVY